My Most Excellent Adventure

Toto, we aren't in India anymore- Welcome to Paris! April 2012

2024-08-17T16:35:00.000-06:00

I am happy to say that I had a wonderful 5 weeks in India and am now very happily situated in gay Paris! This grand monument is around the corner from the lovely apartment I have rented. Although still camera challenged even my cell is struggling now... Here are a few photos.

Etoille

My lovely place

murphy bed of dreams, actually more comfortable than the beds ive been for the past 3 months

day one !

Eiffel Tower!

After a few retreat processes in India, where incidentally I meditated for hours and days, it became clear to me that instead of doing what I thought I should do, which was travel India- since I was there and who knows if I'll get to come back-I decided to do what I wanted to do which is spend my birthday in Paris! So here I am. Day one, arrived to my lovely apartment without a hitch. At the airport I inquired about a shuttle, a very helpful woman assisted me and took the Air France bus to Etoille. At my stop I walked to the taxi stand and the driver said I was a 5 minute walk and smiled saying welcome to Paris. I stopped at a paper stand to get a map and the fellow was also very helpful, giving me tips and what to beware of, the gypsies and their children who make an art of pickpocketing even cell phones are craftily taken right off table tops. But he ensured me Paris is safe other than that and also wished me a great stay and welcome to Paris. I walked a few blocks to the next large street which, as it turns out, was my exact street and about three doors to my apartment. Fantastic! A great bustling area filled with cafes, and chocolate shops among all of the high end shopping. As I arrived and keyed in the code to the giant blue doors I walked into a center courtyard/ driveway found my way to the door of the apartment and rang the bell. Jesse, the greeter met me and assisted me to the 2nd floor and showed me around the apartment and its amenities. I was in heaven. I arrived to my dream city and into a great Paris feeing apartment. I went out for a walk and immediately arrived at Maison Du Chocolat. The fellows there got a kick out of this hybrid Italian/ French language I seem to be creating. One was actually Italian and the other French so I did my best to speak to both. I had lunch at a Brasserie Entrecote and frites- steak and fries and a chocolate and coffee dessert combo called cafe gourmand. Yum. Everyone was being so helpful and nice I just love it here. I walked to the Arc de Triumph and down the Champs Elysee and over to the Eiffel tower and eventually found myself on a boat ride down the Seine. Walked home and gathered a few cheeses and things for a sweet little dinner at home. It was 10pm by the time I got back. It seems that the evening hours are lighter than when I left Italy and certainly India... I continued to celebrate my bday sampling a variety of yummies and chocolates and macaroons I gathered along my walk. All in all I am loving Paris. As I am satiated from a degustation at the restaurant Citrus Etoille I am ready for a nap. My birthday lunch splurge. Im going to work the birthday angle with myself and repeat this adventure daily. More to come after napping meditation.

A Little Trip Down Memory Lane. My adventures traveling Italy, Thailand, India, France, Spain, The Mediteranean and Scotland

2020-01-03T11:09:00.000-07:00

In 2011 I left on my first major "walkabout". I traveled to Rome where I studied Italian at the Scuola Leonardo da Vinci Language school. Here I met people from all around the world. We dined together, toured and practiced our Italian. (Read more about Rome here). I discovered my fascination with small vehicles and took many photos for my nephews.

I then went to Florence, Italy and found adventures walking in the hills outside of the tourist areas.

One day, the day after Christmas, while out on a jog/walk (yes, I still did that in those days...) I came upon a man and his dog who were walking along the same path. He spoke almost no English and I fumbled along with the Italian I learned from the Scuola Leonardo da Vinci . Turns out, I had learned enough to communicate and to carry on a conversation that led to me joining his walk during which I learned about the area, the birds and wildlife, the flowers and plants he used for cooking or medicine and, sadly, that he was out walking for the first time since his wife passed just before Christmas. He told me about her and about his family and how nature brings him back to his center. Nature was a common language for us that day. It was magical. (Read more about my time in Florence here.)

Bologna was next. I visiterd a cheese maker and a Balsamic artisan. Where I was introduced to aged balsamic ov er french vanilla ice cream! Sienna and a few other areas of the region drew me in and meals and sightseeing were fruitful and delightful.

