NOT QUITE - TOUCHING THE VOID

Scottish Winter Conditions, Ben Nevis - The Ledge Route & No4 Gully - 15th March 2015.

2015-03-15T21:30:00.000-07:00

How early do you have to get up to get to the Ben for this kind of weather?
0315, that's how early, but it was well worth it. Stunning alpine like conditions all day. The North Face car park was very busy, as was the Ben. We had thought about No 2 Gully, or even Reaburns Easy Route, but then decided The Ledge Route may not keep it's alpine character as long as the gullies would hold their snow, so The Ledge it was.
Always a brilliant at that grade (II) with stunning views across the North Face of Ben Nevis. It was still a bit chilly in the wind at the top, but we thought, well we're here now, we may aswell visit the summit. We passed a handy snow bollard at the top of No 4 Gully on the way up which we reckoned could be useful later. As it was, on our return, we saw a guide and her client abseiling off it, so we promptly followed.
The gully seemed to get steeper lower down after the turn and a little down climbing was needed. After that it was an atmospheric walk past the well hidden (by snow) lochans and down to the CIC Hut.
The coire was echoing with various calls from different teams climbing almost everywhere (except the major gullies which had massive cornices).

No 5 Gully.

Ian and Willy on the first ramp.

Willy high up on The Ledge Route.

Snow arete up to Carn Dearg.

Heading up to the summit of the Ben.

The Ledge Route as seen from the summit.

Spot the climbers in Tower Gap.

Climber about to top out.

Our trusty snow bollard.

Off the edge of No 4 Gully.

A very easy abseil really.

Me and Willy below the huge (thankfully very frozen) cornices in No 4 Gully.

Descending Coire na Ciste.

The Douglas Boulder and lower section of Tower Ridge.

Scottish Winter Conditions - The Runnel, Coire an t-Sneachda - 8th March 2015.

2015-03-08T21:00:00.000-07:00

Most of the main gully lines seem intact; The top of Jacobs Ladder has a very small rock section (seen from above), Aladdin's Mirror and Couloir looked ok, the Tridents looked ok (we did The Runnel, the last chimney section is ok but was breaking up a bit on the right side). Crotched looked ok and we saw a team head into Spiral but couldn't see it's condition. Couldn't see condition of things further right? We shared the route with Rob and Sam and had a sociable day with a great mix of weather conditions to give the full Scottish winter experience!

Brown Cove Crags - Right Parallel Gully & Red Tarn Cove - Number 2 Gully, 15th February 2015.

2015-02-15T17:02:00.000-08:00

An early start from Edinburgh and we had Brown Cove Crags to ourselves (one tent at the bottom of the cove- never saw the occupants). We took some gear and 30m ropes in case they were needed, but the rope got take for a walk!
We went up Right Parallel Gully, which is complete and straightforward. Left Parallel, Central and Broad Gullies are complete, except Broad is getting scrappy and thin about two thirds down. (we descended it on our return).

Right Parallel Gully.

Looking down Right Parallel Gully.

Jimmy, myself, Willy and Ian ( the shadow!), heading over to Helvellyn, around Brown Cove, from Brown Cove Crags.

Semi frozen Red Tarn and Striding Edge.

We descended to the "notch" on Striding Edge from Helvellyn and then down a little grade 1 slope/gully to Red Tarn and round to Number 2 Gully.

Again, this was straightforward, and the rope never saw the light of day!

A very enjoyable, faff free day out in stunning weather
with an early finish - result!

Scottish Winter Conditions - Skiing at Glenshee, 8th February 2015.

2015-02-08T21:00:00.000-08:00

Cracking days skiing at Glenshee. Pity not quite a full area and some queueing was needed, but nothing too bad.

Scottish Winter Conditions - Chockstone Gully & Great Gully - The Cobbler, 7th February 2015.

2015-02-07T20:00:00.000-08:00

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Lake District Winter Conditions - Brown Cove Crags, Central Gully - 1st February 2015.

2015-02-01T22:00:00.000-08:00

Myself, Ian, Jimmy and Willy, had a brilliant day at Brown Cove Crags. Very busy, with queues on some popular routes, but all very sociable.

Climbers waiting to get into Central Gully on Brown Cove Crags.

Broad Gully, with the alternative start that myself and Willy took (over into Central Gully) where the two lower climbers are stood. This was a little harder than Grade 2 I think!!!

Two climbers near the top of Broad Gully.

Plenty of ice if you wanted it.

Willy belaying the final, straightforward slopes of Central Gully.

Probably about midway up Central Gully.
On our way down back to the car by Thirlemere, we encountered the usual suspects in trainers and those hopeless little spikey things you can strap on to them (which seem to fall off). The Helvellyn path is fairly treacherous in places without decent/stiff boots and ideally crampons, especially in descent.

