But first some background on Pienza

Pienza is located in the beautiful Val d’Orcia area of Tuscany  – the southern portion of the region. The small town itself is adorable, has amazing architecture, pretty little lanes, colorful flowers; photo ops abound around every corner.  It’s also a UNESCO World Heritage site and the former home of Pope Pius II. You’ll see many references to him in the names of buildings, museums, squares, cafes and other places around town.

The most notable, popular culture and historic sights in Pienza are:

• Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta
• Piazza Pio II (a lovely square)
• Museo Diocesano
• Palazzo Piccolomini  – a stunning palace, with a beautiful courtyard and landscaped gardens. Guided tours are available..

Travelers also come to Pienza for the extraordinary views of the valley. I highly recommend you head outside the walls and stroll along the romantic streets for stunning panoramic views of the Val d’Orcia, especially along via Santa Caterina.

For food lovers visiting Pienza, the real star of the show is the famous pecorino cheese

Pecorino cheese (known locally as il calcio) is a raw cheese made from sheeps milk and has a PDO – protected origin status. There are many different types, both aged and fresh.  Different stages of aging, covered in ash, or wrapped in fig or walnut leaves, infused with truffle – each one imparting a unique flavor to the cheese. The combinations are endless really.

You’ll find lots of wine bars, wineries that serve food, and restaurants serving pecorino paired with wine, jams and other products. There are plenty of opportunities to taste or even purchase some. Many shops will vacuum seal pecorino cheese for travel. Follow your nose, the unique aroma will lead you to these shops producing cheese of the highest quality.

Food lover’s guide to Pienza : Where to buy pecorino cheese and other gourmet food products

Marusco e Maria Corso il Rossellino, 21. Since 1974 they’ve been selling many types of pecorino cheese, but also dried pici pasta (a specialty of the region), salumi, beans, jam, honey, olive oil and other local products. Their cheese is aged in the cave on the bottom floor of the shop. Book tastings directly on their website.

Il Cacio di Ernesto Via Enzo Mangiavacchi, 37 is a tiny shop just outside the walls that sells products from their nearby farm. All types of pecorino are offered, but also bread, their own organic olive oil, other cheeses and local wine. This is a great spot to pick up picnic provisions and head to a scenic spot overlooking the valley to enjoy it.

La Bottega del Naturista Corso il Rossellino, 16 is a cheese lover’s paradise! This is the store of cheese maker Caseficio de Mario, which is another small family dairy nearby. Lots of pecorino and goat cheese on offer. Fresh and classic cheese seasoned with hay, honey, pignoli, basil, chili, or aged in ash and more; dried pasta, porcini and truffles, wine and craft beer too. Tastings offered.

Food lover’s guide to Pienza : Where to eat (and drink)

La Taverna di Re Artù La Via della Rosa, 4 is a postage-stamp-sized wine bar with friendly owners serving up local wine, Italian craft beers, and crostini in a charming rustic indoor setting or at outdoor tables for people watching.

Idyllum via Gozzante, 67. A hipster bar opened by a few local guys. Spendy, but it’s THE spot to have a classic Negroni or Campari, sit outside and enjoy the gorgeous views. Don’t discount the interior either – it’s located in a historic building.

Piccolomini Caffe Corso il Rossellino, 87.  There are far better places for a proper sit down meal, and service can be chilly, but it’s a perfect spot for an early morning croissant and cappuccino on the shady terrace in back.

Bar Il Casello Via del Casello, 3 is another spot for a great cappuccino or espresso, with far friendlier service and stunning panoramic countryside views. Also a perfect spot for aperitivo with drinks and snacks. Go at sunset for a real treat.

Buon Gusto Gelateria Via Case Nuove, 26.  No food lover’s visit to Pienza would be complete without a gelato stop and this is the best spot in town. Nicola is friendly, passionate and creates unique flavor combos from local ingredients. Craving a healthy alternative? Grab a smoothie.

La Bandita Townhouse Corso il Rossellino, 111. Dine in the garden of this former convent turned luxury hotel, which has an excellent restaurant. Carnivores should try the burgers or tartare made from locally sourced Chianina beef.

Trattoria Latte di Luna Via S. Carlo, 2/4 offers a homey atmosphere and charming setting both inside and on the romantic shaded terrace. This family-owned trattoria serves up homemade local Italian favorites. Everything is scrumptious. Order anything on the menu with truffles (when in season) – shavings are generous!

