Mussoorie the Queen of the Hills

HISTORIANS

2012-08-07T03:25:00.001-07:00

HISTORIANS

VIJAY SINGH NEGI

Vijay Singh Negi was born and brought up in Mussoorie where his growing days turned into an attachment with mountains, primarily with Garhwal. Vijay did B.Sc. from MPG College Mussoorie and then did masters in Aero-mechanical Engineering but destiny had something else stored for him. Things didn't work out on academic career seeking due to some reasons and Vijay turned from habitual photographer to a professional one. His passion for photography intensified during shooting in Gunhill and eventually Vijay began focusing inside Garhwal on an international level. Gradually, Vijay decided to preserve the beauty and culture of Garhwal through his visual insight. Soon Vijay began searching and researching on palaeography books and material as he has a thorough understanding of Sanskrit. He believes in reaching to a conclusion only through deep research and knowledge about the given enigma as words can decipher many meanings. Vijay is deeply obsessed with the Naag devta cult and the Mahabharata linkage with the mountains and particularly with lord Shiva as he believes that Shiva is the greatest philosopher and scientist on many of the aspects of the mountains. Vijay has in-depth knowledge of many valley civilizations. During his course of research and understanding, Vijay got immensely inspired from Professor Bhaktadarshan, the first Education minister of Uttar Pradesh and from Harbans Singh, the author of many volumes. Besides many breathtaking black &white photographs of Mussoorie and Garhwal, the treasure of Vijay as a historian of Garhwal and a chronicle on Mussoorie includes some rare coins of the Amoghpati era. Vijay is seen as the ultimate solution on any given dilemma. He intends to do so much for the preservation of the history and culture of Mussoorie and Garhwal but lacks funds to do the same.

JAI PRAKASH UTTARAKHANDI

Jai Prakash Shah was honoured with the title 'Uttarakhandi', whiles the 1981 Uttarakhand Rally in Delhi, for his active involvement in the agitation for a separate state of Uttarakhand during when he was jailed and tortured several times. Uttarakhandi was born on 5th September 1953 in Sanrap village of Jaunpur block of Tehri Garhwal. He went to Convent of Jesus and Mary Waverly for primary education and later switched between Mussoorie and Dehradun for higher studies. Uttarakhandi got passionate about literature after writing the play 'Apradhi Kaun' in the year 1972. He got into serious journalism with 'Dainik vanguard' in the year 1976. Later he wrote hundreds of articles for dailies like Amar Ujala, Dainik Jagran, Navbharat Times, Blitz, Jansatta, Ravivar and Badrivishal. Ever since 1983, Uttarakhandi went into deep research work and came up with his first book 'Mussoorie Dastavaz-1815-1995'. Soon he did a compilation of ten short stories based on words of mouth in and around Mussoorie which was published in Yugvani magazine. He received an award for his research story 'Fattudas' in the year 1984. Pertaining to the history of Mussoorie and Dehradun, 118 of his research work has been published so far. Uttarakhandi then did a thorough research through 1985-1986

THE MYSTIC OF JAUNPUR-JAUNSAAR

2012-08-07T03:13:00.000-07:00

The great penance of Yamuna shaped Jaunpur-Jaunsaar with her sweat giving the region a meaning. The awe inspiring beauty of the land compelled Kauravas and the Pandavas to make it a sojourn and eventually the seed of a unique lineage was sown. The ball game of Gendwa still beckons the memories of chopping off a head in the ancient times. And the tales are still narrated at nights by wrinkled faced elders gurgling hukka beside the cozy fire of the chulha inside the pine fragrant and homemade wine scented wooden houses.

The mystic Jaunpur-Jaunsaar with its allies Rawaeen and Bhaabur collectively form a hidden buffer zone between the trio district of Tehri Garhwal, Dehradun and Uttarkashi with Sirmour district of Himachal Pradesh as the northern frontier. The Queen of the Hills Musoorie, Vikasnagar and Hatkoti in Himachal Pradesh are the three entry points to the region the scenic beauty and rich culture of which is certainly exclusive in the entire mountains. Primarily a tribal habitation, the region is home to the Brahmins, Rajputs and the collective clans of craftsmen, artisans and musicians all living together in remote areas of either side of Yamuna river which coins the name Jaunpur-Jaunsaar. The other river divide is that of the Tons river in Rawaeen which is one of the wildest rivers in Asia and is a major tributary of Yamuna uniting at Kalsi. It is Yamuna who cushions the turbulent Tons in her tolerant domain as she is the outcome of age's old patience.

THE ESSENCE OF ORIGIN
According to the local legends, Surya Dev married Sangya who couldn't stand the heat of the Sun god during intimacy and hence created her clone Chhaaya for the purpose without the consent of her consort. In course of time Chhaaya gave birth to Yama, the god of death, and Yamuna. Once while playing, Yama accidentally kicked Sangya who got annoyed to the extent that she cursed Yama of a rotten leg. Yamuna, who loved her brother dearly, went to the harshest region (the present Yamunotri site) to undergo age's long penance which ultimately got Yama out of the curse. Yama blessed his sister with the boon to continue flourishing lives and that a dip in her water would save from akaalmrityu or untimely death. Bhaiyya Dooj is celebrated hence. Jaunpur and Jaunsaar are two fertile zones on either side of Yamuna and the elders assert that Jaunpur-Jaunsaar literally means Jamuna Paar and Jamuna Saar respectively. Life begins and ends in Yamuna for the people of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar as for them it is not just a river, it is a heavenly bliss.

THE HISSSSTORY OF THE BELIEF
The serpent god is the prime deity of the region who is worshipped as both Naagraaj and as Bhadraaj or Balram, the elder brother of Lord Krishna. On of the major temples of Naagraaj is located at Kyaarkuli village on the Dehradun-Mussoorie highway and that of Bhadraaj Devta is situated on a mountain top near Mussoorie. The other ancient temples of Naagraaj are located at Naag Tibba, Naagthaat, Devalsari and the one at Untar village is one fine piece of architecture. However, the customs and rituals clearly indicates the influence of the Pandavas in the region and practices like polyandry is still in vogue in the remote areas. The ASI protected Shiva temple at Lakhamandal in Jaunsaar is believed to have been built by the Pandavas and the area is often linked by some with the Laakshagriha conspiracy. Hundreds and hundreds of stone Shivalinga are still being unearthed from around the temple and village which supports the Puranic belief that the Pandavas built one Lakh Shivalinga to get out of the curse of Guru Hatya during the great war of Mahabharata. Later, the five brothers with their consort Draupadi moved towards the Swargarohini peak which dominates the Harkidun meadow in Rawaeen. On the other hand, the Harkidun valley is believed to be the domain of Duryodhana and Karna who spent a considerable span of time around the valley. The Someshwar temples at Mori, Netwaar, Saur, Osla, Dhaatmeer, Jakhol and the villages apart the Karmanaasha and Supin rivers were built by Duryodhana and Karna as indicates the temple plaques. Some elders believe that it is Duryodhana and Karna who were worshipped as gods.

The other prime deity of this divine land is Mahaasu Devta, a manifestation of Lord Shiva, who is one furious god of justice. Mahaasu Devta was called upon by the people from his seat in Kashmir to settle score with the demons and evil intensions that haunted them. The major temples of Mahaasu Devta are at Hanol near Mori, Biroud near Nainbaag and Lakhwaar near Mussoorie. An enormous procession is held each year during September as thanks giving to the lord who devastated the evil and brought a fair deal.

FAIR GAMES
Jaunpur-Jaunsaar-Rawaeen-Bhaabur is the land of fairs and festivals the colors and joviality of which keeps embracing the calm of the mountains all the year round.
ROJ ROJ MAROJ:
Maagh ka Mela or Maroj knocks the door during the whole month of January when the crisp winter Sun brings along the much needed warmth after the long chilly nights. The tired terraced fields go for a prolonged sleep under the thick blanket of soft snow. There is no work to do and the spirits are high. At dawn, the smoke coming out of the kitchen chimneys through granite slab roofs of wooden houses gel together with the morning vapors to ward off silence from the valleys. And it really works as the menu of the day remains mutton, mutton and mutton be it chili salt roasted with boiled sweet potatoes, pan fried with choice of green or red chutney or the Pahaari way flavored curry. Even the infants with no teeth are made to taste some. No work means no work which saves time for the major work for the preparation of excellent homemade herbs and grains wine. Within no time, the Sun gladly becomes the focus light and gaiety enthralls. Eating, drinking and social visits brings the Sun for a rest and huge bonfires lay the carpet for the virgin evening. The voice of the dusk echoes with sounds of laughter, whistling and distant efforts of heaving while the baajgi basks his drum skin beside fire. Raasu, Tandi and Pandava dance revolves around the fire and the evening matures into a satisfied night.

DUBDEE, THE FIRST FEED:
Dubdee, which is probably taken from the word Dub ( a grass), is a harvest celebration in which a bunch of the first ready crops of the season is worshipped by the womenfolk and plundered later by the men folk amidst continuous vigorous drum beats. Both men and women dance throughout the night later. Dubdee is a phenomenal procession in which a bunch of different crops, which grow in the region, is erected in a small field. Around 9 O'clock in the night, excitement takes over the sounds of the cicada and the crickets as people start gathering at the field after hearing a typical drum beat. The village informer or announcer called 'Pari' then shouts in a typical rhythmic tone- "Gaon ki Rehne… Dubdee pujene aijaao…" meaning come on all the Rehne or daughter-in-law to worship Dubdee. The Rehne start gathering in all their finery. Only the Rehne or daughter-in-law of the village worship Dubdee. The Dhyaane or the daughters of the village join later in singing and dancing. According to the belief, Dubdee is also seen as a Dhyaane or daughter of the village who was prohibited by her in-laws to go to her village to witness Dubdee, the first festival of the year. She later died. The curse of a Dhyaane can be devastating, commit any sin but never upset a Dhyaane believe the people of the region. In order to pacify her curse, the village Rehne worship that Dhyaane in the form of that bunch of crops singing the Dhyaane's last song- "Pehl ki Dubdee re tewaaraa, me bhai me to jaano desa" meaning the first festival Dubdee has come, I want to go to my village for the same. The men folk, who stand aside, sing in harmony-" Pehl ki Dubdee re tewaaraa, toun bhai jaane bhi ne dendaa" meaning, be it the first festival Dubdee, we are not letting you go. Women folk keeps fast that day, they only eat after the poojaa is done. They offer Pinoa, a mixture of different floor primarily Jhangora, to Dubdee. Pinoa is dipped in pure ghee and is eaten as Prashaad. Cooked rice and milk is also offered. Men folk wait anxiously to exploit the Dubdee once the women are through with poojaa while the Baajgee (the drummers) warm their drums beside fire, getting ready to throw energy through their beats. Soon after singing their last words, the women folk run off and the men folk attack Dubdee and with in no time, the bunch is reduced to the ground. Then goes the singing and dancing session from the field to the village Pandaal where all the villagers and guests participate. The whole village echoes with the sounds of joy overlooked by the pacified soul of the ever blessing Dhyaane.

