North Country Gardening

Wildflower Talk in Otsego Co.

2012-05-23T19:13:00.001-07:00

I will be talking about the importance and uses of native plants in the landscape at the Otsego County Conservation District in Gaylord on Thursday, May 24, 6:00 p.m.

I will be holding the talk in their greenhouse where they grow native plants and offer them to the public. They also have a woodland garden with trails you can walk and view beautiful wildflowers.

Tomato Update

2012-05-23T15:37:00.002-07:00

Well, it’s been about two weeks since I took my Mighty Mato transplants out of a box and set them out in my greenhouse. These are grafted tomatoes that apparently have some type of super doper root stock that grows lots of mater’s.

The plants got off to a shaky start but are now starting to show signs of life. I’m sure the heat and sun of late has helped a lot. A little “go-juice” (aka, Miracle Grow) mixed in with the water has probably helped as well—they’re greener and meaner looking now.

I’m happy with the looks of all my tomatoes in the greenhouse. This year I planted my North Country Gardening mainstays: Early Girl and Celebrity (from Burpees), but I also experimented with a new variety called Posiedon 43. The latter were started the earliest and are very stocky for this time of year. Like the Mighty Matos, these tomatoes were a freebie so I figured, “what do I have to lose?” Still I feel a little trepidation with this variety which takes 78 days to mature on an indeterminate vine.

Today, I transplanted two of the Posiedons in the rich soil in front of my greenhouse. It will be fun to see how they’ll do. This garden plot is filled to the hilt with rich compost and manure and protected from the wind. Posiedon is a pink tomato with low acid levels.

I donated a few Celebrity and Early Girls to Austin, the Ameri-Corp coordinator at the Sault Middle School. Austin is going to plant them in the city’s community garden with students from the school. He said he’s going to plant tomorrow, since it’s the last day of school. Hopefully, we won’t get another frost, but if we do, he knows to cover the plants.

Have any good tomato tips? I’d love to hear how you get this all-American favorite to ripen here in the North Country.

Happy Gardening!

Birds in Our Backyards

2012-05-10T05:22:00.000-07:00

It seems like birding and gardening go together, kind of like eggs and bacon. Folks who like to garden usually like to watch the comings and goings of the birds. In fact, setting up bird houses in or near a garden is a good thing as nesting birds will eat bugs, like aphids, off your plants. I tacked up one on a cedar fence post and now I have tree swallows swerving and diving above my garden.

So it should come as no surprise that I post Connie Thompson’s engaging newsletter, Birds in Our Backyards, each and every month. This is a long running newsletter about birding in the E.U.P. Connie, who is now a book author has a way of relating her love for birds that makes you want to put up another bird feeder or grab your binoculars and head out to the field.

This month Connie logs the spring rush of birds to the area as well as the busy goings on of those birds that make the EUP their year round home.

Is the "Mighty 'Mato" Really Mighty?

2012-05-09T10:40:00.000-07:00

The other day I got an email promoting a new type of tomato called the “Mighty ‘Mato.” The Mighty ‘Mato is a tomato grafted on some super duper root stock. They didn’t mention what kind of root stock it is, but I assume it’s that of a fast growing tomato variety or maybe a poplar or fast growing weed or something :).

Anyway, I thought what the heck, I shot them an email back and said I would try one out and blog about it if they’ d send me some free samples. And by golly if a package didn’t arrive all the way from California. I love freebies.

Three six inch tomatoes (Big Beef, Brandywine, and Sweet Million) arrived as plugs in a greenhouse medium and packaged in a plastic holder. They didn’t look no worse for wear at the time. I planted them right away into six inch pots in my greenhouse. I used a greenhouse (nonsoil medium) in the pots.

I watered them right away, and now, after three or four days in a sunny spot in the greenhouse the leaves are a little yellow and the plants not looking very mighty… mighty sad, maybe.

Never one to give up on plants, I’ll give these little guys a chance. After all, they might be going through a period of climate shock. I’ll fertilizer them first thing in the morning with a little all-purpose fertilizer (15-15-15). After that, I’ll step back and see if they grow as vigorously as they claim to grow.

The instructions that came with them say that if using a pot to grow them in, use no less than a ten gallon pot--now that’s a big pot! A container tree in a ten gallon pot is about 8 ft. tall, just to give you an idea.

