nomadic narrative

Discovering Nicaraguan rock art

2009-08-20T18:54:00.000-07:00

My thoughts of Ometepe Island were dominated by images of scaling active volcanoes, biking around the lake and kayaking across the island’s isthmus. Once there, I started to hear accounts of more cultural pursuits: petroglyph viewing.

I had plans to climb Maderas Volcano where evidently some 1700 boulders with petroglyphs scatter about the base. I’m not alone in my surprise about this lesser known and lesser studied archaeological wonder. Today, archaeologists are trying to piece together the history of the area. It’s thought that people inhabited the island as early as 2000 B.C., but which group is responsible for the petroglyphs is unknown. (If you’re interested in doing volunteer archaeological research, visit the Ometepe Archaeological Project.)

I decided to spend a few nights at the base of Maderas in Santa Cruz. About three hours by bus from the port of Moyogalpa, the village of Santa Cruz, though somewhat remote, is centrally located if you want to go sunbathing at Playa Domingo, hiking to San Ramón waterfall, climbing Maderas Volcano and perusing the petroglyphs.

I arrived in Santa Cruz on the local bus late in the afternoon and followed a large, white sign pointing to the Albergue Ecologico El Porvenir. Not far from the bus stop sat an enormous cement sign with the hotel’s name. I turned into a lush tunnel of trees wrapping around a one-lane road.
A few yards along the road, I noticed a giant boulder resting under a shelter topped with tejas. It was getting dark, so I had to leave the road and follow a footpath into the clearing to see why this rock deserved its own house.

I knew that I’d find petroglyphs in the area, but I had no idea that an impressive collection would be scattered around the hotel’s property. I stood still on the serene and elevated slopes of Maderas Volcano looking over the isthmus to Concepción Volcano. I was surrounded by ancient rock art an engulfed in a profound sense of spirituality.

Chillin’ in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

2009-08-15T17:02:00.000-07:00

Getting off of the ferry in San Jorge, where boats shuttle back and forth to Ometepe Island, I had plans to take a bus to the nearby transportation hub of Rivas. Once in Rivas, I was then going to take another bus to San Juan del Sur. But the bus at the port was nowhere to be found, so I decided to grab a taxi.

Sitting back with my luggage at my feet while we moseyed toward the Pacific, it didn’t take long for the taxi driver to convince me to forget about the bus and instead pay a few extra dollars to get to the beach within the next half hour.

I arrived in San Juan del Sur just after noon. While the well-paved streets invite traffic, the town was not at all congested. Clouds shielded pedestrians from the mid-afternoon sun making the humidity tolerable.

Eager to dig my toes into the sand after a week of biking around Isla de Ometepe, hiking to San Ramón waterfall and climbing Maderas Volcano, I quickly checked into my hotel and headed to the beach, two blocks away. Needing córdobas to fund my fun-in-the-sun, I set off to find an ATM which turned out to be a cinch.

It was a sleepy afternoon with just a handful of people in each restaurant lining the waterfront. I found steps to the beach and joined the other beach-goers for a barefoot jaunt across the warm sand. I picked out a bar/restaurant called The Pier which was playing some fun tunes and importantly had fold out fabric chairs and hammocks dotting the sand.

With a Toña cerveza and chips and hummus on the way, I let my senses wander from construction sites, to a group smashing a piñata to the giant Rio-de-Janeiro-like Christ figure looming over the town.
At first I was disappointed to see high-rise developments growing along the water’s edge. On second thought, given the bustling marina characteristic of an old fishing town, and the nearby undeveloped beaches, building up around the bay made sense. Of course, placing tough restrictions on development at the nearby pristine beaches will be a must to round out the balance.

I slept in the next day and decided on a late breakfast at a fancy gourmet coffee shop I had spotted the day before. The menu chalked on a blackboard at the entrance read: “Nica wrap.” When the waiter described it, the dish sounded just like a giant breakfast burrito I might get in SoCal. It was going to be a full day at the beach, so I decided to go big. It was huge.

“You ate the whole thing,” said the waiter with a smile. Feeling the need to explain away my gluttony, I said that I needed the extra calories for a long beach day ahead. With plans to swim, it made sense to me.
To get to the nearby beaches, you either need to take a car, a taxi or the only public transportation I could find — a charabanc cart which left the Casa de Oro hostel a couple of times a day. Thirty minutes from town stretch some of Nicaragua’s hottest surf spots. I chose Maderas beach because there are lots of little coves you can walk to from the beach in front of the parking area.
I took the last ride out at 5:30 p.m., just in time to see a spectacular sunset encase San Juan del Sur. Blue, orange and green facades throughout the town mirrored the colorful sky. The town plaza was alive. Children played games, couples chatted on benches and hymns poured from the church’s open doors.

I finished the day with a plate of homemade pasta so delicious that it has left me with cravings. The Pizzería San Juan, unassuming from the outside except for the crowds, makes a spaghetti or fettuccine dish (your choice) with a “mar y monte” sauce. Mar means sea in Spanish and refers to the shrimp in the dish. Monte means mountain and denotes the mushrooms.

San Juan del Sur is just an all-around cool beach town.