Cheese making- Bologna

Sienna and parts near

I then went to a cooking school in Soverato, Calabria, Italy, visited Venice in the winter.

I decided to go to India and needed a visa so I flew to Bangkok, Thailand to apply for the visa. As I awaited the visa, I visited many sites in the city and visited many of the key cultural and tourist places as well as took a cooking class where we made the most delicious, from scratch, green curry I have ever tasted. I gorged on mango and sweet rice and got overwhelmed by the scents at the market (dried fish), I even squeezed in time to have a medical health and wellness check up in one of the programs at Bumrungrad International Hospital in Bangkok, Thailand. I then, made my trek to India, the Osho Meditation resort in Pune India, here I went deep into a few different programs and met amazingly interesting people. One of the best parts of traveling is the people you meet along the way! After my time in Pune, I decided to go to Paris, even tho my original itinerary was to go through Indonesia and into Australia, then New Zealand. I had a rather large birthday coming up and I was feeling the love after my deep meditations in India so I decided to go to the city of love Paris! I walked everywhere, determined to feel every part of the city. I rented the most lovely place ate myself around town and met up with a pal from the language school in Rome. I took a class and learned how to make Macaron (my favorite!)

I then rented a car and "did France slowly". I started with a drive to Giverney then headed to the coast Normandy, Brittany across the Dordogne, including Tremolat, down to Nice and Cannes (just in time for the film festival!) spent time in Vance and many small towns along the way (see my France post here) I ended up back In Paris where I attended a writers retreat for a week then to Provence for another one! Super inspiring. Writing in cafes and hanging out with fellow writers it was a dream. I took the train to southwestern France and visited Sete and other areas such as the Camargue. Then to Barcelona, Spain hopped on a ship and cruised for almost two weeks in the Mediterranean with dear friends and their awesome kids. We met locals and did tours it was hoot!

After this I flew to Scotland to hang out in Edinburgh. All of this time I did a great deal of writing and walking, The city was brimming with activities as it was the time of the Edinburgh Fringe Festival. This is a must do event for those who are fans of the arts. The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo is also on at this time full of events around the Edinburgh Castle, pipers from all over and my favorite part of attending the festival on the grounds is to hear the lone piper as hey plays atop the castle walls. It is hauntingly beautiful. I so enjoyed this walk about but the time came where it had to end and back to the states I went. It was an amazing journey and this short synopsis coves the very tip of the iceberg (which I will talk about in another post about the Arctic!)

I was revitalized by this trip into the world. It was by far one of the best tings I have ever done in my life. I am actively preparing for another "walkabout" I am deciding the itinerary and time frame of this one which I imagine will involve a shorter run but one never knows in my life.

Travel on,

Pam

Budapest spring bounty

2019-04-29T00:06:00.000-06:00

Spring vegies! I just love fresh beautiful vegetables. After a nice trip to my local market these beauties came home with me to be lovingly prepared. I chose to blanch half of them, and enjoy the light lemony vinaigrette, sweet, crunchy, fresh, delicious!

The celery root made a light springy soup, which was enhanced by the blanching, from the assortment of carrots, parsnips, spring onions, white radish and me potatoes. Topped off with a bit of crispy potato. Bread croutons and a drizzle of olive oil. A fresh and delightful rooftop patio meal.

Lunch for one at Le Vieux Logis in Tremolat in the South West Dordogne

2012-06-12T08:28:00.001-06:00

The Dordogne is one of my favorite areas of France. This hotel Le Vieux Logis is a beautiful setting for a date for one or two or even for a wedding. It is located in the center of this village and is a most beautiful building with fantastic gardens. It is Early May and I am enjoying the outside as one of only two tables dining at this moment. I sit imagining myself planning my wedding here tasting each dish as if it were being presented for consideration on my menu. Looking around for each setting, the rehearsal dinner, the wedding ceremony, the reception and the photo session. Numerous nooks and expansive gardens fit all of the profiles with perfection. I ordered the Degustation menu of the season. The restaurant offers several menu options all looked equally delicious.

The beautiful garden in which my table was located. Food photos to follow....

