My Road to Becoming a Fashion Designer

Finished Reading My Copy Of Pattern Cutting For Lingerie, Beachwear And Leisurewear

2013-04-17T10:27:00.001-07:00

This book was a great read and although it's true that it's best you have a working knowledge of pattern making already to really get the most use out of this book, it's a terrific reference to have on hand as a designer/patternmaker when ever you're working on a tight fitting, or delicately designed cut of a garment that requires different seaming and finishing (evening wear, special occasion and bridal wear) and not just the types of garments indicated in the book's title.

Some important points I have to make about this book and I'm talking from experience because I've worked on some of the basic lingerie blocks in this book (and these aren't the same as the ones I did from Connie Amaden Crawford's book "Patternmaking Made Easy") as well as having constructed the blocks for both a bra and a corset, and here's what I found during my read of this book:

- it has some great tips on which exact lingerie pattern blocks can be used for other types of garments. In addition to this Ann Hagar also gives detailed instructions on how to develop a complete set of stretch knit blocks from the non-stretch blocks.

- it contains a very detailed set of measurements from sizes 8 to 18, and although it doesn't have size 6 it's easy enough to calculate from the differences between the other sizes ( I had to do this myself for the patterns I was working on), some of these details include measurements for ankle, thigh, bust separation and other types of measurements that weren't provided in the other books I've read or websites I've visited.

- good book to keep at your side when pattern drafting as a reference manual for sizing information, fabric usage and garment/block choices regarding fit as well as important block development.

So glad I got this book, because I've got to work on quite a few knit garment patterns, I'm going to try and get that set of knit blocks made and finish drafting a complete set of lingerie blocks as well so I've got them ready when I need them... Now I've got to finish reading Kathleen Fasanella's book on Sewn Product Manufacturing. I'll write you a review of that one too once I'm done.

Have a garment design or collection you need patterns for? Find out about my discount digital pattern cutting or digitization service on my Facebook page or email me your questions and comments at stylistwithacause@gmail.com .

Two Great Fashion Industry and Pattern Making Books I'm Reading

2013-01-17T14:03:00.001-08:00

Okay, it's been a while since I last posted but I wanted to have something great to write to you all about and here it is. Just this month I've received two very important book orders (the books pictured below) and I've just got to tell you about them even before I'm finished reading them.

The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing

Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear

Because I'm trying to professionalize my pattern making as much as possible the term "production patterns" that I read a while back made me realize that I had to learn how to make patterns that were worthy of the factory floor and if I didn't seek out the specifics on making patterns for production purposes, then maybe I wouldn't be ready to work for larger, or more well known design entities. I mean, I want to know that beyond a shadow of a doubt I'm giving my current designers the very best work I can give them as well. So I got this book by Kathleen Fasenella finally, entitled "The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing" . I went straight to the pattern area of the book and learned a few important things I had not yet known and realized why I never heard back from one of my prospective clients. eeeck! This previous client required a complex pleat and tuck design for her pattern and I was completely clueless as how to notch and mark the thing for manufacturing. Now I do though...if only I had this book sooner.

The other totally awesome thing about this book so far, is from just reading the very first chapter, I've already learnt about the unexpected places a pattern maker should be looking to find work, I was like whoa, I would have never thought of those people! Also what I'm learning is about who to trust your designs with in the fashion industry and who you may not be able to trust so much. But I don't want to spoil it for you. Just the way Kathleen writes the book gives you some insight on the attitudes in the industry, also very important to get acquainted with, right down to a matter of being the difference between getting and keeping your dream job...and loosing it the same day. If you'd like to get your hands on this book just click on it's title below the images.

As for the second book, "Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear" I actually wanted to get a book on advanced grading first, but one of my clients needs me to do a dress that requires me to construct a open back, strapless evening gown that's going to require me to draft a corset like support garment so I needed this one first. Now the truth is I was a little nervous about this book because I'd read a review on someone who was disappointed in the instructions as not being clear enough or something, I've got to say, it's a good thing that I now pattern making already because if I didn't the description of how to draft a basic bodice would have probably chased me away. However, because I already learning how to draft and grade bodice patterns I was able to learn, just this morning, how to draft a bra block! This is some way in the book, page 60 where Ann Haggar starts to describe how to draft the very close fitting lingerie garments (bras and corsets and similar types). I can't wait to try that out! I'll have to post the results on my blog for sure, that will be so fun. For now though, I've got to read through to the instructions for the corsets so I can do a great job on this dress pattern coming up. If you'd like to get this book yourself just click on it's title below the images.

On top of all this, I've been putting together a foundation for a 'free' online fashion design course. This foundation is actually a book list. While an aspiring fashion designer or pattern maker will have to decide which books to buy, the 'free' part of this online fashion design course comes in with information on how to use these books to educate themselves in preparation to provide professional design or pattern making services. I'll also be putting together articles on which books are best to start with, what each covers and why certain information they contain is so crucial to the success to the budding design or pattern maker. And what a person should do to develop the necessary skills to compete in the industry. While this project is one I've been working on for a few years now, it's still going to take me at least another year or two to complete. I'll be posting links to book reviews as I read these books and articles that I write as I get a chance to write them. This project will take a while though because my clients must always come first.

If you'd like to check out my book list on Pinterest so far here's the link: http://pinterest.com/ayisha1978/my-pattern-making-fashion-design-and-illustration-/ (mind you I haven't mentioned the two books I've wrote about here yet, because I haven't finished reading them yet, all in due time though.)

If you are interested in my discount digital pattern cutting or digitization service however, or you have any questions, please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or visit my Facebook page to learn more.

Grading Shortcut For Patternmaker's Without Pattern Maker Software

2012-11-25T20:49:00.002-08:00

Wow, sorry there's often so much time between posts, it's been a struggle between projects, my kids devouring computer time and other responsibilities but, I never forget about my patternmaker blog and while I get more experience in pattern cutting and grading I'm slowly coming across different shortcuts and techniques as well.

I haven't actually gotten around to doing any grading work on my sloper library lately, but this weekend I figured out a way to grade both the front and back sloper sections simultaneously to save a bit of time. This is how I managed it:

First you've got to slice your sloper sections up in the required areas, then, because the sliced portions of the front and back sections have to spread apart the same amount of distance all you really need to do is group together the corresponding vertical and horizontal portions and move them to where they need to be. See below for an example:

Vertical Sections Selected For Spreading

Horizontal Sections Selected For Spreading

Now, when your doing any kind of patternmaking work, grading or drafting, you've got to always check things over, your measurements of everything, the 1/2" difference between the front and back sections and their armscye curve measurements, then the sleeve curve ease and the shoulder notch. All are small things, but even in computer software, if you're not using pattern maker software, you could accidentally move something or even resize something and through off all your work.

I spent the weekend tweeking my previous slopers to make sure measurements were in order, no errors or anything that could pose a problem and then got started with grading my bodice sloper and it's sleeve up to size 12. Yes, I'm still working on grading up to Butterick size 24 so I can work with some online clothing companies I want to do business with. I'm very excited getting my own patterns drafted finally. But about doing business as a designer or patternmaker, you've got to know what you're getting into and get ready for the long haul if you're not going to a complete, "you're going to learn everything" kind of fashion design course.

First of all, checking out my competition, other patternmakers don't just have portfolios and years of awesome experience with designers everyone's heard about. I've noticed patternmakers online offer a full range of services from pattern cutting, grading, sample making, marker preparation, spec sheets, the works. Basically, you want to have friends that do these things or you want to know how to do all of these things single handedly. It's tough. But, don't shy away from it if this is what you want to do, all I tell myself for example, is that it's all a matter of reading a few more books and working on these skills. That's pretty much all it takes. Never let the time something may take deter you from learning how to do something you want to do, just do it.

As both a patternmaker and hopeful designer, while doing other people's patterns and eventually drafting my own patterns so I can get boutiques to sell my designs, once the photos from their promotional campaigns start coming in, I'll have my portfolio coming together without any extra cost and what could be cooler then that? How long is this going to take?? Maybe another year or two I'm thinking, but that's fine because it'll just get me more experience under my belt and I'll develop the confidence to take my endeavors to the next step like working for a company or a couple companies as a regular staff member or service provider. :) hehehe, New York, Paris, Milan... Vancouver and Dubai here I come.

If you are interested in my discount digital pattern cutting or digitization service however, or you have any questions, please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or visit my Facebook page to learn more.

