For those who believe in the comfort and physical/psychological health of their horse, a bitless bridle is a natural choice.

My choice of Bitless Bridle is the LightRider which I use on my 16.2hh warmblood. I find he is soft, responsive and comfortable at both slow and fast speeds and he holds himself in light self carriage, responding gently and happily to my suggestions and directions. I would highly recommend this bridle to anyone who is wanting to promote natural, non-violent communication with their horse.

Benefits of LightRider Bitless Bridles

CLEAR COMMUNICATION
With the reins attached in a similar position to a bit, the Light Rider Bridle delivers a much clearer, more direct message to the nose.

Some horses get confused or resist ‘whole head’ pressure so they respond better to the simple but effective chinstrap of this unique bitless bridle.
It works by the horse receiving release from pressure as the chinstrap slides through each noseband ring.

“I just love it! It has a snug fit for direct and clear communication, it doesn’t close down on the horse when you are having a conversation about what you would like them to do.” Jenny Pearce (International Author and Clinician).

CONTROL AND LIGHTNESS
The unique chinstrap of the Light Rider Bridle offers effective control by tightening (to a point) when pressure is applied. When the rein is relaxed, it releases to reward the horse.
Horses find it much easier to learn and become lighter when they receive release from pressure.

Comfort produces a calm horse:

• There is nothing tight on the Light Rider Bridle to bother your horse.
• The padded noseband will not mark your horse or cause excessive sweating.
• The soft nylon chinstrap releases to allow easy eating and drinking with the bridle on, without having to undo straps.
• A calm relaxed horse is a much safer ride.

EXCEPTIONAL QUALITY

The English, Stockhorse and Western styles are made from a matte Standard or Deluxe Beta Biothane. This vinyl coated polyester webbing was developed as an alternative to leather.

It has a soft leather-like feel but is much stronger and easier to care for (wipe with a damp cloth). It doesn’t fade, crack or absorb sweat.
The Natural and Performer styles are made from high quality marine braid polyester rope, as are the reins.

The padding on the noseband of the Performer is a soft, anti-gall material, the same as that used for girths. The Stockhorse style has padding over the headpiece too that provides comfort for long periods of wear.

All bridles come with either top quality solid brass or stainless steel hardware that is strong, durable and rust proof.

“It is a very beautiful thing to look at! The materials and workmanship are of a really lovely quality.” Jo Atkins, Tasmania.

Multi-purpose for more fun!

• Lead your horse easily by unclipping the reins from the chinstrap then clip to the lead ring or loop.
• Lunge your horse easily from the lead ring or loop.
• Play on the ground with the rope reins extended to warm up/down, or attach a longer line for more fun.
• Ride with the reins clipped to the chinstraps rings for maximum control, or clipped to the noseband rings like a traditional sidepull bridle.

“My students loved using it and found it much better. Tulley was even more responsive with it than the halter/rope reins we had been using. He went like a dream”. Nan Catmur (Riding instructor)

LOOKS LIKE A REGULAR BRIDLE

With the noseband positioned closer to where a cavesson sits, the Light Rider Bridle enhances the look of your horse.

You can use the English, Stockhorse, Western and Bitless Noseband knowing you will blend in with bitted horses. However, your horse will be happier and more relaxed without the discomfort caused by a bit.

Whether you already ride in bitless headgear or still use a regular bridle and bit, there are more options to choose from when it comes to practical, comfortable headgear for your horse.

The LightRider Bitless Bridle designed by Cynthia Cooper (successful competitor in many different equestrian events) is proving to also meet the pleasure rider’s needs, most importantly the ability to safely control the horse without a bit in its mouth.

Secure on the head, so offers more control than a halter.

The unique design of the chinstrap keeps the noseband from twisting and sliding when the reins are used.
This in turn puts more direct pressure on the nose and causes the horse to listen to a lighter feel on the reins.

The soft webbing chinstrap releases when rein pressure is relaxed, providing an instant reward for the horse.

It is much safer than a halter because the communication is more direct to either side of the horse’s head (and therefore easily understood), and the reins cannot become stuck on the neck if the horse tucks its head in to avoid pressure.

Lighter so more comfortable for the horse.

The lightweight materials used and light rope reins make the overall weight of the LR bridle around 500 grams (depending on the size).

The padded noseband relieves the pressure and doesn’t mark the nose like a rope halter will.

Allows easy eating and drinking.

Because the chinstrap is loose until the reins are used, the horse can fully open its jaw to eat and drink. Of course with no bit, your horse will find it easier to drink – no sucking in air with the water, and easier to chew grass when you have a break or go on those long rides.

Allows easier breathing than with a bit.

A bit obstructs the horse’s breathing, especially when the reins are held firmly, as the tongue is forced towards the back of the mouth. Combine that with some vertical flexion when a horse is held in, and you decrease the size of the airway in the throat by as much as 50%. (Ref. ‘Metal in the Mouth – the abusive effects bitted bridles’ by Dr Cook & Dr Strasser.)

Doesn’t cause pain or damages the horse’s mouth.

When you take away the bit, you immediately take away a lot of pain from pressure applied to the reins.

A bit acts directly on the bars of the mouth which are only covered by a thin layer of skin and tissue – a bit like your shin bone.

When a horse experiences pain, it’s instinctive reaction is to fight and become harder to control. Also, the bars are damaged and eventually bone spurs form from bit pressure.
The horse also reacts to pain by throwing its head up, tossing its head repeatedly or opening its mouth.
This then causes the rider to need a martingale or tight noseband to keep control and makes life very uncomfortable for the horse.

A LightRider bitless bridle, even in heavy hands, will not cause pain unless it is fitted extremely low on the nose where it can obstruct breathing.
It won’t rub the horse, even if you have constant contact for longer periods, as the chinstrap keeps everything from slipping and the padded noseband protects the hard bone of the nose.

The reins unclip to make a long rope for leading.

