Nouveau Vintage

Why do so few women's tailored jackets have double vents?

2025-11-12T14:26:00.008-05:00

As I step into the world of women's tailoring, I find more interesting aspects about it all the time. Namely, the common differences between it and men's tailoring.

Cordings offers one of the few women's brass-buttoned, single breasted navy blazers I've seen with double vents.

One of the accepted style choices in womenswear is notch lapels with a double breasted jacket, which to me simply looks wrong regardless of the body shape of the wearer. Peak lapels balance better with the wrap of a double breasted jacket. But what I see the least of is something I took for granted in men's suits since the late 2000s (around the time I started this blog): double vents.

To me, this Theory suit looks wrong no matter what.

Once in a while I'll see double vents on a women's double breasted jacket, as that was traditionally what was used by Savile Row tailors since it harmonizes better with the increased number of buttons. But even that is a rarity. Single vents seem to rule over women's tailored jackets almost exclusively.

A welcome reprieve from Polo.

The explanations I've seen for this vary, from claiming that double vents look more masculine to single vents harmonizing better with a woman's body. I don't really accept that, given the overall shape of a jacket is what makes it appear more feminine or masculine. Vent styles simply connote different things or have different functionality. For example, double vents allow you to reach into your trouser pockets easier and are the best choice for dinner suits because they look less sporty than a single vent. Additionally, they harmonize better with the wrap on the front of a double breasted jacket. Yet almost every example of the latter two made for women have single vents. Even dinner suits have single vents almost exclusively. One thing I'm beginning to see are longer, below hip jackets for women that have no vents at all, reminiscent of 1980s tailoring. Personally, I would find that more preferable on a dinner jacket or anything double breasted and have a single vent closed up on those. It does have the side effect of making it harder to move around and sit down in, however. (Women just can't have pockets or function because the fashion industry wants to sell us more fancy purses!)

This "menswear-inspired tuxedo" may as well be a black suit with silk facings considering the two buttons, flapped/ticket pockets, and single vent that make it less distinctly a dinner suit.

I got a couple of suits made for me over two years ago when I worked as a team lead for a made-to-measure showroom. We had just debuted the new women's fit and I was eager to be the first guinea pig. I got one suit with double vents, the other with a single vent. The latter is fine, but I definitely prefer the double vents. Not all of us are as discerning or in need of made-to-measure as I am—I am 6'1 and have broad shoulders, so like Karlie Kloss things nearly always fit tight and short on me off the rack. Thankfully, Ralph Lauren also offers a few options if you're of the same mind as me about vents. Interestingly, half of them appear to be cropped (above hip length) when those could have no vent at all if desired. The shorter a jacket is, the less need there is for vents. I still like to have them, but that's a personal preference.

Two different Ralphie jackets with double vents. The one on the left benefits more from them and, in fact, should have longer vents to function better.

I am not entirely sure how this perception about women's tailoring and single vents started or why. Even my friend, a published menswear expert, admits that a single vent simply looks more feminine to him based on what he's seen the most. While there are numerous assertions about what looks masculine or feminine, this is one area I don't really agree in since it makes no difference in the silhouette. If anything, I feel like a double vent that flares out towards the sides would help create more feminine lines. Additionally, a single vent isn't as harmonious with some styles or formality levels of tailoring. Fortunately, one can find women's tailoring with a double vent by searching hard enough or getting made-to-measure.

What kind of vents do you prefer on your tailored jackets and why?

Navy blazers are underrated and underappreciated.

2025-11-10T03:20:00.001-05:00

By blazer, I don't mean any old sports jacket or sport coat, whatever you want to call it. I don't even mean the erroneous term of "suit blazer", which should just be called a suit jacket and is part of a matching set including trousers or skirt. I mean specifically the solid colour tailored jacket that is usually but not always finished with metal or mother-of-pearl buttons. Those block striped regatta/rowing/boating blazers are a subcategory that I'm not discussing here, they're dandyish and can look pretty nice, but they're not so versatile. There are also countless colours for blazers, including hunter green and even purple! But I'm going to pare down this discussion here and focus on what most people think of when they picture a classic blazer: solid navy with metal, usually brass, buttons. The fabric should ideally be something that can't be mistaken for a mere suit jacket with metal buttons, like hopsack or doeskin. Most people won't notice, but having a textural difference between it and other parts of your outfit is a plus, especially if wearing wool trousers.