Zen and Nicaraguan sunsets

2009-08-14T19:03:00.000-07:00

The joy I feel watching the day move from dusk to dark reminds me of the way the Japanese appreciate the seasons. The change of seasons is an opportunity to celebrate our connection with nature and to reflect on the transitory nature of life itself. On my recent trip to picturesque Nicaragua, I saw a variety awe-inspiring sunsets.

Concepción Volcano on Isla de Ometepe

San Juan del Sur

Granada

Climbing Maderas Volcano on Isla de Ometepe

2009-08-09T17:26:00.000-07:00

I set off with a group of five and a guide from Finca Magdalena at 7:30 a.m. It was overcast and cool, but still warm enough for shorts and a t-shirt. Breakfast started at 6:30 a.m., which gave me plenty of time to enjoy an egg sandwich and to order and extra one for the road.

Our local guide gave a brief introduction to the hike which sent some people off to their rooms and to the kitchen. One liter of water was the minimum; a rain jacket would come in handy; and you’re going to be hungry at the top. The guide wore tall rubber, mud-caked rain boots — a foreshadowing.

Of the two volcanoes which form Isla de Ometepe in Nicaragua, Concepción is the highest rising 1610 meters above the Lago Cocibolca (also known as Lake Nicaragua) into a perfect cone. It’s active, with the last major eruption happening in 1957, and it’s more barren in term of flora and fauna compared to Maderas Volcano. For hikers, this means the climb is much steeper and the lack of vegetation exposes you to the elements.

On the other hand, the last time Maderas Volcano erupted was in the 13th century, so the trails lead through fertile farmland and tropical rain forest and cloud forest to 1394 meters. Once at the volcano’s rim, hikers can follow a very steep 20-minute trail into the crater, and bathe in what some call the laguna mágica.

There are four popular Maderas trail heads at varying distances from the top: Finca Magdalena (5 kilometers), Finca El Porvenir in Santa Cruz (6 kilometers), Mérida (7 kilometers) and San Ramón (8 kilometers). The most challenging part of the Finca Magdalena trail is from the mid-point to the top where you rely on well-placed rocks and roots to find your footing.

In the absence of rocks and roots, you will at times have to slosh through ankle-deep mud. On the way back, our guide said there’s a saying they have about the hike: “If you don’t come back covered in mud, you didn’t hike Maderas.”

If you can only make it to the mid-point, you will still be rewarded with spectacular views of the lake in the direction of Playa Santo Domingo and the isthmus leading to nearby Concepción Volcano.
Though, you will miss the surreal and spindly, moss-covered trees which hover at the volcano’s rim.

Hiking to San Ramón waterfall on Isla Ometepe

2009-08-03T13:54:00.000-07:00

I’m writing at the foot of San Ramón waterfall on Ometepe Island, Nicaragua while my clothes dry and tiny rainbows flutter in the mist. Green, sheer cliffs frame the waterfall and a cool, shallow pool rewards hikers.

The first leg of the trail was a bit deceiving. Starting out along paved paths from a well-manicured park complete with gazebos, barbecues and a restaurant overlooking Lake Nicaragua, I thought the three kilometer hike was going to be too easy.

I followed a steep, one-lane road for 1.5 kilometers which had two rows of cement blocks to give cars traction. The well-marked, dirt road leveled off for a stretch and then returned to an incline. The climb was steep but smooth and the one hour bike ride from Santa Cruz had loosened up my hiking legs.

At what seemed like the two kilometer mark, there was a parking lot which connected to a much narrower trail – now it felt like a hike. Following the earthen path carved into thick tropical forest, Blue Morpho butterflies along with a multitude of other species led the way. Lizards darted to and fro and howler monkey bellowed in the distance.

I exchanged greetings with a group coming down the path when I recognized someone from my Mombacho hike. She said that the waterfall was far and all uphill, but that I would be able to take a swim when I arrived.

She was right, the trail continued straight up. I reached a creek where another group was crossing. I asked them for directions and they pointed into the canyon. Wading through ankle-deep water and finding footing on large rocks, while avoiding clumps of rusted chain-link fence, I made it up the middle and along the sides of the creek to where the trail began again. The canyon’s rocky walls towered above, careening toward the creek.

The crescendo of rushing water ensued until the waterfall dominated. An hour and a half past the trail head, I arrived drenched in sweat and thankful for the 1.5 liter of bottled water and the swimsuit I was carrying in my fanny pack.

Getting there:

For an all-day adventure, you could ride bikes (or motor bikes) from Altagracia, Playa Domingo or Santa Cruz. If you want to stay close-by and walk, there´s the popular Monkey Island Hostel, a few other fancier places in Merida and the Eco-albergue El Porvenir in Santa Cruz.

Hiking Nicaragua’s Mombacho Volcano

2009-08-01T13:15:00.000-07:00

Lacing up my hiking boots on a hot and humid Granada morning, I started to wonder if I were overdressing. Perhaps I could get away with a pair of Tevas around Mombacho Volcano, I thought. Deciding on the boots, I peered into my bag and considered bringing my wind breaker. The black, long-sleeved garment looked like the last thing I’d ever wear on such a steamy day.

