The fine print:

This offer is available to new WTDirect clients only. Primary account holder must not have held a WTDirect account in the past 12 months. To receive the bonus, a valid promotion code starting with the letters “WFIT” must be present on the application at the time of account opening. WTDirect account must be funded via electronic (ACH) transfer received by 7/31/09. Account must remain open and in good standing through 10/31/09, the end of the promotion period. There is no minimum balance to open the account but the bonus is determined by the account balance at the time of initial funding, which must be a minimum of $10,000 and must remain on deposit through the end of the promotional period. Bonus will be credited to client’s WTDirect account on or about 11/20/09. WTDirect reserves the right to cancel or modify this promotion at any time without notice.

If you click through the bonus link above, the promotion code of wfitc32_1760738 or similar should already be filled in for you.

The Numbers: 2.75 to 3% APY 3-month CD
How does the bonus work out when converted to an interest rate? To start, you are already getting 1.76% APY, or about 1.75% APR. On $10,000 for 3 months, that’s 10000 x 0.0175/12 x 3 = $43.75 in interest. Since the bonus is $25 for a $10,000 balance, this works out to about 2.75% APY. On a $50,000 balance, the bonus is $150 and works out to nearly 3% APY.

Therefore, you can treat this bonus as a 3-month CD paying 2.75 to 3% APY, which is more than 1% higher than any other available 3-month CD.

Application Process and Setup

I’ve already opened a WTDirect account for a previous bonus, so here a quick summary of what to expect when applying. First, they gather the personal info. Second, they use the now-popular Equifax ID check questions to verify your identity. Third, you can fund electronically with account and routing numbers, although you must come back and verify trial deposits later. Finally, you can electronically sign the application and disclosures. There were no physical forms to send in, although a welcome packet does arrive by mail. They state explicitly that there is no credit check.

As for practical matters, WT Direct’s online transfer system allows unlimited linked banks, and transfers to external accounts are free both in and out with a 2-3 day transfer time.

You must open a Zecco Forex account, fund the account, and make your first trade by July 31st, 2009. The promotional code given to me was CashAd04. The actual bonus amount depends on how much money you have in the account when you place your first trade:

The fine print:

To qualify for cash bonus, you must open and fund a new Zecco Forex trading account by July 31, 2009. After first trade is initiated, cash bonus will be deposited to your account within 3-5 business days. Bonus amount varies based on amount of deposit according to the following schedule: $200 bonus with deposit of 10,000 or more; $100 bonus with deposit of $2500 -$9999; $75 bonus with deposit of $1001-$2500, $50 bonus with deposit up to $1000. Cash bonus cannot be withdrawn within 90 days of initial funding. Existing Zecco Forex customers who have funded and traded are not eligible to receive this promotion. Self-directed trading accounts only; managed accounts and accounts referred by an Introducing Broker are not eligible to receive this promotion. Limit one cash bonus per customer. This offer is non-transferable.

Credit card funding. An possible extra is that you can fund via a credit card. According to posters in this FW thread, this should show up an a purchase, which means we can get miles or cash back on top of the $200 bonus. There is a $5,000 cap on each credit card funding, but you can perform multiple transactions. However, there is a chance that withdrawals will also be done to a credit card, which would negate any rewards. Worth a shot?

Warning. Forex accounts let you use things like 200x leverage, which means you can both win or lose a lot of money really, really fast. (More likely lose due to spreads.) Don’t place a trade until you know what you’re doing. I’ll post my trades if I do them. So far, I am looking at placing an unleveraged/minimally leveraged trade with a 1-2 pip spread in a Mini account.

Sometimes people wonder why a guy who makes a six figure salary will still bother to fill out a form for a free razor, or sign up for a credit card for the $100+ bonus. Well, for one thing it’s a habit leftover from making $15,000 per year. Back then, adding anywhere from $2,000-$5,000 a year to my annual income from various shenanigans was a huge benefit. It allowed me to enjoy niceties like not eating spaghetti three times a week and booking flights to visit my girlfriend (while still paying down student loans).

In this way, I started to correlate little savings with specific things. $5 meant a plate at the Indian food cart or a loaded burrito. So $100 wasn’t just an amorphous $100 to be deposited into a bank and forgotten, it was 20 meals. I’ll do XX for a month of naan & curry!

By extension, creating additional freelance income of $1,000 to me meant a flight + hotel to a new and strange spot in the world I hadn’t been before. For another person, they might think in terms of Lucky jeans, automotive gear, or ski lift tickets. I know this is a consumeristic form of thinking, but you don’t have to spend all the money you make, nor do you have to save all the money you make.

Do you have a form of motivational currency? Or is cash king?

I didn’t bother scanning, but it looks just like this:

MOM & POP INDIAN CUISINE $26.44

FOOD/BEVERAGE $22.44
TIP $4.00

A nifty feature, I wonder why others don’t do this as well. However, I am still sticking with the Citi Forward for the 3.5% cash back.

Credit Card Debt
I have taken money from credit cards at 0% APR and placed it into online savings accounts, bank CDs, or savings bonds that earn 4-5% interest (much less recently), and keeping the difference as profit. I even put together a series of step-by-step posts on how to make money off of credit cards in this way. However, given the current lack of great no fee 0% APR balance transfer offers, I am mostly waiting on existing offers to end. My credit score remains high enough that I haven’t seen any negative actions.

Retirement and Brokerage accounts
Markets most went sideways this past month. 401k contributions are still going regularly, and I want to make my 2009 non-deductible IRA contributions soon. I still think the best thing to do is to keep investing regularly, although it is quite boring to watch.

