…there is an emerging ‘hipster’ scene

Myanmar/Burma is more than just Fishermen on Inle Lake and Pagodas. In fact these are now for the most part just a tourist attraction, with ‘fake’ fishermen fighting for your photos and long necked women shown off like a circus or zoo.

Yes sure in Myanmar they still culture and farm their land in the old skool way with buffalos and cows, and western fashion still hasn’t caught on (thank god! not a single ‘same same but different’ vest top in sight!). But behind this “developing country stuck in the old age” view of things there is an emerging ‘hipster’ scene with Myanmar teenagers and young people leading the way into the future.

Hipsters

This first became apparent to me when I visited the Taunggyi Balloon Festival, near Inle Lake.
Young men and women in skinny jeans and thick framed spectacles going to a fairground to drink Rum, play Basketball and ride Ferris Wheels. If the Ferris Wheels weren’t of the manual variety this could easily be Brighton Pier. Well not exactly, but it felt modern and familiar.

There are Rollerskate parks that wouldn’t be out of place in Shoreditch, and many art galleries all over the country. I bought a small painting (postcard size for $1) from a young Emo artist in a small village, who wore black nail polish and had enormous holes in his ears. He was trying to make his way in the world, using his talent and the mix of increasing tourist numbers to make a living. There is SO much art and intellect in this country! There are bookshops almost everywhere you go and I often saw people hanging out and just reading.

Normality

Just a slight turn off of the gringo trail and this is what you can discover, real 21st Century Myanmar normality. At the Taunggyi Balloon Festival, we were a big group of foreigners, usually, this would attract quite a bit of attention and people trying to sell us overpriced souvenirs. But people didn’t even look at us (until we started dancing oddly), we paid the same price for the noodles and beer as everybody else, had to push and shove our way to the front of the crowd to see the balloon close up, and run for our lives as the balloons let out fireworks just like everybody else. No-one demanding foreigners fees or trying to sell us anything, it wasn’t just the mountain air up there that was refreshing!

In Mingun we were surrounded by tourists, but not foreign ones, local tourists, who also wanted to explore and see places, spending their weekends off buying rubbish souvenirs and taking the same photos we were. Monks on their smartphones taking selfies, a young couple sneaking a kiss behind an abandoned temple.

New generation

Myanmar has many faces, most often we, in the west, only hear about one side of things, which I won’t go into on this post. But beneath all the politics are people trying to make their way in the modern world just like the rest of us, an emerging working/middle class for a new generation of Myanmar is rising. In the end, travel makes you realise not how different we are, but just how similar!

The post Modern Myanmar appeared first on Myanmar (Burma) Travel Blog.

Costing $12 to get there and back in an old open pick up truck stuffed to the brim with people and winding around mountain roads. It was one of the highlights of my time in Myanmar and a generally awesome night!. For a more indepth review about the Taunggyi Festival, check out my Taunggyi Balloon Festival blog post here, for dates for this years Taunggyi Balloon Festival, keep reading….

edit: The 2017 dates for Taunggyi Balloon Festival are 26th October – 3rd November 2017 to coincide with the November full moon. This has been confirmed from credible locals in the area, the Novotel at Inle Lake and Aythaya Vineyard in Taunggyi.

The 2016 dates for Taunggyi Balloon Festival have been confirmed as 6th November – 14th November 2016 (confirmation has come directly from the Novotel Inle Lake and the Aythaya Vineyard in Taunggyi) to coincide with the first full moon after Buddhist lent ends. The dates for Taunggyi Balloon Festival 2017 are as yet unannounced, however as soon as they are out I will update this page.

The festival starts in the morning and will carry on until the very early hours the next morning, with no official closing time.

For balloons with fireworks, head to the festival in the evening, for a more child-friendly time, stick to the day events.
There is also a fun fair with rides and stalls and plenty of food and drink stalls throughout the event.

Here is the programme of events for the week so you can plan your Taunggyi stay accordingly and not miss out.

November 2nd and 3rd will likely be the busiest, with the final night getting very heavily and sometimes dangerously crowded.

