My Own Coquille Permaculture Project - Since 2010

9 level food forest. not 7

2015-09-27T07:55:00.000-07:00

9 level food forest. not 7

Are you familiar with the 7 level food forest that was championed by Robert Hart long ago? Well, for a while here in the Pacific Northwest it is easy to observe the 8th level, or the Mycellium layer of connections, but there is one many commercial farmers neglect and that is the soil, it has to be fed too, and that is the 9th layer. So I believe and am trying to work on a 9 layer system in my food forest areas.

Here, our canopy height can vary greatly depending on where someone is along the coast of Oregon, let alone the entire Pacific Northwest coast. It can be as high as Redwoods (300' high) or as low as standard fruit & nut trees.   It all depends on the needs of the property and the land owner.

The next layer is the Lower Tree Layer, which can be semi-dwarf or dwarf fruit and nut trees. Diversity is key always. Monocultures of any kind of tree is bad for your food forest, mix it up, diversify the portfolio that is your food forest. Grafts are a great way to add more types of food diversity.

Shrub Layer such as large berry bushes be they currents, high bush blueberries, goumi, autumn olive, huckleberries. Many are nitrogen fixing for our trees when chopped and dropped. It is important to have some in the food forest to continue having nitrogen available at the root and myclieum layers.

The Herbaceous layer such as comfreys, artichokes, cardoons, is next. Not only do you find your herbs here, but you can chop and drop many as rough mulch which will eventually compost over your winter season.

A Rhizosphere layer such as beets, carrots, daikon, burdoc, wasabi, horseradish has an important job in the forest. They break up the deep soil, and bring up nutrients from deep in the soil back up to the surface to be recycled by other plants.

Ground cover such as strawberries or low insectirary plants such as Bugleweed.   I am actively trying to rid ourselves of a lawn here, I don't feel the need to have a noble lords estate, I would rather feel part of nature as opposed to it.

The seventh layer is that of the Vertical climbers such as Ivy, Kiwi fruit, Wisteria, Nasturtium and more. This would normally end the typical 7 layer food forest, but I have to keep going, observation has taught me otherwise.   To see these growing up trees is often a very beautiful sight.

Next is the Mycellium layer. Mushrooms & fungi, the decayers of the forest have their own layer. They help trees & plants of the forest communicate between each other, they break down carbon materials on the forest floor and provide food.    These are the hard working carbon sequestering members that make trees happy in the forest. This is why chemical orchards have to spray so much as well. Grass & prairies are normally bacteria dominated soils. Trees want the opposite, they want a mushroom and fungal dominated soil which allows the tree to be more resilent and resist things like blight. Two things to read up on this subject would be Wild Apples by Henry David Thoreau and Akinori Kimura's MIRACLE APPLES by Takuji Ishikawa. which you can find online translated into English by Yoko Ono at http://imaginepeace.com/miracleapples/

The last layer is the soil itself. It in my opinion should be regarded as a living thing, although I understand it to be so much more. Our farm soils were once filled with billions upon billions of microscopic life feeding, sharing, breaking down the soil. You can understand this life without ever seeing it. When you double dig or till up soil and you are exposing them to the sunlight and without any protection they all die in a flash. This is why you get a bumper crop when you first start out, but then the soil is hurting for lack of better written illustration and you have to start supplementing. A result of this is why some monoculture farmers believe they need chemicals to grow food, just like an addict that needs his daily crack.   Now a days people buy humus from other places such as Alaska and shipped to all climates of the world to help with this very problem, not realizing that local microrganisms would be better off to be taken care of. To do this, all you need to do is add your 18 day Berkeley method compost once or twice a year.

So there you have it, a new way of looking at the traditional food forest. Thank you and good night.

A Television Show I Would Actually Watch

2013-02-20T14:19:00.001-08:00

Back in 2003 when my partner and I were living under horrid conditions we watched a television show on Discovery Channel that kept showing us that you can actually have fun with your house on the inside and bring it outside. In the short time of 5 days several people would get together and renovate a home under a theme such concepts as Pirates, Surfers, Bali, NYC, Vikings or Mobsters.

That show was called Monster House, hosted by Steve Watson. A no non-sense general contractor that made sure everything was up to code and the project was given back to the home owners on time no matter what, and rewarded those that finished ahead of time.

Well, it came to me in a flash today, what about a show that Permablitzed a home or property? They go in, help retrofit the inside and outside for self-sufficiency for people that want it. Special episodes can be to help the elderly or public / animal parks.

With peak fuel consumption, resources running out, and self-sufficiency being important in times of local crisis, shows like this only serve to strengthen the American infrastructure & local communities.

Ah well, I can dream....

Strategies to Deal With Heavy Metals on Your Property.

2013-02-04T12:51:00.001-08:00

In many parts of the world there are heavy metal problems. Be it from radioactive sources, or from oil based vehicles going by our road & water ways. Here are some ways to deal with these problems.

