Murfreesboro Lawn Care News and Tips

Soil Testing

2015-10-10T16:45:00.001-07:00

Every now an then soil needs a bit of a boost. How can you tell when your soil needs some help?

Soil is more complicated than it looks. Lawn and garden plants need at least 17 essential elements for healthy growth: carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, boron, molybdenum, chlorine, and nickel.

Plants get a few of these — carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen — from air and water. But the rest they get from the soil. If the soil doesn’t have enough of these nutrients, you need to add them.

How do you know? That’s right — soil testing. Here’s a look at what a thorough soil analysis does and why it’s important.

Why Should You Consider Soil Testing?

Soil testing is the only way to accurately determine what is going on with your soil makeup.

Your soil might need nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium. Its pH might be off, so you might need to add limestone or sulfur.

A soil test will tell you what you need to know. And just because your neighbor has a certain type of soil, it doesn’t mean you do, too. Soil quality can vary greatly from house to house and even within the same yard.

When Should You Test?

The best time to test soil is in the spring, before you add any compost or other amendments. But you can test soil any time, as long as the ground isn’t frozen.

It’s a good idea to test your soil every few years. And it’s especially important if you’re planting in soil for the first time or if your grass isn’t growing as well as it should.

What Do Soil Tests Measure?

One of the most important things a soil test will tell you is your lawn’s pH level.

Your lawn pH is the measure of soil acidity or soil alkalinity. In basic terms, it’s how sweet or sour your lawn is.

A number shows pH on a scale from 0 to 14. A neutral reading is 7. Any reading below 7 represents an acid soil, and the lower the number, the more acidic the soil. Any number above 7 indicates an alkaline condition. The higher the number, the more alkaline your soil.

The best soil pH for lawns is a range between 5 and 7.

Soil Chemistry — Why Should You Care About pH?

The pH of the soil determines what nutrients are available to the lawn. If the soil pH is above or below the recommended range, nutrients may not be absorbed, or too many nutrients may be absorbed.

Fertilize all you want, but if the pH is wrong, some of the nutrients in the fertilizer never make it to your grass. That’s just a waste.

The good news is you can alter your New York or Connecticut landscape’s soil to create a more balanced pH.

If your soil has too much acid, you can add lime — a soil amendment made by grinding limestone — which reacts with water and releases calcium that neutralizes the acid and raises the pH of the soil.

If your soil is too alkaline, you can lower the pH by adding aluminum sulfate, iron sulfate, and powdered sulfur.

Other Valuable Soil Tests

In addition to measuring your soil’s pH, laboratory tests often check for plant nutrients in three categories:

Major nutrients — nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium
Secondary nutrients — sulfur, calcium, magnesium
Minor nutrients — iron, manganese, copper, zinc, boron, molybdenum, chlorine

Nitrogen gives your lawn that nice green color you crave. The other nutrients affect the health of the roots. Lab tests usually come back in about two weeks, then you can make a treatment plan for your lawn based on what it’s lacking.

But don’t be in a hurry. If your lawn is lackluster because it’s missing essential nutrients, it won’t transform overnight. Plan on a couple years of a good fertilization plan before you get that lush green carpet.

Spring in Tennessee!!

2015-03-15T14:57:00.001-07:00

Middle Tennessee Lawn Care Tips

Most lawns in Middle Tennessee are predominantly blends of tall fescue, a cool season turfgrass that, with proper care, will remain green and lush year-round. Most landscape managers and home gardeners work to free fescue lawns from everything else: pests, weeds and other types of grass. Assuming the turf is established, and a certain amount of chemical practices are acceptable, great lawn care is not out of reach. To keep a healthy, green fescue lawn in Middle Tennessee, understand four basic aspects of turf management.

Mowing

Beginning in late March, get the grass blades used to growing at the height you want them to be. Start by making sure the mower blades are sharp. The University of Tennessee Extension Service recommends setting blade height to about 2 to 3 inches from the ground. Mow in a back and forth pattern, to show off the ability of fescue grasses to reflect sunlight. Do this once per week through spring. As daytime temperatures rise through the summer, reduce mowing frequency if needed, and raise the mower deck to 4 or 5 inches to conserve moisture and nutrients.

Water Management

Most Middle Tennessee lawns get enough water from rain throughout the spring. Excessive irrigation will only invite disease problems. When summer heat begins to take its toll, begin a periodic watering routine in the morning hours. According to the University of Tennessee Extension Service, "A key to effective watering is to irrigate deeply, to a 4- to 6-inch soil depth, and infrequently. Actively growing fescues usually require from 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water each week." If you have an automatic irrigation system, set each spray zone to water three times per week, 10 minutes at a time. Set rotor heads to run 20 minutes a piece.

Fertilization and Weed Control

Good mowing and water management practices will help to keep fungal diseases away from Middle Tennessee fescue lawns. Keep an eye out for discolorations in your turf, however, as these may be signs of disease problems. To prevent and control weeds, incorporate herbicides into your fertilization program. Fertilize once in early spring and again late in the season with a high nitrogen, general lawn fertilizer containing both a pre-emergent and post-emergent weed control. This will rid the lawn of existing broadleaf weeds and prevent future crabgrass growth. Apply a low-nitrogen fertilizer in summer, combined with a post-emergent weed control. Do not use a crabgrass preventing herbicide, for it will hamper seeding efforts later on. Put down a winterizing fertilizer high in phosphorus in mid-November to promote root growth during the dormant months. Follow product label instructions properly with each application.