Scottish Winter Conditions - The Cobbler (Ben Arthur), Chockstone Gully, 18th January 2015.

2015-01-18T21:00:00.000-08:00

Wishful thinking, a complicated forecast and difficult snow conditions led us to decide to try for Chockstone Gully on the north side of the North Peak of The Cobbler. We had hoped it was north facing enough to be blasted by the wind, but when we finally got to see it from below, it wasn't looking too promising as it was getting cross loaded. However, i was an enjoyable wander up though the heavy snow. Even with teams in front, the strong winds were transporting snow around, quickly filling in a lot of the trail.

Atmospheric, stunning and very windy!

The south side of The Cobbler. Some teams turned back from some routes on this side due to dodgy snow conditions. Those heading for the buttresses, ploughed on!

The main buttress of The North [Peak, split by Great Gully. Chockstone Gully is around to the right and a little lower down, not really visible in this picture.

Jimmy and Ian taking a break.
After gearing up and debating the conditions and whether to even bother looking at the gully, we decided it just wasn't worth it. So we had a wander through the boulders in the hope of finding some safer, broken ground to venture up on. However the snow was suspect in a lot of places higher up, regardless of the aspect, so we called it a day and had some lunch!

Willy and myself sheltering from the wind.

A very quick. crude test, showed how loose some of the snow was.

Willy and jon posing.

The afternoon became a sociable walk back in the winter sun.

Back to the car and a beer, sorry shandy now, in the pub!

Scottish Winter Conditions - Twin Ribs, Coire an t-Sneachda, 4th January 2015.

2015-01-04T21:00:00.000-08:00

Myself, Jon and Willy had a great day on Twin Ribs with me making it much harder than I had planned with some mixed moves that were well over our level! Luckily it was well protected, and after some grunting and swearing we all got over the hard bit!
Bad weather coming in for next weekend which should bring some badly needed snow. Jacobs Ladder was ber at the top, but most of the Tridents looked thin but complete. Fiacaill Couloir was snow free at the chockstone.

Spindrift in the corrie.

Moving onto easier ground on Twin Ribs.

Willy and Jon happy to be on easier ground.

Easier ground up to the notch in the Fiacaill Ridge.

Climbers near the top of the Fiacaill Couloir.

Weissmies, Saas Fee. 22nd August 2014.

2014-11-10T13:26:00.001-08:00

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Hutchison Memorial Hut - 8th and 9th November 2014.

2014-11-09T22:00:00.000-08:00

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Allalinhorn, Saas Fee - 20th August 2014

2014-09-01T12:35:00.000-07:00

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Mittaghorn Via Ferrata - Saas Fee, 17th August 2014

2014-09-01T12:27:00.000-07:00

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Great Gable, 20th July 2014.

2014-07-23T15:43:00.001-07:00

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Aonach Eagach, Glencoe - 29th June 2014.

2014-06-29T20:30:00.000-07:00

At last, good weather in Scotland and a chance to revisit the Aonach Eagach. This would include Ruth's 5th munro, Meall Dearg, and 4th Munro, Sgorr nam Fiannaidh (left) to do, and Lorna's first real return to scrambling.

Looking down Glencoe.

Ben Nevis, almost free of snow .

The first down climb, which is easier than it looks, or how it's described in some books.

Looking back up at the down climb.

It's probably easier to slip on the slabby bits covered in loose stuff.

The team up into to sun.

Cracking view of the ridge to come.

One of the many pinnacles to negotiate.

And another.

More ridge to come.

Even more ridge!

Looking back over the route.

The last of the snow hanging on in the gullies and corries.

Sgorr nam Fiannaidh. Only three more Munro's to go now for Ruth.

Some of the Aonach Eagach as seen from Glencoe.

Glenoce, looking East.

Wild camp - Ore Gap, Lake District, 21st June 2014.

2014-06-22T20:00:00.000-07:00

Heading into the Langstrath valley from Stonethwaite, on a very warm Saturday afternoon.
Lots of folks out and about especially at the various rock pools on the way.

The zig - zags at Stake Beck, near the end of the Langstrath valley. Well made path great to walk up and great for the mountain bikers that were coming down it.

Once we'd got to the top of the zig - zags, and Stake Pass, we got the first view of The Great Slab and Bowfell, from a different angle for a change.

After passing the descent for Langdale, we made our way along to Angle Tarn.

Surprisingly., there were only two tents at the tarn, but we continued on up to Ore Gap.

Alpine style cairn just before Ore Gap where pitched the tent.

At dusk, I took Tess for an extra walk over Esk Pike
with views over Esk Hause and the Scafell's.

Looking over Grange over Sands (I think?) from Esk Hause.

Derwent Water and Keswick from Esk Pike.