I met my tour group along the calzada, Granada’s pedestrian walkway, just before our scheduled 9:00 a.m. departure. We were an intimate and diverse group of four, including our guide from Nicaragua. (The United States ― living in Costa Rica, French ― living in Egypt, and Holland ― working as a tour guide around the world.)

In a mini-van, we sped through the colonial town and 15 minutes (10 kilometers) into the countryside to the Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho. As we pulled up, a youth group from the United States was pouring out of a yellow, school bus. Forming a circle, the leader gave two brief instructions and then laced his hands and bowed forward with the group in sync singing, "Swing Low, Sweet Chariot…"

At that moment, our guide appeared and said that we would have to wait 40 minutes because the youth group had already booked the charabanc cart which transported passengers up the mountain. No worries. We bought cuajada, torpedo-shaped pieces of soft, white cheese wrapped in homemade tortillas and bags of coffee. Our guide pulled a couple of mamóns, a fruit from the rambutan family, off of the tree and we sat on one of the picnic benches to enjoy our mid-morning snack.

As we were sipping lukewarm coffee from a tear in the plastic bag ― the custom in these remote parts ― and watching howler monkeys leap from branch to branch, up pulled three more school buses full of local teenagers. Screaming and laughing, they competed with the howler monkeys which are said to be the loudest animals in the world. According to our guide, it was an unusually crowded day at the park.

At 11:00 a.m., the four of us, along with hordes of excited field trippers, hopped onto the park’s "ecomobile" and began the steep ascent to Mombacho’s crater at 1,345 meters above sea level. We arrived at the main lodge 20 minutes later. The temperature was much cooler which made me recall that wind breaker.

The local ranger led us to a miniature model of the area and briefly explained the area’s topography, flora and fauna. We also got a quick tour of the available, rustic upstairs accommodations for overnight visitors keen on spotting the endemic Mombacho salamander which only comes out at night. (At $30 with all meals and tours included, I’d say the Eco Albergue Mombacho is a great deal!)

The trail head was well-marked and the paths well-maintained ― I could have worn the Tevas. The 1.5 kilometer loop around the first crated is self-guided if you can read Spanish. Though, often it’s more fun to go with a local guide who can share insights and anecdotes. Other trails include "Cráter Mombacho 2" and "Sendero el Puma (4 kilometers)," both which require a guide due to the difficulty, the remoteness and as our guide explained "to have someone who can radio for help in case you get attacked by an animal." (see prices below). There are tigrillos and jaguars in the park, but given the heavy traffic, I’m guessing that those are rare sightings.

The first mirador, or viewpoint, was less than 10 minutes from the entrance and leaned over the lush crater. At first we couldn’t see anything through the clouds, but a sudden gust of wind revealed the deep pocket in the earth’s surface. We continued along the trail through cloud forest and dwarf forest. After warming up next to one of the fumaroles, we headed to another viewpoint where, on a clear day, you can see Grenada, Lake Nicaragua and the Isletas.

We couldn’t see a thing. Our guide looked at the sky, at his watch, and at the sky again and said that we had plenty of time if we wanted to hang out and wait for the sky to clear.

Thwack! A raindrop the size of a golf ball hit my leg. Two. Three more! We ran up the path. The wind started to blow so hard that I had to cover my ears. A woman up the trail who was carrying an umbrella was lifted into the bushes. It took two men and a woman to help her up. At that point everyone hot-footed it back to the lodge without stopping to marvel at a single bromeliad or epiphyte. The experience gave me a sense of how mountain climbers who get caught in unexpected storms might feel.

Empapada, soaking wet in English, became our word of the day. Luckily, our guide successfully negotiated a seat for all of us on the next ecomobile. I got the warm, front seat, but felt compelled to tell my new friends that the AC was blasting and I froze the whole way. Back in Grenada felt like being next to the volcanic fumaroles again.

I am reminded that even a seemingly "tame" excursion can turn into an adventure.

Getting there

By bus: From Granada take a bus toward Rivas (near the market) and get off at the Mombacho stop at a junction called El Guanacaste, about a 20-minute ride. From the junction, take a taxi or walk two kilometers to the park’s entrance up the dirt road.

By car: Follow the signs along the Granada-Nandaime highway. From Managua, take the highway to Masaya. Continue past Masaya for a couple of kilometers where you will have to take a right following the signs that say Catarina. Continue to the Granada/Nandaime highway) and you will see the dark wood sign painted Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho in yellow on your left.

By tour: There are many operators. Make sure your tour includes transportation and all entrance fees.

By "ecomovile" from the park’s entrance to the crater: 8:30 a.m. to 10:00 a.m. / 1:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m.

Entrance fees in Cordobas:
Children on foot 15.00
Children with transportation 60.00
Nationals on foot 25.00
Nationals with transportation 100.00
Foreigners on foot 50.00
Foreigners with transportation 200.00

Guide service prices in dollars:
Mombacho Crater 1 $5 (max 10)
Tigrillo Trail $10 (max 5)
Puma Trail $15 (max 5)

Park hours:
Closed Mondays
Tuesdays and Wednesdays by reservation only (call 505+248-8234 or 8235, fax 505+249-4144 or email fcrnvm@ibw.com.ni)
www.mombacho.org

Granada, past and present

2009-07-30T21:17:00.000-07:00

I love looking at old photographs of a city. Sometimes things have grown so much that a place is virtually unrecognizable. Other times, it’s amazing how little has changed.