According to the company, the Mighty ‘Mato will grow more “maters” than one could possibly eat. We’ll see what happens. Just to be on the safe side, I’ll still be growing my short season tomato varieties, Celebrity and Early Girl, in a spot I have worked up in front of my greenhouse.

If you’re interested in trying out a Might ‘Mato, point your browser at www.mightmato.com. Mention I sent you, maybe they’ll send you some freebies!

Happy gardening!

Neil

Planting Your First Vegetable Garden

2012-05-07T06:40:00.001-07:00

You're aware of the health benefits of eating fresh vegetables, you have the space for a small garden, but just don't know where to start? Look no further. Here's all you need to know to put fresh, crisp vegetables on your dinner table.

First, think small. Don't bite off more than you can chew, or hoe. It's like starting out an exercise program by running five miles the first day. You get tired, sore and you quit. Likewise, if you plant a huge garden the first year, you'll curse, cuss and turn your sore back on gardening for good. So, if you're new to gardening, start off with a garden no larger than 8' X 10.' You can always expand later if you can't get enough of those fresh, crispy vegetables.

Choose a location that receives as much sun as possible throughout the day. Northern gardeners should insist on full sun. Now you're ready to work up the soil. You can rent a rear tine tiller or borrow one from a friend or neighbor for this task. Work the soil up sod and all--in other words don't remove the sod. Removing the sod creates a recess in the soil, resulting in poor drainage.

Next, examine the soil. Is it predominantly clay, sand or a sandy loam? The latter is the best. You can distinguish a sandy loam from the other two by giving it the squeeze test. If you can take a handful of dirt and squeeze it in a ball then watch it crumble when you let go, you've got a sandy loam soil type. If you're not sure, take a sample down to your local extension office. While you're there ask them about having your soil tested for proper pH levels and major nutrients like nitrogen, potassium and potash.

If you're stuck with a predominantly sandy or clay soil it will be worth bringing in some topsoil to get you off on the right foot. If you can't afford topsoil, you can amend the soil with compost. Compost includes any biodegradable material which can be broken down into a fine, dark humus. Well rotted livestock manure is the best choice for getting a clay or sandy soil into shape. Whatever you use for compost apply it often, like once in the spring and once in the fall. It will take a few seasons to improve a poor soil type.
Another thing you can do is use topsoil to make a raised bed. Landscape timbers or treated 2 X 12's work best for this. You can stack these about five high. Besides enclosing your garden and making a good growing medium, the raised bed will make it easy to plant and weed your garden, particularly if you've got back trouble or have difficulty bending over.

Hey, I think we're ready to plant! Here's the fun part. You can purchase seeds from the store or order them through the many catalogs on the market (see below). Whatever you do, buy quality seeds. I hate to see people spend hours preparing a garden and then go out and purchase 10/$1.00 seeds. It would be like buying a new car and replacing the engine oil with a cheap brand of oil. Look for brand name seeds just like you would anything else. What we're trying to do is maximize our chances of success at this endeavor, not pinch pennies.

In a small garden you may want to avoid some of the space hogs, like corn, squash and pumpkin. However, there are bush type varieties of pumpkin, such as Hybrid Spirit Bush and Autumn Gold that don't take up much room. Also, summer squashes take up less room then do the winter squash. If you do plant corn, remember to grow this one along the north side of your garden so it doesn't shade the rest of your crops.

Easy to grow crops include onions, peas, beets, rutabaga and zucchini squash. These can also be planted early.Tomatoes and peppers need to be started from seed indoors about 8 weeks prior to planting time or purchased as transplants. Be sure to space things in your small garden according to the instructions on the packets. And make sure you plant your tender crops (tomatoes, squash, beans and watermelon) after all danger of frost has passed. Ask the old timers in the area when this date is. One common mistake people make, especially in the northern climates, is to plant everything when the weather turns nice only to succumb to a frost a week or two later, thus wiping out all their hard work.

Plant by the expected last frost dates, not the weather.

Unfortunately, critters (and children) may take a shine to your new garden. Rabbits, geese and deer can be a problem. For the small garden, a wire mesh surround works well. This will discourage most critters and some people. I've seen people take chicken wire and staple it to the top of their landscaping timbers on a raised bed to keep out geese and the like.

