Nibbles & Bites

Almond Clouds for Passover

2010-03-30T15:44:00.001-04:00

Last night I was invited to the home of a dear friend for Passover Seder. I might have been raised Catholic, but I know enough about Passover to know the food rules, which left me in a bit of a dilemma. As a cook, I never go to anyone's home without bringing something from my own kitchen. So what to do? Flourless chocolate cake just seemed too common. So after scouring through recipes I came up with a winner - Almond Clouds. They're easy, don't take much time, and were a huge hit!

10 ozs almond paste
1 cup sugar
1/4 teaspoon sugar
2 large egg whites
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
1/8 teaspoon fiori di sicilia (available from King Arthur flour) you can also substitute lemon oil or additional almond extract

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.

In the bowl of a stand mixer with paddle attachment, mix the almond paste, salt and sugar until crumbly. In a small bowl beat the egg whites until frothy (they will be easier to add to the almond paste mixture). With the machine running, gradually add the frothy egg whites. Then add the extracts. You should have a sticky "dough". Drop the dough by scant tablespoons on a parchment lined baking sheet. Make 3 small indentations in each cookie with your finger (it makes for a pretty design) and cover each with a generous sprinkling of powdered sugar. Bake in a 350 degree oven on the middle rack for about 20 minutes, until the edges are a little brown. Remove from the oven and let cool on the baking tray.
Makes approximately 30 cookies.

Traditions in the Kitchen

2010-03-26T21:30:00.000-04:00

Everyone has a food memory. You know what I’m talking about - the smell or taste of something that transports you to another place in another time. Every year my mother makes the same Christmas cookies my grandmother always used to make. And even though my mother’s aren’t exactly the same, that comforting aroma floating out from the oven transports me to my grandmother’s apartment in the Bronx when I was just a little kid.
The scent brings me right back to her bedroom, where the cookies were laid out on clean white sheets on every available surface. My grandmother is in her housecoat, chuckling as everyone quibbles over how many cookies each sister or cousin could pack up and take home. Same with artichokes. I can’t see a stuffed artichoke without remembering my uncle sitting next to me every Sunday dinner ready to scoop up the artichoke heart I always left on plate. My favorite parts were the leaves and the stuffing!
Food is more than sustenance. It connects us to our families—to traditions passed from generation to generation. It brings us our memories with amazing clarity: the perfume of a baking pie, the sharp aroma of onions browning in butter—just close your eyes, and you’re lifted to a wonderful place.
I wonder, though, what will happen to these cherished traditions in a world of fast food and too-busy lives? What kitchen memories will our children’s children have if we live without those traditions now?
So many handed-down recipes may be lost forever unless we get into our kitchens and relive their wonders. Here’s my contribution now: a Crostata recipe that was passed to me from a wonderful Sammarinese lady who is no longer with us. Experience it in your own kitchen, enjoy it, and please pass it on.

4 cups Pastry or Cake Flour (14 oz)
10 Tablespoon Butter (5 oz)
1 Cup sugar (7oz)
2 Eggs
2 Egg Yolks
2 Teaspoons baking powder
2 Tablespoons sweet marsala
zest from one lemon
13 oz fruit jam or marmalade

Instructions: Put the flour into a mound on your counter. Cut up the butter into small pieces. With your hands rub the butter into the flour until the butter is the size of small pieces and is evenly distributed in the flour. Add the sugar and baking powder to the flour mixture. Make a well in the middle of your flour/butter/sugar mixture.
Put eggs, egg yolks, lemon zest and marsala in the well. Mix with a fork and gradually start to incorporate the flour mixture into the eggs. As the mixture comes together use your hands to form a dough. Do not overwork the dough or your crostata will be tough. Divide the dough in two - roughly 1/4 and 3/4. Wrap each piece in plastic wrap and let rest in the fridge for about 1/2 hour.
Remove both pieces from the fridge and unwrap the plastic. Sprinkle some flour on your counter and roll out the larger piece to about 10 inches in diameter. Place it in a tart pan with a removable bottom, or alternatively on a sheet pan (you can make the crostata free form if you don't have a tart pan).
Cover the crostata dough with jam. Then roll out the second piece of dough a little thinner than the first, and cut it into strips. Layer the strips on top of the jam in a criss cross pattern. Brush the crostata all over with beaten egg.
Bake in a 350 degree oven until the crostata is lightly brown all over, about 25 minutes.