Lobster with delicate gele

Salmon

Lamb

savory cheese creme brule

refreshing grapefruit and gele

sumptuous strawberries and ice cream

funny things for my nephews

2012-06-12T08:26:00.000-06:00

Hello to my nephews! Here are some more funny things from my travels.

This bike was on the streets of Paris neat the Jardin De Luxembourg. They say people here are obsessed with the garden. Scooters and bikes are everywhere here too as well as in other parts of Europe. As we saw in Rome and around Italy the scooters and small cars are needed as many of the roads are very narrow through the cities and villages. My larger car got stuck once in a rock wall lined hilltop street in a little village in Vence, France. I couldn't make the turn and got stuck as I was also poorly skilled at driving a car with a stick shift on a steep hill. My tears turned to laughter once I finally got myself unstuck and found my way to the final destination for the day.

another little car for my nephews

Italian Institute of Advanced Culinary and Pastry Arts

2012-06-04T10:23:00.002-06:00

I have received many suggestions from friends that I post about the "cooking school" that I attended in Calabria, Italy this year. Specifically about what a disaster it was and to warn others to beware it is not what it professes to be.

Last year, after many years of not following my own passion but encouraging others and to follow theirs, I made a decision to go to Italy to attend a cooing school. I was truly excited about the curriculum and the teachers/chefs looked great. They were advertised as "masters" in their field and winners of World Cup competitions... I was looking forward learning from true experts. We were to be housed in a fine hotel overlooking the sea in a popular resort town. We had a list of excursions, consultations and meetings with producers, purveyors and artisans to learn deeply about the production and creation of things such as olive oil and gelato. It was touted as a professional development program of the highest caliber.

Instead...

I arrived to a deserted town near Soverato Italy. The hotel, abandoned for the winter, was cold in appearance and in temperature as the building remained unheated for the winter. The hotel, positioned at the top of a tall hill overlooking two bays, had the potential to be fabulous and may have been at one time but years of neglect and seeming indifference have rendered it mostly uninhabitable. Many rooms were closed because of the crumbling hillside. Many toilets, water heaters and room heaters did not function. The foul order of methane caused two members of the student population to become ill, plumbing issues which persisted and involved many student changing rooms repeatedly. No hot water, no water, sewage back ups, I could go on. For many of us the heat did not work properly in our rooms (or at all). The only heated area of the entire hotel was in the classroom and kitchen, the dining area and hotel lobby area remained unheated and frigid. The wifi access was available only in the unheated lobby or outside on the front patio... outside.... in the winter... getting the picture... and was so slow it was almost pointless to use. The resort town of the hotel was empty not really a soul around. Soverato, the nearest functioning town was about 20 min by taxi at a minimum of 15 Euros or over 20 bucks.

I myself was bitten by something in my room that sent me to the hospital. Bugs happen, I know, but I'm painting the full picture of my disappointment.

The first night of the welcome gala was a meal fit for a dive bar, touted as a wonderful display of regional specialities. This was my first pang of fear that this might not be what I had thought or what I was looking for.

The first two weeks were interesting and John Nocita the owner/ head chef displayed a knowledge that showed that he, at some point in his career, had a passion for this cuisine and for teaching about out it. We tasted many things which was fun but that is about where the main education and good treatment ended. To summarize, we did not have any guest chefs, we missed our excursions, we did not get to eat things we labored over for days, including homemade marmelata. A product we created through diligent work, we peeled and sectioned over 150 kilos of oranges FOR 2 DAYS and were told we would not get any to eat, especially "not to put on the crap we eat at breakfast" a direct quote from Chef John. This "crap" we ate at breakfast is the breakfast HE provided as part of our "gourmet" meals/food. Our meals were primarily pasta, pasta many times served with broccoli sauce, a sauce make by cooking the hell out of the cheapest thing that was a the market until it fell apart and turned into mush and tossing that with pasta. et voila, dinner. Bread was reheated and reserved for 3-4 days straight. The wine cost about 1 euro at the store in town, and was limited. After spending oh, 8 hours hand chopping fresh pork meat for sausages, chef John carelessly overcooked and didn't aid or teach other students to properly cook the many sausages they worked so hard to prepare, the sausages were ruined. Then, the ones we made properly- disappeared. We never ate them, never saw them again as was such for all of the conserves we made. It was as if we had paid to be treated badly, and work hard to make artisan foodstuffs that were probably sold or traded for …. who knows.