2 of the best things one could possibly use is sunflowers, and C. Sativa. I know of no places where you can currently use industrial, or medical C. Sativa for this purpose sadly. Both plants pull up heavy metals as we all as radioactive particles. Sunflowers were used, and are still used all over Japan's nuclear radiated zones. Oyster mushrooms do the same thing but have the added bonus of still being edible. One can even use oyster mushrooms to clean up oil spills both on the property, and at large elsewhere in the world. These are then pulled from the ground (sadly) and removed from the site and taken to a proper radioactive incineration facility.

If someone places more willows & vetiver along the major roadway by the river to help the river with petrol products along the road as well. People can also use some scented geraniums along roads as well to help with the lead and other exhausts.

The plant Water Hyacinth which is a nuisance in many areas also help remove lead that gets into the water system. Research has also found out that Fish bones are made of the phosphate mineral apatite, which readily combines with lead to form pyromorphite, a stable crystalline mineral that can’t be absorbed by the human digestive system.1,2 Now researchers are using fish bones and other phosphate-rich amendments to remediate lead in urban soils. “We have seen reduction in bioaccessibility in some lab samples up to fifty percent within just a few weeks of treatment,” says Steve Calanog of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), who is overseeing an agency project using fish bones to clean up soils in the South Prescott neighborhood of Oakland, California.
Luckily shellfish also contain this mineral and is also a ready free source of material to me and people along the coastal areas of the world. Spreading it just like one would dolomite works well, and doesn't require the destruction & use of petrol chemicals that dolomite does require.

There are a great many ways to bioremediate soil & water, just takes research and patience to do something right as with many things in life.

(Source: EPAWest Oakland Lead Cleanup. San Francisco, CA:U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Region 9 (Jul 2011). Available: http://www.epaosc.org/sites/5604/files/West%20Oakland%207_11%20Book.pdf
Miretzky P, Fernandez-Cirelli A.. Phosphates for Pb immobilization in soils: a review. Environ Chem Lett 6(3):121–133. 2008. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s10311-007-0133-y
Wright J, et al. PIMS Using Apatite II™: How It Works To Remediate Soil and Water. In: Sustainable Range Management-2004, Hinchee RE, Alleman B, eds. Columbus, OH:Battelle Press (2004). In: Proceedings of the Conference on Sustainable Range Management, 5–8 Jan 2004, New Orleans, LA. Available: http://www.pimsnw.com/files/1howapatiteiiworks30.pdf [accessed 12 Dec 2011] )

The Synergistic Garden by E. Hazelip

2012-07-28T10:47:00.002-07:00

This information used to be free, but it was taken down a long time ago off the Internet. However, with use of the Wayback Machine, with assistance from a Permaculture Research Institute forum member, I was able to recover & re-share this information from a student of Fukuoka.

The Synergistic Garden
by Emilia Hazelip

Reproduced from Prodder, translated from French by Linda Hull
(Permaculture Magazine - www.permaculture.co.uk)

Emilia Hazelip, who introduced the concept of permaculture to France over a decade ago, is constantly evolving her work and has been developing a food growing method which she calls 'Synergistic Agriculture'.

Emilia Hazelip's work is strongly influenced by Masanobu Fukuoka's system of 'natural agriculture', by permaculture and Marc Boufils's agronomical research, as well as by her own experimental work growing food crops with minimal inputs in the south of France and in other Mediterranean countries.

The first surprise when you enter Emilia's kitchen garden is seeing vegetables growing in a quite disorderly fashion on oblong mounds of earth 1.2 meters (5ft) wide by 8 meters (26ft) long. The rule is to make space for the feet and space for the plants, because putting feet where plants are to grow leads to soil compaction and where there is no air in the soil nothing will grow. The cultivated areas are well demarcated, their elevated form giving a notable increase in surface area for production. Moreover, they are all covered with mulch - covering the soil to preserve the organic material, preventing erosion and compaction by rain, diminishing evaporation in summer and maintaining a soil microclimate which reduces the adverse effects of temperature extremes. Protecting the soil in this way removes the need to aerate it each year. Emilia claims that there is no need to fertilize the soil because it is left to maintain itself: 'soil autofertility'. Instead of pulling out all the plants and leaving the ground bare over winter to suffer the effects of erosion, some plants and all roots are left in the soil, their decomposition assuring a continuous reserve of organic matter in the soil.

This also has other benefits. Leeks, for example, are cut down to the white part, then left two to three weeks to produce a second crop. Afterwards roots are left in the soil where they regenerate making seed for the following year.

In this experimental garden, the gourd is neighbor to the tomato seedling which itself is found beside beans or peppers. Because thought is given to companion planting and guilds, diversity helps plants to defend themselves better against diseases and pests. This combination of plants also supports the soil's autofertility.

You can see, here and there, flowers and weeds, or rather what are called here 'spontaneous plants'. You don't pull these out (not all, anyway) because, being indigenous, they attract insects and other organisms in the soil which are beneficial. For all these reasons, it is better to combine the greatest diversity of plants, even those which we think of as useless.

