My Perfect 1996 BMW Z3

1996 BMW Z3 Throttle Cable Issue - PART 3

2012-04-03T10:54:00.000-07:00

Rubber Grommet

I found the primary culprit when searching for "BMW Z3 Throttle Cable" it is called a "Rubber Grommet for Accelerator Pedal Linkage"(14) it costs $2.00 from this website. Also there is a Clip(11) that looks like it secures the grommet and the linkage to the gas Pedal as you can see in this diagram. However I cannot find the clip in a store online to replace it I will check with the Dealer to see if it is covered under the previous recall or if they can order the clip for me.

Gas Pedal Linkage Diagram

See Part 1 and Part 2 of this Blog Post

1996 BMW Z3 Throttle Cable Issue - PART 2

2012-04-03T10:51:00.002-07:00

While Researching it I found this Recall on this website. I am not sure if it is related however I plan to contact my BMW Dealer to see if this recall was completed on my car.

1996 BMW Z3 Recalls

Safety is an important consideration when buying a car. AutoBuyGuide.com is dedicated to providing you with all of the safety and 1996 BMW Z3 recall information you need to keep your family safe. Search our catalog of official 1996 BMW Z3 recalls to view all car defects and reports for all submodels. Is your car safe? Check the current 1996 BMW Z3 recalls listed at AutoBuyGuide.com for your vehicle to find out.

1996 BMW Z3 Recall ID from NHTSA: 97V131000

Auto Recall Date: 08/19/1997
Vehicle Component: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL
Estimated Vehicles Affected: 410000
1996 BMW Z3 Defect Summary:
THE CRUISE CONTROL AND THROTTLE CABLES ARE ATTACHED TO THE SAME THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATING LEVER AT THE THROTTLE HOUSING. IT IS POSSIBLE THAT THE PLASTIC BUSHING ON EITHER CABLE COULD BREAK DUE TO ENVIRONMENTAL INFLUENCES COUPLED WITH VIBRATION. IF THE BUSHING BREAKS, THE OUTER CABLE HOUSING CAN SEPARATE FROM THE BUSHING. IN THIS CASE, DURING APPLICATION OF THE THROTTLE PEDAL WITHOUT CRUISE CONTROL BEING ENGAGED, THE OUTER TUBE COULD CATCH ON THE EDGE OF THE BROKEN BUSHING.
Defect Consequence:
THIS COULD CAUSE THE THROTTLE VALVE TO REMAIN PARTIALLY OPEN. IT HIS WERE TO OCCUR, THE CAR MIGHT NOT DECELERATE AS EXPECTED INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSTALL A SPRING STEEL CLIP ON THE OUTER TUBE OF EACH CABLE IN THE AREA OF THE ADJUSTING SCREW AND PLASTIC BUSHING. THE CLIP IS DESIGNED TO PREVENT THE OUTER TUBE FROM DISLODGING FROM THE BUSHING.
Notes: BAYERISCHE MOTOREN WERKE,

To see the diagnosis of my car see this post 1996 BMW Z3 Throttle Cable Issue - PART 1

1996 BMW Z3 Throttle Cable Issue - PART 1

2012-04-03T10:25:00.002-07:00

So I drive my car to work, no problems. Shut the car off, work till lunch then I go back out start the car for lunch and have no gas pedal, just a free swinging foot pedal. First thing I do is pop the hood take a look at the throttle housing and cables. I trace them from the throttle body to the firewall and see that all look fine under the hood so I look in the drivers side under the dash and find the black panel covering the area I need to see. I remove two "flathead" plastic screws and remove the panel then I see the gas pedal and it flops back and forth. I look farther up where the Throttle cable connects and sure enough the cable is there and the pedal is disconnected. I try to connect it and there seems to be a missing bushing or something that used to hold the cable in place is missing. I need to get it home so I have to rig it up to work till I can fix it properly without towing it. I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS EXCEPT IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION, EVEN THEN I'M NOT RECOMMENDING IT IF YOU DO IT IT'S ON YOU!
I took a small paper clip slid it over the end and through the Gas Pedal connection then I secured it with a rubber band to keep it from falling out. I then Started the car and made sure that giving it gas would accelerate and decelerate with no issue. The deceleration obviously is the most important part here.