The chef and his girlfriend / co chef were condescending and he was verbally abusive in his treatment of the group. He threw things, carelessly flipped knives around and had tantrums. He frequently mentioned that he doesn't hurt or kill things any more. Nice. His behavior was unpredictable and unprofessional at times. It would appear that after realizing this, he would switch and would try to kiss and make up especially with certain members of the group. Another student referred to him as primitive and a classless thug. We payed money to be at a school that teaches and uplifts our creative passions not one that destroys our very confidence to even enter the kitchen.

I feel like John had once been passionate about Italian cuisine and somewhere in financial trouble or personality disorder has begun to see the students as money not as people he would like to help reach their potential... Confidences worn down, hope crushed, this was not a profession school, it is not what it professes to be. It may be very entertaining for some and at times was for me... but it is not what it professed to be.

I left early after several incidents that felt unsafe, too unprofessional and bold faced lies. One incident included John and another student arguing and nearly coming to blows. As this was happening, a group of us were held in the kitchen with the door closed and asked not to go out. There were several people who would have been capable of assisting these two come down from this argument rather than allowing it to escalate, many of us were actual adults. A student called the police and 4 of use decided to leave. I have respectfully asked for a refund and have been denied and insulted in the email that responded to my request. This is not the teacher for young impressionable kids, like the 20 somethings that attended. It feels like a con job, I think it was a con job. A beat you down until you believe this guy is your ticket to a career or something only he can give you. Or a buttering up that feels like buying a used car.

Instead, check into the many other opportunities in an actual kitchen, research food with the families of italy, read a good book on regional cuisine and take a month to travel. That's my two cents, for what it's worth, everyone has an opinion and this was mine.

France's coast Normandy and Brittany Mt Saint Michel, Carnac, Trouville

2012-05-14T04:07:00.000-06:00

This part of the trip went along the Brittany coast. I loved this area so much the food the people the sea. It was so interesting with all of the history and cultural mix from celtic origins, actually before that. There were sites of interest all along the way , castles, churches, monoliths and alignments ( stones all lined up facing certain directions in Carnac amazing.

My route

the beach at Carnac a nice place for a nap...

The amazing rocks and alignments, the Carnac Stones.

interesting statue

huge monolith, imagine, this was imported from afar by man, no trucks or machines...

Trouville, France

this was one of several I found intact but empty. The benefit of many rainy windy days in a row is that no one goes along the beach so there was much to find when I braved the elements.

on to Mont_Saint-Michel

the tide was out and people took tours out on the sand , there are areas of quick sand so it is dangerous, guides are needed.

My brother would love this sand surfing!

My nephew would love this a house of BUTTER! La Maison Du Burre in St. Malo

more photos of carnac super!

Normandy and the coast

2012-05-14T03:54:00.003-06:00

As I begin the journey from Paris I stop in Giverny that town of Monet, and see his home and fantastic garden. So the post dedicated to this place. I then proceed to travel Normandy a beautiful norther region of France. I admit I did not spend enough time there. I went to the town of Rouen. Famous for Joan Of Arc Rouen. Then to the coast along to Le Havre, Trouville-sur-Mer, Deauville. I just loved these coastal areas and being one of the few people there at the time it was magical.

Paris to Angers map and destinations

Rotisserie chicken at the Rouen market. Notice the potatoes at the bottom soaking up all of the juices! They have another with other roasts, proc and such.

The road this was the most vibrant green. All of the rain is fertile for spring.

This was brilliant yellow. this cloudy day doesn't do it justice, so bright.

the bridge connecting Le Havre to Honfleur

Deauville

Trouville

Deauville

Trouville

Monet's garden

2012-05-14T02:36:00.002-06:00

A little detour on my way to Rouen. For some reason the name Giverny sounded important to me while looking at the map. As this road trip was particularly spontaneous I followed my instincts and low and behold Monet's garden. I knew I knew it. It was 5 pm and I was nearly alone here, a magical experience. It was raining a bit but it was still a fairytale garden.

the town

the front of Monet's house

the tulips were fantastic!

amazing

different areas different themes

look familiar

Cooking up a little something in Paris- Macarons and a walk in the rain.

