My Climbing Life

Chasing Classics

2014-01-27T08:17:00.000-08:00

Episode 4 of "Confessions of a Kid Crusher" is now live on EpicTV Adventure!!! In this one I send Lethal Design V12 (8A+) in Red Rock with Brooke & Shawn Raboutou... Check it out and share it...

"Confessions of a Kid Crusher"

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Mirko Caballero on Luminance V9 (7C) - Christmas 2013 | Photo: Killko Caballero

Every climber has to find his own personal way to psych and happiness. For some it's big wall trad climbing in Yosemite, and for others it might be hard bouldering in Hueco Tanks.

For me bouldering and sport climbing have always seemed to be the purest forms of the sport. The goal is just pure difficulty and endurance, and to push the limits of your own ability farther and farther.

I tried a little big wall climbing last spring, but I must admit that I don’t get as psyched on it. Don’t get me wrong, standing atop a big wall is amazing, but the journey feels kind of boring to me… My brother thinks that might change with time. He used to hate it, but now he multi-pitch climbs in Yosemite whenever he can…

The Astroman - Yosemite Valley | Photo: Jim Herson

I did climb a few Yosemite Big Wall Classics with Jim Herson, including The Rostrum, Astroman, and The Steck-Salathé, and last June we made an attempt at The Nose in a Day (NIAD), but we had to bail half-way up as it was getting too hot. I might give it another go sometime...

I guess I might also get psyched on the Dawn Wall some day… :p

I love to immerse myself in harder and harder projects all the time, however usually not just any hard climb. There is a certain connection formed when I complete big classic climbs. Almost as if I am connecting with all the history lying deep within the line. Don't get me wrong, not every route or problem I try is a classic, but I tend to get attracted to them. It's a refreshing feeling to take a step back and enjoy climbing classics of any grade. Many of us tend to get sucked into projects and only work on one problem until it’s finished. My Dad constantly encourages me to move away from projects, and just go and try new lines. I used to get annoyed by that, but over the past few years I’ve learned to enjoy just trying to onsight or flash new lines.

Nevertheless, I still sometime get hopelessly hooked on a project, and it can get extremely frustrating. There is a moment in the process of projecting where accepting failure sometimes appears to be the most appropriate decision. However, when you send, all is good, but for how long? The sense of accomplishment after completing a project generally only lasts a few days maybe a week at most. For some reason though, after completing a known classic, I seem to feel this sense of accomplishment for much longer. I look back and try to imagine what it was like to find these incredible lines and being the first one to climb them, and then watching on as more and more people try and send the line. After climbing these lines I feel connected to the people who came before me, and the historical significance that they might have.

Evilution

Evilution Direct V11 (8A) | Photo: Killko Caballero

When I first saw the Evilution boulder, I couldn’t believe my eyes. I was baffled by its immensity and beauty. Although I was only 7 or 8 years old, I had already begun to read up on some of its history. For instance when Jason Kehl did the first ascent, and when Tony Lamiche stopped by on the Petzl Roc Trip and established a slightly more direct finish. Every year I came back with more and more knowledge of its history, and each time I was feeling a little stronger. At first climbing Evilution seemed crazy and impossible, but as I progressed I started to believe that I could do it some day, and soon enough, I made it a lifetime goal to climb Evilution to the top, and no matter what, in my mind I knew I would do it!

This fall I came to Bishop finally ready to really give it a go. The first day, I struggled a lot with the first move. I came back another day and managed to stick it and start to figure out the rest of the moves. The second time I stuck the first move, I managed to link the boulder problem to the lip. I had just sent Evilution to the Lip V10 (7c+), but there was no question in my mind… I had to top it out!!!

On top of the World!!! | Photo: Killko Caballero

A few days later I came back prepared with a rope and rapped down to check out the top moves. Soon it became apparent that it was extremely feasible. I quickly figured out most moves except one, the one just above the lip. After a few more tries the move went, and I was psyched! I lowered off and rested.

That evening I mustered a bunch of people and pads to try it. On my first try I was a bit nervous and fell on the first move, but I didn’t let it bother me. I took my shoes off and calmed down. When I felt ready I got back on and stuck the first move, in no time I was at the lip again, I rested and took deep breaths as I set my heel in preparation for the move over the lip. I finally felt ready and went for it. I stuck it! I took a deep breath and proceeded on through the moves. I slowly continued climbing until I was one move away, only 6 inches from the finish jug. I brought my left foot up very high and 1...2...3... I went for the move and latched onto the hold!!! I calmed down and relaxed and slowly made my way up the remaining 30 feet slab. When I got to the top I was filled with a feeling of total relief and accomplishment... I felt as if I was on top of the world!

Luminance V9 (7C) | Photo: Killko Caballero

Haroun and the Sea of Stories V9 (7C) | Photo: Killko Caballero

Many Buttermilk classics are highballs, and you must really consider the factors and make sure it's really worth it. Climbing a highball is not just about physical and technical ability. You have to be 100% mentally focused and deliberate. You can’t let doubt and fear creep into your head, or you’re done… That made Evilution all the more meaningful for me. Managing to send Evilution Direct being just 12 years old was incredibly exhilarating!!! I honestly thought it would take a few more years.

Saigon Direct V9 (7C) | Photo: Killko Caballero

I have ticked off a few other highball classics in the Buttermilks including Luminance, Footprints, Saigon Direct, the Southwest Arête, Haroun and the Sea of Stories, Suspended in Silence, and Jedi Mind Tricks. For me all of these were entirely worth it, amazing lines, filled with incredible history. There are many others that I’ve chosen not to try. Mostly because they don’t appeal to me, or sometime because they’re just flat out of my comfort zone. I'm not really interested in highballs for the sake of it, but Bishop is highball country, and I really wanted to do some of the classic ones there!

Scarface

Scarface 5.14a (8b+) | Photo: Killko Caballero

Whenever I venture to new areas my first choice in routes are the big classics. On my second trip to Smith Rock (the first one wasn’t that great…) I managed to tick off Chain Reaction 5.12d (7c) made famous as the climb depicted on the Clif Bar wrapper, and Rude Boys 5.13c (8a+) known for its Rose move, and infamous run-out slab. Did you know that the name Rose move comes from a famous climb in Buoux, France called La Rose et le Vampire. My friend Drew’s dad, Rudy Ruana, told me that. He’s a fountain of historical knowledge about climbing in general and Smith Rock in particular.

On a different historical note, Rudy is rumored to have been a part of the 80s climbers wearing colorful tights and sporting a mullet… Rumors, Rumors… He has carefully suppressed all evidence so far… If you happen to have any, please feel free to share! :D

On my following trip to Smith Rock, I managed to send Scarface 5.14a (8b+). Scarface was the first climb of its grade established by an American (Scott Franklin). This route has a tremendous historical significance which attracted me towards it. After sending Scarface, I felt like I had just implanted myself into its history along side all the other ascents. I was beyond psyched. I have now sent several 5.14s, but Scarface means more to me than any other one.

Local Chris Sharma Classics

Surf Safari 5.13d (8b) | Photo: Killko Caballero

Some climbs are classics, but only on a local level. I happen to live close to where Chris Sharma grew up, and so I got the opportunity to try and send some of his early achievements. Among them Surf Safari 5.13d (8b) at Mickey’s Beach, and his first 5.14a (8b+), Übermensch as well as Hot Lava Lucy 5.13a (7c+) at the Pinnacles. Very close to my house there’s a bouldering crag called Castle Rock, where Chris used to climb regularly. This fall, I was really psyched to send one of his FA test pieces called Eco-Terrorrist V10 (7C+). Chris has always been one of my biggest idols, so being able to tick off some of the milestone climbs in his career at a younger age has a huge meaning to me.

Midnight Lightning

Midnight Lightning V8 (7B+) | Photo: Killko Caballero

Now, there are two kind of classics: Classics and Pure Classic History! Midnight Lightning is definitely in the second category, as probably the most famous boulder problem in the world. All the big name climbers that roamed Yosemite Valley, including the Stonemasters, and among them Lynn Hill have climbed it. Some may argue that Midnight Lighting is only V8 (7b+) which by today's standards may seem insignificant. However for me, sending it filled me with an almost unmatched joy. The grade of Midnight Lighting is irrelevant as it is hands down one of the most beautiful and amazing lines I have ever climbed. Whatever your climbing level, I believe that Midnight Lightning should be on your bucket list. Behind that Lightning bolt drawn in chalk on the rock, lie years and years of history and standing next to it and looking at it you feel so close to its history. It's just indescribable. Everything about the climb is perfect, and its movement is beautiful. A full package climb. It could have been a V0 for all I care it would still have been one of the most joyful ascents of my life.

Meadowlark Lemon

Angel Dyno V7 (7A+) | Photo: Killko Caballero

Just recently, I took a trip to Red Rocks in Nevada for a week of bouldering. This was my second trip to Red Rocks, I felt strong, and I was psyched! Most everything was new to me, so I just ran around and jumped on, and sent problems that looked nice, like Americana Exotica, Fear of the Black Cat, Lethal Design, and Angel Dyno.

However, my main project for the trip was the infamous Meadowlark Lemon Stand V13 (8B). At the end of the first day climbing at the Kraft Boulders, my Dad and I hiked out to check it out. The next day I immediately went to try it. I was pleasantly surprised as to how well it was going.

Lethal Design V12 (8A) | Photo: Killko Caballero

In no time I had figured out a beta that I thought would work and I felt it was just a matter of time. On my second day unfortunately a foot hold broke and I was forced to find new beta. This new beta made for a much harder foot sequence for me, which took me a while to figure out.

Finally it had come the last day of the trip... I had tweaked my index finger a bit, relentlessly trying the problem the previous evening, and I was nervous. My first few tries were not the best as I was afraid of further hurting my finger, but once it warmed up, I started to feel much better and began giving send burns. Temps were getting warmer, and I knew I had to go for it. So I slipped on my shoes one more time, and chalked up.

I took a deep breath and went for it. I hit the first hold, strenuously moved my feet into place and went for the crux move.... I hit the hold and crimped down hard. Carefully I moved up my feet (somehow moving my feet up was a real crux for me) and did the next move. I knew I had it, I had done this top part a handful of times. I just needed to remain focused. One move after another until finally. I was at the last move. I jumped and grabbed the finish jug. I hung there on one arm for a brief moment letting it all sink in, I was psyched, I had just sent my second ever V13 (8B)!!!

Meadowlark Lemon Stand V13 (8B) | Photo: George Bruce Wilson - Three Peak Films

Meadowlark is just an amazing looking line on fantastic marbled sandstone. It looks deceptively easy at first, but when you try it, it's hard and technical. A new modern Red Rock Classic for sure! I wish one day I’ll have the eye and ability of Paul Robinson to find such a gem, figure it out, and make it available for other climbers to enjoy! I definitely plan to come back and try the full sit version soon!

Onward and Forward, Lots More Dreams to Chase

Throughout my life I will always continue to push myself harder and harder in order to progress and push my limits, but I will also forever continue to seek out and climb the Classics in between all my hard projects.

Watch the video of some of the climbs in this blog post, click here for the new EpicTV mini-series

"Confessions of a Kid Crusher"

Confessions of a Kid Crusher

2014-01-07T20:24:00.000-08:00

EpicTV just posted the first episode of the mini-series shot by Three Peak Films!!!

The Day I Sent Evilution

2013-12-13T12:20:00.003-08:00

Photo: Bruce Wilson, Three Peak Films

Andrew Bisharat asked me to write a guest post for his blog evening sends. So I wrote this essay about my experience sending Evilution V11 (8A) at the Buttermilks in Bishop, CA. I'm psyched as this is my first published article outside of my own blog... :)

The Day I Sent Evilution

by mirko caballero on december 13, 2013 · 1 comment

For as long as I can remember, my family went climbing in Bishop, California, every year, in the fall and winter. By the time I was 6 years old, I started to climb seriously on my own. Ever since then, I remember every time we would arrive in the Buttermilks, I would look up in awe at Evilution.

Mirko Caballero, 12, on Evilution (V11), Bishop, CA. Photo: Bruce Wilson. Three Peak Films

Evilution is located on the Grandpa Peabody boulder and you simply can’t miss it. It’s the biggest boulder you see from the parking lot. There’s only one word for the Grandpa Peabody boulder… Massive! Its summit towers about 45 feet in the sky. And Evilution goes right up the steep face in the middle of Grandpa Peabody.

I’ve always walked up to Evilution, looked at the glassy crimps on the huge overhang, and then looked up at the long slab above the lip. Hard, crazy and nuts were the words that always ran through my mind.

I kept thinking about Jason Kehl, Evilution’s first ascentionist, first seeing this beast, envisioning the unthinkable top out, and doing it. Then the French climber Tony Lamiche came later and established the slightly easier, yet even more intimidating direct exit.

When I was finally tall enough to reach the start holds (with a stack of pads under me), I would try to hang onto the holds, but the first move was just GIANT!!!

But as I got increasingly stronger and more capable, I started to think I might actually someday be able to climb this boulder.

A few weeks ago, I came to Bishop and got to spot two French climbers, Michael Fuselier and Axel Ballay, working the crux at the lip on a top rope. I had met them before in Bishop, then the Red River Gorge, and also the Gorges du Tarn.

I started working the lower part with them. Meanwhile, I watched Michael and Axel get super close to toping it out. They kept falling on the hard moves above the lip. The fall seemed big but clean.