When you have to get off your horse out on the trail it takes a few seconds to unclip the reins from the chinstrap and one end onto the halter loop/ring. You then have up to a 3m length of rein for leading or tailing your horse up hills, or tackling those challenging obstacles from the ground.

No need to change head gear.

From the time you catch your horse to the time you release him/her back in the paddock, there’s no need to change from halter to bridle and back again. Please note the rein clips are not designed for tying a horse – but a regular rope can easily be clipped on for this.

Easy to clean and dry.

• The LightRider Natural or Performer Rope bridle is easily washed in water, and a little scrub with a brush gets out all the sweat and dirt. Or you can throw it in a net bag in the washing machine to get it looking like new again.
• Hang it up to drip dry and its ready to go again the next morning.
• The LightRider Biothane bridle range wipes clean quickly with a damp cloth.

“I have ridden bitless for a couple of years now with a crossover bridle and then progressed to a simple rope hackamore. So my mare is quite used to being without a bit, especially for hacking. The crossover does not have the release my mare needs being sensitive, and so the responses to my cues are often delayed and therefore my cues have to shout louder over the noise levels to get her attention. And all I can say is thank you for designing such a wonderful piece of equipment. It is so simple, yet so effective. “ Jo UK.

“I am very, very happy with my new LightRider bridle. I have tried a few different types of bitless bridles and this is by far the best I have come across” Siobhan, Western Australia.

The LightRider Bitless Bridle gives you:

* Clear direct communication
* A more reliable stop
* Release from pressure
* A happy horse, free from bit pain

Unique Chinstrap: The purpose of the soft webbing chin strap is to help the noseband stay in place when pressure is applied to the reins – this stops the noseband twisting around. The chinstrap becomes snug, does not over-tighten and provides release when the rein is loose for the ultimate comfort of your horse.

The 3 biothane styles all have the following great features:

• * Looks like a classy traditional bridle.
• * Made from synthetic leather-look ‘Beta Biothane’ (Deluxe model)
  * or Regular Biothane (Standard model).
• * Solid stainless steel or brass fittings.
• * Easy to care for – simply sponge or wipe clean with water.
• * Available with or without light rope or biothane reins.

There are six styles to suit your purpose and taste:

• English, Stockhorse and Western in biothane
• And in rope – the Natural and the Performer
  with extra padded noseband for versatility.
• And the NEW – LightRider Bitless Noseband
  - in elegant, leather look biothane and soon available in leather.

ORDER NOW:

There are 3 easy steps to ordering your bridle today:

Size

Mini $95.00 Small Pony $95.00 Pony $95.00 Cob $95.00 Warmblood/Draft $95.00

Colour

Black Blue Purple

Quantity

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

LightRider Bitless Noseband

For those that would love to use their own bridle, the LightRider Bitless Noseband allows you to go bitless in your favourite bridle.

Make use of those bridles you have at home by converting them to bitless, giving you more options for fitting different sizes, and bridle styles.

The Bitless Noseband consists of the LightRider Noseband with cheek piece attachment points, webbing chinstrap and connector strap with leading ring.

Simply attach it to the cheek pieces of your own bridle  instead of a bit (fits up to 1″ cheek straps), and you have a Bitless bridle at an affordable price.

Colours: Black and brown in Deluxe Beta Biothane/leather, or black in Standard Biothane with stainless steel fittings (brass fittings coming soon).

Sizes:

Small Pony/Mini (8-11.2hh/81-117cm)

Pony (11-13.2hh/112-137cm)

Cob (fits 13.2-14.3hh/137cm to 150cm).

Full (fits 15hh-17hh/152cm to 173cm).

Warmblood/draft (fits solid 17hh-18hh/164cm to 183cm) or smaller draft breeds

I recommend you use scissor rein clips for easy change over to the leading ring which enables groundwork/leading/lunging, or buy LightRider reins with clips included to have the correctly weighted reins designed for this bridle.

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Material

Leather $49.00 Standard Biothane $49.00 Deluxe Beta Biothane $65.00

Colour

Black Brown

Quantity

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Size

Mini-Small Pony Pony Cob Full Warmblood/Draft

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LightRider Bridle – English

Ideal for shows, pony club, jumping, dressage, hunters and adult riding clubs.

The best looking bitless bridle – looks like a classy traditional bridle.

Colours: black or dark brown in Deluxe Biothane with stainless steel fittings, or black in Standard Biothane with stainless steel fittings.

Sizes:

Cob (fits 13hh-14.3hh/132cm to 152cm).

Full (fits 15hh-16.2hh/152cm to 173cm).

Warmblood/draft (fits solid 17hh-18hh/164cm to 183cm) or smaller draft breeds.

Features:

• Made from synthetic leather-look ‘Beta Biothane’ (Deluxe model), Regular Biothane (Standard model) and quality leather. Solid stainless steel fittings.
• Easy to care for – simply sponge or wipe clean with water.
• Unique Chinstrap: The purpose of the soft webbing chin strap is to help the noseband stay in place when pressure is applied to the reins – this keeps the noseband from twisting around.
• The chinstrap becomes snug and does not over-tighten so this bridle is usually well accepted by sensitive horses.

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Material

Leather $89.00 Standard Biothane $89.00 Deluxe Beta Biothane $165.00

Colour

Black Brown

Quantity

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Size

Cob Full Warmblood/Draft

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LightRider Bridle – Rope Performer

This top quality poly rope bridle has stainless steel fittings and noseband padding (antigall material) to offer extra comfort.

The LightRider Performer is suited for situations where the horse wears the bridle for longer periods, as in endurance riding, or when rein contact is maintained in dressage, eventing or jumping. Also suitable for tying solid like a regular rope halter (with a lead rope – not the reins).

Sizes: Pony to warmblood/draft, with coloured headstalls: Black, Purple or Blue.

Comes with black LightRider rope reins, and black contrasting browband, noseband and chinstrap.