Emilia says it's necessary to allow a certain number of pests (or so-called pests) to live in the garden because they sometimes work as the gardener's helpers. If, for example, you eradicate the colonies of greenfly, the ladybirds which feed on them will no longer come and will not be there to regulate the greenfly population or to fight off the next new invasion of insects.

However, the problem of slugs is still not resolved. The ducks, which have a small pond in the middle of the garden, turned out to be inefficient (they're asleep when the slugs are in full swing!). Emilia is looking for other predators to intervene in the biological struggle. She's going to reintroduce the hedgehog and, with the co-operation of a local agricultural researcher, experiment with the efficiency of the scarab, a small beetle which is a natural predator of the slug.

Finally a synergistic garden is an ecosystem that is consciously designed to allow all the dynamic life forms present in a wild soil to remain present while still growing crops (on whatever scale). It is that simple. But that's not the view commonly held in the sphere of science or in the politics of agribusiness which rule France. Emilia exclaims passionately: "The living world is not understood by the technician, and since it is not understood, it is not studied for its diversity. People always want to apply mechanical laws to it..."

We have inherited an agriculture which has always disturbed the soil in order to prepare the next crop. The ancient agriculture of the Incas, the Mayas and the Orient also prepared the fields in such a way. Culturally, this activity has been honored and sung by poets. Ecologically, pedologically, it is a catastrophe.

A natural, non-traumatized soil presents a subtle balance of thousands of diverse specific organisms. From friendly bacteria to fungi, the presence of all these invisible subtle lives allows complex interactions - the 'Synergistic Effect'. Among the dynamic processes in the soil, I think that the ethylene-oxygen cycle is a good example of this wondrous world.

How can we give back to the soil something to compensate, and return it to natural uncultivated health? We cannot recreate that quality while we keep on destabilizing the rhizosphere. The only way is to learn a type of agriculture that will reconcile the maintenance of soil 'wildness' and the production of crops. This has been my endeavor for over 20 years. I call the system I have evolved 'Synergistic Agriculture', utilizing the self-fertility of the wild soil as fertilizer. This agriculture can be practiced on any scale and all the machinery used in the U.S.A. and Canada for no-till agriculture can be used for Synergistic Agriculture.

THE BACKGROUND

The foundation of my research is the work of Masanobu Fukuoka, whose book The One Straw Revolution changed my life in 1977 when it was published in English. In Fukuoka's natural agriculture no machines are used, nor greenhouses, nor all those things we normally have to do when working in a difficult climate. To me what seemed most important was to be able to obtain crops without 'exploiting' the soil, even if a compromise is made regarding machines. Before encountering Fukuoka's work, I had been working near Chadwick, in Santa Cruz, California in the late '60s. Following the reading (also in the '60s) of Ruth Stout's books Gardening Without Work and How to Have a Green Thumb Without an Aching Back, I began covering beds with a variety of materials.

Since then I have made raised beds in all my gardens, although the difference in volume came only from the soil taken off the path and put on the bed... no double-digging at all.

In 1985, during the first permaculture design course with Sego Jackson in the Pyrenees, Marc Bonfils gave a presentation on self-fertile cereal production. Since then Marc has been teaching about the agronomical reasons behind this new method of agriculture. Nowadays, microbiologists like Alan Smith and Elaine Ingham are also providing much needed evidence of the well found need to stop altering the soil's stability and stressing it to exhaustion by plowing.

I cannot call this agriculture 'do-nothing' agriculture since, on the contrary, there is much to do to establish a succession of cultures where what you are leaving behind is as important as what you are harvesting. A detailed plan indicating the plant mixtures and successions, paying attention to the kind of root residue the soil is receiving combined constantly with nitrogen-fixing plants of the legumes variety, is a must.

SOIL & PLANT SYNERGY

Although to start the system the soil can be dug over thoroughly, once we start the garden we must be sure not to disturb the soil deeper than the sowing depth, and only then where it is sown. What consumes organic matter in the soil is the chemical reaction that follows when atmospheric gases are put in intimate contact with the soil while plowing. Although by mineralizing humus, a quick instant fertilizer has been produced, the price you pay for this is much too high. Plants' growth and health also depend on other substances like ethylene gas which enhances the assimilation of iron. Plants will be healthy if all the digestive flora in the soil are present. Soil and plants are a single organism.

Plants are the 'antenna' of the soil, capturing light and creating solid, organic, vegetable matter from the space above, since 95% of needed nutrients come from gases and light. In other words, the plant is only taking 21/2% of its needs from the soil in the form of minerals and trace elements. The remaining 21/2% of nutrients is nitrogen, which can be obtained in a symbiotic way by combining with nitrogen-fixing plants, mainly from the legumes family, like beans, chickpeas, favabeans, lentils and peas.