Tess on Esk Pike at Dusk, with the route to Scafell behind on the skykline.

A glorious summer's morning at Ore Gap, with Bowfell behind.

A poop with a view!

Tess, cooling down in Angle Tarn on our way back down to Langstrath.

Spot the climbers on Eagle (Heron) Crag.

"Tilly's Barn", near Stonethwaite Farm campsite.

Wild camp - South of White Bridge , Cairngorms - 14th June 2014.

2014-06-16T13:45:00.002-07:00

The weather was a bit unpredictable for our original plan of heading up to somewhere near the Ben Alder Cottage bothy, so we tried a little further east in the Cairngorms. A nice walk in from the Linn of Dee car park brought us to the ruin just south of White Bridge. This was more of a social, ambling about weekend rather than a full on yomp.

Attempting to make chocolate custard using hot chocolate powder.

Ian and Ruth tucking into "spag bol".

Tess, relaxing in the porch of the tent, This was her first proper wild camping trip, and she seemed to enjoy it.

Ian at the bar.

We had a cracking fire going, especially as we burnt all the rubbish left by people who couldn't bothered to take it with them or even burn it themselves. Much like Ben Nevis a few weeks ago - WHY!

Although it wasn't actually that cold, having a fire is still the best!

The old place looks quite cozy even though there are no (working) windows or doors. Oh, and it's derelict so the roof might cave in anytime!

Tess taking it easy.

Ben Vane, from Glen Finglass - 8th June 2014.

2014-06-08T11:19:00.000-07:00

A quick (ish) walk up to Ben Vane from Glen Finglass.
Although it looks like a nice dry day, the heavens did open mid afternoon and it was torrential,
almost winter like. Then the sun came back out. The ground just below Ben Vane itself though is very wet and boggy and staying on the path is almost impossible!

Glen Finglass reservoir.

Lorna and Tess, with Glen Finglass reservoir behind.

Ben Vane just left of centre.

Tess getting wet again!

Looking over to Ben Ledi from Ben Vane.

Ben Vane after the rain.

Glen Finglass reservoir from just below Ben Vane.

Scottish snow conditions - 3rd Annual, "Not Quite Touching The Void", Ben Nevis summit camp - 31st May 2014.

2014-06-01T19:30:00.000-07:00

All the essential kit required for an overnight camp on the summit of Ben Nevis!

Jon and Willy, on the track up to the top, North Face car park. Once we'd crossed the Alt a Mhuilin by the wier, we headed crfoss country to the Half Way Lochan.

Stunning views on the way up, especially over to the Ring of Steal. Note the arrows on the path. These were for the folks taking part in the Rat Race.

Usual messy snow to cross near and around Gardyloo Gully and the summit.

Luckily, there was just enough snow in between the ruins to get the tent in and away from the passing hordes. Sadly the litter issue is a big problem. There are, jackets, trousers. pants(!), towels, beer cans, champagne bottles, plastic bottles etc everywhere. There were even 2 Asda carrier bags, that were full of rubbish, but thoughtfully tied shut, below the summit shelter. The inside of the shelter is also in a mess.

On a brighter note, we watched a team of three cross Tower Gap on Tower Ridge: though they did seem to take an interesting line on the exit side of the gap!

Climbers in Tower Gap. Note the sloping ramp on the left of the gap: the route they took.

Occaisionally, runners from the Rat Race would arrive at the manned checkpoint at the summit cairn, but eventually, the place quietened down, so I went for a wander over to the North East Buttress end of the plateau.

Looking back over the North Face from somewhere near the top of Observatory Ridge.

Hardly any snow left on the CMD Arete, as seen from the top of the North East Buttress.

As the crowds disappeared, and the temperature dropped a little, we got a brief glimpse of a sunset in the distance. The clouds soon cam in though and we were once again alone in the mist. Apart from the guy at the checkpoint, who left at 11pm.

After a reasonable night, with only a few noisy, excitable folks who'd made it to the top, we struck camp and headed for No 4 Gully. There is still a lot of snow all around the rim of the plateau and gullies to be aware of, especially in the gloomy conditions. No 3 Gully above.

We had already put on crampons in the hope of descending No 4 Gully, but it was not to be. There was no actual cornice, but a vertical wall of snow, about 3/4 meters. Then a few crack, hole and bergshrund type features, making it too dodgy to attempt to belly flop down onto carrying large packs!

A rope would've made all the difference in confidence. Once over the difficulties, it would've been straightforward down climbing until the angle eased off. It looked like I wasn't going to use my new DMM Raptors this time around?

The only remaining option was to bumslide the Red Burn, which still complete to just above the waterfall on the bend.

All good fun and much quicker than going down the zig zags.

The last part of the Red Burn down to the waterfall. Always entertaining sliding past the zig zags as peaople slog up, or down the path.

