New Press Release

Tips in conditioning stag for derby

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Sat, 03 Mar 2012 04:22:08 PST

Cockfighters readily admit that it’s more challenging to condition stags for battle than the matured ones to compete in derby, because stags are generally unpredictable, and they are not fully matured. Below are some conditioning tips from one of the country’s most celebrated gamefowl breeders and probably the most phenomenal stag fighter ever Sonny Lagon, who generously shared his stag conditioning secret.

Conditioning Guide and Basic Tips During Training
by Sonny Lagon (Blue Blade Farm)

1. Scratching

There are different materials used as scratch for light and heavy work outs. Banana leaves can be used for light scratching and corn husks for heavy scratching. Make sure that your fighting stags are hungry during scratching at the scratch box so you will get better results.

2. Light and Sound (Noise )

Make the fighting stags familiar with the lights by doing walking routine around the spar pit (rueda) and playing loud sounds on the radio to make them familiar with the noise during fight day or derby day.

3. Tailing ( kahig) and Breaking ( Salida)

Warm up your fighting stags by tailing (kahig) and walking, so that they will develop natural strength and improve their stamina by breaking ( salida). Hold tail of fighting stags and make them fly and hit each other by breaking on the air and down the ground. This helps develop their reflexes and good fighting skills.

4. Sparring (salpok)

Spar the fighting stags to roosters with different fighting styles and different colors like white , grey, black etc. in order for the fighting stag to be familiar with different color of feathers and for them to adopt versatile fighting styles. Sparring will help them learn and develop various fighting techniques and make them clever fighters.

5. Catch Cock

Using our own made catch cock ( made with jute sack, foam and used clothes ), we practice the stags to strike on air and on the ground before feeding in the morning and in the afternoon. By doing this, it will help your fighting stags develop endurance and stamina and they will learn to strike with their legs frontally, sideways and back as well as cutting across etc.

6. Rotation ( Tee-Pee , Flying Pen and Grass Pen)

Make your conditioning as natural as possible .

SCHEDULE :

6 : 00 a.m. :

- all fighting stags are on their respective tee-pees. we do the “catch cock” training at the tee-pee by using our self-made catch cock material (you may used asil rooster as alternative catch cock because they can withstand the pain despite repetitive hits.)

7: 00 a.m. :

We feed fighting stag using a balance diet of 50% conditioning pellets (Thunderbird Platinum) and 50% grains with some additional vitamins and iron.

10:00 a.m. :

We transfer the fighting stags in flying pens. This will help them build strength and power in their wings.

2:00 p.m. :

From flying pens, we transfer them again to grass pens. We seldom put pellets along with them inside the grass pens to make them more mature , grass pen will make them relax.

4:00 p.m. :

From grass pens we put them back to tee-pees and resume catch-cock routine.

5:00 p.m. :

Feeding time

9:00 p.m. :

We bring them one by one to the spar pit (rueda) for light & sound familiarization. By using a teaser rooster, we train them to be alert all the time. After a light workout by walking around the pit, do a “ kahig “ or do a “ salida “ and allow them two buckles while holding on to their tails. After this, wash their feet and faces and place them again at their teepees for them to have enough rest and be ready for the next morning work-out again.

Important Reminders :

• Make sure to deworm again your fighting stags (12) twelve days before the fight.
• Delouse at least (4) four days before the fight.
• Stop all vitamins (5) five days before the fight.