Practical Pattern Cutting Tips

2012-11-08T06:42:00.000-08:00

As I work on my pattern cutting work, (I've got a few clients at the moment after not actually having any for a while) I realize having gotten a bit rusty in a few areas has it's benefits of helping crystallize some key procedures that need to take place during the drafting of a pattern.

First, sometimes when you have a cool design to do for your designer, say you really like the style lines in the garment, you may be tempted to start drafting up the style lines on the pattern sloper before you take care of deciding the exact placement of where the silhouette and length lines should be. Don't do this, you'll make the pattern cutting a repetitive process of adjusting and re-adjusting as you re-tweek style lines to properly accommodate the designer's intended look.

Second, notches. When you've drafted the main pattern blocks for a garment, you may sometimes be tempted to start placing your notches in their corresponding places (don't put them on the center of any seam lines though, as pieces can get sewn upside down and miss-matched this way). This is not the right time to notch so don't fall for it. You've got to make sure you've decided on you facing shape lines( if you're using facings) and drafted the other attached but smaller pattern pieces first so that it's easier and quicker to place accurate notches, in all their correct places rather then having a couple notching and notch adjusting sessions.

Third, whenever possible do all similar work on your pattern as a single step in the over all process of drafting your pattern. This doesn't include measuring though (for example, when you draft a basic bodice pattern, you've got to measure the armscye to correctly check the curve on the sleeve block before preceding with anything else). However, when you've got your basic sloper set up for a design, do all the silhouette and length drafting first such as neckline depth, waistline placement, hems, sleeve lengths etc. Zipper and button plackets are next. Then place your style lines on each of the pieces. Then draft your facings, hem facings and hems lengths. In digital pattern making I create my facings by setting up a shaped line that will be used to 'cut' through a copy of the main pattern block so that the seams and shapes will be identical to the main garment block. However, I don't 'cut' the facing out till all the notching work is complete so that I can simply copy the notches as well as the facing pieces to eliminate double measuring of notch placements.

So when you're drafting up your patterns, keep these practical pattern cutting procedures in mind to speed up your work and help keep it more accurate as well. After all, accuracy is just about everything in pattern making. And as they say, time is money.

If you are interested in my discount digital pattern cutting or digitization service however, or you have any questions, please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or visit my Facebook page to learn more.

Pattern Grading Experiment For Pattern Cutting Skill Development

2012-09-24T06:52:00.000-07:00

The results for yesterday's pattern grading experiment for expanding my pattern cutting skills. The red bodice pattern and sleeve blocks are the 'Internet' grade I did. This is where a pattern is simply scaled down or up to whatever size it needs to be. For example if you need to grade a size 6 up to a size 8, you've got to increase bust, waist and hip measurements by 1" and this is what I was doing.

Because I'm working with half the front and back bodice sections, you've got to change each using a 1/4 of the over all grade, in this case I had to add on 1/4" to the front and back sections and do almost the same for the vertical measurements as well.

The green bodice pattern and sleeve blocks however, were graded according to Connie Amaden Crawford's book on grading. First you've got to section the blocks in certain horizontal and vertical areas, then you've got to figure the amounts to spread them outward or inward to enlarge them or decrease the block's size, respectively. (A little bit needs to be reserved for the hip measurement so it's left out when the bodice section is being vertically graded). A detail totally neglected in the 'Internet' method.

Click to see the actual difference between the aligned patterns.

Here, I've aligned the green version over the red version and it turns out that the red version is a bit bigger then it's supposed to be and a bit longer as well. You'll have to click on the link to really see the difference, but it's a bit too much of a difference. On a lazy day, I might grade a pattern using the 'Internet' method if I was working on a pattern I'd be sewing for myself, like to wear right... maybe. However, seeing as how Kathleen Fasanella said that when pattern cutting professionally, your patterns can't have as much as 1/32 of a error, I think I'd better stick to Connie Amaden Crawford's grading technique when I'm doing client work. No questions or doubts about that in my mind.

So now, I've got to check the armscye balance, that's the armhole measurement, adjust the curves, check and possibly adjust the sleeve cap curve and ease, place the notches in their correct places and give them their 1/2" seam allowances. Then I'll take this size 8 (Butterick standard) and grade it up to a size 10 getting ready to do some work for a client.

For all those aspiring designers and those who want to learn pattern cutting, I'll be offering these additional sizes of blocks for only $5, once I've got my pavment store set back up on my facebook page, so stay tuned, hopefully over the course of this coming month you'll see these new size 8 and size 10 bodice patterns available.

How To Make A Pattern For Fashion Design

2012-09-19T10:07:00.000-07:00

Have you designed some clothes or a collection you want to get made and can't go forward because you don't know how to make a pattern and you can't afford to hire a patternmaker? Many aspiring designers and home sewers run into a bit of problem brining their own fashion designs to life because they lack pattern cutting skills and the field of pattern cutting is rather daunting for many. However, there is a very cheap short cut you can take to easily learn how to make a pattern for your fashion designs.

In pattern cutting you always start with a basic bodice pattern or the phase 2 sloper made from it, for example the blouse sloper would be used for a blouse design and a torso block would be used for dress pattern cutting.

(click image to see a larger version)

While its ideal to learn how to draft these basic pattern slopers / blocks from scratch either from a book like Connie Amaden Crawford's Patternmaking Made Easy” or from an online video draping lesson or an actual fashion design course that teaches pattern drafting, you can purchase the basic bodice blocks from companies like Butterick or from patternmakers such as myself (click to see my basic bodice block service on Fiverr). Or, if you have an existing fitted blouse or dress pattern with a bust or shoulder dart as well as a waist dart or fisheye dart, you can tweak it to your own measurements if needed (ease elimination) and bust point location (if it's not already accurate).

(click image to see a larger version)

If you have a bodice pattern or blouse or dress pattern with a waist / fish eye and bust dart you'll need to pivot the art to the center shoulder seam to create a true basic bodice pattern block, particularly if the garment you've designed is a princess seam style.

There should be only 3/4" ease in the armscye / armhole depth and 1/2” ease at the the armscye side seam corner. Also, there should be no ease in the waist for your basic bodice sloper. The neckline should lie just above the central collar bone at the front and it should just hit the bottom of the neck at the back.

Once you've got your bodice pattern complete you're ready to start drafting the second block which usually involves adding a bit more ease (typically at the waist/hips or armholes) or pivoting the darts from the bust point into different locations (this is done by drawing and slashing a new dart placement line, then cutting out the original dart take up and closing it to allow the new dart to open so it can be filled in with paper and the new bodice or torso block can be made) or converting this dart ease to gathering or pleats. Note: This is called dart manipulation. Darts should always be pivoted from the bust point because if they aren't your resulting patterns and garments won't hang or sit correctly.

(click image to see a larger version)

If ease was eliminated from the armscye seam the sleeve pattern may also need to be adjusted if there is more than 1 1/2" ease in the sleeve cap. Leaving at least 1" ease in the sleeve cap, determine the amount of ease to be eliminated. This amount will need to be divided into three equal portions. Then half the length of one portion is how much you'll overlap the sleeve sections once you have the sleeve pattern cut out and slashed correctly.

To correctly slash the sleeve, first cut away all the sleeve seam allowances then fold the sleeve in half, matching underarm seams. Then fold again matching the centre fold line to the underarm seams. Each of these fold lines should then then be slashed to just before the wrist then overlapped by the previously determined amount.

If the sleeve pattern is for a fitted sleeve, the alterations method is simple an you most likely won't need to adjust the wrist ease or just a bit.

However, if the sleeve has excess wrist ease and the pattern you want to make is more fitted, reduce the ease by measuring your elbow circumference (if you're a size 14 or over, add 1 1/2" ease). Draw half the length of the the new elbow circumference line from the centre of the sleeve outward along the sleeve's original elbow line. Then draw a line from the the armscye / side seam point to the wrist and cut away the excess ease.

On a new sheet of paper draw a new sleeve cap line then measure it to make sure it matches the combined front an back armscye measurements plus at least 1" and no more then 1 1/2" and that the shoulder seam notch at the top of the sleeve is offset only 1/4" toward the front, past the true sleeve center. Should your sleeve have inadequate ease (less then 1") then reverse the above ease reduction process, to instead slash and spread to add ease.

Correct all your front and back matching notch positions on your sleeve and bodice pattern blocks and you're done.

Now, if you happen to have a scanner and also use a vector program like Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw, you can scan your completed bodice patterns into the computer and re-create them as vector files and then actually conduct dart manipulations in these software applications (the technique I use in my pattern cutting work).

