My electronic

Tabel resistor

2013-01-24T06:31:00.000-08:00

Menghitung nilai resistor dengan bantuan tabel

Controler Kecepatan Motor AC

2013-01-24T06:20:00.001-08:00

This AC motor speed controller can handle most universal type (brushed) AC motors and other loads up to about 250W. It works in much the same was a light dimmer circuit; by chopping part of the AC waveform off to effectively control voltage. Because of this functionality, the circuit will work for a wide variety of loads including incandescent light bulbs, heating elements, brushed AC motors and some transformers. The circuit tries to maintain a constant motor speed regardless of load so it is also ideal for power tools. Note that the circuit can only control brushed AC motors. Inductive motors require a variable frequency control.

Part yang dibutuhkan:

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1	1	27K 1W Resistor
R2	1	10K 1/4W Resistor
R3	1	100K 1/4W Resistor
R4	1	33K 1/4W Resistor
R5	1	2.2K 1/4W Resistor
R6	1	1K 1/4W Resistor
R7	1	60K Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R8	1	3K Linear Taper Trim Pot
R9	1	5K Linear Taper Pot
R10	1	4.7K Linear Taper Trim Pot
R11	1	3.3K 1/4W Resistor
R12	1	100 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R13	1	47 Ohm 1W Resistor (See Notes)
C1, C3	2	0.1uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C2	1	100uF 50V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1	1	6V Zener Diode
Q1	1	2N2222 NPN Transistor	2N3904
SCR1	1	ECG5400
TR1	1	TRIAC (See Notes)
U1	1	DIAC Opto-Isolator (See Notes)
BR1, BR2	2	5A 50V Bridge Rectifier
T1	1	Transformer (See Notes)
MISC	1	PC Board, Case, Line Cord, Socket For U1, Heatsinks

Saklar Cahaya Automatis

2013-01-22T20:50:00.002-08:00

Skema Rangkaian Berikut berfungsi untuk saklar cahaya automatis,
Skema Rangkaian

From the moment that T4 and T5 are opened, relay’s LED start to light and powers the lamp. As soon as one of the transistors is blocked the lamp will go OFF. The phototransistor T3 will be the one that blocks T5 if there is light that falls on T3. The T2′s base-emitter junction is connected in parallel with T3 and so will be blocked as long there is light. T2 will continuously resest IC1 whose counter outputs will be in “0″ state.

When the night falls R7 provides base current for T2 and the transistor starts to conduct. The counter can now starts to count the impulses from the internal oscillator and in this time the light will bulb will stay lit. After a time, when the output of Q13 goes in state “1″ T4 is blocked. This causes the relay’s LED to go off and the lamp too.

There is no need for external power supply because the light sensor switch is powered directly from the 220V mains. D1 … D5 diodes rectifies the voltage and C4 filters it.
C5 is working as a resistor so will need to have the working voltage of minimum 400V but the 630V is preferable.

S202DS2 is a Triac-Full-Wave-Output Optocoupler produced by Sharp Electronics in a TO-220 package.
The maximum peak-to-peak voltage is 600V, max on-state current is 8 Ampere and the input trigger current is 8 mA.

Caution! This circuit is powered directly from 220V. Attention will be given for appropriate isolation of the switch block.

IR Remote Extender Circuit

2012-07-23T07:32:00.004-07:00

This IR Remote extender can increase the range of most simple ir remote (those operating on a 40KHz modulation) a signivicant distance.In use ,the remote is pointed toward the detector on the circuit,and a button is pressed.The sharp IR detector then decodes the 40KHz modulated signal into a series of pulse,which trigger a 555 timer.The 555 outputs pulses which are re-modulated and used to drive an IR LED.The circuit is excellent for use in a large room like a presentation hall where a typical IR remote is a bit weak .By extending the wires to the output LED(using shielded cable) you can control a device where line of sight isn't avalaible (such as a wall full of TVS in another room).

Part :

Part	Total QTY	Description	Substitution
R1,R6	2	10K 1/4 Resistor	gd
R2	1	1K 1/4 Resistor	gd
R3	1	10K linear Pot	gd
R4	1	2.2K 1/4 Resistor	gd
R5	1	4.7Ohm 1/4W Resistor	gd
C1	1	0.01 uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor	gd
Q1,Q2	2	2N3904 NPN Transistor	gd
D1	1	IR LED	gd
U1	1	GP1U52X IR Module	gd
U2	1	TLC555 CMOS Timer	gd
MISC	1	Board,Socket for U2,Wire	gd

Note:

Only the CMOS TLC555 timer can be used in this circuit. The original NE555 cannot operate reliably at 40KHz. Acceptable substitutions are shown in the parts list.
Almost all powerful IR LEDs can be used for D1 if the appropriate value of R5 is chosen.
To calibrate the circuit, use a frequency counter. Connect it in parallel with D1 and then ground the base of Q1. Adjust R3 for 40KHz on the counter. If a counter is not available, you will just have to point a remote at the circuit, press a button, and then adjust R3 until it works. This can take a few tries as not all remotes transmit continuously.
If you intend to remotely mount D1 any great distance, you will need to use shielded cable. Connect the shield to circuit ground.

40W Fluorescent Lamp Inverter

2012-07-22T07:20:00.003-07:00

This 40 w Flourescent lamp inverter allows you to run 40 w flourescent tubes from any 12 v source capable of delivering 3A.This is a basically a large version of the 12 v DC flourescent lamp driver and can be used to light regular or blacklight tubes.

Part :

Part	Ttl QTY	Description	Substitution
R1	1	180 Ohm 1W Resistor
R2	1	47 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R3	1	22 Ohm 1W Resistor (Only needed once)
C1, C2	2	100 uF16V Electrolytic Capacitor
C3	1	100 nF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
Q1	1	TIP 3055 or 2N3055 or equivalent
L1	1	see "Notes"
T1	1	see "Notes"
Misc	1	Wire,Case,Board,Heaatsink for Q1,Heatshrink,AM antenna rod for coil

Notes :
1.Email Bart Milnes with questions, comments, etc.