MAHAASU JAAGDAA- THE ENLIGHTENING AWAKENING:
Every year on the Ganesh Chaturthi people from nearby villages and far gather for an enchanting night awakening locally known as "Jaagdaa" in praise of the great Mahaasu Devtaa at the temples of Lakhwaar in the Dehradun district and at Biroud in the adjoining Tehri Garhwal district. Mahaasu Devtaa, according to one belief, is one incarnations of "Mahaa Shiv" who along with his allies Raghunaath, Chaaldaa and Bothaa had come long time back in the Jaunpur-Jaunsaar region to get people rid off a demon named Kans. It is one belief that the demon named Kans had sealed the breasts of womenfolk of the region with metal locks in order to prevent any infant from feeding resulting in the infant's death. An episode in the Krishna Puraan supports this belief that Kans had a threat of life from the 8th kid of Devki, Kans's sister. This whole chaos could have been an attempt by Kans to make survival impossible for all the young ones in his region and in the neighboring provinces. The people of the region, when had enough of Kans's torture, called Mahaasu Devtaa from the highlands of Kashmir. Mahaasu Devtaa is one such deity of fury and anger that Kans couldn't continue his evil practices and never returned to the region. Ever since then, Mahaasu Devtaa has His seats or temples, at Hanol in the Tons river valley and at Lakhwaar and Biroud villages along with other villages in either sides of Yamuna river. Chaaldaa Devtaa, as His name suggests, is ever moving and never sits in one place for long. The grandeur of the majestic ancient images of the great lord is visible for people only once a year for two days and a night in between on Ganesh Chaturthi when people spend the days and night singing and dancing in trance with the Devtaa's Paalki. The Pandavas also dance in praise of the lord using the believer's bodies. Huge goats are offered to the lord not to be slaughtered but to be left in the wild later which remain unharmed by humans or the wild beasts. This mesmerizing procession keeps going on till 4 O'clock in the morning after which the Devtaa bathes in closed doors all by Himself unattended even by the temple priests. The next day, what flour is thrown in the air by the temple priest and later by the mob and who so ever comes under the shower of the flour is bound to visit the Jaagda each year.

THE BELATED DIWALI: People of the region celebrate Diwali, what they call Bagwaali, precisely one month after the Diwali that rest of India celebrates. They have their own peculiar customs which are cherished during the festival. An interesting story leads to the logic behind such a delay. According to the local belief, which has traveled through words of mouth, once a fierce battle ensued between the Raja of Kumoun and the Raja of Tehri. The Kumouni fighters, who were famous for their warfare, were in large number and were equipped with latest weapons. The Tehri Raja, on the other hand, was sharp in brains. He knew about his people in Jaunpur-Jaunsaar as most of the area falls in Tehri. There used to be 'Nau Gaja Bhad' (nine feet tall men) in some of the villages of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar. The Tehri Raja took along 'Bhad' from each of these villages to fight against the Kumouni army. Diwali was few days away and the 'Bhad' had gone out to fight against a violent army so the villager with little hope didn't celebrate Diwali. However the Tehri army won the battle and the 'Bhad' returned home a month after Diwali. Celebration was bound to take place to welcome the victorious 'Bhad' and to resume the paused Diwali. Ever since then, the people of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar follow the same regime. The Jaunpur-Jaunsaar Diwali embarks celebrations with a different kind of firework. On the first day womenfolk, while singing folk songs grind Jhangora and Kouni (types of rice) to prepare delicious cookies called 'Askey' after which the first day is known as. The night is spending munching, drinking Soor (homemade ale brewed with herbs and grains) and dancing. Notably, Pandava dance is the pride of the region. Next day is known as Pakodya as pakoda of various pulses are cooked, all the while munching, singing and dancing continues. The third day which falls on Amaavas Sankrant is known as Baraaj on which people spent the whole night making long ropes of Babaeen (kind of hay) to play Bhaand (tug of war) the next day, Huge sacks of dry weeds and crop leftovers, known as Dhimsiya, are first worshipped and then set to fire which sources fire to individual torches made out of Bhimal twigs. These torches are called Holday which people juggle around with in the fields. During the earlier days humans used to slide down a long rope from a hill top to the valley below carrying Holday in hands, thankfully the suicidal performance is now replaced by a human effigy. Forth day is the much awaited day of playing Bhaand (tug of war). The rope is considered as Naag Devta who is the prime deity of the region and hence it is made to purify in the village stream. Then follows a hilarious tug of war between men and womenfolk in which most of the time the womenfolk win. After the decisive game is over the rope is covered with a huge metal cover and is guarded the whole night or else it (the Devta) will run to other village, believes the villagers. The festival that begins late ends late as well. All the while munching, drinking and dancing continue.
Other fairs which keeps the spirits high throughout the year are Devgati ka mela (February-March), Bissu ka mela (April), Challi ka mela (3rd May), Asaad ka mela (July), Saawan ke mela (August) and Bhadraaj ka mela (16-17 August).

THE LEGEND OF THE CHOPPED OFF HEAD Netwaar in Rawaeen is the widest stretch in the Harkidun valley where the Rupin and Supin rivers unite to give birth to Tons. The turbulent confluence is silently overlooked by the ancient temple of Karna which is a fine masterpiece of Pahaari architecture. The otherwise quiet terraced fields witness aggression and often get stained with blood during the month of February when hundreds of men divided into two groups punch, kick and even thrash the opponent with sticks just to snatch and posses a ball which coins the occasion with the name Gendwa ka mela. The chaotic game symbolizes an incident of the past where a head of an individual of a particular group was chopped off by the other. The kin of the deceased wanted to posses the head which they were denied to and a scuffle ensued. Although barbaric, the men of the villages participate just for the fun of it and at the end of the day, there are no hard feelings.

PARTY HARD WORK HARDER
The people of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar are primarily self sufficient farmers and have enough for a healthy sustainance. The bovine connection with Bhadraaj Devta has blessed them with immense livestock and milk and milk products. However, in the olden days, it was only salt for which they used to venture to places like Vikasnagar and barter salt with pure ghee as they never commercialized milk owing to the belief that it was the Devta's bliss. Eventually, they began trading milk products like ghee and curd along with fresh and organic vegetables that includes beans, cucumber, gourd, bitter gourd, pumpkin, lady finger, radish, carrot, buck weed, corn, walnut, fern and wild mushroom. The humble villagers would wake up at 4 in the morning and would walk with their ponies laden with fresh pick to distant places like Nainbaag, Mussoorie and Vikasnagar. Gradually, the commercialization got intensified and excellent yields like Rajma, rice, wheat, potato, pea, culath, jhangora and gainth became popular all over the neighboring districts. Ponies got to get some rest giving way to loader jeeps some of which flattens because of overload while the ponies watch amusingly clapping their long ears and munching gur-chana. The horticulture of the region is going great guns too and the goods are finding place in the metros. Some of the private orchards are producing top grade fruits and by products out of Rhododendron, apple, apricot, plum, kiwi, pear, peach, mango, strawberry and the wild berries and flowers. Floriculture is also in full swing and the flowers from the nursery at Bhilaru forest would adorn the Commonwealth games in New Delhi. The cottage industry incorporating trees like Gainthi (for utensils and furniture), Bhimal (for toiletries and fiber) and Himrai (for medicinal use) and the multipurpose Ringaal is one promising avenue to fetch self employment and big time revenue.

PARADISE REVEALED

Tourism is the latest opportunity to boost the economy in the region. Although the Yamunotri highway snakes along against the flow of the gorgeous Yamuna, the Jaunpur-Jaunsaar long remained isolated and unexplored due to same misconceptions of the past. The course of time has learned a lot from Yamuna and to date tourism is expanding in the region like her elaborated curves. The pristine Harkidun meadow in the lap of Swargarohini peak and the Jaundhaar glacier has emerged as one preferred destination among keen trekkers and botanists and the more adventurous climb the peak which remained prohibited to scale owing to religious significances. The skilled ones cross the Bharaasu pass and the Rupin pass to land into Chitkul in Sangla valley Himachal Pradesh. The Harkidun meadow is no less than the Valley of Flowers during monsoon. Considering the habitation of a healthy population of leopards, Himalayan black bears, antlers, giant squirrels, porcupines and other mammals, reptiles and birds, a part of the valley has been protected as Govind Wildlife Sanctuary which is a windfall gain for naturalists and environmentalists. A visit to the Ruinsara, Judaataal and Saruka lakes is worthwhile. Other destinations of tourist interests are Mahaasu temples at Hanol and Lakhwaar, the fruit orchards at Tiuni and Arakot, camping and rafting in Tons near Mori, the pine forest at Jarmola, the wide fields at Purola, the ASI Shiva temple at Lakhamandal, camping, rafting and angling in Yamuna, trekking to the tops of Naag Tibba and Naag Thaat, the tranquility at Chakrata and Kanasar with Tiger falls (one of the highest waterfalls in the country), ASI site Ashokan rock edict at Kalsi, Benog Mountain Quail Bird Sanctuary at Mussoorie, souvenir shopping at Purola, Nowgaon, Tiuni, Nainbaag, Vikasnagar, Kalsi and Mussoorie. There are GMVN guest houses and Forest Rest Houses all through the trails. There are neat, clean and reasonable private lodges also. In any case, food and shelter is not a constraint in Jaunpru-Jaunsaar because the hisssstory of the Naagraaj and the fierce judgment of Mahaasu Devta has kept the people humble and bowed. That is why there is no place like Jaunpur-Jaunsaar and that is why the Yamuna flows.