In Granada, Nicaragua at the San Francisco Convent and Cultural Center, part of the permanent collection includes a series of early 20th century photographs of the area. I decided to record a few and find the same spots in the city to see how times have changed, or not:

Market's Main Entrance 1910

Market's main entrance 2009

Bus terminal 1930

City bus 2009

Calle Xalteva 1926

Calle Xalteva 2009

Biking, horseback riding and walking around Isla de Ometepe

2009-07-26T17:30:00.000-07:00

You will see far more people on bikes, on horses and on foot than in cars around Ometepe Island in Nicaragua. The tree-lined roads with views to the lake and to the towering volcanoes make slow strolls a picturesque option. Not to mention an opportunity to keep that ecological footprint low.
From Altagracia, I rented a mountain bike and rode a few kilometers down the main road which is topped with pervious pavers instead of asphalt, adding to the charm. At the turn-off known as Cuatro Esquinas, I headed about 5 kilometers down a rust-colored, dirt road following signs to Ojo del Agua, a natural swimming hole, and Playa Domingo, a popular beach hangout.

I pedaled past grazing cattle, young rice stalks leaning in the wind and machete-clad men walking home from the fields. At times a bell would have come in handy when I had to struggle with cows for space on the road. I passed tourists and locals sauntering along the quiet country road. Occasionally, farmers and tourists would trot by on horses so fit and healthy that even a novice could pass for a pro.

Sipping a cold Toño cerveza or a tall glass of pitaya juice next to the beach is a nice reward after the bumpy, yet scenic ride.

The road to Isla de Omotepe, Nicaragua

2009-07-25T16:46:00.000-07:00

Catching my first glimpse of Concepción Volcano as we cruised into Moyogalpa port on Isla de Ometepe at sunset was another one of those unexpected treasures at the end of a long day of traveling. Starting from San José, Costa Rica at 8:00 a.m., I was just arriving to the island at 6:30 p.m.

I left the San José bus station right across the street from the Monteverde and La Fortuna bus terminal (where you can pick up a hot cup of coffee and an apple strudel) - about 200 meters north of the Coca Cola station. I took the second bus out that morning at 7:45 a.m. Delayed by the Policía Nacional who pulled the bus over and arrested three passengers, we arrived to the Costa Rican/Nicaraguan border known as Peñas Blancas at 2:15 p.m., just as the skies decided to cleanse the border´s dust-and-exhaust-filled air.

Bombarded by kids handing me the official paperwork, and money changers shuffling fistfulls of Córdobas, I made my way into the immigration center on the Costa Rican side. The walk to the Nicaraguan side was a good 400 meters through a second passport check. Two long lines and seven dollars later, I had my stamp and was officially in Nicaragua.

Passing through a turns-dial gate, I was stopped at the entrance by a police officer who asked for my passport. And, once through, by a young woman in jeans and a blouse who handed me a small, printed receipt from the local mayor´s office and requested $1. Now, I was officially in Nicaragua.

I jumped on an old, yellow school bus which still had the rules of conduct for American children pasted to the wall: "Behave on the bus as you would in the classroom." I got off after 45 minutes, just before the transportation hub of Rivas, at "La Bomba," which means gas station, at the turn-off to the port and grabbed a taxi for the remaining 10-minute drive.

Squeezing onto the ferry packed with huge, round baskets of vegetables, bags of rice, and motorcycles, I sat on the bow ready to breathe in the cool breeze sweeping across Lake Nicaragua. First came the sunset, and then, the views:

It’s the journey, not the destination

2009-07-21T21:52:00.000-07:00

Many people look at the travel time between destinations as a necessary evil — the real fun beginning when you reach the planned last stop. Traveling with two friends this week, I was reminded that even if you only have a few days to visit a country, *how* you travel can make a huge difference.

From San José, Costa Rica we jumped on a Nature Air flight to Bocas del Toro, Panama. As we peered out of the Twin Otter’s large windows, we got a birdseye view of the tropical landscape we would later cross by boat and bus.

After two days of sampling Caribbean food, motoring between tangled mangroves and dancing at the local hot spots, we left Bocas on a public water taxi. With 15 other men, women and children, we departed from Colon Island at 9:30 a.m. and embarked on a quick, 30-minute journey across the Caribbean Sea to the port town of Almirante.

Pulling into Bocas Marine’s two-slip, wooden dock, a man on bent knees announced his taxi service to the Costa Rica/Panama border. Signaling interest, he offered his hand and helped us squeeze out from under the boat’s canopy. Ten balboas to the border, he said. (Even though Panama uses the U.S. dollar, the currency is referred to as “balboas.”) After a little bargaining, we were off in his gold, mini-van.

Winding through lush tropical forest and banana plantations, we arrived in front of the Changuinola bus station and parked behind a black, four-wheel drive taxi with female decals on the rear window. Out jumped a portly man in a baggy, red t-shirt and a baseball cap who waved us into his taxi. He’d be taking us to the border. We all swayed back and forth listening to Latino rock. Once at the Sixaola border, he left us with a heartfelt: “Thank you for visiting my country.”

