After making a big loop from Tokyo to Aomori and then down via Kanazawa to Kyoto, I made my way back to Tokyo with the Shinkansen.

The train, of course, arrived on time, and I arrived at Tokyo Station in the morning. After living here for a year, it felt good to be back in Tokyo with a few more days to revisit familiar places and faces before leaving Japan. I still had some luggage that I wanted to get rid of for the rest of the day, so I went straight down to the basement inside the ticket gate area, outside of the Shinkansen area, where you can find plenty of luggage lockers. It is a bit hard to find, but when you go to the Shinkansen South Transfer Gate in Tokyo Station, there is a staircase you can take down right to the area.

During the day, I had a work meeting in the north of Tokyo. After that was finished, I reunited with my friends from Switzerland. They were waiting for me near Shinjuku Station in a bar, and then we regrouped to find dinner.

Knowing that Shinjuku is very busy and full of overpriced restaurants, I directed the group to the west side of the station, and we moved beyond the crowds and the lights into a quieter area with a few restaurants. That is one of the things I like about Shinjuku: once you get past the first row of bright signs and the usual bar districts, there is still a different side to it hiding just beyond. “Few restaurants” was really the right way to say it, because we did not find many in the end that were not already full or did not take walk-ins. Then we found an izakaya at a street corner and just jumped on it to see what it was like. It turned out to be exactly the kind of place you hope to find once you leave the most obvious parts of Shinjuku behind: a Showa-era drinking hole for salarymen with a big menu and lots of smoke in the air. Even though that was a bit different from what we had been looking for, it was great fun and really felt authentic. This is how an evening in Shinjuku is supposed to be.

We were ready to go for a second round with karaoke, but we were clever enough to first take the train down to our hotel in Kanda before starting there. That way we could celebrate beyond the last train.

The next day we went to Ikebukuro for shopping, and I was also able to meet my friend from Gunma, who came down on his free day to meet up. We first had a nice coffee chat in a cozy cafe on the east side of Ikebukuro, not too far from Sunshine City. Then we hit up Sunshine City mall, which houses, for example, the Pokémon Center and many other shops, as well as an aquarium and observatory. We split up a bit, and the others queued up for the Pokémon Center to get some limited merch while I checked out some of the other stores. With empty stomachs and full bags, we had okonomiyaki and monjayaki together before heading to Animate for more shopping.

In the evening, I split off again to meet up with my university friends from Todai, and we went to a restaurant in Yanaka I had visited with them the last time before I left. It stayed in my memory for being exceptional both in service and food. Kiri, that is the name of the restaurant, specializes in eel dishes, and this time I invited everyone for a course dinner with many eel dishes. This restaurant really used every part of the eel, including the organs and even the bones. We had a great selection of appetizers, including roasted fish bones, omelette, and many other small dishes. The next course was a set of skewers with different unagi parts. The main dish was unaju or hitsumabushi, the famous dish of broiled unagi over rice.

On the third day, it was time for my companions to leave for Switzerland, but I still had a few more days in Tokyo, so we said our goodbyes at Tokyo Station. It was incredibly crowded because it was a long weekend and people were eager to move around the country.

I had an insane amount of luggage by this point, and I somehow managed to move both my suitcases and myself to the next hotel in Kamata, very far south in Tokyo, almost at the border with Kawasaki. I chose this hotel because it was very close to Haneda Airport, where I would depart two days later. It was convenient to make the final spurt from there. For lunch, I went to a Yokohama Iekei ramen chain called Kan 2 Ya. It was delicious and a line quickly formed.

I continued shopping because there were still so many things to buy and organize, and because being back in Tokyo also meant picking up the things I already knew I liked before leaving. I first went to Kappabashi to add a few more plates and pieces of china to the set I had started buying at the same shop last year. After that I went to Ginza, where I bought green tea and clothing from Uniqlo.

In the evening, I met the whole group from university this time, and we had a small party to celebrate me coming back as well as the publication we had authored together in the past year. The whole setup was slightly ridiculous in a way that felt very familiar: we sat in a seminar room at the university on a weekend evening, treated ourselves to some very expensive meat, and then saved on the rest so much that we did not even have real plates. It was great fun, and we shared Swiss beer and Japanese spirits. In a way, it also said a lot about academic work culture: even when there is something worth celebrating, people still somehow end up doing it half like a party and half like overtime. They also handed over an Advent calendar we had filled with chocolate for them to celebrate some European customs.

The next day was a Sunday, and I planned with one of my best friends and his partner from Tokyo to go for a hike. Funnily enough, we go back to my time in Kyoto. They had also recently moved to Tokyo, and they had not been to Ome yet, which is in the very west of Tokyo at the outskirts of the city. It took us two hours to get there from Tokyo Station, showing how vast Tokyo is. We treated ourselves to the Green Car, the first-class coach with reserved seats, which can be quite useful in these busy hours on the Chuo-sen. With your mobile Suica, there is a small discount, and the fare is about double, or 2,000 yen, for the whole distance from Tokyo Station to Ome. Over time, the city turned into a really rural landscape.

When we arrived, we hardly recognized Tokyo anymore. That is one of the things I like most about Tokyo: as huge as it is, it still has an edge, and from the center you can get out into proper nature surprisingly quickly. It was also great to show my friends that side of it. We were certainly not alone, and many enthusiastic hikers and climbers were exiting the train with us at Mitake Station. Among them were even boulderers with their own crash mats.

Instead of the bus, we walked to the cable car station. It turned out to be longer than I anticipated, and the road was mostly a car road, so it was not too pleasant to walk along it. But we made it to the station in just shy of one hour. We passed a long queue of cars waiting to get a parking spot near the cable car. To me, this seems quite pointless, because it stays crowded well into the afternoon. Therefore I really encourage everyone to come by train to access these hiking spots.

The cable car, on the other hand, runs frequently and, while it was not as steep as the Stoosbahn in Switzerland, it was quite a steep ascent with a transfer at the middle station towards the top of Mitake-san. Many people came with their dogs and looked like they were there to have a relaxed afternoon rather than a sporty mountain climb.

From the top station, we walked about a kilometer to reach the starting point of the hiking route, where Mitake Shrine is also located. Passing a street with many restaurants offering soba or udon, we also felt hungry at this point and sat down for a quick lunch. All the restaurants were full, but because we came rather late, we got a seat eventually. We ordered soba noodles and katsudon, as well as some nasu dengaku.

We then left the shrine for later and instead focused on the circular hike through the Rock Garden, which would take up to two hours. Because it was already rather late, a local guide warned us to be cautious about starting the hike because it might get dark before we finished it. However, his estimate was grossly pessimistic, and we finished after 90 minutes, half the time he anticipated. The hike was nice, taking us through a forest of pine trees and past the namesake rock gardens with many small and big boulders covered in moss and lined by mountain rivers. We even met a wild deer on the way.

After finishing the hike, we came to an observation point from where we could clearly see the outskirts of western Tokyo and Saitama Prefecture. We climbed more stone stairs to reach the shrine, which housed a variety of small sub-shrines with different animal statues, tigers, dragons, and foxes. We could just see the sunset over the mountains in the west.

This time we took the bus back to the station, and we just missed the train back, so we had time to try some local wasabi-based spread sold by an elderly lady in front of the station.

For dinner, we had reserved at a nice izakaya in Kagurazaka, but we still had a bit of time, so we stopped by Shinjuku Station to see the Christmas illumination. I found these illuminations quite tasteful and warm compared to the many others I have seen in Japan, which use blue or cold-toned LEDs instead.

For dinner we went to Chinchin in Kagurazaka. This izakaya was recommended to me by a friend in Tokyo before, and I remembered it being really delicious. This time again, it was hard to get seated; even with a reservation we had to wait a bit. But when we made it, the show started. The service was amazing, and they recommended many great things on the menu, which contains many classic favorites and modern takes on typical Japanese izakaya food. Next to the long menu of sake and shochu, there are also several cocktails on the menu. I, for example, enjoyed an ume sangria cocktail.

We started off with a selection of sashimi followed by katsusando, which is pork cutlet in a toast sandwich, but in this case there was more meat than bread in the sandwich. We also ordered the Correct Karaage according to the menu, as well as a tomato sesame dish and a piping hot stew on a hot stone plate. We finished the celebration with their iconic oden and a creme brulee that was on fire.

We finished the day with a short karaoke session next door and then finally said goodbye to catch our last trains. Kamata also seems to be a useful station to stay at in terms of late-night access, because the last Keihin-Tohoku Line stops at Kamata Station until half past 12.

And finally, the last day of this trip to Japan started. Fortunately, my return flight was in the late evening at 11 pm, so I still had a full day in front of me.

And since yesterday was not enough activity, I started off by going for a run. Two to three kilometers along the urban roads led me to the edge of Tokyo, where I could run along the riverside of the Tama River between Tokyo and Kawasaki. There were many enthusiastic baseball-playing kids on the fields and a few bicycle riders. On the way back, I passed by a JR train depot and got ready to do some more shopping on the last day.

Truth be told, my two bags were already full to the brim, and I did not have any weight or volume allowance left. But there were still so many things I wanted to pick up before leaving, mostly things I already knew I liked, so I bought them anyway and dealt with the repacking problem later.

First, a visit to Donki escalated as always. Then I headed to Aoyama next to Harajuku to explore some nice fashion shops, where I found a new pullover for myself. Then I headed once again to Ginza, where the main road is closed to cars on weekends. There I made my big Uniqlo purchase and also visited Loft for some stationery.

With way too many bags in my hand, I went to the post office to mail another parcel back to Switzerland. Then I went to the cinema to calm down a bit, which was a great idea. I watched the new Chainsaw Man anime movie, which I enjoyed a lot for the non-stop action.

I still had a bit of time left, so I quickly went to a local sento west of Kamata, which I had wanted to visit for some time already because I had read about it in the magazine. Hasanuma Onsen really gave me the vibe of a local, small sento that is hardly known by anybody who does not live in the area. From the receptionist, who made sure not too many people were in the small bath, to the wooden lockers for the shoes and the very rustic appearance in general, I really enjoyed that last soak. Going forward, I always have to go for an onsen on the last day before a long flight. It really revitalizes you.

Rushing back to Kamata, I had a few bites of yakitori and then finally made my way out to Haneda Airport, which was quite easy to reach from Kamata, and there was a reason why I chose it in the first place.

The airport was not really busy at this point, and most shops closed at 9 pm. So there was not really much to do anymore. In any case, I was quite short on time, which was completely fine. I just dropped off my bags and sped through security and border control. Close to the gate, there was a satellite shop of Ishiya, the maker of Shiroi Koibito, my favorite sweet from Japan, and they had some great merchandise beyond the cookies, including sticky notes, keychains, and cushions with their design. As a fan, I could not help but get a keychain next to the original sweets. I also made sure to load up on Tokyo Banana before finally making my way out.

The flight was quite pleasant again, and it was not super full, so I even had a free seat next to me. The pain started again when I retrieved my luggage in Zurich, which I then had to heave onto a luggage cart to bring it out of the airport. But because I arrived on a weekday and it was after rush hour, it was actually not too bad. I brought all my things back to Basel and finally unpacked everything I had carried home over the past weeks. In a way, that was the real end of the trip.

And this is it. Thank you for following this travel diary. I hope you enjoyed reading it and that it gave you a few ideas for trips of your own.

The post Shinjuku Backstreets, Eel in Yanaka and One Last Hike in Tokyo appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

We finished our grand journey from Aomori to Kanazawa in a little less than two weeks, and this felt like the end of one chapter of the trip. It also meant a short goodbye with my friends, because they were heading to Tokyo by Shinkansen. However, I took a different route and went south to Kyoto instead, to meet a good old friend of mine who lives and works in Osaka.

For context, I once lived in Kyoto for six months during a PhD exchange, and one of my friends from the lab back then is now a full professor at Osaka University. We made a plan to meet in the evening, but I tried to catch the earliest train possible so I could spend some time in Kyoto beforehand.

The trip from Kanazawa to Kyoto is straightforward. You first take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Tsuruga, which takes about one hour, thanks to the recent extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen beyond Kanazawa to Tsuruga in 2024. From there you still have to transfer at Tsuruga to the limited express Thunderbird, which reaches Kyoto in another hour. There are government plans to extend the Hokuriku Shinkansen further toward Kyoto and Shin-Osaka, but because the exact route is still under debate and construction has not yet begun, the extension will likely take many years before completion.

I arrived in Kyoto around noon and went straight to the department store at Kyoto Station, Isetan. After nearly two weeks of traveling through northern Japan, Kyoto felt both familiar and unexpectedly busy. Compared to my earlier stays in the city, it was noticeably more crowded. International visitors had clearly returned in large numbers, and moving through the main areas was slower than I remembered. Still, knowing the layout of the city and a few ways around the busiest streets made it manageable.

Department stores in Japan are great. Especially the basement floors, where you find all the tasty delicacies of the local region or famous brands. Kyoto, of course, means for me green tea and wagashi sweets. So I went to buy some of my favorite ones and also discovered some new delicacies along the way. With the recent boom of matcha, I noticed it was really hard to buy Kyoto Uji matcha, but luckily I still found some.

I also bought one of my favorite delicacies, Yatsuhashi, which is a typical wagashi from Kyoto, where you have raw dough filled with anko paste. They mostly come in two flavors, one being cinnamon and the other matcha.

I also came across a new brand of green tea called AGARU IRU, which means ascending arrow, and it had some really nice genmaicha varieties. So I bought a pack of that as well.

For lunch, I went to one of my favorite tonkatsu restaurants in Kyoto, Katsukura, and ordered the typical tonkatsu teishoku with cabbage, miso soup, and rice. You grind the sesame yourself before mixing the sauce, which is always a nice touch. I was happy to see that one of the employees, an elderly man, was still the same as I remembered him many years ago, and he is still doing his job with the same care as before. Seeing him again felt quite nostalgic.

From there I headed south toward Tambabashi and Uji to visit the newly opened Nintendo Museum. Heads up: it’s important to reserve a ticket up to three months in advance because it is extremely competitive and honestly quite annoying to secure, but it is really worth it if you are a fan of Nintendo franchises such as Super Mario or Zelda.

To avoid spoiling too much of the exhibition, I will not describe it in detail. The building has two levels. One presents Nintendo’s history and many of the titles the company has produced, including its early business activities before gaming consoles.

The other floor contains interactive installations where visitors can experiment with oversized controllers and experience different game mechanics from popular games. I had great fun playing Mario Party 3 on the Nintendo 64, for example.

After that, I returned to Kyoto and checked in to the hotel I had chosen near Kawaramachi Shijo, a convenient and central base for the evening. By then it was already night, so most temples and shrines had closed.

There are a few night illuminations in this season, with the beautiful koyo autumn foliage being the highlight. One of them is Eikan-do, a famous temple in eastern Kyoto located between Nanzen-ji and Ginkaku-ji. Sadly, time did not permit a visit this time because our dinner appointment was approaching.

I met my friend for dinner at the izakaya Sumika, close to Nishiki Street between Kawaramachi and Karasuma. We had worked in the same research group at Kyoto University during my exchange period, sharing an office and many lunches at the time. Since then we try to meet whenever I return to Japan, which usually happens every couple of years.

Over sake we shared a variety of dishes, including eihire, tempura, sashimi, and several seasonal specialties. Another highlight for me was ginnan, roasted ginkgo nuts that appear on many menus in autumn.

After dinner we moved to a second place, a sake bar called Masuya a couple of streets away. The bar had a large selection of sake, many of them poured from big bottles behind the counter. My friend had been there before and ordered a few varieties he knew were good, so we ended up tasting several different ones over the course of the evening. We talked for quite a while before realizing we were getting dangerously close to the last train.

The next morning I had to leave Kyoto early, leaving no time for another walk along the Kamo River. Still, I managed to walk from Kawaramachi Shijo toward Kyoto Station and stop at a café south of Gojo for a coffee.