Cash Savings and Emergency Funds
We still have a year’s worth of expenses in our emergency fund, and it is still growing. Possible uses for extra cash might include capital improvements to the house, including a solar hot-water system to reduce electricity bills, or a photovoltaic system to possibly eliminate them! I love the idea of selling electricity back to the city.

Home Equity
Using four different internet valuation tools - Zillow, Cyberhomes, Coldwell Banker, and Bank of America (old version) - I took the average and took off 5% to be conservative and 6% for real estate agent commissions.

We remain “underwater”, with our outstanding mortgage balance greater than what we probably would net after selling our home. Home equity variations continue to dwarf all other activity, which is somewhat annoying since it’s not that important. Just gotta shrink that mortgage!

What can you do with 25,000 points? You can get a check for $250, a credit towards a flight purchase of $312.50 (online booking free, but $20 fee via phone), or 25,000 frequent flier miles with a 1:1 point transfer. The exact participating airlines are unknown. Info taken from their benefits guide.

Rewards program quality? At 1 point per $1 spent with no special bonus categories, and only a 20% bonus for $50,000 in annual spending, this card is not worth a $95 annual fee. I’d sign-up, redeem the points for a quick and easy $250, and then cancel the card within the first year.

Instead, get a 1:1 frequent flier point transfer and 1.25 miles per $1 spent with the cheaper Starwood American Express card (which also has their own 25,000 Starpoint sign-up bonus).

Sign-Up Bonus

New cardholders get 6,000 bonus ThankYou points after $50 in purchases made within 3 months. In addition, you get another 5,000 points for choosing paperless statements within 3 months.

The 11,000 bonus ThankYou points showed up promptly. I signed up for paperless statements immediately, and received the 5,000 points on my very first statement. I made the required $50 in purchases during the first month (showed up on the first statement), and received the 6,000 points on my second statement.

5x ThankYou Points

This card works off the same ThankYou points system as many other Citibank cards. 10,000 points = $100 gift card at stores like Sears, Macy’s, Staples, Old Navy, Gap, etc. 12,700 points = $100 towards a student loan or mortgage payment. 14,000 points = $100 prepaid Visa credit card. 14,500 points = $100 statement credit.

What makes this card unique is that you get 5 points for every $1 you spend on books, movies, music, and at restaurants. On everything else, you get the plain vanilla 1 reward point for every $1 spent. No annual fee.

5x Rewards at Restaurants
Again, at 1 penny per point with gift cards, getting 5x points is like getting 5% back when eating out. Even if you convert to straight cash, that’s still 3.45% cash back at restaurants (5/1.45). Or 3.57% back if you are okay with prepaid Visa card, which I am since they are usable anywhere that takes credit cards.

I have gotten my 5x rewards at fast food restaurants (McDonald’s), chain sit-down restaurants (Chili’s, etc), and also mom-and-pop places.

5x Rewards at Amazon.com
I can also officially confirm that Amazon.com is considered a bookstore. This is true even if your entire purchase (or any of it) did not contain books. I made one purchase with books, and one with only electronics, and got 5x points for both. So you can indeed get 3.45% cash back at Amazon, or 5% back in the form of gift cards.

The 5x points show up separately under the “Bonus Points by Category Earned” on your online statement:

I can also confirm it works at Regal movie theaters. I have this card stored online at my Amazon account so I don’t forget, and it’s in my wallet marked for restaurants only. Makes it easy to track my dining-out budget!

I did this after finding $10 “bottle buddies” at a dog store, and have already gone through three of these things in a little over a week. Removing the cap and ring helps avoid a choking hazard.

Old Three-Legged Stool of Retirement

Traditionally, the components of the three-legged stool of retirement have been presented as Social Security benefits, Pensions, and Personal Savings (401k, IRA, and other assets).

image via Michigan.gov

This is partially supported by data from the Social Security Administration:

image via Pbs.org

The Qualified Retirement Plans slice combines pensions, 401ks, and IRAs together, making it hard to see the breakdown. The Other Assets include income from other investments like capital gains or dividends from taxable accounts and real estate. We observe that a quarter of all income in retirement is still from working for a paycheck.

Shaping Your Own Retirement Legs

These are just averages, and each of us will have their own path to retirement. If you’re planning on retiring early, you won’t have Social Security yet. For people born after 1960, the full retirement age for benefits is already 67, and expect it to rise even further the younger you are. I think some form of SS will still be around when I’m 70, but who knows.

1. Flexible, reliable, part-time income
We already saw that lots of people over 65 still work. Even though I want financial independence early, I’ve also come to realize that I’ll never stop working. Ask yourself what are you really going to do in retirement? In addition, I think it would be stressful to stare at a big pile of cash and think to myself - “Crap, I hope this lasts for 30+ years!” Maintaining a part-time job and the related skills would help my cashflow, and also ensure that I could return to the workforce if disaster strikes.

I would want a part-time job that could provide some socialization and a sense of improving your community or helping others. Most of my imagined jobs involve teaching, coaching, sporadic technical consulting, or something tourism-related. It can’t be 9-5, and I’d want to be able to take months off at a time. This won’t be easy to find, so I need to start developing more “fun” skills as well as personal relationships now.

2. Personal Savings: Accumulate 30 times annual (non-housing) expenses
Without a pension or Social Security, you’ll need to live off your own savings. If you invest in a balanced portfolio of 60% stocks and 40% bonds, studies have estimated that you can have a “safe withdrawal rates” of about 4% per year. By being a bit more conservative than that, this means accumulating 30 times your annual expenses.