For my part I struggled with the first move. I could touch it, but was always just a little shy of sticking it. With the help of a power spot, I was able to try the next few moves and they seemed fine. I was getting stoked!

On one of my tries, out of nowhere, I surprised myself by sticking the first move! I was so surprised I almost fell, but I got my act together and focused on climbing through the next few moves. Suddenly, I found myself 20 feet off the pads at the lip of the Grandpa Peabody boulder. I couldn’t believe it! I had just sent I tried to refocus and keep going, but I was just too excited, and I fell almost immediately above the lip.

The fall seemed so much bigger than I thought it would be, but before I had time to be scared, I landed hard with a thud on the crash pads.

I felt so psyched to send Evilution to the lip, but the feeling didn’t last long. I was already thinking about the ultimate goal: topping out.

Enzo Oddo was also there and I watched him top out Evilution, making it look easy. That was a huge motivation boost for me.

The next couple of days, however, I became frustrated as I kept missing the first move. The one time I stuck it, I once again climbed back to the lip, but fell just a little higher. The fall was huge and scary, but clean. By now, it was time to go back home.

A few days later I got word that Michael Fusilier had also sent. I was really psyched for him but I couldn’t wait to get back to Bishop and have another try.

Being entirely aware of the height and danger, I needed to make sure I wouldn’t fall here.

We came back during Thanksgiving break. I decided that I should be smart so I don’t fall at the lip again. I decided to try the upper moves on a top rope, and everything quickly started to come together. There is one big lock-off move above the lip that allows you to pull over. That was powerful and gave me trouble. But I kept practicing it. Being entirely aware of the height and danger, I needed to make sure I wouldn’t fall here.

I took a rest day. The next day, I came back just after sundown, but again, I wasn’t able to stick the first move. Finally, I stuck it but felt so tired from all those other burns that I promptly fell off on the next move. Frustrating…

So I took another day. I spent the day hanging out with friends and climbing easy problems. But the whole day, the only thing on my mind was the thought of sending Evilution Direct. I replayed the first move in my head over and over. I told myself to go big, to keep my core tight, and to crimp on hard on the next hold. I spent the whole day just picturing myself doing it!

That evening, I managed to rally lots of crash pads and many spotters. I was going to go for it ground up. I slipped on my shoes, chalked up, took a big breath, and went for it…

And I missed the first hold. Again.

But I was so determined, I didn’t let that get me down. I shook it off. I relaxed. And I tried again.

This time I stuck the move. I kept climbing. I moved through the next sequence, and soon I was at the lip. I took a moment to calm my breathing and shake out a bit. I knew the next move was really big and hard and committing because you have to make a big lock off with a high heel hook, 25 feet above the pads! I had to execute it perfectly. I waited until I felt ready, then went for it.

My heel hook just seemed to get sucked into the hold. My body moved in one big dynamic and fluid motion, and my left hand just stuck on the hold! This time, it felt so easy … I took a deep breath and focused. There was another 20 feet of sketchy slab climbing to reach the top.

Right hand up, match, and bring up the foot. I locked off and reached up with my right hand and crimped down on the little hold above my head. Once I felt comfortable, I slowly brought up my left foot high. Carefully, I rocked over on it, grasped the left hand intermediate, and bumped to the final hold. I latched onto it!
At that moment I couldn’t believe what I had just done. I was in complete disbelief. It felt like this could be a dream. I finished up the remaining slab and was soon standing on top of the boulder. While climbing the boulder I was very aware of the height, but I had virtually no fear as I was purely focused on the moves. I knew that if I started to freak out, things would go downhill very quickly, so I kept myself calm, focused, and relaxed.

Standing on the summit of the Grandpa Peabody, having done this big, scary climb that I had been dreaming about since I was 6 years old, gave me a feeling of total exhilaration. I was literally shaking.

A lot of times, finishing off a project is a huge relief because you never have to try it again. But with Evilution, it felt different. Sure, sending was amazing, but it’s almost as if I’m sad to not be going through the process again. To me, Evilution, felt like “The Problem” in Bishop. It was my dream problem, and I think it will always be an important benchmark or stepping stone for me in my climbing.

But as they say, onward and forward. Lots more dreams to chase!

About The Author

Mirko Caballero, 12 years old, is a three-time National Champion in Youth Bouldering. He was born in Bedford, New Hampshire, but moved to Los Gatos, California, when he was a baby. His parents are from Switzerland and Bolivia, and are also climbers themselves. Mirko says he has climbed his whole life, but didn’t take it seriously until he was 6. He has sent over 60 boulder problems in the grade range V10 to V13, and over 60 sport climbs in the 5.13a to 5.14b range. He climbed One Summer in Paradise (V13), his hardest boulder problem to date, last summer during a trip to Magic Wood, Switzerland. His hardest sport climb to date is Stop Sika (5.14b), Rawyl, Switzerland, but the route he’s most proud of sending is Scarface (5.14a), Smith Rock. He turns 13 in January.

EuroTrip 2013

2013-10-12T08:50:00.004-07:00

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Just chillin' in Gorges du Tarn, France...

After ABS Nationals in March, I had to take a few weeks off to nurse my broken finger, which I talked about in my previous post.

Once I got the green light from the doctor, I was eager to get back into climbing. At first I was really excited to see how fast I was recovering my strength and endurance, but after a while I realized that getting back to 80% was really easy, but the last 20% proved to be really, really hard, and took much, much longer than I had hoped for...

I went climbing for a week at the Red River Gorge, but, while climbing pretty well, I just didn't have the stamina and power for the really hard routes I was hoping to try. It was quite depressing...

But I kept training hard, and climbing outdoors as much as possible on weekends, and slowly I started to recover my fitness.

I climbed a few times at Mickey's Beach north of San Francisco, and managed to send a few hard climbs including the classic Surf Safari, 8b (5.13d)... My Dad was pretty happy when I got done with that one, because he was getting poison oak rashes every time we went there... :D

The classic Surf Safari 8b (5.13d) in Mickey's Beach, California

Scarface 8b+ (5.14a) in Smith Rock, Oregon

Just before leaving for Europe, I got to spend a few days in Smith Rock again. I had some unfinished business, and went right on working on it.

I'm happy to report that by the end of the trip I had sent the iconic Scarface 8b+ (5.14a).

Scarface starts with a very bouldery section with pockets and monos, and ends up with a long, very scary, runout slab. I was so psyched to send it, and by now I felt really good, and ready for my summer climbing trip!

My Sponsors definitely stepped up!!!

On the morning of June 10th at 5am I heard a screeching grueling noise... My alarm. Ugh, but wait... June 10th, 5am... that could only mean one thing... TIME FOR EUROPE!!! This year was different than the others, as I had decided to skip SCS Sport Climbing Nationals in order to be able to climb in Europe for a longer time. You see, my school ended on June 7th and Nationals were July 8-11, which meant that, if I wanted to compete at Nationals, I would have to spend a whole month training indoors just for four days of competition, when I could instead go to Europe to climb, on real rock, in world class crags, for a whole 2 1/2 months.

Seriously, which one sounds better to you???

My Dad taught me how to make Long Exposure shots. Here's one of my first by the river in Magic Wood, Switzerland

Nalle Hukkataival sending The Understanding 8C (V15) in Magic Wood

When we finally arrived in Europe after 20 hours of traveling, I stumbled out of the plane jet lagged and half asleep. Although I did have a good time listening to music, watching movies, and doing pretty much nothing in the plane... What am I kidding I was so happy to finally be out of that flying metal can! We got our rental car and drove to my aunt's house. After arriving and getting through all the "Hey, how's it going?" 's, the "It's been such a long time!" 's and the "You've grown so much!" 's I finally passed out on the couch. When I woke up I didn't even know what day it was, but I did know I was in Europe which was good enough for me.

Climbing Right Hand of Darkness 8A (V11)

Europe is a big place and there are a lot of good places to see, so one day after arriving, we were off to Magic Wood for a week. Magic Wood is an iconic bouldering site in the Swiss German region of Swizzy.

After a week of bouldering I felt good by sending two 8A's (V11) my jet lag had gone down and I finally felt like a human again. I was even lucky enough to meet Nalle Hukkataival and even got to witness him sending his mega project... The Understanding 8C (V15). But before we knew it the week was over and we moved on.

Gorges du Tarn

We headed to the Petzl Roc Trip in the Gorges du Tarn, which is a world class sport climbing crag in France. I was really excited as I had heard of some awesome climbers who would be there including Dave Graham, Chris Sharma, Dalia Ojeda, Dani Andrada, Mélissa Le Nevé, Klemen Bečan, Anthony Gullsten, and many more! Some I had already met such as Chris, but I was still excited to catch up with him. My first day in the Tarn went great as I got to experience some great climbs and meet some great people. That night I got to meet Dave Graham and Dani Andrada. Dave and Dani are two people that I've always looked up to. Dave is one of the world's best ever boulderers having established countless FA's in the 8A (V11) to 8C (V15) all around the world. Dani on the other hand is a Spanish powerhouse sport climber who tends to stay a little more under the radar, nevertheless he continues to crush all the world's hardest sport climbs. Dave is a really funny, energetic, and happy guy. He also speaks amazingly well French and Spanish, lots of slang laced with a heavy American accent. Sooo funny!!!

Talking Beta with Mister Dave Graham!!!

Dani, well I didn't really get to know him much as he didn't speak English and I can't speak Spanish, but he did seem to be a very nice person. For the rest of my time there I climbed a lot with Chris and Dave... it... was... AWESOME!!!!! Finally it was time for the Millau Natural Games a huge international Outdoor Action Sport event including climbing, BMX, and paragliding, pretty similar to the TEVA (excuse me GoPro) Games, but much, much larger...

Qualifiers at Natural Games in Millau, France

Erwann, the Petzl Team manager signed me up for the bouldering comp... The Pro category bouldering comp!!! Being a 12-year-old, and youngest competitor, in the Professional category, against at least 30 professional adults, was quite intimidating, but in the end, without the stress of real competition, it was really fun! I even competed against Dimitri Sharafutdinov! The competition qualifiers was a pretty unusual format. There were 36 boulder problems, and we had 6 hours to complete them. However, in France, they count every problem, so you pretty much have to climb all of them if you want to have a good ranking. Also, every problem is initially valued 1000 points, but the real value is 1000 divided by the number of climbers that send the problem. Pretty cool... I climbed the full 6 hours, and managed to send 31 of the 36 problems! In the end I placed 19th out of 42 and I had a great feeling of accomplishment! Just to put things in perspective though, Dimitri showed up 2 hours late, sent every problem, with only 2 falls in total, and left with 2 hours left to climb... 36 problems sent in 2 hours, and he was the only climber to send all the problems!!! I didn't qualify for the finals (top 6 climbers, duh...) and so I got to watch them, fully relaxed, among 20,000 other spectators (yes... twenty thousand!!!). Crazy!!!

Mélissa & I performing some weird dance... ;)

Hanging out with Anna Stöhr and Mélissa Le Nevé...

Chalking Up...

After this it was back to Geneva for a day and then off to Magic Wood for round two! This time I managed to send one 8A+ (V12) and an 8A (V11)... in a day! I spent several days after that trying to find a new project and just continued on my "other" goal of climbing at least four 7x's for every 8x I sent).

Finally it was time to leave. We went back to Geneva to pick up Ashima at the airport, and the same day we then drove to Céüse to meet up with Alexi and his Dad, Vladimir, and our friends from Seattle... Rudy & Drew Ruana, Sean Bailey, and Bret Johnston.

The next three weeks were incredible climbing with everyone. We made a lot of friends from different places all around the world. In Céüse we climbed a lot and played a lot of ping pong. Climbing is such a small world, we met again with friends we had met last year in France and in Spain. Alizée Dufraisse was there again with her dad, and once again she gave me beta on several hard climbs.

With Ashima in Céüse, France

With Ashima and Drew in Céüse, France

Céüse is my absolute preferred Crag!!!

Over the three weeks I tried a lot of (and got close to) very hard 8c and above routes, and managed to send one 8b+, several 8b's, and a lot of route between 8a and 8a+'s including many flashes and onsights.

Ashima climbed two 8c's and a few 8a's. Sean sent his first 8c, then a week later his first 8c+!!

Drew focused mostly on onsighting, as he was preparing for the Youth World Championships later in August, and managed to climb many 7c+ to 8a+ flashes and even picked up some tips on ping pong from Bret who climbed lots of climbs in the 7c+ to 8a+ range including a flash of Sueurs Froides 8a+!

Alexi managed to send his first 8a (5.13b). He worked really hard for that one!!!
In the end it was amazing and I can't wait to climb with them again!

On one of our rest days, we went to watch the World Cup in Briançon, it's always amazing to watch the world's best climber's compete in front of 8,000 spectators, no less.

I also got to meet John Ellison, the founder of Climbers Against Cancer. John really inspires me! He's ill with cancer but has dedicated his life to raise money for the fight against cancer. Amazing!!!

A couple of days later some of the Pros came to climb in Céüse. I got to meet none less than Jacob Schubert, Akiyo Noguchi, Sachi Amma, and Dani Moreno, and climb beside them for a few days!