THE MYSTIC OF JAUNPUR-JAUNSAAR

2012-08-07T02:00:00.000-07:00

MORI

2012-08-07T00:30:00.000-07:00

Area (sq. km): ?
Altitude :
Population : ?
STD code :
Distance : 173km from Dehradun, 408 km from Delhi.

Mori is the gateway of the mesmerizing Harkidun Valley which is dominated by the Swargarohini peak, the Jaundhar glacier and the Bharasu pass that leads to Chitkul in the Sangla valley in the Himachal Pradesh. The Yamuna river valley ends at Nowgaon form where one road diverts to Yamunotri while the other enters Purola. Jarmola Dhar ahead of Purola is one of the most beautiful pine forested areas in the entire state of Uttarakhand. The whole geography and the feel drastically changes after the Jarmola pass and an amazingly beautiful region, almost a complete new world, follows. This area of Jaunpur is known as Rawaein. This stretch is picturesquely adorned with tiny village houses and a few Van-gujjar (nomadic herdsmen) huts. The downhill route lands at the block of Mori which is the dominion of the Tons Valley. One road goes to Himachal Pradesh via Hanol and Tyuni from the Mori Barrier while the other enters the mesmerizing Harkidun valley, the domain of Duryodhana and Karna of the epic Mahabharata.

Around Mori:

Mori is the vantage point of some of the very less explored hidden wonders of nature that includes high altitude meadows, virgin glaciers, world famous peaks and distinct passes. Legend has it that Duryodhana and Karna of the epic Mahabharata had fallen in love with the beauty of the valley and had spent some time in the area seeking permission from Mahasu Devta. Their temples still dominate the villages of the valley.

• Netwar: Netwar is a small hamlet on the confluence of Rupin and Supin rivers which becomes Tons from here onwards. Netwar village is scenically located on the Harkidun road which runs parallel to the Supin River which comes from Sankri Village. The people of the area speak a dialect which is very discrete from the rest of the Jaunpur-Jausaar region. A temple of Karna is one peculiarity of the village. Netwar is the starting point for the Rupin pass trek which goes through the unique tribal villages of Dodra-Kwaar. Netwar is also the entry point for the Govind Wildlife Sanctuary that inhabits 11 mammals and 150 bird species. The sanctuary entry fee for Indians is Rs 30 for Indians and Rs 350 for foreigners for 3 days which exceeds to Rs 20 and Rs 175 respectively for each additional day. A GMVN guest house and a Forest Rest House stand isolated next to the village.

• Sankri: Sankri village is the road end for the trek further to the Harkidun valley, Bharasu pass and Ruinsara Lake, Kedarkanta peak, Jakhol village and Saruka Lake. However, a dirt track, which is trodden by the local jeep drivers only, takes further 11km to the village of Taluka. Sankri village is adjacent to the much populated Saur village which is perched atop the confluence of Obragaad stream and the Karmanasha stream which originates from the Harkidun meadow. The logically designed deodar wooded house makes it a visual delight. There is one GMVN guest house and a Forest Rest house at Sankri. The temple of Duryodhana stands in the middle of Saur village.

• Kedarkanta and Judatal: A steep 5km trek atop Saur village takes to the breathtaking meadow of the Kedarkanta peak which provides a commanding view of the entire Rawaein region and the grater Himalayan wall. The tiny Judatal Lake is beautifully located en route amidst thick forest just a km from Saur village.

• Jakhol village and Saruka Lake: Jakhol village is the biggest and probably the oldest village of the entire Harkidun valley. All the deodar wooded houses are layered with stone slab roofs. A diversion about 2 km before Sankri leads to Jakhol village after crossing the iron bridge over the Karmanasha stream. The serpent stretch of about 500 meters after the bridge is very narrow and spine chilling, a good deal for the adventurous spirited ones. The temple of Duryodhana stands in the middle of the village. A gradual ascent of about 2 km leads to beautiful Saruka Lake which is also the water hole for the wild beasts and other mammals of the region. The lake is also an important ritual site for the locals. Jakhol is also one of the routes to the Sirga top and Sirga village which give a fantastic view of the region. A GMVN guest house and a Forest Rest House are perched over the village.

• Taluka village: Taluka village is an amazingly beautiful site 11km from Sankri on the Harkidun route. The lush buck weed fields amidst wooden houses make it a picture perfect sight. Local jeeps plea up till Taluka only and it is all trekking route beyond this point. A few minutes walk from Taluka takes to a diversion of routes which unite again after 6 km at Gangaar village. An almost leveled surface track along the Karmanasha stream takes to the village of Gangaar while a steep climb form the diversion takes to the hidden village of Dhatmeer village from where a leveled surface and then a downhill route with numerous streams leads to Gangaar village from where a 4 km trek leads to Seema, the last habitation in the route. There are GMVN rest house and Forest Rest House at Taluka.

• Seema: Seema is a small junction of routes for the Ruinsara Lake, the overlooking Osla village and for the Harkidun meadow. There are small wooden eating joints at Seema which are lined across the GMVN guest house and the Forest Rest House.

• Harkidun: An 8 km trek from Seema takes to the heavenly picturesque and very less explored Harkidun meadow (3565 m), the abode of the Swargarohini peak (6096 m), Jaundhar glacier and Bharasu pass. The vast meadow of Harkidun is adorned with tall alpine trees and is intersected by the Karmanasha stream. The variety and density of wild flowers during monsoon ranks Harkidun next to the Valley of Flowers. The only man made structures in the Harkidun valley is the GMVN guest house which stands a few hundred meters from the Forest Rest House. On the eastern side of the valley stands the majestic Swargarohini peak over the Jaundhar glacier while the vast meadow in the north takes to the Bharasu pass which leads to the Sangla Valley of Himachal Pradesh. It is a belief that the Harkidun valley is inhabited by celestial beings and fairies.

• Ruinsara Lake: An enchanting 11km route from Seema leads to the awe inspiring Ruinsara Lake which is picturesquely located on an isolated meadow. The trek is a gradual ascent with walk on a level surface crossing numerous streams and the beautiful meadow of Debsu Thatch which tempts for camping. There is no place for a night halt, however there is ample space for camping and a rock shelter also provided the trek is made well equipped advisably with a trained guide. The south-west direction of the lake takes to the difficult Yamuna Kanta pass which leads to Yamunotri. The surrounding includes the majestic Bandarpoonch peak (6387m), a walk further brings to Kiarkoti surrounded by Swargarohini peak (6000m), Dhumdhar Kandi (5873m), Kala Naag (6387m) and the White Peak (6102m).

YAMUNOTRI

2012-08-06T23:56:00.000-07:00

Area (sq. km): ?
Altitude : 3323m
Population : ?
STD code :
Distance : 175 km from Dehradun

Traditionally the first of the Char-Dham of Uttarakhand, Yamunotri is the iconic source of the holy river Yamuna. However, the actual source of the river is the Champasar glacier near the Saptrishi Kund of the eastern face of the Bandarpoonch peak. In the year 1816 British Army officer and world famous lithographer Sir James Frazer depicted the 3 feet tall temple with a priest performing pooja. Later the temple was rebuilt by the Maharaja of Tehri Sudarshan Shah around the year 1850. The temple was damaged several times owing to heavy snow. It was finally rebuilt by Maharaja Pratap Shah of Tehri with a black stone image of Yamuna and a white marble image of Ganga both worshipped as goddesses. An interesting story leads to the descending of Yamuna on earth. According to the legend, Surya Dev married Vishwakarma's daughter Sangya but she couldn't bear the heat of Surya Dev while intimacy for long after giving birth to Yama and Yamuna. She produced her clone Chhaya who could bear the heat owing to her long and dense locks. Sangya asked Chhaya to keep the secret; Chhaya agreed to the condition that nobody ever dishonor her hair. One day Yama accidentally kicked Chhaya while playing; Chhaya cursed Yama of a rotten leg. Surya Dev got furious and grabed Chhaya with her hair and the secret was revealed as chhaya broke down. Yamuna, out of love for his brother, descended down to earth to do penance to bring her brother out of the curse. Yamuna did penance for years and got her brother Yama out of the curse. Yamuna was blessed by her brother Yama, the god of death, with the omen that her devotees would be barred from akalmrityu (untimely beath). The convention of Bhai-Dooj came into being ever since then. Hence, it is still a belief that a dip in Yamuna's holy water would exclude from akalmrityu. There are a few hot water spring around the wooden temple out of which Suryakund is the prime one which was offered by Surva Dev himself to his beloved daughter Yamuna as a help to endeavor the harsh cold environ of the Kalind Parvat, the base of the Yamunotri temple. Pilgrims today boil rice and potato tied in a piece of cloth by dipping in the boiling water which cooks within minutes to savor as Prasad. A black stone slab, Divya Shila, where a hot water spring shoots out is worshipped first of all as the origin of the holy Yamuna. Pilgrims also carry the holy water of Yamuna to offer to lord Krishna as Yamuna was one of the queen's of the lord. A small stream near the temple is worshipped as Ganga as according to the legends, sage Asit had his humble hermitage near the temple. The sage was such a devotee of both heavenly rivers Yamuna and Ganga that he would walk between the two every day to take divine bath in the holy waters of both. Over the period of time when he couldn't continue because of old age, it is said that Ganga herself appeared for her devotee near the temple. The temple opens for pilgrims on the auspicious occasion of Akshay Tritiya which fall around the last week of April to the first week of May. The closing down ceremony of the temple follows on Yama Dwitiya or on Bhai-Dooj, the second day of Diwali. The deity is then taken down to the village of Kharsali near Jankichhatti (2576m) the natives of which are the priests of the temple. The temple vicinity is then left by a complete hush with only sound of gently flowing Yamuna dripping from the ice snouts and rumbling through the pebbles.