26.10.2017
Day 1 is usually very busy with an opening ceremony in the evening.
– Weaving competition (Matho Thingan)
– Hot air balloon competition (day time competition)
(The form of pagodas, ducks, dragons or even elephants)
– Hot air balloon competition (night time competition)

27.10.2017
– Weaving competition (Matho Thingan)
– Hot air balloon competition (day time competition)
(The form of pagodas, ducks, dragons or even elephants)
– Hot air balloon competition (night time competition)

28.10.2017
– Weaving competition (Matho Thingan)
– Hot air balloon competition (day time competition)
(The form of pagodas, ducks, dragons or even elephants)
– Hot air balloon competition (night time competition)

29.10.2017
– Weaving competition (Matho Thingan)
– Hot air balloon competition (day & night time competition)

30.10.2017
– Weaving competition (Matho Thingan)
– Hot air balloon competition (day & night time competition)

31.10.2017
– Weaving competition (Matho Thingan)
– Hot air balloon competition (day & night time competition)

01.11.2017
– Weaving competition (Matho Thingan)
– Hot air balloon competition (day & night time competition)

02.11.2017
– Weaving competition
– Hot air balloon competition (day & night time)
– Kathine Procession (this is a procession along the streets of Taungggi)

03.11.2017
– The prize winning robe is then offered to lord Buddha with great ceremony at the
down of the full moon day of Tazaungmone
– Hot air balloon competition (day & night time)

For a sneaky peak into the kind of thing to expect when you are at the Taunggyi balloon festival, I took some video footage [below] of one of the earlier balloons being set up and sent into the sky, plus the proceeding celebration once it had gone up safely and not fallen back down to earth. This was at the beginning of the night and so at this point it wasn’t too crowded and we were able to get front row seats to the action. A few hours later, around midnight, it was almost impossible to get onto the balloon field due to the amount of people there!

For a more indepth review about the Taunggyi Festival, check out my other blog post here

The post Taunggyi Balloon Festival Dates appeared first on Myanmar (Burma) Travel Blog.

Shwedagon is literally translated to ‘Gold Yangon’ and is thought to be the oldest and one the the most holy shrines in the country. It is like a Buddhist Disneyland, a huge compound of hundreds of temples and Buddha’s from the past 2500years all with different meanings.

Many people have a misconception that it is just one big Temple, not realising in fact that it is a HUGE complex which just happens to contain an enormous golden Pagoda/Temple as it’s centre piece. So it’s not just the gigantic main Shwedagon Pagoda you’re going for but all the little temples and pagodas around it, and even a museum and gallery, and plenty of bells to chime if you’re into it. The massive size of the area definitely surprised me, it was a lot bigger than I expected.

It is all very very gold, even the coconuts! The main Pagoda was being refurbished at the time I visited so I only got to see a glimpse of the gold, but even that was impressive! So I can imagine how great it looks in the sparkling sun when it’s all uncovered.

A Golden Coconut

You should get a free map with your $8 entry ticket, go and find some shade to sit in, and study the map and have a read up about the place, it will make the whole experience more interesting when you know what you are looking at.

From the Yangon Backpackers Hostel (close to Sule Pagoda)  I thought it was a walkable distance, and it kind of is, except it was the middle of the day, so really hot. I went in the first entrance I found, ended up being the ‘West Entrance’ which lucky me, had escalators. Escalators to enlightenment now, how 21st century!

NB: don’t go in the middle of the day like I did, it’s just too hot and I got very dehydrated.

The Shwedagon Pagoda complex is a mix of foreign tourists, locals who have come to take pictures, locals praying, offering flowers and meditating and monks hanging around. Nobody bothers you and you can hang around for as long or as little as you like.

There is a little museum/gallery with old photos showing how the Schwedagon Pagoda complex looked many years ago and takes you on a photo journey from way back in the past to the present day.

Mounted binoculars are dotted around the complex which you can use free of charge to take a look at all the jewels on the top of the main Pagoda. So there is plenty to keep you occupied.

If you really want to get into the spirit of things, figure out which day you were born, head over to the relevant corner (planetary post) and wash the statue. Washing the Buddha at the corner of your birthday is considered lucky. I did it and the locals didn’t seem to mind me being there.

If you get bored, then you are boring. But you can try looking for the golden coconut.

TOP TIP: Take a bag for your shoes. Shoes, socks, flipflops etc are not allowed in the entire area and its a hassle to carry them around. A lovely smiley local woman offered me her plastic bag which was adorable and really useful.

Fast Facts

Opening hours: 04:00 – 22:00 hrs every day.
Entrance fee: $8 or 8000Kyat
Access: There are 4 gates from which to access the complex, North, East, West and South. South and West gates have escalators. North has many steps and is full of stalls selling all sorts of things from incense sticks to souvenirs.
Dress Code: Modest. Both males and females must have knees {read ankles, they are strict!} and elbows covered. If you arrive wrongly dressed you will need to pay extra for a Longyi to cover yourself up.