Ashima & I hanging with the Pros! Jacob Schubert, Akiyo Noguchi, Sachi Amma & Dani Moreno © Eddie Gianelloni

After this we were again off to Geneva to pick up Ashima's Dad, and then to Magic Wood to climb with the Raboutou's!

Bouldering with Robyn, Brooke, Ashima & Alexi

We spent two weeks climbing and hanging out together in Magic Wood!
Shawn & Brooke Raboutou are really talented climbers from Boulder, Colorado. Their Mom, Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou is a former world champion climber. But more than anything, they were just really fun to hang out with! I had a blast climbing with them, and we had many amazing goofy evenings, laughing our butts off. Before this trip I had only met them during US Nationals, a week during which we're all pretty stressed out, so hanging out with them, being totally relaxed, was just really great! That being said, it didn't stop us from climbing hard.
Au Contraire!

On our trip Brooke was able to climb several 8A's and one 8A+, Shawn climbed an 8A+ and several 8A's and 7C+'s. Ashima climbed two 8A+'s and one 8B!

I was able to climb many 7C+'s and 8A's, four 8A+'s, and My very first 8B (V13)!!!!

Climbing with Alexi, Ashima and the Raboutou's was a great experience with many fun filled days and exciting adventures... I can't wait to climb with all of them again!!

Forerunner at the Mammut Youth Swiss Cup

After this we drove back to Geneva, and Ashima and Popo (her Dad's nickname) left to go back home. As for us we moved on to the last week of our journey in Europe...

We went back to Magic Wood for a few days, and on our way to the next crag, I got asked to be a forerunner at a "Mammut Youth Swiss Cup" in the town of Näfels.

I got to watch a Youth Competition in Europe, and ended up getting a pretty good workout, as I had to forerun five routes during the day.

It was actually a little nerve wrecking, as I really didn't want to fall in front of all these people.

Well, good news, I didn't... :)

I forgot to mention that during our first week in Magic Wood I had also met Adam Ondra... The ADAM ONDRA!!! We didn't climb together, but had a nice chat by his VW van. He was complaining that the weather was too hot and humid, and the friction less than ideal in Magic Wood, so he was planning to visit a crag called Rawyl. 10 days later I read on 8a.nu that Adam had just onsighted his first 9a (5.14d) in Rawyl! So, I begged my Dad to go check it out during our last week in Europe...

The beautiful view from the Dam in Rawyl, Switzerland

Stop Sika, my 1st 8c (5.14b) in Rawyl, Switzerland

Rawyl is a beautiful climbing area in the Valais region of Switzerland, and we have a chalet (cabin) 40 minutes away which we stayed in (the only week all summer where we didn't camp in a tent). There's a wonderful dam in Rawyl located in a mountainous region with amazing climbing around it. On my first day in Rawyl I had my sights set on an 8c (5.14b) called Stop Sika in sector M12. I tried it twice and felt good on it. The next day we went a little earlier, and on my second try of the day on Stop Sika, I sent it!!!

My first 8c (5.14B)!!! And in only four tries!

Amazing!!!

We still had a few days left in Rawyl before going home, and after 2 1/2 month of hard projecting I was psyched on just trying some easier climbs. In the last few days I managed to send several 8a's (5.13b) to 8a+'s (5.13c) before we left. We drove to Geneva, packed up, and the next day drove to the airport and began our long 20 hour journey home. This EuroTrip has been one of the best experiences of my life. I got to climb with many friends and idols, and met tons and tons of people. I sort of got to live the life of a Pro for 2 1/2 months, literally climbing 3-days-on 1-day-off for most of the summer. I had mixed feelings about going home because I am going to miss Europe, but I was overwhelmingly happy to get back to my normal life and all my friends in Cali! Au Revoir Europe, Hello Cali!!!

In the end this was a trip with many amazing firsts for me. I sent my first 8B (V13) boulder, my first 8c (5.14b) sport route, flashed my first 8b (5.13d) route, and onsighted my first 8a+ (5.13c) route... During my summer in Europe, I also sent 22 sport routes 7c+ (5.13a) and above, and 16 boulder problems 7C+ (V10) and above. Definitely not a bad summer vacation... ;)

Ohhh, and before I got home I was notified that I was one of four recipients of the 2013 Five Ten Core Award! Not a bad summer indeed... :)

My New Sponsor - Giddy Organics!!!

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A Tale of a Finger, Hueco & ABS

2013-04-09T15:19:00.001-07:00

Packing for Hueco was, to say the least, a little stressful for me. Not knowing whether or not I could climb or not… Would I be able to compete at Nationals the following week? Even if I did, would I have a chance to win? Ok, let's rewind a little...

4 Weeks Earlier

On a beautiful sunny day in Mortar Rock, Berkeley I was climbing with my Mom & Dad and after a few tries on the popular New Wave V9 (7C) my finger started hurting a bit so I decided to rest it off for a few minutes. After a while it started to feel better, and I ran up The Ramp V4 (6C+) a few times and then decided to go try Going Blind Direct V8 (7B+). As I started climbing my finger felt sore again, but I just decided it was nothing more than just a little inflammation. So, I pushed through the pain and then I stopped for a second and realized I was standing on top the boulder! Going Blind Direct flash… After that I thought why not try Stan’s Into Going Blind? So I did and I surprised myself by quickly figuring out the moves and linking sequences on it! So after several tries I linked it all the way to the last few moves but got pumped and fell.

Ha! So I rested a little and then sent it! Phew… Not bad for my first time at Mortar Rock!

Climbing at Mortar Rock, Berkeley, CA

Although something wasn’t right, my finger was no longer sore but extremely painful and very swollen. So, a few days later I headed to the doctor… And after an hour of painful testing and X-Rays the doctor walks in and says my finger is broken. :( But, luckily it was only a small fracture. It turns out that when I was trying New Wave at Mortar Rock I actually crushed my knuckle levering against the rock in a pocket, and chipped a piece of bone at the attachment of the extensor tendon. Really a dumb accident as you really don't use that tendon for climbing (it's the one allowing you to straighten your finger). The only good news was that it was just a hairline fracture, and that the chip was still attached to the rest of the bone. The doctor said I needed to fully rest it and stop climbing for 3 weeks... Not bad you'd say, but this happened just 3 weeks before my trip to Hueco, and 4 weeks before Bouldering Nationals!!!

Back to the Present

So, now I was starting to wonder if I could climb and if I could would I be able to perform after three weeks of no climbing? Would my finger really be healed? The fear of not knowing was KILLING me!!!

“QUACK! QUACK! QUACK!” Rang the shrill tone of my alarm…

UUGGHHH 4:30 in the morning and I chose a duck sound to be my alarm?!?! What was I thinking?!? I dragged myself out of bed, dressed myself, and practically crawled to the car. And after what felt like a much too short hour long drive to the airport we started un-loading our gazillion pound bags. Yay! *whisper* Sarcasm *whisper*

Every step closer to arriving in El Paso was building up more and more fear for my finger. Constantly grasping the cold odd metal splint on my finger.

Hueco Tanks

Only in Hueco Tanks...

I woke up suddenly feeling the plane shaking violently and I looked out the window and realized that we had just landed. No matter how worried I was I couldn’t help being psyched. I was starving by now and more then psyched to be surrounded by delicious Mexican food. A quick stop at Doña Lupita and a few burritos later we arrived at the Hueco Rock Ranch and it was PACKED with people. After signing-in for the Hueco Rock Rodeo, and meeting new people and seeing some familiar faces we decided to go to bed.

We woke bright and early the next day to get out with our tour. We drove to the office and met our guide for the day, Wilder. I wasn’t feeling super strong, and my finger still felt a bit sore, but truth be told I was just super psyched that I could even climb. When we got back to the Rock Ranch, the Sponsor Company booths were starting to be set up, and my Dad and I had fun checking out all the new products!

Hanging out with The Legend!!! Mr. Fred Nicole!!!

Saturday was the Rock Rodeo adult competition, and it started out well with the one and only Fred Nicole baking pancakes for us the competitors. I got a picture taken with Fred, and I talked in French with him which was fun (Fred's from Switzerland like my parents). After breakfast we got ushered into vans and shuttled to the park. I was in the Advanced group and we were assigned to climb at East Mountain where the Open group was also climbing. This was my first time ever on East Mountain, and so I didn’t have much expectations at the comp. This was just a way to get on the mountain to get some good climbing in. At the end of the day I felt that I had had a good day. I got to climb with Nina Willimas, Angie Payne, Paige Claassen, and Jon Cardwell. I managed to onsight a V10 (7C+) and a V9 (7C), and ended up in 5th place in the adult comp. All in all, a pretty great day!

Huge Bonefire at the Hueco Rock Ranch

The next day I competed in the youth competition, and I again onsighted a V10 (7C+) and a V9 (7C). It was a fun comp, and I ended up getting a $200 Adidas gift certificate for winning the advanced category!

After this I spent my next week on several climbing trips guided by Jason Kehl and his girlfriend Martina Mali. I had a lot of fun projecting problems with Jason. Let me tell you, he's not nearly as scary as the Baby heads hanging off his Van would make you think!!! :) He's really nice, and knows everything about every problem in Hueco. Martina is really fun too. She showed me lots of problems to try, had lots of stories to tell all the time, and was just super energetic. If you ever go out to Hueco, make sure to book a tour with them!!!

Julio & Me V9, just before my crazy double-toe-hook beta...

Climbing with the Pros
Oh, I almost forgot... I got a Facebook message from Mélissa Le Nevé asking me if I was in Hueco. She said we should come climb with them for a day. We already had a tour booked with Jason, but my Dad asked him if we could cancel, and he was really nice about it and said no problem... So this one morning we show up to meet-up with Mélissa Le Nevé, Jacopo Larcher, and... wait for it... drum rolls... Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber!!! Only like the two best bouldering competitors in the world!!! I had an awesome day climbing with them, although it was a bit intimidating at times. These guys onsight, flash, or send in a couple of tries anything V13 (8B) and under!!!

Mirko climbing, Kilian Fischhuber spotting, Anna Stöhr, Mélissa Le Nevé & Jacopo Larcher watching... Paradise...

All in all, during the week I sent tons of fun climbs from the V10 (7C+) to V11 (8A) range. Finally, it was my last day and we went to North Mountain. After warming up, I decided to try Tequila Sunrise V12 (8A+), and sent it in 15 minutes I! I then headed to Terre de Sienne V14 (8B+) and came painstakingly close but strained my shoulder a little and had to stop. And just like that my trip came to an end. Off to Colorado!

Barefoot on Sacred Ground... Crimpin' ain't Easy but somebody gotta do it...

You'd think that after sending all these hard problems, everything was fine with my finger, but not really... It still hurt quite a bit, and I definitely felt a huge lack of finger strength. On crimps I could compensate by crimping hard with my thumb over the fingers, but I could barely hold on to pinches and slopers with my right hand... Over Christmas in Bishop, I had an amazing two weeks sending lots of hard problems. So I had big expectations for Hueco, but the finger injury and lack of training forced me to re-visit my objectives. Not a bad week, yet not what I was hoping for either... :(

Climbers Against Cancer (CAC)

I took a week off from school to go to Colorado to acclimate, climb and just hang out. Even though I was nervous for Nationals I was super psyched to see all my friends! Upon arriving my Mom handed me my brand new Climbers Against Cancer shirt that had arrived in the mail while I was in Hueco!!!! CAC is a non-profit organization devoted to raising money for cancer awareness and it’s very effective. John Ellison, their founder is just really passionate about the cause!!! My friend Michaela Kirsch introduced me to CAC & John, and she's certainly their most passionate US ambassador. Fortunately, I haven't had to deal with any cancer illness in my family, although I never got to meet my grandmother because she died of cancer before I was born... My Mom often talks about her, and I can tell she really misses her Mom... If you don’t have a shirt yet be sure to check them out! They’re sick shirts supporting and AMAZING cause.

Climbers Against Cancer (CAC) - Support the cause! Get your shirt!!! ©Michaela Kirsch

ABS 14 Youth Bouldering National Championships

Finally, it was nationals and I was PSYCHED, yet still scared about ny finger. My first day went well because I ended flashing all my routes feeling confident on all of them, and finishing in 1st place for the day! We had climbed early in the morning, so I got the whole day to hang out with my friends and just relax... In the evening, I went out to dinner with all my friends and then headed straight to bed because I was dead. I slept well and was ready for semi-finals. I woke-up early and got into ISO way before my deadline. I just hung out a little and slowly started stretching and then warming up. My finger was feeling slightly sore but after a little warm up it felt ok. Finally I was out and felt good. The first climb was a little funky, but I figured it out and managed a flash. Then I flashed number 2, and next thing you know, I flashed number 3!!! This put me again in first place going into Finals!

Climbing next to Ashima. We both ended up winning in our respective Youth-C category!!!

Finals are always stressy. It doesn't matter how well you did the days before, in the end it all comes down to those 3 last climbs in Finals!!! I didn't sleep too well, but still got up in the morning ready to fight!!! Finally my turn... I turn around for the first problem, a slab... I manage to move through the early moves easily, but carefully. Then a really funky move to the end hold super crunchy with my foot above my hand... I stand up slowly... Touch the finish hold... and NOOO... I loose my balance, and down I go!!! I was sooo MAD!!! How could I let that happen??? I jump back on the problem get to the same move... and this time I send it without a hitch! Next problem... I'm still Really Mad! I turn around, look at the problem for a few seconds, and I know... YOU GOT THIS!!! I get on the climb super confident and flash it easily! Now I'm feeling good again!