Sweater Fighting Cocks Bloodline

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 17:15:27 PST

Article courtesy of One of the breeds of gamefowl most in demand today are the “Sweaters”. There are several versions of how they originated. The following acccount of their origin is “straight from the horse’s mouth”. It comes from Johnny Jumper and another respected cocker who knew the parent fowl; when, where and by whom they were bred. The following is their version how the Sweaters originated. Sweater McGinnis gave Walter Kelso a yellow legged Hatch cock whose bloodlines are thought to trace back to Harold Brown’s McLean Hatch. Mr. Kelso bred this cock to his Kelso hens and the offspring from the mating proved to be outstanding pit cocks. Cecil Davis, who was a friend of Mr. Kelso, walked cocks for him and had access to Mr. Kelso’s best fowl. Cecil got one of the cocks which Mr. Kelso raised from the Sweater McGinnis Hatch cock and his own hens. Cecil got this cock from Doc Robinson, who also walked cocks for Mr. Kelso. The cock was yellow legged and pea combed. Cecil bred him to five of his out-and-out Kelso hens. The offspring from this mating were the foundation of the Sweaters. They were called Sweaters because the Hatch cock from Sweater McGinnis was their grandfather. As the above indicates, in breeding, they would be ¾ Kelso-¼ yellow legged Hatch. The original Sweaters were bred by Ira Parks, who was Johnny Jumper’s brother-in-law, a very fine man and an excellent breeder of gamefowl. Ira, Johnny and Cecil were at the hub of a group of cockers in northern Mississippi and Tennessee who were friends and cocking partners. Several of this group got Sweaters from the original mating. Some of these friends have bred the Sweaters without addition of outside blood and have them in their purity today. Other breeders have added infusions of other blood to their Sweaters. The line of Sweaters which is bringing the breed such popularity today came from Roy Brady, who got some of the first mating of Sweaters, to Sonny Ware, to Odis Chappell, to Carol Nesmith and the Browns of Mississippi. Odis Chappell let a number of friends in addition to Carol, have his Sweaters, so the blood has been distributed rather widely in central Alabama in recent years. It has been excelent blood for all who got it. This line of Sweaters produces occasional green legged offspring, usually pullets. When asked about his, Roy Brady said that at one time some Hatch was bred into this line. This line is said also to carry small amount of Radio blood. The Sweaters described in this article are typically orange-red to light red in color, with yellow legs and pea combs. Of interest, however, Dolan Owens of Booneville, Mississippi, acquired some of the early Sweaters and has bred them to come uniformly dark, wine red in color, straight comb and white legged. In looks, these two lines of Sweaters show almost no resemblance. This is an example of how a family of fowl can be bred toward different standards by different breeders and In a few generations the two lines will be like two different breeds. Sonny Ware bred some Radio into the Sweaters making them pumpkin in color. Most people like this color better and breed to that end.

Pointing of Fighting Cocks

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Thu, 01 Mar 2012 01:19:25 PST

Below are some tips on pointing fighting cocks. Pointing of fighting cocks is very important. If you do not know on how to handle your fighting cock during the fight day, your chances of winning are low.

Morning, before submission of weights, before feeding, limbers the cocks in folding scratch-pens and observes their droppings. Wait until the cock passes his stool before weighing him.

For each cocks weight, subtract 30-50 grams and submit this to the cockpit as the weights of your entries. Bad weight or weight 40 grams over your declared weight is fined during derbies. The cock loses weight during pointing and 30 grams is more or less safe margin for this.

For example, if your actual weight is 2.1 kg. subtract 30 grams from that and declare 2.070 kg. as the weight of your entry, 2.110 kg is your bad weight. On the time of fight, your cock will surely weight less than 2.1 kg. because of pointing. Even if your cock does not lose weight during pointing, you are still in the allowable weight limit.

Time of fight is also important. A cock will digest his normal feed in 6 to 8 hours and fully absorbs the nutrients in another 4 to 6 hours. So, try to know your fight schedule to program your feeding time beforehand. If your fight is 6 pm, count 6 to 8 hours backwards (about 12 noon) and feed your cock ½ his regular ration of pointing feed. By 6 pm, he must be empty and on point.