Yamunotri Route:

Yamunotri can be reached both from Rishikesh via Dharasu and the beautiful pine forest of Rari Ka Danda (2286 m) and from Mussoorie via the Yamuna valley through Nowgaon (1524 m). Both the roads meet at Barkot.

• Barkot: Barkot (1828 m) is an upcoming township and is the last market on the route to Yamunotri. The town is beautifully located amidst buck weed fields, vast valley sliding down to the crystal clear energetically flowing Yamuna and the grand panorama of the distinctively beautiful Bandarpoonch massif. The fields of Barkot are famous for its Rajma, potato, pea, plum, pear, apple, apricot and walnut. From Barkot onwards, the picturesque route cruises against the vibrantly gushing Yamuna.

• Sayanachatti: The stopovers at the pilgrim route in Uttarakhand are known as Chatti. Sayanachatti (1982 m) is one such small village for night halt on the Yamunotri route 30 km from Barkot. There are few eating joints along the road which also provide shelter for the night for a reasonable price, however, there is one GMVN guest house a little secluded from the roadside.

• Hanumanchatti: Next stopover en route 5 km from Sayanachatti is Hanumanchatti (2134 m) which had long been the motor road end and the last point for tit-bit shopping. This little hub remains quite busy during pilgrimage and trekking season as it is also the starting point for the round trek to Dharwadhar which leads to Dodital Lake. The Hanumanchatti GMVN guest house is serenely located on the banks of the Yamuna. The road head has now been extended till Jankichatti.

• Phoolchhatti: A short drive from Hanumanchatti leads through Phoolchatti (2561 m), a nature's wonder with exotic wild flowers, which is a visual delight during spring through monsoon. A GMVN guest house is perched in tranquility.

• Jankichatti: Another short drive on tricky route takes to Jankichatti (2567 m) which is the last motor able point. Jankichatti is the busiest chatti in the entire route as the pilgrims have to return the same day from Yamunotri due to the limitations of a night halt shelter. The 6 km trek to the shrine is bliss with gigantic mountains, tall alpine trees, exotic Himalayan flora and the soul strumming sound of the young and playful Yamuna. The route ahead Jankichatti is narrow and quite adventurous. Pony and daandi (palanquin) are available for the easy movers for which a prior booking is advisable.

• Saptrishi Kund: The actual source of the Yamuna lies on the Kalinda Parvat above the shrine the approach towards which is through a tricky steep climb of about over 1000 meters. The devoted pilgrims take a dip in the Saptrishi Kund before worship at the temple below. The lake vicinity provides an excellent view of the towering mountain ranges and the enchanting meadows.

CHAKRATA

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Area (sq. km): ?
Altitude : 7000ft
Population : ?
STD code : 0135
Distance : 87km from Dehradun, 326 km from Delhi.

The dense jungle of tall oak and deodars of Chakrata was established by Colonel Hume and his fellow officers of the 55th British regiment during the year 1880. In order to avoid army check posts and a comparatively narrow road, Chakrata can be reached through a bit longer but wider and picturesque route coming from Mussoorie via Yamuna Bridge and the pristine town of Naagthaat. Inhabiting a handful population of the native Jausaari people, Chakrata is primarily a cantonment where various special training programs of the Indian Army are undertaken. Most of the tough-end commando trainings of the army are synonym with the wilderness and the rugged terrain of Chakrata. The presence of the army has discouraged any commercialization in Chakrata for good and the virgin tranquility of the interior Himalayan region still beckons there. Very few army settlements, which are masterpieces of colonial architecture, are the only construction in the area beside some local Jaunsaari dwellings. A small slumbering market is often seen with people chit-chatting on various issues but can cater to almost all the basic needs while traveling like clothing, batteries, candles, vegetables, chicken and mutton. The central attraction of the serene Chakrata is the Forest Rest House in the wilderness which is one fine colonial building amidst tall deodar and vast lawns. The tariff is quite reasonable provided an advance booking is assured from Kalsi, Dehradun or Mussoorie DFO offices. A vacancy is very hard to find as the Rest House always remain occupy, particularly during the peak summer months. However, there is ample space for camping in the forest where the locals can help in cooking narrating spine chilling folk tales beside the cozy fire. A sound sleep beneath crystal clear night with a much illuminated milky way insures a magnificent panorama of the Mighty Himalayas the next morning.

Around Chakrata:

Any direction is ideal for a leisurely walk around the cozy little town. However, only Indian nationals are allowed beyond Kalsi and it is a prohibited zone ahead for foreigners.

• Tiger falls: The second highest water in the country after the Jog Falls is the Tiger Falls which precipitates from a height of 312 ft. a pleasant 5km walk through the thick deodar, oak and rhododendron forest leads to the Tigers Falls providing awe inspiring views of the mighty Bandarpoonch massif, the Swargarohini peak, Srikantha, Jaonli and other peaks of the great Himalayan wall.

• Ram tal: Ram tal is a small horticulture garden with a natural pond 10km away on the Mussoorie road. The pond and the apple orchards are a favorite hangout for picnics.

• Deoban: Deoban is situated at a height of 9,400 ft atop the vast meadow that is cleared after a 13km drive through deodar wooded forest. The route which is only a four wheel drive dirt track, traverse through one of the most spine chilling terrains in the entire Himalayan region but the views of the forests and the lofty Himalayas are just rewarding. A fantastic British bungalow stands atop the meadow and is the only night halting shelter, but there is no water and electricity in the bungalow. However, a stream downhill on the other side is there for the adventurous. Besides, there is ample space for camping.

• Mundali: The outer stretch of the Deoban meadow slopes down to Mundali (11,000ft) is an ideal ski slope. The jeep drive towards Mundali is a tough one and an expert four wheel driver is recommended for the same. The vast lawns of the meadow serves ideal for a family picnic.

• Kanasar: Rated as the best deodar forest with the tallest trees in the entire Asia, Kanasar is 28km from Chakrata on the Tyuni Highway. The drive up to Kanasar is no less then a fantasy which en-routes through virgin forests, waterfalls and exotic wildlife. The lone Forest Rest House is there to get accommodated in for which prior booking has to be ensured from Dehradun or Chakrata Forest Divisions. But for the more adventurous there are a number of thrilling camping sites.

• Tyuni: Tyuni is the second prime hub of the Jaunsaar tribal block. Sharing its border with the Sirmour district of the Himachal Pradesh, Tyuni is scenically located aloft the Tons River finding a gateway to the neighboring Himachal Pradesh. The customs, the attire and even the dialect of the native Jaunsaari people is very similar to that of their neighboring Himachali people.

• Hanol: the ancient village of Hanol is primarily famous for the temple of Mahasu Devta who is the prime deity of the entire Jaunpur-Jaunsaar region. Known for his furious justice, Mahasu Devta is one incarnation of Lord Shiva who has come all the way from Kashmir to get people rid of evil spirits that haunted the region. The beautiful temple architecture resembles trans-Himalayan style and is still in good shape. The temple complex stand next to the Tons River on the Mussoorie-Mori-Tyuni highway. The temple vicinity is prohibited for foreigners. A Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) guest house near the temple is the ideal place for lodging.

CULTURE AND HERITAGE

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The quintessential culture of Mussoorie region is a culmination of the influence of its settlers who chronologically followed one after other. The beautiful ridge which we know as Mussoorie was once a lush forest comprising oak, rhododendron and deodar where the people of Bhatta and Kyarkuli villages, primarily Jaunpuri, grazed their cattle. One particular shrub called Mansoor (cororiana nepalensis) grew in abundance here hence the villagers named the ridge Mansuri. It was during the year 1826 that Captain Frederick Young of the Sirmour Rifles ventured out on a horse from Rajpur into the Mansuri ridge. As the region was rich in exotic flora and fauna, Captain Young, along with Sir F.J. Shore, built a shooting box around the Camel’s Back Road area. Later, Captain Young made the first residential building in Mansuri which he named Mullingaar after his county in Ireland. Talk about the newly found hill resort spread like wild fire to the farthest of places and many more Britishers including officers of the East India Company, renowned writers, artists and entrepreneurs followed suit resulting in the establishment of the Landour and Mussoorie township. Eventually Mansuri of the local hill folk became a haven for pleasure and gaiety with the Queen of the Hills as its new identity. The fun and galore that enthralled the days and nights of Mussoorie gradually lured the princes and the nawabs of the Indian states who got built their impressive chateaus and bungalows at striking locations in and around the town. Soon, the Hillman from the villages of neighbouring Garhwal and Jaunpur-Jaunsaar, businessmen community from the plains and the Gorkhali people began immigrating in pursuit of commercial opportunities. The Bhotias are also one of the settlers in Mussoorie. After the Chinese occupation of Tibet in the year 1959 a number of Tibetans got settled forming their government in exile in the Happy Valley area. However, the exemplary appeal of the Queen of the Hills lies in the romance and charm of the colonial times which still beckons through its tranquillity harbouring the humble way of living of the natives. Mansuri has its mention in numerous Jaunpuri and Garhwali folk and contemporary lore and songs. Primarily, the culture of a region is identified with its core faith, fairs and festivals. As far as faith is concern, Mussoorie is guarded by the Surkanda Devi in the east which is an inclination more of garhwal and by the Bhadraaj Devta in the west who is the prime deity of Jaunpur. The fairs and festivals includes of those of the Jaunpuris, Garhwalis, Vaishyas, Punjabis, Muslims, Christians, Gorkhalis, Bhotias and Tibetans glorifying Mussoorie into a harmonious zenith of a unique social setup.