Features:

• The chinstrap becomes snug and does not over-tighten so this bridle is usually well accepted by sensitive horses.
• The swivel snaps on the reins enable you to quickly unclip them to make a lead rope.
• The padding on the noseband is a soft, anti-gall material, the same as that used for girths.
• The LightRider Performer has top quality stainless steel hardware that is strong, durable and rust proof.

Unique Chinstrap: The purpose of the soft webbing chin strap is to help the noseband stay in place when pressure is applied to the reins – this keeps the noseband from twisting around. When rein pressure is applied the chinstrap becomes snug but does not over-tighten due to the type of webbing used, so most of the pressure is on the top of the nose.

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Colour

Black Blue Purple

Quantity

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Size

Pony Cob Full Warmblood/Draft

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LightRider Bridle – Stockhorse

Ideal for stock work, camp-drafting, sporting, starting young horses and trail or endurance riding.

The best looking bitless bridle – looks like a classy traditional bridle.

• Made from synthetic leather-look ‘Beta Biothane’ (Deluxe model), regular Biothane (Standard model) and leather. 
  
  
• Solid brass fittings and extra stitching on headpiece.
• Easy to care for – simply sponge or wipe clean with water.

Unique Chinstrap: The purpose of the soft webbing chin strap is to help the noseband stay in place when pressure is applied to the reins – this keeps the noseband from twisting around. The chinstrap becomes snug and does not over-tighten so this bridle is usually well accepted by sensitive horses.

Features:

• Padded noseband, headpiece and brow band offers more comfort for your horse
• Soft webbing adjustable chinstrap that releases for comfort and reward.
• The noseband sits higher than most bitless bridles and does not need to be tight, allowing the horses to eat and drink.
• Designed for leading your horse too, or the lead ring and strap can be removed for ridden show classes. Also great for showing in led classes without a bit.

Sizes:

Cob (fits 13hh-14.3hh/132cm to 152cm).

Full (fits 15hh-16.2hh/152cm to 173cm).

Warmblood/draft (fits solid 17hh-18hh/164cm to 183cm) or smaller draft breeds.

Colours: black or brown in Deluxe Biothane and leather, or black in the Standard Biothane.

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Colour

Black Brown (deluxe/leather only) Violet (deluxe only)

Quantity

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Size

Cob Full Warmblood/Draft

Material

Leather $99.00 Standard Biothane $89.00 Deluxe Beta Biothane $165.00

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LightRider Bridle – Western

The LightRider Western is ideal for western breeds, reining, cutting, shows, pleasure and trail.

Comes in black or brown (some violet in cob size still avail.) in the Deluxe Biothane with silver conchos and plaited horsehair browband.

• Made from synthetic leather-look stitched Deluxe ‘Beta Biothane’. 
  
• Stainless steel fittings for strength and longevity.
• Soft webbing adjustable chinstrap that releases for comfort and reward.
• The best looking bitless bridle – looks like a classy traditional bridle.

Unique Chinstrap: The purpose of the soft webbing chin strap is to help the noseband stay in place when pressure is applied to the reins – this keeps the noseband from twisting to give clear and direct communication.

When rein pressure is applied the chinstrap becomes snug but does not over-tighten due to the type of webbing used, so most of the pressure is on the top of the nose.This bridle is usually well accepted by sensitive horses as there is no poll pressure.

Benefits:

• Padded noseband and brow band offers more comfort.
• Easy to care for – simply sponge or wipe clean with water.
• The noseband sits higher like a cavesson so doesn’t need to be tight, allowing the horses to eat and drink easily.
• Multi purpose for leading too, or the lead ring and strap can be removed for ridden show classes. Also a great option for showing in lead line classes.

Sizes:

Cob (fits 13.2-14.3hh/137cm to 150cm).

Full (fits 15hh-17hh/152cm to 173cm).

Warmblood/draft (fits solid 17hh-18hh/164cm to 183cm) or smaller draft breeds.

.

.

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Colour

Black Brown Violet

Size

Cob $185.00 Full $185.00 Warmblood/Draft $185.00

Quantity

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

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LightRider Reins

LightRider Rope Reins

These 10mm marine poly rope reins are light to allow good release of the LightRider bridle chinstrap.

They come with solid brass or stainless steel swivel rein clips to match the bridle hardware, and are one piece for leading in the bridle (not suited for tying solid) and doing groundwork before riding.

The looped ends make it easy to replace the clips which are lightweight so there is breaking point in the rein. If a horse steps on the rein a clip will break rather than the bridle, and this avoids injury to the horse.

Available in 4 sizes and 2 colours (black and brown) to match the bridles.

Small (2m) Medium (2.6m), Large (3m) and X-Large (3.6m)

LightRider Standard Biothane reins match the Standard Biothane bridles in 5/8″ biothane with stainless steel or brass rein clips.

These are one piece reins for leading in the bridle (not suited for tying solid) but can easily be converted to split reins and joined with a thong or buckle (not supplied).

Available in 3 sizes: Medium (2.6m), Large (3m) and X-Large (3.6m)

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Clip

Brass $35.00 Stainless Steel $45.00

Colour

Black Brown

Size

Small (2m/82″) Medium (2.6m/100″) Large (3m/118″) Extra Large (3.6m/142″)

Quantity

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Material

10 mm Polybraid Rope Standard Biothane

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LightRider Replacement Browband $19

If you need a smaller or larger browband, you may also swap your current one for a different size.

Please send the Return Policy Form you received with the bridle, giving the measurement or size you need.

Remember to include a stamped, self addressed envelope.

Please Note: The Western Horsehair Browband patterns may change subject to availability.

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LightRider Replacement Chinstrap

Unique Chinstrap: The purpose of the soft webbing chin strap is to help the noseband stay in place when pressure is applied to the reins – this stops the noseband from twisting to give clear and direct communication.