With these basics on how to make a pattern you can easily go from there and start developing your own clothing design patterns or you can conduct further research online or at your library for additional patternmaking tips on style elements such as collars, sleeve types and more as well as other learn other pattern cutting secrets.

If you are interested in my pattern cutting or digitization service however, or you have any questions, please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or visit my Facebook page to learn more.

In Need Of A Discount Digital Pattern Cutting Service?

2012-09-10T07:30:00.000-07:00

If you are looking for a pattern cutting services as in an individual who can provide you with pattern drafting / pattern making skills to provide you with finished garment patterns, and you're also looking for a discount, then you've come to the right place.

Unlike other pattern makers I don't charge the high fees for my discount digital pattern making services. As a beginner in the industry, I will draft your clothing patterns for only $35 per garment item, and include free alterations should your pattern(s) need any adjustments.

The first step in my pattern cutting service will include a free drafting of a basic bodice pattern called a sloper, in the size or sizes you require, ( according to the Butterick standard size chart). Then the appropriate blocks which are also completed free of charge will be constructed for the given garment design and the pattern cutting process for your design(s) will begin.

Depending on the complexity of your garment design your pattern may take 1 - 3 days to be completed and delivered as a full size printable jpeg file via email.

Information I will need in order to start the pattern making process for your designs will include the following:

- fabric weight and type

- required seam width

- desire hem width

- desired garment fit

- intended garment closures if applicable

- size (as compliant with Butterick standard size charts)

I will also require an illustration, photo or drawing of the garment(s) for which you need patterns drafted for as well as a similar visual reference for the back of the garment and details regarding any unseen elements to be included in the pattern.

Once complete, I will email your pattern to you via the email address you've provided. You'll then be able to take your digital pattern file to your local print shop or print services to have them print out your garment pattern(s).

Aside from pattern cutting / drafting, I also provide pattern digitization and can convert your flat paper or fabric pattern to digital jpeg format so it can be converted into an accurate digitally reproduction with clean, consistent seam widths and identical, correctly placed notches.

If you are interested in this pattern cutting or digitization service or you have any questions please email me for more information at stylistwithacause@gmail.com

This PatternMaker Just Finished Reading Fashion Design Course By Steven Faerm

2012-08-24T09:56:00.001-07:00

I've just got finished reading Fashion Design Course by Steven Faerm, the BFA Director of New Yorks Fashion Design at Parsons The New School For Design. As a patternmaker / aspiring designer and someone who has already read quite a few books on the fashion industry I hadn't actually realized how informative and insightful this book would be. And when I got it in the mail, between it's saturation with pictures and it's apparent thinness, I felt it would just be a fun read about things I'd already read about fashion design.

I was dead wrong!

Where can I start? Yes, there is a lot of pictures, but once you read the deceptively small amount of text that comes with them Steven Faerm shares a wealth of key advice and tips in so many areas:

- how to find, use, and combine different sources of inspiration
- the intricate chemistry and importance of preparing color and fabric stories
- the key purpose and creation of mood/inspiration boards for your collections and how to put them together
- how to easily develop numerous looks for a single cohesive collection
- how to compose your collection to maintain viewers' interest and why collections should include a selection of day to evening wear
- how and why to create a 'one stop shopping' element in your collection
- demystifies the incorporation of important marketability in your collection
- how to choose, use and combine textiles for a collection in unique, imaginative and appropriate ways
- ideas regarding the interpretation of chosen inspiritions
- how to create a focus collection that isn't redundant
- and so much more

And the images and layout which clearly demonstrates the information provided in the text is very professional and very cool:

Although a few things, (a very few) were in it that I've read before, (and previously only very lightly covered in a fairly uninformative way), Just about everything in this book is new, in depth information for me and as for the small size, what Steven Faerm has done was outline many, many ways to learn more about each aspect of the elements that go into designing a fashion collection. He's also explained why each of these elements are so important in fashion design so that any aspiring designer will have a clear understanding of their creative responsibilities and exactly what they have to do to meet them.

If you're serious about fashion design, you have to get this book. Following the assignments given in the book, it's truly a surprisingly outstanding crash course in fashion design. If you're an aspiring designer, or you are already a designer, you should read this book, you should read this book, you should read this book. The only thing missing that could get you hired is the networking opportunities.

The one thing I would have liked to see in this book however, is discussion of fashion design theory regarding the art and science of using proportion, and more discussion and illustration of design styling dealing with garment components (as in types of sleeves, skirts, necklines, hem finishes, style lines etc, etc). That's why the bulk is missing, but hey, for that I can always get the book The Fashion Designer's Directory of Shape and Style: Over 500 Mix-And-Match Elements for Creative Clothing Design. I just need to get either that book on patternmaking for lingerie or Chunman's book on patternmaking, the portfolio skills one. Because as a patternmaker first, I need to specialize in what I'm doing here. I've got to get a book on draping for patternmaking too. I'm going to get Connie Amaden Crawford's book for that.

If you're interested in my digital pattern making service (at $35 per garment pattern) contact me at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or on my FaceBook page "Fashion Patternmaking And Design"

Want more information on the industry and online schools? Check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

Want to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

If you would just like to order basic pattern blocks for bodice, torso, coat/jacket or skirt you can place an order for the size and kind you need here at my fiverr gig Patternmaker 78, where I will draft a basic digital bodice or skirt pattern block in the size you require for $5

I've Got Pattern Making Work!

2012-08-06T23:36:00.001-07:00

Wow, this was some kind of day, out of the blue, I got a pattern client who happened to stumble across my blog. She wants me to draft up the patterns for her line of childrens' clothing. I had to draft up a size 5 children's bodice and sleeve to prepare for it, fortunately, even though my little girl is 3, she wears a size 5 so that's worked out just fine and I've got the size 5 blocks to start working on in the morning.

I want to see if I can complete a garment pattern a day for this lady. As she does need them done by Friday, I'll cross my fingers about the one pattern a day thing. I love to do the three patterns that quickly. I may be getting more work from my hat pattern client too.

In all this strong prospective client thing going on, it was kind of funny, I wasn't able to finish those tweeks to my lemon tulip lingerie pattern again, even though I hauled out my dress form and everything this morning. Oh well, maybe next weekend. At least this time the thing that stopped me was patternmaking work :), big big plus there. If I get a little extra time I'm going to email the other client of mine, the design student over in New York, see how she's been doing lately.

If you're interested in my digital pattern making service (at $35 per garment pattern) contact me at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or on my FaceBook page "Fashion Patternmaking And Design"

If you would just like to order basic pattern blocks for bodice, torso, coat/jacket or skirt you can place an order for the size and kind you need here at my fiverr gig where I will draft a basic digital bodice or skirt pattern block in the size you require for $5

Want more information on the industry and online schools? Check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

Want to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Got My Fashion Design Book And Started My Pattern Revision

2012-08-01T20:40:00.000-07:00

It's only Wednesday but a lot has happened this week to allow me to now actually have more time to work on my patternmaking and play with my kids more, what a blessing. See I got a sinus infection about a week ago, and it was just getting worse, till I looked up some herbs for it, the three I started taking are cat's claw, burdock and St John's Wort.

And what do you know? Although it's been slow in treating my sinus infection, it's brought my depression down to some positive side effects. I can now quickly get my articles done in the morning, with them only taking about 45 minutes a piece rather then 2 and 1/2 hours so I'm having time I haven't had in years and years. It's like a miracle. I recommend it to anyone who has any level of depression that your psychiatrist can't prescribe medicine for, this herb is a God send.

Now for patternmaking, I've been deciding to tie up loose ends with my pattern making stuff so this morning I checked out my basic bodice block, posted the image of the finished product on facebook and I've just finished a couple hours work on the revision for my lemon tulip lingerie pattern. Next, I'm going to do a couple extra blocks for the size 6 set of pattern blocks, the jacket, pant and skirt slopers. Then I'll grade a set up to size 8.

After that though, I think I really want to start working either on one of the designs in my personal collection, or the other portfolio piece I designed (a light purple asymmetrical jacket and skirt set). Then again, although, I like that portfolio piece, I could use the one from my collection as my portfolio piece too. I'll see how I feel about it later.