HERITAGE

The Queen of the Hills is abundantly adorned with the legacy and heritage which is about to complete 200 years of existence. Most of the buildings and structures date back to the times of the pioneer settlers of Mussoorie. The Mullingaar building, the residence of Captain Frederick Young and the first residential building in Mussoorie, still stands above Landour overlooking the town and the Doon valley. To bring pride and honour to the queen of the Hills, the Oak grove School Building has been listed in the UNESCO World Heritage Site. The list is really very long but the heritage building to name a few includes the Hakman’s hotel, the Charliville, the Library and the Criterion, the Velridge, the Lynndale, the Clouds End, the Exchange, the Kilmarnock and the Kohinoor. The Galogi power station at Bhatta village is the second hydro-electricity power station in the country after Orissa. The Picture Palace or the Electric Picture Palace as it was then called is the first picture hall in the country which was run with electricity. The Christ Church is the oldest Church of North India. The Rink was the biggest and the most happening roller skating rink in the country. The Savoy hotel was the biggest hotel in the country in terms of area. The Park Estate, also known as Sir George Everest house, was the residence cum office of the Sir George Everest who was the then Surveyor General of the Royal Trigonometric Survey of India. The residence and the observatory still exist at the Estate. Mussoorie has been home to many great personalities of the past and present. The list is long again but to mention a few names it includes Sir John Mackinnon, Sir Henry Bohle, Sir Frederick ‘Pahari’ Wilson, Sir John Lang, Sir Jim Corbett, Maharani Jinda Kaur of Punjab, Maharaja Duleep Singh of Punjab, Maharaja Rajendra Singh of Kapurthala, Maharaja of Baroda, Maharaja of Jind and Rahul Sanskrityayan. All the English gentlemen mentioned above, baring Sir Corbett, are resting in peace in the cemeteries of Mussoorie. The well known residents of the present time include Padamshree Ruskin Bond, Padamshree Tom Alter, Steve Alter, Victor Banerjee, Pronoy Roy, Hugh and Colleen Gantzer, Kaka Hathrasi, Prem Nath, Prem Chopra, Naseeruddin Shah, Sudhir Thapliyal, Ganesh Shaili, K.P. Singh, Vishal Bhardwaj, Sachin Tendulkar, Sanjay Narang, Pritam Bhartawan, Uma Lall, Meena Rana and Sanjay Kumola. Some of the historical facts related to Mussoorie suggest that Sir George Everest measured the height of Mount Everest from here, Rahul Sanskrityayan, who was an avid traveller, writer and master of seven foreign languages, compiled his most famous volumes staying in Mussoorie and noted Novelist Agatha Christie’s first ever novel ‘Mysterious affairs at styles’ was based on an incident happened at the Savoy Hotel. More on the heritage of Mussoorie can be checked in our ‘Historians’ section.

FLORA AND FAUNA

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The exotic flaora-fauna of Mussoorie is one prime reason for the settlement of the township. The Mansuri ridge was rich in its striking wildlife and hence Captain Frederick Young, the first resident of Mussoorie, along with Sir F.J. Shore built the first hunting and shooting box near the Camel's Back area. Eventually, the Mussoorie ridge, which was a lush forest comprising oak, rhododendron and deodar with its pleasing climate like that of the Irish and Scottish highlands, was chosen as the best location for a healthy sojourn and subsequently, the Landour Sanitarium was established here. The Benog Sanctuary covers the forest of the western ridge of Mussoorie and happens to be the area where the extinct mountain quail was last seen during the 1970s. The thick jungles of Mussoorie inhabits a healthy population of birds along with leopards, Himalayan black bear, barking deer, jungle martens, rabbits, pheasants and wild rodents. The healthy population of avifauna in the forest of Mussoorie makes an ideal place for bird watching. The flora of Mussoorie is gifted with fruits trees that include Chestnut, Quinn and Pear. A haven for botanists, the treasure with medicinal value includes Himrai, Pudina-khar, Gingko Biloba, which is also a rare living fossil, and a number of high grade herbs.

LANDOUR BAZAAR

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The Landour area is the oldest settlement in the entire township and still preserves the tranquility of the bygone colonial times. The uphill walk towards Landour begins from the eastern end of the Mall road. The Clock Tower is the point from where the Landour Bazaar exceeds till the Gurudwara Chowk. During the British times the same stretch was known as Parade Lane as the British Army troops marched on it. Later a small business hub evolved here which was named as Shivaji Market. The former Clock Tower had a history of its own the gong of which was audible till Rajpur as claim some elders. The Castle Hill is the estate where Maharani Jinda Kaur of Patiala was kept in exile. Now the estate belongs to the Survey of India. The numerous South Indian cuisines joints opposite to the Castle Hill gate are favorite hang outs amongst youngsters of the town who frequent there for mouth watering Dosa and Idli.

Another land mark in the Landour Bazaar is the Kohinoor Building which has completed more than hundred years of existence. The Survey Chowk is named so after the Survey field which venues numerous sports and cultural activities of the town. The Survey Chowk is lined with shops famous for delicious sweets and Namkeens. The Landour Bazaar is also famous for a number of shops where exclusive Pahaari silver jewelry is made to order. The Survey Chowk leads through Gurudwara Chowk from where an uphill climb provids birds' eye view of the Landour settlement. This narrow alley is lined with small shops of customized handmade leather footwear, antiques and Bhotia eateries and Woolens. The climb culminates at Mullingaar, the first residential building of Mussoorie, thus giving the locality its name after it. Mullingaar is the only Bhotia habitation in the town and the Bhotia elders can be seen playing cards or just basking cozy sun in the wind shelters of slumbering Mullingaar. The route is also frequented by many fair skinned ones as the Woodstock International School and the Language school is the prime nucleus of their settlements. The Mullingaar square is the bifurcation point for the road going to Dhanaulty and the one going further to Chaar-Dukan, Laal Tibba and Sister Bazaar. The tranquil walk towards Chaar-Dukan is thickly dense with oak and rhododendron the very air of which is quite soothing. Reasonably, the area comes under the Landour Cantonment Board and the residents include Padamshree Ruskin Bond, Padamshree Tom Alter, Steve Alter, Victor Banerjee, Pronoy Roy, Vishal Bhardwaj, Sachin Tendulkar, Sanjay Narang and Tenzin Nyima of the Bollywood thriller Kaminey fame. Doma's Inn is the Bifurcation point for one path leading through thick oak while the other through scented pine forest only to unite at Chaar-Dukan. Chaar-dukan is named so after the four (Chaar) shops (Dukan) which stands next to the St. Pauls' or the Kellogs' Church where the parents of legendary Sir Jim Corbett entered into holy matrimony. Chaar-Dukan is a really laidback joint where the USP is hot and tempting cheese omelets, pizzas, pastas and macaronis, noodles, pancakes and juices and aromatic tea and coffee, all under the lazy lukewarm sun and naughty crispy breeze.

KASHMIR CORNER

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Established in the year 1951 by late Shri Om Prakash Sethi, the Kashmir Corner is one treasure hub consisting of intricate Kashmiri handwork done with patience on Pashmina and Jamawar. The Kashmir Corner is cosily nestled in 'The Exchange' building where Shri Tilak Raj Sethi, son of late Shri Om Prakash Sethi, would welcome you in his distinctively impressive voice. The warmth inside the showroom generated both by the gesture of the host and the feel of the fabric, would surely unwind your senses. The involved Kashmiri artwork would lead you to confusion as in what to choose out of a vast range but the competent staff of M. Sethi would help you finalise what suites you the best. The fineries comprise of Shawls, stoles and dress materials and the clients include some of the known names around the globe. Notably, the elites of Dehradun are the regular customers of the Kashmir Corner. A mere visit would certainly prove fruitful.

KULRI BAZAAR

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Stretching from the State Bank of India through the erstwhile Picture palace, Kulri bazaar is the biggest and the most happening hub in the town with international brands showrooms and pizza and coffee joints lined up next to each other yet amidst some structures of the British times. The State Bank building itself is an impressive colonial architectural marvel which used to be the Himalayan Hotel that had hosted prominent personalities of the bygone times such as Frederick 'Pahari' Wilson and Sir John Lang. The exchange building is another such masterpiece where a printing press published journals of those times. The Cambridge Book Depot is where Padamshree Ruskin Bond visits every Saturday evening to interact with his fans and admirers. Surrounded by the numerous international coffee and pizza joints stand two restaurants managed by local Tibetan families serving authentic delicious Tibetan, Chinese and Thai cuisines.

Other magnets in the Kulri bazaar includes antiques and souvenir shops, drapers, Kashmiri garment showrooms, international fashion and sports brands showrooms, tattoo, body piercing studios and cyber cafes, chocolate-muffin-softies-brownies cafes, coffee-south Indian Cuisine, paani puri-tikki chat outlets, delicious hams and sausages, mouth watering non-vegetarian tandoory and rolls, two liquor and wine vends and two bars out of which one is famous for its tempting sizzlers and live music. The night in Kulri Bazaar is not complete without the choice of cigar, aromatic paan or hot gulab jamun or cold ras malai which can be savoured at the square where one path leads to The Rink. The Rink was and still is one of the most peculiar wooden floors roller skating Rinks in the entire country. The fever of skating in India got ignited from the Rink only which used to be the biggest skating Rink of those times. The Rink hosted the venue of numerous national and international skating championship both pre and post Independence. The Picture Palace, which was called the Electric Picture Palace pre-Independence, was the first ever Picture there of the country which was run with electricity. The theatres were usually run with petromax those days. Just beneath the Picture Palace was the Jubilee Cinema and together both the theatres were the crowd puller during the 1970s and 1980s. Another theatre, La-Anjuman, stood right next to the Roxy building near The Rink. The route which leads through Picture palace till Landour bazaar is lined with shops belonging to the Bhotia community of Mussoorie who sell woollens, garments and silver jewellery.

JHULAGHAR MARKET

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As the name rightly suggests, Jhulaghar is the centre for fun and merry with a manually operated giant wheel and the cable car as the prime attraction. The acrobatic stunts performed by young lads spinning the giant wheel are awe inspiring. Jhulaghar is the true Chaupati of Mussoorie where tongue tingling Bhel-puri , sev-puri, tikki-chat, idli-dosa, chhole-bhature, rajma-chawal, kadi-chawal and coffee-cold drinks can be savoured. Jhulaghar is the terminal point, underneath the gorgeous Weeping Willow tree, for the cycle rickshaw coming from the Library bazaar. A bifurcation of roads leads through the upper and lower slopes of the ridge only to unite again near the State Bank of India. The lower slope is lined with stalls selling eatables and garments, the cable car station, the tourist information office, ready to order school uniform shops, railway out agency and general merchants.