For example, if your annual expenses are $30,000, then you need to save $900,000. This is a very general rule of thumb. Taxes are tricky, but if your income is only $30,000 per year, you won’t be paying very much income tax. Check out the historical effective tax rate over a past 25 year timespan:

image via krusekronicle.typepad.com

For reference in 1995, to be in the bottom 50% (safely in Q1/Q2) your adjusted gross income had to be under $31,000. And this even includes payroll taxes of about 9%, which you won’t have to pay on investment income. The result: very low taxes (possibly under 5%) if you keep your expenses down! Which brings me to…

3. A Paid Off House
I don’t think everyone needs to own a home. However, I happen to enjoy many of the intangibles of owning a home, I love my house and neighborhood, and plan on staying here a while. The cost of this leg can vary widely, from a $1,900 house in Detroit to… where I live, so choose where you want to live carefully.

Financially, owning a home protects you from future inflation and rising rents. You are still subject to property taxes and maintenance costs.

In addition, not having to pay rent means you need less income from savings, reducing your needed nest egg in #2 above. You also pay less taxes. Withdrawing additional money from an IRA, for example, will mean subjecting them to your marginal tax rate, which could be 25% or higher. So to pay $750 in rent, you’d have to withdraw $1,000. Not very efficient.

So there, you have it, my three-legged stool. Yours may be very different - you may like renting, have a pension, own investment property, or have some other sources of income. I still worry about health insurance, but I’m still hopeful that some positive health care reform will occur that will create affordable health insurance for individuals under 65 not covered by an employer group plan.

* You can read more about the last two legs in my related post A Quick & Dirty Plan To Reach Financial Freedom.

Here’s the quick summary. City Supervisor Chris Daly introduced legislation to add the following additional tenant “protections”:

• Landlords cannot raise the rent above 33% of tenant’s income. An alternative amendment restrict this to situations where the tenant has a “hardship” - defined as being unemployed, having wages cut, or living on a fixed income and receiving a cost of living increase.
• Allows tenants to add roommates other than family to help pay rent, even if explicitly forbidden in the rental contract.

My take. I think this going too far, and I am glad the mayor seems to agree and will veto it. Already 88% of rental units in San Francisco are subject to rent control, with annual rent increases being capped at an average of 2% per year. Now a landlord must charge rent based on a person’s future income? How can they control that? And then tenants can bring in whomever they want as additional roommates, also creating more wear and tear on the place?

This is different from having the government provide unemployment benefits, or even “bailouts”. This is forcing individuals to directly subsidize other individuals arbitrarily. Imagine being a cabinet maker and being forced to accept a 50% discount to any customer who lost their job recently, regardless of your own costs or financial needs. I echo the concerns of this editorial:

We all like the idea of businesspeople doing the benevolent thing when their customers are hurting, but it is not fair for a public entity to force such behavior on a private one.

Am I missing something here? Let me know in the comments.

OptionsHouse Brokerage - $2.95 Stock Trades
Another new discount online brokerage with cheap trades, but actually won #1 in Trade Experience in recent Barron’s Broker Survey, beating out E-Trade. Offers flat-rate pricing at $2.95 for stock trades regardless of number of shares, and $9.95 flat for options (no per-contract fee). $1,000 to open, $100 balance needed to trade. Anyone try them?

New research sheds light on the habits of successful savers
Includes a lot of expected characteristics, but worth a skim to see how you compare.

AMC Theatres A.M. Cinema
“A.M.Cinema, a new program providing early-morning guests the opportunity to see first-run movies at the best ticket price of the day. The program invites moviegoers to visit their local AMC theatre before noon Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays and holidays to enjoy ticket prices of $4, $5 or $6 depending on the theatre and market.”

F*** my job, Selling Everything!
Found in the Best of Craigslist section. Have you ever had the urge to simply sell everything you own, cash out your investments, quit your job, and just travel the world until the money runs out? This guy did.

Credit Bailout: Issuers Slashing Card Balances
People are haggling directly with credit card companies to lower their amount owed. However, the articles neglects to go into detail about the impact on credit scores. I suspect that there will still be significant damage to your credit if you “settle” in this way.

Tuesday 10: Good stuff from other personal finance blogs

• How much do people spend on clothes by Jim at FreeBy50
• Emotional Barriers to Negotiating and Haggling by Flexo at Consumerism Commentary
• My IRA asset allocation at GreenPandaTreehouse
• Things You Own End Up Owning You by David at MyTwoDollars
• On Spending Consciously by Patrick at Cash Money Life
• Pay attention to your money by Single Ma at Fabulous Financials
• Retired at 31: An Early Retirement Story by FrugalTrader at Million Dollar Journey
• Tax Deductible Mortgages in Canada by Mr. Cheap at FourPillars
• Mid Year Financial Checkup by Madison at MyDollarPlan
• Fun Fund Sell-o-Meter by J at BudgetsAreSexy

There are plenty of “fake” credit scores out there, but there is no way to get your real FICO scores anywhere but myFico.com. If you must order your score, use the promotional code CPPSAVINGS to get 20% off all credit report and monitoring services orders. It’s the best coupon I found that worked:

Whenever you do buy a score, I would recommend trying to correlate your score and the current information on your report. Then you can start to learn beyond the generic rules they spit out, and see how changes really affect your score. I’ve applied for 12 credit cards and canceled 5 with almost no affect to my scores - despite all the “rules” - only to have a huge balance on my mom’s credit card (with me as authorized user) show up and drop it by 30 points.