Now about the fashion design book I got from the book depository. "Fashion Design Course" by Steven Faerm came in the mail on Monday and you know, I'm just on the fifth section, but I realize I should have gotten some books on specifically fashion design too rather then just getting all the other stuff, portfolio development, fashion illustration, fashion designer's sewing secrets, patternmaking and even how to survive as a fashion designer. I actually made the mistake of thinking that fashion illustration and a book on how to make it as a fashion designer would basically cover everything that I'd need to know as a designer. I was wrong though,

A book specifically about fashion design, such as this one written by a leader in fashion design education (the director at Parsons, no less) will cover history of fashion, reasons why certain designers are so important, why fashion changes as it does, who controls it, how and why. The other things it covers are details in how a fashion designer works with other people, such as the illustrators, patternmakers and sample hands to create prototypes and so on. The responsibilities of the fashion designer are mapped out in great detail.

This book will also be teaching me about the different techniques designers use to develop collections, like how to use inspiration around them, how to combine things, learn more about garment engineering and things like that. I mean it's not to say I don't know anything about it already, I do, but I'll be learning so much more through this, it'll open new doors and crystallize things I already have the right idea about. I'm hoping it'll cover a few extra 'designer' insights about patternmaking too though.

If you're interested in my digital pattern making service (at $35 per garment pattern) contact me at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or on my FaceBook page "Fashion Patternmaking And Design"

If you would just like to order basic pattern blocks for bodice, torso, coat/jacket or skirt you can place an order for the size and kind you need here at my fiverr gig where I will draft a basic digital bodice or skirt pattern block in the size you require for $5

Want more information on the industry and online schools? Check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

Want to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Butterick Size Compliant Bodice Pattern Block Completed All Sewn Up

2012-07-26T12:55:00.000-07:00

Okay, I wanted to find a nifty way to post both these images side by side so you could see them at the same time without scrolling. Although my favorite thing to do is draft patterns and design clothes, I do like finding great ways of using social media platforms as well and then sharing them with people. If you'd like to know how to do this with your blogger photos, check it out at: http://tips.blogdoctor.me/2007/10/tips-on-pictures-in-blogger.html

As I figured my pattern blocks turned out fine even though Butterick's size 6 measurements are 1/2 " off from the ones for my dressform, no biggy. Now it's time for me to start making the torso blocks, jacket/coat block and skirt blocks for this size and then grading it up or down for the other sizes, actually, I don't know what I want to do first there. Maybe I'll grade it up and down a few times first, just to review my pattern grading book by Connie Amaden Crawford, that book was worth the money just for a few of the key diagrams that are in there.

Front View Of Bodice Pattern

Side View Of Bodice Pattern

Speaking of books, I'm really looking forward to my new ones coming from Alibris and The Book Depository, I ordered "Fashion 101: a Crash Course in Clothing " a kind of history of fashion garments, I know that's going to be a big inspiration as I love history too and the "Fashion Design Course: Principles, Practice, and Techniques: a Practical Guide for Aspiring Fashion" as my fashion design pick. There's also a book of 600 designer elements and discussion of proportion and other proportion of design elements, however before I order it I want to make sure it's not already covered in the design book that's coming.

So, I'm going to streamline my book purchases by getting ones I think I can learn the most new, most valuable stuff from, rather then getting good books that cover information I've read already. So I think my next book purchase will be either "Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear"

by Ann Haggar or "Pattern Making" by Lo, Dennic Chunman which I've heard was a "holistic approach" to pattern cutting. Apparently he's got stuff in there about John Galliano's pattern drafting techniques, I can't wait to get my hands on that one.

As for when I make my next order, I think I'm going to wait till the 20th of next month, just to make sure I'm sticking with my budget and things because when you work as a freelancer, you never know how the work flow is going to go. Instead, I'll just see how much pattern making stuff I can do and post in a bit of free time I may be getting over the next few days or so (if I'm lucky).

I've also been putting together an "Eco Friendly MakeUp Mall" on Pinterest, to help prevent and raise awareness for breast cancer with all natural, chemical and cruelty free cosmetics, you can check it out here at: http://pinterest.com/ayisha1978/the-eco-friendly-makeup-mall/ and be sure to visit often for more product images/listings

If you're interested in my digital pattern making service (at $35 per garment pattern) contact me at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or on my FaceBook page "Fashion Patternmaking And Design"

If you would just like to order basic pattern blocks for bodice, torso, coat/jacket or skirt you can place an order for the size and kind you need here at my fiverr gig where I will draft a basic digital bodice or skirt pattern block in the size you require for $5

Want more information on the industry and online schools? Check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

Want to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Surviving As A Self Taught Pattern Maker

2012-07-04T16:06:00.000-07:00

Oh man, patternmaking work is dry right now. What happened? Could this be a crashed economy thing happening? Could this lack of work be simply because I don't have a great portfolio right now, or could it just be because there's just so little money going around that designers that are just starting out can't afford to go forward themselves till things get a little better? I hate wondering about that, bad economy or not though, I've got to keep going with my patternmaking work, otherwise I'll never get anywhere with it. I hope the economy improves, not only is it scary for work to be so hard to get, but it also sad that so many people, all over the world are having it so bad right now, it's frightening too.

I'm not one to live by my fears, but the thought has crossed my mind more then once, that maybe I'm doing all this for nothing because if the world gets to be a tougher place, people aren't going to be too worried about designer clothes, kind of like what happened in France during German occupation, the Germans felt like French use of fabric and resources was a big waste so they stopped pretty much all fashion production, design and all. In fact, if it weren't for Arabs and their passion for dressing their princesses in the finest, couture as we know it would have been dead long ago. Because it was after German occupation that the Arabs successfully revived the industry through demand. Interesting story there. So who knows what could happen in the coming years. We could see a temporary 'death' of fashion and when the world completes this stage it's going through, a new perspective and approach will take place in regards to fashion. The "industry" is probably going to become completely redefined. And the green movement will most likely play a major role in all of it.

I'm not just going to wait though, I've got a game plan, I'll always work on my patternmaking and fashion design, no matter what, even if there isn't any, or much money in it, however, I've taken an animal care specialist course and will review it again if I need to get a job once both my kids are in school (that is if my patternmaking doesn't start bringing in more money by then). And on an even more practical note, if I do get work as a vet assistant, I'll also take a course in Pharmaceutical assistant and a TEFL course (teaching English As A Foreign Language) so I'll be able to make money anywhere.

That's all about 2 years away though, for now I'm just going to keep up what I'm doing here, struggling to not let my article work drown out my time as patternmaker and designer for the sake of living expenses. I'm going to try and get a few books that will hopefully further my fashion related endeavors, the first of which pretty much are number in the order I think I'll try to get them in:

1. Fashion Design Course: Principles, Practice, and Techniques: the Practical Guide for Aspiring Fashion Designers by Faerm, Steven

2. Fashion 101: a Crash Course in Clothing by Stalder, Erika And Krietzman, Arie

3. The Fashion Designer's Directory of Shape and Style: Over 600 Mix-and-Match Elements for Creative Clothing Design (Barron's Educational) by Simon Travers-Spencer, Zarida Zaman

4. Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear by Ann Haggar (very important for some close fitting garments and special occasion wear, not just undergarments)

5. The Entrepreneur's Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing by Kathleen Fasanella, Andree Conrad

6. Pattern Cutting for Women's Tailored Jackets by Winifred Aldrich

Hope to be ordering some of them soon if I can, I'll cross my fingers. As for what I've been doing lately outside of writing and family busy-ness, I've recently opened up my FaceBook Page "Fashion Patternmaking And Design" were I'll be offering

- my digital patternmaking services to anyone looking for a patternmaker (if you're interest just visit my page or email me at stylistwithacause@gmail.com)

- basic block patterns in different standard sizes (Butterick's sizes that is) for designers and home sewers looking for something to start designing their own clothes with

- and the patterns for my own designs as I get the time to develop them

I've also opened a basic pattern block drafting gig on Fiverr, for anyone who needs a particular size basic block pattern, here's the link: I will draft a basic digital bodice or skirt pattern block in the size you require for $5

And from now on each of my blog posts will end with all 4 of these links below:

If you're interested in my digital pattern making service (at $35 per garment pattern) contact me at stylistwithacause@gmail.com or on my FaceBook page "Fashion Patternmaking And Design"

If you would just like to order basic pattern blocks for bodice, torso, coat/jacket or skirt you can place an order for the size and kind you need here at my fiverr gig where I will draft a basic digital bodice or skirt pattern block in the size you require for $5

Want more information on the industry and online schools? Check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

Want to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Only The Buttons Left To Do On My Lemon Tulip Pattern

2012-06-23T16:11:00.000-07:00

Okay, I've got to fess up, this post is a week late as I did all this work last weekend and simply wasn't able to write a post for the life of me due to housework. It's a shame, but here are the photos of my finished look. My only complaints about the finished design, is that I think I should have made the waist and midriff band half the width (I just had to say that), I wish there was at least an extra 1/2" of ease in the waistband and the sleeves, although every bit as beautiful as I wanted them to be, should have been a bit shorter by at least 2". I'll be sure to put in all these tweaks when I re-work the pattern.