2.Wind L1/T1. You will need an AM antenna rod that is about 60mm (2.5 inches) long to wind T1/L1 on. T1/L1 are wound on the same core. Shrink a layer of heatshrink over the core to insulate it. Leave 50mm of wire at each end of the coils.
Primary: Wind 60 turns of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire on the first layer and put a layer of heatshrink over it.
Feedback: Wind 13 turns of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire on the core and then heatshrink over that.
Secondary: This coil has 450 turns of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire in three layers. Wind one layer and then heatshrink over it. Do the same for the next two.
Transformer/Inductor Winding

3.Calibrate/test the circuit. To calibrate/set up the circuit connect the 2.2 Ohm 1W resistor (R3) in series with the positive supply. Connect a 40W fluorescent tube to the high voltage ends of the transformer. Momentarily connect power. If the tube doesn't light immediately reverse the connections of L1. If the tube still doesn't work, check all connections. When you get the tube to light remove the 2.2 ohm resistor and the circuit is ready for use. You will not need R3 again.

4.This circuit is designed for 220V lamps. It will work with 120V units just fine, but will shorten the life of the tube.

5.This page has been extensively rewritten by Bart Milne. (15/3/01)

12V DC Flourescent Lamp Driver

2012-07-22T06:56:00.001-07:00

Here it is,it uses a normal 120 to 6v stepdown transformer in reverse to step 12v to about 350v to drive a lamp without the need to warm the fiolaments.

Part :

Part	Total QTy	Description	Substitution
C1	1	100 uf 25v electrolytic Capacitor	d
C2,C3	2	0,01 uf 25v Ceramic Disc Capacitor	d
C4	1	0,01 uf 1Kv Ceramic Disc Capacitor	d
R1	1	1K 1/4W Resistor	d
R2	1	2,7K 1/4W Resistor	d
Q1	1	IRF 510 MOSFET	d
U1	1	TLC555 Timer IC	d
T1	1	6V 300mA Transformer	d
LAMP	1	4W Fluorescent Lamp	d
MISC	1	Board,Wire,Heatsink for Q1	d

Notes :

Q1 must be installed on a heatsink
A 240v to 10v transformer will work better then the one in the part list.The problem is that they are hard to fine.
This circuit can give a nasty (but not dangerous) shock.Be careful around the output leads.

Electromagnetic Levitator Circuit

2012-05-04T19:41:00.001-07:00

This circuit creates a stunning display of the "magic" of magnetism by suspending a small metal object in mid air. Using an electromagnet, photo sensor and closed loop control, small and light metal objects can be floated just underneath the magnet, enclosed in a decorative arch. "No strings" are easily demonstrated by the ability to pick the metal object out of the air and place it back under the magnet at will. With the object floating about 1/4" under the magnet (exact distance will depend on the weight of the object), an LED and photo transistor arrangement let a feedback circuit know it's position. The circuit controls current to an electromagnet to maintain an equilibrium between the force of the magnet and gravity. Thus, the object floats. Impart a bit of a spin to the object and momentum will carry it for quite a long time as the only friction working against it is between the object and the air.
Circuit Assembly

This project is built in two sections; the circuit and then the enclosure/base. Assembly of the circuit should take place on a printed circuit board to minimize the chance of oscillation and to keep the assembly need and compact. A printed circuit board pattern is provided below. Before using it as a template for your board (using either a photographic or laser process) it is important to check its dimensions when printed. Make a test print on regular paper and then measure the result, comparing it to the measurement shown on the board pattern. If they don't match, you will need to adjust your printing settings or scale the pattern in the photo editing software of your choice. While a tiny amount of variance will not make much of a difference, about 1MM is enough to make fitting ICs very difficult. Once you are satisfied your pattern is correct, etch the board using the method of your choice and then drill out component lead holes.

Assemble the parts onto the board using the parts placement diagram shown below. Make sure to check the position of all polarized parts against the schematic before they are soldered into the board. ICs, diodes, transistors, electrolytic capacitors and LEDs must be placed properly or they will not function and may be damaged.

As the board will be mounted into a case, some components are mounted off board with wire leads connecting them to the PCB. D1, D3, Q1, R9, L1 and S1 should be connected to the board via wire leads. S1, R9 and D3 should be on leads about 6" to allow mounting on the front of the case. Q1 and D1 will require longer leads (about 8-10") as they will be mounted on the bracket supporting the electromagnet. L1, the magnet, needs enough lead length to get it to the top of that bracket so use between 12" and 14" of wire.

L1 is the electromagnet coil assembly from a Potter & Brumfield KUP11D15-6VDC relay. Pull the relay casing off and then remove the coil assembly by snapping its bracket from the plastic bottom. Be careful not to damage the coil windings or the fragile leads connecting the coil to the pins. The KUP11D15 is available from many online suppliers and quite likely through your local electronics store. It was commonly used in HVAC so if you are having trouble locating it through an electronics supplier, try a heating and cooling supplier. The relay is in a socket type case with a clear plastic cover. Substitutions are also available from several manufacturers and most relays having similar physical dimensions will also work as long as the coil voltage is the same. If you can't find the P&B relay or you wish to experiment you can of course wind your own coil. Use very thin magnet wire (34 or 35 gauge) and wind about 100 feet onto a 1/4" bolt which has been cut to a lenth of 1.5". By chucking the bolt into an electric drill you can make winding easy but be very careful to control the wire speed as it will turn into a razor blade if moving quickly.

The circuit runs on 12V supplied from a 12VDC 500MA "wall wart" power adapter. This keeps the size of the base small and desk-friendly.