The café, Walden Woods Kyoto, has a striking interior painted entirely white with very little decoration. A single planted tree stands in the center of the upper floor. It was a calm place to sit with a coffee and watch the sunlight come through the windows during my final minutes in Kansai.

At 9 a.m. I arrived at Kyoto Station. As usual it was crowded, and the Shinkansen was heavily booked. Remember to reserve a seat for the Tokaido Shinkansen traveling between Osaka, Kyoto, and Tokyo as early as possible using the vending machines, the ticket counter, or the internet, assuming you have the patience to go through the registration process.

I was so tired that I slept through most of the ride. In terms of comfort, the closest comparison I can think of is a plane journey, though the Shinkansen feels much smoother. My neighbor was also soundly asleep.

Two hours later we arrived in Tokyo that would be the final stop of this journey. I still had four days there before returning home, enough time to revisit a few familiar places and slowly bring this long trip across Japan to a close.

The post A Short Return to Kyoto and Visiting the new Nintendo Museum appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

We finished our grand journey from Aomori to Kanazawa in a bit less than two weeks. Kanazawa marked a transition point from rural roads and small towns to major cities and long train rides.

I keep coming back to Kanazawa. It’s a place I really like to visit again and again. It has what I think is an ideal city size — large enough to offer food, craft, and history, but compact enough to walk almost everywhere. But I have a tendency to always catch it in bad weather, which is a bit suboptimal. I felt the same when I lived in Kobe, which I enjoyed for exactly these reasons. It must be its position between the Nihonkai coast and the mountains, where weather systems tend to linger.

We chose a classy but modern hotel called the Sanraku, which was located a stonethrow from Omicho Market. When we finally arrived from Niigata in the evening after the long drive, we had just enough time to drop off our luggage and return the car before the office closed. This time we split into two rooms again, but they kindly offered us at check-in to choose two adjacent rooms which could then be connected by an extra door. So we felt quite fancy having this extended suite in Kanazawa. The hotel was nicely designed; it even had a Japanese garden in the lobby, and there were many other nice decorative touches, including a hanging wall scroll above the bed.

It was pretty late already and restaurants close, or at least stop accepting new customers, at 8 pm at the latest. So we had some trouble finding a restaurant for dinner — and we were hungry after the long journey and conbini lunch on the road. After a few failed attempts at other izakaya and an oden place, we finally found ourselves at an intriguing torinabe (chicken hotpot) place where they served hot pot with young chicken and cabbage. I had never tried it in a specialized restaurant before, and it turned out to be excellent.

One thing we noticed right away was the visible increase in Western tourists. We’ve seen a few Asian tourists generally in most of the regions in Tohoku, except for the most rural places in Akita and Yamagata. But now in Kanazawa it was completely different. This, of course, could be because the Shinkansen from Tokyo now provides easy access to this nice city, but it also seems that the place has become way more famous. Both Nico and I have visited Kanazawa before over ten years ago, and back then it was not popular at all.

The next morning, we walked straight to Omicho Market to explore the culinary offerings of the Hokuriku region and find something to eat for breakfast or brunch. Omicho has been Kanazawa’s kitchen since the Edo period, and it still feels very local despite the visitors. Under its covered arcades, fishmongers, greengrocers, and small eateries line narrow passages that stay lively even in the rain. Broadly speaking, the market divides into two types of vendors: These selling raw ingredients, such as whole Japanese snow crab or other regional fish and these serving prepared dishes for take-away, including grilled fish and meats, sweets, and other Japanese finger foods.

It was not too busy yet when we arrived before 10 am, so it was still possible to take pictures of the market activities and try our way through many different street food–like stands.

Nodoguro, the local blackthroat seaperch, is small and expensive, but rich and slightly fatty, almost like ootoro. Having discovered it here, I needed to show the others this delicacy. We found a place that sold some grilled nodoguro sashimi, so we had that as our first bite. We followed that up with some ootoro tuna sashimi, and then after taking a few more rounds in the market, finally settled in a restaurant to order a big kaisendon, a mixed seafood bowl.

It was raining for the remainder of the day, so we gave up on a spontaneous idea to wear kimonos while exploring the city. Instead, we crossed toward Higashi Chaya, the historic tea district in the east of Kanazawa. It is one of the city’s preserved geisha districts along the Asano River, with rows of wooden teahouses that date back to the Edo period. Today many of them host small shops and cafes, but the area still carries the structure of the old entertainment quarter. Traditional streets, wooden facades, and shops selling local produce and crafts such as Noto lacquerware, Japanese sake, and the infamous gold leaf ice cream make it easy to spend a slow afternoon there, even in light rain.

From Higashi Chaya, we made our way back toward the center and slowly climbed up to the castle park in the heart of the city, which used to house Kanazawa Castle, the seat of the powerful Maeda clan. It was still raining lightly, and the umbrellas from the hotel turned out to be very useful on the way up. Large parts of the original structures were lost to repeated fires over the centuries, so what you see today is a mix of original stone foundations and reconstructed gates and storehouses. The wide lawns and stone walls now form a public park. When we finally reached the top of the hill, the sun came out at just the right moment, and from the higher points we enjoyed a clear view over Kanazawa.

Right next to it is Kenrokuen, the garden of Kanazawa. It is considered one of the three most beautiful landscape gardens in Japan, together with Korakuen in Okayama and Kairakuen in Ibaraki. The name Kenrokuen refers to the “six attributes” of an ideal garden, combining spaciousness and seclusion, artifice and antiquity, water features and panoramic views. This must be the third time I visit, and this time it was in autumn. Red maples stood against deep green moss and carefully shaped pines. The central pond was tranquil and merged with the blue sky on the horizon whenever the clouds opened up.

After finishing a round in the park, the rain became stronger again, and I had the idea to visit the prefectural library. A library is not the obvious stop on a city visit, but Kanazawa is worth coming to for places like this. The Ishikawa Prefectural Library recently moved into a new circular building that quickly became known for its architecture. You could see almost every bookshelf from nearly any position inside the building. It was nicely organized, not strictly by genre, but also by creative titles in multiple languages that evoked interest to explore beyond a certain genre. The center also contained an exhibition area, and on the top floor a large bridge structure allowed you to cross the open space from one side to the other.

On the way back, we made a stop at Fukumitsuya sake brewery, a long-established local brewery founded in the early 17th century and considered the oldest in Ishikawa Prefecture. At their shop, you can taste a range of different sake styles, from fresh and unfiltered to aged varieties, offering a clear sense of the region’s profile. We all found something we really liked, so we each bought a few bottles of sake.

To celebrate the completion of our long journey over two weeks, we decided to splurge on a multi-courrse dinner at Kappo Takeshi. I searched out this place for a multi-course local Kaga dining experience and snow crab.

When we arrived at the restaurant, we were not sure we were at the right address because of the unassuming entrance and then surprised by the unusual layout. Instead of entering a kind of dining room, we were escorted through many different hallways and stairs like in an industrial building, but eventually ended up in a private room with a huge circular table where we had dinner by ourselves. Yukata-clad and suited waiters came and went, bringing us delicious dishes, each of them beautifully arranged, tasty, and phenomenal.

The moment I had been waiting for was the snow crab. And of course, they delivered. But there were also many other nice surprises on the menu, such as duck stew and nodoguro again, deep-fried local white fish, all finished up with a matcha dessert. We were curious about one of the waiters who kept serving us since he was quite young, so we asked him quite cheekily what he normally does besides waiting tables. We learned he was just doing this as a side job while studying medicine at university. When we left the restaurant, we were greeted by a chorus of thank-you shouts from the kitchen, and the head chef, wearing an all-yellow outfit, came out personally to thank us for visiting. We were really happy to have visited this place.

It was still raining, and the journey was too far, so we took a taxi back to the station, quickly bought the train tickets for the next morning, and called it a night.

The post Seafood Breakfast and a Kaiseki Finale in Rainy Kanazawa appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Sado, off the coast of Niigata in the Sea of Japan, is not a destination most people consider on their first trip to Japan. It is rural and not the easiest place to access, but it is well worth coming if you bring enough time. The island covers about 855 square kilometers, it ranks after Okinawa Island and is one of the largest in the country. It is the sixth largest island in Japan excluding the four main islands of Honshu, Hokkaido, Kyushu, and Shikoku

There are two ways to reach Sado Island, both operated by Sado Kisen from Niigata Port. The conventional car ferry takes about 2 hours and 30 minutes to Ryōtsu Port. The high-speed Jetfoil on the other hand takes around 1 hour and 7 minutes.

We left our car in Niigata and chose the Jetfoil, not only because of the time saving but because transporting our car to Sado and back would have been much more expensive than renting another one on the island. Since we were staying only five minutes from the ferry terminal, we thought we could just show up shortly before departure. That turned out to be a mistake. The parking situation was far more congested than expected, and by the time we realized that the main lot near the terminal was completely full, it was already too late. We circled around in mild panic, trying to find another option, but in the end we missed the ferry.

Fortunately, we could rebook onto the next Jetfoil two hours later. To use the time, we went up to Toki Messe, the tall tower building next to the terminal. We visited the observation deck and had a coffee there. The weather was splendid again that day, and from above we had a wide view over the Sea of Japan and the Niigata coastline. It turned the unplanned delay into a rather pleasant break.

Inside the Jetfoil, everything felt more like boarding a plane than a boat. Seatbelts were required, the seats were arranged like in an aircraft cabin, and since the system is based on Boeing Jetfoil technology, the impression of preparing for takeoff was quite strong. When the engines roared, it almost felt like we would lift into the sky.

A little over an hour later, we arrived at Ryōtsu Port. At the tourist information office, the man working there turned out to speak surprisingly fluent German. What followed was a funny mix of German, English, and Japanese. We switched between languages mid-sentence, and it became one of those unexpected travel moments that stay with you. He recommended spots around Aikawa in the west, the Tarai-bune boats near Ogi in the south, and the nighttime illumination at the Kitazawa Flotation Plant and the Sado Gold Mine.

When we picked up our rental car, it was already overdue because of the missed ferry. The car was an older Toyota, much more basic than the one we had been driving over the previous two weeks. No advanced features, no comfort extras, but it did its job.

We drove south toward Ogi and continued to Shukunegi, a historic village built by ship carpenters in the Edo period. The houses stand tightly packed along narrow alleys, with some standing out due to their shape.

The Tarai-bune are traditional round wooden tub boats unique to the Ogi area of Sado. Shaped like large barrels cut in half, they were historically used by local fishermen to collect abalone and seaweed in the shallow, rocky coastal waters where larger boats could not operate safely. Today, they are mainly used for short guided rides for visitors.

At the Tarai-bune reception, we were told we would have to wait quite a while and could not board together because of other customers. Then suddenly an elderly man stood up and said he would prepare another boat for us. The employee who had just explained the waiting time looked genuinely surprised. It turned out that this man leads the business and is the only one who builds these round wooden boats (according to him). It felt like a small honor to be served directly by him. He steered the boats personally, and we even rode separately in two boats, two people each.

During the 15 minute ride, he shared stories about the boats and the island’s history. Back then the locals figured they could repurpose barrels they used for rice, miso and alcohol storage as boats. They cut open a wooden barrel into two pieces and secured it with bamboo strings, and that is how the Tarai-bune were born. 

We also spoke about earthquakes. The major Noto Peninsula earthquake on January 1, 2024, had its epicenter off the Noto coast. Sado experienced shaking and smaller tsunami waves. I clearly remember feeling that same earthquake in Tokyo, where it was much weaker but still noticeable. It created an unexpected personal link between places that feel geographically distant.

In the evening, we drove toward Aikawa and stopped at Kasuga Cape. Our plan was to photograph the setting sun framed inside a stone lantern. We carefully positioned ourselves, adjusting angles and perspective, trying to align the sun perfectly within the opening. But the seasonal angle was not on our side. In the end, we still took away several creative sunset shots.

We checked into our Nipponia accommodation in Aikawa, part of a hotel company that is revitalizing rural Japan by refurbishing traditional buildings into distributed hotel rooms. The reception was in one historic building, while our actual house stood on a hill near a Shinto shrine above Aikawa village. After some introductory conversation, the employee of the hotel escorted us to the actual location of our hotel house by car. The explanation of all the features took longer than we would have liked because we were already hungry and it was getting dark. The staff warned us that most restaurants are closed tonight and helped us reserve at one open sushi restaurant, but they declined us.

At night, we visited the illuminated Kitazawa Flotation Plant, part of the Sado Gold Mine. The flotation plant, built in 1938, once processed 50,000 tons of ore using flotation technology, where gold-bearing particles attach to bubbles and rise to the surface.

We were lucky to be able to visit a special night opening of the mine plus a special art project called “Pulse of Lives,” a collaboration led by artist Mika Ninagawa. The tunnels and spaces of the historic mine are transformed with immersive light, sound, and video installations that blend the history of mining with contemporary artistic expression. Some scenes created an uneasy atmosphere, almost suggesting the anxiety and hardship experienced by miners working underground. At one installation, designed like a glowing field of flowers, we experimented with light painting to add a bit of atmosphere to our photos.

Because it was Sunday, most restaurants turned out to be closed. We first tried an izakaya that was supposed to be open, but when we arrived, the lights were off and the door locked. With few options left, we returned to the sushi restaurant that had earlier told us they were full. We slowly slid open the door and peeked inside, asking carefully whether there might still be space. A group of local guests sitting at a low table told us they would soon leave. We thanked them and waited outside in the car, not wanting to rush anyone. After a few minutes, they came out, smiling, and we could take their spot.

Inside, we could feel that we were probably the first foreigners there in quite some time. People glanced over curiously, and I was once again complimented on my Japanese. We ordered an assorted sushi platter first, then selected additional pieces based on the fresh fish available.

We finally returned to the house on top of a hill next to a Shinto shrine. It was a nicely renovated wooden building that was spacious enough for four beds and even boasted a sauna. Nothing feels better than a hot sauna or hot bath after a long day of travel and exploration.

The next morning, a storm was predicted to arrive around 8 a.m. I decided to use the early hours before it hit. While the others were still asleep, I left the house and went for a run. It was already windy, but the sun was still shining. I ran down into Aikawa, passed a cat wandering between quiet houses, and followed the coastline. I stopped at Scissors Rock, then continued to a pier where you could face the ocean from almost all sides. The wind was strong, and the sea was rough. Waves crashed against the rocks, white foam blown sideways by the gusts. It was raw but beautiful.

When I returned, breakfast had already been delivered by courier that morning. We had simple salted onigiri without filling, pickles, hot miso soup, and tea.

Later, we visited the Sado Gold Mine again at day. Mining here began in 1601 and continued until 1989. The complex includes the Sōdayū Mine, developed by hand in the early Edo period, and the Dōyū Mine, later expanded with machines in the 20th century. In 2024, the site was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Inside, detailed exhibits explain the geology and mining techniques. There are multiple gold-bearing veins running several kilometers through the mountains. Ore grades were low, which meant large volumes of rock had to be processed. Approximately 2–8 grams of gold and 50–120 grams of silver could be extracted from one ton of ore. Displays show drainage systems and pumps used to remove groundwater, as well as mechanized crushing and refining methods. Robotic figures illustrate how miners worked underground.

One highlight was the 12.5-kilogram gold bar displayed in a secure glass case. You can try to lift it through a small opening. Despite its relatively compact size, it felt incredibly dense. I could barely lift it with one hand.

Outside the storm was picking up, and the rain was gushing down. As the weather worsened, the Jetfoil was canceled, so we had to resort to take the slower ferry back. On the way, we stopped at the coastline again once and witnessed the falls of nature. Although we became totally wet, it was a fun experience walking against wind and rain. We also made a brief stop at a local sake brewery and bought a few bottles to try the next day.