An possibly cheaper alternative is to sign up for a free 30-day trial of Scorewatch, which includes two free Equifax scores and reports. Just remember to cancel as soon as you decide you don’t need it anymore.

* Experian no longer allows Fair Isaac to sell FICO scores to consumers at all (even though lenders still buy and use them). But they’ll happily charge you money for their own attempt at a credit score.

First, a recap of the post. Basically, a guy called “TC” has the idea of comparing S&P 500 returns vs. that of 6-month CDs. I’ll ignore the fact that this has been done many times already. But wait! He comes up with a startling conclusion. For long periods of time, the S&P 500 has actually lagged or been about equal to the returns of safe and steady 6-month CDs. (!!!) His graph:

Keeping my parents in mind, you’re probably wondering how someone did by simply investing in 6 month CDs. The answer is for any holding period of less than 25 years, a stock market investor who made regular and equal contributions has actually underperformed a CD investor! Yes, you read that right for time periods of 1 – 20 years a CD investor outperformed the stock market by 1.6 to 20.1 annual percentage points.

Additionally, if one extends the time window to 50 years (clearly “long term”) CDs again have outperformed the stock market by 0.3 annual percentage points. Even when one extends out the time period to the full 59+ years (the start of the S&P 500 index); the stock market has outperformed short-term CDs by a mere 0.2 annual percentage points – not much of an equity premium.

The sky is falling! Oh wait, there’s a little fine print.

TC is ignoring dividends

Let’s bold that. The analysis and data above completely ignores the dividend return of the S&P 500. This is like buying an investment property and ignoring the rent payments coming in. What? There are checks coming in every month from the tenants? Nah, let’s not cash those.

Let’s take a look at the historical dividend yield of the S&P 500, courtesy of Bespoke Investments:

For the periods compared above, the a true owner of the S&P 500 has earned 2-6% annually from dividends alone, with a long-term average of 3-4%. Now, if you add another 3-4% to the analysis above, you see again the long-term equity premium. Instead of 8% vs. 8%, it’d be more like 12% vs. 8%. That’s an enormous difference.

(I also wonder where TC got his/her data for historical 6-month CD rates. Are these averages, since every bank offers vastly different rates, and doesn’t report them to a central bureau? How does one get the average 6-month CD rate across the country in 1959? Usually studies like this use 6-month US Treasury Bill rates instead, as the data is reliable and widely-accepted.)

Massive Conflict of Interest?
Another argument given as to why buy-and-hold is bad is because there is a conflict of interest between investment advisors and their clients, as they have a “vested interest in keeping clients 100% invested 100% of the time, even if they know it is wrong.”

Actually, brokers get paid the more you trade than anything else. They earn money based on total assets, but a huge chunk is from commissions. This means convincing you to buy stocks when they’re hot (tech stocks)…. and then sell them (cash!)… and then buy others (mortgage-backed securites)…. and then sell them (cash!)… and then buy new ones. Like right now, they’ll happily sell you gold or some non-scary bond funds!

True buy-and-hold means very little trading. At Vanguard, I buy-and-hold(-and rebalance) for a total cost of about 0.20% of assets annually. That’s $20 a year per $10,000 invested. Guess what the average expense ratio of a money market fund is? According to Lipper Inc., it was 0.60% at the end of 2007. The Vanguard Prime Money Market fund (VMMXX) has an expense ratio of 0.28%. The S&P 500 fund (VFINX) charges 0.18%. Even at Vanguard, they actually get less money from me if I hold stocks instead of cash.

Same Old Story
In any case, I grow weary. Bonds have outperformed Stocks both recently and other times in the past, even if people ignored it. This is why investors need to have a balance of both stocks and bonds/cash, not just 100% one or the other. If you needed the money soon, then you should have been at the most 60/40 in stocks/bonds, if not even more conservative. In that case, your portfolio would have dropped about 15% over the last couple of years up until today, and you’d be worried but not broke.

If you use the correct numbers (ahem), stocks still have higher historical returns over extended periods, with many rocky patches. We balance this knowledge with the also-historically steadier but lower returns of bonds and cash. That’s really about it. As for the future, nobody knows, as much as they’d like to suggest they do.

But then I found the catch. You need to have $500,000 invested at Vanguard to even be eligible for the account. Even at $500,000-$999,999 in assets, you have to pay a $30 annual fee for the privilege of getting what is basically a checking account, and you must pay $4.95 per month for Online Billpay service. No ATM refunds either (free at PNC banks only).

Vanguard seems to have an overall policy of grudgingly offering services that their customers ask for, but only if the less-wealthy are willing to pay a premium. I feel like they don’t want to stray from their basic roots of low-cost mutual funds, or maybe they just don’t want the hassle, but their competitors are leaving them behind.

Checking account features. For example, I can get the brokerage + checkwriting combo for free at Fidelity or Schwab, with no minimum balance requirements and ATM rebates. I don’t know about Chuck, but Fidelity has as-good if not better customer service reps than Vanguard.

Commission costs. The Vanguard Brokerage Services (VBS) account still charges $25 for an online trade + a $30 annual fee if you have less than $100,000 invested. Contrast that with 100+ free trades annually at only $25,000 in assets at both Zecco and Wellstrade.

I guess I’ll have to wait until I have a million dollars to get free checking at Vanguard. Doesn’t that just sound odd?

In addition, this card still offers a sign-up bonus of 12,000 Miles. You get 1,000 Miles each month you make a purchase for 12 months. A mindless way to get the points is to sign the card up for automatic billing of your cell phone bill (or similar bill).