Aerating and Overseeding

The hot summers of Middle Tennessee tend to thin out fescue lawns, while foot traffic and tree roots compact the soil and restrict air and water flow. Repair this by aerating and over-seeding the lawn in mid-October. Unwanted Bermudagrass and other grass-weeds will soon turn brown and go dormant. Take the opportunity in mid-fall to kill these off. Spray patches with a non-selective liquid herbicide, such as Roundup. Use a walk-behind or tractor-pulled aerator to pull cores from the soil, back and forth, as in a mowing pattern. Seed the lawn at a light rate, being careful to keep grass seed out of landscape beds. Follow with an application of a starter lawn fertilizer, generally containing only nitrogen. Keep the lawn watered until new grass blades begin to emerge.

Basic step by step

2015-01-18T19:03:00.001-08:00

Lawn Care Guide: Fertilizing Your Lawn

The 3 major nutrients your lawn needs to thrive are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium(K).

Nitrogen (N): Promotes vigorous blade, leaf and stem growth encouraging a dark green color. It improves overall plant health, quality and density and aids in tolerance to heat, cold and drought stress. However, too much nitrogen can cause quick blade growth at the expense of strong root development. The best type of nitrogen for your lawn is slow-release, because it offers a consistent supply of nitrogen, has less chance of burning the grass and reduces nutrient loss due to leaching from the soil. Slow-release nitrogen also reduces pollution caused by fertilizer run off from over watering or heavy rain.

Phosphorus (P): This nutrient promotes early plant development, hastens plant maturity and stimulates bloom and root development.

Potassium(K): Acting like a vitamin, potassium helps strengthen the grass plant. It also works to make your lawn more disease resistant and hardy.

Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) are always listed in this order on fertilizer bags. The numbers correspond to the amount of each in the formula.

Premium vs. Professional Comparison Chart

	Premium	Professional
Polymer Sulfur Coated Urea PSCU slow-release nitrogen:
> Controlled release up to 8 weeks
> Contains sulfur for additional turf greening
Grassy and broadleaf weed control available with or without fertilizer
Select products contain Dimension^®:
> Post and pre-emergent control of grassy and broadleaf weeds
Combination summer lawn food with insect control available
Lawn Starter Fertilizer is formulated to Professional Line standards
All Southern States Brand Lawn Fertilizers
Formulated and manufactured above industry standards
Uniform flow through applicators
Uniform coverage during application
Contain iron for additional turf greening
Contain sulfur for additional turf greening
Will not burn turf when applied as directed
Professional Line
Methylene Urea slow-release nitrogen:
> Controlled release up to 12 weeks
> Uniform feeding during broad range of environmental conditions
Select products contain Avail^®:
> Enhanced phosphorous nutrient release
Select products contain Wolf Trax^®:
> Micronutrients are distributed evenly and consistently
Select products contain Barricade^®:
> Pre-emergent control of grassy and broadleaf weeds
> Longer lasting control
More environmentally friendly:
> Less run-off and less leaching
Contains higher sulfur content for additional turf greening
Select products contain magnesium for additional turf greening
Select products contain potassium to promote summer and winter hardiness
Low chlorine (salt) content to minimize turf burn potential
Fewer fertilizer applications necessary to maintain healthy turf
Select products are also recommended for flowers and ornamentals
Dimension^® is a registered trademark of Dow AgroSciences, LLC. Wolf Trax^® is a registered trademark of Wolf Trax, Incorporated. Barricade® is a registered trademark of Syngenta Group Company.

Southern States^® Premium Fertilizers

Lawn Starter Fertilizer 10-20-15 with AVAIL^®
Apply in February-Early April or whenever you seed or reseed

Promotes increased root development of new seedlings
Lower chlorine content for less burn potential
Ideal for landscape and ornamental plants
Contains magnesium to maintain green color
AVAIL^® phosphate enhancer makes the applied phosphorous more available to the turfgrass, thus making the fertilizer more environmentally favorable
40 lb. covers 5,300 sq. ft. (600-20456)

Early Spring Lawn Food With Crabgrass Control 32-0-4
Apply in February-Late March

Formulated with Dimension^® for post-emergent crabgrass control
Contains iron for deeper green color
One application controls crabgrass for up to 4 months
Stops crabgrass before it starts
Contains slow release nitrogen (poly coated/sulfur coated urea-PCSCU)
Not for use on or around ornamentals and flowers
15 lb. covers 5,000 sq. ft. (102-011784)
45 lb. covers 15,000 sq. ft. (102-11785)

Crabgrass Control with Dimension^®
Apply in February-Late March for season-long control

Formulated with Dimension^®
Stops crabgrass before it starts
Provides post-emergence control up to the 3rd tiller development stage
Dimension^® can be applied up to 4 weeks later than other crabgrass preventers
Provides up to 4 months of control
15 lb. covers 5,500 sq. ft. (102-05859)
45 lb. covers 16,600 sq. ft. (102-05858)

Dimension^® is a registered trademark of Dow Agrosciences, LLC.