Schematic

Printed Circuit Board Layout

Printed Circuit Board Parts Placement

Part :

R1    1    2K 1/4W Resistor
R2    1    560 Ohm 1/2W Resistor
R3    1    3.3K 1/4W Resistor
R4    1    12K 1/4W Resistor
R5, R6, R14, R16    4    1K 1/4W Resistor
R7    1    470K 1/4W Resistor
R8, R10    2    100K 1/4W Resistor
R9    1    10K Linear Pot
R11    1    150K 1/4W Resistor
R12    1    360K 1/4W Resistor
R13    1    82 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R15    1    2.2K 1/4W Resistor
C1    1    330uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C2    1    0.1uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C3    1    0.22uF 50V Polyester Capacitor
D1    1    TLN110 IR LED
D2    1    1N4001 Silicon Rectifier Diode    1N4004, 1N4007
D3    1    Red LED
Q1    1    IRD500 NPN Phototransistor
Q2    1    2N3906 PNP Transistor
Q3, Q4    2    2N3904 NPN Transistor
Q6    1    2N2907 PNP Transistor
Q7    1    TIP41A NPN Power Transistor
U1    1    LM78L09 9V Linear Regulator IC
U2    1    LM358N Dual Op-Amp IC
L1    1    Potter & Brumfield KUP11D15-6VDC Relay Coil    (See Text)
S1    1    SPST Switch
MISC    1    PC Board, Sockets For ICs, 12VDC 500mA Power Adapter, Wire, Knob For R9, Heatsink For Q7, Holder For D1 and Q1, DC Power Jack

Enclosure and Base Aessembly

With the circuit complete, the next task is to assemble the physical structure. It is divided into two parts; the enclosure (which houses the magnet) and the base (which houses the circuit).

The enclosure is built out of a 1" wide section of 4" OD 1/8" wall aluminum square tubing. You can find this tubing at the local metal supplier but you may be forced to buy a 10, 12 or 20 foot length. Most communities have a retail metal shop that will sell in smaller quantities. These same shops will often also cut to the dimensions you need for free or a small fee. If you don't have a retail metal shop handy then check out the big box home improvement stores, or a local farm supplier. Drill a hole of an appropriate diameter (this depends on your coil) in the middle of the top of the tubing. Now mount the coil, running the wires down the back of the tubing. Then, drill a hole on each side 1" down from the top. Size the hole according to the LED holder you are using as this size can vary. Be sure to keep the holes as perfectly aligned as possible. If you are going to experiment with a different electromagnet or objects of various sizes, it will be helpful to make two slots instead of holes so that the LED and photo transistor can be moved up and down. Lighter objects can float farther from the coil which requires the optical components to be moved down to the same level. Mount the LED and photo transistor in their respective holders and secure them to the tubing using the nut or snap ring supplied with the holder.

Drill the front of your base to accept S1, R9 and D3 and mount the components. The exact project case you choose for your base will depend on your individual tastes and how you wish to decorate the bracket. Wherever you position these components, make sure they will not interfere with the top of the base or your ability to mount the circuit board.

Mount a jack to match your DC power adapter at the back of the base.

Enclosure and Base Assembly Diagram

Final Assembly

Mount the enclosure assembly to the top of your base using two small bolts and appropriate nuts. Whether you chose to center it or mount if off to one side will depend on how you intend to decorate it. Left raw, the enclosure is best positioned in the center as the exposed machinery will create a more precise look. If decoration is used, turning the levitator into a pencil holder for example, the enclosure is best mounted to one side so the pencil cup can be placed beside it.

Using a bit of creativity, covers for the exposed tubing and mechanical components can be made using many common materials. Cardboard, Plexiglas, Lexan, wood, glass and stone are some possibilities. Chose your material based on the types of objects you are most likely to float.

Testing And Operation

The Electromagnetic Levitator is best operated in a location away from strong light sources that may interfere with the optical components. Enclosing them in some kind of decoration will go a long way to both improving the aesthetics and minimizing interference. Make sure that S1 is turned off, then plug in the power adapter and turn R9 fully counterclockwise. D3 should be of at this point. Slowly turn R9 and observe D3. At some point, D3 should turn on. If you keep turning R9, it will turn off again. Adjust R9 just to the point where the LED is off, which should be about half way.

You need an object to levitate so find a small and light steel object. Something like a key chain trinket, small hallow steel globe or beer bottle cap is ideal. The size of the object will depend on how close you are willing to keep it to the coil (by adjusting the position of D1 and Q1) and the coil you use. The specified relay coil is best suited for very light objects. Slowly lift your object towards the coil while making sure not to block the IR beam with your fingers. If R9 is adjusted properly the object will be lifted from your hand as you bring it near the coil, and suspended in mid air. If it oscillates up and down, back off on R9 slowly.

Non-metallic and heavier objects can be levitated by attaching a small magnet. Remember that the polarity of the magnet must be opposite of the coil as to be attracted and not repelled so if your object is shot away from the coil, reverse the magnet.

Electronic Dice Circuit

2012-04-02T08:31:00.000-07:00

An electronic dice is a classic first project for those getting interested in electronics. A timer, counter and a few LEDs makes a circuit that can also add a new twist to some old boring board games. When the switch is pressed, a 555 timer in astable mode pulses a BCD counter which lights up a series of LEDs wired to mimic a dice. Two AND gates are used to reset the count back to one whenever the BCD output is seven. Thus, the circuit is not truly random but the natural bounce present in a pushbutton and the normal human ability to operate much slower then the oscillator make the output of the circuit seem random.
SCHEMATIC:

PART :

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1,R5,R6	3	22K 1/4W Resistor
R2	1.	10K 1/4W Resistor
R3	1.	4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R4	1.	150K 1/4W Resistor
R7-R13	7	330 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
C1	1	1uF Electrolytic Capacitor
C2	1	4.7uF Electrolytic Capacitor
D1	1	1N4148 Signal Diode
D2-D8	7	Red/Green/Yellow LED
Q1	1	2N3904 NPN Transistor
U1	1	555 Timer IC
U2	1	74LS192 4 Bit Counter IC
U3	1	74LS08 Quad Intengreted AND Gate IC
S1	1	SPST Momentary Pushbutton Switch
MISC	1	Board, Wire, Sockets For ICs, Case

NOTES :

Pushing and holding S1 causes the LEDs to rapidly cycle. Releasing the button locks the pattern and shows a number from 1 to 6.
When building the circuit, make sure to position the LEDs as shown on the schematic. Otherwise the pattern of the dice will look weird.
Two circuits can of course be both powered by one switch to make a dual dice.