Other than that, there are only the buttons left to put in and those are going to be the metal ball buttons. I still liked them after I had the garments sewn up, they're a little quirky for the design, I know, but I like them, it fits anyway. I'm not so sure about the lingerie part though actually, lol, after watching a few Tinkerbell movies, great 3D movies there, I think my design is more of a fairy costume, so funny. I'll have to do some serious lingerie another time, Oh hold it, I had an idea for a piece a few months back, I should work it out for my portfolio...! Awesome idea there. I think I want to do my jacket design anyway though. Now to decide which one I'm going to work on first.

It might have to wait till next weekend though because I've got a pile of dishes sitting in the kitchen (note, I didn't restrict it to 'sink' eeeck!) and unfortunately my article writing suffered this week so I've got to make that up too.

I've got another confession to make as well, out of all the "how to" fashion books I've read, pattern making, sewing secrets, couture sewing, designer details, pattern grading and even various book on the fashion industry but .... after all is said and done, I realized last week that I've never actually read a book on Fashion Design. Isn't that crazy? I've got to get another book on pattern making, either dealing with women's suites, specialty patternmaking or patternmaking for lingerie, but my next book purchase will have to also include a book on Fashion Design, as in the design process that goes into collection development. I've already got a list of books I'm going to be picking from.

I'll have to choose between a book that focuses on the process itself from the perspective of a fashion school professor or another that focuses on the history of fashion design and the process. (I'm a sucker for history so this is a tough choice). Soon as I get my web cam up and running, or get a real camera, I'll start making book reviews of all the cool books I've been reading, or rather have read on fashion and patternmaking.

Any way, I didn't eat anything yet since early this morning either so I better get busy with my non-fashion work for now :(

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Only A Bit More Work Left On My Lemon Tulip Lingerie Pattern

2012-06-10T20:06:00.000-07:00

Okay, I've been letting depression getting the better of me, but today I was a bit more victorious, putting aside everything to do a few hours work on my lemon tulip lingerie pattern for my portfolio. I reminded myself this morning that when you're depressed an important thing to do is just conquer you fear by doing one of the things you're afraid of. JUST DO IT! Like in the 80s, remember those days?

Any way, I sewed the curved/petal ends of the sleeves, clipped and pressed the seams, then went to work on the bodice waistband, adjusting the length to fit the bodice's alterations I did a few weeks ago. Turns out, I had made it about in inch longer than I intended even if the pattern didn't need alteration. A new rule to remember popped into my head at that point...that I better use CurveCalc to measure and compare all edges that are supposed to be sewn together, I don't know what happened, I think that when I was drafting the bodice's darts I must not have taken the amount out of what was needed for it's waistband.

I ended up having to make the center back seam anyway though and clipping the remaining additional amount away from the ends. Everything turned out great though, the sewing was a lot better than it was on my skirt as well. Practice makes perfect. The other thing to though, that's always been on my side, is whenever I'm not satisfied with my work, I mull over it in my mind about how I should have done it and I'll do this over and over. It seems to add to the actual practice I put in. So now all I have to do is slip stitch in the wrong side of the waistband, gather and sew in the sleeves then put in the buttons. Then I'll be done :) . Here's a picture of the piece so far...

the waistband only needs to be slip-stitched in now

As for the buttons I'm thinking now that I want to use those light weight steel foil ball buttons. I'm not going to be sure though till the other sewing is all done.

Now about my patternmaking portfolio, I'm still thinking about what kind of pieces to put it together with. So I was checking out JoeysPatterns.com of Joey Johannson freelance pattern making service, taking a look at the kinds of pieces she put in her online portfolio called "photos of work". She's got photos of the Dresses, Jackets, Tops, Skirts and Pants she did patterns for as they were worn on the runway, beautiful shots. As for the designs themselves, they're a combination of simple to more complex pieces that demonstrate her ability to make a well fitting garment regardless of how many style lines needed to be drafted into the pattern.

She's not a nobody either, she's worked for the likes of Betsy Johnson, Rebecca Taylor, LAMB, Alice and Olivia and many other big name designers. A good example to model my own portfolio from. She also included the flat sketches with the jackets she did. I want to include design illustrations with mine though, I think it reveals an ability to interpret a design better than a more blueprint flat sketch would. Not to criticize her choices though, I love her site, her work and her story, very inspiring. If you'd like to check it out here's the link: http://www.joeyspatterns.com/

As for my own portfolio pieces, I've got to design something that illustrates those kind of skills, but doesn't require me to purchase anything other than what I have already. Soon as I'm done with this I'll have to do some brainstorming about it. Hmm, that's kind of exciting...

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

What Buttons To Use On My Lemon Tulip Skirt And Other Considerations

2012-06-03T13:51:00.000-07:00

Okay, I'm faced with the decision of which buttons to use on my design. I don't have that many and don't want to buy anything that isn't eco friendly. So here are the following options I've got to choose from coming out of my old button can...

I love these buttons, and there wouldn't actually be a decision to make if I had two more smaller versions of these buttons, but I only have two and one large crystal flower button.

I like these marble, crystal buttons but they're a bit heavy for the fabric and don't quite suite the design or the fabric color.

These metal ball buttons are a little quirky for the design, but there's something about the combination I like a lot, can't quite put my finger on it

These buttons match and all, but they don't add any character to the design and all though they're the right size and weight, I don't care for them too much.

After all is said and done, I think I'm going to actually finish the bodice portion of the lemon tulip look before I decide which buttons to use.

I've got to decide how I'm going to go about trimming down the ease for the bodice bands, however, and then transfer the changes to the digital pattern. I'm going to make the digital changes later, as for the actual fabric pieces with the interfacing sewn in and things, hmm. I don't actually want to cut into that. If I sew a seam down the center I guess that could fix the problem but there'd be a bulk issue and a new seam. Or, I could figure the amount to take off the sides, cut off the necessary amount, while making sure to include seam allowance. That way I could preserve the center notch. This means I'll be taking off 5/8" off each side seam of the bodice bands.

After that I'll have to stay stitch the double sided tulip sleeves after taking in 6/8" from the under arm seam I'll have to create. If I sew this pattern up again, it won't have that seam though. I'll be putting in the gathering stitches too and prepare to sew the sleeves into a french seam. Can't wait to see how the french seam is going to work with the double sided tulip sleeve. I hope the shape and curve of the sleeve will turn out the way I wanted too.

As for the interior closures for the design, I'm going to leave it to a couple pairs of hooks and eyes since they'll be out of sight.

Any comments and suggestions about the buttons I should use are welcome, thanks.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

My Lemon Tulip Skirt Only Needs A Button Or Two Now

2012-05-27T19:37:00.000-07:00

I just managed to finish my lemon tulip skirt portion of my portfolio piece today, I had to blind slip stitch the waistband to the wrong side of the skirt and then tack the hen facing to the inside of the skirt edge with the same blind slip stitch. I have to say, after seeing how it looks, I think I change my mind about wanting a fine hand rolled hem instead. I really like the way this turned out. Take a look below...

I love the way it curves gently outward from the waist then tapers to a narrow opening at the hemline...just like a tulip. So lovely. Now, I remember hearing on Fashion File, years ago, they were talking about one of John Galliano Couture collections for Dior had such fine craftsmanship, but that it was done with such a fine hand "...the clothes didn't look beat up". I was afraid that once I tacked down the facing to the inside of the skirt that it be weighted down and look overworked instead of looking like...a tulip, but it turned out great. Thank God.

I just have decide on what kind of closure type I'm going to use. In a Threads Magazine article, I read that any kind of closure on lingerie should act as additional embellishment and treated like jewelry. Okay, I've got to look for the right buttons then and make sure I've got 4 altogether, two for the skirt and two for the bodice piece.

When I'm finished with this portfolio piece though, I mean the entire look, not just this skirt, I'm going to put up another Patternmaking ad and include my portfolio link, I think I'll redo the url for that thing too, it's not great for Google pick up with the words it's using now. I think I'm going to offer my old deal again too, 4 patterns at $35 EUR each get the 5th one free.