However after rigging it up to get it home I will now have to find how to secure it in a more permanent and safe manner.

See Part 2 and Part 3 of this Blog Post.

1996 BMW Stereo CODE WAIT

2012-02-28T09:43:00.002-08:00

1996 BMW Z3 "CODE WAIT" Radio Locked

1996 BMW Z3 Stereo went into "CODE WAIT". Well actually I put it in Code Wait. SO I replaced my O2 Sensor as indicated in my posts Part 1 and Part 2. After I replaced the Sensor I removed the negative battery terminal connector for 30 minutes to reset the light (If the check engine light stays on try disconnecting the battery to reset the car's computer). Which when I reconnected it I had to set my clock which was easy BUT when I turned on the Stereo, on the display it showed CODE _ _ _ _ _ and by entering numbers from the preset buttons it either worked or didn't. I FORTUNATELY have the CODE however for purposes of writing this blog I purposely entered the incorrect code into my BMW Z Radio and it went into "CODE WAIT". So if you do this here is what you have to do to fix it. First you have to do one of two things.

1. Disconnect the Battery to reset the computer again.

2. Leave the car in the "ON" position for 90 Minutes and the radio will reset and "CODE" will appear.

you can now enter your code.....If you have it. Typically it is given to the owner and may be with a seperate Radio "Security" packet. and will have two small credit card, cards that have the "CODE" on them. IF by some chance you do not have the code you can get it by finding the serial number of the radio and taking it to your dealer. Here is the way to get the Serial Number.

1. If the radio is in the "CODE" mode awaiting you to enter a 5 digit code you can hold in your "M" button and it will display the S/N of the radio.

2. Remove the radio and look at the back.

No take the Serial Number to your BMW Dealer with your proof of ownership (Registration, bill of sale, etc...) they will look up your Code for you.
There is one problem here. There are two manufacturers of radios in most BMW cars, Alpine and Blaupunkt
If you get the code from the dealer it may be wrong because you go the one for the opposite radio manufacturer. If they give you the wrong code try it in the radio and if it doesn't work reset the radio again and go back into the dealer and tell them the situation ALSO when they say "Sorry we can't help you then" or "well then it must not be the original radio that came with the car" Tell them "You know that there two manufacturers of the radios and that there is a chance that there is another code and they gave you the wrong one". If they don't give you a second number tell them also to call BMWNA who are the people that provide assistance to the BMW Dealers when they get stumped. Once you have the right code and you input it into the radio it takes about 5 seconds for the code to unlock the radio and you will have music again.

Removing a Seized or Stuck BMW Z3 O2 Sensor

2012-02-28T09:11:00.000-08:00

Car on the lift

2. Rounded bolt head on O2 Sensor

SO I had to replace my O2 Sensor on my 1996 BMW Z3. See my post on replacing a BMW O2 Sensor. I already had my car jacked up and I tried a 7/8 wrench which started the rounding of the bolt head then I tried to rent the "O2 Sensor Socket Tool" from Autozone and it further rounded the head. (costs $25 to rent the tool and you get your money back).

A Pipe wrench may end up as your last resort

However I rounded it enough that I needed to take it to a shop and have them lift it and get the O2 Sensor out. They ended up using a Pipe Wrench which if I had one may have worked if I could have gotten enough torque on it. It cost $47 but it was worth the time and effort and they put the new one in for free.

Location of the OBD Plug on a 1996 BMW Z3

2012-02-23T10:59:00.003-08:00

Passenger Side OBD Plug

So where is the OBD Plug on a 1996 BMW Z3. At first I thought it was under the hood which is true if you are an authorized BMW dealer and you use the plug in your BMW Shop. The plug then is located under the hood as shown in the picture below. BUT if you are a DIYer you need the plug for the OBD II connection and it is located on the passenger side on the kick panel on the left side.