Late Spring Lawn Food With Broadleaf Weed Control 32-0-4
Apply in Late March-Late April

Controls 250 Broadleaf weeds
Contains slow release nitrogen (poly coated/sulfur coated urea–PCSCU)
Formulated with iron for deeper green color
Weeds controlled include: dandelions, chickweed, knotweed, plantains, henbit, spurge and others
Safe for use on Bahia, common Bermuda, Bluegrass, Centipede, Fescue, Rye, St. Augustine and Zoyia grasses
5,000 sq. ft. coverage (102-11786)
15,000 sq. ft. coverage (102-11787)

Note: Late Spring Lawn Food with Broadleaf Weed Control can also be used as a fall application to control weeds the following spring.

Broadleaf Weed Control with Trimec^®
Apply in March-May and September-October

Controls 190 broadleaf weedsincluding dandelion, chickweed, knotweed, plantains, henbit, spurge and many others
Safe for use on established turf of Kentucky Bluegrass, bent grass, Bahia grass, Centipede grass, fescues, Bermuda grass, Zoysia grass and perennial ryegrass
10 lb. covers 5,000 sq. ft. (102-05328)
30 lb. covers 15,000 sq. ft. (102-05857)

Dimension^® is a registered trademark of Dow Agrosciences, LLC.

Summer Lawn Food With Insect Control 9-15-20

Contains slow release nitrogen for long lasting green
Controls fleas, ticks, ants, and other insects
A unique combination of insecticide & fertilizer to
control insects while replenishing essential nutrients in the turf
15 lb. covers 5,000 sq. ft. (102-05324)

Lawn Food 32-0-4
Apply Early April-Late April

Contains slow release nitrogen (PCSCU) for long lasting greening
Formulated with iron for deeper green color
Will not burn when applied as directed
Apply anytime during the growing season (when grass is actively growing or every 6 weeks)
Creates a greener, thicker lawn
16 lb. covers 5,000 sq. ft. (102-11790)
48 lb. covers 15,000 sq. ft. (102-11791)

Fall Lawn Food 25-0-13
Apply Early September and Mid-November (after grass stops growing)

Contains slow release nitrogen for long lasting greening
Contains iron for deeper green color
Will not burn when applied as directed
Creates a greener, thicker lawn in the spring
16 lb. covers 5,000 sq. ft. (102-11788)
48 lb. covers 15,000 sq. ft. (102-11789)

Southern States CarpetMaker^® Professional Quality Turf Fertilizers

Southern States CarpetMaker^® Professional Quality Turf Fertilizers are high-quality fertilizers with aminimum amount of filler, delivering more nutrients invarious forms to both turf and ornamentals

CarpetMaker^®’s consistent, timed release of nitrogen throughout the season means less maintenance, mowing and watering, and fewer applications offertilizer. In addition, because of its unique slow-release formulation.

CarpetMaker^® is more environmentally friendly, with less leaching into the soil or run-off intothe environment, especially where the potential is high,like slopes, compacted soil or sparsely covered lawns.

What the Professionals Use

CarpetMaker^® Professional Quality Fertilizers use methylene urea as their source of slow-release nitrogen. Used by professional golf course superintendents and turf landscapers, methylene urea assures efficient and sustained release of nitrogen under a broad range of environmental conditions, consistently feeding the plant over time. It even provides uniform feeding in heavy rains or when used in equipment that can cause particle fracturing. Less expensive fertilizers use a water soluble form of nitrogen that is released immediately to the grass, causing it to be consumed rapidly and/or lostin run-off.

CarpetMaker^®’s unique triple-action release uses both hydrolysis and microbial activity, providing quick, immediate and long-lasting results. And, because CarpetMaker products are formulated with low chlorine content, there is less build-up of salts in the lawn and less burn potential when conditions are dry.

Application

To apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, divide the first number on the fertilizer bag into 100. For example, CarpetMaker^® 16-4-8 fertilizer should beapplied at a rate of 6.25 pounds per 1,000 square feet (100/16 = 6.25 pounds).

Or, divide 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet by the nitrogen percentage (1/0.16 = 6.25 pounds).

Carpetmaker^® is a registered trademark of Southern States Cooperative, Incorporated.

CarpetMaker^® Turf Fertilizer 16-4-8
Apply in February-Late April and Fall

High-quality, all purpose fertilizer with added iron and magnesium for greener and healthier lawns
Blended with AVAIL^® phosphate fertilizer enhancer making more phosphorus available to the turf and Wolf Trax^® micronutrient iron for consistent nutrition
25% slow-release nitrogen from methylene urea
Recommended when a pre-emergence herbicide is applied separately.
40 lb. covers 7,000 sq. ft. (102-37291)

AVAIL®

A polymer coating for phosphorus fertilizer helpsincrease phosphorus use efficiency. AVAIL^® absorbs aluminum, iron and other cations in the soil to help keep the phosphorus more available. It works with all phosphate fertilizers.

Wolf Trax DDP^® Micro-Nutrient Dry Fertilizer Coating

Physically and chemically formulated to coat dry fertilizers. It will not come off. Spreads evenly throughout the fertilizer blend. This ensures micronutrient is spread throughout your turf and plant uptake is more consistent. Granular micronutrients are often unevenly spread throughout a blend, leading to inconsisten tapplication across your lawn. Each fertilizer prill is thoroughly coated with this micro-nutrient. Every time the plant root intercepts a prill of nitrogen, potassium or phosphorus, it is also finding the micro-nutrient. Root to nutrient contact is virtually assured.

Wolf Trax^® and DDP^® are registered trademarks of Wolf Trax, Incorporated.