The post Shwedagon: a Pagoda like no other appeared first on Myanmar (Burma) Travel Blog.

Scroll down for answers to these questions and more…

• How to pronounce Mrauk U?
• How to get to Mrauk U?
• How long to spend in Mrauk U?
• Where is Mrauk U?
• Should I go to Mrauk U or Inle Lake?
• Mrauk U vs Bagan?
• Is there a flight from Mrauk U to Yangon?
• What to see in Mrauk U?
• Is Mrauk U open to tourists?
• Mrauk U to Magwe?
• Mrauk U to Mandalay / Mandalay to Mrauk U?
• How to get from Mrauk U to Sittwe?
• Mrauk U to Yangon / Yangon to Mrauk U?
• Mrauk U to Ngapali Beach?
• How to find Mrauk U tours and guide
• How is Mrauk U Palace Hotel/Resort?
• Must see Pagodas and Temples in Mrauk U
• What is the Mrauk U Kingdom?
• How is Mrauk U weather?
• Mrauk U best hotels?

How to pronounce Mrauk U?

Mrauk U is pronounced Meow-eww

How to get Mrauk U?

There are buses servicing Mrauk U from the big cities, Yangon and Mandalay. This is the ‘easiest’ and safest route although not overly comfortable. You can also get to Mrauk U from Sittwe with a boat however going to this area is not recommended.
You can also take a bus to/from Bagan to Mrauk U.

How long to spend in Mrauk U?

Whichever way you come it will have been a long journey to get there, so best to allow yourself at least a few days in Mrauk U, 4 days is enough to see most of the major attractions and get a feel for the place.

Where is Mrauk U?

Mrauk is in the Rakhine State in western Myanmar.

Should I go to Mrauk U or Inle Lake?

They are very different and are almost opposite from each other and should not be compared. Inle Lake is far easier to get to, way more touristy and most of the life is happening on the water. Mrauk U on the other hand feels very remote and in the middle of nowhere, the main attractions are the local life of the village, temples, views and history. It depends on what you would prefer to see and experience with your time in Myanmar.

Mrauk U or Bagan?

The Mrauk U vs Bagan debate still reigns strong with Mrauk U often being compared to Bagan and even earning the nickname ’little bagan’ however in my opinion, they are in fact quite different. Yes they were both central places of the Myanmar Kingdom and are full of old pagodas and Temples, but there are differences. You don’t get the sprawling Pagoda fields in Mrauk U like you do in Bagan (Bagan is very flat, whereas Mrauk U has many hills), whereas you don’t get the rawness and remote feeling in Bagan that you do in Mrauk U.

Is there a flight from Mrauk U to Yangon?

The nearest airport is in Sittwe, which is a boat-ride away, there is no airport in Mrauk U so if you want a flight to Yangon you will first need to get to Sittwe.

What to see in Mrauk U?

Plenty of pretty scenery, temples, local life and epic sunrises. You can check out this post about top places to see in Mrauk U for more info.

Is Mrauk U open to tourists?

Yes it is open to tourists with guesthouses and guides waiting for your custom. However don’t expect the likes of Bagan or Inle Lake, you won’t find western food or many English speaking people here.

Mrauk U to Magwe

Magwe is a small town located on the Irrawaddy river in between Bagan and Yangon. Back in time when there was no direct bus between Mandalay or Bagan and Mrauk U you would have to have a stopover in Magwe to change buses. But now you just pass through, maybe have a toilet stop or a security check there.
If you still want to go there, there is a bus.

Mrauk U to Mandalay / Mandalay to Mrauk U

I wrote all about that bus ride here. It was not so bad, take food and don’t be late for the bus.

How to get from Mrauk U to Sittwe

You can take a boat to Sittwe, it takes a couple of hours. However be aware there is still some violence in Sittwe and it is not that safe.

Mrauk U to Yangon / Yangon to Mrauk U

Worst bus ride of my life, 28 hours. Read about it here.

Mrauk U to Ngapali Beach

The beach is a great idea and exactly where we wanted to go from Mrauk U for some calm. However, we choose not to go to Ngapali beach because although on the map it looks very close by, it is not so simple to get there.
You must first take a boat or bus to Sittwe and from there you have the choice of a slowboat or speedboat to a city called Toungup. From there it’s a 4/5 hour bus ride to Thandwe, which is the gateway to Ngaplai (the airport is also there) and from there it’s a 15 minute local bus to the beach. Not easy.
An alternative beach option is Ngwe Saung, which is a 24hour (ish) bus ride to Yangon followed by another 6 hour bus.