OBD Plug 1996 BMW Z3

If you see in the picture below it shows that the plug has a cover on it that says "OBD" once you remove the cover you see the OBD Plug and the plug has a cover on it as well which is easily removed to expose the plug and allow you to read the codes from your car. See this resource online for OBD codes. Also this is the location for the OBD Plug on a 1996 BMW Z3. Yours may be in a different location HOWEVER I read that it should be never more that 2 ft from the drivers seat.

Check Engine Light on a 1996 BMW Z3 - PART 2 - O2 Sensor replacement (P1186)

2012-02-21T07:29:00.001-08:00

O2 Sensor is on the passenger side.

Car jacked up - O2 Sensor is on the left side underneath

Close up of O2 Sensor in the exhaust

I went to Autozone and had them read the code on my 1996 BMW Z3. See my post on the location of the OBD connection on a BMW Z3.The code showed a P1186, I researched the code and found it is an "O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit" (Bank 1 Sensor 2). So I searched some more and found that I need to replace my O2 Sensor on my BMW Z3. Where is the O2 Sensor on a 1996 BMW Z3. On the 1996 BMW Z3 the O2 Sensor is located on the right (passenger) side of the car underneath and towards the front on the side of the exhaust pipe near the front Exhaust manifold and in front of the Catalytic converter. It is actually in a good location on the side and not on the top so you can get a wrench on the (22mm) head. I recommend a 22mm wrench as opposed to a 7/8in wrench due to the more exact fit. the 7/8 has enough play in it and the sensor is so tightly installed that you may strip out the edges of the sensor nut head. (which I did). See my post on removing a seized or locked O2 Sensor from a BMW Z3.

Side view of O2 Sensor

First thing your need to do is jack up the car. getting under it can be tight I recommend ramps or at least getting it up off the ground to get jack stands under it, i used two by fours to get it up enough to get my floor jack under it. Once up you can see the O2 Sensor from the Drivers side by looking under it and seeing exactly where it is located. You can see it clearly in the picture on the right showing where the sensor is located.

1). Exhaust Manifold to exhaust pipe. 2). O2 Sensor. 3). Catalytic Converter

Once the car is up you can easily see the (2) O2 Sensor in the side of the exhaust pipe. Notice how the sensor cable is connected at the top. It is easily remove by just gently pulling it out of it's socket. You can use a flat screw drive to reach up and get to it and gently slide the connection out if needed.

1. Electrical Connection on O2 Sensor

Take note of the new O2 Sensor, and the connection. The new O2 Sensor will have anti-seize grease on it and if not use some prior to putting it in.

New 1996 O2 Sensor

Screw the new sensor into the opening being careful to not touch the ceramic end of the sensor and not getting anti-seize compound on the end of the sensor. Tighten the sensor to 40ft pounds of torque. Once completed lower the car and take it for a test drive and then recheck under the car for any leaks (should be NONE) or anything else under the car that may be out of place. If the check engine light does not go off. remove your negative battery connection for 30 minutes to reset the computer then drive it and watch to ensure the check engine light does not come back on. If it does go back and have the codes read again and see if now something else is an issue and may be the root cause of the sensor going bad.

Check Engine Light on a 1996 BMW Z3 - PART 1 - Diagnosis

2012-02-14T05:11:00.000-08:00

My Check Engine light just came on on my 1996 BMW Z3. NOW WHAT. So I first need to find out what is going on. so I do a search on "check engine light on a 1996 BMW". One of the first results I looked at said the guy bought a Peake R5/FCX-3 and scanned the engine and found 07,6C,1B,0A codes. 6B is "battery disconnected" and 0A is "PreCAT O2 sensor". I haven't run a code check on mine but I am not sure I want to buy the $149.99 tool to do the check, it is affordable but I think I can do it by going to Advanced Auto or AutoZone and having them run the check. The article I am referencing is here and I think it may be what I need to find what is wrong. The next search was "1996 BMW Z3 Check Engine Light" and the results gave me this link. This search came up with one good hit and it was about codes P1174 and P1175. The link to what should be or could be wrong is here. Most information all said go to Advanced Auto and have the codes read. SO that is what I will do and I will post an update when I get them.