Trattoria Fiorella Via Condotti, 11. Another gem with excellent homemade pasta, tucked away from the main drag. If you’re craving a traditional Bistecca Fiorentina, cooked to perfection – this is where to get it. Prices are more than reasonable for the quality of food. Don’t miss the cheese plate which offers several types of local pecorino or their pannacotta which is other-worldly.

Sette di Vino Piazza di Spagna, 1 – a homey osteria serving up simple, authentic Tuscan dishes in a charming outdoor space with very friendly service. If classic ribollita, grilled pecorino, sliced lardo, bruschetta, panzanella salad and delicious wine makes you drool, you’ll be happy. No pasta on the menu here though.

Nanetti e Bernardini Corso il Rossellino, 81. If you’re on the go and need something quick, tasty and full of juicy porky goodness, look no further than a porchetta panini at this shop.

Where to shop for other artisanal products in Pienza

I know this is a food lover’s guide to Pienza, but I would be remiss if I didn’t mention a few very special places to shop for non-food items. Visit these spots if you want something handmade, a small gift or a treasured one-of-a-kind hand-crafted souvenir.

Ceramiche Bai Linda Via Gozzante, 33 is a beautiful ceramics workshop offering both modern and traditional pieces and very fair prices. Linda is as welcoming and friendly, as she is talented. The shop is set in a historic building with an Etruscan cave – with tunnels and a wheel mill – making it a very unique shopping experience. She also ships overseas.

Bottega Artiginale del Cuoio Via S. Andrea, 16/44 is a workshop dedicated to leather goods. The craftsmen’s table in set right out in the open, so you can see him work. He crafts leather keychains, wallets, bracelets, belts and handbags in a rainbow of colors. All are hand made and top quality. He was a joy to chat with and he welcomes custom orders.

Made in Tuscany Via Guglielmo Marconi, 11 offers a wide selection of local products and hand made items from Tuscany. You’ll find a nice selection of linens, textiles, scarves, perfume, candles, pottery and gift items.

Where to go beyond Pienza

You can visit Pienza for a day; but if you have a car, it also makes a great base for exploring nearby towns in Tuscany like Montalcino, Montepulciano, Siena, Montechiello and Montefollonico. A short distance away are the often photographed Chapel of the Madonna di Vitaleta, San Biagio and Bagno Vignoni hot springs. And plenty of wineries scattered about for wine tastings.

If you enjoyed this food lover’s guide to Pienza, you might enjoy these activities I can arrange nearby:

• a raw milk cheese making class or cheese and wine pairing
• a full day private wine tour with tastings and lunch at a winery
• booking wine tasting appointments
• private cooking class in a 17th century home
• lunch in a ancient stone wine cellar
• a truffle hunting excursion

INQUIRE NOW

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The area didn’t disappoint! It’s thriving and brimming with new discoveries. And some of my old favorites are still going strong. I made the most of my few days there and have great recommendations for where to eat in Paris’ Canal-Saint-Martin neighborhood.

WHERE TO EAT IN PARIS’ CANAL-SAINT MARTIN NEIGHBORHOOD

Holybelly 5 Rue Lucien Sampaix is the place for an amazing breakfast in the neighborhood with an Aussie twist. It’s so popular now, you’ll find queues. My advice – get there early to avoid long lines. Also, they do a mean flat white.

Du Pain e des Idées 34 Rue Yves Toudic  is likely the best and most certainly one of the prettiest traditional bakeries in Paris. A cult classic for their amazing artisanal pastries and breads. Located in an historic building, the inside is stunning example of an old-fashioned boulangerie with ornate painted ceilings. Their pistache chocolate escargot pastry is a favorite but their chausson aux pommes is a special treat – with an entire apple inside. A healthy choice because of the fruit, right? Or grab a wood-fired loaf of nutty pain des amis or a mini-pavés. Closed weekends.

Sain Boulangerie 15, rue Marie et Louise is the newest addition to the area. An outstanding artisan bakery opened by a Michelin stared chef –  he aims to craft healthier natural long-fermented breads. The croissants here are to die for, but anything here is of amazing quality.  Don’t miss the selection of glaces and sorbets.

La Marine 55Bis Quai de Valmy. Steps from the canal, this friendly neighborhood bistro serves up quintessential favorites. Escargot, fresh oysters, and a decadent tarte tatin served with an unctuous dollop of creme fraiche. The old curved zinc bar and eye-popping globe-light chandelier are striking. Another bonus – it’s open daily and the outdoor terrace is heated in winter.

Le Verre Volé. 67 rue de Lancry. I first visited this OG of natural wine bars in Paris over ten years ago. It’s still amazing. Serving and selling a terrific selection of natural wines and simple, local fare. Occasional chilly service – but don’t let that deter you. Tough to score a table, so I recommend reserving. Open daily with a seasonal menu.