Mrauk u tours

There is some infrastructure of tour guides around Mrauk U, however being off the beaten path you will have to go in search for them. Ask at your guesthouse and also at other guesthouses. I highly recommend this guy, he was fantastic.

Mrauk U Palace Hotel/Resort

Couldn’t find it at first as it’s just outside the centre, but found Shwe Thazin hotel and it was lovely and even had a generator for 24 hour electricity, wish we had the budget to stay there but we were on the cheap cheap and didn’t want to spend the extra $20 a night.

mrauk u hotels

Most of the budget places are cookie cutter damp guesthouses, pay a little bit more for somewhere nicer, you can read here about where we stayed.

Mrauk U Pagodas and Temples

Mrauk U is adorned with temples and pagodas, there’s loads of them, everywhere! Here is the list I made of recommended ones to see:

• Kothaung Temple
• Shwetaung Paya (epic sunrise!)
• U-Mrawa and Haridaung
• Shilte-Thankg Temple
• Htukkawthein Temples

What is the Mrauk U Kingdom?

Mrauk U was once the capital of The Myanmar Kingdom, that’s why there are so many temples and Pagodas. It is stopped in lots of history, the best way to discover all the stories is to hire a bicycle and a guide to take you around for the day.

mrauk u weather

The weather is Western Myanmar and hence the weather in Mrauk U is similar to the rest of the country with a wet and dry season.

The post Mrauk U FAQs appeared first on Myanmar (Burma) Travel Blog.

Myanmar or Burma is a beautiful country with an array of things to do. Below you will find my opinion on the best spots that range from quiet beaches to natural wonders in Myanmar. Have a read below if you are looking to relax or choose the best destinations to maximise your weekend

Indawgyi Lake

Indawgyi Lake contains all the ingredients to cook up an extra special vacation break. Why? You can enjoy everything from kayaking to fishing, all while taking in the beautiful scenery. Motorboats are available there if you want to involve a few people in the water action. Likewise, the sight of the lake is addictive and is surrounded by mountains. Therefore, you can trek along mountain paths while going there. Apart from that, the surrounding area is worth a trip. It is recommended to visit this place, particularly for families.

Meinmahla Kyun Wildlife Sanctuary

See butterflies in Meinmahla Kyun Sanctuary

National Kandawgyi Gardens

National Kandawgyi Gardens are one of the major attractions you could discover with your family in Myanmar. With nearly 500 different species of flowers, shrubs and trees, you can unwind and enjoy all that nature has to offer. This Botanical Gardens hold collections of flora. As a case in point, you can find orchids of various species, dahlia gardens and many more. The Gardens are also the home to the Fossils Museum, the Petrified Wood Museum and the Butterfly Museum, and especially the 12 storey Nan Myint tower. All in all, if you go there, it would be the best way to discover a new gem.

Ngwe Saung Beach

Ngwe Saung Beach is one of the best beaches in Myanmar to admire nature. With gorgeous turquoise waters and soft sand beaches, you will appreciate this stunning place. You can take in the sun’s rays and spend your days relaxing on the beach. This beach offers a secluded swimming and picnicking spot and is a good spot for fishing, snorkelling, kayaking, wind surfing and sailing. Indeed, it is a perfect weekend destination.

Idealic Ngwe Saung beach

The post Weekend getaways in Myanmar appeared first on Myanmar (Burma) Travel Blog.

Go before they start automating their ferris wheels!

The country has not been open for standard tourism for very long and is still naively unspoilt (to an extent) by western culture. You won’t find a ‘same same but different’ singlet anywhere, Men still wear the traditional Longyi and woman aren’t ashamed to walk around with yellow paste (Thanaka, it’s used as sunscreen) on their faces. It’s not the mainstream South East Asia that you know, but it is slowly getting there with a very well trodden tourist path starting to emerge. So get there now, and here are some good reasons to visit…

1. Go before they start automating their ferris wheels, they are currently manually spun by spiderman type guys running around it like a hamster wheel.