When pointing, it is better to under feed than to over feed. Fell the cocks crop and see that it is nothing in it. If a grain or two can be observed, feed less than ½ his normal ration. Empty crops don’t mean that the gizzard and other digestive organ are also empty. To be sure that no feed still exist in the cocks body, feed less. Now comes the essential part of pointing, moisture. Once in the cockpit, rest the cocks for at least 30 minutes before giving 3 to 5 dips of water. This will encourage bowel movement. Moisture can be gauge only by observing the cocks droppings. There are 4 stages or sequence that occur with the cocks droppings when we conduct pointing procedures. First is the usual moist and firm dropping, which must be seen in the morning just before weighting the cock and after the last feeding. Next, when the cocks has emptied his gut of the fibers and other waste materials from the feeds, you will observe what I call cecal droppings. This is the brown sticky smelly kind of droppings the cock pass from time to time during the keep. But now, cecal dropping is an indication of emptying out of the intestines. You will also observe that some moist green droppings with white toppings still come out but are increasingly getting smaller. When the cock is really empty (from the crop of the large intestines), what I call moisture droppings will appear. This look like whitish mucus about two (2) inches in diameter. They become smaller as pointing progresses. The cock may be said to be on point when the size of moisture droppings are as small as a twenty-five (25) centavo coin and a little bit sticky.

To extend pointing, feed a few grains of cracked corn or ¼ teaspoon of pointing feed a few hours before limbering.

21-days fighting cocks Conditioning

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 15:32:21 PST

Cockers condition their fighting cocks into 21-days or 14-days conditioning. Conditioning fighting cocks need more time. Your battle cocks need exercise, proper nutrition, and vitamins during the conditioning period. Some cockers use the rotation method or table exercise and others combine the rotation method and table exercise in conditioning their fighting cocks. The conditioning method that I am going to discuss here is a 21 days conditioning method and uses the rotation method. The candidate fighting cocks to be condition in 21 days have already passed in pre-conditioning stage. It is also assumed that you have already de-wormed and delouse your fighting cock prior to this 21-days conditioning.

Day 1:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- Inject 0.5ml Complexor
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 2:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 3:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM Spar them 1 to 2 buckles only under the light
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 4:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 5:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 6:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 7:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM Spar them 1 to 2 buckles only under the light
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 8:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 9:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give Aminoplex 1 table
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 10:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give Aminoplex 1 tablet
- Delouse your fighting cock
- At 10:00AM put them in the flying pen
- Deworm your fighting cock (lunch time)
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 11:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM Spar them 1 to 2 buckles only under the light.
- Inject respigen B15 0.25ml (Evening)
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 12:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 13:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- Inject 0.3ml complexor
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 14:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- Inject respigen B15 0.25ml (Evening)
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 15:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 16:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 17:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- 20 flys
- Chord and Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- Inject respigen B15 0.25ml (Evening)
- 20 flys
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 18:

- delouse using shampoo only
Start carboloading. Carboloding means give the cock more carbohydrates. Give them 75% crack corn 25% pellets
No exercise
Keeping period
Inject 0.3ml Complexor
- Limit water intake into 8-dips morning
- Limit water intake into 8-dips afternoon

Day 19:

Carboloading. Give them 80% crack corn 20% pellets
No exercise
Keeping period
Give them Voltplex KQ (morning)
- Limit Limit water intake into 8-dips morning
- Limit water intake into 8-dips afternoon

Day 20:

- No exercise
- Keeping period
- Carboloading. Give 90% crack corn 10% pellets
- At 4:00PM give them 1 capsule Votlplex KQ
- Inject respigen B15 0.25ml (Evening)
- Limit water intake into 8-dips morning
- Limit water intake into 8-dips afternoon

Day 21: Fight Day

- At 6:00AM feed them and give 1 capsule of Voltplex KQ
- Carbo loading give 95% crack corn 5% pellets
- Limit water intake into 8-dips morning

Melsim Black – Gray Crosses

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Sun, 26 Feb 2012 18:24:00 PST

This breeding season, I want to try to breed my melsim black gray fighting cock to my butcher hens. The expected offspring of these crosses will compose of ¼ melsim black, ¼ gray, and ½ butcher. I believe that the cross-breeding between melsim black gray and butcher will produced a high winning percentage. Melsim black fighting cocks are very good shuffler, butcher are good side stepper, and gray fighting cocks are brainy.