At the harbor, we had lunch at a ramen shop that offered several different styles. I am usually skeptical of places that try to do everything at once. Still, it turned out to be quite good. I ordered niboshi ramen with a strong dried sardine broth, while the others chose tonkotsu Yokohama Iekei-style ramen. For the first time in a while, we met other Western visitors: a German and an American, both sports coaches living on Sado to train their respective teams. We chatted briefly about island life and training conditions.

The ferry ride took about 2.5 hours. Inside, it was incredibly quiet, hardly anyone was speaking. It was a good moment to wind down, as we still had a long drive in front of us.

Looking back, two days and one night were not enough to explore the island, even at a basic level. I would like to return and see more of it. In my view, at least three days and two nights are needed to gain a broader sense of Sado.

We arrived around 3 p.m. in Niigata and quickly made our way to the parking lot to head for Kanazawa. This was the longest leg of our journey in one day, and because we had lost so much time due to the ferry and the weather, we were under real pressure. We had to reach Kanazawa before the rental office closed at 8 pm. We sped down the highway, passing Toyama City and finally reaching Ishikawa Prefecture. Thankfully, we made it back to the hotel and the car rental place with time to spare.

Over the ten days, we had driven almost 1,500 kilometers. After settling the remaining toll charges, we finally checked into the hotel and closed this chapter of our road trip across the Tohoku region.

The post Riding Barrel Boats on the Golden Island of Sado appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

After spending many days in Akita, we finally left the prefecture and entered Yamagata Prefecture from the north. Passing by Sakata, we arrived in Tsuruoka, where we would stay the night. Here, we chose Hotel Shonai Suiden Terrasse, a modern hotel designed by Shigeru Ban. The hotel opened in 2018 and sits about ten minutes outside central Tsuruoka, which explains why most guests arrive by car or taxi and why the area feels calm and open.

I was drawn to the setting right away. The hotel is built among wide rice fields, which creates a strong link to the surrounding landscape. In November, the rice had already been harvested, so the view did not fully match the green scenes shown on the website. Still, the open layout, natural light, and quiet atmosphere stood out compared to the other hotels we had stayed in. Its location outside the city and its focus on local food and hot springs seem to attract mainly Japanese guests rather than international travelers.

The hotel felt like a large maze. It is divided into three wings, each named after one of the nearby mountains (more about them later). Because many rooms are set apart from each other, the walk to our room at the far end was long and winding. We had chosen a large family room for the four of us, which turned out to be a full suite with a living room and a kitchen. The kitchen did not include any cooking tools, which we did not need, but it raised the question of what it was meant to be used for.

As usual, our first stop was the onsen. The hotel has two bathing areas that rotate overnight, allowing guests to use both during a one-night stay. Rotating bath areas like this are common in larger onsen hotels and give some variation even on short visits. The area we entered first had an open-air bath that faced sideways toward the rice fields rather than opening to the sky. There was also a sauna, though the overall bathing area felt small compared to the size of the hotel.

Because the hotel is some distance from the city and we decided to eat out, we called a taxi and went to a yakitori izakaya (Kurasawaya / 焼鳥倉沢屋) we had marked on the map. The driver was friendly but hard to understand. What came through clearly was that he knew the place well and approved of our choice.

We enjoyed this izakaya much more than the one we had visited in Kakunodate yesterday. We ordered a mix of yakitori, several small dishes to share, and even the head of a tuna.

Breakfast the next morning was extensive and slightly different from the standard Japanese hotel buffet. There was a strong focus on vegetables, pickles, and regional food. Highlights included a hot soup from the Shonai area, smoothies, and several well-prepared healthy dishes. After one last soak in the onsen, we headed out to explore Tsuruoka for a short time.

In the city center, on the grounds of the former Tsuruoka Castle, lies Shonai Shrine. Mid-November is the main period for Shichi-Go-San, so we were no longer surprised by the large number of visiting families. We saw part of a ceremony in the main hall and spent time looking at the omamori charms. Each of us bought one. Many visitors also collect goshuin as part of shrine visits across Japan, and designs often vary by shrine and season. I was especially impressed by the goshuin here, which change regularly and make repeat visits feel different. Also, a small exhibition nearby showed shrine-related objects and traditional crafts such as hina dolls and kokeshi dolls.

Not far from the shrine are several preserved merchant houses from the Meiji period. We did not have time to visit them, but Tsuruoka left the impression of being a place worth returning to.

Tsuruoka has long served as the main gateway to Dewa Sanzan, with pilgrims traditionally staying here before entering the mountains. We crossed the Shonai Plain toward the hills, heading for this important religious area. The history of Dewa Sanzan goes back about 1,400 years to Prince Hachiko, though much of this story comes from religious tradition rather than written records. The three mountains are Haguro-san (414 m), Gassan (1,984 m), and Yudono-san (1,504 m). Each is linked to a different stage of life, and visitors traditionally move through them in a set order.

We had hoped to visit all three, but the roads to the higher mountains were already closed for winter. Haguro-san is the only one that stays accessible year-round, which is why it is the most commonly visited. As we approached, we passed through the largest torii gate in the Tohoku region, wide enough for a two-lane road.

Haguro-san is home to the Dewasanzan shrine complex. While pilgrims usually climb the mountain via the stone stair path, we first drove to the top to visit the main hall and planned to walk the stairs afterward. The atmosphere drew us in immediately, even though the main hall, Sanjin Gosaiden, was under renovation. The building was last rebuilt in 1818 and stands 28 meters high, making it one of the largest wooden shrine buildings with a thatched roof in Japan.

In front of the hall lies Kagami-ike, or Mirror Pond. Bronze mirrors were placed at the bottom long ago as offerings, and the water level remains stable despite the lack of a visible spring. Nearby stands a large copper bell cast around 400 years ago, which is only rung once a year.

Afterward, we walked the stone stair path in reverse, starting from the top. The route passes through Zuishin-mon gate and into a dense cedar forest. The full path is about 1.7 kilometers long and includes 2,446 stone steps. Walking the entire route usually takes one to one and a half hours, and shoes with good grip are useful, especially in wet weather.

Among the trees is the Grandpa Cedar, said to be over 400 years old. A nearby tree known as the Grandma Cedar was struck by lightning about ten years ago and no longer stands.

Further down, we reached a man-made waterfall dating back several centuries and then the five-story pagoda. First built in 937 and later restored, it reflects a time when Buddhist and Shinto practices were closely linked.

Because Mount Gassan and Mount Yudono are usually open only from late spring to early autumn due to heavy snow, we looked for a nearby viewpoint instead. Along the way, we stopped to see a pine tree said to be around 1,800 years old. After a short hike in the middle of nowhere, we found indeed the arguably oldest pine tree in Japan.

Near a dam close to Mount Gassan, we filmed some footage and took in the autumn scenery before heading toward Niigata.

As the sun began to set, we reached the coastline and pulled over near a small roadside repair shop. The owner looked surprised to see us appear, but allowed us to stay for a few minutes and watch the sun sink below the horizon. We then continued to Niigata, where we stayed one more night before leaving for Sado Island the next morning.

After a long drive, we arrived in Niigata in the evening and checked into the hotel. After many days in rural areas, being back in a larger urban setting felt slightly unfamiliar. This time we chose a standard Western-style hotel in a high-rise building, mainly for the view over the city and the coastline. We parked in the hotel’s designated lot, dropped our bags in our two rooms, and headed back out almost immediately.

For dinner, we were craving yakiniku. Near the station, we found ourselves in a busy nightlife district filled with bright signs and steady foot traffic. There were plenty of barbecue restaurants to choose from, but many looked either overpriced or not quite convincing. We walked several loops around the area before finally spotting a small, tucked-away yakiniku place hidden inside a mixed-use building. From the outside it looked plain and easy to miss, and without Google Maps we probably would not have found it.

The decision paid off. The prices were modest, the service attentive, and we enjoyed grilling different cuts of beef, chicken, and pork at our table. I tried to introduce the others to horumon, a typical offal dish, and ordered a plate to share. It turned out that I was the only one who appreciated it, so I ended up finishing it myself.

After dinner, and now fully back in city mode, we went to karaoke again for the first time since Aomori. We spent the evening singing loudly and without much concern for technique. When we left, we briefly crossed paths with two groups of local youngsters and almost joined them for a while, but in the end we decided to call it a night. We wanted to leave early the next morning to catch the ferry to Sado Island.

The post Modern Architecture on the Shonai Plain and the Stone Steps of Dewa Sanzan appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

The rain did not stop when we arrived in Kakunodate from Nyuto Onsen, and of course it did not hinder us from doing some sightseeing. Kakunodate has a historic samurai district, one of the remaining examples of how this class of people lived in the 17th century.

The Kakunodate samurai district, which once housed around 80 families, is one of the best-preserved examples of samurai residential architecture in Japan. Today, six houses are open to the public, some of them free to enter. While the street itself can be walked at any time, most interiors close in the late afternoon, so it makes sense to explore earlier in the day.

To stay in the mood, we chose a historic hotel: the Tamachi Bukeyashiki Hotel, located directly on the preserved samurai street. We arrived in the early afternoon and parked our car for free at the hotel. From there, everything was within walking distance. The hotel lent us umbrellas, which were very welcome on this rainy day, and we set out to explore the town.

First things first: lunch. We went to Domanin, a well-regarded local restaurant, and were happy with the selection of regional dishes. We ordered Oyakodon made with Hinai jidori chicken and katsu curry. Akita’s Hinai jidori is raised more slowly than standard chicken, resulting in firmer meat and a deeper, more savory taste that suits the local style of cooking well.

After lunch, we entered the Tamachi History Museum Tatetsu. At first glance, we mistook it for a shop, as the front area displays local crafts with a focus on cherry bark work. For more than 200 years, this craft has been practiced here, supported by the abundance of cherry trees in the area, especially the Shidare Zakura that bloom in May. The bark is processed entirely by hand and used for items such as tea canisters and trays. The shop owner explained the background and techniques in detail. I bought two coasters and a serving tray as souvenirs.

The main appeal of this building, however, lies beyond the shop — and it’s free. It is a former kimono merchant’s house, and the historic interior is open to visitors. Inside, there are exhibits from earlier times, including kimonos, ukiyo-e prints, and other cultural objects that help place Kakunodate in a broader historical context.

We then continued walking north along the main street, where historic samurai houses line the road, each set behind carefully maintained gardens. Autumn colors were at their peak, and the rain made the foliage appear even deeper in tone. Some houses were free to enter, so we for example stopped briefly at the Odano-ke Samurai House. Large puddles had formed, and staying dry was more a matter of balance than planning. We still managed to handle camera and umbrella at the same time.

The clear highlight of Kakunodate was the Aoyagi Residence, one of the two major samurai estates in town and the former home of the Aoyagi family, middle-ranking retainers of the Satake clan. This is the largest and most substantial site in the district and requires an admission ticket.

The importance of the residence is evident from the main gate alone, which is far more elaborate than others in town. Built in 1860 with special permission from the feudal lord, it reflects the family’s status and contributions to the domain. Inside the grounds, multiple buildings are open to visitors, each offering a different perspective on samurai life. On this rainy autumn afternoon, the residence felt less like a museum and more like a place briefly paused in time. The garden contains the Aoyagi Yae Beni Shidare Zakura, an eight-petaled red weeping cherry tree found only here.

The main house, with its thatched roof, is among the best-preserved samurai residences in the country. Three separate entrances lead to guest reception rooms, private living quarters, and servant areas. Storehouses display armor, helmets, swords, and firearms, providing a concrete sense of daily and ceremonial life. Another exhibition focuses on rangaku, the study of Western knowledge. Naotake Odano, a samurai connected to the Aoyagi family, applied Western shading techniques to create Japan’s first accurate anatomical illustrations, which later influenced education across the country. The displays also include imported Western goods that were rare and valuable at the time.

The museum includes hands-on elements such as lifting a samurai sword or a kago palanquin. At the end of the route, a souvenir shop offers local products, with a noticeable emphasis on Akita dog goods. The breed, native to this region, is used widely as a local symbol, and here it became especially apparent. Sadly, the depicted Bukemaru passed away in 2024.

Our hotel continued the historic theme, not only through its location but also through the room’s interior, which reflected a Meiji-era atmosphere, featuring Western-style beds sit alongside wooden furniture. Instead of dining at the hotel, we decided to eat out for a change. The staff kindly made a reservation for us at a nearby izakaya.

At Izakaya Naruhodo, whose name roughly means “ah, I see,” we ordered from a handwritten menu on a whiteboard. Not every dish was clear to me, but we ended up with a good variety of classic izakaya dishes: raw and grilled fish, yakitori, horse sashimi, karaage and rich salads.

The next morning, we had breakfast at the hotel. It was solid but less special than at the ryokan we had stayed at previously.

Before leaving Kakunodate, I wanted to stop at the Ando Fermenting Store (安藤醸造 本店), located in the former merchant district south of the center. The brick building reflects the long history of the brewery, which has been producing soy sauce, miso, and other fermented foods using the same method for over 150 years. As fires used to be the norm back then, this building in its current form has been rebuilt in 1891. At the time bricks were still a rare luxury but they were chosen to prevent further damage by fires. And this has proven as the building still remains in its original form.

We all had soy sauce from Kikkoman before I think. And you would think: „Ah soy sauce is just soy sauce.“ Tasting the products made it clear how varied soy sauce can be in Japan. I bought both soy sauce and miso, along with several packs of Kan Koji, fermented rice used for pickling and cooking. You can use it to pickle your own vegetables and use it in many other dishes. On the back side of the products there are many hints on how to use them. I also picked up iburi gakko, smoked pickled radish, which I had already come to enjoy during our time in Akita.

With good weather expected the next day, we had planned to hike Mount Chokai. After checking road conditions, however, we learned that access was already closed for winter. Accepting that climbing the mountain was no longer possible, we changed plans. Rather than driving straight south to Yokote and Shinjo, we turned west, hoping to see the sea after several days inland.

We drove through quiet rural roads, passing rice paddies, small villages, and long stretches without traffic. At first glance, there seems to be little happening here, but the landscape offers more when you look beyond the obvious.

Unsure where to stop next, we came across Karamatsu Shrine by pure coincidence. The shrine is set deep among cedar trees, away from towns and main roads. Tall trunks line the grounds, and the area feels removed from surrounding settlements.

Karamatsu Shrine is known for prayers related to safe childbirth, and families from across Japan visit for blessings. When we approached the main hall, the priest invited us inside after seeing off another family, likely visiting for the Shichi-Go-San festival. We learned that the shrine has a history of more than 1,200 years, with 64 generations of priests serving here, and that the building itself is over 700 years old.

The priest spoke with us for a while, took photos, and gave us a bottle of sake brewed specifically for the shrine.

He also pointed out a second shrine nearby, notable for its unusual layout, surrounded by a moat. Light filtered through the cedar trees and reflected on the water around the building. Some of the trees are said to be more than 400 years old. As we left, more families arrived with young children.

We next headed for Chuku-ji temple, which harbors a big Buddha statue. However, when we arrived, we saw that they were currently renovating, so we could not see much of the inside of the main hall. But still, the outside wooden structure was quite impressive, so it was not completely pointless to visit. 

By late afternoon, we were hungry and continued toward the coast, aiming for Yurihonjō, the next bigger town in this area. We were in the mood for sushi and found Sushi Take (寿司竹), located in a quiet residential neighborhood. From the outside it looked closed, but as I reached for the door, it suddenly opened from the inside. A man appeared, holding a bucket filled with ice water, clearly on his way out. We both froze for a moment, equally surprised. He turned out to be the chef and explained that lunch service had already ended and he was preparing for dinner. So just like that, our sushi plan was over before it even started.

Still wanting sushi, we settled for Kappa Sushi. While very different from a counter experience, the quick service and ease of ordering made it a convenient stop, and we left satisfied.

As we continued south toward Yamagata, Mount Chokai appeared again in the distance. Since hiking was no longer an option, we searched for a viewpoint and eventually reached a high plateau (Nikaho Kogen) via empty roads. Wind turbines stood against the sky, and the cold wind made it hard to stay long. Still, the view of Mount Chokai and the coastline under a soft yellow evening light made the stop worthwhile.