2. Reunite with old skool favourite Sunkist fizzy orange drink! Thought you wouldn’t see it again after 1998! Its here! I got quite addicted to the orange stuff, great as a Gatorade substitute when feeling dehydrated.
3. To do a homestay in Kalaw before they finish building the new hostel/hotel shack. There will be no more interaction with the locals – not that there was that much anyway – but there is something special about staying in someone’s house, living how they live even for just a day, seeing how different it is, using a shower outside with just a 4ft wall to cover (or not cover) your modesty.
4. Go before health and safety inspectors get to Taunggyi Balloon Festival and you can be a part of the madness (in all seriousness though, be careful, it’s legit dangerous).
5. Talking of health and safety, there is a giant pagoda about to fall down in a town near Mandalay called Mingun, you can climb on top of for excellent views of the famous Irrawaddy River and see Monks taking selfies.



6. Visit Myanmar while you can still find a pagoda or temple to yourself in Bagan. This ‘secret’ (edit: not a secret at all anymore!) won’t last long and already seems to be heading the same way as Ankor Wat, Taj Mahal etc with the huge of crowds everywhere.



7. Go to enjoy the tranquillity in the middle of Inle Lake before they build a Novotel there and all the real locals have been bought out with only fake fishermen left over.



8. To use a ‘public telephone’ before the mobile network giants move in.


Making a call at a public telephone table in Yangon

9. Another reason to visit Myanmar now is to see the tattooed faces of the Chin Women and hear their amazing stories before they are no longer around, which might be within in the next decade! They are pretty old and this tradition of tattooing faces stopped about 70 years ago so they are the last of their kind.
   
10. Ronaldo (yes the footballer) teaching you how to read and speak Burmese language! (see above). There were many books like this in the endless amount of bookstalls we came across.

The post 10 reasons to visit Myanmar now appeared first on Myanmar (Burma) Travel Blog.

What an adventure climbing up to the top of the jungle covered hill to get to a deserted Pagoda that had been taken back by nature with no idea if we were even in the right place.

Finding Shwetaung Paya

We had hired a couple of bicycles that didn’t work that well and a guide who didn’t show up. After waiting 15 mins in the complete darkness outside our hotel at 4am we decided to try and give it a go by ourselves.

Head torches strapped to our foreheads (seriously there was NO light!) we started off in the direction of Shwetaung Paya in hope that we were going the right way. Passing the market sellers who were just setting up, we saw a big hill, we were close but not exactly sure where it was we were supposed to be.

At the bottom of the jungle laden hill was a man sleeping on the side of the road in some sort of shack, he was our only hope. Saying the name of the Pagoda ‘Shwetaung’ whilst making a confused face he seemed to get it, he pointed to the top of the hill, so that is where we needed to go.

Dropping our bicycles into the bushes (there was nowhere else to store them) and with headlights still on, we began to follow a pathway up the hill. As we continued up, the path became less and less clear, turning into thick, dense jungle more and more. No idea if we were about to take a wrong turn on not, Philipp luckily has a good knack for directions, and the path he choose was the right one. It was also the steepest and we had to do some elbow chops to get through the flora and fight our way through the mountain rainforest. Up to 8ft tall vegetation with heaps of spiky plants! I was sure this couldn’t be the right way, but it was also kinda exciting.

The best sunrise in Mrauk U

We made it Just at the crack of dawn with the full moon still shining above, we arrived on top of the golden hill, welcomed by two golden statues, and a pagoda that seemed to be half taken back by nature and the surrounding vegetation.

The guide showed up with a mate at the top of the Pagoda seconds before the sun popped up, but other than that, we were alone, and it was one of the most magical sunrises I have ever seen! (Yea I know that sounds cliché and tacky but it was!)

We got a 360-degree view all around Mrauk U, overlooking mountains and hills as the sun rose over them. Even the massive complex of Shittaung Paya and Dukkanthein Paya were visible. The entire time we were watching, the sunrise was truly spectacular and mesmerising.

Beginning with a clear sky as the sun rose up, suddenly a misty magical fog also began to rise. The fog came up leaving only the tips of the hills visible. Even better, other smaller pagodas, built on top of the mountains, popped out through the thick mist.

The mix of misty fog clearing then coming back then clearing again over the hills of temples and pagodas that dotted up over the mist, plus the location of the slightly creepy forgotten pagoda that we were standing on, there was a sense of sorcery to it, I didn’t want to leave that moment! But it was already daylight and warming up and there was a full day of exploring Mrauk U to do.