Chocolate Decadence

2010-03-01T08:47:00.002-05:00

Sometimes you just need chocolate. Deep, dark, intense, I don't care how many calories are in it chocolate. It happens to the best of us. I've given up fighting that desire when it strikes. It's just not worth the battle, since I always lose. So I decided if I'm going to indulge, I'm going to INDULGE. And what's a better chocolate indulgence that a brownie? I went to one of my favorite websites these days, www.kingarthurflour.com, and while they have several different brownie recipes, I went for the basic and classic - fudge brownies. They did not disappoint.

Before I share the recipe with you - a word about chocolate. This recipe calls for double dutch dark cocoa (sold by King Arthur). If at all possible, do not substitute this item. The double dutch dark cocoa is a combination of dutch process cocoa and and extra dark black cocoa, which makes for a brownie so dark that at first look my husband thought they were burnt. If you just can't wait to get the double dutch dark cocoa, use a high quality dutch process cocoa, not unsweetened cocoa. The difference is in the acidity - dutch process is treated with an alkali to reduce natural acidity - regular unsweetened cocoa is not. That is why recipes using unsweetened cocoa call for baking soda, which when mixed with the acid in the cocoa results in leavening.......this is getting a little too scientific for me........
One more thing - use the espresso powder! It does NOT lend a coffee taste to the brownies, but enhances the chocolate flavor.

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter

2 1/4 cups sugar
4 large eggs
1 1/4 cups Double-Dutch Dark Cocoa or Dutch-process cocoa
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon espresso powder
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour

Directions

1) Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9" x 13" pan

2) In a medium-sized microwave-safe bowl, or in a saucepan set over low heat, melt the butter, then add the sugar and stir to combine. Return the mixture to the heat (or microwave) briefly, just until it's hot (about 110°F to 120°F), but not bubbling; it'll become shiny looking as you stir it. Heating this mixture a second time will dissolve more of the sugar, which will yield a shiny top crust on your brownies.

3) While the sugar heats a second time, crack the 4 eggs into a bowl, and beat them with the cocoa, salt, baking powder, espresso powder, and vanilla till smooth.

4) Add the hot butter/sugar mixture, stirring until smooth.

5) Add the flour, again stirring until smooth.

6) Spoon the batter into a lightly greased 9" x 13" pan.

7) Bake the brownies for about 30 minutes, until a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, or with just a few moist crumbs clinging to it. The brownies should feel set on the edges, and the center should look very moist, but not uncooked. Remove them from the oven and cool on a rack before cutting and serving.

Makes two dozen 2" brownies.

Good use of a snowy day

2010-02-10T17:03:00.000-05:00

Today it's snowing. And snowing. And snowing. Get the picture? It's REALLY snowing. I started off this snowy day with irritation. A haircut appointment that had to be cancelled and can't be rescheduled till next week. An appointment at the chiropractor that had to be cancelled, and my neck is already complaining. And worst of all, I'm supposed to be cooking at an event at Rustico (www.rusticocooking.com) and I had to cancel because it was impossible to travel into the city.
So I indulged in irritability for about an hour, and then decided there were plenty of ways to make use of this snowy, snowy day. And I headed for the kitchen.
Now I'm usually one to watch the calories when I bake - always looking for low fat, no fat, low calorie, healthy.......but I guess the cranky start to the day got the better of me, and I threw caution to the winds and broke out the butter to make a sinfully rich Cinnamon Streusel Swirl Coffeecake. The picture's not the best (lack of natural light on such a dreary day) but believe me, this cake's a keeper. I'm happy to share the recipe with you. It's adapted from King Arthur Flour, and it's worth every single calorie