When rein pressure is applied the chinstrap becomes snug but does not over-tighten due to the type of webbing used, so most of the pressure is on the top of the nose.

The chinstrap sizing varies between the different styles of bridle so please choose the style you intend to use the chinstrap for.

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Colour

Black Brown

Size

Mini/Small Pony Pony Cob Full Warmblood/Draft

Quantity

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Bridle style chinstrap is for

Rope Leather Standard Biothane Deluxe Biothane

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Rein Clips

Rein Clips: Available in lightweight quality solid brass and stainless steel.

The swivel stops the reins from twisting and the closed scissor action stops the clip accidentally hooking onto something like a wire fence if your horse leans over while wearing the bridle.

I recommend you use these trigger clips to attach your own reins to the bridle, for easy swapping to the lead ring/loop for leading, groundwork etc.

Replacement Clips: If your horse has stepped on a rein and broken the clip, it’s easily replaced.

Better that the clip breaks than the bridle or the horse!

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Quantity

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Type

Brass $6 each Stainless Steel $8 each

From the Horse’s Mouth ….

Ever want to know what your horse is really thinking?

To get inside your horse’s mind and really hear their thoughts?

Anyone who is a horse owner will know how possible it is to read our horse’s body language and surmise what it is they could be thinking. But imagine not having to simply guess or predict, but to really know, to be able to have an intimate two-way conversation where you can really hear them, and they you.

Horses have a number of ways of communicating: facial expressions, the placement of different body parts, their individual behaviours and mannerisms, sound, their body structure, touch and importantly, their presence. It is possible to refine all of these means of communication, so that one can freely and deeply connect with your horse.

We can learn to heighten our knowledge of the different communication styles. And we may also find we are better at one style than another. If you are finding your relationship with your horse is not as good as it could be, you might want to experiment with growing your abilities to communicate visually, verbally, kinaesthetically (through touch) or auditorily (through sounds). By taking the time to watch and hear our horses, with an open and neutral mind, we are able to learn may things.

I’ve always thought an important skill to develop is to practise removing our ‘human’ filters – the projections we have from a human perspective. For example, “wouldn’t it be so much more comfortable for my horse to eat from a feed bin on the fence?” (as I might prefer). The reality though is that a horse’s digestive system is most effective when they eat with their head down, as naturally horses do in the wild. This assists the gut, and also ensures even wearing of the teeth.

An important human filter to watch out for is where we may substitute ‘convenience’ in our own lifestyle for ‘care’ of our equines. Living in a modern lifestyle, most of us will do this to some extent. For instance, we may have one horse rather than two because it is more affordable. However as horses are herd animals they thrive on companionship. So, if we are keeping a horse on their own we must strive to give them plenty of companionship, entertainment and grooming – as they would do for each other in the paddock.

Being aware of the needs of horses is important. And it increases our relationship with them no end.

Unfortunately horses rarely get a choice about their surroundings. So by deliberately reaching out to any horses in our care, we can make the horses journey in a human world an easier one. If we attempt to think from the horses point-of-view we can learn a lot, and we can give our horses the very best circumstances to thrive in, both emotionally and physically. This sometimes requires us to step out of our way of thinking, our assumptions and our projections, to really tune into the languages of the horse. And we need to do this regularly, not just occasionally. As with any great relationship, it takes refinement.

It is possible to learn to telepathically communicate with your horse. This may seem a foreign approach for people, but for the horse its everyday. Horses are in fact very good at this, as unlike people, sound is their least dominant form of expression.

Thirdly, the feel of a horse’s body can tell us a lot about their health. Tightness in certain areas or looseness, can reflect areas lacking in chi (energy) and can communicate our horse’s current state of health. Getting to know our horse’s bodies can help us make decisions about how to best help and support their wellbeing. Therapies such as acupuncture, massage, shiatsu, bowen, energy work, facia and muscle release therapies plus other such modalities can influence this vital chi and maintain your horse in great health.

I regularly enjoy hearing stories of ways you connect with your horse, so feel free to add your comments here to share with everyone.

Warmest regards

Zoe

Social behaviour

Horses are very social animals and in a natural setting will form harem groups or bachelor groups. Harem groups are typically one dominant male and a number of females and foals.

Living in a herd is what horses do best. As horse owners, we need to take this into consideration. To provide domestic horses with the best opportunity for happiness, both play and social stimulation is desirable. As a general rule, the best social environment for your horse is the company of one or more horses in a large open environment. However, this may not always be possible. As a horse owner of a solo horse, you will need to provide your horse with the company and stimuli they would otherwise get from horses. Regular riding, opportunities to socialise with other horses, companion animals and regular care and affection can help to ease the loneliness blues. There are of course some horses that seem to cope better on their own than others, though nearly all horses prefer an opportunity for some company and connection.

Where possible it is good to provide your horse with good visual stimulation of other horses and/or humans. Horses are naturally curious, playful animals and like people, they enjoy variety. An environment that minimises stress but maximises variety and allows for maximum socialisation with other horses is ideal. When considering the formation of a harmonious herd dynamic, you may need to factor in gender balancing. Putting stallions in with stallions is most likely to end in injury. Naturally in the wild, stallions fight for their place in the herd, and this may lead to serious injuries to any one of your horses.

Enriching your horse’s environment will help to improve their welfare and social behaviour.

During the process of domesticating horses, the horse has inevitably been removed from its natural environment and limited and restricted in movement.  So what affect has this had on horses, and how well have they adapted?

The process of confining horses into small areas including stables and stalls has contributed to the formation of behaviours we commonly label as ’stable vices’. These behaviours may include crib-biting and wind sucking, weaving, box-walking, pawing and wood chewing.

When a horse’s ability to perform natural behaviours is compromised, displacement behaviours that are repetitive and meaningless can instead be formed. These are all signs of boredom and reduced welfare and are not normally seen in extensively grazing horses. Sometimes mistaken for naughtiness, these habituated behaviours can become highly addictive and habitual.