Vandals can also attack gardens, especially in conspicuous areas of a city, such as in a community garden. Since things like watermelon and squash are the vandal's favorite, some folks plant heirlooms that don't look like common vegetables. You can also cover ready to ripen fruit with straw to conceal the vegetable. Another method in a community garden is to display your name boldly near your garden plot. A conscientious person may think twice before robbing your garden!

Watch for insect infestation. If things are properly spaced in your small garden, insects shouldn't be a big problem. If you do see evidence of chewing on plants, especially things like cabbage, don't wait to fight back. Identify the insect causing the damage and choose an insecticide that will control that specific insect or Soap-Shield. Proper spacing, weeding and fertilizing is a good way to prevent disease and insect infestation without having to resort to harmful insecticides.

Speaking of fertilizer, you can use a granular or water soluble fertilizer to feed your hungry plants. A 15-15-15 or 20-20-20 fertilizer is a good all purpose fertilizer which will provide equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium and some of the minor nutrients that plants need. Apply granular fertilizers a few days before you plant, working it into the top six inches of topsoil. You can side dress after the plants come up and at two or three week intervals by using a water soluble fertilizer such as that sold by the Miracle Grow or Shultz companies.

Soon, it will be time to harvest your garden fare. To get the full health benefits of your vegies, harvest when ripe and don't over cook your vegetables. More importantly, enjoy the experience of eating fresh, crisp vegetables you grew yourself!

Happy gardening!

Neil

Does Hardiness Zone Matter? You Betcha!

2012-05-04T06:47:00.001-07:00

Is the Plant You’re Buying Hardy for the Area?

This spring as you get excited about buying and planting trees, shrubs and perennials, keep in mind that not all plants sold in some of the stores are hardy for the area.

It is important to know what zone you’re in and match that zone to the tag on the plant. If there is no hardiness tag on the plant, ask the garden center operator what zone the plant is intended for. If they don’t know, this should send a red flag up that the plant might not be suitable for the region you’re living in.

Some people might argue that it doesn’t hurt to get, say a zone 5 plant for a zone 4 region. They may even say that their zone 5 plant survived a winter or two. But did it really thrive? Or did it live a couple of seasons and quietly “disappear,” that is, didn’t come back after the snow melted. A zone 4 plant, especially one that can trace its roots back to a native cultivar (for example varieties of columbine or ninebark), is going to not only survive, but thrive in a zone 4 region, if given proper care.

A good example of a plant I’ve seen that doesn’t do so well in our zone 4 region is boxwood. Some big box stores stock lots of Zone 5 boxwood. Some folks think that since they’re selling them they must be hardy. In my observations, this plant will survive in a zone 4 region, but it doesn’t thrive and will never resemble a big bushy boxwood you might see in an actual zone 5 region.

To get the best bang for your buck purchase hardy stock from a garden center you can trust. Mom and pop garden centers hold an edge over the big box stores in that most know from experience what plants will do well in their zone. They don’t view plants as “widgets,” an item to be quickly scanned and tossed into a grocery cart. You may pay slightly more for this quality, just like you spend a little more for your favorite coffee or clothing item, but it will be worth it.

Buying plants is an investment in your property, make a good investment that will pay off for years to come.

Happy Gardening!

Neil

When to Plant

2012-05-01T05:21:00.000-07:00

Each day I walk out to my garden out back and stare at it for a minute. It's kind of a crazy ritual, I know, but I can't help myself. I suppose it's like that golfer who glances over at the golf course while there is still snow on it. I'm patiently waiting for the weather to get a little nicer before I plant anything.

The first thing I'll probably put in is peas. This is the earliest crop you can plant. Actually, this can be done now, though I'll probably wait until the end of the week just to be safe.

Around the first week of May (if the weather is reasonably nice) we can plant beets, rutabaga, carrots, broccoli, and even cabbage (from seed or transplants).

About mid-May I'll plant my potatoes. If the weather man predicts a frost, I can cover the sprouting leaves with soil or cover them with plastic. Mid-May is not too late to plant any of the above mentioned crops.

No later than June 1st (unless the weather is really crummy) I want to get my sweet corn, pumpkin, watermelon and squash in. Since these crops need a relatively long growing season, we best get them started early. Pumpkin, squash, and watermelon I usually start from seed in peat pots in a window or in my greenhouse a couple weeks prior and plant, pot and all, in my garden. I'll cover them from frost, if need be. This will give them the jump they need to ripen before frost threatens on the other end.