Harvesting is as important as the rest of the process. The soil is a living mass of interacting beings, and they all eat just like everything alive on this planet. Their foodchains are a wonder of intricate relationships covering the mineral, the vegetal, and the animal/insect/bacteria worlds.

When we disturb the soil by plowing it, despite our best intentions we are creating stress in it. The moment we stop doing this we can organize our garden or farm in such a way that the soil functions as if 'in the wild'. A maximum of what has grown in it is left either by its roots (for an above the ground crop) or by following a rootcrop by another crop which will leave generous amounts of roots in the soil, such as Swiss chard.

These residues, together with a biodegradable mulch, amount to surface composting, leaving more organic matter in the soil than the crop has removed. From the moment we stop mineralizing the humus, litter accumulates on the soil as well as in a myriad of microsites within it, hosting happy bacteria cycling between ethylene and oxygen, releasing biological gas essential to the wellbeing of all types of roots.

The less we disturb the soil, the more diversity and intensity of interactions will take place in its mass, so the healthier the plants and the fewer problems there will be for us. It is time for us to acknowledge that the soil needs to be itself while we produce our crops. We must respect this organism enough to let it function in its natural way although 'domesticated' by our technical care. The organisms in the soil are like the bloodstream of the human body which carries nutrients and participates in the assimilation of the minerals that are present.

Above the ground leaves act like photovoltaic cells, capturing light and producing energy. The only bridge doing this fantastic job is plants; it has always struck me as odd, that, although in the wild, plants are the first link in the food chains and are responsible for the creation of 'soil', in agriculture, on the other hand, they are accused of destroying the soil. Typical of Homo occidentalis, the crops have been made a scapegoat for the negative effects of plowing!

The soil should never be opened up and forcefed, not even with the best made compost ever. Leave only to the soil what is grown in it. As for the rest put it above the soil, as mulch. And let all the soil occupants absorb it into its mass.

I truly believe that as long as we have not found peace with the soil, we won't find peace above the ground. That as long as we justify the exploitation of an organism, other exploitations will follow and we will remain parasites, consuming more than participating and spiralling into entropy until we commit mass suicide.

The Four Principles Of Synergistic Agriculture

1. Keep the soil undisturbed and uncompacted.
2. Use the soil's self-fertility as fertilizer.
3. Integrate the litter zone with the agricultural soil profile.
4. Establish a partnership with beneficials to protect crops.

Raised beds are only needed where crops are harvested continually. For areas where produce is harvested once only, a good layer of mulch will he enough to protect the soil from compaction.

The following examples apply to raised beds in regions with a temperate climate, where nighttime temperatures in the winter do not fall below -10 degrees C. For gardens in more extreme latitudes, or at high altitudes, a quite different strategy is needed. Equally for climates that are frost-free in winter an alternative planting and cropping succession plan will apply.

In my experience the positive or negative results that I have had with sowing dates have happened as a result of studying the development of plants throughout the season, in relation to weather etc. (I've long since given up following the lunar/cosmic calendar, there being insufficient evidence of results to justify the time and complication of applying it.) Perhaps certain influences come from our attitude rather than from further afield... and besides a happy, self-fertile soil does influence germination and the growth of plants.

Let's look then at how to handle production for a three-year cycle (which can be repeated indefinitely) on three different raised beds.

RAISED BED 1
YEAR 1 April
Sow root vegetables in lines, planted 25-30 centimeters apart, of carrots and/or beets, as well as turnips on the flat top of the raised bed. When sowing small seeds, push back the mulch in the line to be sown, and without 'working the soil', simply make an indentation the same length as the line, put your seeds in as you normally do and sprinkle some soil on top. Then put some pressure on the soil so that it adheres to the seed. If the seeds are small do not replace the mulch, but do keep the area moist. This crop can be combined with any type of sweet garden pea, which can be sown either in pockets or across the narrow bed every 2-3 meters.

On the sides of the raised bed plant in a zig-zag pattern; try onion sets or seedlings interspersed with any type of lettuce or salad chicory. Keep the sides permanently planted with cut and come again salads, planting new seedlings next to the plants that are going to seed. When the onions are harvested, use the same zone for new onion varieties, or for garlic or leeks. Over a period of time you should try to plant 'salads' where the onions were, and put the liliaceous varieties where the salads were. The sides of all raised beds should be treated similarly except where you want to grow perennial chives or other perennial or self-seeding members of the same family.

Be sure to sow flowers too in all your beds: calendula (predominantly the orange variety), as well as all types of French marigolds and nasturtiums, paying attention to their growth pattern. Each bed should have at least one of each of these plants as beneficial companions to the crops. Plant them on the flat top of the raised bed, but don't let them take up too much space.

July
As you harvest the root crop, sow mustard greens in the same spaces. As the sweet garden peas are cut and left as mulch, sow pockets of beans at random.

September - October
Sow winter varieties of spinach as the mustard greens are harvested.

November
Sow broad beans or sweet garden peas among the spinach.

YEAR 2 March - April
Plant lines of Swiss chard plants among the broad beans. Sow legumes now if you didn't plant them last autumn (or if they didn't survive the winter).