We returned to the coast and drove toward Tsuruoka. Just before sunset, we pulled over at Misakiyama Observatory and we could watch the sun sink below the horizon.

About an hour later, we arrived in Tsuruoka, Yamagata Prefecture. We checked into our hotel, and that will be a story for another day.

The post Samurai in Kakunodate and Surprises in Rural Akita appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

We then headed on to our next overnight destination at Lake Tazawa and checked into our accommodation. It was raining.

Lake Tazawa is the deepest lake in Japan, reaching a depth of around 423 meters, which gives the water its dark blue color. Despite its remote feel, the area is easy to reach. The Akita Shinkansen runs directly from Tokyo to Tazawako Station in just under three hours.

The ryokan was already expecting us, and the staff were waiting with umbrellas to guide us inside when we arrived by car. They showed us to our large room and welcomed us with freshly brewed matcha and a small sweet. After settling in, we went down to the baths and enjoyed the rotenburo.

Dinner was served in the room this time, which felt special, especially since the night before we had eaten in the common dining hall. The menu looked excellent, with many interesting dishes, including smoked crackers, salmon liver, a French-style gratin, paprika tofu, and a yuzu aperitif. More courses followed, including sashimi made from local lake trout, Akita beef, and several types of sake, which stood out as one of the highlights of the trip.

The next morning, we woke just in time for breakfast, again served in the room. When I opened the shoji sliding windows, the view had completely changed. Lake Tazawa layed in front of us, and the sun was shining for the first time after many days of rain. Breakfast included a good selection of dishes, among them a hot pot with Akita fish. This was the first time I had hot pot for breakfast, which felt unusual but worked surprisingly well. Before leaving, we went for another dip in the onsen.

After checking out, we walked along the lakeside and the white sand beach and found the area quiet and not crowded. We stopped for coffee and bakery goods at a small lakeside shop before continuing our drive around the lake.

Our first stop was Gozanoishi Shrine, where we took photos of the large torii gate by the water. Nick also used his drone to take some aerial shots.

We then continued around the lake to see the statue of Tatsuko. The statue refers to a local legend about a woman who asked for eternal beauty and was cursed by the gods, turning into a dragon said to live beneath the lake. It felt like a Japanese version of Nessie.

In the afternoon, we headed to Dakigaeri Valley, a gorge near Kakunodate. The area is known for its steep rock walls, clear river water, and strong seasonal changes, and it is especially worth visiting in autumn. Dakigaeri Valley is easy to combine with a visit to Kakunodate, as both lie along the Akita Shinkansen line. The valley can be reached without a car using local transport, while reaching Nyuto Onsen later in the day usually requires a bus from Tazawako Station or a car, especially in the evening when connections become limited.

With the weather improving, we focused on outdoor plans. At the entrance, three locals were selling grapes, soft cream, and coffee. When we asked about the coffee, one of them told us it was not ready yet, so we said we would come back later. We did buy some shining muscat grapes, which were large, round, and very sweet.

We then walked into the gorge through the autumn landscape, passing a dam and a striking waterfall. The walking route follows the river and offers several viewpoints, though parts of it are sometimes closed due to landslides. After about half an hour, the path was closed that day, so we had to turn back. On our way back, we were able to try the local coffee, served by a woman from Kakunodate. She shared recommendations for the area, and we chatted for a while as the sun began to set.

From there, we drove on to our next overnight stay at Nyuto Onsen, a group of remote onsen ryokan in the mountains north of Lake Tazawa. Despite the secluded setting, Nyuto Onsen can still be reached from Tazawako Station by bus or car. We stayed at Tae no Yu, one of the best-known baths in the area.

The drive up followed a winding mountain road, and we even passed a ski resort, showing how much altitude we had gained since the previous night. Toward the end, the road became rough, with deep bumps and muddy sections that required careful driving.

As the sun was setting, we tried to get another drone shot. After asking for permission, the staff explained that filming was only allowed in certain directions because of the many open-air baths nearby.

The building felt historic but well maintained and surprisingly spacious. With its many rooms and corridors, it was easy to lose track of where we were.

To give a better sense of the atmosphere and layout, have a look at this short video of the ryokan:

After being welcomed with green tea and tonjiru soup, the staff explained how everything worked, all in clear English. We split into two rooms on different floors, each with a different layout and view. One room overlooked the river, while the other faced a waterfall directly.

We headed to the onsen and found many bathing options. There were gender-separated baths, as well as a mixed bathing area, which is rare but still found in parts of Tohoku, including Nyuto Onsen. Towels are allowed in this area, and there are also specific time slots reserved for women only. In the evening, the men’s and women’s sections are switched, allowing access to different baths. There is also a private onsen that can be booked per room.

During our stay, we managed to visit all the baths. There were about five pools in total, each with a different feel. Tae no Yu has two water sources: the Golden Spring, with higher mineral content including iron and sulfur, and the Silver Spring, which is clearer and softer, closer to groundwater.

Dinner focused on mountain ingredients, fitting for our location away from the coast. We had several kinds of mushrooms and mountain vegetables, a grilled whole chestnut, Inaniwa udon, shabu-shabu with Akita beef, and persimmon for dessert. Inaniwa udon is a local specialty of Akita, known for its thin shape and smooth texture. What stood out to me was how varied the food had been so far: three stays in Akita, all in the same region, and yet each meal felt completely different in style and ingredients.

After dinner, we returned to the baths once more. With the bathing areas switched, we could explore a new section. The outdoor mixed bath next to the waterfall stood out in particular. Another outdoor bath faced directly into the forest, giving the impression that wildlife could appear at any moment.

Later that evening, we played cards, and the boys finally taught me how to play Jass, the Swiss card game.

Breakfast the next morning included many varied dishes. One arrived wrapped in straw, hiding a portion of natto inside. We also grilled our own fish at the table.

Tae no Yu is just one of several ryokan in the Nyuto Onsen area. Since it is possible to visit others as a day guest, we wanted to visit Tsuru no Yu, the most famous one, after failing to secure a reservation for a stay.

Tsuru no Yu dates back to the 17th century. According to legend, it was discovered when a traveler saw a crane healing its wounds in the hot water, which is how it got its name. Once reserved for the feudal lord of Akita, it is now open to the public, though overnight stays are difficult to book and must be arranged by phone.

It is exceedingly difficult to access the site without a car, although they offer pickups by their bus for staying guests. Because Tsuru no Yu is quite separated from the other onsen in this area, we had to first drive down for half an hour before we could then enter a different valley. The road leading there was rough and unpaved, and upon arrival it felt like stepping back in time.

Instead of one large modern building, the site consists of several small wooden structures lining a narrow path, similar to how it would have looked during the Edo period. It was cold, and the changing rooms were very basic, with no showers. We rinsed ourselves with hot water before entering the bath. A mix of Japanese visitors and foreign guests were already soaking.

While we were relaxing in the water enjoying the moment, a middle-aged Japanese man entered the bath and sat down nearby. His back was covered by a large dragon tattoo, which drew attention, especially given the usual rules around tattoos at traditional onsen. You could feel the temperature of the water dropping as everybody became quiet. Nothing happened though, and after some time we quietly left the bath. Everybody just wants to take a hot bath in winter.

Back in the car, we drove on toward Kakunodate, still in Akita. As the rain returned, we prepared ourselves for indoor plans and hoped for better weather ahead.

The post Lakeshore Walks and Forest Valleys: Lake Tazawa, Dakigaeri Valley and Nyuto Onsen appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

After leaving Oirase and Aomori Prefecture behind, we turned our way southwards towards Akita Prefecture. From here on, we were heading inland rather than following the coast. The rain did not stop, and as we crossed through the rural countryside with hardly any buildings around us, the weather began to shift constantly. Rain turned into snow and back into rain as we ascended over mountain passes and crossed wide plains. At some point, we passed through a small village with a few signs of civilization, mostly pachinko parlors, gas stations, and convenience stores. We were mainly following national roads through the mountains, often narrow and winding, climbing several passes where the weather changed quickly.

Many of the buildings we came across looked deserted or run down, showing clear signs of depopulation in the area. Inland Akita feels especially affected by this, as access is limited compared to the eastern part of Tohoku, which is far better connected by the JR network and the Shinkansen.

At one point we barely avoided oncoming traffic when we came dangerously close to a truck on a narrow stretch of road. As we approached our destination, the roads climbed higher and the snowfall grew heavier, and we started to worry whether we might need snow chains after all. We stopped briefly to test traction, but the winter tires held well and gave us enough grip to continue. As it kept snowing and the last light of the day faded, we finally arrived at Goshogake Onsen. With it came the unmistakable smell of sulfur. We arrived in the late afternoon, with temperatures already well below freezing.

When we arrived, four pairs of slippers were already prepared, and the receptionist kindly explained the facilities and offerings of the ryokan. Given the timing and the weather, it felt like we might have been the last guests to arrive that day. The ryokan had one large main bath, a smaller secondary bath, and a natural steam-powered ondol hot stone experience, which we could sign up for and which I would come back to later. This time we had two separate rooms, both very traditional and surprisingly warm, apparently thanks to a heating system that directly uses natural hot spring water.

We had enough time to take a soak in the onsen before dinner, and we were immediately impressed by the sheer scale of the bathhouse. When we opened the door, we stepped into a dim wooden space filled with steam, with several pools spread across the room, including a whirlpool, a sauna, and a hot box with a steam outlet where you could enjoy a personal steam session. The large bath contained multiple pools as well as small steam saunas designed for one person at a time. Sitting inside one of these wooden chambers while steam rose from below felt like a quiet, contained way to warm up without fully bathing. The water itself was a milky white color, and the steam was so thick it was visibly foggy. Funnily enough, there were no shower heads, only a water faucet at a bowl, which you used to pour hot or cold water over yourself. After moving between the different pools and spending enough time soaking, it was time for dinner.

As hoped, dinner was an impressive assortment of local dishes. We were served salmon sashimi with fish caviar, several cold dishes made from local mountain vegetables, and two different hot pots, one featuring local Hachimantai pork. There was also a kiritampo hot pot, as well as three thick cuts of wagyu beef. It was served as a long set menu, course after course, and the dishes just kept coming. By the time we reached dessert, we were completely full and could not manage another bite.

Later in the evening, we tried the ondol room. The ondol at Goshogake Onsen is a heated tatami space where geothermal heat slowly rises from below the floor. You lie down fully clothed, wrapped in a robe and towel, and let the warmth spread through your body. The heat is gentle and even, making it easy to stay there for a long time without discomfort. The room was quiet and dimly lit, with no water involved at all, just steady warmth and a faint sulfur smell lingering in the air.

Most guests use it after bathing, before going to sleep. After the baths, it felt like a calm and almost meditative way to let the body fully settle for the night, and it honestly felt comfortable enough that it would have been easy to fall asleep right there on the tatami, if it had not been for a helpful fellow guest whose loud snoring made sure that did not happen. As we lay there, heavy sheets of snow slid off the roof above us, echoing through the building like taiko drums in the darkness.

The next morning, we woke up to find the ryokan deeply buried in snow. I took another quick dip in the bath before breakfast, just enough to warm up for the day. With daylight, the surroundings became much clearer, and we could fully appreciate the mountain setting we were in. It was still snowing lightly, and visibility remained limited. Goshogake Onsen sits at over 1,000 meters above sea level, and every few minutes we could hear snow dropping from the roof outside.

I also visited the second bath, which overnight guests could use freely. This smaller onsen had a window facing the inner courtyard and the same silky, milky water as the main bath. During certain hours, parts of the onsen are also open to day-trip visitors.

Breakfast was served in the same dining area and followed a familiar ryokan style. We had miso soup and rice, a shumai dumpling that we could heat ourselves, onsen tamago, along with pickles and salad.

When we checked out, we asked about sightseeing options in the area, but the receptionist gave a slightly troubled smile and handed us a map showing what was accessible in winter, which was not much. Snow and road closures limit most outdoor activities at this time of year, and many hiking trails and mountain roads were already closed for the season. She mentioned the nearby copper mine museum, which we were planning to visit anyway. Before setting off, we had to clear snow from the car, which turned out to be easier than expected. Once on the road, we were relieved to find that everything had already been cleared.

After about half an hour back down the valley, we reached the nearby village of Kazuno and entered the former copper mine museum. This was the Osarizawa Mine, which has a history of over 1,300 years and was once the largest copper mine in Japan.

Mining is no longer active, but the site played an important role in Japan’s metal production for centuries. Roughly 1.7 kilometers of tunnels are open to visitors, and as we walked through them, we passed displays explaining the tools and techniques used in different periods. Over many centuries, miners dug tunnels and shafts across multiple levels, creating a vertical system that reached roughly 450 meters in height, the equivalent of about 15 stories stacked on top of each other, all carved out using simple tools. In some sections, the exposed rock walls are incredibly old, formed millions of years ago, and stepping inside felt like entering a quiet world deep beneath the mountains.

Exhibits recreate mining scenes with mannequins and historical equipment, and information panels explain how mining shifted from gold in earlier periods to copper later on. It is said that gold from this mine was used for the Great Buddha of Todai-ji in Nara and the Golden Hall of Chuson-ji in Iwate, a thought that lingered in the moist, earthy air as we walked through the tunnels. The steady silence and low temperature made it easy to imagine how hard and dangerous this work must have been.

Beyond the tunnels themselves, there were also areas for repairing machines, a cafeteria, and even a shrine once used by the workers. We saw elevators and rail systems that had transported both materials and people. At times, it felt less like a mine and more like an entire underground settlement.

In the Edo period, attempts were initially made to extract gold from these shafts, before mining gradually shifted toward copper due to its greater abundance and value for industrial use.

The visit ended with an unexpected modern-day escalator that brought us straight back to the surface, a slightly anti-climactic but memorable way to leave the depths of the mountain. Typical Japan.

We made a short stop at a michi-no-eki rest station, where we admired the impressive size and quantity of local apples. We also bought some Akita Komachi rice and had soba before continuing on. From there, we drove toward Morioka, one of the main cities in the region, which we had already visited once before in January. Morioka was selected as one of the New York Times “52 Places to Go in 2023,” bringing wider attention to the city. It is an easy place to like, often compared to Kanazawa, and I could genuinely imagine living here.

Before heading to the former castle grounds, we stopped at a local kissaten with a cozy interior and excellent coffee, which felt like the perfect break after the long drive. We had arrived right at the peak of koyo season, and the former castle park was filled with deep red maple trees. The trees stood within Iwate Park, the old Morioka Castle ruins. Our time was limited, though, and after a short walk and a visit to a wagashi shop to pick up omiyage for friends and family, we moved on.

From Morioka, we continued back West toward Lake Tazawa, where our next stay would be at a ryokan right on the lakeside.

The post Red Leaves and White Snow: Crossing between Morioka and Goshogake Onsen appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

I am writing this in the dimly lit lobby of Hoshinoya Oirase Keiryū, sitting near the fireplace with a glass of local apple cider. Outside, trees in yellow autumn colors are softly lit. We are staying here for two nights to explore Oirase Gorge and Lake Towada in the south of Aomori Prefecture.

We left Aomori City at noon after parting with Shuta. One planned stop along the way was the Hakkōda mountain range. The name refers to eight volcanic peaks formed through repeated eruptions over the past few hundred thousand years. Our original plan was to use the ropeway to climb the mountain, but when we arrived we learned that it was closed for maintenance.

Spontaneous but capable as we are, and with the experience of Swiss mountaineering, we found another way up to the mountain. A short drive brought us to a parking area next to the Sukayu Information Center. From here, a hiking trail starts at Yakushi Shrine Trailhead (薬師神社登山口) and leads toward Ōdake-san, the highest peak in the range.