I also try to get my tomatoes transplants in around the 1st of June. No need to get them in too early, they don't grow at all in weather below about 55 degrees.

Plant cucumbers and beans when the weather is warm and it is predicted to stay that way several days (yes, I know that may be unlikely). The point is, beans and cukes need warm weather to sprout and are very sensitive to frost.

Planting at the right time is critical. Plant things like tomatoes too early and you'll be covering for frost. Plant things like corn, squash and watermelon too late and risk it not ripening in time before the next killing frost.

Happy gardening,

Neil

Got a Garden Question?

2012-04-25T19:04:00.000-07:00

If you have any questions on anything related to gardening, especially bug and disease problems, house plant problems, or want me to (try) to identify a plant, post it in the comments section of my blog. I'll do my best to answer your questions. Besides being kind of a gardening nut, I've worked in a commercial greenhouse and have a certificate in Integrated Pest Management from the Michigan Department of Agriculture, not to mention some other credentials, which I won't bore you with. If you can send a picture of an insect, disease symptoms, or plant, all the better. Hope to hear from you soon!

Neil

Greenhouse (miniature) Garden

2012-04-22T06:22:00.000-07:00

I’ve been busy this past weekend building a garden box in my greenhouse. The box is 8’ X 3’ and 10 inches deep, and is positioned in the southeast corner of my greenhouse. I filled it with a 50-50 mix of compost and recycled (non-soil) potting mix.

Obviously, it’s not going to produce a ton of produce, but I do hope to have some fresh vegetables a little ahead of when I normally would in my garden.

So far, I transplanted four broccoli plants and some onion sets in the cool, moist and rich growing medium. I’m going to add carrots, beets and lettuce here in a couple of days. I have a propane heater in my greenhouse, which I’ll turn on at night until it gets a little warmer.

Can't wait for fresh vegies!

Happy gardening!

Neil

North Country Gardening with the Evening News

2012-04-22T06:00:00.000-07:00

North Country Gardening blog meet sooeveningnews.com!

That's right.

I’m happy to announce that my gardening blog will now be linked in to the digital edition of the Evening News. I’m hoping this will become a meeting place for all types of gardeners in the Eastern Upper Peninsula and beyond.

This will be a place where people can share what they’re doing around the area, like telling us about the type of apple tree you planted, the wisteria that won’t flower, or the big tomato you want to brag about. In return, you’ll hear back from me and other gardeners in a constructive way so we can all be successful gardeners. I’ll continue to do what I’ve done with this blog over the last few years and share what I find new and/or interesting to northern gardeners.

And to encourage participation, I’m making a special offer: provide a garden related comment or question on my blog (from April 23 through May 5), and you’ll enter a drawing to receive a free copy of one of my garden books (of your choosing), North Country Gardening: Simple Secrets to Successful Northern Gardening, or North Country Gardening with Wildflowers: How to Grow and Enjoy Native Plants in the Great Lakes Region. Heck, I’ll even throw in my little tips booklet Store to Garden 101 Ways to Make the Most of Garden Store Purchases! The winner will be announced on this blog.

Happy gardening!

Neil

Good Picks for the North

2012-04-19T05:43:00.000-07:00

Here in the north country it’s pretty easy to grow certain crops in our gardens; in fact, some actually thrive in our cool, wet climate. Stuff like red beets, rutabaga (think pasty!), broccoli, and even spuds do just fine, thank you, here in the North.

Other crops? Well, let’s just say that after a few summers in our zone 4 region they’re ready to go back to the Southwest United States where they originated. I’m talking about corn, tomatoes, squash, and pumpkin.

Fortunately, plant breeders are spread out across the country and by golly, would like to see some of these crops grow in our short season zone. So over time they’ve come up with some good short season vegetable crops to please us folks who live in an area where “winter spends its summer.”

I’ve gravitated to these short season varieties like a slug to a cabbage leaf (excuse my choice of simile!). Over the years these varieties have reliably produced an abundance of produce for fresh eating and the freezer-- that is, if I take good care to plant them at the right time in the right conditions. I’ll explain some “season extending” options in a future post.