CarpetMaker^® Professional Quality Turf Fertilizer 16-4-8 with 0.43% Barricade^®
Apply in February–Late March for season long control

Barricade stops crabgrass and broadleaf weeds before they start with season long protection
Barricade is safe for flowers and ornamentals
25% slow-release nitrogen from methylene urea
Blended with AVAIL^®phosphate fertilizer enhancer making more phosphorus available to the turf and Wolf Trax^®micronutrient iron for consistent nutrition
40 lb. covers 7,400 sq. ft. (641-03456)

CarpetMaker^® Turf Fertilizer 6-0-18 with 0.43% Barricade^®
Apply in February–Late March for season long control

Environmentally friendly with phosphorus free formula
Barricade^® stops crabgrass and broadleaf weeds before they start with season long protection
Barricade^® is safe for flowers and ornamentals
100% slow-release nitrogen from methylene urea
Blended with Wolf Trax micronutrient for consistent nutrition
Non-leaching formula provides uniform feeding even after heavy rain
40 lb. covers 7,400 sq. ft. (600-20556)

Barricade^® is a registered trademark of The Andersons, Incorporated. Treflan^® is aregistered trademark of Dow AgroSciences, LLC. Ronstar^® is a registered trademark of Bayer. Surflan^® is a registered trademark of United Phosphoroous, Incorporated.

CarpetMaker^® 10-0-20 All Season
Apply All Season

Environmentally friendly with phosphorus free formula
Blended with Wolf Trax®micronutrient for consistent nutrition
75% slow-release nitrogen from methylene urea
Formulated with magnesium and potassium for summer and winter hardiness
Strengthens turf without excessive shoot growth
Non-leaching formula provides unifrom feeding even after heavy rain
40 lb. covers 8,000 sq. ft. (600-20856)

Table of Contents

Some states may regulate the use of phosphorus in fertilizers. Please check with your local Southern States dealer for additional information on which fertilizer is right for your task and local region.

Winter Mower Storage

2015-01-02T15:03:00.001-08:00

Your lawn mower has been a faithful fair weather companion. So at the end of the mowing season, give it the attention it deserves. Spend just a little time prepping your mower for storage over the winter, and you’ll enjoy a happier reunion in spring. Here are some tips on what you can do now to be sure your mower will start easily next spring. Make sure your operator's manual is on hand for quick reference when you work on your mower.

Remove the Battery
It's a good idea to remove your lawn mower battery for the winter and store it in a cool, dry place. Be sure to store it away from gas cans, the water heater or furnace. Disconnect the battery cable from the battery, starting with the negative cable (it will have a minus sign). Remove the battery and wipe it off with a cloth. Clean the battery terminal using a metal brush, or clean it with a battery cleaner product like the Briggs & Stratton Battery Terminal Cleaner. For added protection, coat all terminals with a product like the Briggs & Stratton Terminal Protector.

Clean your Mower
Brush or hose off leaves, grass and mud from your mower. Always remove the spark plug lead wire from the plug before doing this or any other mower maintenance, and tape or tie it out of the way. Gently tip your walk behind mower on its side to spray the underbody. If debris is caught on the blade, use a stick or tool to remove it - never use your hands.

Use Fuel Stabilizer Correctly
You shouldn't store your lawn equipment with a partially full fuel tank. Either run the equipment out of fuel, or use fuel stabilizer in a full tank of fuel. Add the stabilizer (also called fuel preserver) according to package directions. Then - and this is important - run the mower for a few minutes so that the stabilizer circulates through the carburetor. The stabilizer keeps fuel fresh for up to 6 months. Turn off the engine and completely fill the gas tank. A full tank will help prevent moisture from condensing in the tank which can form rust that could break away and clog the carburetor.

Store your Mower in a Dry Place
Store your mower in a dry, protected place such as your garage or a garden shed. Never store it next to a furnace, water heater or appliance with a pilot light.

Winter Lawn Care

2014-12-31T07:20:00.001-08:00

Seasonal Lawn Care Tips for Summer, Spring Winter & Fall

The growing season is over. Here are some tips for your lawn for December and January.

Be sure to remove leaves, sticks and other debris from the lawn. Leaves will block sunlight from reaching the grass blades, and they will be harder to remove in the spring when they are wet.
Remember to prepare your mower for winter storage: remove the spark plug, drain the oil and gas. Clean off all the grass clippings and get the blade sharpened now to avoid the spring rush.

Irrigation Shut Down

2014-12-31T07:16:00.001-08:00

How To Winterize Your Irrigation System The DIY Way

Winterization is an important part of maintaining a properly running lawn sprinkler system. Where you live plays a big part in which steps you will need to follow. If you live in a region that is temperate - i.e., it either never freezes or only freezes for an hour or two at a time when it does - there are far fewer steps involved when it is time to winterize your irrigation system.

In this how-to guide to winterization, we will take a look at the steps involved in winterizing your sprinkler system in a cold climate. As a part of that, we will examine two different methods for removing the water from pipes and sprinklers: using drain valves and the blow out method. Finally, we will outline what needs to be done for those of us in more temperate climates. When you have finished reading this article, you will have the knowledge necessary to successfully winterize your lawn sprinkler system - and you'll understand why most experts agree that a sprinkler system blow out is the most recommended method to use.

Step 1 - Turn Off The Water

First things first: when the time to winterize your irrigation system rolls around, you'll need to shut off the water at the main valve before doing anything else. By necessity, the shut off valve for your sprinkler system needs to be located in a place where it can't freeze up; this should have been done when the system was originally installed.