Double breasted navy blazers with brass buttons make a statement. Ralph Lauren has several of them to choose from at the moment.

Back before I transitioned, I owned a few different navy blazers. The first and most unfortunate was a thrifted polyester hopsack that was seventies-tastic in a bad way, which I never posted here on this blog since I gave it away to someone else before it began. Another was a Brooks Brothers three-roll-two sack number, which has been pictured on this blog. The second one fit me much better, though eventually I ditched the "American trad" look as my body changed shape and didn't look quite as good in straight-cut tailored jackets without darting. This is to say nothing of my changing relationship with the kind of men who often wear "trad" clothing. (Namely cisgender, heterosexual men who aggressively attack the LGBTQIA+ community simply because of their own insecurities.) Later, I got a double breasted six button, two to close blazer from Burberry. That would be the last navy blazer I owned. Like the Brooks Brothers one, this one also got too snug for me over time. I also didn't wear it that much since the shoulders were borderline too narrow for my own to begin with and the low-fastening front looked a little dated. Crucially, the last two blazers I owned were secondhand clothing purchased online from men who previously loved them and wanted to pass them on to a deserving owner. I'm not really made of Burberry money, especially since they've shifted from pricey, but well made, to just plain pricey designer tosh. (A reason I'm clinging to my pre-all-caps, full length, proper Burberry trench coat for dear life, they're becoming harder to find as time goes on.) I also reviewed Anderson-Little's navy blazer on this blog a decade and half ago, finding it to be acceptable for the price apart from the lack of a lapel buttonhole.

Brooks Brothers "No. 1 Sack Blazer"—very similar to what I used to own apart from the hooked vent.

Alas, the last decade has been hard on the venerable navy blazer. They're not often seen in fashion anymore after the short-lived preppy trend of the 2010s, have a reputation of looking like part of a cheap uniform, and most damningly they look old fashioned or old mannish. Most bizarrely, I was told I look like a ship captain by a young store clerk when wearing the Burberry one with a pair of Breton red chinos. Not a very ship captain look in my opinion! Then again, I used to call tweed sports jackets "old man suits" in all my ill-educated teenage wisdom, so I don't really fault anyone for having that perception at a glance. Recently though, I've seen navy blazers come back a little bit. Many clothing retailers never stopped selling them, but definitely cut back on the variety. Brooks Brothers literally only has one women's navy blazer with brass buttons. Talk about gender disparity! They need to catch up to Ralphie's lineup.

Single breasted navy blazers are still a sound choice for anyone of any gender, such as this womenswear example with hacking pockets from Brooks Brothers.

Let's go back to Polo Ralph Lauren for a second, though. I recently stopped by one of their factory stores and had a look around. Found a great herringbone sports jacket and... it actually fit me! This almost never happens with women's tailored clothing, but thankfully the proportions were just right in the shoulder and sleeve. A few days later, the subject of my friend Matt's Spaiser Blazer Mk IV came up, referring to the gorgeous garment gifted to him by Alan David Custom. I had admired it since he talked about and shared pictures of it with me, then posted it on his blog last year. Coincidentally, I saw a pretty striking blazer on the Ralph Lauren website when going into one of my autistic rabbit holes of looking up as many inspirations, references, and mental bookmarks as I could with a Google search of "double breasted navy blazer". Could something like this be what I actually need in my wardrobe now?

Matt's bespoke blazer from Alan David Custom, complete with sew-through metal buttons and single button link cuffs. Immaculate.

Right now, I have little need for suits. While I'm a bridal seamstress, my outfits consists of little more than a black top and black trousers, since black or neutral colours are the uniform of where I work. Sometimes I'll spice things up with a casual black dress, but not too often and only when I'm not doing any fittings. (I'm required to bend, sit, or crouch down to mark hems... I don't think my customers would appreciate a flash of panties while worrying about their upcoming nuptials.) Additionally, I own a few special occasion dresses which will fit the bill just fine without the need for a two- or three-piece suit. I have a couple women's cut suits that were made-to-measure, but they barely fit me now since I got, well, let's just say a few more curves than expected in the last couple years. I blame the anti-anxiety medication. They can probably be let out enough. I'll do it eventually, I swear! But why should I spend all that money to do that right now when there's no reason? There are also issues with how they're constructed and detailed, including pockets less than half as deep as on the men's equivalent, failure to include suspender buttons when asked for, no pen or card pockets, and next to no inner construction to speak of.