In order to produce an ace cock, fighting cocks must be care properly. From the time they are born, you should give proper care, vitamins, vaccine, and feedings. As they grow, fighting cocks also needs exercise. It is good to give your fighting cocks access to grass. Delouse and de-worm your fighting cocks regularly.

Pre-conditioning of your fighting cocks is also a big factor if you want to have a high winning percentage. Some breeder give their fighting cocks a pre-conditioning feeds starting at the age of 5-months and up and give a B-12 or B-complex vitamins.

Aside from mentioned factors above to achieve a high winning percentage, handler is also important. Your handler is responsible of conditioning your cock and he is also the one who is in charge in pointing during fight day. The role of a gaffer is also important. If your gaffer is not good, surely you will loss in the game of cockfighting. So, in order to achieve high winning percentage, your fighting cock need proper care, proper foods and vitamins, find a good handler, and a good gaffer.

Conditioning fighting cocks–14 days

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Thu, 23 Feb 2012 01:38:10 PST

Every cocker has its own method on how to condition their fighting cocks. Conditioning fighting cocks is one of the important aspects in cock fighting. Even if you have the best blood line or the best fighting cock but your conditioning method is not good your probability of winning is low. Conditioning a fighting cock needs more time. Fighting cocks needs exercise, proper nutrition, and vitamins.

The conditioning method that I am going to discuss here is a 14 days conditioning method. The candidate fighting cocks to be condition in 14 days have already pass in pre-conditioning stage. What is preconditioning stage? It is you feed your cock well, give them exercise and vitamins regularly (inject B12 or B-Complex like Sagupaan Complexor every 15th day) starting from the time you chord them up to the time you are going to condition them.

Note that you should deworm and delouse your cock prior to the 14-days conditioning
-    Give pakway 1 tablet (delouse oral)
-    Give 1 drop of Oxyrid eye dewormer for every eye
-    In delousing your fighting cock do not dip them just use sprayer

Day 1:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- Inject 0.5ml Complexor
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 2:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 3:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 4:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- Inject respigen B15 0.25ml (Evening)

- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 5:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 6:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 7:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- Inject respigen B15 0.25ml (Evening)
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 8:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 9:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 10:

- At 4:30AM limber your cock in a scratch pen with dry banana leaves (under the light).
Throw some crack corn(4pcs only) so that he will start scratching.
- Feed your cock at 6:00AM
- Give them Aminoplex 1 tablet
- At 8:00AM put them in the flying pen
- At 4:00PM Chord them and give there afternoon feeding
- At 7:00PM limber them in a scratch pen under the light. Throw some crack corn to
   encourage them to start scratching for 20 minutes.
- Inject respigen B15 0.25ml (Evening)
- At 7:30PM chord them and let them to rest

Day 11:

Start carboloading. Carboloding means give the cock more carbohydrates. Give them 75% crack corn 25% pellets
No exercise
Keeping period
Inject 0.3ml Complexor

Day 12:

Carboloading. Give them 80% crack corn 20% pellets
No exercise
Keeping period
Give them Voltplex KQ (morning)

Day 13:

No exercise
Keeping period
Carboloading. Give 90% crack corn 10% pellets
At 4:00PM give them 1 capsule Votlplex KQ
Inject respigen B15 0.25ml (Evening)

Day 14: Fight Day

- At 6:00AM feed them and give 1 capsule of Voltplex KQ
- Carbo loading give 95% crack corn 5% pellets

Hatch Gray Butcher Crosses

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Wed, 22 Feb 2012 00:55:31 PST

Gamefowl breeding is more of challenges; it needs more time and money. But it is very satisfying when you can come up with fighting cocks that can give you higher winning percentage. I am new in breeding fighting cocks and I am going to start breeding them. I will use out-crossing and cross breeding methods. My foundation blood lines are butcher, gray, and hatch bloodline.

I am going to out-cross my gray fighting cock to a gray hen coming from another breeder, and called the offspring as G. Then my butcher cock will be out-cross to the butcher hen coming from another breeder and I will called the offspring as B. The result produce in out-crossing the butcher fowl (B) will be cross breed to a hatch hen, and then I will call its offsping as BH. And finally, I will cross breed offspring G to offspring BH and called the output as HG Butcher.