Discover Miles Redemption Options

However, the Miles you earn with this card are not affiliated with any airline. So what’s one of these special Miles worth? The wording is very vague, and not until you already have the card do you get the details. So here they are…

The most efficient way to redeem is for travel credit. You can redeem 10,000 Miles for a $100 cash credit towards any travel purchase (airfare, hotel, car rental, cruise) from any vendor or website. Now that I’ve actually done the redemption with my Hotwire purchase, I am happy to report that it was hassle-free.

You simply charge the purchase to your card, and request the credit online. The system automatically checks that you have a travel purchase, and approves the request. In a few business days the $100 shows up in your account:

Other redemption options
The alternatives are not that great. If you travel at all, I would wait and go with the travel credit.

• Gift cards. 7,000 Miles gets you $50 gift card at stores such as Macy’s, Gap, or Shell gas stations. You can also redeem 4,000 miles for a $25 gift card.
• Cash. 5,000 Miles gets you $25 deposited into your bank account.

Double Miles & Other Promos
For most purchases, you get 1 Mile per dollar spent. The default feature of the card is that you get 2 Miles per dollar on the first $3,000 in travel and restaurant purchases each year. There is also a rotating category each month. For example, you get double miles on up to $500 in purchases at gas stations throughout June and July.

Even with the double miles here and there, this is not a top rewards card. However, you can still extract $100+ out of it with no annual fee, plus you get 0% interest for 6 months.

Here are additional credit cards with sign-up bonuses of $100 or more.

Whenever I’m not traveling on the company dime, I usually run through a checklist to find the lowest price on hotel stays. Let’s say you’re like me and need to find a room in New York City for a few nights, checking in August 30th. I’d like to stay somewhere near Times Square in Manhattan, close to all the sights and action. I’m also leaning towards something reliable and not bargain basement - this is NYC and I don’t want a Hotel Carter experience involving bed bugs, roaches, and urine smells. (Note this for later: At their website, they charge $99 a night.)

1. Check the hotel’s direct website.
If you have some favorite chains due to corporate agreements or loyalty points, then this narrows your search down and you can try and check directly with their website. For example, there is Hilton.com, IHG.com, and StarwoodHotels.com for Sheraton/Westin/W Hotels. Here are some quotes (all prices not including taxes):

Hilton Times Square, $195
Hilton New York, $169
W NY Times Square, $272
Westin NY Times Square, $232
Sheraton Manhattan Times Square, $189
Four Points Midtown, $157

This gives me a benchmark to work from. Another benefit here is that they usually have some form of “Best Rate Guarantee”. Starwood will beat a competing vendor’s price by either 10% or give you 2,000 Starpoints.

2. Try to use loyalty program points.
An extension of the above, at times it is better to redeem your points, or some combination of cash and points. For example, the Westin NY Times Square would only cost 12,000 Starpoints per night, or 48,000 points for 5 nights (avg. 9,600/night). Keep in mind the point redemption even covers taxes, which would turn the $232 listed above to $268 per night. Too bad I’m low on Starpoints after visiting Madrid.

You can earn Starpoints faster and get up to 25,000 bonus Starpoints with the Starwood co-branded American Express card.

3. Use the travel search engines. Expedia, Kayak, Hotels.com, etc.
You know the drill. Actually, you can search most of these all at once through Kayak.com. Sometimes one site like Expedia may have special rates for a block of rooms that aren’t available on other sites.

From Kayak, I note that the prices for the Starwood and Hilton hotels were basically the same. After sorting by price, I see that the Holiday Inn NYC is slightly cheaper at $160/night + taxes. A bit farther away in Midtown East there is the DoubleTree Metropolitan at $149. Not too bad. Oh look, Hotel Carter is discounted at $67. Too bad it doesn’t include the cost of burning your clothes afterwards!

4. Use opaque sites like Hotwire and Priceline.
Finally, there are what are called “opaque” travel sites, because you don’t know the name of the hotel until you’ve paid for the non-refundable room. You must decide only based on the star quality rating and general neighborhood of the hotel, which means you can’t look up reviews easily either. Priceline is done using a reverse auction format, while Hotwire just gives you the price.

On Hotwire, I find that I can get 2-star hotel (examples given are Comfort Inn, La Quinta, Days Inn) for $93+tax ($112 total) in a large and vague area that basically covers everything south of Central Park.

5. Using database sites to reverse engineer the hotel information. Sites like BiddingForTravel and BetterBidding gather information from successful purchasers to remove some of the mystery.

For example, what exactly might be a 3.5 star hotel in the Midtown area? Does Hotwire call the Westin Time Square 4 stars, or 3.5 stars, or 4.5 stars? What if Priceline disagrees? What one site calls Midtown West might be Midtown Central to another.

Well, here is a list of hotels in NYC that Hotwire and Priceline has sold rooms for, complete with star rating and neighborhood. From this list, the only 2* in Central Park listed is WooGo Lincoln Center. Of course this might not be the hotel you end up with, but it is a good possibility and you get a sense of quality (mixed reviews).

In addition, you can find a list of winning bids posted by users, and BetterBidding even has a calendar for easy searching. Here are the applicable ones for my situation:

Hotwire Winning Bids
4*, Central Park, Empire Hotel, $139
3.5*, Midtown Central, Sheraton Times Square, $119
3.5*, Midtown East, Millennium UN, $116

Priceline Winning Bids
4*, Midtown Central, Sheraton NY Towers, $125
4*, Midtown West, Sheraton NY Towers, $115, $110, $126
4*, Times Square, Westin TS, $169

Putting things together, if Hotwire is offering me a 3.5* hotel in Midtown Central on these dates, it is most likely be the Sheraton Times Square. Or, in the same price range, I could likely get the Sheraton NY Towers. After reading some reviews, I chose the Times Square location. The prices keep fluctuating, but when I was searching it was at $113. That’s a pretty good price for a solid hotel.