Okay, sorry for the tangent. My point is, I can easily wear a dress and heels now and know for a fact that I'll look good for an occasion. Meanwhile, I own a few different colours and styles of jeans, chinos, and skirts. A navy blazer could be just the thing for those. Slightly chilly, need a touch of warmth over a dress? Slip one on and wear a light scarf. Need to dress up ordinary casual attire? Once again, the navy blazer excels at all tasks. One could argue that there are a number of other sports jacket options out there, but a navy blazer works in just about any environment and can dress up or down depending on how it's worn. Double breasted is a little harder to justify for some people, but it's definitely for me. While not necessarily more formal, it's definitely eye-catching, sartorial, more niche. I think they look good on anyone, contrary to what some claim. The only downside is that it usually needs to be closed to look good and remain closed while seated. It could be argued that, worn casually, it's not as bad to let it flap around. But I'll let you decide if this works outside of a carefully staged photoshoot.

Same blazer as the first image, worn open with a devil-may-care attitude.

Ralph Lauren's designers have a particular fixation on double breasted closure right now, they make up the majority of the women's blazers with metal buttons. Even Roger Moore might have told them they need to tone it down a bit!

The double breasted blazer was a signature look of Roger Moore in his personal life.

Rather humorously, my friend recently remarked, "I feel like even more than other types of jackets, DB immediately changes the vibe of a blazer. Single breasted button two navy blazer? It's giving frat bro, it's giving wannabe old money, it's giving 'still wishes Ivy never went out of style but hates that everyone wears it these days'. DB, especially worn without a tie? Playboy, cool, relaxed summer outfit." I don't know if I quite agree with what she said about two button blazers, but they definitely aren't as unique in a sea of two button suits and sports jackets. I personally like the brass buttons and embrace the look. I own a vintage military bridge coat that still has all the brass buttons attached. It gets me noticed for sure, but it's positive attention. But for those who think it's too much bling, you can tone it down with antiqued brass. Failing that, silver or gunmetal are good alternatives. Better still, do what Matt did with his Proper Cloth blazer and get mother-of-pearl buttons. (Real ones, if you can.) The wonderful thing about buttons is that they're the easiest thing to change and most everyone can sew them on or knows a friend who can.

Matt's two button blazer has more subtle, but still distinct, faux mother-of-pearl buttons.

What are your thoughts on navy blazers? Still relevant or hopelessly old-fashioned? How do you like to wear them if you own one or more?

Wake Up Dead Man: My Initial Thoughts

2024-10-04T00:37:00.005-04:00

Filming on Wake Up Dead Man wrapped earlier this year. We were able to see a few photos from the set along with an official production photo of Daniel Craig, returning for his third outing as Southern US American "gentleman detective" Benoit Blanc. Jenny Eagan has taken Benny-boy from slightly scruffy but well dressed in Knives Out to Hollywood dandy in Glass Onion. She apparently is furthering the caricature of an old-fashioned private detective even more in the upcoming film, complete with a full-length trench coat, three piece suit, and fedora.

Production photo of Daniel Craig, Netflix

The suit looks to be an olive-taupe colour with a large blue windowpane, perhaps a wool flannel suiting based on how matte it appears in the light. His shirt is solid light blue, the tie is medium blue with a small repeating pattern of navy bordered gold diamonds, and the shoes are black. His fedora hat is brown, which could conjure to mind Indiana Jones... that is, if the shape were not completely different from Harrison Ford's most famous bit of headwear. The trench coat is a warm, rosy tan that compliments his complexion along with the suit, while the shirt and tie bring out his blue eyes.

Photo of Daniel Craig taken on set, SplashNews

In close ups, we can see that his tie is held in place by a silver tie tack, perhaps the type that attaches to a chain and a shirt button. This is unnecessary since he is wearing a waistcoat, and wouldn't function too well without one given how high up it is, but perhaps it is simply meant as a decorative bit of foppery.