HG Butcher is my new gamefowl bloodline. It’s composition is ¼ hatch, ½ gray, and ¼ butcher bloodline. I am going to test the offspring later to see the results. If this can give me a higher winning percentage in the pit then I will continue to breed them, otherwise if it is not then I will change my breeding system.

It will take many years to produced your own winning bloodline. It is just like you are experimenting or doing some research about gamefowl or fighting cocks. If my hatch gray butcher crosses will be successful I will update you all.

Fighting Cocks Bloodlines

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Sun, 19 Feb 2012 21:08:09 PST

The following fighting cocks bloodlines are considered the basic bloodlines, which are commonly used by breeder in game fowl or fighting cocks breeding:

• Butcher

Phil Marsh is credited for creating the Butcher bloodline, which is a blend of Grove White Hackle and some Spanish fowl, the Speeder Grays. Calling them Butchers because of his occupation, Phil Marsh often fought under the entry name “Butcher Boys”.
Butchers are straight-combed red that often come white-legged with some coming yellow-legged. They are known for their accurate cutting ability and brainy fighting style, leading many experts to say “when a Butcher hits you, you are hit”. Medium to low-stationed, Butchers sometime come spangled and brass back in color, with the latter presently called Black Butchers.

• Lemon 84

Originated by the legend Paeng Araneta, Lemon 84 has become the base used by most Bacolod breeders. Until presently, this line is still winning. Basically from the Hatch-Butcher-Claret blends of the late Duke Hulsey, Paeng has been able to create subfamilies from the original stocks.

Lemon 84 (called as such because the original brood cock had leg band number 84) comes lemon hackled, pea combed or straight-combed and yellow and green-legged. Although lacking in gameness, Lemon 84 makes up for it with its almost automatic, instinctive and precise sense of timing when it clips the opponent in mid-air and throws his fatal punches or counterpunches. This is its most sought-after trait despite its medium or low station.

• Regular Grey

Regular Grey is said to be a combination of three grey families: the Law Grey, the Sweater Gray and the Plain head Muff Grey. Regular Grays come green legged, sometimes with yellow, silver duck wings and straight comb. They are medium to low-stationed, and are known for power and gameness. Breeders note that they are as powerful and dead game as the Blue faces. Because of these, many breeders have made Regular Grey as their foundation line.

• Roundhead

Pea combed, tall and white or yellow legged, and Roundheads are considered as ring generals. They are characteristically flyers and agile all-around athletes with superb cutting ability. The most famous among the many Roundheads is the Lacy Roundhead, originated by Judge Lacy. There are other Roundhead families like the Burners, Shelton's, Allen and Boston. It is widely believed that this family originated from the oriental fowl. They cross well with Clarets, Butchers, Grays, and of course, Hatches.

• Oriental

Shamos, Asils, Japs, Thais, Jolo, Basilan, Parawak – these are just some of the many types of oriental fowl. They are big headed, light-eyed, heavy boned, short and tight feathered and thickly shanked chickens. Very brainy and hardy, these chickens use an off-beat fighting style which twits the aggressive American type of game fowl. Accurate body hitters and smart side-steppers, sails are usually graded up to an eighth or even a sixteenth with the American fowl in the hope of retaining the desirable cutting and off-beat traits of the Orientals in the resulting battlecrosss. Either you love them or you hate them – that’s the Oriental Fowl.

• Sweater

Today, one is not considered “in” if he is not breeding the Sweater fowl. Yellow legged, pea combed high stationed, sleek body conformation and with their characteristic pumpkin-orange hackle feathers and swarming offensive fighting style – Sweaters were popularized in the Philippines by Carol NeSmith who won the World Slashes International Derby back to back. As with many families, the origin of Sweater is mired by so many versions, some even contradictory. However, it is commonly accepted that this blood, as originated by Sweater McGinnis, is heavy on the Kelso blood. Today, the more well known Sweaters are those which come from Dink Fair, Bruce Barnette, Nene Abello, Sonny Lagon, Atty. Jun Mendoza, Raffy Campos and Edwin Aranez, Bebot and Chionkee Uy, among many others.