Fog and mist over the hill top pagodas of Mrauk U

I highly highly recommend checking out the ‘Golden Hill’ or Shwetaung Pagoda if it’s the only thing you do in Mrauk U! It is on the highest hill in Mrauk U and although is tricky to find if you just keep going upwards through the thick vegetation you will find the spot. The sunrise from the top of this hill gives Bagan sunrises a run for their money, just magical!

If you are trying to find the pagoda on the hill, this is the name of it in Burmese writing.

Shwetaung Pagoda in Burmese

The post A Mrauk U Sunrise appeared first on Myanmar (Burma) Travel Blog.

Scroll down for answers to these questions and more…

• I want to visit Bagan, how to get there?
• How far is it from Bagan to Inle lake?
• Which is better Bagan or Mandalay?
• How big is Bagan?
• How to pronounce Bagan?
• How many temples in Bagan?
• Why so many pagodas and Stupas in Bagan?
• When was Bagan built?
• Why visit?
• How long should I stay in Bagan? How many days?
• When is the best time to go?
• What’s there to see and do?
• What to wear in Bagan?
• Where to eat?
• Where to stay?
• Tell me about hotels in Bagan?
• In which country is Bagan?

I want to visit Bagan, how to get there?
It depends where you are coming from, check out the transport to Bagan post here for precise information from Bagan to Mandalay, Yangon, Inle Lake and more.

How far is it from Bagan to Inle lake?
It is approximately 350km from Bagan to Inle Lake.
There is a bus, it takes 8-10 hours (you can never account for breakdowns!). You can also fly which takes about 40 minutes. Please note the airport for Inle Lake is Heho and for Bagan is Nyaung U.

Which is better Bagan or Mandalay
They are both very different, but if you have to choose one, I would go for Bagan every time.

How big is Bagan?
The area known as Bagan (ပုဂ) or, bureaucratically, as the ‘Bagan Archaeological Zone’, is a huge 26-sq-mile area
But Bagan is made up of different small areas. The main ones being Old Bagan, New Bagan and Nyaung U. Nyaung U is where you will find the bulk of touristy restaurants and shops etc but not many sights, Old Bagan to New Bagan spans an area of approx. 5km² and this is the area where you will find the fields of Temples and Pagodas.

How to pronounce Bagan?
Bah-Ghan would be the phonetic way to say Bagan.

How many temples in Bagan?
There is no set number because no body really knows, tiny hidden temples exist in nooks that no-one except a local has visited. At one point there was over 10,000 with now approximately 2200 remains remaining.

Why so many Pagodas and Stupas in Bagan?
From the 9th to 13th centuries, Bagan was the capital of the Kingdom of Pagan, the first kingdom to unify the regions that would later become what we know now as Myanmar. This meant people flocked here and started building and building.
The culture of Bagan was dominated by religion and vver the course of 250 years, Bagan’s rulers and their wealthy subjects constructed over 10,000 religious monuments (approximately 1000 stupas, 10,000 small temples and 3000 monasteries) in the Bagan plains. The prosperous city grew in size and grandeur, and became a cosmopolitan center for religious and secular studies.

When was Bagan built?
Bagan started being built many hundreds of years ago, around the 9th century. With a great location on the Irrawaddy river it became a hub and capital of the empire.

Why visit Bagan?
Because it is one of the most amazing sites you will ever see, no other place compares or comes close to the view of thousands of pagodas and temples that stretch as far as the eye can see. It is simply magical.

How long should I stay in Bagan? How many days?
With so many temples, pagodas and stupas to explore it really is a personal choice of how many days to stay. 2-3days is an ok amount for a quick trip you can fit in 4-5 decent different temples or pagodas, but I would recommend at least 5 days to a week if you want to give it the attention it deserves and really explore.

Bagan when to go?
There is no bad time to visit Bagan, it stays mostly dry even through the wet season. However for those beautiful blue skies and a milder temperature to explore the area it is recommended to visit between November to March. This is also when you will be able to see the famous Balloons at sunrise.

Bagan what to see and do?
Plenty of history and culture to take in in this incredible place. Check out my top 10 temples and pagodas to visit here.

What to wear in Bagan?
You are visiting places of religious importance and should respect the locals by dressing appropriately. There is a dress code to enter the temples and pagodas, no shoes must be worn and shoulders and knees should be covered. I have written a whole post about it here.