Tinny engine noise upon heavy acceleration

2012-02-07T04:48:00.000-08:00

My 1996 BMW Z3 has a distinct "tinny" sound that comes from the exhaust when you hit the accelerator and really want to move. I found out that this is a normal situation and it is caused by the exhaust itself and perhaps either some of the internal components vibrate together OR the mounting of the exhaust causes it. IN any case it is completely normal and I think it is part of the character of the car. Many people have these cars and I'm sure they've noticed that small tinny sound coming from the rear as they step on the gas. BUT What about those who pay the $100,00 price tag for the new 2012 BMW M5, it comes with a Stereo enhanced sound of the rumble of the engine through the speakers. If that isn't a kick in the pants I don't know what is. If the Engine truly doesn't make enough sound to be heard inside do I really want my stereo making up for it? Anyway here is what BMW has to say about it.
--------------------------------BMW comments about the 2012 BMW M5-------------------------------
"M5 drivers will be given an even more direct reminder of their car’s performance capability by technology that brings the distinctive sound of the high-performance V8 – in all its glory – into the cabin of the new BMW M5. The Active Sound Design technology specially developed for the new BMW M5 takes its cues from the driving situation at any one time to deliver an accurate reproduction of the engine’s sound through the car’s audio system. The system’s digital signal processing exchanges data directly with the engine management, allowing it to reflect the engine’s revs and torque, and the car’s speed over the road. The result over a smoothly driven journey is a discreet soundtrack in keeping with the harmonious and assured characteristics of the V8 powerplant. A stamp on the accelerator, meanwhile, prompts an immediate audible response to match the instantaneous – and typically M – burst of power from beneath the bonnet."
When that car is 17 years old like mine will the stereo be able to keep up with it? I'll keep my original engine noise and I'll put my top down if I want it louder.

Programming your 1996 BMW Z3 KEY

2012-02-01T08:06:00.000-08:00

Really the simplicity in the key is that is is not chipped, it only has three buttons and it only does three things. First the three buttons are the LIGHT, which is the center with the BMW Logo. The small gray button which unlocks and the large gray button which locks. The three things it does it lock the car, unlock the car, and start the engine. The programming functions are to turn on the security alarm notification beep OR shut off the notification beep. When the beep is on the car chirps ONCE to let you know it is locked and TWICE to let you know it is unlocked. If you try to unlock it when it is already unlocked it will chirp three time.

To program the 1996 BMW Z3 KEY to turn ON the chirp, hold the small gray button and the large gray button in at the same time. ONCE you hear a chirp it is programmed to make the beep or chirp when the security system is armed. IF you want to shut off the beep notification, hold the small and large gray button in until you hear NO BEEP after a few second of holding the buttons in. THEN try it out. Lock the car if the chirp is not heard the notification is off. If you hear the chirp and want the notification OFF repeat the steps to turn the alarm notification off until it is OFF.

New Convertible Top for 1996 BMW Z3

2012-01-10T09:36:00.000-08:00

I was doing some research about new tops for a 1996 BMW Z3. mine is in perfect condition and I hope it stays that way BUT if it doesn't I found a company that I think may help me replace mine at a very decent price. They can do just about any color that was stock and they have a very high quality and rated web site. Autotopsdirect.com offers highend BMW Convertible tops as well as many other makes and models.

PART 3, BMW Z3 Won't Shift Into Gear

2011-11-28T08:18:00.000-08:00

Now I have Identified the issue a Bad Seal on the Slave Cylinder, I purchased the part for $62. I jacked the car up, and now I'm ready to change out the part.