To be the most aggressive, I would go onto Priceline and bid about 20% below the Hotwire price for a 3.5* hotel in the Times Square region, say $95. I don’t want to bid too low, because each time I get rejected, I must change a search parameter (star rating, neighborhood) to bid again. Also, I run the risk of getting another 3.5* hotel that I don’t like as much.

So I held my breath, used Hotwire… and got it. Whew! In the end, I got what I wanted at 40% off the “guaranteed” low price, $113 vs. $189 per night at the Sheraton Times Square.. Over few nights, that’s hundreds of dollars in savings.

To think, if you did no research, you might end up with the Hotel Carter for $99/night! If you have tips to improve this process, please leave a comment below! I know I could try hostels or even couchsurfing and such, but that’s not what I was looking for on this trip.

Put simply, ETFs are essentially mutual funds that trade like stocks. (Note the ticker symbols included above.) Hence the name Exchange Traded Funds! You tend to get lower annual expense ratios than mutual funds, but you must also pay a stock commission on each and every trade. They also tend be better in taxable accounts because they often don’t shed as many capital gains. Since there are now a million types of ETFs out there, it’s good to remind everyone about the great portfolio building blocks out there.

If you trade large amounts at a time or have cheap enough trades, then ETFs can be a good option. Otherwise, even $10 a trade can really add up. If you have $25,000 of total stock value, you can move your account to Zecco Trading for 10 free trades per month, or to WellsTrade (by Wells Fargo) for 100 free trades per year (special PMA checking account required).

Done this way, the total cost of this portfolio would be under $20 a year for every $10,000 invested. Less money in a broker’s or manager’s pocket means more for you.

* Update: Here are 8 more model portfolios that you can replicate with ETFs these days.

First, I started with IRS Pub. 936, Home Mortgage Interest Deduction. There is the basic definition of a “qualified” home:

For you to take a home mortgage interest deduction, your debt must be secured by a qualified home. This means your main home or your second home. A home includes a house, condominium, cooperative, mobile home, house trailer, boat, or similar property that has sleeping, cooking, and toilet facilities.

Then there is the question of how much you live in the second home:

Second home rented out. If you have a second home and rent it out part of the year, you also must use it as a home during the year for it to be a qualified home. You must use this home more than 14 days or more than 10% of the number of days during the year that the home is rented at a fair rental, whichever is longer. If you do not use the home long enough, it is considered rental property and not a second home. For information on residential rental property, see Publication 527.

If you live in it enough, it is treated as a “vacation” property and you can deduct the mortgage interest. In general, you are limited to the interest paid on the qualified loan limit of $1,100,000 for “home acquisition debt” combined for both first and second houses.

However, for a full-time rental, we are led to IRS Pub. 527, Residential Rental Property, which states:

Generally, the expenses of renting your property, such as maintenance, insurance, taxes, and interest, can be deducted from your rental income.

Interest expense. You can deduct mortgage interest you pay on your rental property. Chapter 4 of Publication 535 explains mortgage interest in detail.

Okay, now I’m off to IRS Pub. 535, Business Expenses, specifically the section on Interest.

You can generally deduct as a business expense all interest you pay or accrue during the tax year on debts related to your trade or business. Interest relates to your trade or business if you use the proceeds of the loan for a trade or business expense. It does not matter what type of property secures the loan. You can deduct interest on a debt only if you meet all the following requirements.

* You are legally liable for that debt.
* Both you and the lender intend that the debt be repaid.
* You and the lender have a true debtor-creditor relationship.

There are special rules for the capitalization of interest if you actually build the home yourself.

Summary
I am not a tax professional, but from reading the above publications, it appears that mortgage interest on a 100% rental home is not tax-deductible as an itemized deduction as your primary house may be.

However, chances are that it is an eligible expense that can offset your rental income and still reduce your tax burden in a similar manner. If you made $10,000 in annual rental income but paid $8,000 in mortgage interest, and ignoring other factors like depreciation, you’d only owe income taxes on the difference of $2,000. (Dealing with writing-off rental losses is for another post.) The amount paid that lowers your loan principal is not an eligible expense.

As long as you have adequate rental income, this would make the mortgage interest as an expense better than just an itemized deduction, since everyone gets the standard deduction. For 2009, the standard deduction is $5,700 for single filers, and $11,400 for married filing jointly. Only total itemized deductions above that amount would provide added savings.

The Payout
For the most part, you get 5-30 points for visiting websites that pay MyPoints an advertising fee. Many of them come by e-mail (BonusMail), so I would recommend either adding a special filter that automatically moves emails from MyPoints to a separate folder, or using a separate free e-mail for this program. You often get bonus points for signing up for e-mail newsletters or registering as a member, so having a separate e-mail would be best in that regard.

You can also earn points by taking surveys, playing flash games, using specific grocery coupons, using their Search toolbar, shopping through their online mall portal, and other activities. I primarily just stick to the e-mails, and run through them in batches when I’m waiting for some process to run.

As for redemption options, you can swap the points for the usual variety of gift cards - Barnes & Noble, Macy’s, CVS Pharmacy, etc. I usually just stick to Amazon.com since they are the easiest to use. 3,750 points = $25 Amazon.com gift card. Again, you’re not going to get rich doing this, but the points don’t expire as long as you have any activity within 12 months. Like today, I noticed that I was at 3,600 points and picked up another 150 in about 15 minutes so I could cash out.