Step 2 - Shut Down The Controller

Here's where things get a little less cut-and-dry. Automatic irrigation systems have a controller - or timer - that regulates when they turn on and off. Depending on what kind of controller you have, you may either choose to set it to "rain mode" or disconnect the power from it altogether.

Please note that you can always buy a more up-to-date, efficient controller or timer to save yourself a lot of time and money in the long run. www.SprinklerWarehouse.com offers the best selection and most competitive prices for lawn sprinkler system controllers on the market today.

Solid State Controllers:

A solid state controller usually have digital time displays and generally use up a lot less electricity and power than their mechanical counterparts. Disconnecting the power from your sprinkler system controller means having to reset all of its associated settings when spring returns - not necessarily the simplest task in the world.

Solid state controllers tend to use very little electricity, though, so leaving them on - but in "rain mode" - will not cause a major spike in your electric bill. Therefore, if you have a solid state digital controller, use the "rain mode" setting and save yourself a lot of frustration down the line.

"Rain mode" means that your controller stays on, maintaining its settings, programming and keeping the time - but the valves simply don't come on. They can save you a great deal of time when it comes to winterization.

Step 3 - Remove The Backflow Preventer And Take Care Of Risers

Next, you will need to remove the backflow preventer from your lawn sprinkler system. Once it's removed, drain all the water from it and store it someplace safe. Although you can always reinstall it once it's drained, that's usually a task best kept for the springtime.

While there's a chance that you'll be able to siphon water out of your irrigation system's risers, chances are that you'll have to pump it out. If so, a wet/dry shop vacuum is your best option; use duct tape to make the hose narrow enough to work properly.

Valves that are installed above ground should be drained of water and stored somewhere safe. Some people choose to use pipe heating cables on their backflow preventers and above ground valves. Keep in mind, though, that even when used properly such arrangements can fall victim to power outages and serious damages to your irrigation system can occur.

Removing A Backflow Preventer

As noted previously, removing your irrigation system's backflow preventer and storing it for the season is a smart move when you're completing the other steps involved in winterization. How do you remove a backflow preventer, though? With any luck, the one that you have is held in place with union connections. In this case, you'll just need to uncouple them on either end of the backflow preventer, just before the bends in the piping. Once it's removed, storing it will be simple. You can use insulation on the exposed ends of the pipe to keep them safe from harm - and to keep critters and debris from inadvertently getting in.

If you don't have union connections in place, though, you're in for a little bit more work. The people who have the biggest trouble removing their backflow preventers are the ones whose system doesn't use union connections. In this case, you'll have to cut the backflow preventer out manually. It's definitely more work, but the good news is that once that's done, it's done. When spring rolls back around, you can reinstall the backflow preventer for your irrigation system using union connections; the next time you need to winterize your lawn sprinkler system, it will be considerably easier.

Step 4 - Removing Water From The Pipes And Sprinklers

Now comes the most important step of the winterization process: removing all of the water from the system's pipes and sprinklers so that it doesn't freeze, expand and burst everything. There are a few different ways of approaching the problem: using a shop vacuum to suck all of the water out (a very time-consuming and aggravating process), draining the water out via the system's drain valves or using air to blow all of the water out (also known as a sprinkler system blow out). Since using a shop vac is so inefficient, we will only take closer looks at how to use the drain valve method or the blow out sprinkler system method.

The Drain Valve Method

In order to explain the process more clearly, we will highlight the pertinent facts and steps involved in using the drain valve method to drain the water from your lawn sprinkler system in small, easy to grasp sections below.

Location - It's critical to have properly placed drain valves. Basically, you will need a drain valve at every low point in your piping system. Additionally, a drain valve is needed at every high point that doesn't have a sprinkler so that air can escape; otherwise, the water won't drain.
Organization - If you're using manual drain valves, do yourself a favor and clearly mark down where each valve can be found on an easy-to-read chart. Keep the valves in a box and store it somewhere where it will be easy to find when it's needed.
Strategy - When your lawn sprinkler system was installed, optimally the remote controllers were placed just above the lowest point in a circuit. That way, you can install the drain valves at the same place as the controllers, making it much easier to winterize properly. About 1/4" of slope is needed per foot to drain the pipes effectively; in the best case scenario, you'll only need one drain valve per lateral.
Automatic Drain Valves - You can streamline your winterization process by using automatic drain valves. Assuming they are on the ends and the low points of your sprinkler system, automatic drain valves work to drain excess water when the pressure gets below 10 psi. Activate a station to release the pressure and to get the automatic drain valves going. You'll find that they save you a great deal of time and frustration when the time to winterize your irrigation system rolls around.
Water In The Valves - Since water won't drain all the way out of the valves, it will be necessary to remove them. Although it's possible to take them apart and dry them manually, it is not a practice recommended for the average, everyday DIYer. Choose valves with unions to make removal easier. After removing the valves, cap the ends to keep garbage and pests out.
Water In The Sprinkler Heads - Sprinkler heads with built-in check valves don't drain completely; neither do side inlet sprinklers. If you're unsure what kind you have, remove a sprinkler's cap to see if there's water down in the sprinkler body. If so, you'll need to remove it and shake it out thoroughly. Otherwise, you could try using a wet/dry shop vacuum to suck the moisture out.

The Blow Out Method

Although we will be outlining how a sprinkler system blow out works, it is best to have a professional perform this kind of work for you. In fact, hiring a professional to conduct winterization work is the best way to go, if possible.