The Allahabad bank premise on the lower slope is gardened with exotic flowering plants including the fragrant Magnolia. The upper catchment of Jhulaghar is flanked with shops of woollens, woodwork, antiques, tours and travel services, temptingly large samosa and gulab jamun, video games and a multi-racial version of the Tibetan market. The telephone exchange and the century old Grand Post Office demark the Jhulaghar market. Sadly though, the Jhulaghar hub has witnessed the mass killing of innocent locals by the Uttar Pradesh policemen on 2nd September 1994 during a protest for the demand of a separate Uttarakhand state. The area has been named as Shaheed Sthal (martyr ground) where a memorial stands.

GARHWAL TERRACE LANE

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A few meters ahead of the Tibetan market on the Mall Road lays the tiny market flanked with very few shops on either side of the road selling fashion garments, woollens, kashmiri garments, leather goods, paintings, pashmina, rugs and semi precious stones. The cosy little market is one preferred destination among the locals and the tourists alike for steamy coffee and Maggie, flavoured ice cream softies and authentic Tibetan and Chinese cuisines. The shop owners and the workers coexist harmoniously yet belonging to Kashmir, Garhwal, Kumoun, Jaunpur, Punjab, Gujrat, and Bihar. This beautiful stretch of the market is guarded on both ends by the Jakranda trees which bear gorgeous purple flowers during summer. The hill side of this area is a visual delight during monsoon with plenty of multicolour Daheliya flowers in bloom. The valley side on the other hand is an awe inspiring sight in itself with the glittering enormous Doon valley in the night and the phenomenal Winterline during winter.

The vast Garhwal Terrace, which is the Property of the Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam Hotel, is the vantage point for the valley sight where tourists get themselves photographed. The eastern end of the Garhwal Terrace lane leads to a cluster of a few more shops and a revolving restaurant. Further ahead are the judiciary and the Police Station which are located next to the aquariums where both fresh water and marine fishes are the attraction. The historical Hakman's Hotel opposite the aquariums has witnessed grand Ball and Cabaret evenings of the colonial times. The same point leads to the Gun Hill and the walk for Avalon top through the Christ Church.

TIBETAN MARKET

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After the Chinese occupation of Tibet in the year 1959, the Tibetans migrated to the hills of north India. His Holiness the Dalai Lama along with a number of his natives was received at the Monastery at the Katesar Castle premises who later got settled in the Happy Valley area. The Central government of India opened a school in Happy Valley itself for the children of the Tibetan folks. Gradually the Tibetan Homes Foundation was established and the Tibetan Homes School was also founded nearby. Most of the Tibetans are business people ever since the Silk route trade times. To date the Tibetan business community excel as woollen and hosiery marketers an

d the Nagar Paalika Parishad has provided them lanes where their stalls are lined up. The Christ Church lane is one Tibetan market while the other is a few meters ahead on a lane beside the Mall Road near the Garhwal Terrace Lane.

The Tibetan market is one sure place for good bargain where the jolly natured Tibetans can be seen sipping tea or munching delicious Samosa and momos which are supplied by special Tibetan market vendors. A quick bite while strolling in the market would be an experience.

Library bazaar, Mussoorie

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Library Bazaar, Mussoorie

Library bazaar is one of the prime bus and taxi terminal points to enter the township of Mussoorie. Library bazaar, locally known as Kitaab Ghar, is called so after the 1843 established library which happens to be the hub of the area. The architectural magnificence library building is one fine and well standing reminder of the colonial times when the building housed the famous Savoy Bakery on the ground floor and one of the first few libraries of the country above it. The world famous Savoy Hotel, which earlier served as the Maddock School, was the prime nucleus of the vicinity. The Criterion building next to the library housed the famous Criterion bar the square in front of which has witnessed the romance and gaiety of the British era. The band stand opposite to these buildings hosted a live band which ensured some memorable evenings in the Queen of the Hills.

Later the band stand canopy was shifted to the Camel's Back Road and a new one was erected which was donated by the Maharaja of Kapurthala whose impressive chateau stands on the ridge above the Savoy Hotel. Another historical wonder at the Library square is the iron pole which fetched electricity from the second earliest hydroelectricity unit (Galogi Power House on the Bhatta Fall stream) in the entire country, precisely on 24 may 1905. After independence, the Library square was renamed Gandhi Chowk with a giant gate Gandhi Dwar as its entrance. The square is the junction for the roads leading to the Vincent Hill, to Company Gardens and Kempty Falls and to the Mall Road. The historical Library Still exists and caters to members only while the ground alley is lined up with grocery and general stores, toiletries and cosmetic boutiques, hosiery outlets and some tingling bakery vends. The extension of the Library market leads inside the Mall Road through the erstwhile Vasu theatre and roping in general merchants, coffee and sandwich joints, hotels and restaurants and the much sought after tempting chai-samosa and aromatic milk-jalebi sweet shops. The approximate 500 meters vicinity of the Library bazaar is harmoniously guarded on four corners by the Laxmi Narayan temple, Masjid Amania, Gurudwara Singh Sabha and the Christ Church which happens to be one of the oldest of churches of north India. The eastern end of the Library bazaar leads through the entrance of the Camel's back road which is one secluded route for leisure walks and horse rides on the north face of the Mussoorie ridge that provides a commanding view of the greater Himalayan range and the mystic Jaunpur valley. The historical canopy on the Camel's Back Road is an ideal vantage point which enables a vast panorama of tiny hamlets of Jaunpur dissected by the calmly flowing Aglaar River. The cozy canteen of the Bhardwajs at the canopy ensures a tempting yet lazy hangout right from the lively sunrise through the romantic sunset sights.

Around Mussoorie : KALSI

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Altitude : 780m

Population : ?

STD code : 0135

Distance from Delhi: 49 km from Dehradun, 288 km from Delhi.

Kalsi is one of the three blocks of the Jaunsaar-Baawar tribal region of the Dehradun district, the other two being Chakrata and Tiuni. Kalsi is a mesmerizing entry zone to the Jaunsaar-Baawar tribal belt and is calmly located on the confluence of the Yamuna and the Tons rivers which outburst from the mountains to the plains. Owing to its social customs and rituals the Jaunsaar-Baawar had long remained alienated as the region was considered backward. Kalsi was just a tiny hamlet only until an Englishman Mr. Forrest discovered an Ashokan rock edict in the year 1860. The 10 feet high, 10 ft long and 8 ft wide quartz boulder is one of the furthest known of the Ashoka’s dominion out the his kingdom. The battle of Kalinga shook the great Ashoka to his roots and ever since then he adapted the path of non-violence pertaining to the ways of Buddhism. The edict is inscribed in Brahmi and Prakrit saying about practicing non-violence. An outline of an elephant depicts Buddha’s descend from the Tushita heaven with the word gajatam written between its legs. The names of five Greek kings namely Antiochus, Ptolemy, Antigonus, Magus and Alexander are inscribed on the rock to help date the edict. The writing was done around 253 BC. Kalsi acts as a buffer zone between the Uttarakhand and Himachal mountains.

Adventure: Kalsi is gifted with pristine green locales and a vast valley intersected by the Yamuna and Tons which is one of its greatest tributaries. Walks around Kalsi, like that of Katta Pathar, enable a venture through rivers and boulders. Angling of Mahseer can be fun for which prior permission has to be taken from the Snow Lion Estate. Cycling is heavenly on the tranquil wide roads around Kalsi which dissect at some places the jungle of silver oak on one side and sal on the other.

Around Kalsi:

• Vikasnagar: Once a tiny hamlet Vikasnagar today is one of the fastest developing towns of Uttarakhand yet retaining its cultural grandeur and scenic locales. At only a distance of 10 km from Kalsi, Vikasnagar lies on one of the very fertile deposition of the Yamuna and Tons river and the vegetation is distinctively rich. The potato, beans, cereals and ginger of the Vikasnagar suburbs are always in high demand. The Bazaar is cloaking into an urban getup yet it is the place where traditional items like the bronze and brass drums and trumpets are in plenty for sale.

• Asan Barrage: The region that follows towards the west of Dehradun is known as Pachhuwa Doon. The road that leads to Paonta Sahib comes across a masterpiece of engineering where the Tons river is channeled through a tunnel inside a hill to feed the Kulhal power house. The barrage thus created has given way to a lake which inhabits avifauna like ducks, kingfisher, koot, drongo. Flocks of migratory birds visit the lake in winter making it a haven for bird watchers and naturalists. The Asan barrage is a tranquil picnic spot with a Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) rest house for those who intend to stay over for some time.

• Dakpathar: One of the pioneering schemes of modernization after independence, the Dakpathar hydroelectricity barrage is harvesting the waters of the Yamuna river. The canal nourishes the powerhouses at Khodri (120MW), Dhalipur (50MW), Dhakrani (33.75 MW) and Kulhal (30MW). The barrage is also a paradise for bird watchers and the waterways are being sighted as ideal for water sports.

• Paonta Sahib: On the verge of the Uttarakhand, Himachal Pradesh and Harayana border, Paonta Saahib is a small town where the tenth Sikh Guru, Guru Govind Singh was sent after his father Guru Teg Bahadur was beheaded by Aurangzeb. Guru Govind Singh spent a good span of time in Paonta Sahib hatching his vengeance for Aurangzeb by excelling in the skills of warfare. There are numerous Gurudwaras at Paonta Sahib which are related to the tenth Guru’s tryst with time and situation. Gurudwara Bhangani Sahib symbolizes Guru Govind Singh’s first battle where he defeated Raja Fateh Shah. Gurudwara Tirgarh Sahib is perched on a hilltop fro where the Guru pierced fierce arrows at the enemies. Gurudwara Shergarh Sahib is the place where Guru Govind Singh beheaded a fierce man-eater tiger with a single swing of his sword. There are numerous articles of the Guru’s weapons and other belongings at the Gurudwara.

• Timli Pass: On the route from Asan barrage back to Kalsi lays the serene Timli pass which was used by the British troops to aid Major General Ochterlony in the battle against the gallant Gurkha General Amar Singh Thapa’s army in their bid to posses the Doon Valley.