First I need to BENCH BLEED the new part. SO I take the new part out and pour fluid into the fluid line connection point and work the plunger to create suction that pulls fluid into the part. I do this until no more air comes out. You'll still have a little air BUT it can be bled once the part is install. Next I need to remove the old part.

1. Two bolts to transmission. 2. Flange fluid line connector. 3. Bleeder screw

Unbolt the two bolts (#1) that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission housing. Once it is disconnected the part will slide our and the plunger will be sticking out, you can see how the plunger goes into the part and how it rests on the inside of the transmission to acuate the clutch. Pay attention to this step so you can reassemble later. Next with the part disconnected it will hang down connected to the fluid line. This makes it easy to disconnect and reconnect the new part because the fluid connection is upright and fluid will not pour our of the new part when reconnecting the line. NOW with the new part close by and the main BRAKE FLUID RESEVOIR TOPPED OFF disconnect the fluid line flange nut, use the correct size nut so you do not strip this fitting, then reconnect the fluid line to the NEW part. Once tightened, you can insert the plunger into the opening on the transmission housing and push it in to reattached the two nuts onto the bolts that are cast into the housing. There may be some preassure since the part has fluid in it and needs to be bled BUT pushing it in far enough to get the nuts started shouldn't be difficult. Once the nuts are started tighten them down and then you can begin the bleeding process.
Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes you need to be able to pump the clutch up to some pressure and then while the pedal is depressed. open the bleeder screw to let out the air in the system. You will repeat the process a quite a few times to get almost all of the air out. (most systems will also remove air over time so the more you get out now the sooner your clutch will really tighten up.) I know what your thinking I have to pump up the clutch, I get pressure then I have to keep it depressed and crawl back under the car to open the bleeder screw. Well you need to rig up something to keep the pedal pressed in OR you need two people. I tried a bleeding kit but didn't have any luck (maybe because I wasn't too familiar with how to use it) regardless it is easy to do once you figure out how to keep the pedal depressed. One thing to remember is that when you keep the pedal depressed with pressure on the system, once you open the bleeder screw fluid will shoot out. When there is AIR in the system it will be a pulsating flow of fluid. Make sure you keep the resevoir FULL and bleed the brakes till you have minimal pulsating fluid when the bleeder screw is opened. This may be a good time to drain the system which can be done just like this while opening the bleeder screw and draining the fluid without and refilling the resevoir until all new fluid is in the system.

PART 2, BMW Z3 Won't Shift Into Gear

2011-11-28T08:17:00.002-08:00

So I reserached the clutch problem and found that it is probably a few different things. 1. Master Cylinder is leaking and needs replaced. 2. Fluid lines are leaking and need replaced. 3. Slave Cylinder is leaking and needs replaced. All three of these should be easy to do UNLESS it is just one of the things wrong. First thing to do is narrow down the leak. SO I needed to look under the car. If your like me you don't have a lift in your garage SO I needed to get my floor jack under the car and since it is so low I had to improvise. I had to drive the FRONT wheels onto two-by-fours to get it up that extra inch. Once jacked up I was able to look under it and see if I could find the leak. Immediately I could see the dripping onto the crossmember.

1. Main Drip Point. 2. Crossmember

SO I wiped it down, refilled the fluid and drove it again to really pin point WHERE it was coming from and I found that is was coming from the Bellhousing where the transmission bolts up to the engine.

As you can see from the WHITE Arrow this is where the leak originates and then goes to the Main Drip Point #1 then onto the cross member in the right side of the picture. SO with this info I immediately thought I would check the Slave Cylinder which is the small actuating cylinder bolted onto the transmission itself. The Master cylinder pushes fluid to the brakes and down to the Slave Cylinder to presurize the clutch.