The trailhead sits directly next to Sukayu Onsen Ryokan, one of the most well-known hot spring inns in northern Japan. Sukayu is famous for its large bathing hall and long history as a place for rest after mountain travel. I had considered visiting it as a day trip and had read strong recommendations in guidebooks. Because we were staying nearby at Hoshinoya Oirase Keiryū, we decided not to go this time.

With hiking boots already in the car (they were necessary) and enough daylight left, we decided to head up. The trail began muddy and covered with fallen leaves. As we gained elevation, conditions changed quickly. Wet ground turned into snow, and the forest opened into a wide, winter-like landscape. We crossed a mountain stream several times, and higher up, the smell of sulfur became noticeable, a reminder of the volcanic ground below.

As the sun moved lower, we kept track of time, knowing we needed to return before dark. We did not reach the summit, but before heading down, Nick took out the drone for a short flight. From above, the scale of the mountain area became clearer than it ever does from the trail. With daylight fading, we turned back and returned to the car. In total, we spent around three hours on the trail.

By early evening, we arrived at our hotel Hoshinoya Oirase Keiryū. I have been wanting to stay here for multiple years already because of its beautiful ambience. At the entrance, an outdoor fireplace was already lit, and the area was busy with arriving guests. We had to wait briefly to check in, another sign of how popular the hotel was during autumn. The process itself was smooth, and communication was easy, as the reception staff spoke fluent English.

After check-in, we walked to the main lobby, centered around a large indoor fireplace. Several welcome drinks were offered, including apple cider and a smoky beer (not to everyone’s taste). This was a well deserved moment of relaxation after the hike.

Before heading to our room, we spent some time exploring the very spacious hotel. The interior feels practical and calm. Wood, stone, and living moss are used, and nothing pulls attention away from the surroundings. Much of the building is oriented toward the Oirase stream, which becomes clear once you move away from reception. Large windows face the water and forest, and there are terraces close to the stream, where the sound of running water is always present.

We shared one room with tatami flooring and futons instead of western-style beds, a clear contrast to our stay in the city. Dinner followed shortly after. The buffet restaurant was busy, and we had to put our names on a waiting list before being seated.

Inside the restaurant, the apple theme of the region extended beyond the menu into the interior design. Apples appeared not only in the dishes but also as visual details throughout the space. The food focused on regional Japanese cuisine. Raw fish, especially tuna, stood out, while apple-based dishes appeared in many forms, both savory and sweet.

Later that evening, we went to the onsen. The baths include indoor pools and an outdoor bath. Watching the moonlight illuminate the orange red tree leaves I could forget time and everything. In the dark, I could hear water nearby but did not realize how close the river actually was.

The next morning, the setting became clearer. Returning to the onsen in daylight, I could see the river flowing directly next to the outdoor bath, something that had been hidden the night before.

Breakfast offered a wide selection of local dishes. Apples again played a central role, including three different types of apple juice. While others leaned toward bread and sweet options, I stayed with a traditional Japanese breakfast of rice, miso soup, pickled vegetables, and fish.

With rain expected later in the day, we left early and drove through Oirase Gorge toward Lake Towada. Public buses do run through this area, but services are limited to one per hour. Having a car made it much easier to stop where we wanted and stay flexible.

We approached Lake Towada from the north. Our original plan was to visit the Ohanabi observation point, but access was blocked due to a seasonal road closure. In autumn, several smaller roads around the lake close without much notice. Instead, we found another observation point on the eastern side that was reachable by car.

From there, the scale of the lake became clear. Lake Towada fills a large volcanic caldera and, with a depth of over 300 meters, is one of Japan’s deepest lakes. Steep forested slopes drop directly into the water, and development along the shore is limited. At the viewpoint, Nick flew the drone to capture the caldera from above, which helped show the shape of the lake more clearly.

Then we headed towards the south side, where two peninsulas reach into the lake. This was the only spot with a sizable population at the lake area. We stopped at the Towada Visitor Center and walked along the shoreline. The trees were in full autumn color, and a light rain had started to fall. Along the path, we read about the Otome no Zo statue by Kotaro Takamura.

From there, we continued to Towada Shrine. After climbing a set of steps, we entered a forested area that felt removed from the road. The shrine has long been tied to the lake and remains an active place of worship.

On the way back, we picked up kiritanpo, konnyaku, and karaage on sticks, snacks that worked well as a quick lunch. As we moved on, the rain became heavier.

Back in the gorge, we tracked the Oirase River towards the hotel. Waterfalls, rapids, and moss-covered rocks lined the route, and the autumn colors here were already beyond their peak. After a short stop at one of the waterfalls, we returned to the hotel and spent the afternoon indoors, moving between rest, the onsen, and dinner. Later, we shared a bottle of local Aomori sake we bought at the lake while playing card games.

On our final morning, breakfast followed a similar pattern, and the dining area was again busy. With checkout set at noon, there was no need to rush. After another bath, we used the shuttle bus to reach the middle section of Oirase Gorge and started walking from there.

The full gorge stretches for about 14 kilometers along the river, which would take most of a day to walk. Instead, we focused on the most scenic section. The path stays close to the water and passes through dense forest, where moss grows thick on rocks, tree roots, and fallen logs. Not every part of the gorge is equally pleasant to walk. In several sections, the trail runs close to the road, and in others it narrows or disappears, forcing you onto the roadside for short stretches.

Along this stretch, the river is rarely calm. Rapids and waterfalls appear one after another, including Chōshi-ōtaki, Kumoi-no-taki, and Ashura-no-nagare. The sound of rushing water followed us the entire way.

We used the shuttle bus to return to the hotel. By the time we collected our bags, the rain had picked up again. We left without delay, crossing out of Aomori Prefecture and heading south toward Akita, ready for the next stage of the trip.

Omake: Family Mart and convenience stores in general keep us fueled over the trip. Not only the hot food corner but also the heated beverages are bliss on the road.

The post Deep in Nature: Hakkoda-san, Oirase Gorge and Lake Towada appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Many trips through Japan follow a well-worn path: Tokyo, Kyoto, maybe Fuji-san, and back again. Tohoku sits outside that loop. It feels less exciting, is more spread out, and asks for a bit more effort, but in return it offers space, strong regional character, and moments that feel less arranged. This part of the trip marked a shift away from familiar routes and into a region that often stays overlooked.

On the fourth day of the trip, I left Tokyo and the Kanto plain behind. The flight with ANA was comfortable, and within one hour we arrived at our next destination. After takeoff, Tokyo unfolded below us in the evening light. Passing over the Sky Tree and Tokyo Tower as the sun set felt like a quiet goodbye to the city. From here, the journey shifted north, with Aomori, at the very top of Honshu, marking the real starting point of our time in Tohoku.

Aomori Airport is small and efficient, and since only a few flights arrive at once, luggage came out quickly. From there, we took the airport bus into the city center, which stops near Aomori Station and most central hotels. My friends were already waiting, and after a quick regroup, we went out to look for dinner, hoping to start with something local.

Aomori is well known for seafood from cold northern waters. We first aimed for a restaurant offering live shamisen music alongside local fish dishes, but it was already fully booked. A Tabelog search and a short walk later, we ended up at an izakaya called Uogashi.

They offered a two-hour all-you-can-drink course menu. It was a spontaneous choice and maybe not the smartest one for the first night, but it set the tone. The courses kept coming: sashimi, sweet and spicy ebi chilli, beef steak, and finally sushi. Beer and sake followed naturally.

The plan had been a calm first evening to recover from travel, but boys will be boys, so we moved on to karaoke. In regional cities like Aomori, karaoke rooms tend to be much less compressed than in Tokyo, and we found ourselves in a huge room with two projector screens and more space than expected. After some trial and error with the Japanese control panel, we found the English menus and American songs. Time extensions and drink orders followed one after another, and we finally called it a night well past midnight.

After a short night, the next morning started with picking up our rental car at Toyota Rentacar. After checking the car and sorting out the ETC card (that has to be reserved via call center), we were ready to begin properly.

It was my turn to drive, and we made a quick breakfast stop at Sukiya. As one of Japan’s big gyudon chains, it is reliable, fast, and open early, which makes it useful on road trip mornings. With full stomachs, we planned the route of the day and headed west of Aomori towards Takayama Inari Shrine.

Takayama Inari Shrine is known for its long rows of torii gates and is often compared to Fushimi Inari in Kyoto, though it sees far fewer visitors. As we drove further out, the wind picked up noticeably. By the time we reached the shrine, strong cold winds greeted us. The waves crashed against the nearby shore, sending white foam into the air and adding to the beauty of the mystic place.

This shrine dates back to the Edo period and is dedicated to Inari, a Shinto deity connected to rice, harvests, and everyday work. The red torii gates were donated over many years by individuals and businesses. Compared to better-known Inari shrines, this one predominantly draws in the local population, which likely explains why the gates look pristine.

From there, we turned back towards Aomori to meet a recent aquaintance of mine who makes a living as calligrapher. In summer, he attended a festive gathering of the Swiss Japanese society in Zurich as guest of honor and demonstrated his art. At that occasion I told him I would be visiting his home town Aomori soon, and we agreed to meet up again.

We met at a shopping mall and shared lunch, talking about life in Japan and Switzerland. Thoughtfully he had prepared a personal calligraphy work for us with the word “Kansha,” meaning gratitude. In return, we handed him some Swiss chocolate.

With the afternoon already moving on, we set out again, this time towards the west coast of Aomori Prefecture. The drive followed winding roads along the Sea of Japan, where the landscape feels more open and exposed. Our destination was Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen, built directly at the seafront. We arrived just in time to watch the sun sink into the sea.

Unfortunately, the bathing area for daytime visitors was closing when we arrived, so we could not enter the water. Although we missed the chance to bathe, the setting sun alone made the stop worthwhile. After nightfall, we continued along the coastal road and made a short stop in the village of Fukaura, mostly for its name alone, but once there I could collect a digital station stamp.

As we worked our way back inland, we also visited Japan’s largest ginkgo tree, said to be around 1,000 years old. Standing roughly 31 meters tall with an impressive 22 meter circumference trunk, the leaves were just short of their peak yellow.

After the heavy, fried Chinese-Japanese food we had eaten earlier with Shuta, I suggested Ootoya for dinner back in Aomori. The chain is known for balanced set meals, and that was exactly what we needed.

The following morning, after checking out, we met Shuta once more for breakfast. By coincidence, we came across a small bakery offering not only Japanese classics like shokupan, but also solid western-style bread. We shared breakfast with local craft honey and continued our conversation.

Before parting ways, Shuta told us about two calligraphy works he had created for Hirota Shrine, one of Aomori City’s main Shinto shrines. Hirota Shrine has a long history and is dedicated mainly to Amaterasu, the sun deity, who is central to Shinto belief. We visited together, and he explained proper shrine manners before showing us his work. He explained how to approach the shrine, how to cleanse properly, and how to move through the grounds with respect.

The priestess and staff recognized him and invited us inside the shrine hall, an experience most visitors would never have. The priestess showed us several valuable artifacts, including Neputa floats from the 1940s. These floats are normally burned after the festival each year, which made seeing preserved ones especially striking. Translating everything into German was a challenge, but I was happy to do so for this personal visit.

It was the kind of day that only works with good company, some flexibility, and a bit of luck. Later that day we headed to Oirase Gorge still in Aomori prefecture.

The post 1000 Torii, a 1000 Year Tree and Timeless Calligraphy: In and around Aomori appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

This trip began early in the morning in Zurich where I boarded my first flight to Vienna. I was lucky to get a good deal on an ANA ticket to Haneda from Zurich with a short layover in Vienna. ANA served me well on my last long-distance trip from Tokyo back to Munich, so I was on the lookout to get a good fare.

The flight was about 14 hours and when we made our approach towards Tokyo, I could see the sun rise over Mount Fuji with its little snow hat. I could not imagine a better start to this journey. Landing so early in Haneda made immigration and all related processes smooth, so I headed into town in less than an hour after landing.

The first day in Tokyo was fairly uneventful, so I will skim over it. I arrived in the morning and was completely exhausted, but instead of waiting around for shops to open or my hotel to allow check-in, I decided to use the quiet early hours to go to the cinema. It turned out to be a surprisingly good way to ease into the city again.

For lunch, I headed to Ginza for sushi as my first proper meal on the ground and ended up at Kaiten Zushi Nemuro Hanamaru on the top floor of the Tokyu Plaza building. While kaiten sushi is often associated with quick and casual dining, places like this show that conveyor-belt sushi can also be the setting for freshly caught local fish and shellfish.

Jet lag stayed with me throughout the day. Since I had not slept on the plane during the so-called nighttime, I was effectively running on a 48-hour shift. That might not have been such a bad decision, as it forced my body to adjust more quickly. Still, I felt constantly tired, and caffeine did most of the heavy lifting.

After a late lunch, I finally checked into my hotel in Akihabara, well known for electronics and pop culture. It is also one of the most practical places to stay if you plan to move around and out of Tokyo frequently. Next to Kanda this is my favorite area to stay in town.

After some well-deserved sleep, I was ready to start the journey properly the next day.

On day two, we set off for a small side adventure to Chichibu, together with my two Swiss friends Reto and Micu, who were just wrapping up their own Japan trip.

Before leaving, logistics needed to be solved. I had two large suitcases with me, and since I would be back in Tokyo two days later, I did not want to drag them to the countryside and back. One suitcase I already sent ahead to Aomori, and the other I deposited at the hotel. Most hotels will store luggage before or after check-in, but for a small fee, they are often happy to keep it for an extra day as well—something worth knowing if you plan similar detours.

At Ikebukuro I met Reto and we transferred to the Seibu Railway toward Chichibu. Seibu operates its own network distinct from JR, and for this route there are two main options: a slower local connection or the limited express. We chose the La View, one of Seibu’s special trains, which brought us directly to Chichibu in about two hours. The train looks slightly unusual from the outside and even more so on the inside, with a fully yellow interior, but it is comfortable and relaxed—well worth the surcharge.

Leaving Tokyo behind, the scenery gradually shifted from dense urban neighborhoods to suburbs, forests, and finally mountain foothills. By the time we arrived in Chichibu, autumn was already making its presence felt. The leaves had just started to turn, and the town itself seemed to be slowly preparing for the colder season. I had been here twice before in autumn, but this time it felt noticeably quieter, almost subdued.

At the station, Micu was already waiting for us, and together we walked toward the city center. Posters advertising the Chichibu Yomatsuri were everywhere. The festival, held every year on December 2nd and 3rd, is one of Japan’s three major float festivals and has been celebrated for more than 300 years.

Walking down the main street, we noticed that many shops were closed, quite in contrast to how lively I remembered the area from previous visits. Still, one familiar shop selling wild boar and deer skewers was open, and we could not resist trying them. In mountainous regions like Chichibu, game meat is more common, and it felt fitting as a snack while wandering through town.

At the end of the main road, we reached Chichibu Shrine. The shrine does not need to hide away from some of Japan’s more famous ones, with the beautifully detailed main hall, with colorful carvings. After paying our respects and taking our time around the grounds, hunger started to take over.

Lunch was at a small soba restaurant called Irifune, hidden away in a narrow alley. A line of locals had already formed, which was all the reassurance we needed. We ordered chestnut soba, niku soba, and tempura. Chestnut soba is a local specialty, especially in autumn, when local chestnuts are mixed into the noodles, giving them a subtle, earthy flavor. Everything was excellent and well worth the wait.

Chichibu is compact, but it also serves as a base for outdoor activities. In other seasons, hiking, river activities, and visits to nearby temples are popular. I had originally hoped to do some hiking in the mountains around Chichibu, but recent bear sightings had made that a questionable idea. Every day this was a topic in the news, and people were killed by them! In rural Japan, these warnings are taken seriously, and for good reason.

Wishing to live longer, we headed north on a local train to Wado Kuroya Station, a small rural stop north of the city center. From the station, a minibus picked us up after calling and brought us to our hotel. Even before entering, a sign with my name displayed outside made it clear that we were expected. Inside, we were invited to sit down, served a welcome drink, and guided through explanations about dinner, breakfast, and the baths.