Where to eat?
My favourite place to eat in Bagan wasn’t the hustling bustling restaurants in the center of Nyaung U. Sure they have writing and messages all over their walls saying how great they are from people from around the world, and if you are happy to wait an hour for an average burger and fries then go to the places on the main strip. However, if you prefer a tasty, cheap, filling Myanmar dish with great service, my recommendation is ‘Queen Restaurant’. You’ll find it tucked away on a quiet stretch of Lanmadaw Road inbetween The Winner Guest House and Bagan Princess Hotel, and opposite a fantastic little woodcarving shop which is also worth a visit. Eat the traditional Myanmar food served on a round plate. You won’t be disappointed!

Where to stay?
Apart from the more luxurious expensive hotels and resorts in New Bagan, most of the other options for those on a backpacker budget are around the same. At this budget end you’ll get a damp and dark room for around $25. Think about paying double that for a bit more luxury. Choose if you want to be in the town or closer to the pagoda fields. Winner Guest House is popular and the location is good, however our room was damp and not comfortable at all.

Hotels in Bagan?
There are many, and due to the rapid expansion and increasing tourism new ones are popping up almost weekly. Most are the same, so best to chose based on location. Word of mouth and tripadvisor reviews are the best up to date judges to go by in this fast changing country.

In which country is Bagan?
Yes really I have had this question before! It is in the central region of Myanmar.

Anymore questions or answers you can think of? Just comment below and I will try to help you out

The post Bagan FAQS appeared first on Myanmar (Burma) Travel Blog.

”
F*#king Myanmar and it’s greedy bullshit!

It’s really a beautiful beach, and I’m not fussy at all about staying in a wooden bungalow with a shitty shower and stains on the bed, but at least make it fairly priced. Don’t charge $30 for a load of turd. As Philipp said ‘if I stay basic I want to pay basic’.

Don’t make the mistake of thinking you need to stay centrally or even near the actual village of Nwge Saung. The village smells like rotten fish, with the nicer accommodation much further south down the beach so insist the minibus drops you there instead so you don’t have to walk.

There is plenty of infrastructure and restaurants and almost every hotel can book a bus/tour/whatever for you so you don’t even need to go into the village except for the ‘cultural experience’ (which you can read more about here).

What is unfortunate for backpackers here is the lack of budget options, there are about 3 beach bungalow style options, and even then they are not even budget. Completely overpriced for the damp crap you get.

Book early for Shwe Han Tin Hotel, it’s the only one that seem to have got it right in this place. It has mid range decent bungalows, good atmosphere, on a nice bit of the beach, great helpful staff. Unfortunately it was fully booked for the whole time we were there, despite our efforts of going in everyday asking for a room.

We ended up in the Pearl Ngwe Saung hotel in one of their damp wooden bungalows. I woke up with a swollen water retentive face (like Bagan) most days because of the damp mattress and it felt a bit secluded from everywhere else along the beach.

Demand a mosquito net! Bring tape to then fix the holes in the mosquito net. Or just bring your own net, which is probably the best idea as in general Myanmar is full of the biting bastards.

What to do here in Ngwe Saung, options:

•Go to an Elephant camp, which I imagine to be a bad as it sounds, like an Elephant concentration camp.
•Bit of snorkling
•Chase and piss off Hermit Crabs. ”

24hours later, I was a lot calmer and starting to enjoy the quiet beach life despite the not so great accommodation situation.

The post Grumpy Guts arrives in Ngwe Saung | Moanings appeared first on Myanmar (Burma) Travel Blog.

Talk to any backpacker that has taken the bus from Yangon to the beach town of Ngwesaung, 6 hours east of Yangon and they will likely have a horror story about Pathein. From the bus stop scam to getting totally lost. Here is my story…

The Journey begins
It started with an exhilarating motorbike ride across Yangon from one bus terminal to another (why are the terminals so far apart, is it even necessary to have that many bus terminals??).

We had an hour to get across the Yangon traffic from Aung Mingalar bus station, where we’d been dropped off after a looooong bumpy 26hr ride from MraukU, to Hlang Thar Yar station where the bus was leaving for Ngwe Saung.

the 40 minute exhilarating motorbike ride across Yangon was worth the 5000kyat even if we had of missed the bus. It was the motor taxi ride of my life! These guys dodged the traffic like pro’s, and seemed to really care that we got to the next bus on time. I felt like I was in a James Bond movie!

We got to the bus station at 9.55am with 5 minutes to spare until the 10am bus we thought we needed to get only to be told by a random child that appeared out of nowhere that there was no bus to Ngwe Saung beach that day. Bloody f**k s**t s**t s**t! Buuuuut we could get on his uncles bus and go to Pathein and change to a minibus there. After already 27 hours on the road and getting all the way here, we just went for it. Although in heinseight it may have been a scam to get us on the Pathein bus, but at the time I just didn’t care.