IR Remote Switch Circuit

2012-02-18T23:45:00.000-08:00

This circuit lets you control any line powered electrical device (a lamp, television, fan, etc.) using any infra-red remote control. Almost everyone these days has a pile of old IR remotes left over from appliances they have long ago disposed of them. With this circuit, you can put them back into use. The circuit looks for any modulated IR source and uses it to control a TRIAC, which then switches any appliance connected to it's socket. For example, you can use it to control the room lighting in your home theater setup using any of the remotes you already have. The circuit is powered using a simple transformerless power supply from the line itself, making it compact and easily built into a light switch, wall box, power bar or even the appliance you wish to control.
Schematic :

Printed Circuit Board Layout

Printed Circuit Board Parts Placement

PART:

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1	1	3 Meg 1/4W Resistor
R2	1	1.2 Meg 1/4W Resistor
R3	1	680 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R4	1	2K 1/4W Resistor
R5	1	4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R6	1	150 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
C1	1	0.001uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C2, C5	2	1uF 50V Tantalum Electrolytic Capacitor
C3	1	47uF 50V Tantalum Electrolytic Capacitor
C4	1	10uF 50V Tantalum Electrolytic Capacitor
C5	1	150 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
D1	1	1N4733 5V Zener Diode
D2	1	1N4003 Rectifier Diode
Q1	1	2N6071A TRIAC
U1	1	GP1U52X IR Module
U2	1	MC74HC74 D-Type Flip Flop
U3	1	MOC3011 Opto Isolator
MISC	1	Board, Sockets For ICs, Mains Socket, Mains Plug and Cord, Wire

Note

Under normal circumstances, Q1 should not need a heatsink.
The circuit is designed for a supply voltage of 120V.
The printed circuit pattern is reproduced here larger then real life for clarity. It will need to be resized to the scale at the bottom of the image if you intend to transfer it to a board.
The circuit functions as an on/off flip flop. Illuminate it with your remote once to turn it on, then again to turn it off.

40W Fluorescent Lamp Inverter

2012-02-07T03:08:00.000-08:00

This 40W fluorescent lamp inverter allows you to run 40W fluorescent tubes from any 12V source capable of delivering 3A. This is basically a larger version of the 12VDC Fluorescent Lamp Driver and can be used to light regular or blacklight tubes.

PART :

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1	1	180 Ohm 1W Resistor
R2	1	47 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R3	1	2.2 Ohm 1W Resistor (only needed once)
C1, C2	2	100uF 16V Electrolytic Capacitor
C3	1	100nF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
Q1	1	TIP 3055 or 2N3055 or equivalent
L1	1	See "Notes"
T1	1	See "Notes"
MISC	1	Wire, Case, Board, Heatsink For Q1, heatshrink, AM antenna rod for coil

Note

Email Bart Milnes with questions, comments, etc.
Wind L1/T1. You will need an AM antenna rod that is about 60mm (2.5 inches) long to wind T1/L1 on. T1/L1 are wound on the same core. Shrink a layer of heatshrink over the core to insulate it. Leave 50mm of wire at each end of the coils.
Primary: Wind 60 turns of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire on the first layer and put a layer of heatshrink over it.
Feedback: Wind 13 turns of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire on the core and then heatshrink over that.
Secondary: This coil has 450 turns of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire in three layers. Wind one layer and then heatshrink over it. Do the same for the next two.
Calibrate/test the circuit. To calibrate/set up the circuit connect the 2.2 Ohm 1W resistor (R3) in series with the positive supply. Connect a 40W fluorescent tube to the high voltage ends of the transformer. Momentarily connect power. If the tube doesn't light immediately reverse the connections of L1. If the tube still doesn't work, check all connections. When you get the tube to light remove the 2.2 ohm resistor and the circuit is ready for use. You will not need R3 again.
This circuit is designed for 220V lamps. It will work with 120V units just fine, but will shorten the life of the tube.
This page has been extensively rewritten by Bart Milne. (15/3/01)

3 Channel Spectrum Analyzer

2012-02-07T03:04:00.000-08:00

This 3 channel 15 LED spectrum analyzer is the perfect addition to any audio amp project. It produces fantastic displays on three LED bars that can be individually adjusted for any particular frequency range. The circuit will take line level output from most any audio source, and operates on 12V DC. This means that it can even be run in a car.

PART :

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1	1	100K 1/4W Resistor
R2	1	820K 1/4W Resistor
R3, R14, R16, R18	4	2.2 Meg 1/4W Resistor
R4, R5, R6	3	22K Pot
R7, R8, R9, R25, R27, R29	6	10K 1/4W Resistor
R10, R11, R12	3	680 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R13. R15, R17	3	580K 1/4W Resistor
R19, R20, R21	3	39K 1/4W Resistor
R22, R23, R24	3	47K 1/4W Resistor
R26, R28, R30	3	33 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
C1, C5, C6	3	0.012uF Polystyrene Capacitor
C2, C9, C10, C11	4	3.3uF Electrolytic Capacitor
C3, C4	2	0.0022uF Polystyrene Capacitor
C7, C8	2	47nF Polystyrene Capacitor
C12, C13, C14	3	0.47uF Electrolytic Capacitor
C15, C16, C17	3	22uF Electrolytic Capacitor
D1, D2, D3	3	1N4002 Silicon Diode
D4, D5, D6, D8, D8	5	Green LED
D10, D11, D12, D13, D14	5	Amber LED
D16, D17, D18, D19, D20	5	Red LED
U1	1	LM3900 Quad Op Amp
U2, U3, U4	3	AN6884 Bar Graph IC
MISC	1	Board, Wires, Sockets For ICs

The circuit expects line level inputs. If you connect it to speaker level, you will have to readjust the circuit every time you change the volume.
After the circuit is connected, apply power and signal. Now adjust the pots until the corresponding group of LEDs reacts.
Thanks to Alterac for correcting some errors on the schematic that originally appeared on this page. Read all about it in the 3 Channel Spectrum Analyzer Project thread in the forum.