Get The Right Equipment - To conduct a sprinkler system blow out, you will need a very large air compressor. At minimum, you should use a 50 cubic feet per minute compressor to get the job done right. Anything smaller will make the job inefficient - and may even make it impossible. Make sure the compressor has a pressure regulator valve with an accurate gauge. If possible, try renting different sizes and kinds of air compressors until finding one that works the best - then purchase it so you don't have to rent it again every time you winterize.
Remove The Backflow Preventer - Most likely (and preferably) your backflow preventer will be located just after the irrigation shut off valve for your lawn sprinkler system. If you have an anti-siphon valve, remove the whole valve.
Connect The Air Compressor - On the downstream side of the system, connect the air compressor to the backflow preventer riser.
Turn On The Valves - Always turn on your valves one by one, using the automatic controller, when you blow out sprinkler system. Begin with the last valve - or the one at the highest elevation. Open manual valves by hand. If you've removed the anti-siphon valves, you will need to connect the compressor hose to the downstream part of the valve risers.
Turn On The Air Compressor - With this step, taking your time is key! Gradually increase the pressure without letting it exceed 50 psi. If the air coming out of the air compressor becomes dangerously hot, you may need to install a length of hose between it and sprinkler system connection, so be prepared.
Blow The Water Out - Keeping a close eye on the air pressure and temperature, allow the water to blow out. The first valve will generally take the longest; after that, things should proceed rather quickly. Don't allow air to blow out any longer than necessary - i.e., as soon as the water has been effectively blown out, turn off the air compressor.
Move On To The Next Valve - Turn off the valve that you just worked on, and proceed to the next one following the same steps. Repeat the same sprinkler system blow out as outlined above on each of valve circuits; with anti-siphon valves, remember to move the air compressor on to the next valve riser.
Repeat The Entire Process - For optimal results, perform the exact same blow out sprinkler system process again. Warning: do not turn off all the valves when the compressor is running - it could blow up your lawn sprinkler system.
Blow Out Main Line Section - If your irrigation system has a mainline section that is upstream from the backflow preventer, hook up your air compressor to the blow out fitting near the sprinkler system shut off valve; blow out the water through the backflow preventer riser.
Tie Up Loose Ends - When the sprinkler system blow out is complete, set the automatic controller to "rain mode" or disconnect power from it. Place threaded caps over the anti-siphon valve fittings, backflow preventer risers - over anything that might allow pests or garbage to get in.

Connecting The Air Compressor To The Backflow Preventer Riser

If you've never connected an air compressor to the backflow preventer riser on your irrigation system before, it's important to learn. Otherwise, winterization via blowing out the system will be impossible. Most of the time, you just need to look for a hose tap, quick coupler or hose bib that is after your irrigation shutoff valve and backflow preventer. You can connect your air compressor hose to this for the easiest, most straightforward time. If there is no tap or other convenient option present, install a tee fitting just past the main line. Then put a threaded metal nipple and cap on the extra leg; you can use this as a connection to the air hose. You'll want to use a metal nipple and cap because the pipe can get very hot at the point of the connection due to the speed at which the air is being blown.

Connecting the compressor air hose to the nipple and cap end of the tee fitting isn't always a cut and dry procedure; it usually requires a bit of ingenuity, and the precise size fitting that you will need to connect the compressor hose to the tee fitting depends on the model of air compressor you're using and other variables. It's safe to assume that a standard fitting won't do the job; a bit of trial and error is usually necessary. Once the right fitting is found, though, it's as simple as screwing the air compressor hose onto the tee fitting. The threads from the tee fitting should fit with the threads on the metal nipple - that will be your ultimate goal, anyway.

Otherwise, another way of going about this process is unscrewing one of the test cocks and threading a male air hose fitting onto it. Simply attach the female end of the air hose to the male end of the line and you'll be good to go. A bit of trial and error is something necessary when the time to winterize rolls around, so don't be surprised if you have to make several trips to the hardware store to get everything working the right way. Be sure to organize all of the equipment and tools that you use to make the process easier next year.

Winterization For More Temperate Climates

The best news about how to winterize your irrigation system in a temperate climate is that the water does not need to be drained from underground pipes. It simply doesn't get cold enough to freeze that deep down in such climates. That means that you can avoid performing a sprinkler system blow out, having to use drain valves or using a shop vac to suction the water out.

As easy as it may be to winterize a lawn sprinkler system in a temperate climate, there are still steps that must be followed. The water supply must still be shut off (as outlined in section one) and you will also need to shut down the timer or controller as well. As mentioned before, the timer may be set to "rain mode," especially if it is a solid state, digital display controller. Doing this can save you a great deal of time and means that you won't have to reprogram the entire thing when spring rolls back around.

Gear-driven rotor sprinklers that are above ground must be drained, or the water can freeze, expand and damage them. If the water doesn't drain out on its own, a drain valve will need to be installed on the sprinkler supply line. Otherwise, you can remove the rotors and shake them out thoroughly; in that case, you should then store them for safekeeping until spring.

Above-ground piping will need to be insulated properly to ensure that it survives the colder time of year. Self-sticking foam insulating tape works the best for this kind of application. Similarly, foam insulating tubes work very well for this purpose.