And by the way, if you have some varieties that have done well up here for you over the years, I’d love to hear about them.

So with no further ado, here are some varieties that have a fighting chance of producing ripe fruit and luscious ears here in the north country.

* Northern Xtra Sweet Yellow sweet corn (67 days)

* Early Xtra Sweet Yellow sweet corn (68 days)

Celebrity tomato (70 days)

Bush Early Girl tomato (54 days)

(And most varieties of cherry tomatoes under 65 days)

New Ace Hybrid (sweet) pepper (60 days)

Spirit Hybrid pumpkin (compact variety, 100 days)

Canesi Hybrid butternut squash (80-85 days)

New Queen Hybrid watermelon (80 days)

Alaska Hybrid Muskmelon (70 days)

* The last time I checked these varieties of sweet corn were available from Pickford feed.

Other sources for the above: Vermont Bean Co. , Jung Seeds & Plants, HPS.

As always, I welcome your comments. The compost lot off east Spruce street is open in the Soo for some good, black compost for your garden (Wed., 7-7, Sat. 9-1).

Happy gardening!

Neil

Spring Planting Schedule

2012-04-15T06:19:00.000-07:00

If you’re confused about when to plant your garden this spring, you’re not alone. It sure hasn’t been a typical spring here in the Eastern Upper Peninsula. Still, we must be careful not to jump the gun too soon and plant things that won’t survive another frost, or snow storm, for that matter.

With that said, there are a few things we can get in the ground right now. Now is a good time to plant trees and shrubs, especially the bare root kind. Container plants can be planted later in the spring and even in the fall.

As for vegetables, we can go ahead and plant any type of peas and certainly onion sets. It might be a little too early to plant things like red beets and broccoli, though these crops can take a light frost. Why chance it? These veggies don’t take long to mature anyway.

Now is also a good time to plant things like strawberries, grapes and raspberries. These fruits, by the way, are reliable producers, unlike some tree fruits, which seem to be a little hit and miss in this area. Speaking of fruits trees, my sister-in-law, who does real well with roses, apples and flowers in her secluded backyard off of Spruce Street in the Soo, recently bought a peach tree and is going to give it a try. If she gets a peach, it will be the first peach I’ve heard of in this area!

As for all other crops, I think most long time gardeners in the area know to go by the calendar and not the fickle weather when it comes to setting out tender flowers or vegetable transplants, such as tomatoes. I’ll talk a little more about when to plant the rest of your garden in future posts.

The nice thing about this nice spring, it gives us a little extra time to prepare our gardens for the season. One of the best ways to prepare it is to add compost. The best place to get compost in this area is at the city’s compost lot off of Spruce Street in the Soo. It’s good stuff, though it is best to screen out the stones and other debris when you get it home.The compost lot is open on Wednesdays and Saturdays.

I’ll provide details on making a simple soil screen in a future post.

Happy Gardening!

Neil

Store to Garden Tip #9: Container Trees

2012-04-11T12:07:00.001-07:00

Container trees can be purchased and transplanted any time of the year, although spring and fall is best. Match the hardiness zone of your area to the hardiness zone indicated (hopefully) on the plant tag. Take my word for it, in most cases, a plant with a hardiness rating above your zone won’t make it past a couple of years in a lower zone, and by that time your one- year “money back guarantee” will have expired.

Also, be aware that the larger the tree the better the chance it won’t survive, so stay away from trees in containers that are over ten feet tall, unless it comes direct from a nursery or garden center and a professional landscaper is going to install it. Also, avoid purchasing trees (or any other plants) that have sat in a hot parking lot for a long time (over a couple of weeks). The quality of the plant depends on how well it is cared for from the time it is planted to the time it is sold.

Is New Garden Insecticide Safe to Use?

2012-03-27T04:46:00.000-07:00

For over a decade now commercial pesticide applicators have had imidacloprid, a systemic pesticide, available to them to treat borers in trees and other plants. Imidacloprid is the same ingredient used to control the emerald ash borer in ash trees.

Starting this year, Bayer Advanced Fruit, Citrus & Vegetable Insect Control will be available to home gardeners and fruit tree growers. It contains 0.235% imidacloprid and is applied to the soil only.

This is good news for people who want to save their trees from borers, such as the flat-headed appletree borer, a pesky insect that is hard to control by any other means.