Educational Institutes in Mussoorie

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Mussoorie has the pride for being one of the best educational hub in the entire country. The Maddock School, which was later transformed into the famous Savoy hotel, was one of the first few schools in the country.

• The Woodstock School is an IB school located on the Mussoorie-Tehri Highway.

• The St. Georges College for boys stands secluded at the impressive Manor House. The young Maharaja Duleep Singh of Patiala was once kept in exile in the Manor House.

• Wynberg Allen School lies on an isolated slope on the same ridge as the St. Gorges College.

• A venture on the Northern Railways, the Oak Grove School was established as the first ever concept of the Railways, hill station and a public school. The 1888 made School building has been listed for the 2011 status of The World Heritage site by UNESCO.

• Mussoorie Public School is located right in the heart of the town yet is isolated from it as it is smartly located behind a hill over the mall road.

• St. Clare's School is situated on the Landour road and is basically for junior classes.

• Mussoorie Girls and boys School is situated at the entrance of the Camel's Back Road beside the famous Rink Hall.

• Convent of Jesus and Mary Hampton Court also lies in the heart of the town yet isolated from it. This co-ed junior School is located on the slopes of the rope way station.

• Mussoorie Modern School is perched on a hill top on the western side away from the town.

• Convent of Jesus and Mary Waverly was established in the year 1845 for the girls of the British officers. One of the oldest Schools of Mussoorie, Waverly stands on and isolated hilltop opposite of the Mussoorie Modern School.

• Guru Nanak Fifth Centenary school Shangri-la stands almost in the wilderness of the outskirts of Mussoorie on the Haathipaon road.

• Guru Nanak Fifth centenary School Vincent Hill was known as the Vincent Hill School during the British times. This boy's school is perched on a cliff on the slopes of the Baroda Estate and is completely isolated from habitation.

• Manav Bhaarti International School stands between the Vincent Hill and the Shangri-la Schools.

• Central School for Tibetans was opened in Happy Valley in the year 1961 by the Central Government for the children of the Tibetan refugees who migrated to the Hills of India after the Chinese occupation of their land.

• Tibetan Homes School is another educational institute for the Tibetan children. This co-ed school in the Happy Valley is managed by the Tibetan Homes Foundation which is a body with a number of foreign patrons.

• Mussoorie International School is one premier institution for girls which is the preference is most of the NRI parents. The school is ideally located in the wilderness around the famous polo ground.

• Kendriya Vidhyalay is another government school with in the vicinity of the polo ground.

• Katesar Castle School is housed within the Katesar Castle and temple complex which is a private concern of the family of the Talukdaar of Katesar in the Sitapur district of Uttar Pradesh. Neelambari Devi, the grand daughter-in-law of the Talukdar herself administers this junior school.

• Ghananand Government Inter College is located at Kingcraig on the Dehradun-Mussoorie highway, this co-ed school ensures education to a major section of children in Mussoorie and the nearby villages.

• Mussoorie Girls Inter College supports education to a large section of the girls of Mussoorie and the nearby villages. This school is peacefully located on the slope of the ridge of the Clock tower and borders the Dehradun-Mussoorie highway.

• R. N. Bhargava Inter College for boys lies on a peaceful location close to the Mussoorie Girls Inter College.

• Sanatan Dharm Girls Inter College is a foundation of the Sanatan Dharm Sabha Mussoorie. This school lies over a hill top in the Landour Bazaar area and supports education to a large number of girls of the town and the nearby villages.

• The Mussoorie Management Institute has come up as a boon for the girls of Mussoorie and around. The only Institute in town for girls encircles courses for B. Ed and BBA enthusiasts providing day and boarding facilities.

• Lal Bahadur Shashtri National Academy of Administration is the premier Institution in the country where the officer trainees of the civil services gets trained. The pass outs of this Institution join the IAS, IPS and the IFS.

• Indo-Tibetan Border Police Academy is located on the Dehradun-Mussoorie.

• The Institute of Technology Management is one wing of the ministry of defense, government of India, perched atop the Lal Tibba hill.

Places of Tourist Interest

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• Walks: Mussoorie is one preferred destination for strolls through the mall road, the tranquil pathways through old colonial building and nature walks through thick wooded stretches.

• Landour-Sister Bazaar : The Landour area is the oldest settlement in the entire township and still preserves the tranquility of the bygone colonial times. The uphill walk towards Landour begins from the eastern end of the Mall road. The Clock Tower point is where from where the Landour Bazaar exceeds till the Gurudwara Chowk. During the British times the same stretch was known as Parade Lane as the British Army troops marched on it. Later a market evolved there which was named as Shivaji Market. The former Clock Tower had a history of its own the gong of which was audible till Rajpur as claim some elders. The Castle Hill is the estate where Maharani Jinda Kaur of Patiala was kept in exile. Now the estate belongs to the Survey of India. The numerous Dosa joints opposite to the Castle Hill gate are favorite hang outs amongst youngsters of the town who frequent there for mouth watering South Indian cuisines. Another land mark in the Landour Bazaar is the Kohinoor Building which has completed more than hundred years of existence. The Survey Chowk is lined with shops famous for delicious sweets and Namkeens. The Landour Bazaar is also famous for the shops where exclusive Pahaari silver jewelry is made to order.

• The Mall Road: stretched over a distance of 4 km, the Mall road beats through the very heart of the town on the south face of the hillside providing a commanding panorama of the vast Doon Valley which appears as a dream during the day and a real heaven in night. Most of the hotels, restaurant, bars, showrooms, handicrafts and souvenir shops lie on the Mall road.

• Gun Hill / Rope Way: The gun hill is the highest point in the Mall road which can be reached by a cable car or after a short trek from Jhulaghar. Gun hill is called so because during the British times a gun was fired from the top exactly at noon to enable people to set their watches. Today lots of souvenir shops and eating joints stand on the huge water reservoir tank which provides an excellent view of the mighty Himalayas and the enticing Doon Valley. A must do at gun hill has always been getting photographed in the local pahaari attire.

• Kempty Falls: A natural waterfall cascading from the height of over 100 meters, the Kempty Falls is one major tourist attraction which can be reached after a 14 km enchanting drive through the hamlets of Jaunpur tribal area on the Yamunotri highway. The Kempty falls remains thronged with tourists as the region encircles numerous natural pools and artificial lakes, fun slides, a rope way and tempting eating joints.

• Company Garden: The soothing climate of the Queen of the Hills prompted Dr. King of the Royal Botanical Garden Calcutta, Dr. Royale of the Saharanpore Botanical Garden and General Biddulf of the Bengal Engineers to establish a branch of the gardens in Mussoorie and the plan was executed in the year 1842 as Company Garden. Today the Company Garden is managed by the Garden Welfare Association as a tie-up with the Nagar Paalika Parishad Mussoorie under the Public Private Partnership scheme. The Company Garden is an ideal spacious zone for a picnic amidst the environs which is the coldest in the entire township. The garden houses a healthy accumulation of exotic flowers and the rare Gingko Biloba trees (Gingko Biloba is a living fossil). Fun rides, artificial lakes, cascades and ponds beside the alluring eating joints make it a trip worthwhile.

• Camel's Back Road: Most of the habitation and the Mall road fall on the south face of the Mussoorie ridge where as the north face is comparatively less populated. The Camel's Back road is rather a hushed zone primarily meant for walks and horse rides. The serpentine road provides an awesome view of the great Himalayas and the hamlets of Jaunpur tribal belt. The road enables a view of a natural rock formation which resembles like a sitting camel, hence the name. An old cemetery on the deodar slopes of the road is the resting ground of great personalities like Sir Henry Bohle, Sir John Mackinnon and Sir John Lang. The Hawa Ghar on the road was imported from England and was reassembled here. According to a gossip, the Hawa Ghar got to be known as scandal point when a few young officers of the British army were caught making merry with the wives of their seniors. The humble witness of the bygone times still stands strong at on of the most scenic turns of the road.

• Lal Tibba / Chaar Dukaan / Sister Bazaar: The evening sun of autumn and winter kiss the forehead of the Queen of the Hills and she blushes red. Lal Tibba is the highest hill in the town which turns into the hues of red when the evening sun of winter falls on it. Highly recommended for walk, the cantonment area encompasses a circular pathway which begins from St. Paul Church at Chaar Dukaan. It is a laidback slumbering place with only four shops in a row which serves delicious noodles, omlettes, pizzas and hot and cold beverages. The circular path goes through Childer's lodge where a powerful binocular enables the best view of the great Himalayas. A canteen at the ticket counter makes it a cozy little joint. An old cemetery amidst the scented deodar forest leads through the Sister Bazaar where the sisters of the Landour Sanitarium once lived. Today, the tiny bazaar is known all over for some of the best verities of cottage cheese.

• Happy Valley / Tibetan Monastry: The Happy Valley, as the name suggests, was a place for fun and gaiety during the British period with the famous Charlieville hotel as the prime hub. The Happy Valley Club was one of the most happening dos of those times. Today, the fantastic buildings and the vicinity belongs to the Lal Bahadur Shashtri National Academy of Administration. The Valley is also the home to the Tibetans who have established an elaborated gompa (Buddha temple) and a chorten (stupa) on the Dalai Hill which becomes prominent with hundreds of colorful tharchuk (praying flags). Highly recommended for walk.

• Lake Mist: A secluded water resort on the stream that forms the Kempty Falls is managed by a private concern. Lake mist is 8 km from the town on the Yamunotri highway. The well maintained rooms and restaurant makes it a very private place to holiday beside fresh water stream.

• Bhatta Falls: A natural stream, near the Bhatta Village on the Dehradun-Mussoorie highway, gushes down from a height of 30 meters. Unlike the Kempty Falls, the Bhatta Falls is less explored and hence is less polluted. The fall cascades through the prestigious Galogi Power house which has to its credit of being the second pioneer hydro-electricity plant of the country after Mysore. The isolated fall and the numerous natural pools on the streams make it a very private affair.