Streusel topping
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon salt (if you use unsalted butter)
1 1/2 cups King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
6 tablespoons butter, melted
Filling
1 cup brown sugar, light or dark
1 1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder, Dutch process or natural
1/4 cup chopped pecans
Cake
3/4 cup butter
1 teaspoon salt (1 ¼ teaspoons if you use unsalted butter)
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1/3 cup brown sugar
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 large eggs
3/4 cup sour cream or plain yogurt
1 1/4 cups milk (anything from skim to whole)
3 3/4 cups King Arthur Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
Directions
1) Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a 9" x 13" pan, or two 9" round cake pans.
2) Make the topping by whisking together the sugar, salt, flour, and cinnamon. Add the melted butter, stirring till well combined. Set the topping aside.
3) Make the filling by mixing together the brown sugar, cinnamon, cocoa powder and chopped pecans. Note that the cocoa powder is used strictly for color, not flavor; leave it out if you like. Set it aside.
4) To make the cake: In a large bowl, beat together the butter, salt, sugars, baking powder, and vanilla until well combined and smooth.
5) Add the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition.
6) In a separate bowl, whisk together the sour cream or yogurt and milk till well combined. You don't need to whisk out all the lumps.
7) Add the flour to the butter mixture alternately with the milk/sour cream mixture, beating gently to combine.
8) Pour/spread half the batter (a scant 3 cups) into the prepared pan(s), spreading all the way to the edges. If you're using two 9" round pans, spread 1 1/3 cups batter in each pan.
9) Sprinkle the filling evenly atop the batter.
10) Spread the remaining batter atop the filling. Use a table knife to gently swirl the filling into the batter, as though you were making a marble cake. Don't combine filling and batter thoroughly; just swirl the filling through the batter.
11) Sprinkle the topping over the batter in the pan.
12) Bake the cake until it's a dark golden brown around the edges; medium-golden with no light patches showing on top, and a toothpick or cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, about 55 to 60 minutes for the 9" x 13" pan, 50 to 55 minutes for the 9" round pans. When pressed gently in the middle, the cake should spring back.
13) Remove the cake from the oven and allow it to cool for 20 minutes before cutting and serving. Serve cake right from the pan.

2010-01-29T08:19:00.000-05:00

Anyone who knows me knows that the only thing I like about winter is the food. I love warm, comfort food. My idea of the perfect Sunday in winter is putting up a huge pot of slowly simmering stock and letting the aroma waft through the house for the entire day. Or filling my slow cooker with beef short ribs and a hearty red wine. It’s truly the only thing that makes the cold weather bearable. And sometimes, it actually makes the cold weather fun for me. (yes, I am the one who stays back at the ski lodge drinking hot chocolate while everyone else is falling off their skis, getting cold, wet, snow in their boots, with red, runny noses.....but I digress)
However, after several months of cooking these comforting, soul-satisfying dishes, I start to get a little yearning for the lighter foods of warmer temperatures. Something a little cheery, reminding me of warm sunshine. And when I think of warm sunshine, I think lemon. So I decided to make a limoncello cake. Limoncello is a liqueur from southern Italy, made with Sorrento lemons, sugar and alcohol. It’s very refreshing when served chilled, and can be quite potent. The alcohol burns off in the cake, but if you prefer to have the cake without alcohol, simply substitute more lemon juice for the lemoncello.

So if winter is getting you down - hang in there. A little bit of lemony sunshine is sure to brighten your day!

8 servings

cooking spray
1 cup plain yogurt (I use non fat)
2 eggs
1/3 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice (about 1/2 of a juicy lemon)
2 tablespoons lemon zest (use a microplane)
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup limoncello liqueur
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1 pinch salt (optional)
3/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1 tablespoon limoncello liqueur
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon water

Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (175 degrees C). Prepare an 8-inch cake pan with cooking spray.
Whisk together the yogurt, eggs, olive oil, lemon juice, lemon zest, sugar, and 4 tablespoons limoncello in a large bowl. In a separate large bowl, mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Gently stir the dry ingredients into the wet. DO NOT OVER MIX or the cake will be tough. Pour batter into prepared pan.
Bake in the preheated oven until top is golden and a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean, about 35 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly.
Stir the powdered sugar, 1 tablespoons of limoncello, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of water together in a small bowl until smooth. Poke small holes all over the top of the still-warm cake with a fork or toothpick. Spoon the glaze over the cake and spread with the back of a spoon. The glaze will seep into the cake and add moisture.