However, it is not so good news for the bees, as it is a known killer of our pollinators, according to Oregon State University’s National Pesticide Information Center.

Just how much of a threat it is for bees is still being studied. However, it doesn’t appear that much of the chemical gets into the reproductive parts of the flower, which is a good thing for the bees.

To be on the safe side, apply this insecticide after the plant has flowered. When applied to the soil, it travels up through the roots into all parts of the flowers, including stems, leaves, branches and bark.

I can’t see using this product in the garden, especially with all the good organic pest controls available to control critters on our vegetable plants. I suggest it only be used on those plants (trees and shrubs) you absolutely must save; even then I would only use it as a last resort.

If you do decide to use it, be sure to follow the directions on the label or have a professional apply it for you.

For more information on this product and FAQs, see Iowa State’s Horticulture & Home Pest News.

2012-03-24T09:07:00.000-07:00

Corn is king! Everyone loves sweet corn, eh? Here's an article that will all but guarantee you have success growing luscious sweet corn this summer. Just don't let this weather fool you, though. A few weeks of warm weather is often followed by some really cool, wet weather. I usually plant by the date, not the weather. For zone 4 gardeners, that's about June 1 for corn, zone 5 and 6, about mid-May. Good luck. Corn is King

2012-03-15T09:33:00.000-07:00

With a March like this it's no wonder I'm thinking about starting my garden seeds (indoors). Learn everything you need to know about starting things like tomatoes and peppers indoors, plus several tips for short season gardeners: http://www.neilmoran.com/seedstarting.html

Heirlooms for Northern Gardeners?

2012-02-27T06:36:00.000-08:00

Heirloom vegetables are popular these days with home gardeners. Heirlooms are simply old varieties that have gone out of commercial production. A lot of these were left behind as plant breeders sought to breed new varieties that sacrificed taste for a uniform color and the ability to ship long distances.

I’m all for heirlooms. A lot of these varieties have a story that goes with them, making them fodder for conversation. The plants are open-pollinated, meaning you can plant the seed from the mature plants the following year. You can’t do this with hybrids and genetically modified seed.

One problem I see with heirlooms for us northern gardeners is finding varieties suited for our short growing season. One thing the plant breeders have done for the home gardener is breed some varieties for our short growing season. A good example is the Hybrid Extra Early Sweet Corn I plant each year in my northern garden. To my knowledge, there isn’t a comparable heirloom for short season zones.

So what is a northern gardener to do? Well, there’s nothing wrong with hybrids, per se. People have been cross-breeding plants for centuries; how else do you think we got corn from a grass? Genetically modified seed is a different story (more on GM seeds in a future blog).

What we need to do as northern gardeners if we want to grow interesting, tasty heirlooms is to choose the heirloom varieties we want to grow carefully. Many of these varieties require a long growing season, mostly because they were originally grown in the southern parts of the country. For instance, Waltham Butternut, an AAS prize winner from 1970, is probably a tasty squash, but requires 83-100 days to maturity. If you do plan on growing this one in your northern garden, be sure to employ some of my season extending ideas detailed in my book, North Country Gardening: Simple Secrets to Successful Northern Gardening.

Take a good look at the heirloom varieties offered in catalogs, such as that of the Seed Savers Exchange (www.seedsavers.org). Lettuces, kale, and some of the root crops featured in these heirloom catalogs don’t require a long growing season, so will do just fine in our growing zone (3-5). If you look real carefully, you may find other varieties that don’t take long to mature, like the Early Jersey Wakefield cabbage, a variety first grown by Francis Brill in New Jersey, in 1840. At 60-75 days, it’s the earliest variety offered by Seed Savers Exchange, and should do well, especially when started from transplants and set out early while the weather is still cool.

In conclusion, know that there is a reason for hybridizing plants, reasons that aren’t all bad, especially for us northerners who need a little help from the plant breeders who have developed short season varieties. In the mean time, be on the lookout for heirloom varieties that require less than 70 days to maturity, or are a root crop that can grow into the fall.

Reminder: it’s time to get ordering those seeds! Beat the rush and the possibility of seed shortages by ordering early. Also, if you plan on starting seeds indoors, it’s time to get ordering seeds and setting up artificial lighting.

FYI: Jung’s offers free shipping for orders over $75.

Happy gardening!