We navigated the tiny border crossing, trekked across the 100-year-old “bridge of death” which stretches across the wide, light chocolate-colored river separating the countries, and grabbed a bus on the Costa Rican side. (Read about border crossing options here.) By noon we were on our way to Limon driving through banana plantations and later along the palm-studded coast.

From Limon, we took another bus at 3 p.m. to Guápiles passing river after river and munching on typical home-made snacks sold at bus stops along the way. Once in Guápiles, we thought we’d see how much a taxi would cost to La Fortuna. At 50,000 colones, we decided that a taxi ride would definitely form part of our road-trip adventure.

Two hours and just one, deep pothole later, we arrived to the bustling tourist hub of La Fortuna at the base of the active Arenal volcano. We dropped our things off at the hotel and headed straight for the luxurious Tabacón hot springs.

Soaking our well-travelled bones, we reflected on our amazing day. Not a boring stretch of scenery. While we had reached our destination and the natural hot springs were a soothing treat at the end of a long day, it was the journey that made us smile.

See green, think green, act green

2009-07-12T20:06:00.001-07:00

Blue skies peeked out from behind snow-white clouds this afternoon. Rays of sunshine made the lush green mountains sparkle. Gazing at the verdant hills that surround San José over tin rooftops and through tangled telephone wires as I walked down the street, I felt a sudden connection with nature.

This feeling made me think of a recent article I read about urban planning in San José — what most would say is an oxymoron. The visiting urban planners recommended new ways to incorporate San José’s rivers and mountain views into a comprehensive plan for the capital. The idea being that if people have the opportunity to feel close to nature within the city, they will then be encouraged to think green and, consequently act green.

This fleeting experience today reminded me how important it is to find opportunities to commune with nature — whether that be through walks in the forest, gardening in your back yard or stopping to marvel at flowering trees lining a busy boulevard. As the saying goes, out of sight, out of mind.

My favorite view in the capital.

Costa Rica tops "Happy Planet Index"

2009-07-06T21:43:00.000-07:00

A group using the Happy Planet Index has conducted a study to determine the “happiest” countries in the world. The survey takes into consideration three variables: happiness, ecological footprint and life expectancy. Interestingly enough, Costa Rica tops the list. Read the article here.

It doesn’t surprise me that Ticos (short for Costa Ricans) would express that they are “happy.” The lifestyle here simply exudes it on a daily basis. Language is always a good indicator of culture. One of Costa Rica’s most popular expressions is “pura vida,” which translates literally as “pure life” and means something like “cool” or “life is good.” Whenever you ask someone in Costa Rica ¿Cóma está? or ¿Que tal? (How are you, in English) the inevitable response is “pura vida.”

This more laid-back, happy-go-lucky attitude frustrates some who demand that life move at a faster pace. The bottom line is that life does not move fast here, and if anything, visitors or expats who feel frustration at this, need to step back and grab onto those moments as opportunities for self-reflection. In this period of self-reflection, will most people not opt to re-prioritize in order to spend more time with their family or enjoy a drink with friends?

If we analyze these experiences, which ask us to shift consciousness, we can redefine our idea of “success,” and collectively lead more fulfilling and happy lives.

The global crisis has pushed many of us into reflection. We have an opportunity to set new priorities and redefine the way we live. As the article points out, it’s not only important for our own well-being, but for the health of the planet, a place we all share.

Read BBC’s take on Costa Rica and other Latin American countries topping the Happy Planet Index here.

Breathing in the cool, moisture-laden air while hiking around the Monteverde Cloud Forest.

Fourth of July in Costa Rica

2009-07-04T15:57:00.000-07:00

Hot dogs? Check. Beer garden? Check. Fireworks? Check.

With 200,000 plus expats, mostly North American, living in Costa Rica, the Fourth of July holiday doesn’t go unnoticed. In its 49th year, a group called the American Colony Committee recreates all of the festivities one might miss back home right here in the capital, albeit a day early on July 3rd.

In Costa Rica’s English newspaper, the Tico Times, delivered every Friday morning, I got the 20 page Fourth of July Picnic Program — dubbed the “Souvenir U.S. Independence Day Edition 2009” — with a few hours to spare before the 8 a.m. kick off. It seems a little early to me, being that the picnic only goes to noon; however, people often like to get an early start in Costa Rica. (I didn’t make it.)

The program’s first page has a happy fourth from Costa Rica’s president, Oscar Arias. This year, Arias says: “As you look back on this most recent year in the life of your county, you have a great deal to celebrate, including the renewal that is the hallmark of a great democracy…And on Jan. 20, the world celebrated with you once more as you marked a historic moment…this year, your country has received the best birthday gift any nation can hope for: proof of a democracy that is strong, vibrant, dynamic, and always committed to the noble principles that first brought it to life.”

Nice words from our ally. Despite the tough times, we do have a few things to celebrate. Happy Fourth of July U.S.A.!

Navigating San José’s Mercado Central

2009-06-27T17:02:00.000-07:00

San José’s Mercado Central is a microcosm of the entire capital. Built up over the years without any urban planning, in the market like in the capital, one minute you’re plugging your nose as you walk past a fish stall and the next minute you’re stopping to suck in the fragrance of fresh laurel leaves.