Two days in Wasdale - 17th / 18th May, 2014. Day 2.

2014-05-18T20:30:00.000-07:00

Sheep pushes tree over!

The long plod up through Hollow Stones.

Scafell Pike's north facing crags.

Scafell and Broad Stand from the Mountain Rescue Box.

Lord's Rake from the stretcher box.

Great Gable seen from Scafell Pike.

Back at Stockley Bridge and Seathwaite.

Two days in Wasdale - 17th / 18th May, 2014. Day 1.

2014-05-18T19:00:00.000-07:00

Myself and Jon spent 2 days in Wasdale. Day one was from Seathwaite, up to Styhead Tarn, via Taylor Force Gill.

From the stretcher box at the tarn, we took the path for the Climbers Traverse, crossing the Hell Gate gullies and the climbers crags.

Spot the climbers on Trophet Wall.

We didn't "Thread the Needle", as we were carrying large packs, so went below,
watching the climbing action as we did so.

Home for the night - Wasdale Head.

Scafells from Great Gable.

Final look at the Napes Ridges as we descended the scree for the main path to Wasdale.

Back on solid ground!

A welcome sight.

Great Gable from the campsite at the Wasdale Head Inn.

Two days in Patterdale, May 2014.

2014-05-08T17:00:00.000-07:00

The weather was fairly kind to us over the four days (two days walking), we were at Sykeside Farm Campsite in Patterdale. Our first days walk was up to Grisedale Tarn from the Patterdale Hotel. Sadly, although we never got wet , the low cloud and fog meant we saw little of Striding Edge to our right , or St Sunday Crag's summit, or even Pinnacle Ridge to our left.
Equally sad was the fat that the Patterdale Hotel doesn't allow dogs in the bar!

On the second walk, we started at Hartsop, and headed up Threshwaite Cove and left to Thorneythwaite Crag summit (with it's "Beacon" cairn). From there, we went over High Street with a small detour to take a look over Kentmere Reservoir and then back down to Hartsop.

Scottish Winter Conditions ? Ledge Route, Ben Nevis (very little snow - in crampons!), 22nd April 2014. HD Video.

2014-04-22T20:00:00.000-07:00

Possibly the last winter day out for this year?

Myself and Jon walked up to the CIC hut, and spent far too long trying to cross the Allt A Mhuilinn before finally heading up to Number 5 Gully to start The Ledge Route. We put on crampons in the hope they might be needed for some of the route, but as it turned out, they weren't!

Some old avalanche debris and stones below Number 5 Gully.

Still lots of snow and big cornices on most of the gullies.

Looking across to Tower Ridge, Observatory Ridge and North East Buttress. The CMD, didn't look complete form what we could see.

Jon about to negotiate the second patch of snow!

After the initial ramp ,then the first wee gully, there was no snow up to the small tower and on to the wall.

Looking down at the wall section. There was the occasional patch of snow, either avoidable, or crossable with care due to the holes!

Number 5 Gully seen from the last section of the Ledge Route. It seemed pointless battling in to the wind to go to the summit, especially with no views to be had. So we took a bearing for the Red Burn, and enjoyed a 700 metre-ish, bumslide down to the waterfall on the tourist path, where there were still a couple of passable snow sections.

Quick way down. Bumslide down the Red Burn :)

Video of the Ledge Route.

Ben Alder Cottage, Loch Ericht, 12th April 2014.

2014-04-13T11:39:00.000-07:00

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Scottish Winter (Ski) Conditions, Cairngorm Mountain - 5th April 2014.

2014-04-05T19:30:00.000-07:00

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Scottish Winter Conditions - Spiral Gully, Coire an t-Sneachda, 30th March 2014.

2014-03-30T23:00:00.000-07:00

Ive' been wanting to climb Spiral Gully for a while now, and today was the first opportunity this winter where it seemed possible. Ian and myself were the first people in the corrie, and it was only as we checked out the route, shown in yellow, that we saw a couple more teams arriving. The two guys we spoke to at the stretcher box were going for Fluted Buttress Direct, and it turned out we would see them on and off as we both climbed our respective routes.

Still some large cornices hanging over the Trident gullies.

The Mess of Pottage looking a little clearer now, but Jacob's still has a serac style cornice above it!

We saw a couple of teams heading over towards Fiacaill Buttress.

First pitch of Sprial Gully up the right hand groove of the twin grooves.

Higher up in the right slanting gully, of Spiral Gully. Much better here here than on the strangely steep, broken ground below it.

A small section before the col, was starting to get bare with a few rocks showing.

The col itself was more of an arete leading left to the summit.

Lots of snow waiting to go somewhere!

Skiers at Aladdins seat, on their way down the couloir.

Ski tourers on their way over the top of the Mess of Pottage.

Another video of our day!