Air conditioning, no one vomiting into my face, spacious seat, lovely! I would have even tried to get a bit of sleep had it not been for the constant stopping, checkpoints, and my shoulders being used as pillows.

We were so happy to have made the bus that we didn’t think twice when, as we were reaching a checkpoint, the bus conductor/money collector came and closed all the curtains at the back of the bus where we were sitting, we thought he was trying to hide from the authorities, in fact, it was us he was hiding! As we soon found out when an officer stormed up to the back of the bus and demanded to see our passports. Some shouting and angry noises between the bus driver and the officer proceeded while we looked on having absolutely no idea what was going on. Then our passports were returned and we carried on the way.

We later found out that buses carrying foreigners had to pay extra per foreign person at the checkpoints. Whether the bus driver was hiding us to get away without paying extra becuase he hadn’t charged us extra or just because he wanted to keep the extra we will never know!

Getting to Pathein
So a bus to Pathein sounded great, except the Pathein bus doesn’t actually stop in central Pathein.

It stopped at the ‘new’ bus stop outside Pathein (but of course!) and everybody got off and loaded onto another bus which would take us to the main city to take the next bus to Yangon. Except we, the only ‘white’ people on the bus were taken to the side by a group of taxi drivers who crowded around us and said we were not allowed on the bus and had to pay to get to the city. Didn’t seem right, we managed to get out of the group and noticed the passengers from our bus motioning to get onto the new bus with them, we choose that option, and it happened to be a free shuttle bus to the city center for everyone (including foreigners!). The Pathein bus stop taxi scam is apparently one of the oldest in the books, and we soon met a couple of french travellers who had fallen for it!

The shuttle bus again dropped us somewhere obscure, not really in Pathein, not anywhere near a minibus to Ngwe Saung, so we decided to walk and with a little bit of luck and a little bit of help from the app ‘Maps Me’ we somehow found our way into town. Hooray! But now where?

Once in Pathein, it didn’t get any easier to find the elusive bus stop to get to Ngwe Saung. After taking a bicycle rickshaw across town and then back again after realising the driver had no clue what we were talking about, we wondered aimlessly asking in every shop, each time getting the same blank stare.
Our backpackers feeling heavier and heavier as we walked around in the heat, we finally asked another bicycle rickshaw driver, but this time pointed to the map of Ngwe Saung in the lonely planet (where is says the name in the Burmese language also) and also pointed to the word ‘bus’, he managed to put two and two together and took us the literal 50m across the road to a deserted car-park where a minibus to Ngwe Saung was waiting along. We had been so close the whole time!

We had 20 minutes before the bus left (apparently 1 leaves every hour), so just enough time to find a toilet and get some snacks for the journey. There is a huge temple in the middle of Pathein, I was pointed in it’s direction when I asked the bus driver about a toilet. To cut a long story short, if you ever find yourslef in Pathein, don’t use the Temple toilet. There is a bank across the road from the temples with an air conditioned and free toilet instead.

Finally, after 3 buses and almost 2 days on the road we were on the last leg of the journey to Ngwe Saung, packed tightly into a full minbus, I passed out for the entire length of the journey, waking up just when we arrived in Ngwe Saung, in a foul foul mood….more about that in another post!

So why ‘horrible’ Pathein? What is so awful about it? Well maybe it was just my bad mood, hunger, lack of sleep, lack of directions, awful toilet experience in a Pagoda.. just a combination of things made for bad experience in the city that I couldn’t truly judge having only spent just over an hour there. However it isn’t somewhere I would consider visiting again, it reminded me a bit of Burnt Oak in London, a bit dirty and meh. Speaking to other backpackers about it, they felt the same, like they were being scammed at every corner.

Lonely Planet describes it as having a ‘busy, buzzy atmosphere’ and somewhere worth stopping off, but then again the Lonely Planet also marked the bus stop to Ngwe Saung wrong, soooo take from that what you will.

Meanwhile here is the actual spot/derelict car park where the minibus to Ngwe Saung leaves from Pathein. 50m from the Pagoda direction east, inbetween Mingalar St and Pagoda Road. Car park can only be seen on Google Earth not the regular map. The google co-ordinates are 16°46’52.0″N 94°44’00.8″E)…

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