June - August
Before harvesting the legumes, sow beans between the Swiss chard; continue putting in beans throughout the summer.

November
Sow broad beans or sweet garden peas (different varieties than last year), parallel with the lines of chard.

YEAR 3 March - April
Continue harvesting the Swiss chard until it begins to go to flower. As soon as this happens cut most of the plants back as low as possible. Depending on the size of the bed and how many plants you have, choose at least two, but not more than four, to stake and let go to seed. (Space doesn't allow for details of selecting which plants to choose for seed production). Planting parallel to the spent Swiss chard roots, begin a further root vegetable sowing following the Year I pattern; when choosing succession plants bear in mind the crop rotation, and try to avoid having two plants of the same family following each other.

RAISED BED 2
YEAR 1 March - April
Sow small peas in pockets, at 50-60 centimeters distance.

May
In the center of: the bed plant tomatoes in two zig-zag lines. In front of the tomatoes sow basil and coriander.

June
Sow beans among the tomatoes all through the summer.

November
Sow broad beans in between the dying/dead plants that have been cut and left as mulch.

YEAR 2 March - April
Tomato plants like growing on soil where tomatoes have been grown before, so no rotation strategy is needed - so repeat the Year I pattern although it's worth moving the plants round so that roots are distributed through all the soil (put the coriander where you had the basil and vice versa).

Autumn
For winter legumes alternate each year between sweet garden peas and broad beans.

YEAR 3 Spring
Repeat Year I or follow the pattern in raised bed 3 if you prefer to integrate a rotation pattern.

RAISED BED 3
YEAR 1 March - April
Sow small peas.

May
Plant (or sow) two rows of any type of squash in a wide zig-zag line towards the center of the bed, together with some sweet corn.

June
Begin sowing your beans.

August
In the spaces between the squash leaves, plant Chinese cabbage, broccoli or Brussels sprouts (the squash leaves providing shade to protect the transplanted seedlings).

November
Sow broad beans or sweet garden peas in between the cabbages.

YEAR 2 Spring
As harvesting progresses (always ensuring that you cut the plants and leave the roots undisturbed in the soil), you can sow spinach, mustard greens and/or borage and New Zealand spinach.

Summer
Sow beans among the other plants.

Autumn
Broad beans or sweet garden peas.

YEAR 3 Spring
Year 1 can be repeated or alternate with raised bed 2 (or another one).

WATERING Install a drip irrigation hose (a simple narrow hose with perforations every 25-30 centimeters works fine and shouldn't suffer from chalk build-up). 2 hoses per bed is the optimum, placed in parallel about l0 centimeters from the edges of the flat top of the raised bed.

SUPPORTS If you want to set up a system of supports which can be left permanently in place in the garden and which will not be damaged however strong the wind, try 6 meter long building rods (10 or 12 centimeter gauge) forming an arch across the beds. Attach a strong wire from the apex of each crossed arch to the next and these will form good supports for winter climbing peas as well as summer beans.

Be sure to use biodegradable string for attaching plants to the supports, so that at the end of the season you can simply undo the knots from the support and let string and plants mulch together on the bed. Cucumbers, melons and many squashes can be encouraged to climb in this way, thus freeing up a lot of space at ground level.

REMEMBER Gardening the self-fertility way produces a rich harvest: the more plants which live and die in the soil the richer and more fertile it becomes.

Reproduced from Prodder, translated from French by Linda Hull.

Further Readings:
1. Masanobu Fukuoka, The One-Straw Revolution. 1978. Rodale.
2. -The Natural Way of Farming. 1985. Japan Publications
3. -The Road Back to Nature. 1987. Japan Publications.
4. Ruth Stout. Gardening Without Work. 1961. Devin-Adair.
5.-How to Have a Green Thumb Without an Aching Back. 1968. Exposition Press.
6.-The Ruth Stout No-Work Garden Book. 1971. Rodale Press.
7. Alan Smith. "Secrets of the Living Soil." 1981. Permaculture International Journal #1
(or again in PIJ #39).
8. Lea Harrison. "Soil Fertility." Permaculture Activist #26.
9. Elaine Ingham. "Life in the Soil: Understanding the Soil Foodweb.'' Jan. 1997, Acres, U.S.A.
10. B. Mollison & D. Holmgren. Permaculture One. 1981. Tagari.
11. Marc Bonfils. LeSol el I 'Erosion. 1985. Las Encantadas.

Emilia Hazelip has taught permaculture for many years. She writes from the region of the Pyrenees Mountains in the southwest of France.

The Synergistic Garden Video Tape By Emilia Hazelip
Las Encantadas, BP 217, F-11306 Limoux-Cedex, France
Tel/Fax 33+46-83-15-111

An educational video on no-till synergistic gardening that describes the step-by-step processes developed by Emilia Hazelip to create an ecological agriculture. She became interested in Fukuoka's work in 1977 and this video shows the cultural and climatological adaptations she has developed in the course of years of research. Available in Spanish, French, Italian & English in many formats.