Smack in the middle of downtown stretching between the pedestrian walkway known as Avenida Central and the car-congested Avenida 1, the indoor/outdoor market is always a lively place.

Me queda dos de cuarenta y siete! I’ve got two, forty-sevens left!, screams a portly, grey-haired man sitting behind a table of lotto tickets at the entrance of the Mercado Central. Diez y siete! Seventeen!, shouts a woman in her fifties wearing a necklace of lotto tickets standing nearby.

Passing through one of the many entrances, the calls ensue: Que se le ofrece? Que busca? What can I get you? What are you looking for? More than aggressive sales, it feels more like just good customer service. Once inside, you can find everything from chicken feet to fresh roasted coffee to miniature carretas, hand-painted oxcarts (see carreta picture here), and so much more...

Walls of chancletas.

Just outside, El Trébol sells roasted nuts. You can't help but linger
by the door in the warm, buttery air.

The market is full of food and drink stalls. My favorite is Café Central.
This is an "Ice Coffe Central" (as it appears on the menu) made with
café crema de coco, licor de café and ice cream - all for 1700 colones, sprinkles included!

Location: The Mercado Central is located on Avenida Central and Avenida 1 between Calles 6 and 8.
Hours: The market is open from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Read about my first trip to the Mercado Central here.

Manuel Antonio’s top 10, and more

2009-06-22T21:06:00.000-07:00

I was anxious to get out of the city mid-Thursday afternoon. I hot-footed it to the Coca Cola bus station in downtown San José to catch the noon bus to Manuel Antonio; however, much to my chagrin, it was full. I was quickly directed to the “collectivo” which was departing at the same time. It was really just an hour longer, for a total of 4 ½ hours, and I was curious as to where the long route would take me, so I hopped aboard.

Slamming on the breaks just before crashing into a tree, the bus veered. Thankfully, not too far off of the road as the precipice to the left was a sheer drop to the valley below. At least half of the ride to Manuel Antonio on the “collectivo” happened along a dirt road past isolated towns — a great experience, for the adventuresome.

After navigating the busy city center and the country back roads, I had finally landed in warm and tranquil Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica with a long weekend ahead to research my favorites:

Believe it or not, you can totally do a “Bridget Jones” in Manuel Antonio Park. So, you say you’ve only got a sarong and sparkly flip-flops, but you want to hike from the park entrance two kilometers to one of the tamarind-lined coves? … no worries. However, if you really want to play the part, wear a pair of Crocs or Tivas — you can still keep the sarong.
Take a guided tour of the park to really experience and learn about the area’s natural beauty. The local guides just have a knack for spotting wildlife.
Pack a few snacks to bring into the park, but beware that voracious monkeys will sniff these out. If carefully concealed, you will not have a problem. Bring water, sandwiches and fruit. Alcoholic beverages are not allowed in the park unless they are discretely concealed as the park ranger will point out.
Hopefully you’ll have an extra day to rent a chaise lounge along the main beach. From this perfect people-watching spot, take dips in the sometimes rough waters, sip piña coladas, have lunch delivered and just enjoy a good book under a giant, beach umbrella.
For a great sunset cocktail, head to the Barba Roja. The patio commands a spectacular sunset. The staff are friendly and the bartender makes a mean mojito.
For a dinner of fresh shrimp spring rolls and Panko-crusted tuna with views to the Pacific, don’t miss the Agua Azul restaurant. It’s definitely the town’s “in”spot.
Alas, the night is young! Walk a few hundred meters to the historically fascinating El Avión restaurant for drinks and dancing. There is also a very decent restaurant.
If you like a good, strong cup in coffee in the morning, head to Café Milagro. Also, if you want to pick up a few souvenirs for family and friends, there’s a good collection here.
For the days when you’re in the mood for something more casual, right across the street from the very large liquor stone on the main road, there’s a tiny soda, a mom-and-pop restaurant, serving great casados.
For 200 colones, about 50 cents, you can take the public bus to the bustling town of Quepos, just 15-minutes away. The buses travel in 30-minute increments. Wander the streets perusing local shops, eateries and bars. For a splurge, drink a margarita and eat some fish tacos at El Gran Escape.

To love Manuel Antonio, you have to know how to balance the disarray of the beachside town by finding refuge in the spectacular hillside retreats which line the road to Quepos.

Fighting flies with water bags

2009-06-14T20:05:00.000-07:00

With desperation comes innovation. The onslaught of bugs encountered throughout the year in the tropics is enough to drive anyone to inventive measures. I spent an hour the other day researching ideas for a new drink topper, specifically designed for a wine glass.

It’s been warm and muggy the past couple of weeks as the rainy season starts. This has attracted mosquitoes and flies. A small soda, a mom-and-pop restaurant, I ate at yesterday was using a very economical method to fight flies — each table was topped with a clear plastic bag filled with water. Read a well-researched post about this remedy here.

All in all, I think the food enticed far more than the water bag averted because I hadn’t seen a fly until my plate arrived.

Read about bug battles in Costa Rica here.

Spanish colonial doors

2009-06-12T16:04:00.000-07:00

Antigua, Guatemala is so architecturally stunning and full of life that I couldn’t figure out how to capture this on film. In the end, I tucked away my camera and just wobbled along the cobblestone streets popping into various cafes, shops and restaurants. Every once in a while, I’d pull out my camera to capture a part of Antigua that continuously caught my eye — its doors.