1. Bolt to the transmission housing. 2. Fluid Line. 3. Bleeder screw.

So NONE fo the connections were leaking everything on the slave cylinder was dry. SO this to me meant a bad thing, since the fluid was coming out of the bell housing and not around the slave cylinder I immediately thought the worst. I thought that something internal to the clutch or transmission was bad and then leaking out the bell housing. BUT a call to preferred auto guys told me differently. They said NO it is still the slave cylinder BECAUSE the seal on the inside where the plunger is, is broken and leaking in the inside and then going down and the only place to come out is the bell housing. SO this was actually good news. I won't quote their price here because ALTHOUGH very fair and reasonable It may change over time and I'm sure this post will be out in cyberspace for awhile. However I will tell you as of this date of this post the new part at Advanced Auto (which was in stock) was $62.19 with Tax. Look for POST 3 for the Removal and Install of the Slave Cylinder.

PART 1, BMW Z3 Won't Shift Into Gear

2011-11-28T08:17:00.001-08:00

Well, the first issue I had was an easy one, ALSO it is one that could have been expected since the car is 15 years old. Old dry seals and gaskets are something to CHECK and be wary of because of AGE and sitting for a while. Here is what happened with me. Driving on a Saturday I noticed sitting at a Light that the CAR was hard to go into First Gear. I pumped the clutch a few times and it went in. Sunday I didn't drive the car. Monday I drove it to work and went to lunch I again experienced the same thing this time downshifting the car was HARD to go into First Gear. Later that after noon drove it homw didn't think much of it and attributed it to not pushing the clutch in all the way. parked the car int he garage and had no noticable spots on the floor. My wife drove it the next day and when she pulled into the parking lot she could'nt get the car into gear at all She had someone push her into a parking spot and called me. SO I immediately started looking online for "BMW Won't go into gear". What I found was a bunch of responses and some forum entries at Bimmerfest Forums these at least got me thinking and I finally called a local place in Tampa that was very helpful. Preferred Auto The guys that I talked to were more than helpful they KNEW the car KNEW exactly what I was talking about and gave me information that helped me fix this problem myself. I told them the symptoms: 1. Car wouldn't go into gear. 2. Clutch was flopping around under the dash NO Firmness at all. 3. Large puddle of fluid under the car where my wife parked. SO with all of these symptoms, I deduced that the seal finally blew out SOMEWHERE in the Clutch line and all the fluid leaked out leaving the clutch unable to disengage and shift into gear.
The guys at Preferred Auto told me that the Brake Fluid resevoir that is on top of the master cylinder is a two chamber resevoir, it contains the brake fluid and in another connected chamber the clutch fluid since the clutch is hydraulic. If I looked at the resvoir I would see that the fluid is empty. I looked at the resvoir and sure enough it was empty. SO I topped it off with regular DOT4 Brake Fluid and then pumped on the clutch, this was challenging because it was leakign out very good now. BUT I was able to get the clutch to disengage and shift into first. I drove it home and put it in the garage. I went back to work and decided to look into it a little more. NEXT POST is the troubleshooting to fix Post.

The Paint Chip worked "OK"

2011-11-28T08:17:00.000-08:00

OK so it isn't the best solution, which I believe would be painting the area again and somehow buffing and blending it all together BUT it works pretty well and when looking at the spots that are done you have to catch the area in the right light to see it. the pics below are of the ones that I've completed and they look pretty good. The one thing I have noticed is that if you remove too much paint it stays down in the chip but still leaves a little noticeble divot...not sure if thats right but it still looks a little indented. The good thing is the chips previously where WHITE since it went into the primer NOW they are colored and look good. One other thing to consider is that the paint I have is the British Racing Green which is metallic and if dabbed on and left it dries nice and metallicky However if you buff off the blob like the kit I have says to do it dulls down to a dark green color. The kit cost about $39

Langka Paint Chip kit on Left

the Paint from BMW cost $29

BMW PAINT KIT on RIGHT two vials

and it came in two parts one was the paint the other was the clear coat. The paint is a perfect match BUT the clear coat is truly crappy. It is very very soft and when you put it on it remains soft even after sitting for days. SO I have not been using it and just thepaint kit has made the paint look good. A good shining and buffing afterwards really blends it all nicely.