Photo of Daniel Craig and two crew members taken on set, SplashNews

In an interesting departure for the character, Benoit wears shirts with high semi-spread collars now, contrasting with the vintage-style point collars of the previous two films. It frames the large half-Windsor knot of the tie well. The points are quite long, which is not a problem in itself, but the height almost overwhelms his neck. Normal height collars tend to work better for him. Some people believe men of a certain age should always wear neckerchiefs with an open collar, such as the ones he did in the last movie, or a tie in order to disguise their aging necks. While I don't personally subscribe to this view, completely covering the neck is unnecessary regardless of how one feels about the subject. Balance and proportion are always key. It's unclear what cuff style the shirt has, but I'm guessing they are button cuffs of some type based on what can be glimpsed peeking out of his jacket sleeve in the monochromatic production photo. They look a bit thin and flat to be double cuffs. I would very much like to see the folded back cocktail cuffs of the last film return if possible.

Photo of Daniel Craig taken on set, SplashNews

The addition of a full length trench coat to his wardrobe is a welcome one to me. It recalls the fabled gentlemen detectives he is said to be the last of. The slow return of full length coats to fashion is a pleasant sight in general. There are only a couple downsides to the design. The most obvious to me is that the collar makes the coat look like it has ordinary notch lapels, something that doesn't look very balanced on anything double breasted. It can cheapen the look of an otherwise well-made coat — this one is traditional in almost every other respect, complete with raglan shoulders and and a self-belted waist. A downward-pointing collar, with hook and eye closure at the stand, also functions better when closing the coat all the way up against rain. The other, more minor negative is that it appears to have ordinary slash pockets like on a pea coat. This also doesn't function very well in keeping the contents dry as opposed to a traditional buttoned flap, though it appears in these scenes that he is merely using the coat to stay a bit warmer than his suit would provide.

Photo of Daniel Craig taken on set, SplashNews

The suit has a two button front, horizontal flap pockets, and wide notch lapels on the jacket. His waistcoat has five buttons with two lower jetted pockets. It's generally advised that men under a certain height wear five button waistcoats rather than six, at 5'10 Daniel Craig is right on the edge. Most waistcoats have welt pockets on the front, same as on a suit jacket's left breast, so the jetted pockets add a bit of distinction. The trousers have a flat front and no cuffs. It is unclear how the trousers are held up, though braces are the preferred method under a waistcoat. I also cannot tell from these images what type of vent the jacket has, though a long single or double vent would be equally at home with the aesthetic. The cut is wildly different from previous suits the character has worn, with a longer jacket skirt and flared trouser legs. I had initially thought he was wearing wide legs as in Glass Onion, but the fit of the thighs in the production photo suggests it flares out from the knee. Overall, the suit has a more 1970s look, standing apart from the modern American cut of Knives Out and the combination of 1920s jacket and 1940s trousers in Glass Onion. The wide tie and higher collar add to this perception.

Photo of Daniel Craig taken on set, SplashNews

Another set photo shows him wearing almost exactly the same outfit, but the tie appears burgundy with gold diamonds instead. The suit may be a warmer colour, but it could also be different lighting.

The only other miss to this outfit besides the collar of the trench coat are the shoes. Judging from the photo, they could be black calf leather oxfords without any wingtip or brogue details. Unlike with his dark grey tweed suit in the first movie, black doesn't go especially well with the warm tones of his outfit, particularly the olive-taupe suiting and his brown fedora. Medium brown would be a better choice. It would also help him look at home in the surroundings of the English countryside.

This is an interesting direction for Benoit Blanc. I very much enjoyed how Eagan dressed him in the first two movies, with the second developing his dandyish tendencies a bit more. Here, the result is simultaneously more reserved but also more adventurous. I'm curious to see the outfit in context with the rest of the movie. The elegant and colourful resort wear in the previous movie had a mixed response when first glimpsed by fans in production photos, but gained a warmer reception in the context of the film's plot. Whatever the case may be, I eagerly await the next film.

Set photos from SplashNews. Utilized under fair use doctrine for education purposes.

I'm not gone.

2024-05-13T15:13:00.002-04:00

Readers, I'm still alive! Priorities have shifted for me in the last two years as I've focused on my gender transition and, thus, rebuilding my wardrobe almost entirely from scratch. The online blogs I used to write for professionally have pretty much stopped being active as well, which is a source of additional income that has disappeared for me. Additionally, my career has recently shifted from made-to-measure, to trouser alterations, to altering dresses -- primarily bridal, bridesmaid, and prom -- all in the span of a year.