Our room turned out to be an upgrade, located on the lower floor with a view over the Yokose River flowing through the valley. The highlight was our private open-air rock bath. Staying together as a group of three, having a private rotenburo felt like a luxury, especially in such a quiet setting. Before using it, we visited the public bath on the third floor.

Dinner was the undisputed highlight of the stay. Micu had been here several times before and had promised outstanding food—and it delivered. My name was again printed both outside the dining room and on the menu, a small detail that immediately set the tone. We sat at a hori kotatsu (sunken low table), ordered sake, and settled in.

What followed was a full kaiseki dinner built around local and seasonal ingredients: smoked, grilled, steamed, and fermented dishes, river trout sashimi, hot pot with chicken meatballs, grilled fish, a small shrimp burger with a black bun, seasonal tempura, clear dashi soups, rice, miso soup with mushrooms, pickles, fruit, and bancha tea. Course after course arrived until we genuinely wondered how much more there could be. I am sure I have forgotten to list some dishes, but the photos will give the full account.

After dinner, climbing the stairs back to our room felt like a minor challenge. We ended the evening quietly, sharing a bottle of whisky from the Chichibu Distillery Ichiro (we did not finish it mind you), which has gained international recognition in recent years.

Breakfast the next morning was served in an open dining room, with several dishes already set on the table and additional sides available buffet-style.

On our way back to the station, the opposite train arrived carrying an entire class of elementary school students. When they saw the three of us, their faces shifted from surprise to excitement, and soon they were waving enthusiastically. Moments like these still feel surprisingly rare in rural Japan.

Back on the Seibu line, Reto parted ways with us to meet his wife, as they were heading to Disneyland later that day. Micu and I got off in Tokorozawa, transferred once more, and continued to Akitsu. There, we joined a line of locals at his favorite ramen chain, Nakamoto, famous for its extremely spicy ramen. I played it safe and ordered a medium-spicy version, still intense and very satisfying.

After lunch, we said our goodbyes too. Micu headed off to meet family and friends, while I made my way to Kawagoe, about half an hour away. Kawagoe has recently gained popularity among international visitors thanks to its well-preserved Edo-era streetscapes and easy access from Tokyo. It is often referred to as “Little Edo,” reflecting its history as a prosperous merchant town.

From the station, it was about a 20-minute walk to the Warehouse District, where traditional buildings still line the streets. The main road is unfortunately open to car traffic, but both sides are filled with sweets shops, cafés, and small craft stores. Kawagoe is especially known for sweet potatoes, which appear in everything from snacks to desserts.

One stop I had long wanted to make was Kuon Chocolate, a shop that employs people who have difficulty finding regular office jobs. I first heard about them through a documentary screened at the Ginmaku Film Festival in Zurich years ago, and now having the chance I wanted to support this effort.

After passing the iconic bell tower, the streets gradually became calmer again as I walked further out beyond the historic quarter. Soon, I reached Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine. Around this time of year, the shichi-go-san festival is celebrated across Japan, marking the third, fifth, and seventh birthdays of children. Families dressed their kids in kimono and visited shrines to pray for healthy growth. Hikawa Shrine, with its spacious grounds and countless ema prayer plates, felt especially welcoming during this time.

In the evening, I returned to Tokyo and stopped by Tokyo University, my alma mater, where I had spent the previous year as a postdoctoral researcher. I had planned a proper reunion later in the trip, but with some free time on my hands, I decided to drop by and suggest having dinner with one friend of mine. As soon as I appeared, everything went fast, and soon eight of us were on our way to dinner.

We ended up at the izakaya Kagaya near Hongo-sanchome station, the same place we had visited for my farewell party back then. Ordering half the menu, we talked late into the evening about past and present, science and music.

Late at night, I returned to Akihabara, this time staying at hotel Via Inn just two minutes away from my previous hotel. It remains one of my favorites, not only because of its round-tower architecture, but also because I managed to get a high-floor room overlooking the Kanda River.

The next morning, I laced up my running shoes and went for a run around the Tokyo Imperial Palace. The roughly five-kilometer loop around the inner moat is a classic among Tokyo runners, with the unwritten rule of always running counter-clockwise.

Before leaving the city, I stopped by the Nezu area near Tokyo University to visit my old hairdresser. I had been so happy with his service in the past that I made sure not to cut my hair until coming to Tokyo. He remembered me and even had handwritten notes from my last visit over a year ago. The haircut included a head spa, complete with a blanket and a pillow to rest my arms on—a kind of Japanese kind of luxury I appreciate a lot.

After lunch with a university friend, I returned to Akihabara, picked up my luggage, and made my way to Haneda Airport, ready for the next chapter of the journey, the big road trip across Tohoku.

The post Tokyo, Chichibu, Kawagoe: Starting off the trip appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

November is one of the best months to travel in Japan, especially outside major cities. With autumn colors appearing in the mountains and winter slowly approaching at higher elevations, it is an ideal time to explore rural regions beyond the usual routes. This article is the start to a series that explores travelling Japan’s North in autumn.

In October 2024, I left Japan and moved back to Switzerland. It was a conscious decision for career reasons, but one that came with mixed feelings. And now, a year later, I felt an itch to return — not just as a visitor, but as someone returning to a place, a region, and a country I know like no other.

I was not alone in that sentiment. Five close friends from Switzerland were also planning to visit Japan in autumn, and we tried to coordinate our schedules to spend at least part of the journey together. In the end, it worked out surprisingly well: out of three weeks in Japan, I spent two days with two of them and nearly two full weeks on a road trip with the other three. It turned into a good balance between shared experiences and moments of individual travel — something I have come to appreciate more and more over time.

The Theme: Tohoku in November

This time, revisiting places I already knew well was not my main priority. Instead, I wanted to focus on regions that were still largely new to me, even after multiple trips to Japan. The country offers far more than its most visible highlights, and lately, traveling in lesser-visited regions feels more balanced, calmer, and often more rewarding.

Back in January 2024, I traveled through Tohoku for five days in the depths of winter. It was a memorable and intense experience, visiting places like Hachinohe, Morioka and Aizu Wakamatsu. These cities are well connected by the Shinkansen, making travel efficient and straightforward — even in snowy conditions.

Returning to Tohoku felt like a natural choice. It was a region I had already encountered but never explored in depth, and large parts of it still felt like unknown territory. Especially the inland and western areas, where public transport becomes sparse and distances longer, had remained out of reach. Traveling as a group made one thing clear very quickly: renting a car would open up possibilities that would otherwise be difficult or impossible.

November proved to be an ideal time for this journey. One obvious motivation was autumn foliage — arriving earlier than in Tokyo, yet later than in central Europe, making it possible to experience peak colors twice in the same year. Beyond that, November offered comfortable temperatures, the end of the typhoon season, and relatively few domestic holidays, keeping visitor numbers manageable.

At the same time, we were aware of the trade-offs. Daylight hours are noticeably shorter, and in higher-altitude areas winter already begins to make its presence felt. Some mountain roads close early, and snowfall on the road is always a possibility.

This article provides an overview of the journey. Detailed impressions and travel reports from individual locations will follow in separate posts.

How the Route Took Shape

Planning this trip took more time than usual, mainly because decisions had to be discussed and agreed upon as a group. Still, the process turned out to be smooth. My companions Daniel, Matthias and Nick trusted my travel experience, allowing me to sketch out large parts of the route early on and refine it together with them.

The route did not emerge fully formed. Instead, it developed gradually through discussions, suggestions, and several rounds of revisions. About half a year in advance, we agreed on a broad framework: meeting in Aomori at the northern tip of Honshu, renting a car there, crossing Tohoku from north to south, and eventually ending the road trip in Kanazawa. From there, we would switch back to trains and return to Tokyo.

Before meeting in Aomori, the other three would first travel through Korea, while I spent a few days in Tokyo meeting two other Swiss friends, Micu and Reto. After the road trip, we (Daniel, Matthias, Nick and I) would all reunite once more in Tokyo before flying back on different flights.

From this outline, we identified a few key locations that would serve as anchors for the route. For me, two places stood out immediately.

The first was Oirase Gorge in Aomori Prefecture, famous for its moss-covered rocks, clear streams, and exceptional autumn scenery. The second was Nyūtō Onsen in Akita Prefecture — a secluded hot spring area known for its historic ryokan and milky, mineral-rich waters.

Initially I proposed to end the road trip in Niigata but Nick was interested in visiting Kanazawa so we extended the journey by another day to make it down to Kanazawa. Both cities are connected by the Shinkansen to Tokyo so both make a good end destination for this trip.

Once these anchor points were fixed, we built the rest of the journey around them, keeping daily driving distances reasonable and factoring in accommodation preferences. I was keen to stay at traditional ryokan and natural hot springs for one night each, while the others favored staying multiple nights in the same hotel for comfort. In the end, we found a compromise all the time. The itinerary was never meant to be rigid, but rather a flexible framework — and booking accommodation in advance gave us peace of mind and rigidified the broad route, so we could focus on the daily activities once there.

Route Overview

My journey would begin in Tokyo, where I would spend three days adjusting to the time difference and meeting the first group of friends arriving from Switzerland. Because their stay overlapped only briefly with mine, we decided to spend two days and one night together at a hotspring resort outside the city. After some debate, we chose Chichibu in Saitama Prefecture over Hakone. One of my friends had lived in the area for several years and recommended it warmly. Having visited Chichibu before, I knew it offered a quieter, more local atmosphere.

After returning to Tokyo for one night, I would fly to Aomori from Haneda Airport — faster and, somewhat surprisingly, cheaper than taking the train. This marked the beginning of the main road trip. The others arrived a day earlier and explored Aomori and nearby Hirosaki on their own.

Our first day together was spent around Aomori, including a drive west toward the Sea of Japan. I was eager to visit the striking Shinto shrine with its long corridor of torii gates along the coast, and to meet an acquaintance I had recently gotten to know in Zurich who now lives in Aomori.

From there, we headed south through the Hakkōda mountain range toward Oirase Gorge and Lake Towada. Staying at Hoshinoya Resort was one of the early highlights of the trip, and the surrounding forests, lake, and hiking trails offered deep immersion into nature.

Leaving Aomori Prefecture, we climbed into the highlands of Hachimantai, spanning Akita and Iwate. By November, snow was already expected here. The landscape is shaped by volcanic peaks like Mt. Hachimantai and Mt. Iwate, and dotted with hot springs. We planned to hike, soak in onsen, and witness natural phenomena such as Kagami-numa, also known as Dragon Eye Lake.

Because the mountain passes eastbound was expected to be closed, we continued south toward Lake Tazawa, Japan’s deepest lake, before reaching the remote hot spring area of Nyūtō Onsen. Since I first heard about Tsurunoyu onsen with a history that dates back to 1638 and its milky water, I wanted to experience it firsthand.

After the excursion in the mountains, we would head to Kakunodate, a former samurai town known for its well-preserved residences and historic streets. Nearby gorges offer additional hiking opportunities. Doing so, we would spend a considerable amount of days in Akita, a prefecture that is one of Japan’s least visited and rural.

Continuing south, we will spend a night in Tsuruoka in Yamagata Prefecture, a convenient stop in the Shōnai Plain and near the sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan. From there, we followed the coastline into Niigata and took the ferry to Sado Island, a place rich in history and nature — once home to Japan’s largest gold mine and today known for the Kodo taiko drumming group.

The road trip would conclude in Kanazawa, where we stayed for two nights. From there, I wiill make a short detour to Kyoto to visit an old friend in the city I once called home, before reuniting with the others in Tokyo. I spent four final days there — two with the group, and two on my own — bringing this journey full circle.

With the route outlined, the next articles will take a closer look at the individual places visited along the way. These will include impressions from the road, practical travel information, and observations specific to visiting each area in November.

The post Planning a 3 Week Tohoku Trip with a Group appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

There has been a long break on this blog once again. Over the past two years, Tabimonogatari has been more dormant than I intended, even though the experiences that usually end up here have very much continued in the background.

In the meantime, I have left Japan again after a wonderful year living in Tokyo, and I am now living in Switzerland again. As is often the case, everyday life moved faster than writing, and many stories remained as notes, or half-finished drafts.

That said, the stories from my time in Japan are far from finished. Quite the opposite: there are many waiting to be written down and shared. I have already started working on several drafts. I will not publish them in a strictly chronological order.

Instead, I would like to start with a new series focusing on my most recent trip to Japan, which took place in November 2025. This journey led me to the Tohoku region in autumn—a part of Japan that remains surprisingly underexplored despite its rich landscapes, strong local identity, and slower rhythm of travel.

I hope you will enjoy this upcoming series, and perhaps more importantly, that it might inspire you to consider Tohoku when planning your own trip to Japan. It is a region that rewards curiosity and patience.

Once this series has concluded, I will try my best to return more regularly and share further stories from my time living in Tokyo. This includes several trips I took while based there, as well as some pieces about what it is like to live in Japan beyond the perspective of a short-term visitor.

The post Back on the Road: New Stories from Japan’s North appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

In no time we reached day five of our New Year’s vacation. We spent the whole day in Morioka and had a lot of fun discovering the city.

We started the day at 7 to visit the Mikoda Morning Market. Because we were up until late the prior day, we arrived around 7:30 with an hour to spare before the market closed. While this time would have sufficed to enjoy the market fully, things took an unexpected turn.

While ordering some Japanese street food to satisfy our morning cravings, we were suddenly approached by a program director from a national TV station and interviewed about our experience in Morioka on the spot. I was surprised to find myself in front of the camera, especially so early in the day, but I (hopefully) spoke coherent Japanese for useful footage to result. I am looking forward to seeing the broadcast, and depending on the quality, I might even share it here.

Because of the lengthy interview — I initially thought the reporter would only ask a few questions — the market’s shops were already closing up for the day. However, we found a nearby shrine, Hachimangu shrine, and explored its spacious grounds. Because New Year has just passed, yatai (food stalls) and amazake booths sweetened up our time.

After the early morning adventure, we returned to our hotel to properly wake up and then continued to explore No. 2 of 2023’s NY Times Places to Visit. We also prepared for our final quest of our vacation by not eating anything from this point in time.

We continued exploring the city center, which looked more lively at this hour. The park, built on the grounds of the (former) castle, left to be desired in this season because of the lack of vegetation. But the neighboring local history museum was all the more interesting, showcasing both the history of the city and the castle, as well as the (current) festivals. I definitely want to come back in the summer to see the festivals.

Next, we found ourselves a lovely cafe near the river, called Coffee BAL. The owner not only prepared delicious freshly ground coffee but also was an interesting conversation partner (proficient in English I want to add).

As the sun was setting, we took a walk to Houonji temple before we returned to the city center. As dusk set in, we arrived at our dinner place.

Our final mission was to clear the wanko soba challenge. Wanko soba is one of three famous noodle dishes of Iwate and certainly the unique one of the three. You see, this dish is eaten in an all-you-can-eat fashion and minuscule portions of noodles are relentlessly replenished until resignation. Small things add up, and supposedly, consuming 10 bowls is considered equivalent to a regular-sized portion.

There we also reunited with the program director we met in the morning, although we did not plan to. Now I had another reason to be worried about my depiction — my speaking and eating style will be judged by millions of people.

Mentally and physically prepared for this challenge, we started the meal. Aside from the noodles, several garnishes were prepared to change the flavor of each bowl so as not to get tired. We quickly cleaned the first 15 bowls and we were given a minute break to rest before the next charge was ready. The waitress cheered us up while refilling our bowls in a continuous motion. If you want to see what I am trying to describe here, search for a video, like this one.

We prioritized time and minimized chewing to quickly pile up the bowls in front of us before our bodies signaled the capacity limit. In this fashion, we smoothly cleaned a total of 100 bowls for our and the viewers‘ satisfaction.