E. Hazelip & the Synergistic System

2012-07-24T09:26:00.004-07:00

E. Hazelip & the Synergistic System

Who is Emilia Hazelip?

She is someone I found about 5 years ago while studying Fukuoka that believes in gardening the same way Fukuoka does.

Emilia Hazelip (1938 - February 1, 2003) was an organic Permaculture gardener who was born in Spain and began gardening seriously in the late '60s. A former "Merry Prankster" and pioneer of the concept of synergistic gardening, her farming methods were inspired by the work of Masanobu Fukuoka.

Where Fukuoka focused most of his attention on orchards and the rice/barley crop rotation, Emilia Hazelip focused on creating and maintaining market gardens of vegetables and herbs.

Emilia Hazelip, who introduced the concept of permaculture to France over a decade ago, drew on many sources as she continued to develop gardens. The work of Permaculturist Marc Bonfils with self-fertile cereal production and the microbiological research of Alan Smith and Elaine Ingham are frequently mentioned.

Part 1 of 3
http://youtu.be/ugFd1JdFaE0

Part 2
http://youtu.be/Xa9yMjsSQC0

Part 3
http://youtu.be/lQmPT6jfttc

Her 4 principles of gardening echo that of Fukuoka.

1 - Continuous fertilization of the soil by a permanent organic cover crop.
2 - Growing the annual crops with the association of complimentary crops, integrating nitrogen fixing trees.
3 - No plowing, or any other type of soil disturbance, the soil works itself.
4 - The soil aerates itself so long as there is no compaction.

In a very very real sense, this is what anyone practicing the Linda Woodrow method is already doing. However the weeds aren't ever really removed, they were there for a reason. Lift the weed slightly from the soil, cut the plant at the root level. Leave roots in the soil, slightly pulled up and away, but not out. The "weed" is chopped and dropped.

The "Fukuoka Farming Website" used to have something called, "The Synergistic Garden" which explained in detail how to re-create the system Hazelip started however the Fukuoka Farming Website took down ALL the information regarding Fukuoka & Hazelip in order to sell books. Shame, it used to be a great site full of knowledge.

How to make a functional Orchard without Chemicals

2012-07-22T11:32:00.000-07:00

I already have Scions on the mind, (not the car) and I was thinking of next spring. We plan to graft & grow 20 fruit trees at a minimum next spring & I went to FedCo Trees to check on a new Scion list. Instead I found something wonderful to share.

They made a great PDF on the polyculture apple orchard they are making on 1 acre. Some of the plants include but are not remotely limited to are blueberries, nettles, clovers, dill, chives, asparagus, daikon radish, bee balm and so much more. To see the diagrams you will need to download a 5 page pdf.

This system can be used with chemicals, but honestly, you don't need to. The chemical Ag age is over, time to rebuild our soils & clean the waters.

http://www.fedcoseeds.com/trees/functional_orchard.htm

Monsanto & Walmart set to Experiment on Humans this Summer

2012-06-21T08:35:00.003-07:00

Monsanto & Walmart set to Experiment on Humans this Summer, there really is no way to sugar coat this.

You awake yet?

Walmart has made a deal with Monsanto to sell genetically modified corn that has had NO TESTING ON HUMANS, & it won't be labeled.

"But hey man, I don't care, I need to feed my family!!"

Really? This corn contains a Bt Toxin that protects the plant by causing the stomachs of insects to explode. Now while Monsanto falsely claims that this toxin breaks down by the time it is on your plate the claim is sadly not true. Rats that have been fed the corn have repeatedly had organ failure, and that family your are protecting & feeding bad news, the toxin is showing up in pregnant women.

What could this mean for your unborn child? What can happen to your grandchildren if humans continue to walk down this path? Since Corn is feed for chickens, and all sorts of other animals what does it mean for them?

I for one am growing my own corn this year, and every year. GMO Crops are just too damaging to our world, and our health.

Here is the link for you to do your own thinking:

http://www.occupymonsanto360.org/2012/03/01/walmart-to-sell-monsanto-gmo-corn-this-summer/

Walmart is set to sell a new form of genetically-engineered (GE) sweet corn as early as this summer. Monsanto’s Bt sweet corn contains three GE traits that have never before been consumed directly by humans, and have not been subjected to thorough safety testing. There will be no labeling whatsoever indicating that the corn is a genetically modified organism.

Source: http://www.occupymonsanto360.org (http://s.tt/18OnG)

Straw bale Garden Update

2012-06-15T11:09:00.001-07:00

Finally, seedlings in all the beds are starting to come up, take a look.

Daikon radish, snow peas, and more are starting to grow. These beds are very very water hungry.