Natural Shoreline Landscapes

2012-02-12T08:30:00.000-08:00

I like to write on a variety of topics, but lately, an article particularly piqued my interest. The topic is natural shoreline landscapes. These are actually natural break walls that can be installed along the waterfront of homes or cottages situated on inland lakes or streams. The landscapes are better for the fishes and other aquatic organisms and include a healthy planting of native plants. If you're a homeowner interested in installing one or a contractor interested in installing them for customers, read my article in Country Lines. Natural Shoreline Landscapes

Pumpkins for Short Seasons

2012-02-05T06:05:00.000-08:00

The other day someone asked me what pumpkin would be best to plant in her northern garden. I’ve had pretty good luck with Bush Spirit Hybrid pumpkin over the past several years. While not actually recommended for our climate, it has done pretty well. The short vines set fruit fairly early and produce a modest size pumpkin that can be used for Jack-o-Lanterns or for making pies.

There’s a new one (well, new to me) on the market called Montana Jack, specifically designated for northern climates. It has a “round shape” for Jack-o-Lanterns but is also good for pie production. However, like Hybrid Spirit Bush, it still requires 95 days to maturity, which is pushing it in this country. So here’s what you should do regardless of which variety you choose to plant:

Start the seed inside in a peat pot in early May.
Grow to just a few inches (2-3 leaves).
Prepare a spot for the pumpkin by digging a hole 2 ft. wide and 18” deep.
Load up the hole with well rotted livestock manure or compost.
Mound up the soil so it drains well.
Plant the pumpkin seedling peat pot and all.
If possible, use some type of heat trapping device in the early going. A clear plastic jug or mini tent made out of clear poly will work. Make sure to allow for adequate ventilation so you don’t burn the young seedling.
Keep it watered and fed with an organic or inorganic fertilizer. Follow instructions for feeding carefully (don’t over feed with nitrogen).
Watch ‘er grow!

Source for the above seed: Hybrid Spirit Bush: Gurney’s Seed & Nursery; Mountain Jack: Irish Eyes Garden Seeds.

Know Your Hardiness Zone

2012-01-27T07:50:00.000-08:00

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

Finally, the long awaited hardiness zone map is out. This is updated from the last one issued in the 90's. Find out what zone you garden in, then purchase perennials, trees, and shrubs accordingly. Or, see if the zone listed appears accurate from your experience gardening and living in that region. They seemed to have gotten right for the Upper Peninsula of Michigan where I live.

Some New and Notable Vegies for 2012

2012-01-21T05:57:00.000-08:00

I haven’t let the drop in temps or the heavy snowfall diminish my excitement for the new vegetable offerings in the 2012 catalogs. In fact, the blanket of snow is good news for the perennials I still have sitting in pots by the shed.

So with hot beverage in one hand, pen in the other, I started perusing some of the catalogs piling up on the table: Jung’s, Johnny’s, Pine Tree, HPS, etc.

New this year is Summer Dance Hybrid Cucumber (70 day), one of three long, narrow cukes making a debut this year. The other two is a 60 day one called Southern Delight Hybrid and a 40 day-er, burpless variety, called Summer Top Hybrid. Summer Dance grows to 12 in., is about an inch wide, and has a skin so tender it doesn’t need peeling prior to eating. It is being offered by the J.W. Jung Seed Co.

I stumbled across a northern variety of pumpkin while checking out a catalog that is new to me: Irish Eyes Garden Seeds. The pumpkin variety is called Montana Jack and is touted for being a good variety for northern gardeners. It’s an 8-15 pound Jack-o-Lantern type that requires 95 days to maturity. Best bet: start inside in a peat pot a couple weeks before the last frost date. Place out peat pot and all in well-drained, well amended soil. Then baby the heck out of it until she ripens.

New Ace pepper isn’t exactly new on the market, but it’s new to me. A northern gardener who I just happen to judge vegetables with at a local fair, told me this is the one you want for, reliable, heavy yields here in the north. Start this one in a greenhouse or grow house. One company that offers New Ace is HPS, a company that, incidentally sells larger quantities of seeds at a price you can live with.