On another note now though, I've put together a Pinterest board in dedication to my mom who has passed away. I haven't been able to think about much else lately, it troubles me that not enough people got to know just how wonderful and loving my mom was. She had an extremely well rounded range of interests and concerns for many things, the kind of things that mattered. I miss her very much and wanted to share what I could about her character. Here is the link to the Pinterest I made for her: http://pinterest.com/ayisha1978/all-about-mom/ and the photo of her that I'm going to use as the cover.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Patternmaking And Pattern Alteration On My Design

2012-05-19T10:05:00.000-07:00

I sewed the scalloped neckline facing onto the bodice yesterday. To all us sewing moms out there, who haven't done this sort of thing yet, don't do it with a wiggly baby in your lap, it's not going to turn out the way you want it. Big No No. However, here are a few "to do" notes, sew sharp curves very slowly, think of machine stitching as taking one stitch at a time, one stitch at a time, stop and go, stop and go.

The result will be a smoother stitching line, greater symmetry. I also lightly marked my stitching line this time to 'see' better what I was doing (See Below). I also loosened up the pressure foot tension on my Singer sewing machine, just wish it could have been lightened up even more, as the fabric still wasn't as free to move as I would have liked (my make of machine only goes so far though).

I was thinking though, this type of sewing is why it would be great to actually have a manual sewing machine still.

Once I did the fitting, I realized it had too much ease, here a few pictures to show it...

eeek! too much ease in the pattern

I would need to distribute the ease take up evenly between the side seams, front and back darts as well as between the bustline and midriff level so as not to through the pattern off balance. So I took

3/8" from the side seams and 1/8" from each dart which is actually a total of 1" and 3/4" ease take up. I'll have to take the changes to the midriff band as well.

Here are the results after I made the necessary pattern alterations...

pattern alterations made, much better fit

Will have to adjust the armscye curves too... what to do about the bias cut sleeve pattern? I didn't want to have a seam, but I'll create 3/8" underarm seam without cutting it open. I'll just clip it at the soft foldline and turn it inside out (as the bias cut tulip sleeve was cut on a fold to prevent it from having a completely sewn sleeve hem).

If I had the money, I would have made a muslin out of some organic cotton or something, like I was supposed to, totally you know? But, I didn't, and I would also buy some additional fabric to make a new version because this light weight yellow damask fabric is so delicate.

I need proper pressing equipment too!

I was looking at a Calvin Klein collection afterwards though from back in 1991, that was a good year, miss those days, Check it out here from Fashion Channel on YouTube:

...and it had me thinking. I may choose a simpler, clean, fitted cut for my next portfolio garment design. After all is said and done, if a 'promotional' project is to ambitious before it has the proper backing (in either knowledge, skill or finances) it can do more damage in a way, then the good. it will do. But only in a way.

I've learned a lot though, still on, and it felt good to finally produce something from a pattern I drafted on the computer. In the end, it wasn't actually my computer drafting that was even the problem. Everything was fine there, I just didn't know how to draft that kind of pattern correctly (cropped midriff lingerie style garment) and which finishing elements would work best for that kind of design. That's why I'm going to be buying that lingerie book though, "Pattern Cutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear" by Ann Haggar. I can't wait.

I really should have used a fine hand rolled hem along that scalloped edge, I was just hoping to get a crisp clean edge with the faced hem, next time I'll clip the hem allowance and roll it in place along a pre-sewn guideline. That should work much better. However, I think I'd still like to use the facing approach with the neckline because I really like how it "stands" on the neckline, see below... I just love that.

So today, I'm going to hopefully continue work on the skirt portion of this outfit, that is if I'm able to get a little time. I've got to take my kids out again to the park, can't miss that, especially not on a day like this.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Serious Progress on my Patternmaking Portfolio

2012-05-11T10:46:00.000-07:00

I can't remember if I posted a link to my Patternmaking Portfolio I just put up a while ago, if I didn't here it is: https://sites.google.com/site/ayisha1978designerpatternmaker/home/work-i-ve-completed-for-my-gracious-clients

Really though, I should adjust the seo in that url. The slideshow is a result of patterns I've drafted for another designer's collection. I've got 3 collections of my own I should work on. However, for the moment I've been working on my first, self designed portfolio piece, the lemon tulip lingerie design. Yesterday I was able to sew the skirt sections together, using beautiful french seams, and attached the hem facing to it's scalloped edge then clipped and understiched the seam. Then I sewed the bodice sections together and pinned on the neckline facing. Here are the pictures:

clipping the scalloped facing seam

right side of the skirt's scalloped edge

pin the corners of your scalloped facing to match correctly

didn't have the right pressing equipment to do a professional
job, however, by using the tip of the iron and making tiny
pressing movements the resulting scallop edge turned out
very nicely

My first french seam, such a beautiful seam, it is time consuming
though, extra pressing is required and seam trimming. One of my
books suggested to sew the first seam 1/4" press, close and sew
it into another 1/4" seam, this would have been messy though. With
a little more research in two other sewing books, you clip the seam
to 1/8" and then sew it into a 1/4" seam, this is the correct way.

the completed skirt section, ready for gathering
into the waist band

However, as nice as the sewing is going, I've discovered a 'lack of experience' issue with the drafting of the midriff area of the bodice, it's got more ease than I meant for it to have. Now I know a secret I have to learn more about (I actually love this kind of thing) Here it is:

When you do a typical draft of a regular shoulder to waist pattern, there's a little bit of ease at the waist unless you take it out and it will fit nicely. But... if you draft a bodice pattern that reached down some where below the bustline, you'll discover that due to the inverse curve of the human body in that area, there's quite a bit more ease than you'd like in a garment that supposed to be close fitting.   This is a very important detail to know, especially if you want design or draft patterns for empire waist garments, midriff designs or bras.   I probably would have learned this had I gotten my hands on the lingerie pattern drafting book I want to get.

Anyway, my bodice ends just under the bust and I'm going to do a double check to see if I need to adjust the entire side seam or just the underbust edge. If so I'll determine the amount to take from each side seam at the underarms and then check how much more needs to be taken up at the midriff edge. What ever needs to be taken up at the midriff, I'm going to divide by 6, with an amount taken up by each of the 4 darts (2 in the back and 2 in the front) and an amount at each side. (Mind you, pattern wise, it'll look like I only took half the amount from the side seam).

Then I'll have to adjust the midriff band accordingly as well as the bias cut tulip sleeves and take all the adjustments to my pattern in CorelDraw 9. I'll complete that with some fitting notes for lingerie. It will help to crystalize all the information.

As for the skirt fit, I'm pretty sure it'll be fitting like I want, since it's at the waist and all, I just hope it's going to have a bit of puff I was hoping for, we'll see.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

The Patternmaker Needs To Get Good At Sewing (For Their Own Sake)

2012-04-22T20:22:00.002-07:00

Weekends should always be devoted to your family (in addition to the time you set aside during the week for your family as well) but if you're going to do something for your business/career you should focus on those activities that don't necessarily make you any money right away but will help bring your career or business forward. My personal example being my lemon tulip lingerie pattern. I started sewing it today, little machine sewing, little hand stitching.

The first thing I'm working on is getting the facings and waist and bodice band together. My past experience has been that small pieces get lost or damaged if you've got kids and pets so I'm avoiding the problem totally by hanging these sewn up sections on a hanger. As for protecting my other work on the ironing board, I've covered it all up with a blanket to keep my cats from putting pulls in my work.

I've started catchstitching the self fabric interfacing to the back bodice band already (see photo below)

and it had me reflecting on what Kathleen Fasenella said "a patternmaker should have exceptional sewing skills". It's true for the benefit of both the clients in need of patternmaking services and the patternmakers themselves. Speaking as an entry level patternmaker making money from providing this service I understand the reasons for this are:

1. being able to sew up your own patterns will crystalize several things:

     (a) where the notches need to be when you get confused
     (b) how much fabric a design actually needs
     (c) the fit resulting from your approach to drafting

2. if your pattern turns out well, you'll have full confidence in the product/service you're offering, you won't think it fit because you applied your knowledge of pattern drafting as well as you could, but you KNOW your pattern is accurate.   This is confidence for a patternmaker.

3. Confidence results in taking less time to do your work simply because your not hesitating any more about whether or not your making the right move.

Aside from all this perfection though, I've got to make mention of how important is is not to be a perfectionist, at least not right away.   My mom taught me how to sew and went a long way in inspiring me when it comes to fashion. However, she was a self proclaimed "non-perfectionist" which was good for me because it allowed me not to be quite so intimidated by the lengthy process of garment design, development and construction.   Chances are, if she had enforced perfection, I might not have took this career path.