While I enjoyed many aspects of being a team lead at a shop focused entirely on MTM clothing, it was unfortunately not a good fit for me in the end due to the expectation that I perform the duties of an assistant manager yet not have the title and pay. Additionally, the insurance offered by them was not sufficient for my transition care needs and very overpriced.

Later, I moved back to a mass-market retailer I previously worked for since there was an opening for alterations fitters and sewers and I would get back the insurance I had before. However, the demands became too much, hours became scarce, management had no respect for my neurodivergence or gender identity, and rather than try to work with HR to resolve this and make myself the target of retaliation, I decided to move jobs yet again.

So far, the bridal industry has been good to me. I've learned more in my first two months than I did in the eight months I was at my prior employer. I have good managers who are good mentors and have confidence in my abilities. They accommodate my reasonable needs. Customers love me, just as they did in past jobs.

While gender dysphoria has become something of a recurring theme, I'm still happier with myself than I ever have been. I don't see quite the same number of rules I used to when it came to dressing well. I've embraced the colour black a lot more. Anyone who reads the archive of blog posts here dating back 17 years can see I was not a "failure" of a man. It was just a mask that I wore very well.

Needless to say, if you don't like transgender people or don't care about them, you are free to move on to another clothing blog. I'd hope you would educate yourself more about us and stick around, but I can't force people to change their minds. I simply hope you will find more love in your life for people who aren't hurting others by merely existing as themselves.

I'll still be covering some of the same subjects along with my insights in how I've shifted my dressing in the last couple years, how a menswear education informed it, and some tips and tricks for those who might still be closeted or starting in their own journeys as trans women.

Right now, I'm working on another movie wardrobe analysis article. Stay tuned. Hopefully it won't take a year this time.

Amazing what two years of difference can make.

A long overdue update on this blog and my life.

2022-02-21T00:06:00.005-05:00

You might notice there's been no activity on my blog. This is especially since I'm once again employed in the fashion industry as a made-to-measure clothing specialist. Most of my outside efforts have gone to my friends' websites and podcasts, namely The Kavalier and From Tailors With Love. (Buy the latter's book, by the way, it is a fantastic read for anyone even somewhat interested in the clothing of James Bond.) There are a few other reasons why I've been silent on here.

If you follow me on social media, you'll have noticed a change in my name and presentation. I am now Giselle, pronouns she/they. My birth name was nice, unique even. But I felt it didn't reflect who I was and who I've become. Giselle may be less unique, but it's also more me.

While I still love menswear and tailored clothing, I had been denying my gender identity for at least a decade. I first came out as non-binary (more specifically genderfluid) to my friends and family in the first few months of the global COVID-19 pandemic. Being laid off from my previous job had given me time to really consider who I was and what I was doing with my life. While I can't say I have a definitive answer to the second, I knew that I was not my assigned gender at birth. Another year brought more realizations, one of which that I never really felt comfortable as a man. I wore the skin of a man. I looked like a man. Behaved like one for the sake of others. Was socialized like one most of my life. But that never truly made me one. All the things that should have made me feel masculine felt hollow. Being tall, for brief periods of time having half-decent muscles, having great tailored clothing. It wasn't all a performance. I still love masculine clothing, but I've realized it's the same reason that many cisgender women do: Gender-nonconformity. A look that speaks to them despite that it's not traditionally what they "should" be wearing. It's also the reason that, while I haven't always been perfect about it, I've certainly tried to push back against patriarchal ideas. That's lost me some friends, alienated me from a lot of male co-workers, and given me labels from unsophisticated minds like cuck, soyboy, and beta.

I'm not particularly bothered by that anymore. Those people don't deserve me and I wouldn't have it any other way. I prefer to keep the company of people who accept me for who I am, because merely being who I am doesn't harm anyone. My co-workers love me for who I am, even if we don't all share the same interests. I'm trans, I have a neurodevelopmental disorder, and I'm also frakking fabulous. My body shape looks more like what I wish I had always looked. I'm wearing clothes outside the artificial restrictions of gender I had imposed on myself for decades. I'm even bending and breaking a few rules. I only wish I had realized this back in my 20s.