My friend Josh wins his last Youth Nationals before aging out...

Last problem, a big overhang... I like this... I easily move through the initial part, and get to the first crux... A big move to a Gaston. I'm confident in my lock-off strength, so I go static... and... down I go... Back up, same move... I do the same thing... and... down I go... Back on it again, I get to the same place do a big dynamic move... and... I stick the move!!! Next a big move to a small right hand crimp... I hit the crimp... This hurts sooo much... The pain radiates from my broken finger through my whole arm... I fall... I try again, do the same move, but the pain is just too unbearable... That's it! I go back to my seat with my head hanging low... And there's my Dad with a Big Smile!!! You WON!!! WHAT??? You WON!!! I can't believe it!!! Coming into Finals in first place, I was the last competitor climbing in Finals. Turns out the problems were really hard, and no other climber could finish two problems out of three. So by the time I got onto problem 3, I had already won Nationals! I just didn't know it!!! :D

Sticking the dyno!!!

Levitation!!! My new winning move... ;)

So in the end I had a really good Nationals. Only climber to Flash all my problems in Qualifiers and Semi-Finals. Only climber to send 2 problems in Finals, and I also got the high-point on the last problem. So despite what I thought, I got a decisive victory!

Can you spell Hat Trick? This was my 3rd Bouldering National Title in a row!

ABS 14 Youth-C Bouldering National Champion!!!

But there's more Good News!!! My Zero Gravity Team Friends did really well too!!! Cicada, Josh, and Connor also won the Gold Medal in their respective categories! Matt, my friend and competitor took 2nd place while Sam (who's not on my team, but still a friend) took 4th place and a US National Team Spot. Natalia took the Bronze Medal in Youth-C Girls, and our Zero Gravity Team won the Team Silver Medal!!!

Zero Gravity, Team Silver Medal!!!

But wait... So I'm starting to relax, and getting ready to hang out with all my friends, when I hear my name again... What??? The North Face Young Gun Recipient??? That's got to be an error... Well... No! I'm one of 5 recipients of The North Face Rookie Young Gun Award together with my friends Michaela and Margo!!! Congrats to Brendan Mitchell for winning the Young Gun Award!!! You deserve this one man... Nice Job!

The 2012 North Face Rookie Young Gun Award Winners, Brendan (2nd from the left) won the Young Gun Award

Back Home

So after all the excitement, we headed back home, but I was really freaked out about my finger. Did I break it again? Would it ever heal? We went back to the doctor, and... Good News!!! He said it was healing nicely, it just hadn't fully healed and solidified yet, and I just needed to take another 2 weeks off.

2 more weeks... and then I can start endurance training for my trip to the Red River Gorge for spring break. It will be a bit of a short preparation, but I think I can make it work... :D

Training at Jailhouse in preparation for the Red River Gorge...

X-Mas in Bishop

2013-02-27T11:34:00.000-08:00

The Bishop Buttermilks

This trip to Bishop was the coldest I ever experienced. When we arrived at the campsite around 2am on Dec 21, it was about 9ºF (-13ºC)!!! A few days later we had a snowstorm that dumped about 4 inches of snow in the campground. Who cares!!! I love Bishop in the winter. The cold makes the holds feel less greasy, and the views are just amazing!

Mirko Caballero

Looking at the View from the Table Mountains

Sending He Got Game (right) V11 (8A)

At the beginning of the trip I was planning to go project really hard climbs in the Buttermilks, but since they were snowed in and I hadn’t bouldered in almost nine months, my Dad convinced me to try and climb as many different problems as possible. I agreed, but at the same time, I was feeling strong and after a few days I had already climbed 5 double-digit boulder problems!

Sending Swordfish Trombone V11 (8A)

My friend Drew Ruana was going to join us for a few days, but by the time he arrived I had climbed seven V10’s (7C+)’s and two V11’s (8A), so I made a goal out of how I was climbing: Climb as many double-digits as days that I’m here. So, as the days went on I continued on my goal and progressed each day. One of my V11’s (8A) (Swordfish Trombone) was actually rated V12 (8A+) in the guidebook, but I dispatched it in less then 15 minutes and thought V11 (8A) was more appropriate. I had changed my goal from really hard projecting to a lot of more medium difficulty quick sends.

I also sent a really cool highball that I wasn't able to finish last year. It's called Saigon Direct V9 (7C). It really is a cool climb, and the picture with the snow covered mountain is amazing, I think...

Mirko on Saigon Direct V9 (7C)

Drew on Saigon Direct V9 (7C)

Drew & I checking out the Happies

On the morning of the 26^th I decided to take a rest day because my skin was wrecked and at around noon we had to go pick up my friend Drew Ruana from the Mammoth Airport. Drew asked if we could go climb a little, so we brought him to the Happy Boulders. It was the day after the snowstorm and it was really cold. I showed Drew around, and helped with some beta for about 2 hours, but I was so tempted to climb that I threw on my shoes and flashed a V10 without warm-up or anything! Yeah, I suck at rest days… ;)

Dylan being... well... Dylan...

By now all of my friends from Zero Gravity (Matt & Hanna Grossman, Cameron Read, Seth & Ethan Rogers, Dylan Meyerhoffer, Natalia Grossman and Melina Costanza from Seattle, WA) had arrived, and everyone was psyched to crush! Over the next few days the weather in the Buttermilks improved and the snow was melting, so Drew and I were psyched to check them out.

Working Blood Meridian V13 (8B)

On our first day there we tried a V11 (8A) called La Bellette, which was kind of interesting because it started with an iffy heel hook sequence that I had trouble with, then it changed to lock-off’s on crimps… which Drew had trouble with. So Drew was falling at the end and I was falling at the beginning. Drew ended up falling three times on the last move before a jug. Sooo close… I managed to send the problem the second I nailed the heel-hook sequence.

Sadly Drew’s last day came faster than we would have liked. It wasn’t our best day but it was still fun (as always). We got lucky with our planning, as my Dad had to drop off Drew at the airport while picking up Andy Lamb there. Well, not so lucky, because Drew’s plane got delayed and my Dad and Andy had to wait several hours until Drew’s plane finally took off.

Nick toping out High Planes Drifter V7 (7A+)

The next few days were not my best but Andy and Nick (who’d just arrived with his Dad) crushed. Andy climbed his first V11 (8A) and V12 (8A+), and Nick did his first V11 (8A) !!!!!!! Now it was our last day and I managed to send Kill Onsight V12 (8A+)!!!!

Nick and his Dad in their... Tent!!!

Talking about Nick… I have to tell you about his tent!!! When he arrived in Bishop, he texted me that they had set up their tent just nearby ours, and warned me: “My tent is big” So I texted back: “I know! Ours too…” He answered: “No, you don’t understand…

Your tent is big, mine is huge!!!”

So when we got back to the camping I was eager to see it. Well, that wasn’t hard… It was HUGE, and you could see it from everywhere in the campground…

Well it’s not so much a tent than a house made out of tarp…

Then we walked in and they had a big table set up inside, and they even had a stove burning pellets inside. The temperature inside was over 70°F (21°C)…

It was funny, because lots of people in the camping came by to check it out. It was the talk of the camping… I think Nick was a bit embarrassed, and it didn’t help that we were sort of egging him on a little about it… ;)

I ended up sending eighteen V10 (7C+) to V12 (8A+) in about 13 days of climbing, so I beat my goal by a comfortable margin!!!

Sending the Bubba Butt Buster V11 (8A)

Sending Bubba the Legend V11 (8A)

Next stop was Divisional Bouldering Championships in Portland, OR, and my birthday, and I was psyched!!!!! Qualifiers went well as I flashed every route, along with 5 other competitors. That night I had a great birthday dinner with my team, and many other friends. There was quite an embarrassing moment when they all decided to sing me a Happy Birthday at our hotel.

So, by now I was wrecked and ready for bed. After a good night’s sleep I was in ISO and before I knew it I was on the wall flashing the first problem, Then the second, and then BOOM! I was on top the third and final problem!!!!!!!!! Divisional Champion!!!!

So, you might ask: “What can be more embarrassing than 50 people singing Happy Birthday to you at the hotel???”

How about 500 people singing Happy Birthday while I stood on the podium!!!

…And nowhere to run and hide to… Mind you, I really thought about it… :D

Trying Center Direct V10 (7C+)

After Divisionals, we went back home and the next week we headed out to Bishop once again for a long weekend!!!!!

Working The Buttermilker Sit V13 (8B)... Still a little short...

This trip ended up being more of a first ascent trip. I ended up discovering a new full Sit down start (SDS) to the famous Seven Spanish Angels and I was getting close and I was also very nervous. Ian Cotter-Brown was working on a problem nearby, checked out my project, and started showing some interest. He tried it with me for a while, but we couldn't send it that day. On the second to last day I came back, and managed to send it first try of the day! I thought that it was harder than the 13 V10’s I had done in the past 3 weeks, and settled for soft V11 (8A).

Topping out Southwest Arete

I also got to climb a couple of real highballs. One of them is called the Southwest Arete. It's really easy, but ends 45 feet (14 meters) or so off the ground, so it's pretty scary up there...

Woo, now I had one last day left, and I managed to send One Mule Wonder Low V11 (8A, within 15 minutes), and Wisdom Whisperer V10 (7C+) FA!!!!

Bishop is Awesome!!!

Sporting my Bishop Dirtbag hair. I love my life!!!

Pump-fests, Slabs & Knobs...

2012-12-17T20:08:00.000-08:00

From Red River Gorge Overhang Pump-fests... to scary Smith Rock Slabs... to the knobby walls of Pinnacles National Monument... or the story of My Climbing Adventures during the fall of 2012.

Smith Rock, Oregon, United States © Killko Caballero

Red River Gorge (November 9-12, Veteran's Day)

After two two-hour flights and a two-hour drive we were finally back in Kentucky. The psych was

high and I was ready to get to work! I had less than 4 days to climb, so the next morning we were up at 7:00 am... On a weekend (I know, crazy right?) to go climbing at the Bob Marley crag.

Mirko Caballero on Fifty Words for Pump 8c+ (5.14c) © Killko Caballero

I had decided that for this trip I was going to get out of my comfort zone, and try some really hard climbs, just to see how I would do... So, after two quick 5.12 warm-ups I got on Fifty Words for Pump 8c+ (5.14c). This climb breaks down into three sections. The first part is 4 bolts of powerful-dynamic climbing on pretty good holds, the second part are the hardest moves on the route. It is a 7C (V9) boulder into a good rest before heading into the third part which is about 5 or 6 bolts of crazy pumpy 8b (5.13d) before reaching a potential heart breaker finish move right at the top. In simpler terms it's a long hard boulder into an even harder boulder into a good ol' Kentucky pumpfest.

I surprised myself as on my first try I managed to do all the moves, and clip the chains (with a few falls along the way). After a quick rest I got back on and linked all of the first part and fell on the V9 crux. I gave it two more more tries after that and then we headed back to the beloved Miguel's Pizza, where we were camping, and had dinner with Eric & Cameron Hörst, Margo Hayes, and Urs Moosmüller.

Unfortunately Cameron and Margo were nearly at the end of their trip, so I didn't get to climb with them.

Mélissa Le Nevé, Mirko Caballero & Jacopo Larcher talking turkey... © Killko Caballero

On Saturday we headed back up to the Bob Marley crag and I gave Fifty Words for Pump another try and when I got back down to the ground, our (crazy strong) friends Mélissa Le Nevé (France) and Jacopo Larcher (Italy) showed up! I took a little break and watched Mélissa give Southern Smoke 8c/+ (5.14b/c) a try and... She Sent!!! Jacopo then proceeded to simply annihilate Southern Smoke Direct 9a (5.14d)!!! After their "send train", Mélissa offered to belay me on Southern Smoke.

Jacopo Larcher, Southern Smoke Direct 9a (5.14d)

Southern Smoke differs from Fifty Words in that the cruxes are not nearly as hard but it is constantly difficult the entire way. I gave it just one try, and I now know that I will send it someday soon...

We then headed over to the Purgatory crag, as Mélissa and I wanted to check out Lucifer 8c+ (5.14c). Mélissa almost flashed it as she fell on the last hard move. I got to the chains with just three falls, but by then it was getting dark, and I was getting tired.

That evening Mélissa & Jacopo invited my Dad and I for dinner. I have to say, as world class climbers go, these two are just awesome.

The next day we went back to the Bob Marley crag, and I sent Ultra Perm 8b (5.13d) second go. By now I only had half a day left, so I decided to try my luck at onsighting. We went to the Motherlode and after a few warm-ups, I onsighted Bohica, my first 8a (5.13b) onsight! Only 15 minutes later I onsighted Flour Power, my second 8a (5.13b) onsight! My Dad was telling me to keep going on the extension, but I was so excited, I didn't hear him and completely forgot about it. After that I tried to onsight Hoofmaker 7c+ (5.13a) but fell on the initial bouldery sequence due to a dumb mistake. I was really mad at myself, so as soon as I got lowered down, I untied, pulled the rope, tied back in, and sent it second go.

By now it was time to pack and head to the airport. My short 3.5-day trip was over. I wish I had had a few more days to get back on Lucifer, Southern Smoke, and Fifty Words for Pump... I'll be back!!!