Last month, the FDIC issued rules capping the rates troubled banks can pay on deposits — an edict that didn’t apply to Ally Bank because it is well capitalized.

The letter requires Ally to report to the agency on its deposit rates and how they compare with other banks whenever it seeks to tap funds under a federal debt guarantee program.

So they are confirmed to be well-capitalized, but they are still under scrutiny. It is better to be under-capitalized and offer horrible interest rates? Either way, another round of slight drops this week:

Ally Bank rate updates
The 12-month CD is now 2.25% APY as of 7/3/09. The Online Savings Account is now 2.00% APY. There are no monthly fees and no minimum balances for any of these products.

The best bet still seems to be their No-Penalty 9-month CD at 2.05% APY as of 7/3/09, which remains a top rate for 9-month CDs despite the slight drop from 2.30% yesterday. Why not lock in a good yield for now, and you can still get out with no fees if rates rise.

CNN Money recently listed 5 new tools for homebuyers, one of which was InvestorLoft.com. At first glance, it looks like a Zillow for investment properties.

I decided to run a quick search using their PropScout tool for an investment property in California for under $300,000. I sorted by cashflow, as I that would be a primary requirement were I ever to get into a rental property. One of the top results was a little ski chalet in South Lake Tahoe for $269,000. With a estimated positive cashflow of over $50,000 per year, I was starting to think InvestorLoft was in serious “Beta”, but decided to keep looking further. Besides, I’ve spent a good deal of time up there, so I was intrigued. Could I swing a nice little ski cabin for myself?

Cashflow Breakdown: InvestorLoft vs. My Numbers

You have to register (free) to see details, but here is the property link. Click on the “View Financials” tab to see the breakdown.

Expenses
InvestorLoft’s default mortgage numbers have you putting 20% down, and financing the remaining 80% with an interest-only loan. I’d probably go with a 30-year fixed fully-amortized loan, and these days investment property have much higher interest rates. At 20% down and 7% interest, I got $1,400 for an estimated mortgage payment.

This chalet is really a townhouse, so it comes with HOA fees. Property management costs look to be estimated at 10% of gross rent, although as you’ll see below I don’t agree. No maintenance costs were estimated, but as a vacation rental with high turnover, I put in $200 per month. Here are the final numbers side-by-side:

Income
Here’s where that crazy cashflow number comes from: The expected monthly rent was $6,700 a month. (This is also why the property management cost above was $670 a month.) “Rental estimates based on 26 comparable rental listings with matching number of bedrooms and size in a 1.5 mile radius. ” Hmmm. First of all, there’s no way a month-to-month tenant would pay $6,700 a month for this wood shack. It has to be a vacation rental, and I can only guess that they are assuming 100% occupancy.

For some comparisons, I looked up similar properties at VRBO.com - Vacation Rentals by Owner. This chalet does not have the nicest interior, but the location is above average and is near the main highway.

Roughly, it would seem like I could charge $100 a night (taxes not included) for this chalet during May-November, along with a $75 cleaning fee per stay. It could go up to $150 a night during peak ski season (December-April). Occupancy rates would have to be a conservative 50% during the offseason and 75% during peak season. If I assume that I break even on the cleaning fees, that would work out to an average monthly rental income of $2280.

(I wasn’t quite sure how much a property manager would charge for managing a vacation property with people coming and going, especially if bookings were made online, so I estimated it around 20% of gross rent.)

Results
Too bad, it looks like I’m not going to get rich by buying this chalet. The InvestorLoft estimated monthly cashflow was a positive $4,094 a month, while my own rough numbers have me about $200 a month in the hole. I know I am being conservative in some areas, but I think that’s how you have to do it, especially for something optional like a vacation rental. The numbers actually aren’t horrible, though, it might warrant some more investigation…

InvestorLoft looks to be another one of those internet tools that you’re happy exists because you’ll play with it, but you can’t rely on them as there is still plenty of room for improvement.

Here’s an animated video about the topic from IBRinfo.org:

Under IBR, most borrowers will have a monthly payment that is less than 10% of gross income. This includes single borrowers with less than $50,000 in income and married borrowers with two children who have less than $100,000 in income. This is only available to federal student loan programs, so those with private student loans are not eligible.

An example from this USA Today article:

Suppose you have $30,000 in student loans, and you estimate that your 2009 income will be $25,000. Assuming your loans have a fixed interest rate of 6.8%, your monthly payment under the income-based repayment program would be $110, vs. $345 under a standard 10-year repayment plan. [...] If your income rises in the future, your payments will, too. [...] However, any amount you owe after 25 years of qualifying payments will be forgiven.

To see if you qualify for a lower payment, enter your info into this IBR qualification calculator. To enroll, you’ll have to contact your lender directly about income-based repayment once it become available July 1st, 2009.

If you use Microsoft Money to manage your finances, you should know that Microsoft will no longer be selling MS Money after June 30th, 2009. From the Microsoft product page:

With banks, brokerage firms and Web sites now providing a range of options for managing personal finances, the consumer need for Microsoft Money Plus has changed. After suspending annual updates of Money Plus in 2008, Microsoft is announcing today that we will no longer offer Microsoft Money Plus for purchase after June 30, 2009.

But more importantly, your online services will also be discontinued soon. This means stock and mutual fund quotes, tax rate updates, and banking services like their billpay.