2012-04-25T09:02:00.000-06:00

Weather report for the next 10 days - rain-. Dang it. Ive been walking in it and strolling and enjoying myself between rain drops and sun bursts. Today I took a Macaron making class. fun! My chef teacher was at La Varenne Ecole de cuisine for years ( a school I attended in 1986) and was even there when I was so it was fun sharing stories about chefs past. I actually found myself strolling around the old neighborhood in the 7th before class. Small world. It is feeing much smaller to me now after traveling.

I have to say I cooked at home tonight just too cold to go back out. I nailed it! fennel and leek soup, simple and great. wild mushrooms with cream and leeks and reduced to a yummy intensity, I just put it on bread. oh my! So much for a light dinner. I did follow it up with a green salad... All ingredients from a few local markets that i've been wondering around.

Macaron class at La Cuisine Paris cooking school. http://lacuisineparis.com/content/english-speaking-cooking-classes-in-paris

Classes in english are available, this one was taught by a former La Varenne chef grad and current chef. Students fromUS, Paris, New Zealand and Australia and Me.

The egg whites after the sugar syrup went in, beautiful white and fluffy.

Pineapple for a filling

Pastry 101, the pastry bag and consistent sized little gems.

not in focus but the perfect crisp outside soft inside.

E voila ,, I guess I carried away and dont have a finished product to show... next time...

still beautiful eve on a rainy day

my cool staircase

A new look....

2012-04-24T10:20:00.003-06:00

Today I was experimenting and somehow changed the look of the blog. let me know what you think , better, worse moreconfusing. I guess all the goodies are on the left pane now... Im not sure I like it...

Thai Cooking school in Bangkok.

2012-04-24T08:56:00.004-06:00

Cooking Thai food in Bangkok. After checking out several schools this one proved to be the most entertaining and actually low key as well as informative. With a classroom full of internationals from Brazil, Australia, Japan, England, Switzerland and the US, we enjoyed the relaxed atmosphere and yummy food. So after freezing my tush off in Italy for the last several months, I am now sweating it off in humid Bangkok. As this was rather spontaneous I am glad for the few warm weather clothing items I happened to pack. Mostly yoga clothes. These are quite a few photos beginning with a market visit and through various classes on different Thai dishes. Wow what a switch in food. And after the crappy food we were fed at the Italian Institute of crappy food and abuse, Im thrilled with the fresh and fantastic food i am experiencing in Thailand.

this is coconut milk processing , this bowl contains the shredded coconut that later we will squeeze to get the coconut mil we use for the amazing dishes we prepare.

Fish and shrimp, Thai style. I love going to different market. This one is actually quite small and really clean and no stinky smells. Other markets have all of the dried fishes, shrimps and other sea things then when dried smell very strong ! this one is bright and cheery perhaps it caters to all of the cooking schools in the area. It seems to be everywhere that I see little signs for cooking schools, so it is quite a business.

our baskets of goodies

work station #1

fresh goodness, such beautiful bounty

Hard at work making coconut milk

the classroom, this school seems to be in an apartment complex and uses several apartments on one floor of this building, our kitchen is in the front outside hall between the apartment/rooms of the school. Again after the crap at the Italian school this actually feels comfy.

soup fixins

My very own creation! soup of the Thom yum variety, lemon grass, galangal, glad I left out a few chilies my dining companions are sweating!!

So cute , little touches... Italy shame on you...

Aren't the trays beautiful, an added simple touch.

Pad Thai!! ingredients, from the bottom left- chilies, peanuts, I forgot :(, palm sugar, tamarind juice, fish sauce, bean sprouts, green onion, tofu, egg...

Ta Daaaa!! served with a bit f extra sugar, peanuts, chile and lime.

the biggy- green curry, FRESH green curry. We were told that is so cheap to buy already made curry or full meals that people usually eat out and buy ready made because the cost to purchase all of these spices and herbs and things doesnt really make sense...Hmmm, cause this was by far the best green curry I have EVER so to me it was truly worth it.