Smith Rock (November 18-25, Thanks Giving)

Mirko Caballero on Kings of Rap 7c (5.12d)

My first visit to Smith Rock in June 2012 wasn't the greatest. It was hot, and I was uncomfortable on the scary technical slabs with long run-outs. So I had planned to start by getting used to the rock during my first few days, but I guess climbing slabs in Céüse last summer must have helped my technique...

Already by the second day I had redpointed Chemical Ali 8b+ (5.14a) and Chain Reaction 7b+ (5.12c), and onsighted Taco Chips 7c+ (5.13a)! So, I guess I was off to a pretty good start!

Did I tell you how cold it was??? No??? Well it was freakin' cold, and windy!!! My Dad and I brought a sleeping bag to the cliff to keep us warm during the rests. We had chemical hand warmers in our pockets, and I even put one into my chalk bag to warm up my fingers while I was climbing!!!

The 3rd day it was raining hard, and I took what ended up being my only rest day in 8 days of climbing. That evening was when our good friends the Ruana's were coming and we were psyched to get out and climb with them the next day. After Drew and I warmed up on Latest Rage 7b (5.12b), Drew and his Dad, Rudy thought I should try a few Smith Rock "classics". So, they got me on Rude Boys 8a+ (5.13c), and when I first started I felt pretty bad, but move after move I weirdly started to feel better and better.

Mirko Caballero flashing Rude Boys 8a+ (5.13c) © Killko Caballero

Drew gave me great beta on the initial hard bouldery section, and as I was moving through the cruxes apparently people started realizing that I might have a shot at flashing it. Everybody was encouraging me, and yelling at me to stay focused through the long scary slab finish... I actually hadn't realized I was flashing it until I was one move from clipping the chains... but I did!!! My hardest flash so far!!!

Mirko on Scarface 8b+ (5.14a)

I never considered myself a big onsight/flasher, but by now I was so psyched that I went and tried to onsight Churning in the Wake 7c+ (5.13a) and when I got to the chains my Dad and Drew were yelling up at me to keep going, and I'm glad I did as I ended up onsighting the extension as well, Churning Sky 7c+ (5.13a)! That was an awesome zero-fall day, where I onsighted or flashed every climb I attempted including my warm-ups and some more 5.12's...

Mirko on Scarface 8b+ (5.14a)

Drew came with just one project in mind. He's working To Bolt or To Be 8b+ (5.14a). It's a really intimidating looking climb on a long, perfectly vertical, slab with tiny pockets and crimps.
Drew didn't send, but he made good progress. I know he'll send it soon. Maybe when we go back in January?

The Ruana's invited us for Thanks Giving dinner with their family and they also invited the Robertson's. We had fun playing cards, buildering on their bedroom stairway, and stuffed ourselves with an amazing dinner.

Over the next few days I was able to send two more 8a (5.13b), Oxygen and Slit Your Wrists, both on my second go! I also sent numerous more "classics" that the Ruana's had in store for me.

I also worked on Scarface, another 8b+ (5.14a). I got nerve-wreckingly close on my last day. I did it with just one fall... next time... By now, our trip was over and I was getting psyched to finally change my focus to bouldering....

Pinnacles National Monument (December 15)

....Wwweeellll... maybe after one more thing... So on the first weekend that it wasn't raining in "Sunny California", we headed out to Pinnacles National Monument so I could attempt to finish Übermensch 8b+ (5.14a). Übermensch was a climb bolted by Sterling Keene, and first climbed by Chris Sharma when he was 13 years old. I know Sterling because his daughter Shani is in my school and she also competes in climbing. Small world...

Mirko Caballero on Übermensch 8b+ (5.14a) © Anthony Lapomardo

The climb follows an overhanging arête on tiny shallow crimps and pinches. It is short, but very powerful and bouldery with hard lock-offs. I think it was originally rated 8b (5.13d), but the rock at Pinnacles is volcanic conglomerate, and many holds have broken off Übermensch, and it's now considered to be a hard 8b+ (5.14a). When I first looked at it while working on Lard Butt (it's another climb... don't ask...) it didn't appeal to me at all, but Anthony Lapomardo and my Dad convinced me to try it, and it ended up being surprisingly fun to climb. I had worked it a couple of days before and had gotten close to sending so I came with full confidence that today would be the day...

And so it went.. after a quick warm-up and one run on it, I sent it! My fourth 8b+ (5.14a), and also my 32nd 7c+ (5.13a) to 8b+ (5.14a) in less than a year!!!

Anthony Lapomardo took some awesome pictures and is editing a video of my Pinnacles Adventures.

He also just posted this cool write-up on Dead Point Magazine...

Mirko Caballero on Übermensch 8b+ (5.14a) © Anthony Lapomardo

Also, the picture he took of me sending Hot Lava Lucy just got published full page on the Winter issue of California Climber Magazine!!!

Mirko Caballero on Hot Lava Lucy 5.12d/5.13a © Anthony Lapomardo

Ok, I believe this was my "Last Sport Climb of 2012". Now I can officially focus my attention on bouldering. In less than a week I will be going to Bishop over Christmas and New Year. We'll be camping at the Pit for two weeks... Breakfasts at Schat's Bakkery, awesome bouldering with friends (Drew is also coming) at The Buttermilks, The Happy Boulders and The Sad Boulders, and Mexican food... I'm sooo psyched!!

Mirko Caballero

Stay tuned!!!

Yosemite Big Walls

2012-10-24T14:09:00.000-07:00

Ever since I started climbing on ropes last year, I’ve thought about getting on some multi-pitch/big wall climbing sometime in the distant future. But then I went to Yosemite for the first time with some friends a few weeks ago, and when I looked up at El Capitan at night I counted 24 flashlights (14 lights on The Nose alone). After that I just couldn’t stop thinking about it anymore.

On a Tuesday evening we went to an ASCA Fundraiser Auction hosted by Tommy Caldwell and Chris McNamara at Planet Granite San Francisco. I noticed that one of the items being auctioned off was Climbing The Nose on El Capitan with Jim Herson, I ran over to my Dad and begged him to bid on it, and before I knew it my Dad had won the bidding war!!!!!! We went to talk with Jim and he said we should start training for it right away. Jim told me that he was going to climb The Rostrum, 8 pitches, 5.11c with some friends that coming Sunday, and told me I could join them, or I could come the following weekend for an easier climb. After mulling it over for a day, I called him and said I was up for The Rostrum... I must confess that I may have been a teensy bitsy scared, so on Thursday I tried some crack climbing for my first time ever at the gym! It was really really hard. I was starting to get really concerned now that I realized how hard crack climbing actually was.

On Saturday as we were getting into Yosemite Valley, we spotted Tommy Caldwell and Jonathan Siegrist on the side of the road, who were preparing to go up El Capitan to work on their monster Dawn Wall project. I stopped to say Hi, and we had a brief chat. I then went bouldering and in the afternoon I met Alex Honnold at Camp 4, who had just come down from a big wall climb. We ended up bouldering together until it got dark. Alex showed me around a bunch of Yosemite Classics that were medium difficulty climbs. It was so Sick to boulder with Alex!!!

As we were bouldering, we had a little conversation that went something like this:

Alex: Mirko, what are you doing tomorrow

Me: I’m climbing my first multi-pitch with Jim Herson

Alex: Oh cool! Which one?

Me: The Rostrum!

Alex: Great route! That’s your first multi-pitch?

Alex: How’s your crack climbing?

Me: Well I tried for the first time on Thursday in the gym

Me: ...and I just sent Bachar Cracker, my first crack boulder problem today

Alex: And you’re doing The Rostrum?!?!?!? Dude, that's badass!!!

Well... Now I was a teensy colossal bit scared....

A little later in the evening we saw Dan and Luke at the pizza deck in Curry Village.

Dan & Luke: So Mirko, what are you climbing tomorrow?

Me: My first multi-pitch and my first crack climb

Dan & Luke: Which one?

Me: The Rostrum!

Dan & Luke: Really?? Dude! Good luck....

Ok, now I was ridiculously freaked out...

Artem has a Guardian Angel...

Cool cat walking by at Camp 4

Sunday morning!!! It was finally Sunday morning which meant today was the big day, and as you know I was really really really scared. We met up with Jim and Chan at the Bridalvail Fall parking and they drove me up to the top of the climb. After a fifteen minutes descent and two rappels later we were at the base of The Rostrum!!!! I was so focused, I was in the zone, and before I knew it I was starting up the third pitch and was really enjoying myself. It wasn't quite as scary as I thought it would be.

After struggling on what felt like the longest crack in the world I was finally at the base of the "crux" fourth pitch. Even though the fourth pitch was graded the hardest at 5.11c, it felt rather easy. Sadly I only realized this when I was halfway through the indescribably hard pitch six, but we'll get to that later. And so by the time I finished the fourth pitch I was psyched!! I had just flashed every pitch including the "hardest" pitch of the route!! Now with my motivation high I was able to run up pitch five relatively easily. And by now I was really psyched!! And I went up pitch six feeling super strong until... The off-width section *drum rolls... dramatic music...* and that is when I realized that pitch four was far from being the hardest pitch -- at least for me. So after about 15 minutes of pulling on nonexistent crimps on the face on the side of the off-width I made it to the top of the pitch!!!

Finally!!! Now only two pitches left!!! As I scaled up the seventh pitch a thought came through my head. Every move I do, the higher I am than I've ever been!! After an 80 foot pitch climb there was only one move left and I was pumped and tired so I pulled my feet up and 1...2...3!! I dynoed and just barely caught the lip of the ledge. Only one pitch left!!! Oh, wait.... it's another off-width!!! But I just told myself that if I made it this far I could do just one more pitch. So one awkward traverse and a not so hard off-width later I reached the top of my first ever multi-pitch climb and my first ever crack climb, having climbed every pitch clean without falling!!! The view from the top of The Rostrum is incredible!!! After fifteen minutes we were at the car and drove to the El Capitan Meadow to meet up with my parents.

The Rostrum

At the meadow:

Matt (friend of Jim): So did you lay back all the cracks?

Me: Yup, pretty much!! :)

My Dad: How did the off-width go?

Jim: What off-width? He found some nonexistent crimps, and face climbed it…

My Dad: Haha that sounds about right!!

As we were saying goodbye, Jim told us that he would be in Yosemite the following weekend and that I was welcome to climb with him and his daughter Kara on Sunday. And so without hesitation I accepted his offer!!

El Capitan!!!

I got an email from Alex Honnold asking me how it went, and then congratulating me!!! He then said that we should climb something together sometime. He said he would think about something “interesting”!!! Ok... seriously... what does it mean when Alex wants to climb something “interesting”??? I’m both super psyched and super freaked!!!

On Saturday my Mom and I drove to Yosemite. We got there around 12:30pm and we went to Camp 4 for some bouldering. The first thing I tried after warming up was a V10 called 6 Degrees. I almost did it second try and fell on like the last move and missed the pads and bruised my ankle a little, so I stopped trying it. Next time!!! (with more pads hopefully:)). I then went to try a climb called Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass, V9. I sent it on my third try in only fifteen minutes!! I then went back up the hill and tried an unclimbed problem I had my eyes on.

I cleaned it tried it a few times and broke off a few holds, and then I sent it!! I called it Biggie Short V6/7 do to it being pretty short but powerful. I then walked around the boulder and flashed two V5's and one V6 and then tried Tap Dance V10. After working it hard I finally figured out all the moves I just had to put them together!! And about ten minutes later I found myself repetitively falling on the last hard move!! I took a five minute break and sent Tap Dance V10 (my eleventh double digit boulder)!!!!

The next day I went with Jim and Kara to climb the first thirteen pitches of The Nose on El Capitan!!!! Just to be clear, Kara is a pretty badass climber! She has done a lot of multi-pitching in Yosemite, and has climbed a 22-pitch route on Half Dome with her Dad a year ago!!!

The Queen Swing

Ok, back to The Nose... Let me tell you that it was just downright TERRIFYING!!!!! It was soooo much more exposed than The Rostrum, and it was freaky windy, and the last off-width was really hard, and it got sooo cold on the rappels down... Oh, and there is that Queen Swing a pendulum where you have to run across the face hanging on the rope to catch a flake... But I have to say that in the end it was just really AWESOME!!! It got me really psyched to try to do the full route!!!

The Nose is a beautiful 32-pitch monster rated 5.14a scaling straight up through the middle of this gigantic 3,000 ft. (1,000 m.) granite wall in the middle of Yosemite Valley!! It was first free climbed by the incredible Lynn Hill!!

Kara & Mirko styling the Stovelegs on El Capitan © Jim Herson

Long story short, I am totally psyched...elically hooked!!!!

Epic Summer in Europe

2012-09-01T08:32:00.001-07:00

It’s been a while since my last post, but I have some excuses: it’s been a hectic time since my trip to the Red River Gorge, and training to prepare for US Youth Nationals in Speed & Sport Climbing.

I did go outside a few more times to Smith Rock, Pinnacles, Donner Pass, Jailhouse and Big Chief, and sent a few more 5.13’s along the way. But back to my Summer climbing... I wrote this post over the 10 weeks I was traveling, but only now got the time to put it all together and post it.
So let me tell you about US Nationals in Atlanta, and my trip to Europe climbing in such amazing places as Magic Wood, Switzerland, Céüse, France, Rodellar, Spain, and the Rock Junior in Arco, Italy...