• Jharipaani Falls: An introvert waterfall in the wilderness, Jharipaani Falls remains absolutely isolated and very rarely visited. A narrow track through the thick jungle, that adds to the whole adventure, leads to this 30 meters cascade. The peculiar location of the fall on a curvey slope makes it invincible till the last step at its base, all the while the fall remains audible yet invisible. The hundred steps on the eastern side of the cliff were laid during the British times for connection of the pipelines and are elements of adventure at the site. Jharipaani is a small habitation near the St. Georges College from where a narrow track elopes into the forest of the foothills of the Mysterious Pari Tibba.

• Pari Tibba: Pari Tibba, commonly known as Aanchari daanda in Uttarakhand, is a very common belief in the Himalayan state where certain hilltops are said to be the abode of Aanchari or pari meaning fairy. These hilltops are often secluded from the general habitation and are distinctively scenically located. The Pari Tibba of Mussoorie is an isolated hilltop on an eastwardly ridge of the town which stretches from the Woodstock School in the North till the Jharipaani falls in the south. People of the nearby villages believe the existence of fairies on the hill. They say that the fairies bathe in the secretly located Jharipaani falls and move around the entire hillside. The ridge, when seen from the Barlowganj area, appears like a reclining lady which also supports the logic behind the name. However, a day hike through the deodar forest is worth a visit.

• Dhanolti Forest: Dhanolti (2258 m) is famous for its pristine deodar forest which can be reached after a 26 km drive eastwards from Mussoorie. The road leads towards the town of Chamba through the rich fruit belt of the region with a constant view of the lofty Himalayas. Tiny hamlets through the route make it a laidback approach towards the serene deodar hub where inns, restaurants, camp sites and pony rides through the cool deodar breeze makes it a memorable visit. The Mussoorie Forest Division has encircled an eco-park at Dhanolti ridge where handicrafts of Garhwal and Kumaon are available. The Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam (GMVN) guest house and the Forest Department Tourist Rest House (TRH) are scenically located.

• Surkanda Devi Temple: Surkanda Devi temple is majestically situated atop 2903 meters which is also the highest point in the entire region. Surkanda Devi is an incarnation of Goddess Shakti who is revered by the locals as the deity of optimum blessings. The temple can be reached after a trek of approx a kilometer from Kaddukhal which is 32 km from Mussoorie on the Chamba highway. Numerous shops with subjects of offering and a number of eating joints throng the base of the climb. The temple site enables an awesome panorama of the great Himalayas towards north and the vast valley towards the south. Navaratra attracts a number of devotees from near and far towards the ever blessing Surkanda Devi.

• Chamba: beautifully located on the junction of the roads to Mussoorie, Rishikesh and New Tehri, Chamba is a small town with a pace of its own. Chamba has its mention in numerous Garhwali and Jaunpuri folk songs. The fruit and vegetable belt of Chamba forms the backbone of the economy of the town. The small town of Chamba has the pride of being the home of martyr Gabar Singh Negi of the Garhwal Rifles.

• Sir George Everest House: The Queen of the Hills has the honor of being the residence and office of Sir George Everest who lived in the Park Estate near Haathipaon where the Headquarters of the Great Royal Trigonometrical Survey of India was shifted from Dehradun. Sir Everest was here as one of the Surveyor Generals and contributed the most to the world of trigonometry staying at the Park Estate where he had an observatory an a natural 9 holes golf coarse. The vast flat grassland provides an excellent view of the great Himalayas in the north and the vast stretch of the Doon Valley in the South. The erstwhile bungalow of Sir Everest stand perched on a cliff which also happens to be an echo-point. The Estate and the vicinity is on of the most sought after location among film makers.

• Benog Birds Sanctuary/Jwala ji temple: The Benog Sanctuary covers the forest of the western ridge of Mussoorie and happens to be the area where the extinct mountain quail was last seen during the 1970s. The thick oak jungles inhabits a healthy population of birds along with leopards, Himalayan black bear, barking deer, giant squirrels, rabbits, pheasants and wild rodents. The impressive Benog hilltop is perched by Goddess Jwalaji temple where an annual fair is held during autumn. The hilltop also provides magnificent view of the great Himalayas, the Mussoorie township, and the Yamuna river valley towards north and the Doon Valley in the south. The healthy population of avifauna in the forest makes an ideal place for bird watching.

• Bhadraaj Temple and Forest: Bhadraaj Devta is the prime deity of the region that encircles Jaunpur-Jaunsaar belt which also includes Mussoorie. An ancient temple of the deity is situated on a secluded meadow top, some 8 km westwards from the town of Mussoorie. The Bhadraaj temple is the border of the Mussoorie jurisdiction where an annual two day fair is held during 16th and 17th of August. The fair in which milk is offered to Bhadraaj Devta attracts thousands of devotees from near and far. A stone outside the temple bear formal inscriptions in English and Arabic which suggests about the early visitors of the place. The dirt track to Bhadraaj temple goes through scenic villages, vast fields and thick forest of oak and rhododendron which inhabits a healthy population of leopards, Himalayan black bear, barking deer, giant squirrels, rabbits, pheasants and wild rodents.

• Yamuna Bridge: 26 km westwards of the town on the Yamunotri highway fresh and crystal clear Yamuna River gushes her way through a wide valley. The route goes through some of the breathtaking landscapes dotted with lively villages, rich fields and virgin wilderness. An iron bridge over the Yamuna connects the Tehri district with the Dehradun district. The area around the bridge is adorned with tiny wooden huts which serve as the eating joints for the commuters. Fresh fish from the Yamuna is a regular and in demand feast. Angling can be enjoyed with a prior permission from the DFO Mussoorie. A few adventure agencies provide rafting on the gradually flowing Yamuna.

• Naag Tibba: One of the highest peaks in the entire region of the Jaunpur block including Mussoorie is Naag Tibba. The thick concentration of oak, deodar and rhododendron inhabits a healthy population of flora and fauna and a sight of leopard, the Himalayan black bear and wild boar is very common. The picturesque meadow below the Naag Tibba summit houses an ancient Naag Devta temple in the wilderness thus got the name. People of the nearby villages had been coming to the shrine to offer their first harvest to the Naag Devta who is one of the prime deities of the region. A pit beside the temple always overflows with water amazingly at such a height. The summit (10,000 ft.), locally known as Jhandi, is reached after a steep climb through dense forest which leads to a small meadow on the top where a deodar pole is erected on which the villager tie pieces of sanctified cloths, hence called Jhandi. The Jhandi top provides magnificent view of the mighty Himalayas. The rich pasture land of Naag Tibba is also the summer grazing ground for the Van Gujjar (nomadic Herdsmen) and their thatch shelter can be used for night halt. The ruins of the British Banglow where German mountaineer Heinrich Harrer of the Seven Years in Tibet fame halted after his escape from the prisoners of war camp in Dehradun.

• Lakhamandal: An ASI protected Shiva temple 60 km from Mussoorie on the Yamunotri highway is an interesting subject for the archaeologists and anthropologists. This 5000 year old site is believed to have been built by the Pandavas of the epic Mahabharat which was later rebuilt by princess Ishwara of Singhpura near Jullundhar. The temple and the village are rich with ancient statutes and articles which are still being excavated from inside the earth. Believers also link this place with the Lakhshagriha conspiracy of the epic Mahabharata.

MUSSOORIE THE QUEEN OF THE HILLS

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A beautiful view of Mussoorie

Area : 64.25 sq. km.

Altitude : 2005.5 meters above sea level

Population : 29,319 approx (according to 2001 census)

STD code : 0135

Climate : Summer- Maximum- 23* C

Minimum - 10* C

Winter - Maximum- 10* C

Minimum - 1* C

Rain – 180 cm

Accessibility : Air- The nearest airport is Jolly grant which is 24 km from Dehradun.

Rail-The nearest railway station is Dehradun which is 34 km.

Distance from Delhi : 280 km NH 58.

A beautiful view of Mussoorie

The heavenly bliss which is known as the Queen of the Hills was once a lush forest comprising of oak, rhododendron and deodar where the people of Bhatta and Kyarkuli villages grazed their cattle. One particular Mansoor shrub (cororiana nepalensis) grew in abundance hence the villagers named the ridge as Mansuri. There were about seven flat lands on which cattle sheds of the villagers existed and the narrow Surkanda-Bhadraaj pilgrimage route dissected the ridge. The same track, which is said to be once overflowed by six natural springs, is the present Mall Road. The Bhatta and Kyarkuli villages still exist as gateways on the Dehradun-Mussoorie highway. It was during the year 1826 that Captain Frederick Young of the Sirmour Battalion ventured out on a horse from Rajpur into the Mansuri ridge. As the region was rich in exotic flora and fauna, Captain Young, along with Sir F.J. Shore, built a shooting box around the Camel's Back Road area. Later, Captain Young made the first residence in Mansuri which he named Mullingaar after his county in Ireland. The pleasing climate of the ridge, which bear a resemblance very much to that of Irish and Scottish highlands, was chosen as best for a healthy sojourn and subsequently, the Landour Sanitarium was established. The talks about the newly found hill resort soon got spread to the farthest and many more Brits, that included officers of the East India Company, renowned writers, artists and entrepreneurs followed suit resulting into the formation of Landour and Mussoorie township. Eventually Mansuri of the local Jaunpuris became a haven for pleasure and gaiety with the Queen of the Hills as its new identity. The fun and galore that enthralled the days and nights of Mussoorie eventually lured the princes and the nawabs of the Indian states who left no stone unturned to acquire striking locations where they got built their impressive chateaus and bungalows which still exists in and around the town. The Queen of the Hills stretches majestically east-westwards overlooked by the Greater Himalayas in the north and cradled by the vast Doon Valley in the south and thus forming a buffer zone between the ultra modern life of the plains and the tribal belt of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar. Gradually, the Hillman from the villages of neighboring Garhwal, business community from the plains and the Gorkhali people began immigrating in pursuit of commercial opportunities. After the Chinese occupation of Tibet in the year 1959 a number of Tibetans got settled in the Happy Valley area turning Mussoorie into a harmonious culmination of a unique social setup. However, the very essence of the Queen of the Hills is loaded with the romance and charm of the colonial times which still beckons through its tranquility.