Case in point, I took my perfectionist attitude to my art and I didn't get nearly as far in developing my skills as an artist as I did in patternmaking and fashion design.   To this day I'm still intimidated by the thought of picking up a brush or pencil. Although I do intend to overcome with this when I get the time.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

I dedicate everything to my mom

2012-04-17T11:25:00.001-07:00

This morning as I was laying out my pattern pieces and the fabric pieces I cut from them, I recieved a call from Manitoba that my mom had suffered a massive heart attack around 8:15 am. She never made it to the hospital.

My parents had a sudden divorce several years ago after being together around 31 years, in the end it didn't work out and my mom left to live out on the prairies again. I was always very close to my mom but this situation seemingly evaporated our active closeness to the point where months would go by, even a year and she never called.   I had to find her number through a bit of investigation.   The guy she was living with couldn't even keep the phone lines open.

She never even got the chance to see her little grand daughter, my daughter Salma and her grandson all grown up into a big almost 5 year old boy.   Before she let me know that she was leaving my father, I had a dream that I had lost her, she was beside me one minute and was gone the next after telling me she'd meet up with me outside the building to go home. When I looked for her she wasn't there...in the dream I had the unmistakable feeling that I'd just completely lost her.

And here I was, this morning, looking over the work I'd started, after this terrible phone call.   I wouldn't have been into this work, atleast it wouldn't have been as ingrained in me if it hadn't been for my mom.   She'd take me to the fabric and pattern department in Woodwards department store downtown back in the 80s and we'd be there for hours looking through pattern books and searching for just the right fabric.

She would get a pattern, cut it out, lay it out on the living room floor and I'd watch her put everything together into a beautiful garment.   I was always facinated by this and wanted to learn the secrets of why the pattern pieces where shaped the way they were.   She'd sew them on her shiny black and gold enameled Singer sewing machine.   As she turned the wheel, it would sound like a tiny train.   She put me on the path I'm on today.

She always talked about making the world a better place, helping both people and animals in whatever way was needed and protecting the environment out of the sincere love for everything that God created.   She talked about these things as long as I can remember.   I loved that about my mom.   I loved that about my mom. I always wanted to be like her, but go a step up and be able to make her dreams a reality.   To make an impact, a growing one, throughout my life so that I leave the world as a better place than when I came into it. So the world's children and other innocent creatures will be able to face a safer, brighter future than the one I thought I was facing.

Everything I do in my life, every success and difference that I am able to make, I dedicate to my mom.   The beautiful spirit that nourished and cared for the best in me. I'm setting out to fulfill your dreams mom and try to raise my children to be the way you wanted me to be. I love you with all my heart.   And I'm sorry for the misunderstanding between us that happened after you left.

The Patternmaker's Update: It's Been A Crazy Week

2012-04-12T13:27:00.001-07:00

Okay, so on our holiday weekend I'd planned to get my first portfolio piece completed, I was raring to go and then I sat at the sewing machine to figure out stitch length and thread tension that would work for this beautiful but thin and slippery fabric I want to sew the lemon tulip lingerie pattern out of and...

The little rubber wheel that creates the traction necessary for new bobbin thread to be wound around a bobbin had melted into a gross black goo around the wheel it was supposed to be on. And that wasn't all, there was a piece of broken plastic from the socket that held the top thread spool, so there was only one thing left to do. Open her up and see if I could fix the problem(s). I'd found a crayon in the machine as well as the clip of marker top, my daughter's doing for sure.

I've fixed a sewing machine I had before, several times, with success. And I also repaired a scroll saw, on my own, again with success. I took time and patients and all but I did it so I had no inhibitions about opening up this Brother sewing machine and seeing if I could get it up and running again. Well after all was said and done, with an attempt to fit the wheel with a quintupled rubberband and then when I decided it wouldn't work because it was getting shredded, I headed for the toy box in search of a little car. Have you ever seen them? Little hard black rubber wheels, they might have been just the thing I needed, I did find one, and I did fit 2 of the cars wheels on the bobbin mechanism, but when I tried to run the machine, they too began to melt. Yuck, you know? Okay, so maybe the Brother company has the right wheel...I'll just have to email them, I thought.

Then, the needle bar somehow got misaligned too, so that the needle completely missed the bobbin case. No luck at all trying to figure that one out. I did what I always do, compare adjacent pieces, look for what looks like it's fitted wrong, was there something sitting in the plastic case the wrong way? Nothing made any sense. Why did this time have to be a problem I couldn't fix?

WELL, my husband came to my rescue and told me he'd get a new on for me on Monday, which he did along with a new computer to replace this beat up HP laptop that's been giving me a hard time. He's been watching me work on these computer patterns and get article projects done and realized I'm dead serious about what I'm into so he's offered his loving support and got me a beautiful new Singer sewing machine and a cool new Acer computer.

So I've been setting up the computer with all the programs and things I use to work and getting a new client's pattern completed (I actually just sent it off a few minutes ago). It was my very first corset pattern for a designer in Saudi Arabia. I hope they keep me on as a client. It takes me a little longer to do work for a new client because I usually need to first prepare a brand new sloper for them from scratch, they don't give me one. I'm not sure why, I guess they don't know about it. I did hear that companies and designers are supposed to provide the patternmaker with the sloper in the size they want though.

Any while doing a bit of research this week also had me discover the reason behind the necessity of perfection in a patternmaker's work. Thought it was just a pickiness thing? Think again. A person familiar with home sewing could easily make this mistake (I did for a while and I am a perfectionist) but the thing about homesewers, as Kathleen Fasanella puts it, " homesewers expect too much from themselves" they're highly skilled, where as the people working in a factory are not and don't need to be. This is why the pattern has to be perfect, flawless without so much as a 1/32 of an inch mistake, yes I'm not kidding you, don't even allow yourself a 1/32 of an inch mistake.

Because, the people working the factory sewing machines only have a small part of the garment to sew and they may not be aware how everything else is supposed to fit together they also won't know if something is a little off. And the mistake will go from one person to the next, no one knowing how to fix the problem, with chances being that the one mistake will cause additional mistakes and you'll end up with imperfect garments. The horror. And everyone will know it was your fault, you are the one who made a mistake!

Any way, how do you solve/prevent this problem all together, simple, when you're working on the computer, (God bless these things) set your nudge distance to 0.031 (this is the 1/32" I was talking about) and work under a microscope, in CorelDraw 9 for example, this means zooming in till 1" is about 5" or 6" on the screen. Make sure all your points, lines and curves match up everywhere under this "microscope" and remind yourself that this attention to detail is what will set you apart from the rest.

And just for the sake of reference, should any of you be using CorelDraw 9 to draft patterns, like myself, when you've powerclipped something into a 'container' to be able to cut it up into separate, perfect panels, make sure your cutting path ( this can be a straight or shaped line) isn't closed. If it is a closed path for some reason the interior of this path gets rid of the pattern piece you're trying to slice through.

Okay, so now I've got another dress pattern to do for my client in New York and I have to watch the dvd that came with the Singer sewing machine so I can start sewing with it fairly quick. Maybe this weekend, I'm hoping, unless something else comes up. But my deadline is either by the end of this month of April, or at the very least the first week or two of May.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Sewing Your Own Digital Pattern You Drafted, Printed And Cut Out

2012-04-06T17:00:00.000-07:00

I cut my lemon tulip lingerie pattern out yesterday and looked it over, going about the task of sewing it in my mind (yes I'm a little apprehensive, I haven't sewn in a while, about 2 years and don't know how well my machine is going to handle the work). Aside from that though, working with a pattern you've drafted yourself is an indispensable learning experience and this won't be the only time I do it. I'm going to sew my own samples once I get started.

So what did I learn about patternmaking for this exercise so far? Okay, 2 things at this time: Take a look at the picture below of my pattern's sleeve pattern...

1. Most of the cap on the finished sleeve to this to-be bias cut block is going to be gathered to hopefully create a bit of a "puff" to enhance the tulip shape. So; The area to be gathered should be marked from beginning to end, and in this case with the top of the sleeve cap being notched on both sides of the sleeve overlap. And oh oh, I forgot the little arrows at the ends of my bias grainline. And where are my annotations? Ughhh, well, the patterns I did for my client have been getting a lot more professional since I did this one a while back, so I won't get too mad at myself.