Oh, green curry and black rice with and without flash. Amazingly good, I made it myself :)

sticky rice in the hat

Oh, chicken salad and sticky rice. also so good

steamed banana with coconut milk to finish. then on to a nap.

Not good at change

2012-04-24T08:16:00.002-06:00

I feel like my parents. As I sit here attempting to make sense out of a new Blogger format, I barely had an idea of how to handle the last version now we are on to another, I find myself remembering my father and the VCR. I have become my parents. I left several unfinished blogs in draft mode awaiting my photos and I can't seem to figure out how to find them now... Perhaps in time I will.

Buddhas in Bangkok

2012-02-29T10:25:00.000-07:00

Here are a few photos of a few Buddhas in Bangkok.

This is the reclining Buddha. It is huge. I took several photos from various angels and in some included people to show its enormity.

the feet

This is the bottom of the feet mosaics of pictorials

close up of the bottom of the feet

one of the small pictorials

the back of the head

Another Buddha , this was near the palace

as were these

Notice the woman with the vacuum. we were all standing there in silence trying to be meditative and respectful and then this woman came in and began vacuuming. We had a good chuckle.

A special touch at the hotel

2012-02-25T04:01:00.000-07:00

A special touch in the room. The day I arrived I had an array of small purple Orchids, so perfect in fact I assumed them to be fake. The next day I noticed a change and then realized these to be real. So I am taking a photo of all of them as they change because I appreciate the touch so much. This hotel is a lovely oasis from the chaos outside. I don't think it is extreme traffic, having grown up in Chicago and lived in several cities.

Another day in Bangkok- night too- the night market scene

2012-02-24T03:38:00.000-07:00

Another day in this bustling town. What a difference from the sleepy town we were in near Soverato, Italy. Another friend has appeared in this town and a group of us went out to enjoy more yellow curry crab and a night out in the night market. ( more like meat market- and not the steak kind) Back at home I was often in bed by 10 and up by 6, my schedule has had several changes over the past few months. In Rome, I adjusted to the mid day huge lunch followed by an equally huge nap and later nights and large meals most of the time. This continued for most of Italy until school- no naps but my nights were now later as I discovered blogging,online books and online movies/tv. (old habits die hard).

Now it would seem that staying out until 2am and sleeping until noon was the new for last night. I am attending another cooking school tomorrow so an earlier night is preferred. The night market was so intense I forgot to take photos so I will do my best to explain. I'm embarrassed to say what shows were being offered for our viewing pleasure ( some involved ping pong balls and others darts or "lady boys") I had heard about this before but as this trip was impromptu I had conveniently parked this information deep in the dark hallways of my mind. Until last night. We walked through areas of stalls selling clothes, watches, t shirts , knock off purses and wallets, lighting , jewelry and other trinkets. Most stalls repeating the wears every 4 or 5 stalls. these stalls were along the main road and through the center of a wide side road. These stalls were flanked by various bars and night clubs and the occasional restaurant. It began to close down around 1 am. at least the stalls selling . It looked as if the bars would continue for a while. After an interesting cab ride back to the hotel I was happy for a shower in my beautiful rain shower. The hotel is very nice. the room is great and a perfect size. The bed is dreamy comfortable and the AC is perfectly cold. All in all the hotel is a great find. But again I have the newest set if jumping kids above my head. Tonight going out to see a rooftop restaurant or two...

Ronald McDonald in Namaste

2012-02-23T03:56:00.000-07:00

Namaste

Day one Bangkok- doing pretty well so far

2012-02-22T00:18:00.002-07:00

After a disappointment with the Culinary School in Calabria my friend Abeehru and I decided to make lemonade out of lemons. We arrived in warm and friendly Bangkok. I have never been here before and am pleasantly surprised with the warmth of the people every where we go here. We began our day with a delicious lunch of fried grouper and yellow curry crab and the best iced coffee i've ever had. We will try another school here, and plenty of culinary research - eating :)

A view from the restaurant near the hotel

beautiful and yummy too, this came with a green papaya salad that was quite hot ( not quite rip your tongue off hot but hot !)

Yellow Curry crab

We are happy now, good food, good friendship good day!

More Venice- winter in Venice

2012-02-21T07:18:00.000-07:00

This was a sight. The canals of Venice frozen.