Paint, Chips and Dip

2011-11-06T07:55:00.001-08:00

Next on the list is fixing all the little paint chips and a few scratches around the car. First thing is finding something that I can do that will really work, so I started researching things to find the best item and I think I found one of the best there is. LANGKA Complete Paint Chip Repair Kit. This is the thing that many car dealers say they use and many more people have written reviews about. I'm not talking about fixing "Damage" I'm talking small chips that on the nose look like salt specks. SMALL blemishes that can be dabbed with paint and then buffed to look great. SO I ordered some online from the Langka website and it comes with all the things you need EXCEPT the factory paint for $39.99 + shipping my total was $47.68.
The Web site says if you can catch your fingernail in the chip of scratch this is the repair you need.

NOW its off to BMW to find the factory Paint. I found the Paint on the Front Driver side Strut housing. The official color is BostongrÜn Metallic, Color Code 275 which I found off the Automotive Touch Up paint web site I then called my local BMW Parts and had them Order it, which comes in a kit and costs $29.95 and has the paint and a Clear Coat included. It should be here in about 3 days.

The Ding Man Cometh

2011-11-04T04:41:00.000-07:00

So when I bought the car I made note of the 5 or so dings that were on the car. Then there are the small scratches. NONE of these hinder the car in any manner HOWEVER I figured if I can get a Good Deal on repairing them I will get it done, which just adds to it's current PERFECT State. So Today at around 10:00am the Ding Guy Dennis from Elite Dent Repair is coming. He is the first that has come and I will hope he is fair and gives me a good Rate I will update this Post with the ding pictures and his estimate after he shows up. In the mean time here are the pictures of the car when I got it.

10:54am Update: No Ding Man. I tried calling both of the guys Here in Tampa and cannot get up with Either to confirm my 10:00am appointment. I'll keep trying since I have the rest of the day BUT this is inconvenient.

11:22 Update Still No Ding Man. Well still no one so I called another Guy that I found off the Tampa Racing Forums,

1:22 Update Ryan from Elite Dent Repair here in Tampa Came out and fixed all of the Dings (7 Total) now the car has absolutely nothing wrong with it. this is a great deal and he charged me $160 total out the door. he said he should of charged more cause he had a lot of problems getting to two of them on the passenger door. BUT it all worked out and now it looks great. Elite Dent Repair Tampa

Keeping things STOCK

2011-11-03T10:48:00.000-07:00

Ok so I want to truly keep everything STOCK. So far it has everything the Welcome Cassette Tape/CD the Original Window sticker in MINT condition. All the books everything! So in order to Protect the car I am thinking that I need to do some things so that I HAVE them and they get no more wear and tear. New Wheels and Tires might be a start and for that I think I want to graduate to a tire that FITS but is a Size larger. 17" might be a nice clean looking change. Here are some of my worries and concerns. 18" with a WIDE RIM in the back 9" requires a Fender ROLL so I don't want to do that because of Clearance and keeping the car Stock. 17" should fit and ride nice and provide a clean larger look. I may go without the WIDER tire in the back and then I could go with the 18". below is a Brief Idea of OFFSET I got this Info from TIRE RACK

The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types (measured in millimeters).*
Zero Offset
The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.

Positive
The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.

Negative
The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.

If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected.
STOCK BMW Z3 WHEEL OFFSET
Stock 17"s on a non-M Z3 have an offset of 41mm on all four wheels.

I also found this on BIMMER FORUMS and it is very helpful

First Steps to adding to the PERFECT BMW Z3

2011-11-02T11:42:00.000-07:00

They are the Ultimate Driving Machines. SO I want this one to be ALL Original. Here is the first thing I will do. Replace the Small BMW Emblem on the Key Fob. I know WOW, that's one way to start and to start SMALL...