There are likely to be many reasons for behavioural problems in horses but studies indicate that accommodation is a major contributor.

So what can we do for our horses to help minimise these behavioural displacements?

Begin with allowing your horse open grazing time whenever possible. Include some opportunities for social interaction. Start to think like a horse when it comes to eating routines. Traditionally horses graze most of the day, and much of their forage is high fibre and high roughage. These type of foods are perfectly suited to a horses digestive system, and they also serve to keep a horse entertained all day long.

If you see displacement behaviours or stable vices in your horse, it may be the result of habits formed previously due to undesirable circumstances, or exposure to other horses with similar behaviour traits. Attempt to interrupt these patterns by stimulating your horse through play and connection. Is your horse trying to communicate something to you? Flower essences can assist in balancing emotions and clearing past behavioural traits.

Your horse requires play and creativity as well as safety and comfort to be happy within their environment.

One Horses fight for Survival

I am sorry, I don’t know the origins or author of this story. It was something that was emailed to me, one of those stories that gets passed around on the internet.

I think its a great story of courage and willpower, and the amazing resilience horses have to adapt as well as there amazing generosity of spirit. I think its a story that is meant to be read by many.

My blessings to Molly and I hope you enjoy this read as much as I have.

Ya gotta meet Molly….

Meet Molly. She’s a grey speckled pony who
 was abandoned by her owners when Hurricane 
Katrina hit southern Louisiana .

She spent weeks
 on her own before finally being rescued and taken 
to a farm where abandoned animals were stockpiled. While there, she was attacked by a pit bull terrier
 and almost died. Her gnawed right front leg became 
infected, and her vet went to LSU for help, but
 LSU was overwhelmed, and this pony was a welfare 
case.

You know how that goes. 

But after surgeon Rustin Moore met Molly, he 
changed his mind. He saw how the pony was 
careful to lie down on different sides so she didn’t 
seem to get sores, and how she allowed people to
 handle her. She protected her injured leg. She
 constantly shifted her weight and didn’t overload
 her good leg. She was a smart pony with a serious 
survival ethic.

 Moore agreed to remove her leg below the knee,
and a temporary artificial limb was built.

Molly 
walked out of the clinic and her story really
 begins there. ‘This was the right horse and the right owner,’ 
Moore insists. Molly happened to be a
 one-in-a-million patient. 
She’s tough as nails, but sweet, and she was willing to cope with pain. She made it obvious she understood that she was 
in trouble. The other important factor, according 
to Moore , is having a truly committed and compliant 
owner who is dedicated to providing the daily care 
required over the lifetime of the horse.

Molly’s story turns into a parable for life in
Post-Katrina Louisiana ….
 The little pony gained weight, and her mane finally felt a comb. 
A human prosthesis designer built her a leg.

The prosthetic has given Molly a whole new life, 
Allison Barca DVM, Molly’s regular vet, reports.

 And she asks for it. She will put her little limb out,
and come to you and let you know that she wants
 you to put it on. Sometimes she wants you to take 
it off too. And sometimes, Molly gets away from
 Barca. ‘It can be pretty bad when you can’t catch
 a three-legged horse,’ she laughs.

Most important of all, Molly has a job now. Kay,
the rescue farm owner, started taking Molly to 
shelters, hospitals, nursing homes, and rehabilitation 
centers. Anywhere she thought that people needed
 hope. Wherever Molly went, she showed people 
her pluck. She inspired people, and she had a 
good time doing it.

’It’s obvious to me that Molly had a bigger role to 
play in life, Moore said. She survived the hurricane,
she survived a horrible injury, and now she is giving
 hope to others.’

Barca concluded, ‘She’s not back to normal, but
 she’s going to be better…To me, she could be a
symbol for New Orleans itself.’

This is Molly’s most recent prosthesis. The bottom 
photo shows the ground surface that she stands on,
which has a smiley face embossed in it.. Wherever
 Molly goes, she leaves a smiley hoof print behind.

Perhaps you also have a story you would like to share?

You can add it to the comments box below, or email me with photos to share that inspiration with others.

All the best for now,

Zoe

How to treat a horse with back pain:

If your horse is very sore it is best to get professional advice and the help of a qualified equine therapist to assist your horse.

If your horse has minor muscle soreness, you can practise some gentle massage and acupressure techniques. By principle, begin very slowly and watch your horse carefully for signs of pain or annoyance. Allow your horse to guide you as you work and if your horse is not happy with what you are doing, it is probably for good reason. You may need to stop what you are doing or seek further help with your technique, or with your horse’s back.

Begin your connection with your horse by relaxing your own body with some deep breaths and making sure you are not carrying any tension into your treatment.

Before focusing your attention on your horse’s back region, open your treatment with long slow sweeping strokes down the whole of your horses body, feeling for tension, heat or cold. Repeat this process 3 times attuning yourself to your horse.

Next focus your energy on the lumbar area, from behind the saddle area to the high point of the croup (the high point of the hindquarters).

• Begin by gently palpating (feeling) for any obvious areas of tension or pain.
• Remember to remain attuned to your horse so you don’t provide any unnecessary discomfort during this assessment.
• Be aware that areas of pain or tenderness may cause your horse to react unexpectedly.
• Be sure to position yourself safely and wear adequate footwear and clothing when treating your horse.

The sore areas that you have located are known as Ashi points (pain points) and they will be important in your treatment.

When working on back pain one can consider local points (ashi points) as well as trigger points (areas that relate and affect the region of pain) and distal points (points further from the area of pain that also have a direct impact on the site of pain).

In today’s example you can use one or several of the following general acupressure points to relieve tension and pain in the lumbar area of your horse’s back. These points were discovered and researched over thousands of years of Traditional Chinese Medicine use. They can be applied easily and effectively to your horse. Begin gently and as the tension of the point eases you will be able to work progressively deeper. Go slowly and this will enable your horse to relax into the treatment. Using your thumbs or palm, begin with slow circular motions to warm up the area and disperse areas of tension. When applying steady pressure, allow your body weight to support you so you are not working from your own muscle strength. This will give you a more consistent treatment, and will prevent you from tiring throughout the process.