Mono To Stereo Synthesizer

2012-01-05T06:21:00.000-08:00

This circuit attempts to liven up mono sound sources by simulating a stereo signal. It does this by shifting certain frequencies between left and right to fool the ear. It can often produce a passable mock stereo sound to bring some depth to otherwise flat recordings. Of course, there is no way to produce real stereo sound from a purely mono source unless the synthesizer had a way to tell which direction the original sound came from, but an illusion is generally enough for all but the hard core audiophile.
Schematic :

Part :

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1	1	4.7K 1/4W Resistor
R2	1	10K 1/4W Resistor
R3	1	12K 1/4W Resistor
R4, R6	2	22K 1/4W Resistor
R5	1	11.K 1% 1/4W Resistor
R7	1	16K 1/4W Resistor
R8	1	100K 1/4W Resistor
R9	1	24K 1/4W Resistor
R10	1	18K 1/4W Resistor
C1	1	0.1uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C2, C3	2	0.47uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C4, C5, C7	3	0.01uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C6	1	0.013uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C8, C9	2	4.7uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C10	1	0.22uF Capacitor
C11	1	47uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C12	1	100uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1	1	LED (Red, Green or Orange)
U1	1	TBA3810 (442-794)
S1	1	SPDT Switch
S2	1	SPST Switch
J1, J2, J3	3	RCA Jack	Other suitable jack
MISC	1	PC Board, Wire, Case, Holder for D1, Socket for U1

Notes :

This circuit was sent in by oRbEq (email address unavailable).
S2 controls power to the circuit. Switching S1 to ground bypasses the circuit and outputs mono sound to both output jacks. Setting S1 to R1 enables the synthesized stereo sound at the outputs.
The circuit draws very little current and can thus be powered by most any well filtered 9V-12V source (including a standard 9V radio battery).

Wireless Auto Tachometer

2012-01-03T07:15:00.000-08:00

Anyone performing their own automobile tune-ups knows how important it is to know your engines speed. With this tachometer, you can measure your engines speed without any connections or annoying timing lights.
Schematic:

PC board layout and parts placement

part :

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
C1	1	0.47uF Capacitor
C2	1	47uF Electrolytic Capacitor
D1	1	8V 1W Zener Diode
D2, D3, D4	3	1N914 Diode
M1	1	200uA Meter
Q1, Q2	2	2N3391A Transistor
R1, R2, R9	3	1K 1/2 W Resistor
R3	1	47K 1/2 W Resistor
R4	1	10K 1/2 W Resistor
R5, R6	2	25K Trim Pot
R7	1	10K Trim Pot
R8	1	200 Ohm 2 W Resistor
R10	1	15K 1/2 W Resistor
R11	1	2.2K 1/2 W Resistor
S1	1	SPST Togglae Switch
S2	1	Three Position Single Pole Rotary Switch
MISC	1	Telescoping Radio Antenna, Enclosure, Power Cable and Battery Connector

Note :

Calibrate the unit as folows:

Set up this circuit:

Turn on the Tach and allow a few minutes for temperature stabilization.
Set S2 to 4 cylinders and adjust R5 for a meter indication of 180 (1800 rpm).
Set S2 to 6 cylinders and adjust R6 for a meter indication of 120 (1200 rpm).
Set S2 to 8 cylinders and adjust R7 for a meter indication of 90 (900 rpm).

To use the Tach, turn it on and let it sit for one minute to allow for temperature stabilization. Extend the antenna, select the right number of cylinders and hold the unit over the engine. If the reading is erratic or the needle jumps around, move the antenna closer to the ignition coil or spark plug wires.
The unit draws power from the car battery. If it is connected backwards, it will not work, but it won't be damaged.

AC Motor Speed Controller

2011-12-07T02:22:00.000-08:00

Part:

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1	1	27K 1W Resistor
R2	1	10K 1/4W Resistor
R3	1	100K 1/4W Resistor
R4	1	33K 1/4W Resistor
R5	1	2.2K 1/4W Resistor
R6	1	1K 1/4W Resistor
R7	1	60K Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R8	1	3K Linear Taper Trim Pot
R9	1	5K Linear Taper Pot
R10	1	4.7K Linear Taper Trim Pot
R11	1	3.3K 1/4W Resistor
R12	1	100 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R13	1	47 Ohm 1W Resistor (See Notes)
C1, C3	2	0.1uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C2	1	100uF 50V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1	1	6V Zener Diode
Q1	1	2N2222 NPN Transistor	2N3904
SCR1	1	ECG5400
TR1	1	TRIAC (See Notes)
U1	1	DIAC Opto-Isolator (See Notes)
BR1, BR2	2	5A 50V Bridge Rectifier
T1	1	Transformer (See Notes)
MISC	1	PC Board, Case, Line Cord, Socket For U1, Heatsinks

Notes :

TR1 must be chosen to match the requirements of the load. Most generic TRIACs with ratings to support your load will work fine in this circuit. If you find a TRIAC that works well, feel free to leave a comment.
U1 must be chosen to match the ratings of TR1. Most generic DIAC based opto-isolators will work fine. If you have success with a specific part, feel free to leave a comment.
T1 is any small transformer with a 1:10 turns ratio. The circuit is designed to run on 120V so a 120V to 12V transformer will work. Alternately, you can wind T1 on a transformer core using a primary of 25 turns, a secondary of 200 turns, and 26 gauge magnet wire.
R9 is used to adjust motor speed. R10 is a trim pot used to fine tune the governing action of the circuit. R8 fine tunes the feedback circuit to adjust for proper voltage at the gate of SCR1. It should be adjusted to just past the minimum point at which the circuit begins to operate.
R13 must be chosen to match the load. Generally, larger loads will require a smaller value.
Since this circuit is not isolated from mains, it must be built in an insulated case.

7 Segment LED Counter

2011-12-07T02:13:00.000-08:00

This simple counter can be used to count pulses, as the basis for a customer counter (like you see at the doors of some stores), or for anything else that may be counted. The circuit accepts any TTL compatible logic signal, and can be expanded easily (see Notes).

7 Segment Display Reference

Part :

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1-R7	7	470 Ohm 1/4 Watt Resistor
U1	1	74LS90 TTL BCD Counter IC	7490,74HC90
U2	1	74LS47 TTL Seven Segment Display Driver IC	7447,74HC47
DISP1	1	Common Anode 7 Segment LED Display
MISC	1	Board, Sockets For ICs, Wire

Note :

All pulses to be counted are to be TTL compatible. They should not exeed 5V and not fall below ground.
You can add more digits by building a second (or third, or fourth, etc...) circuit and connecting the pin 11-6 junction of the 74LS90 and 74LS47 to pin 14 of the 74LS90 in the other circuit. You can keep expanding this way to as many digits as you want.