For no sane reason, we were given a (small) dessert to finish and received a commemorative plate.

Promptly, we left for the station, careful not to agitate our bellies. We arrived perfectly on time on the platform for the Shinkansen to open the doors. The train was fully booked, which does not happen every day. In racing speed, we traveled back to Tokyo in two hours and a bit, what a convenience over a hypothetical six-hour car ride for the 500 km journey.

With fulfilled wishes and filled bellies, we returned to Tokyo. I am happy that we could experience Tohoku, and I am looking forward to coming back.

The post Feeling Morioka (Tohoku in Winter 5/5) appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

On the fourth day, we left Hachinohe and arrived at our final destination, Morioka in Iwate prefecture. However, we left exploring Iwate’s largest city for the final day. The aim for today was to visit Ryusendo Cave in Iwaizumi, one of the largest limestone caves in Japan. A JR-operated highway infrequently connects Morioka and Iwaizumi in 2.5 hours. The ride costs about 3000 yen and is fully covered by the Tohoku and Japan Rail Passes.

While the ride was not a short one, we traversed a mountainous rural area of Iwate, offering many opportunities for photos. This time, we could not visit Hiraizumi because of the bus schedule but I would like to come back here too, maybe in a warmer season.

Ryusendo Cave is among Japan’s three largest limestone caves, together with Akioshi Cave in Yamaguchi prefecture and Ryugado Cave in Kochi prefecture. The cave is estimated to reach a length of 5 km, significant parts remain unexplored until this day. A circular path of 700 meters in length has been created to allow visitors to explore the cave on foot without specialized equipment, ladders, or ropes.

Wooden bridges have been precisely fitted to the natural shape of the cave, which allowed us to pass over the underground river and lake with ease. At the same time, minimal use of lights and installations preserved the mystical feeling of this natural reserve. Due to the high humidity, water drops trickled down on us from countless stalactites formed over thousands of years.

The cave is also a habitat for bats. A highlight is the three underground lakes that have depths approaching 100 meters. The water was crystal clear and allowed to see to the bottom of the lake.

Visiting the cave became an unforgettable memory. I definitely want to visit it again. Adjacent to the cave is a second smaller one with more exhibits and explanations about the history of the caves.

In the evening, we arrived back in Morioka and began looking for dinner. Iwate is also known for its prized seafood, so we chose an izakaya specializing in sashimi. Soon mouth-watering plates of various Pacific fish and enormous oysters stood in front of us. We rounded off the evening with a visit to the cinema.

The next morning, we started early to visit the morning market and explore Morioka.

The post Descending into the Dragon Cave (Tohoku in Winter 4/5) appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

In the next hours, we changed the scenery 180 degrees and exchanged snow-covered mountains for the icy Pacific coast. Back in Fukushima station we changed to the Tohoku Shinkansen and headed north to Hachinohe in Aomori prefecture.

En route, we stopped by Sendai to enjoy the local dish, grilled beef tongue. I can also recommend the free observation platform of the AER building just next to the station.

Hachinohe is a small city near the northern tip of the main island known for its fishery and local crafts. After two days in the mountains, we could not wait to try fresh seafood from the Pacific.

We arrived at dusk and instead of heading to the hotel, we first visited Kabushima Shrine down the JR Hachinohe Line, which was beautifully lit up at the time. Together with the sounds of the waves and the clearly visible stars the atmosphere of this place was serene and made us appreciate the beauty of nature. Fortunately, we could see the stars clearly that night.

The city center of Hachinohe lies 10 minutes by foot from Honhachinohe station, which is another 10 minute ride apart from the Shinkansen station. We stayed at the Dormy Inn hotel, a business hotel going the extra mile, literally, drilling their own natural hot spring well to create an onsen for the guests. I also appreciated the complementary local apple juice.

As mentioned in the beginning, fish was on the menu for today. We found ourselves at a small sushi counter restaurant and sampled all kinds of fresh seafood while chatting with our neighbors and the chef.

The day ended with a soak in the hot bath of the hotel and a good night’s sleep.

Hachinohe is also famous for its morning market, however it was not open on the days we were in town. So, we took our time in the morning and visited the cultural center and some shops before we decided to leave for our next destination: Iwate prefecture.

The post Onwards to the Pacific Shore in Hachinohe (Tohoku in Winter 3/5) appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

At noon we left Fukushima prefecture and headed further north. At Koriyama we changed to the Yamagata Shinkansen headed for Yonezawa. As the train climbed its way up the mountains, the landscape turned white. We continued the journey with two buses before reaching our final destination.

As a highlight of this trip, we reserved a room in a secluded mountain ryokan high up in Yamagata’s mountains. The inn’s 4×4 minibus picked us up at the last stop of the public bus line. The unpaved mountain road at the end was so steep that most cars would not have been able to climb it. The ryokan is well prepared for the loads of snow it receives for most of the year: it even has its own snowplow.

Our ryokan offered four natural hot spring baths; in summer, there is even a fifth one. Two of them feature carved-out chestnut stems, while another one is a large stone bath with a view. All but one of them were outside the house, so we had to walk a few steps to reach them. Changing into light yutakas and rubber boots — a strange combination — and walking in the midst of the fresh snow to the bath was an incredible experience hard to put into words.

Dinner was served in a private room and we enjoyed the full bandwidth of the local cuisine, with river fish, Yonezawa beef, mountain vegetables and soba noodles.

Another trip to the bath later we slept on our futons over a heated rug. The next morning, we enjoyed another bath and breakfast and yet another quick dip before we had to leave.

Everybody we met was so kind to us and we really enjoyed our stay off the grid. We are very happy having discovered this place and we are looking forward to coming back.

Leaving the snowy mountains behind, we next traveled to Aomori prefecture to Hachinohe. While we descended to sea level, we also went way further north, so snow greeted us again.

The post A Unique Onsen in Yamagata’s Mountains (Tohoku in Winter 2/5) appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Our five-day trip to Tohoku began with the sunrise over Tokyo’s skyline. We woke up at 6 am to make our way to Ueno station for the first train at 7:40. Because of the catastrophic earthquake just a day earlier, several train lines were disrupted. The Tohoku Shinkansen traveling on the Eastern side of the main island was unaffected, thus we could proceed to Koriyama station in Fukushima prefecture. There we transferred to the local service and reached Aizu-Wakamatsu within three hours.

Aizu-Wakamatsu checked all our boxes as a travel destination: called the Samurai City, the city was home to Samurai for a long time, until the Boshin War in 1848. We also looked forward to visiting Higashiyama Onsen and seeing the local crafts, including lacquerware and, of course, the local cuisine and sake.

With the circular sightseeing bus (210 single / 600 day pass) we first visited Tsuruga Castle, a reconstructed version of the 14^th century fortress. The inside housed an exhibition about the history of the region and the castle, and at the top one could enjoy the panoramic view over the city. Located in a basin surrounded by mountains, the view was great.

For lunch we visited Takino, a long standing restaurant serving wappameshi, steamed wooden baskets containing rice topped with local ingredients. In fact, the building was rebuilt using beams surviving the Edo period. Takino’s dishes are a treat for both the eyes and the palate.

Next on our list was the Suehiro sake brewery, which ran guided (Japanese only) tours every full hour. The guide spoke at an incredible speed. It was challenging to follow, but the part I could understand was more detailed than what I had heard at other breweries I had visited so far. In the end, we could also sample various products and find our shared favorite among them. In fact, we liked them so much that we sent bottles home.

We then headed for our accommodation on the outskirts of Higashiyama Onsen, just at the eastern edge of the city. Although close to the city, the turbulent river evoked the atmosphere of a secluded onsen village. Soaking in the hot spring water while watching the illuminated waterfall was a highlight of the day.

We returned to the city center looking for dinner and after meeting several full izakaya, we found ourselves in a cozy restaurant run by a single lady. We could try various local dishes, including mountain vegetables, grilled fish, and raw meat, that paired well with sake from the region.

The next day started with a delicious breakfast at the hotel. Spoilt with sashimi and freshly prepared mochi, we started the day full of enthusiasm.

Before leaving Aizu-Wakamatsu, we visited the Bukeyashiki Museum, a former samurai mansion turned open-air museum. The extensive course through the main house and the adjacent property gave us an impression of the lifestyle of the 18th century high class.

With fond memories, we continued our journey to Yamagata (Part 2).

The post Aizu-Wakamatsu (Tohoku in Winter 1/5) appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Happy 2024! Having transitioned into the New Year with Japanese customs, we began our 2024 with a vacation in the Tohoku region. Five prefectures in five days – there is a lot to see in the northern part of Honshu main island and I am sure we will come again and again.

On this trip we heavily utilized the JR East Pass available to non-Japanese passport holders and therefore selected destinations accessible by train. We started in Aizu-Wakamatsu in western Fukushima, then continued to southern Yamagata prefecture on day two. At the halfway point we traveled to Hachinohe in Aomori prefecture, the most northern point of this trip, with stops in Fukushima and Sendai. Lastly we spent a day and a bit in Morioka before returning to Tokyo.

Day 1: A castle and Sake in Fukushima

From Tokyo to Aizu-Wakamatsu and Higashiyama Onsen

Day 2: Secluded Onsen in the mountains of Yamagata

Staying at a remote ryokan 1000 meters over sea level

Day 3: From hills to coast: Miyagi and Aomori

Heading north to Hachinohe at the Pacific with a short break at Sendai

Day 4: Exploring a mysterious cave

Day trip to the Ryuusendo limestone cave and staying at Morioka

Day 5: Feeling Morioka’s culture

Exploring Morioka, the place to be according to the NYT

The respective individual posts will be linked as soon as they are ready.

The post Winter vacation in Tohoku appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Season’s greetings! This year, I am spending the end of the year in Japan (again), or in other words, we are sadly not flying home at this time. Fitting to the occasion, today I want to introduce some of the Japanese Christmas celebrations and New Year’s traditions and how we experienced them.

Advent season

Illuminations

With December coming, the streets are decorated and illuminated similar to European cities. At various places, large scale „illuminations“ are set up which attract the crowds beyond Christmas, with some staying up until the end of winter. Compared to western festive decorations, these illuminations use more colors and also include cold colors I usually would not associate with Christmas. In Odaiba we also saw an interactive projection mapping installation that was fun to play with.

Christmas Markets

Christmas Markets are the to-do thing in the weeks up to Christmas Eve. Many Japanese people are equally excited about them and replicated them in major cities. Tokyo alone has more then five ones and Yokohama also features a major one. I went to check out the quite recent one in Meiji Jingu Gaien, just adjacent to the newly built Olympic Stadium. While some familiar items feature (hot beverages, German food), the atmosphere is not quite the same and every store sells the same thing (sausages and beer) at higher than tolerable prices. The German embassy however supports the event and even donated a traditional Christmas pyramid, which was a highlight of this market.

Christmas

In the blink of an eye, it was Christmas Eve. Because Christmas is a mere celebration and no holiday here, I had to work over Christmas. Luckily, Christmas Eve happened to lie on a Sunday, so we could spent Christmas at home after all. For a lack of vendors and preparation time, we did not get a tree but tried some of the typical Japanese Christmas activities.

Christmas dinner

Here, Christmas is not a family event but one for friends and partners. We had a Japanese multi course dinner near Tokyo station to celebrate the occasion.

Christmas Cake

For a lack of ovens in Japanese’s homes and some influential marketing, roasted chicken became the classic Christmas dish here. Another typical thing is to eat Christmas cake. These cakes usually need to be reserved in advance and strawberry short cakes are the most popular variant. We also embarked on this experience, but ordered a maroon roll cake. Still, we could not resist the taste of strawberries in winter, so we bought some independently. Here strawberries are grown in green houses until winter, so they can be enjoyed in the cold months as well.

New Year’s Eve

Toshikoshi soba

We enjoyed handmade soba noodles I bought in Chichibu together with chestnut tsuyu as our version of toshikoshi soba (year passing soba noodles), a typical dish enjoyed on the last day of the year. The meaning of this tradition is that like the long noodles one hopes for a long life. Alongside we drank amazake (a hot sweet rice drink) and zouni (red bean soup with mochi rice cakes).

No fireworks but…

I don’t know about you, but fireworks are what defines New Year’s Eve for me. Here in Japan, this tradition does not exist, and fireworks are displayed in the summer instead. Thus, the New Year starts quietly with the only sound being the 108 rings of the large bell at temples. However, there is a short fireworks display in Odaiba every weekend in December.

No Countdown

Over the years, people gathered in Shibuya for counting down the New Year and celebrating. However, this year, the local authorities have canceled the gathering over growing concerns of overcrowding and dangerous behaviors (the same precautions were taken for Halloween).

Shibuya crossing on a normal evening.

At midnight it was completely silent. No fireworks, no sounds, no celebrations. At first, it was strange to greet the new year with silence, but it felt welcome, remembering all the unnecessary ambulances required because of careless firework launching. After a toast, we ventured out to experience hatsumode.

Hatsumode

Around half past 12 we left to find a local shrine for the first visit of the year, also called hatsumode in Japanese. It was no surprise that a queue already had formed but after half an hour we were at the front. From time to time we heard flute and drum play while a ritual fire was safely fueled with expired charms returned to the shrine.

New Year’s Day

What is Christmas for many people in the West, is New Year’s Day for Japanese people. It is a time for going home, spending time with the family and to relax. For this reason, the whole country shuts down between Dec. 29th and Jan. 3rd and trains and planes are booked out as the whole country is on the move.

First sunrise

Literally the first thing to do in the New Year is watching the first sunrise of the year. Observation decks and view points sell special entry tickets for January 1st and people venture out in the early hours to see the sunrise over Mt. Fuji.

We had the luxury to be able to enjoy the sunrise from our apartment.

Nengajo: New Year’s Postcards

In the last weeks of the year people write New Year’s greeting cards to their friends, business partners and anyone they are grateful for. The cards are collected until Dec. 25th and held back until the morning of January 1st. In the early morning hours, the cards are delivered all at once.

Osechi

It is tradition to eat various pre-made foods, called osechi on New Year’s day. It can be likened to a fancy version of a bento box and contains various delicacies that each have an associated positive wish for the new year. For example, shrimps are meant to bring longevity (until one is as old to bow like a shrimp).

Mochi pounding

Mochi tsuki, or mochi (chewy rice cake) pounding, is a traditional pastime around the year change. Because it is a big undertaking and requires specialized tools (a wooden bowl and mallet), the pounding is usually conducted as a community event. At work I had the chance to try it out for myself this year!

How do you celebrate Christmas and New Year’s Day? Let me know in the comments.

The post Season’s greetings appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

On the afternoon of January 1st 2024 a strong earthquake occurred on the Japan Sea side of Japan. The strongest magnitude was recorded to be 7 in the Japanese scale with shaking being felt in the whole country.

A tsunami warning was issued for the coastal regions.

We are safe. Tokyo was not affected by the earthquake.

Source: @NERV https://x.com/EN_NERV/status/1741720127413076386

The post An Earthquake on New Year’s Day appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

In late November I had the chance to revisit Kyoto, a place I connect with many memories. In 2022, I lived there for half a year while undertaking an exchange at Kyoto University.

Besides Spring, Autumn is the most popular season to visit Kyoto — for good reason. The leaves change their colors to yellow and red and countless landscape gardens change their dresses before resting during the cold winter.

While I came to Kyoto this time to attend a conference, I found a bit of time to revisit and find new temples I did not know so far. Here is a list of scenic places I think have not been found by the typical Kyoto tourist yet.

(North) East

Sekizan Zenin

First, I visited this lesser known temple in the North East of Kyoto. Following the approach up the slope I entered the quite temple area in midst of maple trees and cherry trees that began to bloom a little bit. The climate these days…

Shimagamo Shrine

One of the oldest shrines of Kyoto emits spirituality. I always enjoy revisiting this place. It is best to approach from the South and pass through the Tadasu no Mori forest.