• Kearney White hackle

Kearney White hackle is one of the most solid bloodlines used as foundation stocks because of its unquenchable do-or-die gameness. Straight-combed red with the characteristic white under hackle feathers, the Kearney White hackle comes yellow legged and sometimes spangle-feathered. This bloodline is one of the gamest among the many White hackle subfamilies and is used only for infusion purposes to prop up any floundering bloodline.

• Blue face Hatch

The Blue face Hatch, a special strain of Hatches, came to be known as such because of its pale-faced appearance, which is similar to the appearance of a fowl with Avian Leucosis. Blue face Hatches are so good that their originator, Sweater McGinnis, decided to breed them some more, with some ending up with Harold Brown, Billy Ruble, Red Richardson, Percy Flowers, and William Greene and other American cocking greats. Straight-combed, green-legged and medium to low stationed, Blue faces have carved a reputation for gameness. Used mainly for foundation blood purposes, old time breeders agree that the best battle cross carries only a quarter or less of the Blue face blood.

• Muff

Eerie looking because of the feathers on its face, the Muff is known for its aggressive frontal fighting style. Muffs throw a barrage of blows with no letup or billhold. Although low-stationed, Muffs have an unerring sense of accuracy when it comes to the cutting department. Basically red in color, they come yellow-legged and pea combed. Noted breeders of this family are Billy Ruble, John Sears and Dr. John Kozura.

• Pyle

Pyle is a plumage color that denotes one that is not red, grey or black. Pyles come white, blue, dom, off-white, off-grey or off-red colors. They are white-legged or yellow-legged and straight or pea combed.

They are known for their high flying style and accurate cutting. Many are not deep game as Hatch or White hackle, but there are Pyles that are as game. Currently, they are crossed with the sturdy and hardy lines to hopefully strike the perfect blend of fighting characteristics.

• McLean Hatch

Modern Hatches are more high flying and are faster, many coming more brainy than usual. Their usual characteristics like power and gameness, though, are still there, their blows often packing a wallop. They are basically medium-stationed and pea combed with some coming straight combed.

The Hatch blood came form Sanford Hatch who blended, as story goes, a Kearney White hackle with a Kearney Brown Red, mixing in other bloods like the Herman Duryea Boston Roundheads, Jim Thompson Mahoganies, among others, to come up with his signature Hatch fowl. From the Sandy Hatch stocks came Ted McLean’s version of Hatch that came both yellow and green-legged. Supposedly, these were the better Hatches that gave rise to the other variants of the McLean like Gilmore Hatch, Blue face Hatch, Jack Walton Hatch, Kentucky Hatch, Oak grove Hatch, etc.

• Brown Red

Brown Red has speed and more speed, with cutting to boot – the advantage of this dark fowl. Coming dark-legged, dark-eyed and with characteristic black feathering, this family is a sight to behold, since Brown Reds show more of the razzle-dazzle shuffling action type of fighting, although their drawback is their seeming lack of gameness and stamina. However, because of other infusions made by breeders, there already are Brown Reds that are game enough, lasting for more than 10 minutes. In the drag fight, these fighters are defensive and very calculating, uncharacteristic of a typical Brown Red.

Butcher Bloodline - Fighting Cocks

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Tue, 14 Feb 2012 16:58:00 PST

Butcher bloodline is a result of crosses between White hackle fowl and Spanish Speeders. This comes out with a faster version of white hackle fowls. This family of game fowl lovers developed a fast breaking red game fowl that up to this date is very important breed, that when blended into the new models of game fowl, would improve the winning percentages of the cross.

This butchers are quite unpopular these days because of; 1. Their low station, although their long thighs and short shanks make them deadly at the draw; 2. Deep keeled, almost slab sided, those familiar with them, gives that extra kick that makes the difference between a win and lose in the board. The butcher game fowl was originated by the Marsh family namely, Phil Marsh (1869-1945), Bill Marsh (1894-1977), Alfred Marsh (1897-1971), Phil Marsh II (1918-1995).