Next lesson:

Take a look at the original pattern this sleeve was drafted from. Because the spread from the central underarm area isn't spread evenly (see the highest notch on either side nearest the center of the underarm), with the difference in the degree of the spread between the front and back of the sleeve cap, there will be an uneven ratio of fabric to gather. One side is about 8" and need to be gathered to 4 1/8" and the other side is 5 inches and need to be gather to about 3". Next time I'll know better. So the rule is this, make sure there's a uniform distance between each spread so your gathers will also be uniform. I do think I read this before, but now it's definitely crystallized...nothing like hands on you know.

Now, I spent the morning preparing for my first portfolio piece. I want to get everything right, so I pulled out all my sewing books, organized my sewing equipment, dug up some old sewing machine needles, cleaned my sewing machine, pulled out my lovely fabric and ironed out all it's creases (see the photo below, I didn't buy this non-eco fabric, however, it was given to me about 15 years ago and I never knew what to do with it till now)

Photography tip here, to take a beautiful shot of a piece of satin jacquard hang it off of something and put another light source on it to show off it's double textures and shine.

So, now, I'm going to take the little bit of fabric I took off the ends of this material and figure out which stitch length, thread tension and thread size to use. I'm thanking God that I won't have any top stitching to do because I don't have any yellow thread. I'll have to use one of my white threads. All the edging and hem work to do is going to be faced for a clean smooth edge. I'm thinking about blind stitching the facing to the garment if necessary though.

Oh, yeah, I also have to cut out the pattern blocks. I don't want to tailor tack the darts though as I don't want the fabric marred, so I'm going to make a piece of graphite paper and trace the interior of the darts onto the fabric, lightly though so it won't show up in the finished garment.

Also, because I want everything to turn out perfect, I'm making this an industrial sewing exercise, I've got my books out and open to make sure:

- all the seams are sewn in the right direction in orientation to fabric grain and garment block
- all seams are graded to the correct width
- everything will be pressed properly
- and all the right finishes are applied

This little project may take me a while to finish though as, hey I'm scared, but I love this project so much, I got to do it, but I want to do it totally right.

I'll be keeping you posted

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

I've Got My Lemon Tulip Lingerie Pattern Printed Out At Staples

2012-03-30T18:52:00.000-07:00

I thought it would be taking me at least another month or so to finally get around to having my lemon tulip pattern printed out but what do you know, I called Staples up to find out if I could do this online and... Well I couldn't because their system isn't set up to handle two different file sizes (poster and double poster size) but I could load the files onto a disk and bring it in for them to do.

On March 20th I had the money to do a little something and turns out it cost $13 dollars for the whole pattern print out. Next time I'll be a little more efficient in my layout, but I couldn't tell which size I could use by Staples' online restrictions that turned out to be irrelevant anyway. They do larger sizes for example. And it was like 36 cent a page, not bad. Here they are: just click on it to get a closer look.

So now all I have to do is cut it out, cut the pattern out in fabric and sew it up and put it on my dressform, then there'll be a piece in my portfolio to show off, well, the first and only piece till I've got more to show. That reminds me though, I forgot I can add the garment photos from my other previous client, from last year. That'll be great.

The other great news is that I'm a little over half finished with my client's 10 look collection, she loves my work and would like to work with me over the long term. I don't think there's a bigger confidence booster than someone liking to work with you (and of course liking your work) so much that they want to continue. Hehehe, she's in New York too, fashion hub of America, how cool is that?

Okay well when anything new comes up or I get a breather from my work and family responsibilities I'll be posting again. I just haven't been able to get around to it. I've got article rewriting projects to take care of aside from my patterns and money has been really tight. Despite this though, I want to set a strong moral tone for my son and start a monthly donation project with him. Ever heard of Plan Canada? I love what they're doing, you can pick out "gifts of hope" to have sent to someone over seas. So what I did is told my son how the program works, and had him pick out two gifts that we'll be sending to someone... that is, as soon as I get my payment for the last pattern I did.... still waiting for that one, it won't be long though. Even if it goes into the beginning of April I'm considering it March's donation and will be sharing the notification on Facebook then I'm going to let him pick another gift for the end of April. For March, he's picked out 3 chicks and a mango tree. He's a pretty smart little guy.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:

Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:

The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Why Watch Current (and past) Fashion Videos

2012-03-18T14:01:00.000-07:00

I've heard and read that the reason to watch fashion shows are to keep up with the latest trends, and when it comes to collections of the past, to gain insight and inspiration from what designers have done before. And this is just one of the ways to get ideas for a new "original" collection of your own. Other ways of course are to look at the different clothing styles from other cultures and periods, looking at art and artifacts, nature, architecture even just checking out the new textiles, prints and fabric innovations can be a source of inspiration.

However these are designer's reasons to watch fashion videos, Patternmakers have completely different reasons and approach to watching both new and old fashion videos. For example I was watching Donna Karan's winter 2012/2013 collection a while ago and as a patternmaker I was inspired, challenged and intrigued by the cut of the garments. I found myself automatically wondering "how was that done?" and then challenging myself with the question of how and if I could do that myself for my own designs. Take a look for yourself:

This was actually quite a wonderful experience for me and I look forward to it every time I watch a new fashion video now (or a retro one for that matter).

Designers come up with new design challenges and adventures all the time that work out to be a great way to keep a patternmaker's mind on it's tip toes. It's actually made me head in the direction of looking into more speciallty patternmaking books as well, right now I've got my eyes on Pattern Making Portfolio Skills and the Pattern Magic series.

If you'd like to see more great quality fashion videos subscribe to fatalfashion's channel on Youtube.com
just visit: http://www.youtube.com/user/FatalefashionII?feature=watch

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page

Secrets Of How To Expand Your Patternmaking Skills

2012-02-23T07:38:00.002-08:00

Okay, I've read the best book on patternmaking by Connie Amaden Crawford, and it's a good one, better than the first one I bought. However, once you're "in the field" and dealing with clients, you learn something real fast...you didn't learn everything you need to know. Not by a long shot. Clients will always ask you for something that will be undiscovered territory for you, be it a bra, or tailored suit or, oh horrors (just kidding) an unusual size. Okay so here's what you do.

1. first of all get real practice in, you'll learn soon enough that you want more educational resources

2. even though pattern grading and alterations are actually different job descriptions, as in people get paid to these things, like only those things, as a patternmaker, it would seriously behove you to learn them, and quickly

3. think specialization and seek out the available resources, I'll get specific here

(a) there's a chance someone will want a tailored suit, find books on patterncutting, patternmaking for tailored suites, you need to do lingerie patterns for another client, hurry up and find a book on patternmaking for lingerie, not sewing lingerie, patternmaking for lingerie, this will have more info on what you need where as the sewing type instruction book will have those less fitted designs you could have drafted on your own any way, that's not what your clients are asking for

(b) clients sometimes ask for their own size, they're fashionista designers and they fit into tiny clothes but they aren't the exact size of industry fit models so you need to learn pattern alterations, another reason for this, if a client is in a niche size market, say for a really big cup size and shape, then you'll definitely need pattern alteration skills, go to Amazon and look up pattern alteration books and dvds. Also do a google search for pattern alterations, you'll find ideas on people's blogs, there are a lot of them, as well as books, classes, dvds, see what people are saying before you spend your money though.

(c) definietly get a book on grading, clients don't ask for one little size, your clients will ask for all kind of sizes and the reason you want to know how to grade corrrectly is because you'll need and want to know how to take the basic bodice you know is a perfect fit and grade it into a perfect bodice of another size without serious fitting issues for your new clients.

Speaking of which, I've just ordered Connie Amaden Crawford's Pattern Grading workbook and can't wait to get it, to be sure. I've looked up grading info online and learnt some great stuff, but I don't really have the confidence I need to know, that I know what I'm doing for sure, I just have the courage to keep going. There's a difference, believe me.

Okay, I hope all you fellow aspiring patternmakers out there have found this at least somewhat enlightning. Also, as I collect more educational resources, books and dvds, I'll post the reviews of them here on my blog too. So be sure to come back again.

Good news is too, I was finally able to get through the Squidoo so that I can start editing and publishing changes on my lenses again, so hopefully between my current patternmaking client and article client I'll find a few moments here and there to update my two fashion lenses. Or I might leave it for a few weeks still. I'll make it easy and post announcements here for you guys.

If you'd like to read more about fashion, information on the industry and online schools check out my site at:
Budget Online Fashion Design Schools and Resources

If you're a designer or home sewer and you'd like to find some cool eco-friendly fabrics and more check out my resource page at:
The Eco-Friendly Fashion Designer's Resource Page