Gondoliers still hopeful...

The far side of town... must have been a bit warmer. The waters here were home to over 300 shilling companies and 15,000 workers in the 1500's (I believe that is the time). This was a cool neighborhood with a large park that was kept and maintained to assist people with the claustrophobia that often sets in when in Venice's narrow streets. This was a working class neighborhood back in the day.

Aspects of Venice

2012-02-20T06:50:00.000-07:00

There are many photos here I couldn't pick just a few so Ill keep the writing mostly here and captions by some photos. Many years a go my brother and I spent a summer doing the post college summer trek. I recall Venice and almost skipped it for sights previously unseen. Let's just say I am so glad I went back. I must say I am thoroughly enchanted by Venice. It was cold, I mean COLD. I wore my long johns and wool pants and it was still COLD. I went with a few classmates from culinary school. We rented a great apartment well located to everything we wanted to see. Six adults sharing one bath, we did pretty darn good. These photos are in no particular order and are taken on my phone as I still have not fixed my "good" camera. I think the little Blackberry is doing pretty well considering.

Canals and more canals. This place is a maze of canals. ( I am speaking as if no one has been here just to help my descriptive process flow, I do not mean to insult anyone who has) Per usual my traveling companion of three months and I wandered out without a plan or map and as usual discovered beauty and excitement around each turn. We feel we should write a guide how to get lost in Italy and see everything anyway.

This little guy was hanging around the fish market which was closed for two days and in tis place was an antiques market. I guess he missed the news flash. He was drinking from this fountain while people came and left from this fountain filling their own bottles. He would just step aside and wait and then resume his drinking. He actually was not little at all.

The Grand Canal

Ok, this is a mask made of Chocolate. A little hazy through the window but worth showing.

First lunch in Venice. Another just turned a corner and decided it was the place.. Pasta with Gambero Rosso ( seasonal re shrimp just coming into season) with pistachios.

Just by chance we decided to get tickets to see and hear a concert of Vivaldi's Four Seasons ( but of course, when in Venice). The lead violinist is missing here I was so captivated by him and his stage presence I forgot to take a photo. I was moved to goose bumps and tears this was definitely a highlight.

Too cute these two!

With Carnival about a week away things were gearing up with walking theater, costumes, balls and concerts. The city was buzzing with festivities.

The Grand canal

Masks abound

A walk to and through the "Jewish Ghetto" Just amazing and fascinating.

For Jay Leno, "Tratoria all antica Mold"

Strange but typical- a quick post

2012-02-20T02:09:00.000-07:00

For some reason there is a german family camped in the hall outside of my hotel room with all of their belongings and two young children spread all over the hallway crumpling piles of plastic bags for the past hour. I had the opportunity to change rooms today as the original room I booked wasn't ready yesterday. I decided to stay in this room because it was quite... go figure. I have had a strange Karma with rooms for the past few years. (up until now...) if there was a banging door Ill be next to or above it, a fighting couple , jumping children on my ceiling, a party or elevator dinging... Don't know why, wish it would stop. Maybe when I get to the point I can laugh every time it happens it will stop. Today I am laughing and wondering... but as I had hoped for a nap, not going to happen... they are literally leaning on the wall of my room.. Im in a nice hotel too. I'm making an assumption they are either awaiting entry to their room, lost their keys, are too hot to go out or are catching a late flight. they did not want my help so...

But for today all I know is that I have A/C a terrifically comfortable bed and equally comfortable pillows for the first time in 3 months, I am no longer freezing my tucas off without hot water in a dumpy hotel in Calabria. It is a good day. :) My wish is for everyone to have a good day too.
this is what my nice room looks like.. its a good day

Valentine's Day in Venice

2012-02-20T00:28:00.001-07:00

This is a candy store window is so beautiful it deserves a large photo.

This one too wow

Next, after a grand time wandering the streets of Venice on Valentine's day eve we enjoyed two apperativo places. Aperativo- A type of happy hour pay a price for a drink and eat from a buffet of various items such as pasta, crostini ( toasted bread with toppings), cheeses vegetables. Our first stop was a place we visited the night before. Standing room only and by the piece priced crostini. Topped with Baccala Montecato ( salt cured / dried cod reconstituted in milk and whipped up with cream / olive oil and parsley- like a chunky very rich mousse: cheese and onion or peperoncino marmalata, various prosciutto, sardines and anchovies. We sang along with gondoliers to Italian classics and laughed. So fun we went two nights in a row.