One or several of the following general acupressure points can be used:

Kidney 27 – Used for lumbar pain relief. Located on the chest between the sternum and the first rib.
Governing Vessel 1 – Used for spine pain (lift up the tail, and this point is found above the rectum and below where the dock joins the hindquarters).
Governing Vessel 4 - Helps with chronic lumbar pain and works to strengthen the lower back.
Bladder 29 – Used for mid-back pain relief and stiffness. Located in front of the upper end of the poverty groove on the hindquarters.
Bladder 20-29 - Any of the tender points running parallel (head to tail) located 1-2 inches down from spine. Many of these points are good pain relief points and will help with lower back pain.
Bladder 40 – This is the Master point for the lower back and for relieving lumbar pain. This point is located centrally in the crease behind the upper back leg when you pick up the hind leg.
GallBladder 30 – This point stimulates the hind legs and strengthens the tendons, helping with hindquarter muscle soreness. Found just beside the hip bone on the hindquarters.
GallBladder 34 – This point strengthens the back and joints, known for its benefit to tendons and ligaments. Located in front of and below the head of the fibula (shin bone).
Gall Bladder 44 & Bladder 67 – These are the last points on the channels and are beneficial for the lower back. Located on the lateral (outer) area of the hind leg coronet band.
Bai Hui - Used for stiffness and back pain relief. Located along the lower back as you follow the line of the spine back to where a soft dip appears, before the sacral vertebras begin.

(I would normally include hind leg stretches in a basic back treatment, but this is another whole other article in itself. Another topic for another day!)

How to tell when the treatment is complete:

Upon completion you will usually notice:

· Reduced pain and sensitivity throughout the lumbar area.

· Your horse may stretch, yawn, shake or chew.

· Your horses back muscles will be softer and less reactive.

· Your horse will be in a state of relaxation and enjoyment.

· As you draw to the end of your treatment you may notice your horse becomes restless. This can be an indication that the treatment is complete and they are now feeling eager to move around and enjoy their new found pain relief.

This treatment can be repeated every couple of days for a week or more to see lasting results.

You will find your horse will enjoy riding, saddling and grooming more and be thankful for your attention!

You may also find that your horse rushes to be near you and looks forward to being in your company more when he sees you next.

Not only will your horse feel better physically, enabling them to move with ease and grace, but their capacity to enjoy life and feel mentally and emotionally balanced (both in the paddock and whilst performing) will have increased.

Identifying Back Pain in Horses

In today’s blog I am going to talk about Back pain in horses. Unfortunately, it is something that is common, and that often goes unrecognised. It is something I see a lot in my clinic. Riding horses who have pain in their back region can have a big impact on their happiness and comfort.

A horses back is dividable into three regions. The Thoracic (spanning from the withers to just past where the last rib attaches to the spine), the Lumbar continuing on from the thoracic section (this region spans to the point of the croup) and the Sacrum (the region spanning to the tail). The tail is an extension of the back, where beneath the dock the coccygeal vertebras continue to the point of the tail.

In today’s blog I am going to discuss Lumbar pain. The Lumbar Area is an area that is often sore in horses. These back muscles receive a lot of use, and even unridden horses can be stiff and sore across the lumbar region. Additional problems such as an incorrectly fitted saddle or uneven rider weight distribution for riding horses can further exacerbate a back problem. The back lumbar muscles assist a horse in being able to flex sideways (laterally) and they ensure free movement through the back as the horse progresses forward. Freeing up pain or tension in the lumbar area can lead to a greater ability and willingness for the horse to move forward and to improved flexibility and range of motion for the whole horse.

How to tell if a horse is sore:

You will know if your horse has a problem in their back area if there is sensitivity or pain when you palpate (feel with an adequate amount of pressure) or if there is tension across the muscle bands. Any unwillingness to move sideways may indicate pain in the opposite lumbar region (opposite side of the horse) or any unevenness in hind leg stride can indicate back pain. Check for sensitivity when your horse is saddled, groomed or touched or for any resistance to go forward properly. If your horse drops in the back, or is overly restless or defensive when touched or mounted, it may be that they are sore.

Excessive tail wringing or holding the tail to the side as well as a difficulty collecting can be signs of lower back pain. A horse that exhibits uncharacteristic behaviour such as bucking or refusing to jump when he normally be willing, is a cause for exploration also, and may indicate pain in the lumbar area.

In my next blog I will explore how one can carry out a treatment for relieving lower back pain in your horse.

All the best,

Zoe

Horses Love Aromatherapy …

Aromatherapy describes the therapeutic use of essential oils, diluted to a

manageable potency and used either directly on the skin or indirectly through inhalation. But essential oils are not all about smells. Aromatherapy has been proven to have therapeutic effects on both people and animals. At this point I have to mention one must always be cautious when using essential oils on animals (especially cats) as essential oils can be powerful and have damaging health effects on the more sensitive of breeds.

Essential oils are completely different from ‘fragrant oils’, as they are extracted from plants and herbs and are proven to have therapeutic effects. Fragrant oils on the other hand are often chemically manufactured or produced to provide a cheap smelling oil based product.

Each essential oil has a specific property – similar to herbal medicine – including anti-bacterial, anti-fungal and antiseptic qualities of the oil etc.

The aromatic molecules of essential oils are so small they are able to penetrate the deepest layer of the skin, and because they are also fat-soluble they can seep beyond the skin cells and enter the bloodstream, which is where the healing properties do their job. Dispersing via the blood is what enables the antibacterial/antiseptic/antifungal elements to be absorbed and used within the body.