For Money Plus Deluxe, Premium and Home & Business customers, online services expire two years after initial activation or Jan. 31, 2011, whichever is earlier; for Money Plus Essentials it is one year after activation or Jan. 31, 2011, whichever is earlier. You can verify your expiration date in Money Plus by selecting Help / About Microsoft Money; it appears to the right of the serial number.

Ditched by Money, but Quicken Wants You
I suppose that this means Intuit wins the desktop personal finance software war. Indeed, it looks like Microsoft has really given up, as their last step is to make it easy for users to move to Quicken.

We’re working closely with Microsoft to develop an easy way for Money users to transfer data into Quicken desktop products. We’re assessing how we can make this capability a reality in conjunction with the release of Quicken 2010 in the fall.

An Intuit representative e-mailed me saying that they are working quickly on making a conversion file that would seamlessly move data from Money to Quicken.

In the meantime, Quicken is directly targeting the Money orphans by offering up to a $50 discount on Quicken products until the end of June: $20 off Quicken Deluxe, $30 off Quicken Premier and Home & Business, and $50 off Quicken Rental Property Manager.

Free Quicken Online & Others
But wait, MS Money says the primary reason they shut down is that many banks and brokerages are offering free aggregation services which provide a similar service. Indeed, there are also standalone aggregation sites like Yodlee, Mint, and Geezeo. And if you want a free desktop finance software with double-entry accounting, there is the open-source GnuCash, though it certainly lacks some polish.

But wait, why didn’t they just do their own online version? Intuit introduced Quicken Online, which is now free and tries to add a little Quicken flavor to the usual aggregation model. More competition would have been good. I guess they spent all their energy on Bing.

Pop Quiz
The full quiz and explanation is here. But the very core of the argument can be summed up below. Assuming that both cars are driven 100 miles per week:

Without breaking out the calculator, you might think that having 50 mpg and 10 mpg together might average out to about 30 mpg, beating out the two 20 mpg cars. The problem is that using miles per gallon is not intuitive. Why?

Miles per gallon (MPG) is more useful for things like calculating the range of your vehicle.

Gallons per mile (GPM) would be better for estimating the actual cost of driving your car, since gallons is directly proportional to dollars spent.

Okay, a little math. Getting 10 miles per gallon is the same as saying you use 10 gallons every 100 miles. 20 mpg means 5 gallons every 100 miles. 50 mpg means 2 gallons every 100 miles. So in one week, the Option 1 uses 10 gallons per week. Option 2 uses 12 gallons per week. Option 1 wins!

If you remember gallons = $$, this chart below shows (also from MPG Illusion), the savings you get from going from 10 mpg to 20 mpg is a lot greater than going from 30 mpg to 40 mpg. In fact, going from 16 to 20 mpg can save as much gas as the shift from 31 to 50 mpg.

Higher mpg numbers are still better, but the benefit is diminishing. Going for the hybrid might get you the most “green” points, but you might be getting most of the benefit for a lot less money by simply switching to a more affordable car with a decent mpg bump. Is it almost used Honda Fit time? Run the numbers for yourself at this GPM calculator.

(Does this make the “Cash for Clunkers” program more palatable? I don’t know, they could still raise the minimum improvement amounts.)

It’s not finalized or sent to the President yet (don’t buy anything yet!), so there is still room for changes. However, here are the requirements in the House Bill:

Old Trade-In Vehicle Requirements

• Must be in drivable condition.
• Have been continuously insured to the same owner for at least one year immediately prior to trade-in. (You can’t just buy a $500 beater for the $4,500 voucher)
• Manufactured in model year 1984 or later. (mostly due to EPA mpg data not going back that far), and
• Have a combined fuel economy of 18 mpg or less. You can find your car’s combined EPA fuel economy at FuelEconomy.gov.

If you are trading in a “Work Truck”, defined as having a 8,500-10,000 pounds GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating), then your vehicle must be from model year 2001 or older.

Obviously, another common sense requirement would be that your car should be worth less than the $3,500 or $4,500 you qualify for, or else you could simply sell it yourself instead of going for the voucher.

Let’s check out our cars:

1995 Nissan Maxima
The first car I ever owned, which came to me in excellent condition in 2000. Besides the usual oil changes and stuff, I’ve replaced the starter and 3 out of the 4 power windows motors (annoying common flaw in this model). It is nearly 15 years old now and runs great. Edmunds says my car is worth about $2,500 (sold to a private party). $4,500 for it might tempt me.

My combined fuel economy is 21 mpg. Not quite gas-guzzly enough.

2002 Pontiac Grand Prix
Yes, I have a sad little orphan Pontiac. But I took advantage of its horrendous resale value and picked it up when it came off-lease at 3 years old at my workplace for cheap. The interior is really cheap-feeling, but you know what, it hasn’t run into any mechanical problems at all. The only thing that broke so far was a plastic air conditioner knob.

Edmunds says it is now worth about $5,000 Private Party, which means has depreciated less than $1,000 per year since purchase. My combined fuel economy is 21 mpg.

So I guess neither of our cars qualify, which makes me think that most “beater” cars won’t either. Think of the VWs, Hondas, and Toyotas out there. A 1985 Honda Civic gets over 30 miles per gallon! This law is mostly for SUV and truck owners, and you can qualify for a voucher with as little as 1 mpg improvement (for large trucks) to 4 mpg (for passenger cars). I don’t quite get it.

Indeed, just because you qualify, doesn’t mean you should necessarily go for it. You’ll get some fuel cost savings, but unless you pay cash you’ll also have a monthly auto loan payment. A new car also has higher insurance rates, and you’ll have to carry collision/comprehensive coverage.