Shisen-dou temple

Close to Enkou-ji lies Shisen-dou temple, which I preferred because it was less busy in this season. From the veranda of this temple one could meditate in front of a dry landscape garden.

Nanzenji temple

Moving south, we visited Nanzenji near my former flat. It was very nostalgic to revisit this area in particular.

North West

Ninnaji temple

On another day, I visited a few shrines in the North West that I missed last year. In place of Kinkakuji or Ryoanji I explored Ninnaji temple, another historically important site with connections to the Imperial family.

The large park between the main buildings was worth a visit by its own.

Tojiin temple

My highlight on this day was actually Tojiin temple, located in a quite neighborhood near Ritsumeikan University. The temple and the garden both were beautiful and it was not busy at all.

Arashiyama

Tenryuji temple

While I tried to avoid the popular spots, I could not help myself but visit Arashiyama anyways. By coming at 9 am I could evade the crowds to a fair degree and started right off at popular Tenryuji temple.

Hogon-in temple

A few steps further lies Hogon-in temple, that is famous for its garden.

Okochi Sanso Garden

Beyond the infamous bamboo path is a garden that attracts less attention because of its hefty 1000 yen entrance fee. But it is definitely worth entering! Show me a more tranquil place to enjoy nature and overlook Kyoto.

I hope this list motivates you to enjoy a new side of Kyoto. Another tip: avoid buses, take the subway instead and walk a lot.

The post Fall Colors in Kyoto appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

We have great news! We could secure the apartment we hoped for and moved in last week. This means this series is already concluded after two posts. That was unexpected.

To be honest, I was surprised that we were able to pass all screenings on the first attempt and could move on to signing the contract. This saved us from significant costs created by at a temporary apartment for several weeks or months. Also we only had to move once.

How did the accomplish this? We are not quite sure. But let me detail how we went about in today’s post.

The next step included the settlement of the first two months of rent and the contract fees, that included deposit, insurance and commission. All together it was good months worth of rent and it had to be paid by bank transfer.

While I could not open a bank account yet (because I was about to change my address), I was able to pay from my Wise account, so that was handy. On the day before the move-in day, we received the keys.

At this point it was important to sign up for electricity, water, gas and internet. All of this could be done over the internet. For the gas installation an appointment with a technician was necessary, and it was no trouble to schedule it on a weekend.

Different to Europe, we did not do a handover with the landlord but were asked to submit a letter with the previous damages on our own.

While the stove and lights were installed, there were no kitchen appliances so we needed to buy them on our own. The same applied to the washing machine which is usually not shared in the building.

We are now busy furnishing our apartment.

The post Apartment hunting (Part 2) appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Our first week in Tokyo unfolded in a quite different way than all those times I came as a tourist. After all, instead of sightseeing, the most important task for us is to find an apartment to stay.

We are planning to stay in Tokyo for over a year, so we valued proper apartments over furnished, shared rental apartments or dorms.

In preparation we spent a lot of time on real estate search engines (e.g. athome and sumoo), found apartments we liked within our budget and contacted real estate agents for flat viewings. We were unsure how long it would take to move into a permanent apartment, so we moved into an Airbnb rental apartment for the first two weeks.

We can see the Skytree every day now.

So far we have visited eight apartment buildings in the Eastern part of central Tokyo and applied for three of them after the viewing. We are not sure at this moment how hard it will be to be accepted for any of them, since we just arrived in Japan. We are hopeful, however, and will know more in 1-2 weeks.

Here are photos of some of the flats we looked at. Are they different to yours in your country?

The post Apartment hunting (Part 1) appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

It’s time again to wake up the blog for extensive Japan coverage. This time, however, I’m neither alone nor traveling as a tourist. In fact, together with my partner, I am moving to Tokyo for 1-2 years.

To keep today’s post short I will just mention that I will start a position at the University of Tokyo soon. Meanwhile, my partner will enroll in a Japanese language school followed by job hunting.

Because we were moving, we had plenty of luggage with us. Luckily we managed to bring all our belongings distributed in 9 bags with us unharmed.

From Zurich airport we first flew to Helsinki with Finnair, from where we continued to Tokyo Haneda Airport. To my surprise we did not fly northbound but crossed the Black Sea south of the Ukraine before heading on eastward.

After another 12 hours we landed, a full hour earlier than scheduled and quickly passed immigration and customs. Preparing the QR codes from the Visit Japan website helped to streamline the process.

With three luggage carts we waited for our taxi which we reserved beforehand. With the help of the driver we could leave the airport soon after and arrived at our Airbnb a mile north of the Skytree where we would stay for the first two weeks.

Carrying the luggage two flights of stairs in the humid hot air warranted a quick shower.

For dinner we searched for an Izakaya and found an unassuming one in the neighborhood. It turned out that the owner is from Kochi and we had a lovely chat with him and the other regulars.

Everything came together smoothly on the first day and we are looking forward to sharing our experiences living in Tokyo with you.

The post Touchdown in Tokyo appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

If you think about Japan in Summer, isn’t fireworks the first thing that comes to mind?

In 2022 most fireworks events were canceled because of pandemic-related concerns. All fireworks? No, one event was scheduled to be held and it even happened to be one in the Kansai area. The Yodogawa Fireworks Festival (Yodohanabi) has been started in1989 and grew to be the biggest in the Kansai area. It is launched on the Yodogawa river north of Umeda station and invites tens of thousands of people to watch every year.

Two months ahead of the event there was a presale for reserved seats with an excellent view directly at the riverbed. While they were pricy, I was happy I bought one since I could enjoy the long fireworks in a comfortable way. On the day of the presale I barely managed to buy a ticket before they sold out within minutes.

Fast forward to end of August. It was a fairly long walk from the station to the riverbank but just following the crowds made it easy to find the venue. On the way I saw many residents who camped on sports grounds and parks to watch the fireworks from afar.

Only when I arrived, I realized how big the event was. It felt like over 10000 people were present. Seeing how busy it was in the paid seating area, I could only imagine how it was like in the public areas.

Once I found a seat (directly next to the water), I enjoyed my complimentary bento box. Afterwards we eagerly waited for night to fall. At 19:30 the show began.

The fireworks show was the most extravagant one I ever seen. Five different pyrotechnicians showed their best works, coordinating colors, sounds and shapes. The whole performance took place over 60 minutes, with accompanying classical (Gioachino Rossini. Edward Elgar) and modern (Yoasobi, ONE OK ROCK, Mr.Children) music.

As soon as it finished people started to rush out but I took it easy to avoid the crowds. While sitting and chatting with my neighbors who also stayed behind, I suddenly felt a sensation on my knee. When I looked, I found this crab.

In the end, I was really happy I went to the Yodohanabi fireworks display. Hopefully from next year more public fireworks will be held again. If you are interested in attending, make sure to mark the starting date of the presale in your calendar — it was July 1 this year. The tickets sold out within minutes.

The whole show:

The post Yodogawa Fireworks Festival appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Kobe always draws me back after my first visit ten years ago. This time I visited the new „a to a“ aquarium in the harbor area, climbed up to Venus Bridge and strolled through the historic foreign house district of Kitano. Kobe being one of the first harbors opening up to the world was influenced by many foreign countries. This manifests in the international atmosphere, shops and architecture.

Coming from Kyoto, I alighted at Motomachi station and found my way to the Chinatown Nankinmachi minutes later, where I had lunch.

Aquarium meets art

Then I walked to the pier, where I noticed that the area has developed in my absence. There were many more buildings, including residential skyscrapers compared to 2012.

„a to a“ is one of the new attractions, a „urban aquarium“ where the fish tanks are placed in a pretty scenery to admire the sea life like living artworks.

Most tanks were free standing, round and could be viewed from all sides, quite different from the big tanks in other aquariums I have seen.

Fish and mammals were not the only animals to be seen, there was also a terrarium floor with giant turtles and lizards.

Another area featured an open pool containing koi which could be fed by the visitors.

Another eye catch was the spherical tank containing gold fish.

On the roof top there were more pools with penguins, otters and capibara.

Overlooking Kobe from the Northern Hills

After the enjoyable stay, I walked back to Sannomiya station, the city center, and started walking up the hill behind the station. Passing one of Japan’s nicest Starbucks branches, I entered the former foreign residences district (ijinkan) in Kitano. Coming here was nostalgic for me, because I used to live in this area. I even found my former flat.

Next, I stopped by the Kitano Meister Garden, a former school that now houses local shops.

The last stop was Venus Bridge, a view point above the city. It is a 30 minute climb from Meister Garden and the view is definitely worth the way.

Other good view points are on Rokko-san, Maya-san and from the Nunobiki Herb Garden.

The post A different kind of aquarium in Kobe appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Recently I visited the Setouchi Art Triennale, thanks to a lucky draw. As the name suggests, this contemporary art exhibition takes place every three years on the islands of the Setouchi region. After a day in Inujima (see part 1), I visited Teshima (part 2) and Naoshima on the second day of my trip.

Naoshima

I just made it back in time to catch the ferry to Naoshima from Teshima. Dark clouds approached the island and minutes later it began to rain. Fortunately, I could hop onto a bus right away to transfer to the south side of the island where most museums were located.

I visited the Chichu museum next, which was designed by architect Tadao Ando. The museum located underground utilizes natural light in several ways while avoiding electric lights. For that reason, the visit was interesting beyond the art itself.

First I appreciated the works by Claude Monet: five works of the Water Lily series. Then I experienced the installations by James Turrell, who plays with light in interesting ways. One of his works is simply a square room with an open ceiling, fittingly called “Open Sky”. Luckily the rain had stopped and the sun was shining at this point. The other artwork was an illuminated room that could be entered in small groups. The lighting was so diffuse that one lost the feeling of position and distance.

The third artist, Walter De Maria, constructed a large artwork on the lowest floor that was also illuminated by natural light. In the center is a large stone sphere and golden wooden pieces decorate the walls. Depending on season and time of the day, the viewing experience is always changing.

On foot, I continued to the Benesse House area which features outdoor and indoor artworks from various artists.

The famous yellow pumpkin from Yayoi Kusama was missing though since it was swept away by a typhoon a while back.

Around five I returned to the harbor as the museums closed for the day. A short ride on the top deck of a car ferry later I took the train from Uno station back to Okayama.

At the station, I had time to enjoy some tempura and buy souvenirs before boarding the Shinkansen back to Kyoto.

I am glad I went to see the Setouchi Art Triennale. The summer season has ended but the event will open for the autumn season in late September.

The post Setouchi Triennale (3/3) – Naoshima appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Recently I visited the Setouchi Art Triennale, thanks to a lucky draw. As the name suggests, this contemporary art exhibition takes place every three years on the islands of the Setouchi region.

After a relaxed day in Inujima (see part 1), the second day was packed with program because I visited both Teshima and Naoshima. The two islands are at the center of the Triennale with notable museums and a set of temporary exhibitions.

At 7 am I took the Uno line down from Okayama to Uno station, from where I continued by ferry to Teshima’s Ieura port. The weather looked fine, but strong winds were forecasted and the ferry to Inujima was canceled. Lucky me I did it in this order.

Teshima is the second largest island in the region after Shodoshima. I rented an e-bike to put myself into a position where I could see as much as possible in half a day without relying on the infrequent bus. Unintendedly, I did not make use of the motor until I climbed two-thirds of the hill, which made the ride very exhausting.

First, I stopped at a small photo exhibition of Kimiko Nishimoto which was held in a regular village house.

After reaching the top of the hill, I could enjoy a wonderful view over terraced rice fields, the island and the Seto inland sea.

The concrete dome in the background was the next destination, belonging to the Teshima Art Museum. This unconventional museum was designed by Ryue Nishizawa and Rei Naito with the intention to blend in to the surrounding nature. The dome is relatively flat and is open to the seasons.

I enjoyed the experience there a lot, but it is hard to explain without being there or showing photos (photography was not permitted in most museums). In simple terms, one entered the open dome that was illuminated by natural light and did not feature any interior. However, at many places small amounts of water arose from tiny holes which then flew across the floor, forming and shaping paddles. Watching it was meditational.

Afterwards I rode down the hill to the second harbor and passed by an immersive basketball artwork.

Soon after I arrived at the Achieve of Hearts (Les Archives du Cœur), an interactive gallery of heartbeats by French artist Christian Boltanski. Here, one could listen to recordings of heartbeats of previous visitors and also record their own for the afterworld.

One room was a corridor in the dark, illuminated by a single light bulb which flickered in the rhythm of a specific heartbeat.

On the mountain in center of the island, there was a second installation by Christian Boltanski, called La forêt des murmures. Here, windchimes with names of loved ones gave a peaceful sound together with the sounds of nature.

After seeing this much and moving around a lot as well, I was ready to eat. For lunch, I visited a restaurant that served seafood. The clam and octopus teishoku was delicious and gave me new energy.

I just made it back in time to catch the ferry for Naoshima…

Stay tuned for part 3.

The post Setouchi Triennale (2/3) – Teshima appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.

Recently I visited the Setouchi Art Triennale, thanks to a lucky draw. This summer, JR West launched a blind ticket campaign called saikoro kippu (dice ticket) where the destination is revealed after purchase. There are six possible destinations, among them popular vacation destinations, such as Fukuoka, Onomichi, Shirahama and Kurashiki.

My destination turned out to be Kurashiki, the lovely town I visited during Golden Week in May. While the perspective of visiting again was appealing, I decided to use this chance to visit some of the islands in the Setouchi Inland Sea while also attending the Setouchi Triennale.

As the name suggests, this contemporary art exhibition takes place every three years on the islands of the Setouchi region. Guides say it takes a week to see most of the art, but I did not have so much time available (and also I was not that invested in modern art) to warrant such a long trip.

Therefore, I planned a two-day trip to visit three of the art islands. To this end, the itinerary published by the Okayama Tourism board was very helpful. With no doubt, more time would have allowed to see more artworks and visit more islands, but two days were a good amount for me.

Inujima

On day 1, departed early in the morning from Kyoto, transferred to the Shinkansen at Osaka and arrived at Okayama in no time. With the streetcar, I transferred to Kyobashi bridge where a highspeed boat for Inujima should depart.

However, when I arrived, I found out the boat was canceled on that day because of concerns about the weather. The company did not announce this on their website, so I was annoyed about the unexpected turn of events. Luckily, I could still make it to the island on a different route without losing much time. A special bus operating while the Art Triennale is in session provided direct access to Hoden port from where was is a short ride to Inujima.

This island is relatively small and can be comfortably explored on foot. The must-see is the former copper refinery that was abandoned 100 years ago after mere 10 years of operation. It was then converted into an art gallery in recent times, the Inujima Seirensho Art Museum.

The museum was established without changing the former industrial ruins. Further, by saving and reusing energy the museum sets an example for sustainable architecture. The half-degraded chimneys fit in the backdrop of the idillyic and quiet island surprisingly well.

At the entrance to the facility visitors were allowed in individually and soon it was clear why. I entered a pitch-black tunnel with bright sunlight at some distance providing minimal illumination. As I approached the light, I realized (spoiler) the exit was much further away than it seemed because at the end of the corridor just stood a large mirror that reflected the light. In this fashion, the corridor wound itself in many turns and more mirrors reflected the light from the sky.

A second exhibition focused on the writer Yukio Mashima. His former house was reconstructed and floats in an underground space. Excerpts from his works were also displayed in creative ways.

After the museum I found lunch at a local restaurant near the harbor.

On the other side of the island I found a beach and a camp side. When the tide is not high it is possible to walk beside the beach to reach the Life Garden, a botanical garden which invites to contribute in raising plants and animals.

Many small art installations are scattered over the island, in midst of nature.

On the harbor side there were several more permanent art installations, collectively called the Art House Project.

In the early evening I returned to Okayama and spent the night there.

The second day I visited Teshima and Naoshima. Read part 2.

The post Setouchi Triennale (1/3) – Inujima appeared first on Tabimonogatari - 旅物語.