Le Citizen Wine Bar Located on the bottom floor of the eponymous hotel, this gem functions as a cafe and breakfast spot during the day, a wine bar in the evening, and serves snacks and sweets all day. Friendly service, and a very talented chef serving locally sourced produce. The burrata was a standout. Aim for a two-top table next to their floor to ceiling windows to people watch canal-side.

Early June 19 Rue Jean Poulmarch. Another natural wine bar steps from Le Verre Volé – this one serving up Spanish small plates in a small rustic dining room with whitewashed walls, wooden tables, old french school chairs and an open kitchen. Reasonably priced wines (both by the glass and bottle) and knowledgable staff to help you decide. They also feature rotating guest chefs.

Le Comptoir General 84 Quai de Jemmapes. Hidden behind a wall along the banks of the canal is one of the coolest bars in the area. A boho mash-mash of vintage and antique furnishings and plants – it’s part cafe, part bar, part restaurant, part nightclub – even a small thrift shop. Come for the great selection of beer and creative cocktails along with tasty sharing plates. It can get super crowded on weekend evenings, so stick to a quieter time if you want good service or go for the weekend brunch.

Don Antónia Pastelaria 8 Rue de la Grange aux Belles serves up a little taste of Portugal in a charming setting. Tiny postage stamp-sized place with window counter tops both inside and street-side and sweet lace curtains. Sample the perfectly creamy pastel de nata, fish courgettes and first rate coffee. Very friendly service is a bonus.

Ten Belles named for its address (10 Rue de la Grange aux Belles) is a tiny hipster joint with amazing coffee and homemade sweets, but it’s so popular they sell out fast. You may not get the chance to dine in – you’ll have to fight the work-from-cafe types with their laptops, beanies and headphones.

Kann Coffee 28 Rue des Vinaigriers is the result of a design house opening a coffee shop in a beautiful, clean minimalist space that has both indoor and outdoor seating. They serve local coffee from Coutume, golden and matcha lattes and have alternative milk options too. The lunch menu offers mostly vegetarian cuisine. They also do brunch.

Ima Cantine 39 Quai de Valmy is the place to go for healthy, creative delicious vegetarian and vegan fare made with fresh seasonal produce. Open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, tapas and snacks. Favorites are the shakshuka, granola, veggie bowls, salads and a rotating hot plat du jour. Tasty baked goods with gluten free options abound. Few tables, so you may want to order take-away and picnic on the banks of the canal.

Breizh Cafe 112 Quai de Jemmapes is the place to go for amazing authentic buckwheat crepes from Brittany – both savory galette and sweet dessert. I recommend pairing them with a bowl of cider. It’s a bit larger than the original Marais location, but it’s a popular spot with views of the canal- so reserve in advance.

I hope this helps you discover where to eat in Paris’ Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood.

Traveling to Paris? You might be interested in these experiences I can arrange

• • food market tour or DIY foodie adventure in any Paris neighborhood

  • french cheese tour and tasting

  • wine tasting

  • cooking class

  • day tour to Champagne for tours and tastings

INQUIRE NOW

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I was really intrigued by their concept and the ideal location; not to mention the photos were very attractive.  I vowed to visit on a future trip to Paris. 

As luck would have it, while organizing a research trip to Lyon, I was flying into Paris, but my Lyon-bound train wasn’t due to leave until the following day, so I decided to eat my way through the Canal Saint-Martin neighborhood again. I last visited in 2010 and there’d been a ton of growth. It’s now loaded with hip coffee shops, restaurants, wine bars and boutiques. 

Naturally, Le Citizen, right in the heart of the neighborhood, was the first place I thought of to spend the night and I was thrilled that they agreed to have me as an overnight guest.

LE CITIZEN HOTEL IN PARIS

The hotel itself is housed in a small building, perfectly situated along the banks of the Canal St. Martin. Most things you’d want to visit are just a stroll away and anyone who’s seen the movie Amelie would immediately recognize some the charming scenes and lovely bridges crossing the canal. The hotel is actually quite easy to spot – the logo adorns the front in huge black block lettering.

The ground floor is home to an all-purpose breakfast room/cafe/restaurant/wine bar, which is open almost all day. When I arrived late morning, it was bustling. A cozy nook on the opposite side, complete with a few comfy chairs and a small table, serves as a make-shift lobby/co-working space. Perhaps because the free wi-fi is strong.