Essential oils also enter the body via inhalation. Whether your horse can smell it or not, inhalation of essential oils creates a message that is sent straight to the brain and can affect hormones and other emotional stimuli. A certain amount will also pass through the mucous lining of the nose where it can enter the lungs having a positive effect on breathing and other respiratory tract issues like asthma or chest infections.

Essential oils can have enormous medicinal benefits and can be an integral part of anynatural first aid kit for horses and people alike. It is interesting to note that your horse if given the opportunity, will often select the most beneficial essential oil for them. A particular attraction or infatuation with a specific oil’s smell, can mean that your horse would benefit from the therapeutic effects of that essential oil. The same applies to people.

Using a cold pressed vegetable oil base, your Essential Oils needs to be diluted to approximately 2.5% and can be used on an area that is sore or needing invigorating.

Therapeutic grade essential oils are beneficial for emotional healing as well as physical healing. It is important to note however that horses have a very good sense of smell and do not need the oils to be very strong to still have a profound effect.

There are some oils that are best to avoid if you have a pregnant mare. A qualified aromatherapist will be able to inform you about which oils to use on your horse. And I will also cover this topic in future blog posts.

As they are not protein based, essential oils will not cause an allergic reaction (unlike the use of fragrant oils). However it is still possible for your horse to be intolerant to the oils. Some oils are phototoxic which means they make one more sensitive to sunlight: as a rule this applies to the citrus oils and as a general principle it is best to be well informed about the oils properties before using them on your horse.

Essential oils can be beneficial in a number of circumstances, and to find out specific properties and their healing applications I recommend consultation with a qualified equine therapist. Any major imbalance or health condition in your horse must also first be assessed by a veterinarian.

Like much of what nature provides, we are given access to an abundance of natural, health enhancing properties that can be beneficial for ourselves as well as our horses. Essential oils can assist your horse towards greater vitality and longevity in life and give them the support of natural, plant based goodness to keep them in great health and balance. I often think that in times of lesser captivitiy and human involvement, horses would have had access to a much greater range of flowers and plants to assist them in staying well. I think of essential oils when I want to support my horse through a chronic health condition or to help them through unfamiliar circumstances.

Feel free to use the comments box below to share a story or two about how essential oils have helped your horse experience good health…

Warm wishes

Zoe

Flower Essences can offer Emotional Balance for You & Your Horse …

Flower essences have a special place in my heart because of their ability to influence our emotional and spiritual wellbeing. I find horses very receptive to flower essences and will usually recommend both horse and rider take them together when seeking to balance any behavioural or emotional issues. This is because very often our horses will mirror or reflect any imbalances or problems we are working on, with both issues we are aware of, and issues we are not.

Dr Edward Bach, an inspirational physician and homeopath, developed flowerremedies in the late 1920’s and early 1930’s. Today these remedies are used throughout the world and are widely acknowledged for their gentle yet profound qualities.

Flower essences are liquid plant preparations that are made by infusing a fresh flower blossom under very specific conditions to create a potentized flower extract. The bach flower essences are remedies made from the extracts of flowering plants, including the roots, bark, leaves and most commonly the flowers themselves. They work to balance the emotional status and assist the flow of positive energy.

At a time when plants are blooming, nature is said to be in its peak radiance and highest vibration. The essences are prepared using native flowers found growing in different regions around the world in their natural environments. Once gently prepared, the healing properties of the flowers are used to assist people and animals in balancing their wellbeing and harmonising their physical, mental and emotional energies.

All of the 38 original remedies developed by Dr. Bach are still in existence today. In fact there are now hundreds of flower essences available as single essences. Of these, the Australian Bush Flower Essences have grown in popularity, as they are known for their strength and vitality.

Some flower remedies work rapidly showing results in hours, whereas others may take weeks. Often I find the remedies work in a subtle way and can sometimes elude us because of their gentle aligning capacity. What I mean by this is I often notice clients who have forgotten the original problem by the end of a course of treatment, because everything is simply normal and harmonious again!

Remedies may be taken up to several times a day as recommended by the practitioner. Bush Flower Emergency Essence and Bach Flower Rescue Remedy can be given to your horse on a needs basis, after a trauma or injury. But generally most essences are given for a week or longer, two weeks being the most common.

So when would I consider using the essences on my horse?

Uses and Benefits:

Flower essences are used for providing clarity and calm and help to assist in trauma and the processing of emotions. The philosophy and aim of flower essences is to provide a harmonious interaction between one’s mental and physical bodies.

Flower Essences can be beneficial for a range of emotional issues such as fear, aggression, anxiety, depression and over-excitement in horses. They have also been shown to be helpful to assist both horse and owner during times of transition, loss and adjustment to new situations.

The essences work to nourish the energetic systems of the body and mind. According to Dr Bach, (the founder of European flower essences), flower remedies can help to overcome any underlying emotional problems which may be manifesting as physical symptoms. So using the essences to balance a physical ailment is useful when you think the problem may have arisen due to an emotional imbalance.

Application:

Essences are most effective when applied into the mouth, in drinking water or on a hard treat. They can also be applied onto the coat or into the horse’s feed. The flower essences can be used in your horse’s daily care program (1 to 3 times daily), or used as a training or behavior adjunct (1 hour before needed).

It is useful to note that the ‘rhythmic’ use of the remedies aids in the strength of their actions. What this means is the potency is increased by using them on a more frequent and consistent basis, not by using more drops at a time. Dosage is generally dependant on the application used and also varies according to the remedy. As a general guide the Australian Bush Flower Remedies recommend a standard of 7 drops, two times per day in mouth, water or on coat.

As Flower Essences are based upon vibrational energies, they have no direct impact upon the body’s biochemistry. They are non-habit forming, non-toxic remedies. There are no contraindications to any healing modalities or drug protocols. Flower Essences are safe to use during competition. Supporting your horse’s emotional wellbeing is an important aspect of increasing their health and longevity. A horse that is well nourished emotionally will be happy and content will bring you great joy and partnership!