A Note About Backflow Preventers

Whether you live in a temperate or a cold climate, you can save yourself a lot of hassle - and make winterization much easier - by insulating your irrigation system's backflow preventer. In cold climates, occasional late and early season freezes occur and can damage your equipment. Using a small amount of self-sticking foam insulating tape - without blocking the drain outlets or the air vents - should be sufficient. Otherwise, try using some R-11 fiberglass insulation. Wrap it around the backflow preventer, then use duct tape to secure a plastic bag around the whole thing. Don't secure it too tightly - just tight enough to keep it from blowing off.

Practice Makes Perfect

As outlined above, it is easy to see that winterizing your irrigation system doesn't have to be an impossible task. Doing it yourself can save you a great deal of money, and with every passing season you will become more skilled at it. Having the right equipment and parts can also help tremendously; you can find the best controllers/timers, for example, by visiting www.SprinklerWarehouse.com. Remember, also, that once you've insulated all of your pipes and backflow preventers properly, you will be set for some time and won't need to repeat the process every single year.

Weed Control

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While it may be hard to believe most weeds blow into your lawn as seeds and sprout the minute they find enough bare soil moisture and light to grow. This is true for both annual weeds and perennial weeds. Annual weeds sprout grow flower seed and die within one year. Perennial weeds sprout from a seed as well but the weed plant continues to grow and spread for more than one season even though the top may die back in the winter. Unfortunately fescue lawns weekend during our hot Southern Summers and a thinning lawn is the perfect place for weed seed to germinate and grow. Consequently your ultimate goal becomes to grow a thick luscious lawn that will actually prevent weed seeds from germinate. There are two ways to accomplish this. First correct fundamental problems like shade poor drainage and soil compaction that make growing a thick fescue lawn difficult at best. Second stay on top of your lawn maintenance. Fescue lawns need to be nurtured during the summer and a couple of weeks without water or mowing can be devastating. Even then you will need to incorporate in a weed control program into your yearly maintenance activities.

Irrigation

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Evergreen lawns may need water this month during warm, dry spells. Apply .5-1 inch of water per week if there has been no significant rainfall.

Newly seeded evergreen lawns should be watered frequently as they germinate. After two weeks, begin reducing the frequency but increasing the amount of each watering. By 4-6 weeks after seeding, you should be irrigating deeply and infrequently.

As temperatures warm later in the month, shift your watering schedule so that you irrigate during the day when water will evaporate more quickly from leaf blades. Fungal lawn diseases can develop when grass remains moist.

Fall Clean Up

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Rake or blow leaves from lawn areas as soon as possible. Heavy leaf fall can smother and damage

An evergreen lawn. This is especially important with newly seeded grass. Besides, rain is on the way and dry leaves are much easier to rake than wet leaves.

American Dream Lawn and Home Care is equipped to handle all of your needs.

(615)785-1796

Planting Warm-Season Lawns

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( Bermuda Grass, Centipede, Saint Augustine, and Zoysia)

May is the best time of year to plant warm-season grass lawns from sod, plugs, or seed.
Warm-season grasses will establish quickly as soil temperatures push toward 80 degrees later in the month. Then, they will have the entire growing season to grow into a thick, lush lawn. Remember to cultivate, amend the soil, and fertilize before planting. These steps should be followed whether you sod, plug, or seed your new lawn.

Seeding / Sodding

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March is the second best time of year to seed a new evergreen lawn. Begin seeding when soil temperatures rise to at least 55" and the danger of hard freezes has passed. This is usually when the Bradford Pear trees are in full bloom. Cultivate prior to seeding and keep the soil moist for two weeks to ensure even germination.

March is also a good time to lay fescue sod. Fescue roots grow best when soil temperatures are 50-65". With proper care, fescue sod laid this month will become established before the heat of summer arrives.

Fescue lawns

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This is very informative read for those wishing to learn more about there fescue lawn.
utextension.tennessee.edu/.../PB1576.pdf

Planting

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This is a good time to plant new shrubs and trees. Evaluate your landscape, remove unattractive plants, and replace them with others that you prefer. For any other information please give American Dream Lawn and Home Care a call at 615-785-1796

Fall Cleanup

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Give American Dream Lawn and Home Care a call today to schedule your clean up and then sit back and enjoy the holidays!
(615)785-1796

www.americandreamlawnandhomecare.com

Fall Cleanup

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Give me a call to get your lawn cleaned up before the holidays and all the family shows up!
615-785-1796

How grass grows

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Grasses have a unique way of growing,and it's this uniqueness that allows them to be used as lawns.Think of trees,shrubs and other plants in your yard and how they grow from the tips of there stems.If grasses grew in the same way,mowing would kill the lawn and you would never get that lush green carpet that accents your home.Instead the growing point of grass is called a crown-is at its base,and all new leaves come up through the old leaves.With the growing point buried at the base of the plant,you can repeatedly cut the leaves to keep them at a uniform height.And the more you cut them the thicker the grass becomes!If you let your grass go for long periods between mowings the plant may send up seed stalks.As these develop the growing point starts to rise with them so that when you do mow,you cut it off.Do this to often and you will start to thin your grass out.

Fall Overhaul!

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Give American Dream Lawn and Home Care a call (615)785-1796 to set up your one on one consultation to discuss a plan on reviving your summer stressed lawn!
- Aeration
- Seeding
- Sod installation
- Landscaping
- Hard scapes

American Dream Lawn and Home Care

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Some photos of our mulching,trimming,mowing and landscaping!

American Dream Lawn and Home Care

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Some recent landscaping,mulching and trimming!