Cucumber Polyculture

2012-06-15T10:53:00.000-07:00

I have been way too busy to write and for that I apologize. You can always get daily quick updates over at:

http://www.facebook.com/coquille.permaculture

Anyway, with that said I did plant a polyculture for my cucumbers today. I am growing 2 kinds of cukes this year (Yak Kao & Snow's Pickling both are heirloom varieties), which got started separately. In the bed however I broadcasted the following seeds:

Borage
Dill
Marjoram
Lettuce (3 kinds)
Nasturtium
Radish
and Kong Sunflowers

The hope is that the sunflowers will provide enough of a trellis for the cukes, the rest are complimentary or beneficial plants that get along together.

Have a great day, I need to get back outside.

2012-05-08T21:08:00.002-07:00

Planted "Skorospelska" Sunchokes today that I got from Moose Tubers. Of the 3 pounds that came, one did not come in good shape, but I planted it anyway.

I was surprised to learn not many people know how to companion plant Sunchokes and was lead to believe it might be good to grow with rhubarb or corn, and that it truly is a Native American plant.

So I planted it as a windbreak in 2 places of my vegetable kitchen garden area that has my Seed of Life garden in the middle. Since I have another pound to plant, I am considering planting some with the corn, beans, squash, bee balm plantings.

I could go on and on about what else I did, but the funny thing of it all. I sat down around 5pm thinking of what to cook for dinner, and the next thing I know it was 7pm.

Hmm, still have twelve and a half pounds of various potatoes to plant still too. They need to be Chitted, or green sprouted before planting.

How does our Food Forest Grow?

2012-04-18T12:09:00.001-07:00

Although this portion of the property is a food forest with all 7 layers, I am working to improve upon it as I learn from my Permaculture Designers Course. Today it was rather nice out and I decided to make a quick little video of what we have going on in a small space.

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I did not list everything we have growing, but there is more. The chickens free range through here every day weather permitting until a new tractor is built. Have a great day!

Synergistic Straw Bale Gardening

2012-04-14T14:10:00.000-07:00

Well, I finally broadcast planted my 1st polyculture of the season yesterday. In my kitchen garden beds, near the house, literally on top of straw bales that have been in the rain for 2 weeks I broadcasted a lot of varieties of seeds.

Let me back track a moment. To fully explain what I mean by straw bale gardening please review this YouTube video.

However, for an Organic application, I used Happy Frog soil, and worm compost tea. After grasses started popping up 2 weeks later I knew it was ready to start planting. However, I found transplants to be utterly annoying to do.

So, I remembered this video from Emilia Hazelip & Synergistic Gardening. I had moderate success with it last year, so this year I am trying the same, but on the straw bales. If you are not familiar with E. Hazelip please watch this 30 minute video on a kitchen garden that has nearly 0 input other then vegetable transplants when you pick something else. It is true to chop & drop as well.

Since I am doing this method to build soil over time in an area that is hard impacted, and rocky this method seems like the logical choice. Which leads me to what I planted in bed one, well, it contains Parsnips, Radish, Dragon Carrot, Daikon, Turnip, Beets, Calendula, Nasturtium, Kale, Forellenschluss, Romaine Lettuce, White Bunching Onion, Giant Musselburgh Leeks, Chives, Borage, Italian Parsley, Garnet Oakleaf Lettuce, Lisbon Bunching Onion, Corn Salad, & a red heirloom cipollini onion.

The beuaty of this method is that I slowly get to pick items for salad as everything comes in, and then it gets sweet peas, spinach, mustard greens or beans as something gets picked. Makes for a great way to get healthy food quickly and cheaply with a large variety. Come fall the Spinach, beans, peas, and mustard are already being picked if all goes well.

Sunset? Where did it go?

2012-04-10T21:04:00.003-07:00

I am not sure how it happened. In a way you could call it missing time. A little while ago I was at my computer having a nice time playing a game, but then I glanced out the window. I saw a beautiful sunset occurring so I went outside and started working on my upper deck by the arbor and suddenly started reorganizing my nursery area, cleaning, etc. etc. etc. while also setting up for Aquaponics using some "feeder" goldfish I rescued a year ago.

Next thing I know it's right now, and very very dark. What happened to that sunset I went out to enjoy?

2012-04-08T19:46:00.001-07:00

My guests left today,
but new trails have opened for us all.


Guests re-hike the trails we cut over the week.

They left me inspired,
like the start of a journey.

I now have places I wish to add Adirondack chairs to rest while out here. There is so much of the cliff side still left unexplored, I cherish the future.

Property Improvement

2012-04-07T19:37:00.001-07:00

Spent the last 2 days hiking through our property and attempting to bush whack a trail which sadly is incomplete & I will finish when my friends leave here tomorrow. On the flip side I finally have a trail into the property from my perimeter Quad trail. I can finally walk from one side, to almost the other.

My goal is to have a looping nature trail of food and happiness to walk my dog daily. In addition I have found many new places with nice views of the wilderness and Coquille River Valley. I need some Adirondack chairs down there someday. All in all we had a ton of fun and learned a lot from one another.