The headed to another restaurant on a hidden canal and dock near the grad canal. The fist live music played here was a piper and drum trio. We had bumped onto this trio 3 other times that day. It was fun and lively and a reason to enjoy a second Aperativo.

The band

The dark grand canal

Then we were off to have dinner. Yes another meal..

Fennel soup

Baccala Montecato- my new favorite dish

Masks on the table for Carnival

After the meal

hear the band live !!

Snow- White Carnival- Bologna

2012-02-19T06:50:00.001-07:00

So, any of you from Chicago, or other parts with snowy winters may see this as a normal picture of a snowy airport. This however is the Bologna, Italy airport on Feb 11, 2012. I was on my way from Soverato , Calabria to Venice for some Carnival fun when the Rome airport closed and I opted to take a flight to Bologna and take the train the rest of the way to Venice. This is what I arrived into in Bologna. Snow! Like over a foot. De-icing of planes was taking place. At this and many if not most of the airports Ive been flying to deplane down the stairs and then you are taken by bus to the terminal.. This sight was surreal, standing on the tarmac next to these large planes in the snow with bull dozers all around trying to keep up with the snow and ice. I felt like I was in Chicago only without the benefit of inside gates.

Bologna countryside on the way home a few days later. Still white.

First Menu Execution- Northern Italy

2012-02-09T15:21:00.000-07:00

Here is a copy of the first menu we did for the school. It was our first menu execution. We were split into 2 groups north and south. I was voted head chef and we created menu to present to the judges and our peers based on a few rules. Things we had seen made at school and related to the section of italy. It was pretty fun. We will have several more of these before the end. Kind of reminded me of my production days, all about project and time management.

Italia Nord

Quail Galantine stuffed with truffles on a saffron Potato Crisp topped with a Grappa and Balsamico Traditional pickled Onion

Baccala Montecato con Pane Di Sepia Toast

Squash Ravioli in a Sage butter Sauce con Parmigiano Regiano and Fried Sage Leaf

Risotto al Porcini con Balsamico Tradizionale

Persico alla Livornese con Polenta

Focaccia Genovese

Tiramisu

Italia Nord

Leek Roulade with Truffles and Toasted Hazelnuts topped with a Mele Balsamico Tradizionale

Cauliflower Montecato con Pane Di Sepia

Ricotta and Parmesan Ravioli con Burro Salvia e Parmigiano Regiano and a crispy sage Leaf

Risotto Porcini con Parmigiano Regiano e Balsamico Tradizionale

Eggplant Livornese con Polenta

Focaccia Genovese

Tiramisu

Beautiful Calabria and its bounty Blue Fin Tuna

2012-02-08T10:24:00.000-07:00

Calabria is at the southern tip of Italy. It is surrounded by seas. There are 3 seas in this area of Italy. About 200 meters off the coast the sea drops to an abyss of 3000 meters. Just north, in the Bay of Taranto, Blue Fin Tuna Spawn. Down by Calabria the young swim by and here there is a proliferation of small tuna. As they round the tip of Italy and enter the Mer Tyrrhenian and are in the the area of Sicily they grow larger and are readily available there and across to Sardinia. Italy map This is the only area that has Tuna.

Conserves Week

This week we are making conserves in class. We are conserving Tuna as well as other fishes , vegetables and fruits.

Blue Fin Tuna

Guts of Blue Fin Tuna

Cooking The Tuna

Tuna has been cooked

Separating the sections to prepare for conserving or jarring.

This is as far as we got on this particular project today. We do multiple things at a time throughout the day and keep quite busy. much of what we are learning is artisan or old world. We are learning what has worked for centuries and why and then making wonderful traditional dishes with the ingredients as we go along. Some of the curing times for what we produce are days others months and over a year for others. Guess I'll have to come back next year to taste what we made. We are now tasting what the class of last year made. So far they did a great job. The process may not look glamourous but the results we are getting are so entirely worth the effort we put in.