The little BMW Roundel that is on ALL BMW Keys was very worn and not even visible. SO I needed a New One and found them on EBAY. $3.50 Plus $1.50 shipping. Total of $5 and I bought it from someone in America rather than have it shipped in from CHINA.

Now I just need to wait for it to come in and replace it. I will update this post with the pic of the KEY after it is complete.

How it all Started

2011-11-02T11:32:00.000-07:00

Used 1996 BMW Z3 1.9
$9,500

Ok so the title of the AD wasn't that attractive. It was a little over my price range and then I read the words in the ad.

that's when I saw the Mileage....What 37,325?? this can't be right. The the next part I saw was '1-Owner car'. Oh well now this is even better. A Car that is 1 Owner, Low miles and obviously if he has the Car Fax he can back up his story. I called him and talked with him turns out he was in the Air Force and is now living in Florida, he no doesn't drive the car much and it sits in the Garage. SO it just needs to be driven. We make a deal to discuss it more and me and my Step Father will go down and look at it on Tuesday if we think it is worth it.

I ask if $9500 is his bottom price and he tells me to come up with a number and propose it prior to coming down just to make sure I might be in the ball park before driving so far. (3 and a half hours, one way)
So we decide to do a little research, look at Kelly Blue Book, put in the mileage and then try to determine what it matches, Excellent 3% of cars are in this shape ($7825), Very Good 25% of cars are in this Shape ($7565), Good 75% of cars are in this shape ($7230) Poor (well I don't want a car in this shape). So I decide on $7800 I think if it is as described and has minor aging wear then with it's low mileage and garage kept story it should be one of the top 3% of vehicles out there, MAYBE Higher.

Now I decided to call back and ask him what he would consider and what we had decided. Since the car was in good shape, and if it matched what he had said and the Car Fax came back clean I was willing to go top dollar on the Kelly Blue Book Value and offer $7800. At this point I am not sure what he was thinking However he said "That is a little lower than I want but I will have to talk to my wife about it and get back to you." Well it was Halloween Night, It was also 5:30pm when I talked to him. We were getting ready for the Trick or Treaters and we were sitting outside BUT in the back of my mind I was waiting for the phone call and him to say WELL I will take $8500 or something like that. However the phone call never came. I waited and waited and finally it was 7:20pm. I was getting worried and Scared that I had insulted him and he wasn't going to call back.

You see I really wanted this car at this point I felt it was a too good to be true car and i had hoped that he would call back. But I now thought that I had insulted him, that I had bid too low and that I had made this BMW turn its back on me and drive away.

So I decided to call back at 7:30pm, I talked to him and he said. Oh sorry I hadn't called you back with it being Halloween and all BUT I talked with my wife and $7800 would be the LOWEST that I will go. So If you come down here and see it and it isn't to your liking I can't go any lower then that.
Well, that Tuesday we went down there, We met him at his work and test drove the car. he went over every inch of the car with us. told us all the quirks, showed us little cracks in the back plastic support that you will never see, showed us how the top goes up and down. He then opened the Hood and showed us the engine, he hadn't cleaned it, and told us I wanted you to see this as it has been sitting here JUST to make sure you see any sign of leaks and didn't think I was hiding anything. WELL there was nothing. The engine had road grime on it BUT not bad. Not 15 years worth and maybe 37k mile worth BUT that's nothing.

SO we got the cash out, made the Transaction and Drove it Back to Tampa the 3 and a half hours and sat it in the Driveway. My Thought was WOW what a BUY this car is in fantastic shape and I really feel good about it. Now as I go through the car and fix the VERY Minor things I will document them and show you what I have done. This car has everything included, the original window Sticker, the BMW Welcome Cassette Tape and Demonstration CD. the original Airbag Stickers, ALL manuals, original Maintenance books and tools. EVERYTHING this Car Came with is with the car and in good shape. I will be touching up the few minor things that will make this car EXACTLY as it was when it came off the showroom floor.