Amount Per Serving Calories: 394 | Total Fat: 11.4g | Cholesterol: 55mg

2009-12-01T08:08:00.000-05:00

The word celebrate conjures up different images for most people. For some, it’s the image of party hats and streamers. For others, it’s the pop of a champagne cork. For me, it’s food. Birthday, anniversary, holiday - my first thought is ok, what should we cook! And at this time of year, that cooking becomes baking.
The world is divided into two types of people - those who cook, and those who bake. I am a cook. Sure, I have three or four dessert recipes that I make really well and always rely on, but baking really isn’t my thing. Except at Holiday time. That’s when I throw caution to the winds, break out the big Kitchen Aid mixer and place an order with King Arthur for 20 lbs. of flour (they really do have the best flour - kingarthur.com).
For some reason baking is more fun to do with family than cooking (I guess the aroma of gingerbread is more pleasing than garlic and onions), and everyone seems to gravitate to the kitchen when they hear the clanking of the measuring spoons, cups and bowls, in anticipation of a sweet treat.
These cookies are very simple, and not too sweet - perfect with a glass of milk or a cup of hot cocoa.
Brown Sugar and Spice Cookies

6 tablespoons butter, softened
2/3 cup dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon molasses
1 egg
1 3/4 cup flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
Topping:
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon allspice

Preheat oven to 350. Using a wooden spoon or a hand mixer, cream the butter and sugar until smooth. Add molasses and the egg, and mix well. In a separate bowl mix together the rest of the ingredients (flour through allspice). Mix the flour mixture into the butter mixture until you have a soft dough. Pinch off some dough and roll a ball between your palms about 1 inch in diameter, and place on a cookie sheet sprayed with cooking spray. Continue until all the dough is used up. (these cookies do not spread much so you can place them fairly close together) Gently press down on each ball with your palm so they’re slightly flattened. Sprinkle the topping mixture over the cookies, and bake approximately 10 minutes (check them after 8 minutes). Transfer the cookies to a rack to cool.
You can play with the spice in these cookies to suit your taste - too much “gingerbread”? - omit the molasses and reduce the ginger to 1 teaspoon. Want to sneak in some fiber for the kids? - reduce the white flour to 1 1/4 cups and add 1/3 cup whole wheat flour.

Feeding Friendship

2009-10-29T08:10:00.000-04:00

This week I have been reminded of how our friendships need to be fed - both literally and figuratively, both good and not so good.
My friend Charles has colon cancer. His diet now is something new to me, this non-residue diet that is the opposite of the way all of us strive to eat. No fiber, no whole grains, no beans, no raw fruit or vegetables. So I'm trying to research recipes for him, so he'll at least have something tastier than boiled chicken and white rice. Next week is his birthday party, and I'm thrilled to be doing the cooking. I'm feeding our friendship, literally and figuratively.
My friend George's father was hit by a car the other day, and is in the hospital. George's mother just had surgery on her shoulder and can't move her right arm (what's that saying - when it rains, it pours?). So yesterday I spent hours cooking for her so she'll have some food in her kitchen when she comes home from visiting at the hospital. I dropped the food off to her late yesterday, and her smile let me know I was feeding more than just her stomach.
Last night 7 of us went out to eat at Joe's Shanghai in Chinatown to celebrate my friend and co-worker Raquel's 30th birthday. It was a happy occasion made even happier by good food and great company. Raquel's delight at being with friends still has me smiling. (that's all of us at the top of the page)
When we cook for the people we care about, we're doing so much more than just providing sustenance, we're feeding and nurturing relationships that mean the world to us.
So cook something for someone you love. It doesn't have to be gourmet or fancy or unusual and different. And if you really can't bring yourself to turn on the stove, go out and break bread together. Just make sure no matter how you partake, you add a big heaping cup of caring.

I Love Soup

2009-10-21T09:40:00.001-04:00

I love soup. All kinds of soup. I love the big peasant ones, that are a whole meal with a loaf of crusty bread; I love the delicate creamy ones, like butternut squash with a swirl of creme fraiche. When I'm sick I crave the lemon, nutmeg and parmigiano "worms" that make up straciatella, or the lemony creaminess of a Greek Avogolemono. I love the smokiness of a rich split pea soup, and the smoothness of a carrot laden lentil soup. The list just goes on and on.
But the thing I enjoy most about soups is that they are truly easy. You can throw almost anything into a pot, add some liquid, put the burner on low simmer, and just walk away. An hour or so later (or maybe even less), you come back and voila - soup's on! On a lazy afternoon you can put up a huge pot (my pot is so big it actually has a spigot!), divide it into small containers and stock your freezer. You're set for weeks (maybe months). And making soup really gives one a sense of accomplishment. You start with all those raw ingredients, put in a little effort, and you've made something magical.
One of my absolute all time favorites is escarole and meatball soup. It still evokes memories of when I was a kid, and my mother would make me tiny fried meatballs to munch on while she made the soup. When I had my daughter I did the same for her, and she loved sitting in the kitchen, blowing on the meatballs to cool them, watching me make the soup that she then refused to eat! Not even meatballs could entice her to eat escarole soup. She doesn't know what she's missing.
So here's my recipe. Make it for someone you love, tiny fried meatballs and all.