Rangkaian Pendetesi Hujan

2011-11-30T03:32:00.000-08:00

This circuit uses a sensor made of a small piece of etched PC board and a simple SCR circuit to detect rain and sound a buzzer. The SCR could also be used to activate a relay, turn on a lamp, or send a signal to a security system.

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1	1	1K 1/4 W Resistor
R2	1	680 Ohm 1/4 W Resistor
D1	1	1N4001 Silicon Diode
BZ1	1	12V Buzzer
S1	1	SPST Switch
SCR1	1	C106B1 SCR	106CY
SENSOR	1	See Notes
MISC	1	Board, Wire, Case, PC Board (For Sensor)

Notes :

The sensor is a small piece of PC board etched to the pattern showen in the schematic. The traces should be very close to each other, but never touching. A large spiral pattern would also work.
Make sure to use a loud buzzer.

Alarm tegangan rendah

2011-11-30T03:21:00.000-08:00

This low voltage circuit can be used to monitor batteries and other volatile sources of current for problems. The circuit sounds an alarm and lights an LED, but can be interfaced to any number of other circuits for many different uses.

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1, R3	2	1K 1/4W Resistor
R2	1	5K Pot
U1	1	LM339 Op Amp IC
D1	1	1N5233B Zener Diode
D2	1	LED
BZ1	1	Piezo Buzzer
MISC	1	Board, wire, socket for IC

Note :

The circuit will operate from 9V to 12V.
Adjust R2 until the alarm goes off at the correct voltage.

Pendeteksi Aliran Udara

2011-11-22T19:49:00.000-08:00

This simple circuit uses an incandescent lamp to detect airflow. With the filament exposed to air, a constant current source is used to slightly heat the filament. As it is heated, the resistance increases. As air flows over the filament it cools down, thus lowering it's resistance. A comparator is used to detect this difference and light an LED. With a few changes, the circuit can be connected to a meter or ADC to provide an estimation on the amount of air flow.

Part :

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1	1	100 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R2	1	470 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R3	1	10k 1/4W Resistor
R4	1	100K 1/4W Resistor
R5	1	1K 1/4W Resistor
C1	1	47uF Electrolytic Capacitor
U1	1	78L05 Voltage Regulator
U2	1	LM339 Op Amp
L1	1	#47 Incandescent lamp with glass removed (See "Notes")
D1	1	LED
MISC	1	Board, Wire, Sockets for ICs, etc.

Notes :
The glass will have to be removed from L1 without breaking the filament. Wrap the glass in masking tape and it in a vise. Slowly crank down until the glass breaks, then remove the bulb and carefully peel back the tape. If the filament has broken, you will need another lamp.

Kunci Kombinasi Tombol Digital

2011-11-22T19:43:00.000-08:00

This simple circuit is the electronic version of the combination lock. Using the special purpose LS7220 digital lock IC, the circuit allows a 4 digit combination of your choice to activate a relay for a set period of time. This relay can then be used to trigger a lock solenoid, enable a starter button, open a motorized door, or many other tasks that require a momentary signal.

Part:

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
C1	1	1uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C2	1	220uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
R1	1	2.2K 1/4W Resistor
Q1	1	2N3904 NPN Transistor	2N2222
D1	1	1N4148 Rectifier Diode	1N4001-1N4007
K1	1	12V SPDT Relay	Any appropriate relay with 12V coil
U1	1	LS7220 Digital Lock IC
S1-S12	12	SPST Momentary Pushbutton	Keypad (see notes)
HD1	1	12 Position Header

Notes:

To set the combination, wire the appropriate switches to U1 pins 3, 4, 5 and 6 using the header. For example if S1 was connected to pin 3, S2 to pin 4, S3 to pin 5 and S4 to pin 6, the combination would be 1,2,3,4. Now wire all other unused switches across the header to pin 2 of U1. In this way you can create any 4 digit combination you want. Pin 2 is the reset pin, so connecting all unused keys to it assures that the entire combination must be reentered if an incorrect key is pressed.
When the appropriate combination is entered, the relay is activated for a period of time determined by C1. The 1uF capacitor specified in the parts list will result in an on-time of roughly 5 seconds. Increase the value of C1 to increase this time.
An easy way to make a keypad is to buy 12 PC board mount pushbuttons and then etch a PC board so that the buttons are in 4 rows of 3, similar to a telephone keypad. Place this in a case and then use a label maker or transfer letters to add your numbers to the tops of the pushbuttons. You can also use a pre made keypad but keep in mind that you need a pad which provides an output for each key. Most pads available have the keys connected to provide a row and column signal when they are pressed.

Source : www.aaroncake.net

Simple Parallel (printer) Port Interface

2011-11-07T03:51:00.000-08:00

This is the basic interface I used as part of my Computerized Room project. This is the parallel interface only. The 8 bit input card can be found, along with the rest of the project, at Computerize Your Room/House. This interface, as well as the other two interfaces, came from the book "The Robot Builders Bonanza", by Gordan McComb. This interface is also useful for controlling small robots, etc. It is cheap and fairly easy to build, although you should not attempt this project unless you have prior experience with electronics. You probably won't damage anything if you hook it up wrong, but there is always a chance (some parallel ports are better protected then others). If possible, test the project on someone else's, or a school computer :-)
Schematic :

Parallel Port Pin assignment

Part :

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
U1, U2, U3	3	74LS367 Buffer IC	74367, 74HC367
MISC	1	Case, Wire, Sockests, 18 Pin Socket (For Output), 25 Pin Connector (For Parallel Port), Ribben Cable

Notes :

I built the interface on a piece of universal solder board due to the large number of wires that must cross. It is also much easier to fix mistakes then on a PC board. I also used a 25 pin crimp connector to connect it to the parallel port. 26 conductor ribben cable was used to link the connector to the board.
This interface only offers 5 inputs (on some computers it may be less). For more inputs, see Computerize Your Room/House. If you choose to use the inputs, remember that the voltage level can not exceed 5 volts or fall below ground.
This circuit is TTL and therefor must be powered by no more then 5 volts.
You can download control software from my files section.
For more information on programming the parallel port, see Programming The Parallel Port In QBasic or Programming The Parallel Port In Visual Basic.