The hotel is small, only 12 rooms, each with lovely tree-lined canal views. There’s also a tiny elevator, which is something of a rare treat in a smaller, multi-level property in Paris. The rooms have a really minimalist, scandi-themed vibe and both the staff and regulars at the cafe skews younger.

The staff are amazing really; very knowledgable, friendly and always willing to give tons of hints and tips for what to do and see in the area. Most are excited to share their favorite places to visit and assist with directions. I felt they genuinely cared and wanted you to have the best experience in their little local community. Especially, Chaim.

Rooms are bright and sparsely decorated with blond woods, white bedding and pops of accent colors in the decor, draperies, throw pillows and bathroom tiles. One of the first things I noticed in my room is the wall of floor to ceiling windows that open, offering both amazing views and fresh air. A really dreamy way to experience all the sights, sounds and buzz of the area.

My room was one of the smaller ones, but had everything I needed. Large comfortable bed, mini-bar, well-designed, and well-laid out space. Perfect for a single or couple. But they also have bigger rooms and a family room to accommodate larger parties.

My bathroom was definitely a bit cramped, but made good use of space. The hot showers and high-end toiletries were nice. They even provide slippers, shower cap, earplugs and a few odds and ends (q-tips, makeup remover pads) and in case you forget something from home.

One thing that sets Le Citizen Hotel apart is their commitment to their green philosophy. Here are some of the ways they support it:

• glass bottles (instead of plastic) of both still and bubbly water in the rooms
• a recycling system in place for glass, paper, plastic, steel and aluminum
• shower heads, faucets and toilets that are efficient, but not wasteful
• refillable toiletries instead of single use plastics
• energy, electric and plumbing, retrofitted throughout
• double pained windows (both for noise and energy efficiency)
• all organic cotton bedding
• homemade and environmentally friendly cleaning supplies are used 
• lights are controlled with your hotel key card, automatically turning off/on when you enter the room, which helps save on electric

LE CITIZEN HOTEL : CAFE + WINE BAR + RESTAURANT 

I’m not normally one to eat breakfast at the hotel where I’m staying. Mainly because I’m there to do research, seeking out local authentic places to eat and drink to recommend to clients or create custom food-focused itineraries.  So, I need to explore the area. But also because most hotel breakfasts are dreadful, bland, boring and uninspiring. 

However, I’m happy to report that’s not the case at Le Citizen. I was beyond impressed with everything they have to offer.

For one, breakfasts are included with your stay.  The options are amazing and endless. They can include, coffee beverages or tea, orange juice, yogurt with homemade jam, eggs served how you like with homemade bread, even pastries; Mine also included pears served in a cardamom-honey poaching liquid. It was divine. You can opt for something more substantial and decadent for a small additional cost.

Their focus is on quality, local products and homemade treats. The coffee is excellent and their latte art game is on point.  

The restaurant is a destination in its own right. The food stands up all on it’s own, apart from the hotel, which is wonderful because you don’t need to be a guest of the hotel to dine there.  I would highly recommend visiting even if you’re not staying at the hotel. 

Aside from breakfast, you can visit anytime during the day or night. They’re open continuous hours from 7am-11pm daily. This means you can pop-in for just a pastry with cappuccino, a few homemade treats (expect cookies, muffins, bread ,cakes that change daily) to go, an aperitif in the evening with tapas-style menu items, or dinner. Or all of them. The blackboard menu items are varied and are based on what’s currently available and in season.  

Le Citizen supports local shops and use organic products when possible. In fact 90% of their produce is sourced locally and comes from France. They make their own jams, condiments and bread and often use compostable and/or biodegradable tableware.

THE VERDICT

I simply adored my stay at Le Citizen Hotel. And I thought the quality of food the restaurant was really top-notch. I wouldn’t hesitate to book clients here. Try to score a room on an upper floor – you’ll be rewarded with the best views.

Le Citizen Hotel in Paris is perfect for those who:

• want a small boutique hotel with simple, minimalist rooms and basic amenities
• have been to Paris before and wish to explore more of an authentic neighborhood further from the city center
• place a huge emphasis on choosing sustainable or eco-friendly stays
• are staying a short time and like the idea of choosing a hotel that can serve as a destination – so you don’t need to venture far and can also eat well right on site
• guests who like every room to have a lovely view and don’t want to take a chance of having a room facing a dark alley
• require good wifi connections for work
• those with limited mobility in need of an elevator
• want an (excellent) free breakfast and free minibar items included in the room rate

LE CITIZEN HOTEL PARIS

96 quai de Jemmapes 75010 Paris

+33 1 83 62 55 50

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