Pre-Nationals Training Camp, Atlanta

Like last year, I went to the pre-nationals Training camp in Hotlanta at the amazing Stone Summit Climbing Gym, organized by the US National coach Claudiu Vidulescu. I was really excited to return as I remembered how much I liked it last year. During the two-week camp we climbed 6 hours a day 3 days on, 1 day off. We did a lot of endurance, power, and speed climbing. The two weeks seemed to go by really fast, and by the end of the camp, I felt really strong, and I was psyched and ready to go to US Nationals.

US Youth National Championship Sport & Speed

The first day of the competition went very well. I on-sighted the sport qualifier route 1 and placed first in qualifiers for speed. On the second day I was one of only a few climbers to top the sport qualifier route 2, and as for speed I put up the second fastest time securing me a place in finals.

Day 3 was semi-finals in sport and finals in speed. I was really happy as once again I on-sighted my sport route, as semis are usually very hard. So as you can guess I was psyched. Last year I was having some buffer in speed compared to the competition, but this year Joe Goodacre proved to be a tough and dangerous competitor. I knew I had to pull out all the stops… I’m standing in front of my route next to Joe… Ready, Set, Go!!! I pull as hard as I ever have and pull and pull and pull, and hit the top… Result I post my best time of the whole three days and beat Joe by half a second! I’m psyched, I just have to control the second run. I climb more relaxed, and still come in ahead of Joe securing first place and...

My 2nd consecutive National Championship Title for Speed climbing!!!

Finals for sport started a bit hectic, I woke up nervous. After a good warm-up and stretch I was ready to climb. The route was a big overhang that suits my style of climbing. Before I knew it, I was climbing up the beginning section. It seemed easy, and I was feeling confident. I’m about half-way through the roof when I move to the next hold maybe a little carelessly, not in perfect balance, my foot slips, I barn-door, and nooooo!!! I’m falling!!! Unfortunately I fell quite early finishing only in 7th place in Sport climbing. I’m devastated!!! I came to Nationals soooo much stronger than last year, I was sure I had a big shot at winning this, but… it happens! The most important thing is to keep your head high and get over it. I’ll be back next year!!!

Well it wasn’t that easy to get over it. I kept on replaying the scene in my head, wondering why I did that dumb mistake. Over and over I would do it right in my head, but then back to reality, I end up in 7th place at US Youth Nationals… :(

But then my Dad comes to me, consoles me again, and asks me:

“Do you know where we’re going tomorrow?”

Me, “Home I guess”
“No, we’re flying to Geneva”
In a daze, “Why what are we doing there? I thought you couldn’t go on vacation…”
“Well... I quit my job! How does Magic Wood, Céüse, and Rodellar sound?”
“Are you kidding me!!!!”
“Feeling a little better?”
“YAAAAA!!!!!”

Almost forgot to mention that my team Zero Gravity Climbing took 2nd Place in the Team Category!

We left directly from Atlanta, and flew to Geneva in Switzerland. We rented a minivan, and went to visit family for a few days. Finally it was time to start our climbing adventure, and we drove 5 hours to Ausserferrera in eastern Switzerland close to the world famous Magic Wood bouldering crag for a week of bouldering…

Bouldering!!! I have to say that it felt great to be back bouldering, even though I’m not in bouldering shape right now. In Magic Wood I had a lot of fun. There are lots of boulders in the middle of a forest with a river rushing down on one side. The rock type is called Gneiss, it looks like granit, but less coarse and grainy than in Bishop. The boulders by the river are very slick, and you mostly have to climb on slopers, but it gets more crimpy as you climb farther into the forest. The landings aren’t great as there are lots of roots, and big holes in between.
On our first day, I on-sighted Unknown V6/7 (7A+), Bosna Genial V6 (7A), Bosna Royal V6 (7A), and Iron Butterfly V8 (7B+), and then went to work on the famous Never Ending Story Part 1 V12 (8A+).

I was able to dispatch all the moves except for two. By now it was getting dark, and so we headed to the campsite.
We had dinner and headed to bed. The next day we warmed up and I got on Jack's Broken Heart V12 (8A+). I surprised myself by being able to do all the moves but one in a very short period of time. After trying Jack's, I got on Octopussy V11 (8A) and I did all the moves except one which was just too reachy for me.
I then on-sighted Supernova V9 (7C)!

After this I went to try Never Ending Story Part 1 and was able to unlock all the moves and I made a lot of progress turning all the low percentage moves into higher percentage moves. By now it was dark and I was having trouble seeing all the holds. So we left for the campsite. The next day I woke up at 7:30 a.m., had breakfast, and went climbing. I sent Grit de Luxe V7 (7B), and Slip Slap Slop V6 (7A), which was reachy for me and forced me to dyno onto some really small crimps. I tried Jack's Broken Heart again and came very close to sending but it then started raining so we went to try Massive Attack V12 (8A+) but I couldn't span the second move although I could easily do all the rest.

Discussing Beta with Guillaume Glairon-Mondet

We had to leave the next day for a family reunion but we came back one day later. I on-sighted a First Ascent linking two existing climbs and called it Bipity Bopity Boop V5 (6C+) and U-Boot V4 (6C), a really cool traverse at the edge of a boulder. Then I got back on Jack’s Broken Heart, and this girl asked if she could try it with me. Turns out it was Shauna Coxsey! We worked it together and shared beta, and once again I came really close but unfortunately it started to rain again. So we headed to the one dry climb in Magic Wood. Drumroll Please............THE NEVER ENDING STORY!!!!! This time, Guillaume Glairon-Mondet was working it, while Mélanie Sandoz was filming his attempts… I surprised myself by falling only five moves from the end.

Projecting with Shauna Coxsey

We now only had one day left in Magic Wood so since everything in the forest was still wet I got on Never Ending Story again, But this time with Shauna Coxsey. I helped her with beta and she helped me refine some moves to be more efficient. After refining the beta I gave it some goes from the start and fell twice on the 4th to last move, once on the 2nd to last move, and once on the 3rd to last move. In the end I came devastatingly close to sending the climb but we had to leave. If only it hadn’t rained soooo much… Next time I guess…

Talking with Shauna Coxsey

I heard that Shauna broke her leg a few days later in Magic Wood. I hope she will recover quickly.

I would have liked the other two big bouldering sites Cresciano, and Chironico in Switzerland which aren't very far from Magic Wood, but we didn't have time. Next time I guess...

Ever heard of Edelweiss? It's a pretty rare flower that you find in the Alpes. Guess we got lucky...

Edelweiss

We drove back to Geneva late afternoon, had a typical Swiss Raclette dinner of melted cheese on potatoes with the family, slept, and the next morning we drove to Céüse, and got there right in time to climb in the afternoon and evening.

The whole package, GREAT climbing, GREAT views, and lots of FAMOUS climbers. Céüse is an awesome long Limestone wall at the top of a mountain.

Somewhat crowded...

I have to admit that I wasn't particularly fond of the hike (steep non-stop for 45 min to 1 hour) on the first day or the second or the 3rd even, but by the end of the week I was doing much better, and sort of liking it. I even got into a little competition with Tim, a german climber to try to make it in less than 30 minutes. Didn’t happen, but I made it once in 34 minutes... By the way, did I tell you how the hot it is during the hike? Well it is hot! We usually left the campsite around noon to 1pm, as the walls got in the shade around 2:30pm. But the trail wasn't in the shade... It's weird, because as soon as the walls get in the shade you need to put on a jacket if you're not climbing. Perfect climbing conditions...

With Ethan Pringle

I had already come to Céüse last year for 4 days, but by then I had only been climbing on ropes for 5 months or so. The climbing here is quite slabby, and very technical, so last year I had a hard time even climbing mid 5.12’s. On the first day I warmed-up and right away onsighted a couple of 5.12’s, so that felt great! Then I saw Ethan Pringle who gave me a few tips on climbs I should try.

Who Said Céüse is Only Slab?

Sunset in Céüse

I went to try Bourinator 5.13b (8a) and powered through the bottom crux and fell at the top on the last hard move due to pump and a misread of the climb.
It was getting dark, and we didn't have any food at the camping so we had to leave to go to a pizzeria before it closed so we ran down the mountain and got to the pizzeria right before they closed at 10pm.
I’m definitely feeling much better and stronger than last year. The second day was the hardest day for the hike as I was still sore from the first day and not quite used to it yet. But the climbing went pretty well. I did some 5.12a's and 5.12b's (7a+ and 7b) and then sent Bourinator 5.13b (8a).

Talking Beta with Sasha DiGiulian

Sasha DiGiulian and Matilda Söderlund were working Dures Limites 5.14b (8c) and Sasha told me I should give it a try. After that I tried to on-sight Makach Walou 5.13a (7c+). Sadly I fell at the very top, past the last bolt, because I didn't realize that some holds at the far left were on.

Simul-climbing with Alizée Dufraisse

So the next day I headed up warmed up, and sent Makach Walou while Alizée Dufraisse was warming up next to me!!!

With Alizée Dufraisse

I then went to try Carte Blanche 5.13b (8a) and fell just once on the reachy crux. I then exchanged beta and worked with Mélissa Le Nevé on Dures Limites 5.14b (8c). We then all went down to the campsite and joined a camp-wide BBQ. Sadly we didn't have any meat to bring, but my brother Yolan and I still scored a free Kebab from Mélissa, so I'd say it was a pretty good day...

The next day I had a good warm-up knocking down three 5.12a's (7a+) and then sent Carte Blanche 5.13b (8a). I then tried Le Poinçonneur de Lilas 5.13c (8a+) and fell after the 7th out of 10 clips on my on-sight attempt. Not surprising as that is the big crux.
I also tried Slow Food 5.14a (8b+) but got my butt kicked on my 1st try, but on my 2nd go I more or less figured out the moves. I then watched Anthony Gullsten on-sight it like it was a piece of cake! On top of that he's seriously good at foreign languages. He's Finnish but also speaks French, Spanish and English fluently...

On our last day I warmed-up on three 5.12's (7a+ to 7b+) and then sent Le Poinçonneur de Lilas 5.13c (8a+)!!! I tried Slow Food 5.14a (8b+) again, and got all the moves down pat and went to try Petit Tom 5.13b (8a) but by then it was my 4th day on and I was so tired I just couldn't climb anymore.

Including Magic Wood, I had climbed 13 days with just 3 rest days in between!!! So we went to bed and the next day we started packing up and we headed to Barcelona for two days and then Rodellar for two weeks!!!

Céüse is definitely the place lots of strong sport climbers go to in the summer. Apparently even Chris Sharma was there during our stay bolting some new project, but I didn't get to meet him this time.

This is the climbing and canyoning paradise, but mostly climbing... :) known as Rodellar near Huesca in Spain about 3 hours from Barcelona.

Rodellar is a very small quaint town that you reach after driving 20 miles on a small winding road. There are a few locals, and lots of climbers, canyoneers, and hikers, that’s it. We set up our campsite, checked out the town, had dinner and went to bed. I was so excited to climb in Rodellar that I woke up early rushed to have breakfast, took a shower, and packed my backpack to go to the Kalandraka Bar & Refugio to meet with Scott Cory, Cicada Jenerik, and Brian Antheunisse.

It being our first day Scott had offered to give us a tour and bring us to a good warm-up spot and show us some routes. So as you can guess without hesitation we took him up on his offer. When we first got here we weren't sure if we were going to stay here for the whole time or go back to Céüse after a week, but as Scott was showing us around and letting us take it all in, I knew, without a doubt, that I wanted to stay the entire 2 weeks. Scott showed us El Delphin a big hole in the rock that looks like a dolphin with a climb that goes right up its spine.

Las Ventanas

Rodellar is very different from Céüse. Instead of one big long wall, it’s a bunch of walls and caves in a valley around a river. The rock is also Limestone, but not as compact as in Céüse. We almost had an accident one day, as I broke off a big foothold that landed only inches from my brother who was belaying me. But that only happened once...

Definitely easier hikes, but the weather is also much warmer…
At first the climbs and caves look smallish, but then Scott brought us to "Las Ventanas" and as we rushed up to it and we were all admiring it, I knew that I was going to be spending a lot of time here. Can you imagine big crazy overhanging routes with big Tufas everywhere? Well, when I say big, I mean big! Lots of routes all 100 feet or more!!!
A few 5.11's and 5.12s, to warm-up, but then most of the routes are 5.13a and above.
And then you understand why it's called "Las Ventanas", when you see those big arches and holes in the rock. Ventanas means Windows in Spanish...

I spent the first few days just getting used to the rock and not trying any hard on-sights or super hard projects. There were sooo many sick climbs that it was hard to focus on any specific project. I just wanted to try them all… In the end I only focused time projecting two routes, Ixeia 5.14a (8b+) and Espirit Rebeld 5.13d (8b). The others I either dispatched quickly, or just didn’t get psyched on and moved to something better.

After getting used to the rock I jumped on Made in Mascun 5.13a (7c+) and on-sighted it!! The day before I had tried a climb called Ixeia 5.14a (8b+) and had a pretty good first run on it so I decided to try a again, and got very close to sending it on my 2nd try of the day. Suddenly a big storm came upon us, but Andrea Szekely and Scott Cory both still sent Pata Negra 5.14b (8c) before it got too wet. Scott told me that he was getting hit by hail on the last few moves to the top…

On this one day, we decided to join Scott, Brian, and Cicada to go to "La Piscineta". This crag is about an hour hike away, as it is in another valley. But WOW!!! It was sooo worth the effort... The biggest cave of all!