1 large head of escarole, cut into 2 inch pieces
1 quart chicken stock
1/2 lb chop meat (I like to use a mix of pork, veal and beef)
1/4 cup parmigiano cheese
2 garlic cloves, finely minced
1 tablespoon chopped parsley (I use fresh, but you can use dried)
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1 large egg
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper

Make the meatballs: combine all ingredients except the escarole and the chicken stock in a bowl and mix well. With your hands, form 1 inch meatballs (and even tinier ones for your kitchen helper) Fry the meatballs in olive oil in the bottom of a heavy soup pot (I use Le Creuset) until golden. The larger meatballs will still be a little raw in the center and will cook through in the soup. Remove the tiniest meatballs for munching. Add the escarole and the chicken stock to the pot. Cover and simmer approximately 30 minutes, until the escarole is soft.
Serve with crusty bread and a dusting of parmigiano cheese.

Canellini beans make a good addition to this hearty soup. If you want a thicker, heartier soup, you can puree some of the beans with some of the chicken stock, and add the pureed mixture to the pot.

Kitchen Intimidation

2009-10-15T15:46:00.000-04:00

For years I've been afraid of pie crust. I know, such a small thing, but the idea of trying to making that dough come together with such a ridiculously small amount of water.........it made me cringe. So I'll come clean. I would buy Pillsbury Pie Crust. And I thought it was good. I even convinced myself it was better than any crust I could have made.
WRONG.
The other day I decided that being intimidated by flour, water and butter was embarrassing. And to be honest, I was tired of hiding the red Pillsbury box every time I made a pie. After studying about 40 different recipes for pie crust (researching before starting a new recipe is a real sickness), I put together my own recipe, took out the rolling pin and crossed my fingers. The crust came together beautifully, and best of all - it was EASY!
Here you go:

For the crust -
6 ozs all purpose flour (1 1/2 cups)
6 ozs cake or pastry flour (1 1/2 cups)
6 ozs cold butter, cut into pieces (1 1/2 sticks or 12 tablespoons)
2 ozs crisco (4 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon sugar
1/8 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar (or lemon juice)
1/2 cup (maybe less) very cold water

For the filling -
4 apples, peeled, cored and sliced (I used 2 Golden Delicious and 2 Honeycrisp)
2 tablespoons flour
1/4 cup brown sugar
1 tablespoon white sugar
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon all-spice
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees

Make the crust -
Mix the flours, sugar, salt and baking powder in a food processor, pulsing several times to incorporate. Add the butter and crisco and pulse several more times until the butter is the size of small peas. Add the cider vinegar and half the water, and pulse until the mixture ALMOST comes together. Use the rest of the water if needed.
Remove the dough from the processor, separate into 2 halves, and bring each half together, flattening each into a disc. Wrap each disc in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least one hour.

In the meantime, make the filling -
Mix the sugars, cinnamon, all-spice, ginger and flour until well incorporated and there are no lumps of brown sugar left. Sprinkle the mixture on the cut apples and mix well.

Remove one disc from the fridge, sprinkle some flour on your counter, and roll out the dough, taking care to roll from the middle out, and turn the dough a little bit each time you roll. Make sure you have enough flour under the dough so it doesn't stick to the counter.
Carefully place your dough in a 9" pie pan and fill with the apple mixture. Place this in the fridge while you roll out the second disc. The cover the apple mixture with the second dough and crimp the edges together, trimming the excess with a scissor if there's too much hanging over the sides. Cut some slits in the top to allow the steam to escape, and brush the top with egg wash.
Bake at 425 degrees for about 20 minutes, then lower the oven to 350 for about another 30 minutes. If the edges start getting too dark, cover them with aluminum foil.
Remove from the oven, let cool and enjoy!

Welcome

2009-10-15T14:37:00.000-04:00

So I've decided to blog. Not as easy as one would think.

I'm going to try to stick with what I believe in - which is, quite simply, that eating good (and good eating) is easier that most people think.
So I'll talk (or write I guess), and hopefully you'll comment, and we'll chat.
About eating.
About good eating.
About easy eating.
And anything else that comes up.

Welcome to my blog.