In this Spanish colonial city, people used to travel around by horse. The large doors worked like a garage door might today — big enough to allow your mode of transportation entrance. Some of the doors around Antigua still have door knockers above eye level, a comfortable height for those on horseback.

Sexual tolerance in Costa Rica

2009-06-07T17:37:00.000-07:00

Costa Rica has a high degree of sexual tolerance and it is also a predominantly Catholic country. Prostitution is legal and the courts are currently considering lifting the ban on same-sex marriage. You can see examples of the level of openness in two malls near my house.

This sex shop is on the second floor of the San Pedro Outlet Mall.

A few doors away next to the gym, this one sells
"toys for adults" and "kid and adult costumes."

The "Sexy Shop" is next to the Tommy Hilfiger store on the first floor
of the San Pedro mall, which from the front really just looks like a Frederick's of Hollywood.

Take two under Santa Catalina Arch

2009-05-31T20:52:00.000-07:00

After a morning coffee in the Plaza Mayor in Antigua, Guatemala, I walked up 5a Avenida Norte where you get to pass under the famous 17th century Arch of Santa Catalina. Spotting a swiveling camera, a pair of BMWs and a man holding a light reflector, I joined the small crowd at the corner. The driver’s doors opened and out jumped two young guys in their early twenties wearing Puma sweatshirts and jeans. Bopping and smiling, they met each other at the front grills and slapped each other on the back before bouncing toward the camera.
Standing next to a police officer, I asked what was going on and he said, “a BMW commercial.” How strange, I thought - maybe a commercial for wealthy parents who want to spoil their kids. An hour later I passed by and just one of the guys was waving his arms and singing.

I never got the whole scoop, but I’m thinking that it was a music video; though, I didn't spot any groupies, or even a crowd for that matter. Being one of the region’s most photographed colonial monuments, I imagine that this is just another afternoon under the arch in Antigua.

Weaving at Lake Atitlán

2009-05-27T17:16:00.000-07:00

After a late breakfast, I jumped on a public water taxi at Sun Juyu dock in the lakeside town of Panajachel, know as Pana locally, on Lake Atitlán in Guatemala. It was sunny and hot and I started to regret wearing a long-sleeved ,black t-shirt. As soon as we sped away, the cool wind had me quickly changing my mind.

I was heading across the lake to San Juan La Laguna known for its textiles woven with hand-dyed and hand-spun thread all fashioned from locally grown cotton. Many public boats stop at all major villages along the lake, but I was lucky enough to get on a direct boat to San Pedro, which then continued to the nearby village of San Juan La Laguna.

At the end of the short wooden dock, there is a small brick building with “Home of the Tz'utujil” etched across the front in large, black Roman letters.” The Tz'utujil are one of the 21 Maya ethnic groups that live in Guatemala. Opposite stood a sign advertising “Tejidos de Tinte Natural Lemá,” in English: Naturally Dyed Textiles Lemá. There was also a phone number: 502+2425-9447.

I had heard that you could tour the different weavers’ cooperatives around San Juan La Laguna. Overhearing two Spanish women lisping about textiles, I asked them if they knew where I could take a tour. At that moment, a young woman wearing a traditional pink lace blouse tucked into a long, dark-blue woven skirt approached us. She was escorting the Spanish women to her aunt’s textile cooperative and they invited me to join.
At first glance, the village didn’t look as beautiful as people had described except for the amazing lake view. Just a short walk up the steep, cobblestone road past shops and restaurants, the quaint atmosphere everyone had talked about began to reveal itself. We passed a large wall mural of women weaving which read, Asociación de Mujeres en Colores Botánicos and turned down a dirt alley.

The short path led to a covered, open-air patio strewn with recently dyed thread and just picked cotton, including bowls of ixcaco, a natural brown colored cotton. Ropes tied to a chain-link fence provided tension for the backstrap looms.
Sitting on a plastic crate, I spent an hour learning how to weave. If I had had their number (502+5414-9597), I would have contacted them beforehand as they suggested so that they could have been more prepared to give a weaving class. I would also definitely spend a night there if I ever get the chance to return.
So little time (3 days), and so much to see and do at Lake Atitlán! Read about how to get to the lake area here.

Sunrise to sunset on Lago de Atitlán

2009-05-23T19:15:00.000-07:00

Legs dangling over a stone wall at the edge of Lago de Atitlán, Guatemala I’m watching the pink stripes framing San Pedro volcano slowly fade to salmon and to deep purple. Metallic waters offer the sole fisherman a calm paddle home. A giant Wilson umbrella is shading me from the light rain that started about two hours ago. While the entire sky is a soft gray, the only blue sliver of sky overhead stretches from the mouth of the perfect, cone-shaped San Pedro volcano. As night approaches, San Pedro and its neighbor, Volcan Atitlán, unzip and invite calm skies. A fire red valley between the two ensues.

I caught a 5:30 a.m. glimpse of the three volcanoes lining Atitlán Lake. By 9:30 a.m. San Pedro, Toliman, and Volcan Atitlán. had put on their afternoon hats and coats.