BUTCHERS OF TODAY

IF YOU LOOK AT A LEMON 84 OR ANY OF ITS DERIVATIVES, YOU ARE LOOKING INTO A MODIFIED BUTCHER,
A) STRAIGHT COMBED;
B) LOW TO MEDIUM STATION;
C ) LOW SET WINGS THAT MEETS AT THE BACK;
D) DEEP KEELED;
E) GREAT CUTTERS
F) LIGHT LEGGED, MOSTLY WHITE LEGGED AND SOME COME YELLOW LEGGED

AMERICANS WHO HAVE SUCCESSFULLY BRED & MAINTAINED THE BUTCHERS

A) WIILLIAM T GREENE;
B)BILLY RUBLE;
C) ROGER ROBERTS;
D) OSCAR AIKENS;
E) HAROLD BROWN;
F) KIT SKIN;
G)RAY HOSKINS;
H) HARRY LEE STROUTH;
I) TOBBY BROWN;
J) SCOTTIE TAYLOR;
K) RED BOGGS;
L) JACKIE PHIPPS

Conditioning fighting cocks

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 20:41:40 PST

Conditioning fighting cocks is not easy. You need more time in order to condition fighting cocks. The first thing that you are going to do in order that you can get a good winning percentage in cock fighting is you are going to take good care of your fighting cocks. You need to take good care of them from the time they are hatch up to the day when they are going to pit. Give your fighting cock vitamins regularly, proper foods for them, and regular exercise.

In conditioning your fighting cocks, you can apply natural conditioning method. Natural conditioning method means you are going to condition your fighting cocks naturally. At 4:00 in the morning put your fighting cocks in scratch pen for 20 minutes. The scratch pen should have a plywood floor and you can use dried banana leaves, corn leaves for scratching. Throw some oats or crack corn so that your fighting cocks will do some scratching. At 6:00 am chord your fighting cocks. At 7:00 am feed your fighting cocks. At 10:00 am put your fighting cocks in a flying pen. At 3:00 pm chord your fighting cocks. At 4:00 pm feed your fighting cocks. At 7:00 pm limber your fighting cocks under the light for 20 minutes if possible with music or noise so that your fighting cocks will be familiar with light and noise. Do these for 21 days, give vitamins to your fighting cocks B-Complex injectable (Complexor 3000 0.5cc every 12 days). Give them proper foods, Start carbo loading three days before the fight. Inject 0.3cc complexor 3000 3days before fight. Deworm and delouse your fighting cocks on the first day of your 21 days conditioning.

Best fighting cocks crosses

noreply@blogger.com (Sonny) — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 17:29:42 PST

I love fighting cocks, this is the sports that I love. Visiting my game farm every weekend helps me to release my stress. I have a question in my mind, what is the best fighting cock crosses? To answer that question, I do some research and I found out that the following are some of the best fighting cock crosses, Hatch - Grey crosses, Butcher - Roundheads crosses, Hatch - Dom crosses, Kelso - Radio crosses, Butcher - Grey Crosses.

To produce a superior battle cock, a breeder must give much time to them from the breeding time up to the fight day. It is necessary to give vitamins (B12 or B-Complex) every 15 days and give proper nutrition to your fighting cocks. Exercise is also important to your fighting cocks, usual deworming and delousing is also needed. And lastly, always remember that the health of your fighting cocks is very important. A healthy fighting cocks has a greater advantage compared to the sick one.

I believe that even if your crosses of your fighting cocks is the best, but if their health is not good (lack of vitamins and nutrients intake) they will not perform good, so giving of vitamins and proper foods to your fighting cocks is very important.

Pre-conditioning to your fighting cocks is also important. Pre-conditioning means you give proper vitamins and foods to your fighting cocks from the day they where born up to the fight day. Not only giving them vitamins and condition them if there is a schedule fight for them.