2012-04-07T11:11:00.000-07:00

Very busy around here with spring and all. Planting, weeding, and so forth. However, here is something to tide you over while I work.

Grafting Research

2012-03-29T21:43:00.002-07:00

While I was watching videos to better learn grafting, I found this one video that out shined many others. It is making me think of risking a scion or 2 and cutting them in half for another branch! Take a look at how simple this is.

The Scions have arrived!

2012-03-29T16:25:00.000-07:00

The scions have arrived! Woohoo! No not those awful toaster things with wheels, I got scion wood of 3 different varieties of apple trees which include "Wealthy," "Winekist," and the desert apple "Milo Gibson"

Desert apples have been known to command insane prices such as the ones grown by Akinori Kimura, an apple farmer in Japan that used to get over $15US per apple for deserts that the rich and fast paced chefs of Tokyo would create masterpieces of Epicurean delights that would make Anthony Bourdain weep along side Iron Chef Morimoto.

If you don't know the story of Akinori Kimura, I suggest reading this:

http://imaginepeace.com/miracleapples/

Weird Morning

2012-03-29T10:08:00.001-07:00

Odd day here. Trees INC came to the property in the wee hours of the morning, skulking in a truck, on my private driveway. I got out of bed, walked outside and asked, "What's up."

The gentlemen explains how Trees INC are here to help with the fallen trees & widow makers hanging from the road. I let them know they can also drop tree chips here ever more & they get me on the list.

Mind you, I am in fleece pj bottoms, a t shirt, slippers, and its raining. We also walk down the road, I point out numerous widow makers, and other problems. They agree to take care of them all! Wondrous days, my work load just dropped, and I get free wood chips delivered for now on! Everything seems A-OK. Maybe this is all a dream?

I go inside, and start helping the Mrs. get up when suddenly I hear a knock at the door. I go back and it's the same guy from Trees INC, and he says, "
Yeah, uhm, sorry to bother you again, but I didn't realize these were "Coos-Curry Electric lines, we won't be doing any tree pruning, sorry. I am contracted through PG&E, but don't worry, you will still get wood chips delivered."

I need coffee, this is starting to be a rather odd day.

Can't garden on clay & rock?

2012-03-26T15:03:00.002-07:00

To heck I say! Want to grow organic on a concrete patio? Here is how!

Due to problems that arose from the latest snow storm we lost our chicken tractor, have no fear for we did not lose the chickens! Nacho, Lady Gaga and the rest are just fine & free ranging.

However, we moved kitchen garden production to closer to the house, and here is how.

A 30 Year Old Food Forest

2012-03-24T11:29:00.002-07:00

A food forest is one component of permaculture on a given piece of land. Each one is designed to take into account the sun, wind direction, rainfall, and much more. This is an example of a 30 year old food forest.

Free Range-ing Chickens

2012-03-23T18:40:00.001-07:00

I let them out for a little while today, enjoy the little movie.

The Flooding Continues

2012-03-23T11:09:00.002-07:00

Flood Warning

*NOAA Issue Date:3/23/2012 06:18:00 AM ...the flood warning continues for the following rivers in Oregon... Coquille River at Coquille affecting Coos County... The flood warning continues for the Coquille River at Coquille. * at 5:30 Am Friday the stage was 24.1 feet. * flood stage is 21.0 feet. * moderate flooding is occurring and moderate flooding is forecast. * impact...at 25.0 feet...some homes are flooded along and near the Coquille River. Roads are flooded in spots in low-lying areas near the Coquille River. * flood history...this crest compares to a previous crest of 24.2 feet on jan 20 2012. Precautionary/preparedness actions... Never drive through flooded areas. The water may be too deep to allow for safe passage or there may be unseen damage to the roadway. For the latest river stages and forecasts...visit our web page at www.weather.gov/medford or listen to Noaa weather radio.

Night Time over the Flooded Coquille Valley

2012-03-22T20:54:00.000-07:00

As sunset came across the valley, the animals could be heard no more from below only the crackling thunderous sound of the odd tree being ripped downstream. Starlings rejoiced at the over abundance of food in the air, but now when there is no sunlight and the starlings have gone to roost all there is below in the darkness is the sound of deafening rushing water.

It is so peaceful.

Flooding Images of Coquille River Valley

2012-03-22T09:35:00.004-07:00

The sun came up and I was just out hiking along 42S taking photos of the carnage let loose by Nature. There is an eerie stillness out there when there are no cars. The birds are at high elevations for the most part except for waterfowl which are hiding amongst the branches and limbs along the shores.

Every once in a while you can hear resoundingly loud snaps of trees breaking and crashing from erosion into the Coquille River, it is disconcerting.

So much for this pasture at the moment.
Corner of Fat Elk Road and 42 S

Bridge between Coquille & Fat Elk Road Junction on 42S

Sometimes at least it makes for a good view, but I am still reminded of what Mr. Masanobu Fukuoka said, "Throw mother nature out the window and she comes in through the front door with a pitchfork."