I hate to admit it, but I had given up on growing butter nut squash in this short season zone. Several attempts left me with a lot of under ripe butternuts. Then I came upon Canesi Hybrid butternut squash, from Jung’s. This bad boy will plump up in August like a fully-cooked ballpark frank. This variety has excellent flavor. However, it didn’t keep long in my cool crawl space. Perhaps it was too cold and damp for it.

For the enthusiastic gardeners I’ve met living in high rises, public housing, and other dwellings with limited space, there’s a new container tomato in town that should do well for these folks. Terenzo Hybrid, a 2011 All-American Selections winner is a nice compact variety suitable for hanging baskets and containers. Juicy, red cherry fruits average 1-1 ¼ in. across and weigh just under an ounce. They say it’s “trailing but tidy,” a plus for you neat nics. It’s a determinate variety that features “near perfect yields all summer long.” It’s being offered by Burpee’s, and some other seed companies.

Well, that’s it. Just a few newbie’s to whet your whistle. If you haven’t done so already, slow down a minute and peruse the 2012 seed catalogs.

Happy Gardening.

Tips for Making Your 2012 Garden Resolutions

2012-01-08T08:44:00.000-08:00

Everyone has resolutions for the new year. As gardeners we may want to list a few goals for our 2012 gardening and landscaping. This can help make a big job a little more manageable, both in terms of the work that needs to be performed and money that needs to be budgeted. So if you haven't all ready, sit down with your favorite garden books and catalogs, a pen and a calculator and answer these questions:

What do I want to achieve for my flower bed, vegetable garden, lawn, etc?
What equipment or supplies will I need to do the job?
What will it cost?
Where will I get said equipment and supplies?
Can I beg, borrow, or buy cheaply any of these things?
Can I elicit the help of others either for free or at a cost to get the job done?
How much time will each task take?
Have I built in enough time to enjoy the summer as well? There is no sense planting roses if you don't have time to smell them!

I hope this helps and I wish you the best for the upcoming gardening season!

Birds in Our Backyards

2012-01-08T08:32:00.000-08:00

Winter is a great time to be a bird watcher in this area. Watch for snow birds, owls, and eagles. Get the whole scoop when you read January's issue of Connie Thompson's Birds in our Backyard. You can also visit my website for any back issues of her newsletter.

Free ebook: Are you doing more harm than good with your marketing efforts?

2011-12-31T08:44:00.000-08:00

Folks in the green industry seem to be some of the best people to do business with, especially those green businesses that specialize in plants only (not a big box, big profit store). The folks at garden centers and the like will usually help you make the appropriate selection for your garden, and offer you honest advice, including what not to buy for your situation. Unfortunately, not all marketers are so kind. In fact, a "shrewd business man" is usually held in high regard.

Reputable writer and marketing consultant, Marcia Yutkin would argue otherwise. In the ebook you can link to at the bottom, Marcia plants the seed for a sustainable business model that will keep customers happy, is better on the environment, and by golly, will make you more money in the long run. These tips apply to most anyone in the green industry, especially those marketing their products to consumers.

The gist of the article is that we'll do better in the long run financially, and be able to sleep at night, if we market to our customers with honesty and integrity. She gives several examples of shoddy marketing that everyone should be able to relate to. In other words, grow your business the right way and you shall be rewarded. Enjoy the free ebook and Happy New Year!
http://www.1automationwiz.com/app/?af=1342067&u=www.yudkin.com/noharm.htm

Month of the Full Cold Moon

2011-12-09T10:22:00.000-08:00

A day without sunshine is like, you know, night.” –Steve Martin

December is the month of the Full Cold Moon or the Long Nights Moon, as it is known by some Native Americans. The moon will be full tomorrow, but this morning it looked like a squashed orange, as it sank over the western horizon.

The Christmas lights and full moon will give us a little respite from the long, dark evenings that begin before most folks get home from work and last until after the car leaves again the next day.

The winter solstice on the 22^nd of December will drive home the fact that we’re in the dead of winter, though as of this date there is very little snow here in the Upper Peninsula. It is cold, though, with temps in the teens across the U.P.

The garden is truly devoid of any color now, except the pale green of the Brussels sprouts that stand frozen in the un-tilled portion of my garden. The only color I see when I go out to the garden is the bright red berries on this high bush cranberry shrub that has grown as tall as my tool shed.

On December 23, the days will start getting longer! I hope you brighten up this dark, chilly month with lots of Christmas lights and smiling faces!