Scott and Brian came here to work Cosi Fan Tutti 5.14c (8c+), a 150 feet constantly overhanging monster route. They used our 80 meter rope, and when they lowered, they had barely 3 inches of rope left in the grigri. I on-sighted Pim Pam Plouf 5.12c (7b+) for warm-up, and then went to try Pieds Nus sur la Terre Sacrée 5.13b (8a) which I also almost on-sighted. I was sure I was going to send it 2nd go, but I guess I was too tired on my 4th day on, and never got it done. Brian was able to send Cosi Fan Tutte a couple of days later. I will definitely try it next time I'm going to Rodellar.

Can you guess why it's called "El Delfin"

The next day after warming up, I tried to on-sight El Delphin 5.13a (7c+) and almost made it but some holds were wet, and my foot slipped off on one of them. So I lowered and sent 2nd go!! A few days later my brother Yolan was able to send it as well, his first 5.13 in a long time, as he’s been hurt for a while. Last year he came to Céüse only to learn a day earlier that his arm was broken…

On our second rest day we decided to try canyoning for a change. My parents used to do it a lot when they lived in the South of France, but I never got to try. So we went to try the Oscuros de Balcès canyon... Soooo much fun!!! We spent 3 hours rappelling in a waterfall, jumping into river pools, sliding, swimming, and even going through underwater holes. Definitely something I will try again!

Unfortunately, I had to wait five days to try Ixeia again, as most of the Tufas were wet due to seeping water.

So I went to try Welcome to Tijuana 5.14b (8c) a few times, and got all the moves figured out, but it still was a hard climb to link… In the end I just couldn’t get psyched on it, as it is a very short but very bouldery climb in a small chossy cave.
The long Tufa-lined climbs in "Las Ventanas" and "La Piscineta" were just sooooo much sicker, that I stopped trying Welcome, and just returned at the end of my last day to recover my quickdraws. I met Piotr Schab from Poland who had just sent Era Vella, his first 5.14d (9a) in Margalef a few days earlier at 15 years old…

It was frustrating to wait for Ixeia to dry out, but when I finally got back on it, it took me three tries and some changes in sequence (as some holds were still a little wet) to send Ixeia: My second ever 5.14a (8b+)!

I then tried the route just right of it, Espirit Rebeld 5.13d (8b) and got to the top in only 4 falls. I tried it again that same day and fell just once at the main crux.

Ramón Julián Puigblanque showed up and started on-sighting 5.14’s right next to us. He’s barely taller than me, but amazingly strong!
He on-sighted four or five 5.14a’s with barely 10 min breaks in between!!!
After that I went to try Le Branlotin 5.13c (8a+) and set the draws. I tried it twice but then we had to leave, as it was getting dark.

The next day I came painfully close to doing Espirit Rebeld falling after the main crux right before a giant knee-bar rest. I rested and calmed down for about an hour, and then sent it!! The next day was our last day and we went to Las Ventanas to warm-up and then went to Le Branlotin 5.13c (8a+) and I sent it first go!!! After that I tried a few hard on-sights but was so tired I just couldn't anymore.

Rodellar has been a great learning experience for me, because of all the drop-knees, knee-bars and lock-off's you have do, as well as dealing with Tufas which force you to constantly change your direction and balance or you pump out in no time. It really got me to improve a lot on my technique.

Now onto the Arco Rock Master Festival to compete in the Rock Junior International!!! We first stopped in Geneva to say goodbye to the family in Europe, and we drove my Mom, brother, and sister to the airport, as they had to return to the US a week earlier.

In Magic Wood my Dad asked me if I would be interested to climb in a big international competition. I wasn’t so sure, as I was still feeling a bit of pain from US Nationals, but he said I should think about it. Finally I said OK, and he answered, “Good, because I just signed you up at the Arco Rock Master Festival!!!”

So, at the end of our trip, my Dad and I drove to Arco in Italy so that I could participate in the Arco Rock Junior International during the Arco Rock Master Festival. I wanted to check out the competition scene in Europe, and Arco Rock Junior is one of the only Open International competitions that allow youth under 14 years old to compete.
  Arco is a really nice little town with old buildings that is built right under some large amazing limestone cliffs. It is full of climbers and bikers. We walked through the main shopping street, and I counted no less that 14 climbing stores. I got to visit them all too!!!   :)

The competition took place over two days, with three disciplines, speed climbing, bouldering, and sport climbing. Ultimately the title would go to the best all-around climber. I competed in the B category (born in 2001 and 2002). There were climbers from 17 countries, mostly Europe, as well as two from Ecuador, a Japanese girl, and an American (yours truly)... :)

  The first day was hard as we had speed climbing in the morning, bouldering in the afternoon, and sport qualifiers in the evening. We had two runs on the same speed route, and I posted the two best times of the comp finishing in 1st place in speed.

For bouldering, we had to complete six boulders with a maximum of five tries for each. I easily flashed problems 1, 3, 5, and 6. I should have flashed problem 2, but did a dumb mistake, and it took me three tries. Problem 4 was the hardest, and it took me three tries to top it out. I ended up being the only climber to top out all 6 problems, securing a 1st place in the bouldering competition as well.

In the evening we had our first sport route on the famous Arco Rock Master arch. I believe that it was rated around 7b, and I ended up being the only climber to get to the top. After the comp I met the Belgian National Team. They were very nice and invited us to dinner, which was really fun.

The next morning we only had the final sport route. I thought that it was pretty easy until five moves from the top, leading to a very hard move two moves from the top. Four of us ended-up all falling on that move, but I still placed 1^st in the sport climbing competition due to my qualifier top out.

1st Place all-around at the Arco 2012 Rock Junior by winning all 3 events!

Ok, that definitely made somewhat up for US Nationals!!!

1st Place Arco Rock Junior 2012

Tim Bucher from Switzerland took 2nd place, and Rafal Bak from Poland finished in 3rd place. The award ceremony was at 2pm, but by then it started to rain pretty hard, and so we had the award ceremony in pouring rain. All I can say is that it was definitely an adventure!!! I really liked this competition, and I hope I will be able to come back in the next few years. I just regret that I couldn’t stay to watch the Arco Rock Master, but I have to go back to school…

All in all it has been a long and amazing trip, and I’m definitely going back!!!! Hopefully sometime soon...

I’ve been away from home for 10 weeks since flying out to Atlanta!!! I sent ten 5.13a (7c+) to 5.14a (8b+) during my trip more than doubling my total in that range.

Last year I had sent my first and only 5.13a, but this spring and summer:

I have sent another 18 routes 5.13a to 5.14a!!!

For warm-ups and to improve my on-sighting skills, my Dad had me try climbs up to 5.12c (7c). At the beginning it annoyed me at times as I just wanted to get on hard projects, but after a while I started to like it. I on-sighted almost all of them…

During the trip, I also ended up sending at least one route for each grade between 5.10a (6a) and 5.14a (8b+)… I don’t know why, but that felt good too…

With Yu & Mizuki

During the trip I also made a ton of new friends, including Thoma (and his 4 brothers and sisters) and Antoine from France, Fabio and Tim from Switzerland, Thilo from Norway, Lena from Germany, Alex from Israel, Piotr from Poland, Yu and Mizuki from Japan, and Harold, Lionel, and John Alexandre from Belgium to name just a few.

Taking in the View with my brother, Yolan

Meditating with my brother, Yolan

God's Own Stone...

2012-05-11T20:14:00.000-07:00

After ABS 13 Nationals, my Dad and Drew's Dad Rudy decided to plan a trip together to the Red River Gorge. Drew's parents organized the whole thing and invited some other friends from competition. Unfortunately Kai was hurt and couldn't make it, but we climbed with Jake, Timmy, and Drew's brother Jono, and also met with Michaela at the Red.

This was our very first trip to the Red River Gorge, and we were sooo excited...

Our first day at the Red River Gorge was all about getting used to the rock and doing easy climbs... until we saw Golden Boy and God's Own Stone. They were so magnificent, striking, and esthetic lines we just couldn't resist trying them. Drew was so excited he jumped right on God's Own Stone. After he was done I jumped on it, and I was surprised on how hard the crux was (v9/10 like?). After that I tried Golden Boy with Jake and I almost flashed it. I felt good, I had gotten through most of the crux with only one move remaining. I took one last breath, stepped my foot up, 1...2...3!!!! I went for the dead point caught the hold and felt it slowly slip out of my grasp!!!! I felt like I had had a pretty good day with my onsight of Herd Mentality (5.12c), my attempt on God's Own Stone (5.14a), and my almost flash of Golden Boy (5.13b).

Bob Marley!!!! We all know who he is. So it was pretty funny when we found out that the little crag, we decided to spend our day at, was called Bob Marley Crag. We warmed up on kinda sketchy slabby warmups Mass Choss (5.11d) and Route 22 (5.12a). Then we onsighted Horn another 5.11d in an overhang near Ultra Perm. After that we were fully warmed up and we tried Ultra Perm (5.13d). Which went pretty well (Drew and I both made it all the way to the top with falls first go). After that it was way too hot to climb and we packed up and drove back to our cabin.

Monday we decided to take a rest day since our friend Timmy was arriving in the evening and he was only staying till Friday. We wanted to climb with him as much as we could.

Our 4th day we went to Gold Coast in the morning where I got very close to sending Golden Boy and God's Own Stone. Drew was also very close to sending God's Own Stone, and as it was Timmy's first day he got on a lot of easier stuff and he tried Herd Mentality and Golden Boy. In the afternoon we went to Bob Marley to try Ultra Perm. Drew and I came close to sending and Timmy gave it a really good onsight go but fell at the 5th bolt.

Wednesday started off with Drew sending God's Own Stone (5.14a)! That was awesome!!! Later that day we went to the Motherlode crag, and Drew and I both flashed Forty Ounces of Justice (5.13a) and Timmy flashed Kick me in the Jimmy (5.12). I got really really close to flashing Convicted (5.13a), but I just didn't have the juice at the end of the day and ended up falling 2 bolts from the top.

Thursday was a great day where I sent Golden Boy (5.13b), onsighted Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus (5.12c) and Supafly (5.12b), and then headed to the Motherlode and sent Convicted (5.13a). But later that night I got really sick with stomach flu and threw up all night. I had to take Friday off and stayed in bed with fever all day.

Saturday I woke up to the sound of raining outside which really worried me because I thought I wouldn't be able to climb. I was also stressed because I had less than two days left... I had sent all my other projects beside Ultra Perm, and decided not to try it again, and also gave up the idea of trying Madness and Bohica to focus on God's Own Stone. It turns out all of Gold Coast was completely dry!!! So I warmed up and got on it!!!! I wasn't really 100 percent sure I was going to send. I was just trying to have fun, but then first go I fell only once on the crux and then stuck the crux and brought it all the way to the top. I gave it a few more goes and then decided that I still wasn't fully recovered, so we decided to go to the Motherlode where I sent Skin Boat (5.13a).

Sunday I ate a good breakfast and headed back to God's Own Stone, and gave it a couple goes and got really close. I was stressed out and decided to leave and go rest a few hours and came back in the afternoon. I then sent God's Own Stone (5.14a) on my 3rd go!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well, you know what they say 3rd time's the charm...

My very first 5.14a!!!

So, my New Year's resolution was to send a V12 and a 5.14a. Guess what? I need a new New Year's resolution.

So then we headed to Miguel's Pizza and celebrated the success!!!!!

The Red River Gorge is awesome! Climbing with my friends from competition was really awesome!!! We're definitely coming back! Pity it's so far away...

2012 USAC ABS 13 Youth Bouldering National Championship

2012-03-10T19:18:00.000-08:00

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This past weekend I participated in the 2012 USAC ABS 13 Youth Bouldering National Championship. My Dad had to work in Colorado the prior week, so my Mom and I traveled with him.

On Tuesday I went to train at the Movement Climbing Gym in Boulder, and we met Lynn Hill. We talked for a while, and then she bouldered with me. It was just awesome meeting her, and Lynn was really nice! I also met Matty Hong and Jamie Emerson. Wednesday I trained for a couple of hours with Justen Sjong, who gave me lots of good advice, and Thursday I climbed at Cats with Tiffany Hensley and some of her friends. Boulder is just awesome! In the evening we drove to Colorado Springs where the US Nationals we happening over the weekend.

The first day was Qualifiers, and we had 4 climbs to complete with a 4 minutes time limit for each one followed by a 4 minutes rest before the next climb. What a long day that was!!!! About 35 competitors give or take per category and there were 10 categories!!! The first day climbs weren't that hard maybe around V5 for the hardest. I qualified for semi-finals tied for 1st place with 5 other climbers. Grace was really unlucky. She qualified for semi-finals, but then got very sick during the night, and couldn’t climb the next day.

For semi-finals on Saturday we only had 3 climbs. Semi-finals were pretty stressful because I knew the climbs were going to be harder as they needed to separate the field. Still, it was a good day as I ended up tied in first place with Joe Goodacre and qualified for Finals. My Zero Gravity Team did great as 7 of my team members also qualified for Finals. We went to have a fun dinner with the Ruana’s from Seattle. I was really nervous, amped up, and psyched all at the same time, and had a really hard time falling asleep.