As mentioned in my introduction, it is often helpful for the owner to use the same essences as their horse. This is because of the uncanny ability of horses to reflect the emotions of their owners. I will explore this in more detail in another post.

I am currently in the process of writing a book on my observations of using flower essences on horses. If you have a story or a comment you would like to share, feel free to send me your photos and writings to include in the book. Until then, all the best!

Warmest wishes

Zoe

Remedies for Ringworm …

Ringworm is a highly contagious, fungal condition usually found on the head, saddle and girth areas of the body. The skin falls out and the skin is left scaly underneath. Multiple areas of crusty, scaly, hair loss break out, often in a circular pattern, healing first from the centre outwards. The centre may be healing while the outer part of the lesion is still spreading. The rings sometimes run together to form irregular blotches. These areas are rarely itchy, though can be. In the initial stages, small tufts of hair standing on end may be visible and when this hair then falls out, the skin below can form a scab that exudes serum. As this dries, the skin becomes dry and scaly. Lesions may originate on the head, neck or base of the tail and spread to any part of the body.

Horses can be infected from tack, grooming and saddlery equipment, stables, fences, vehicles and other animals (including rats etc). Transition between humans and horses and vice versa is also possible. Horses in poor condition, and young horses more commonly get this disease, and warm, humid conditions increases the likelihood.

Contaminated girths are the most common cause of spread in training stables and riding schools, where the sharing of equipment is common.

If your horse has ringworm, isolate them from people and other animals and disinfect their gear and tack.  Add 10 drops of concentrated Thyme Oil and Pine Oil to 5 litres of water to make a disinfectant for equipment. An iodine wash can also be used topically on the lesions. Anything coming in contact with a ringworm lesion should be disinfected or burned.

Ringworm often clears up if left alone, but the infection spreads very easily and is usually best treated topically on a daily basis for 1-2 weeks.

There are several different approaches to treating ringworm with natural therapies. Any one of the suggestions I am offering here will support your horse towards a speedier recovery. I would encourage a holistic viewpoint, including diet and topical remedies suggesting you explore whatever feels best for you and your horse.

Diet: A natural diet and good feed hygiene is recommended. Horses receiving insufficient Copper in their diet are particularly susceptible. Vitamin A and trace minerals of Copper and Zinc can be added to the feed to boost your horses resistance to skin infections.

Herbs: Treat the affected areas with Thuja or Vitamin A ointment to assist hair regrowth and to promote skin health.  Alternatively a home brew of garlic, lemons and apple cider vinegar can be made and applied once strained and cooled.

Mix equal parts of Burdock, Cleavers, Echinacea and Yellow Dock and feed morning and night, to encourage hair growth and immunity.

General Tip: Plastic bridles and girth sleeves can be washed in warm soapy water and disinfected daily to prevent infection.

Good grooming, separation of affected animals, careful cleaning of grooming tools and equipment and overall good nutrition and condition are the best measures for preventing ringworm in a stable.

Be aware that some allergy rashes can look a lot like ringworm infection. For example, the uneven shedding of hair in mares due to hormone balance and allergic reactions that may not in fact be fungal in nature.

Tissue Salts: I would suggest 2 Tablets of Kali Sulph twice daily to support your horse’s immune system and resist further spreading of the condition.

Kali Sulph is a good tissue salt for the maintenance of healthy skin, hair and mucous membranes. It is involved with the third stage of inflammation.

The tissue salt Kali Sulph has an affinity for cells forming the lining of the skin and cells forming the internal mucous lining of all internal organs. Together with Ferrum Phos, Kali Sulph carries oxygen to the cells and tissues. A deficiency of Kali Sulph causes a lack of oxygen leading to chilliness, flashes of heat and shifting pains in the limbs. A deficiency causes a yellow, slimy deposit on the tongue, yellowish or greenish discharge from any mucous surfaces and epithelial or epidermal scaling. It is known as the skin salt and cell oxygenator. It is valuable in the treatment of brittle hooves, purulent mucous and discharges, inflammation, thrush and fungal infections, crusty skin complaints and dry, flaky skin, cold weather colic, rattling chest infections and vague shifting leg pains.

Essential Oils: Essential oils can be very helpful for treating fungal conditions. Topical application of Aloe Vera gelcontaining 2.5% dilution of Tea Tree oil, for its fantastic anti-fungal properties can be rubbed onto infected areas. For slow to respond areas  you can add Geranium essential oil to your blend.

Homeopathics: If you are in to using homeopathics, Thuja 6C given twice daily can be a useful remedy for addressing Ringworm.

Additional Homeopathic options might be:

• Hydrocotyle 6C – exfoliation of scales (twice daily for 1 week)
• Bacillinum 200C – rough, dry skin (once per week for 3 doses)
• Sepia 1M – unpleasant odour (once per week for 4 doses)
• Pix liquida 6C – scaly and itchy eruptions (twice daily for 1 week)

Flower Remedies: The flower remedies are useful for addressing the emotional aspect of disease, and they will help your horse to feel more emotionally balanced. Select one of these remedies and add to your horse’s water or feed. Alternatively add 6-8 drops into a Aloe Vera base, or into Tea Tree oil and apply topically to your horse’s skin lesions.

Crab apple, Mimulus, Aspen and Holly are good remedies in the Bach Flower Range.

In the Australian Bush Flower Range: Billy Goat Plum, Green Essence, Spinifex, Mulla Mulla,and Emergency Essence(cream or spray) can all be beneficial during an episode of ringworm. Billy Goat Plum is indicated for all skin conditions in horses and it is particularly helpful where there is itchiness or fungal problems. Green essence with Peach Flowered Tea Tree is also an extremely good combination for fungal conditions. Do not give Green essence both internally and externally at the same time.

There is much more depth that could be gone into with this topic, however the application of these remedies will start you on your journey and stand you in good stead for healing your horse’s ringworm.

Look forward to hearing your experiences,

Zoe