Getting to Atitlán Lake: Shuttles leave Antigua at 8:00 a.m., 12:30 p.m. and 4:00 p.m. (not hourly). The trip takes anywhere between 2 ½ to 4 hours, so it’s best to take the early shuttle especially during rainy season beginning in May. When you arrive in Panajachel, trips to other lakeside destination such as San Marcos will take another 40 minutes.

Managua's surreal snack shop

2009-05-21T07:52:00.000-07:00

After passing the tri-pod temperature check at Managua, Nicaragua's international airport with a mid-30s reading, I was allowed entrance to the terminal. Dark and virtually empty at 11:30 in the afternoon, I wandered around looking for something to catch my interest for the next twenty minutes.
There is was: encased in shiny steel and glass and lit by suspended, miniature lava lamps sat the most stereotypical collection of N. American snack foods you could imagine.Elegantly displayed, I felt as though I had been transported 100 years into the future and this time-capsule-like shop was selling coveted snacks of yesteryear to collectors.

For years, I used to miss certain foods from home, especially things like big carne asada burritos from one of San Diego's hole in the wall taco shops. For the most part though, it's a rare day when I get a craving for something unavailable. Not that much is "unavailable" any more ... for a price! On my flight back, if it's open, I'll check to see how much these junk food goodies cost.

Costa Rica combats harmful hygiene habits

2009-05-17T15:22:00.000-07:00

You cough and sneeze…but do you do it correctly? Taped to the wall separating the bus driver from the passengers, this poster is part of a recent campaign in Costa Rica to promote good hygiene during flu season. The message is also being supported by TV commercials and information booths around town passing out pamphlets to passer-bys. To date, there has been one death, eight confirmed cases and 120 suspected cases of the AH1N1 virus in the country.

Choosing a modern-nomadic lifestyle

2009-05-13T09:08:00.000-07:00

Believe it or not, living a life of perpetual travel is starting to hit the mainstream.

An interesting article in The Seattle Times yesterday about Americans becoming long-term tourists encouraged me to reflect on the nomadic leap I took over a year ago. Missing the sense of freedom and the living-in-the-now feeling you get from traveling, I was drawn back to what many would consider a rather precarious lifestyle. Though, who wouldn't agree that, within reason, life is precarious no matter how you live it? (Read the Seattle story here.)

So, if you are intrigued by the thought of diving off into the unknown, here are a few things to think about. If you have other ideas or thoughts, please comment:

Possessions – How would you feel owning little more than what you could carry? How much will you miss your high-thread count sheets? For me, it’s liberating. “Travel light, travel fast,” my dad always says. It’s true, and you are also less likely to want to purchase more than what you need. There are things I do miss: Wine woes

Preparation – Where will you go and what will you do? The transition will be smoother if you do your homework. Making it easy, there are lots of good online resources:

Transitions Abroad (excellent resource about work, study, life and volunteering abroad)
CIA Factbook (get the scoop on any country)
Women-on-the-Road (from tips on health and safety to finding a job)

The ups and the inevitable downs – What are the pros and cons of a nomadic lifestyle? It’s energizing to map out new environments, to meet new people and to soak up the sights, sounds and smells of the many stunning locations around the world. It’s also exhausting to regularly break routine, so you really have to pay attention to your body and know when it’s time to rest. It can also be lonely. You are away from friends and family, even though technology has softened these distances. (Read more.)

Whether or not you choose a modern-nomadic lifestyle, the life-altering lessons we take away from even short trips can be applied to our everyday lives. Focusing on the now, engaging in a process of self-discovery—by pushing yourself outside of your comfort zone—and developing curiosity can help you form your own Nomadic Narrative, whether it take place close to home or in distant lands.

Staying hip in Costa Rica

2009-05-08T19:23:00.000-07:00

Te moderniza. “It modernizes you,” José said.

Leaning back on the sink’s porcelain lip, my head heavy with product, the water caressed my forehead. My young hairstylist leaning forward in a bright pink polo with the collar turned up and peg leg, black cords asked the usual, “Is the temperature ok?”

When I first met José, his faded, baggy jeans fastened at the hip and his twenty-something face didn’t inspire a lot of confidence, yet, he convinced me to put layers in my hair even though that was right up there with never getting a perm again. Afterward, walking around the city, I noticed several women with flirty, bouncy layers. I felt stylish. I mentioned this to José as I reclined, and he smiled and said, “te moderniza.”

He started to rub my eyebrows. “Do you want to dye your eyebrows?” he asked. Nobody had ever suggested that I dye my eyebrows. In fact, it had never crossed my mind. In a drawn out, falling intonation I said, “nooooh.” Curious and quick to make sure I was not missing an opportunity, I asked, “Why, do they seem dark?”

As I felt a cooling sensation above my left brown, Jose said, “Yes.” Working firm bristles through each thick brow, he continued, “It’s going to look great. They will match your chocolate-brown hair.” I guess I was also going darker.

I kept my head firm against the sink, avoiding movement for fear the mixture might slide into my eyes. When it was all over, my eyebrows did take on more prominence, highlighting my eyes, my better feature.

“Te moderniza,” Jose said.

Read about hair dresser hell in Costa Rica here.