Finals!!!!! 8:00 o'clock the alarm clock rings. 8:30 breakfast orange juice, toast, and hash browns. Walking into ISO I was starting to feel stressed out again. I was 20 minutes early so I set my bag down and talked to some of my friends. After about an hour and a half, I was pretty much warmed up and as I was packing up "Mirko Caballero please check in at the front desk and come downstairs"!!! Next thing I know I'm sitting waiting to climb. My first climb was a pretty straightforward slab, but it was thin and balancy, and I was very nervous. I got it on my 2nd try after a really dumb mistake on the 1st. Problem number two was really cool!!! After reading the beta I started up on the climb. "Breathe" I kept telling myself "Keep it together", "One more move!", and YA I can hear the crowd roar behind me. I had flashed it!!! By now I was getting super psyched so when I turned to look at the third route I knew I could do it and I had instant determination!!! About two thirds up I could hear the crowd cheering and I knew that I was getting to the hard part. Heel hook match left hand to a small crimp here it was 1…2…3… JUMP my feet cut I pull up and… caught the crux hold!!!!!! Next thing I knew I was at the top, the crowd roaring, I had done it again!

Mirko Caballero, 2012 USAC Youth-D Bouldering National Champion

2012 USAC ABS 13
National Champion!!!!!!!

I then spent time watching and encouraging my friends and team members.

Cicada climbed awesome and also won Gold! Jacquelyn took Silver. Josh finished 4^th and also got awarded The North Face Young Gun Award for this Year. That was sooooo deserved!!! Natalia took Bronze and Matt and Sam took 7^th place.
Ashima and Kai also won Gold. Drew climbed amazingly but he got shut out on the 2^nd problem as the start move was just waaayyy too big for him, but he flashed the 1^st problem, and almost flashed the 3^rd. He earned a 5^th place and a USA Team member jacket!

Zero Gravity Climbing Team 3rd Place

My Zero Gravity Team ended up taking 3^rd Place in the Team Ranking out of 70 teams!!!

After the comp I had lots of fun running around, playing and goofing with some of my friends I have made over the years competing. I like competing, and I like to fight to win, but it’s so great that after the comp we’re all just friends!

Rumor is Continental Championships will be in South America this Fall, and most of us should be invited as part of the USA National Team!!!

2012 USA Youth Bouldering Team

My First ever V12 (8A+)

2012-02-26T20:26:00.001-08:00

I went again to Bishop during my Ski Week Vacation to climb with my Zero Gravity Team friends. I was mostly planning to climb easier things and just have fun with my friends, seeing as I'm going to US Youth Bouldering National Championships next week-end.
But then on Monday some of my friends decided to work on Beef Cake (7C+) in the Ice Cave in the Sad Boulders. I went with them to help with beta, but then Scott Cory, one of my coaches, decided to work on The Aquarium (8A+) the extension of Aquatic Hitchhiker (7C+) which we both had previously sent. After working it with Scott I got psyched on it and felt I could send it.

The next day most of my friends had left, so Grace, Natalia and I decided to climb at the Happy Boulders where I sent Super Froz (7C) and Less Poetry Please (7B+), and onsighted Every Color You Are (7A+). I then saw Axel Ballay from France send Mr. Witty (7A+), and decided to give it a try. I sent it on my second go.
After a rest day, I went back working on The Aquarium and almost had it but kept falling on the last hard move. On our last day, I was starting to feel the stress of running out of time, but luckily I sent The Aquarium on my second go of the day. During the trip I also repeated my first ever 7C+, Beef Cake, and repeated Aquatic Hitchhiker (7C+) over 10 times while working The Aquarium...

Now off to ABS 13, US Youth Bouldering National Championships in Colorado Springs!!!

My First Bouldering Video

2012-01-31T11:37:00.000-08:00

My Mom, Dad and some of my friends have been recording some of my climbs, so I decided to try to make a video. My brother Yolan helped me a little to figure out how to use iMovie, and then I started to edit my first video. So here is the video from my trips to Bishop and Hueco Tanks this fall and winter.

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X-Mas in Red Rocks and New Year in Bishop

2012-01-11T18:44:00.000-08:00

Pow Pow V8, Bishop

So for my winter break we spent a few days and X-Mas in Red Rocks where we had a lot of fun climbing and hanging out with our friends, the Surma's. I mostly focused on bouldering but did do some sport climbing too. If I had to choose, my favorite line in Red Rocks would probably be Fear the Black Cat V9 on the Cube boulder. It's kind of a highball line with some big moves on a mix of small crimps and big jugs. I didn't get to send it, but got pretty close...

After that we headed to Bishop. I didn't send that much there, except I finally sent my long time project Soul Slinger V9, as well as Water Hazard V10 on my 2nd try after falling off the last move because of my foot popping off. I worked Water Hazard with Nick who sent it as well as his first V10 ever!!! Nick got to work it the previous day with Alex Honnold. He's soooo lucky!!! Zak sent Soul Slinger the same day as I did, but at night with flash lights. That was sick!!!

The rest of the trip I spent time hanging out and climbing with my friends. I helped Natalia send her first V7, and also climbed with Nate, Garrett, Sami, Niamh, and Clara.

All in all I had a great time and can't wait to go back, but in the mean time I'll be pulling on some Plastic to get ready for Bouldering Divisionals in Seattle in January.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!! 2012 is going to be the best year EVER!!!!!!

Actually it started well already, as I sent Acid Wash Right V9 on my last day in Bishop. A V9 as my last hard sent of 2011, and a V9 as my first hard sent of 2012...

And then the drive back was awesomely short, as Tioga Pass was still open!!! We saw lots of people skating on Tenaya Lake in Tuolumne.

Mirko

Urban Climber Article Extract

P.S. I got in the News!!! First I was covered as one of 9 Young Guns in Urban Climber. Then I got a cool interview on 8a.nu, and a little blurb in Outdoor Actual...

Bishop Thanksgiving 2011

2012-01-11T14:07:00.000-08:00

For the past 5 days I have been in Bishop bouldering and hanging out with friends. We spent our first day of the trip in the Buttermilks. I mostly did easier classics including onsighting Ironman V4 and Ironman footless V6 just for fun. I also onsighted Go Granny Go V5, Go Granny Right V5, and Leary/Bard Arete V5. On the 2nd day we went to the Happy Boulders where I repeated Serengeti V5, Sucker Punch V5, and Bleached Bones V4. Isaac, the new head coach from Planet Granite dared me to campus Serengeti. At first I didnt think I could do it, and just gave it a half assed try, but realized it was possible, and then I sent it on my second attempt. Another of my climbs was my onsight of Redrum V7. Our 3rd day we spent in the Sad Boulders where I tried Shizaam Full Sit Start V11. To my surprise, I was able to send it within a couple of hours after trying a crazy dyno beta suggested by my Dad. My 2nd V11 just 2 weeks after Schwerer Gustov in Hueco Tanks. I also sent Pow Pow V8, and Ow Ow V8 on my third go. The 4th day we were back in the Buttermilks where spent most of the day projecting different climbs. I still sent send some things like my onsight of Smooth Shrimp V6, Perfectly Chicken V5, Go Granny Go V5, Go Granny Right V5, and Go Granny Ho. My 5th day was once again in the Sad Boulders where I repeated Hauck A Loogie Elimanate V7 and also projected Beefy Gecko V11. I really thought it was going to go, but I kept falling off the last hard dyno move repeatedly... By the time I figured out how to do it, I was too tired to link it. It will go Next time for sure... I'm still very happy of the success I had in the trip, and had lots of fun climbing with Nate, Nick, Natalia, Alexi, Sami, Niamh, Matt, Seth and all my other friends.

Amazing November 2011

2011-12-20T22:13:00.000-08:00

I had a pretty great year competing, as I won the US National titles for Bouldering and Speed Climbing, and finished 2nd in Sport Climbing in the Youth-D category.

I also sent my first V10 in Bishop in January, and my first 5.13a in Jailhouse in June.

But this last month has just been amazing!!!

I was kinda dreaming, hoping, fantasizing, that I could maybe send a V11 before I turned 11, and believe it or not, I did just that, sending Schwerer Gustov, V11 during my first ever trip to Hueco Tanks by the way Dad: I need to go back there...). During that week I also sent Fern Roof V10 which is a really cool problem (check out the photo).

Just 2 weeks later I sent Shizam Full Sit Start, V11 in Bishop, and a week after that again in Bishop, I sent Beefy Gecko V11, and Slow Dance V10. Three V11, two V10, and two V9, in less than a month!

All in all I've sent 15 bouldering problems V8 or higher so far in 2011, including three V11 and four V10, and I'm still going to Red Rocks for Christmas, and Bishop for New Year...

So Psyched!!! I know I probably can't keep this up, but I'll take it for now...

Mirko

Hueco Tanks

2011-11-15T21:24:00.000-08:00

So I just came back from my first ever trip to Hueco Tanks where I spent 5 days climbing and just having fun. Over the course of those 5 days I tried and got super super close on two v12's but couldn't send them. Next time... But... some climbs I did send included Baby Martini v6, Speed Bumb v7, unknown v7, Beer Can Traverse v9, Fern Roof v10, and Schwerer Gustov v11. That was my first v11 ever!!! All in all I had a really great time and I can't wait to go back.

2011 US Youth National Championships Sport & Speed Climbing 2011

2011-07-06T18:53:00.000-07:00

Tomorrow I'll be competing in the Youth National Championships held in the freaking awesome Stone Summit Climbing Gym in Hotlanta, GA. while I am very exited and ready to crush, I am also a bit nervous. But since I have been at this gym for two weeks already to train with the national coach Claudiu Vidulescu, I am feeling very confident about my chances. I will be keeping everyone up to date as the days go on so stay tuned for more blog posts.

Qualifiers Day 1
Today I competed in day 1 of the qualifiers and in sport climbing. I ended up getting 1st place tied with 23 other people in sport. The qualifier route was not very hard but there was a weird slabby section at the top and if you did not move your feet up you were done for, as long as you remembered to keep your feet high you were good. In speed I got first place with a time of 8.25 seconds. I know I definitely could have done better because on each run I was in for a 7 but at the very top of each route I slipped and lost some time and ended with 8.25. So overall I feel like I did really well and I am very happy about my performance today and hope I do as well tomorrow.

Qualifiers Day 2
Second day of qualifiers, and I flashed my sport route again. Only 4 climbers flashed today's route. It really wasn't that hard but it was an overhanging roof so you had to keep your core tight and at the end you were a bit sore. Once you got in the roof section it was basically tracking feet which means that the hand holds were also your foot holds. I also competed in speed semi-finals, and I got much faster than yesterday, because I was racing my friend Seth who's pretty fast too, and we pushed each other. My fastest time was 7.03 seconds which is more than a second faster than my time yesterday, and earned me first place again. I am very proud of my improvement in speed and I think I did very well in sport climbing.

Semi-Finals
Today was the semi-finals in the competition, and our route was a slab. It was pretty hard because it was very very balancy I could have gotten it but at the very top I got stuck and could not decide what to do and I got pumped and when I finally went for the move I fell off. I still finished in first place, so today was definitely a good day.

Finals
I was totally psyched for finals in speed tonight seeing as I didn't flash the semi-finals route. Today I ended up in first place anyway but it would have been a great feeling to flash the route. For Speed Finals today I had the greatest runs of my life, my times ended up being 6.21 and 6.12 giving me the 2011 Speed National Champion title!!!!! I'm psyched for sport climbing finals tomorrow!!!!!

The route today was pretty sustained with not that much hard moves just kind of balance and pretty technical about 4 moves from the top I made an error and my foot popped and I barn doored off the wall. I ended up in second place which is still amazing. I was really bummed on not winning but at the beginning of the year if someone told me I was going to be two time national champion and one 2nd place I would have taken it!!!

Mirko

My First Write-up in a Climbing Magazine

2011-07-04T03:10:00.000-07:00

Check it out... I just got my first write-up in Dead Point Magazine!!!

10-year-old Mirko Caballero sends 5.13 at Jailhouse

So psyched!!!

Mirko

Training Camp

2011-07-03T19:32:00.000-07:00

For the past two weeks I have been at a climbing training camp in Atlanta with Claudiu Vidulescu, the US Team's Head Coach, and two other great coaches, Chelsea and Scot.

This was my first time away from my family for a long period, so I was a bit anxious at first. But as soon as I got to the camp I recognized a few familiar faces, Josh Levin and Alex "Socks" Johnson among others, and felt right at home. In total we are almost 40 kids, and we train 7 hours a day for 3 days in a row, and then we have a day off.

The Atlanta Gym is amazing!!! I thought that my home gym (Planet Granite in Sunnyvale) was great, but Stone Summit seems even higher and so much more overhang. On top of that they allow me to lead climb and lead belay here, which is really cool! At PG I have to top rope for another 2 years, as I have to be 12 years old before they'll allow me to lead climb.

During the past 12 days at the camp, I on-sighted every 5.12 in the gym, on-sighted a 5.13b and sent a 5.13d. I also made a lot of progress in speed climbing, and the coaches helped me work on my rope climbing technique, focusing on good resting, faster climbing, and precise foot work.

After the camp, I'll stay in Atlanta for a few more days, to compete at US Nationals in Sport & Speed Climbing next week-end, right here in the same Gym. Wish me luck!

Mirko