Evergreen Grasses

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Evergreen grasses are not
Adapted to the southern climate and you should choose one carefully. Do not merely by the first bag of grass seed you find for sale. stores often stock grass seed that is meant for specialty use. In addition large chain stores my stock seed that is more suitable for northern lawns. some of these grasses will die promptly during a hot southern summer. Tall fescue including Kentucky 31 in the turf types in Kentucky bluegrasses are general-purpose lawn grasses. They both have a dark green color and will form a thick turf when grown properly. they will also tolerate moderate amounts of shade.tall fescue is very versatile and is usually the best choice for the middle and upper South. Kentucky bluegrass can be considered as an alternative in the mountains in Western Piedmont regions of the upper South. do not grow tall fescue or Kentucky bluegrass as a general purpose lawn grass in the lower south and coastal plain. creeping red fescue and chewing fescue are specialty grasses. they are very tolerant of shade and or sometimes sown in the shaded areas of a tall fescue lawn. creeping red and chewing fescue are very similar to one another and are actually varieties of the same species. they are not as durable as tall fescue but have a finer texture. they will need plenty of water since They usually have to compete with tree roots in shaded area.

Spring activities

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Right now is a great time of year to be mulching your bed's trimming shrubs and bushes and any other planting. At American Dream Lawn and Home Care we have the knowledge to get the job done right the first time. Ask around and talk to some your neighbors chances are we probably done some work for them. Give Steve a call at 785-1796 to schedule your appointment today!

Spring Fever

2012-03-24T18:31:00.001-07:00

Spring seems to be in full swing in middle Tennessee give American dream lawn and home care a call to get all your lawn care needs taken care of fast and with great service and quality work American dream lawn and home care is a full-service lawn care company that offers lawnmowing aeration over seeding fertilization and many other outdoor services call Steve at 785-1796

Bermuda Grass

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Bermuda grass is the lawn grass of the south. It was the first warm season grass on the scene over a hundred years ago and continues to be the most popular Southern grass. How can you not like a beautiful hybrid Bermuda Grass lawn? It withstands traffic, adores blazing hot temperatures, and spreads quickly into a dense mass. It is even forgiving of the occasional scalped spot, mole intrusion, and errant child with a shovel. But beside these "selling points," Bermuda Grass just feels good. It is the perfect grass for bare feet, soccer kicking, baseball throwing, and kid stomping. It is used on golf course (greens, tees, fairways), in baseball stadiums, football fields, and parks. It also won't stain your white poodle green. There are those detractors who will tell you that Bermuda Grass is a weed and that it's seeds end up in farm fields and flower beds alike. In all honesty, common Bermuda Grass is a problem weed for farmers and some gardeners. But don't be dissuaded! Hybrid Bermuda Grass is sterile and does not produce seeds that can cause problems in a garden. The worst you will have to worry about is your lawn inching out over the driveway. And that is a small price to pay for a dense, thick, beautiful lawn.

Insects and Diseases

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As air temperatures begin to warm late in the month, fungal diseases may arrive on evergreen lawns.
Be especially watchful when daytime air temperatures are 65-80 degrees, nighttime air temperatures are 50-60 degrees, and lawns are moist. Lawn diseases often appear as off-color or dead areas with clearly
defined edges. They can be controlled with lawn fungicide approved for use on your specific type of grass. It is too early in the season for most insect pests.

Fertilize

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Fertilize established evergreen lawns early in the month when soil temperatures reach a consistent 50 degrees, if you have not done so already. This is usually when the Forsythia is in bloom. Use a high-nitrogen, low-phosphorus fertilizer like 18-0-4 that includes a pre-emergence weed control. It is best if the nitrogen is NOT in a slow-release form. It should be in a soluble form like ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, or potassium nitrate. Apply at the rate of 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1000 square feet. This application will last 4-6 weeks.
Do not apply pre-emergence weed control if you plan to seed an evergreen lawn this spring.

Murfreesboro Lawn Care News and Tips

Soil Testing

Why Should You Consider Soil Testing?

When Should You Test?

What Do Soil Tests Measure?

Soil Chemistry — Why Should You Care About pH?

Other Valuable Soil Tests

Spring in Tennessee!!

Middle Tennessee Lawn Care Tips

Mowing

Water Management

Fertilization and Weed Control

Aerating and Overseeding

Basic step by step

Lawn Care Guide: Fertilizing Your Lawn

Premium vs. Professional Comparison Chart

Southern States® Premium Fertilizers

Southern States CarpetMaker® Professional Quality Turf Fertilizers

AVAIL®

Wolf Trax DDP® Micro-Nutrient Dry Fertilizer Coating

Winter Mower Storage

Winter Lawn Care

Seasonal Lawn Care Tips for Summer, Spring Winter & Fall

Irrigation Shut Down

How To Winterize Your Irrigation System The DIY Way

Weed Control

Irrigation

Fall Clean Up

Planting Warm-Season Lawns

Seeding / Sodding

Fescue lawns

Planting

Fall Cleanup

Fall Cleanup

How grass grows

Fall Overhaul!

American Dream Lawn and Home Care

American Dream Lawn and Home Care

Evergreen Grasses

Spring activities

Spring Fever

Bermuda Grass

Insects and Diseases

Fertilize

Southern States^® Premium Fertilizers

Southern States CarpetMaker^® Professional Quality Turf Fertilizers

Wolf Trax DDP^® Micro-Nutrient Dry Fertilizer Coating