Source : http://www.aaroncake.net

Computer controlled Frequency Counter /Logic Probe

2011-11-07T03:43:00.000-08:00

This circuit is a stable frequency counter accurate to 5 significant digits. The range is 0 - 30MHz with an input sensitivity of greater then 100mV. The probe connects to the PC serial port. So by using the crystal oscillator already present on your PC serial card and software calibration, the Probes' external circuitry is kept to a minimum. Probe 9 can also be used as a logic probe/analyzer using included software (LPROBE92.EXE)

Schematic:

Note:

Part	Total Qty.	Substitutions	Description
R1,R2,R3,R4	4	100K 1/4W Resistor
R5	1	10M 1/4W Resistor
R6, R7	2	3.3K 1/4W Resistor
R8	1	390 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R9	1	1M 1/4W Resistor
C1, C4	2	0.1uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C2, C3	2	100uF 16V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1	1	1N4148 Signal Diode	Any 200mA silicon signal diode
D2, D3	2	3.3V Zener Diode
D4	1	6.2V Zener Diode
U1	1	74HC00 Quad Highspeed NAND Gate
U2, U3, U4	3	4021 8 Stage Shift Register
U5	1	74HC393 Dual Highspeed 4 Bit Counter
U6	1	4040 12 Stage Binary Counter
MISC	1	PC Board, Wire, Suitable Probe, DB9/DB25 Connector

Notes:

Email Richard van Wyk with questions, comments, etc.
The software to use this probe can be downloaded using the following link. Note that this software is compiled for Intel x86 platforms and runs under DOS, Win95, Win98 and WinMe. It does not run under any Windows version based on NT including Windows NT 3.51, WinNT4, Win2K, Win2K3, WinXP and Windows Vista. This is because NT based operating systems do not allow direct hardware access. Download Probe Software, Zipped, 19K
SETPROBE.EXE is the frequency counter calibration program. To give accurate readings the Probe must be calibrated to your PC. SETPROBE.EXE calculates the constant error correction factor for the particular PC serial card the probe is to be used on. The frequency counter corrects for this slight constant error in crystal frequency by using the correction factor contained in PROBE.DAT. To calculate this correction factor, a reliable oscillator of known frequency (eg 2MHz Crystal Oscillator) is required. When CALIBRAT.EXE is run, the Probe will sample the frequency and then ask for the true frequency value in HZ. The frequency entered must be to 1 Hz accuracy (no decimal points) or an error will occur (for example "200123" not "200123.34" or "2003.421 kHz"). The program then calculates constant error correction factor and stores it to PROBE.DAT. Calibration is only necessary once.
LPROBE92.EXE is the logic analysis program . Logic states are displayed in real time. This program runs best under DOS (not a DOS window). The sampling speed is adjusted by using the left and right arrow keys. The three triggering modes are:
- TRIG: Starts each scan (left-right of screen) on a negative going edge of logic signal.
- KEY TRIG: Waits for a key to be pressed before beginning each scan.
- FREE RUNNING: Not triggered.
To Toggle between these use the UP / DOWN arrow keys. To quit from LPROBE press escape.
FPROBE92.EXE is the frequency counter program. The measured frequency is displayed in Hz with commas indicating KHz and MHz. To quit from FPROBE press any key.
Serial port pinouts are as follows.

Line	9 Pin	25 Pin
TD	3	2
RTS	7	4
DTR	4	20
DSR	6	6
CTS	8	5
SG	5	7

50 watt Amplifier

2011-10-28T01:21:00.000-07:00

This is a handy, easy to build general purpose 50 watt amp. The amp has an input for a radio, TV, stereo or other line level device. It also has a phono input for a record player, guitar, microphone or other un-amplified source. With the addition of a low pass filter at the input, it makes a great amp for a small subwoofer.

Part

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1	1	200 Ohm 1/4 W Resistor
R2	1	200K 1/4 W Resistor
R3	1	30K 1/4 W Resistor
R5	1	1K 1/4 W Resistor
R6	1	5K 1/4 W Resistor
R7,R10	2	1 Meg (5%) 1/2 W Resistor
R8,R9	2	0.4 Ohm 5 W Resistor
R11	1	10K Pot
R12,R13	2	51K 1/4 W Resistor
R14	1	47K 1/4 W Resistor
C1	1	100uF 35V Electrolytic Capacitor
C2	1	0.011uF Capacitor
C3	1	3750pF Capacitor
C4,C6	2	1000pF Capacitor
C5,C7,C8	3	0.001uF Capacitor
C9	1	50pF Capacitor
C10	1	0.3uF Capacitor
C11,C12	2	10,000uF 50V Electrolytic Capacitor
U1,U2	2	741 Op Amp
U3	1	ICL8063 Audio Amp Transister Driver thingy
Q1	1	2N3055 NPN Power Transistor
Q2	1	2N3791 PNP Power Transistor
BR1	1	250 V 6 Amp Bridge Rectifier
T1	1	50V Center Tapped 5 Amp Transformer
S1	1	SPST 3 Amp Switch
S2	1	DPDT Switch
F1	1	2 Amp Fuse
SPKR1	1	8 Ohm 50W Speaker
MISC	1	Case, Knobs, Line Cord, Binding Posts Or Phono Plugs (For Input And Output), Heatsinks For Q1 And Q2

Note:

I know I skipped R4. That is not a problem :-)
Distortion is less than 0.1% up to 100HZ and increases to about 1% at 20kHz.
I haven't been able to find anyone who sells a suitable T1. You can always use two 24V 5A units in series. If you are building two amps (for stereo), then I would suggest using an old microwave transformer and rewinding it. Follow the instructions in the 12V To 120V Inverter, execpt wind 26 turns, twist a loop (center tap) and wind 26 more turns. That should work out to around 50 volts. You may need to add or remove turns depending on your transformer.
Q1 and Q2 will require heatsinks.
You may have trouble finding U3 because it is discontinued. Please don't email me about sources...I can't find it either. See if any of the sources in Where To Get Parts has it. A possible source was sent in by JBWilliams:

3 watt FM Transmitter

2011-10-20T22:40:00.000-07:00

This is the schematic for an FM transmitter with 3 to 3.5 W output power that can be used between 90 and 110 MHz. Although the stability isn't so bad, a PLL can be used on this circuit. This is a circuit that I've build a few years ago for a friend, who used it in combination with the BLY88 amplifier to obtain 20 W output power. From the notes that I made at the original schematic, it worked fine with a SWR of 1 : 1.05 (quite normal at my place with my antenna)

Part	Total Qty.	Description	Substitutions
R1,R4,R14,R15	4	10K 1/4W Resistor
R2,R3	2	22K 1/4W Resistor
R5,R13	2	3.9K 1/4W Resistor
R6,R11	2	680 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R7	1	150 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R8,R12	2	100 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R9	1	68 Ohm 1/4W Resistor
R10	1	6.8K 1/4W Resistor
C1	1	4.7pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C2,C3,C4,C5,C7,C11,C12	7	100nF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C6,C9,C10	3	10nF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C8,C14	2	60pF Trimmer Capacitor
C13	1	82pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C15	1	27pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C16	1	22pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C17	1	10uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C18	1	33pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C19	1	18pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C20	1	12pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
C21,C22,C23,C24	4	40pF Trimmer Capacitor
C25	1	5pF Ceramic Disc Capacitor
L1	1	5 WDG, Dia 6 mm, 1 mm CuAg, Space 1 mm
L2,L3,L5,L7,L9	5	6-hole Ferroxcube Wide band HF Choke (5 WDG)
L4,L6,L8	3	1.5 WDG, Dia 6 mm, 1 mm CuAg, Space 1 mm
L10	1	8 WDG, Dia 5 mm, 1 mm CuAg, Space 1 mm
D1	1	BB405	BB102 or equal (most varicaps with C = 2-20 pF [approx.] will do)
Q1	1	2N3866
Q2,Q4	2	2N2219A
Q3	1	BF115
Q5	1	2N3553
U1	1	7810 Regulator
MIC	1	Electret Microphone
MISC	1	PC Board, Wire For Antenna, Heatsinks

Note:

Email Rae XL Tkacik with questions, comments, etc.
The circuit has been tested on a normal RF-testing breadboard (with one side copper). Make some connections between the two sides. Build the transmitter in a RF-proof casing, use good connectors and cable, make a shielding between the different stages, and be aware of all the other RF rules of building.
Q1 and Q5 should be cooled with a heat sink. The case-pin of Q4 should be grounded.
C24 is for the frequency adjustment. The other trimmers must be adjusted to maximum output power with minimum SWR and input current.
Local laws in some states, provinces or countries may prohibit the operation of this transmitter. Check with the local authorities.

source :http://www.aaroncake.net

22 watt audio amplifier

2011-10-20T22:29:00.000-07:00

The 22 watt amp is easy to build, and very inexpensive. The circuit can be used as a booster in a car audio system, an amp for satellite speakers in a surround sound or home theater system, or as an amp for computer speakers. The circuit is quite compact and uses only about 60 watts. The circuit is not mine, it came from Popular Electronics.

Part

Part	Total Qty	Description	Subtitution
R1	1	39K 1/4 Watt Resistor
C1,C2	2	10uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C3	1	100uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C4	1	47uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
C5	1	0.1uf 25V Ceramic Capacitor
C6	1	2200uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
U1	1	TDA1554 Two Channel Audio Amp Chip
MISC	1	Heatsink For U1, Binding Posts (For Output), RCA Jacks (For Input), Wire, Board

Note:

The circuit works best with 4 ohm speakers, but 8 ohm units will do.
The circuit dissipates roughly 28 watts of heat, so a good heatsink is necessary. The chip should run cool enough to touch with the proper heatsink installed.
The circuit operates at 12 Volts at about 5 Amps at full volume. Lower volumes use less current, and therefore produce less heat.
Printed circuit board is preferred, but universal solder or perf board will do. Keep lead length short.

Single chip AM Radio circuit

2011-10-20T17:41:00.000-07:00

The ZN414 IC contains an entire automatic gain controlled AM receiver in a small three pin package. With only a few external components, a simple radio with excellent selection and reception can be constructed. Since the chip also uses a low supply voltage of only 1.3V, 3V coin cell battery can make for a physically small circuit with many covert uses. The chip has a wide bandwidth of between 150KHz and 3MHz, so by playing with values in the tuning circuit you can pick up a wide variety of signals.

Part:

Part	Total Qty	Description	Substitutio
R1 R2 R3 C1 C2 C3 D1,D2 U1 L1 MISC	1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1	100K 1/4W Resistor 470 Ohm 1/4W Resistor 1K 1/4W Resistor 0.04uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor 365pF Variable Tuning Capacitor 0.01uF Ceramic Disc Capacitor 1N4148 Signal Diode ZN414 Radio IC MK48 See Notes Board, Holder For Batteries, Wire, Coil Form For L1	MK484

Note:

The ZN414 is obsolete. The MK484 is it's replacement, but like all special purpose ICs, it can be hard to find. At the time of this writing, there are many suppliers online that carry the IC. The ZN416 is functionally the same but with the additiion of a built in headphone amplifier.
L1 is made by winding 40 turns of 28 AWG magnet wire around a 4" non-magnetic coil form. Cardboard tubes or paper cups are ideal forms.
The audio output of the circuit is about 0.1V peak to peak, which will drive a set of crystal earphones or other very high impedance phones. A small audio amplifier made with an LM386 will allow you to use modern dynamic headphones or a small speaker.
L1, C1 and C2 are the tuning circuit. By changing them around, you can change the range of frequencies the radio is capable of. Easiest to change is L1. Simply by altering the number of coils or moving the windings farther apart, you can shift the circuit to different frequency ranges.