Some of my future is now uncertain since society at large is still unused to trans and gender-nonconforming people. Even the most accepting areas of the world have a lot of catching up to do with regards to laws, medicine, and general treatment. I'm not out to everyone in my life out of necessity -- some of my family still know me as my old name and gender because I quite frankly don't want to have a long and exhausting conversation about it where they continue bandying about the same tired old arguments they learned from dubious sources. But my loving wife, friends, and most of my family backs me up and always have. That's all I could ask for. I hope my readers, whoever they still may be here, will also love me the way I am.

The blog is still here for those who want to read and I probably won't take it down anytime soon. I honestly don't know how much I'll update it in the future, especially since I can get paid to write the same type of things I do here. You can still interact with me on Instagram and Facebook, I'm more likely to respond quickly in those two places. There you will find, among other things, observations about how my changing body and shapewear affects the menswear I purchased in the past. I still plan to contribute to The Kavalier and From Tailors With Love in my spare time as well.

Giselle is just getting started.

From Tailors With Love: The Great Gatsby (2013)

2020-12-18T00:38:00.000-05:00

A second part to my conversation about The Great Gatsby's film adaptations with Pete and Dan is up now. This time, we cover the 2013 version starring Leonardo DiCaprio.

As always, let me know what you think about it. The first part, covering the 1974 version starring Robert Redford, is mentioned on my blog here.

My guest appearances on From Tailors With Love:

From Tailors With Love: The Great Gatsby (1974)

2020-12-09T20:34:00.006-05:00

If anyone's been following me on Instagram, they'll likely know at least one of three things:

I make occasional guest appearances on From Tailors With Love, a podcast which my friend Matt Spaiser frequently co-hosts with Peter Brooker. It originally focused on James Bond films alone, but has since branched out to other spy films, movies Bond actors have starred in, or just stylish films in general.
I have a life outside of menswear, as well as own casual clothing. Even some graphic tees. I am only human, people.
I've just come out as non-binary to the public. Masculine and feminine pronouns. So really, you can keep referring to me with masculine pronouns if you always have and I won't be offended. (It shouldn't need to be said that disrespect for the LGBTQA community and other marginalized people will not be tolerated.)

Such beautiful shirts.

Recently we got together with another friend of mine, Daniel Stroupe, Bespoke Administrator at Turnbull & Asser New York, and recorded two or three episodes of From Tailors With Love in one day. Whew! It was a doozy, but also a great deal of fun discussing period accuracy in film costuming. As it always is for me. Pete just released the episode where we discuss the 1974 adaptation of The Great Gatsby starring Robert Redford with costumes provided by Ralph Lauren, designed by Theoni V. Aldredge. To my pleasant surprise, he used pretty much all the notes I made about it.

Let me know what you think. Other episodes of the podcast I've guested on are Knives Out, which I've written about here on The Kavalier, and Kingsman: The Secret Service, which I've written about here on this blog.

Review: The Bow Tie Club

2020-10-10T20:58:00.003-04:00

Not too long ago I was contacted by Kirk Hinckley, one of the founders of The Bow Tie Club. He asked if I would be interested in reviewing a product for them, something I was more than happy to accept. Among their achievements include President Obama wearing one of their American-made bow ties to his 2012 inaugural ball. They also have only 6 employees, making it a very efficient operation since much of their production is made-to-order. Additionally, they were early in adopting the world wide web for commerce.

Goes perfectly with this cutaway collar.

I am not much of a bow tie wearer myself. I mostly own a couple in black satin silk, one in grosgrain, for the very occasional black tie event. However, I can't help but appreciate the love and care on display here for all of their bow ties. Hinckley had been at Brooks Brothers, Jos. A. Bank, and Nordstrom prior to starting his own company in 1994 with the express purpose of making bow ties in the United States of America at a reasonable price. It started as a mail order catalogue but wisely made its way to the internet in 1996. Co-founder Corinne Hsu also started helping design original patterns that were better suited to the smaller size of bow ties. The husband and wife team now provide quality bow ties to aficionados all over the world, made proudly in Maryland.

Simple, unfussy packaging.

But what does that mean to the average bow tie wearer? They offer more variation on shape and width than I've seen anywhere else (save for true bespoke bow ties). Seven different shapes are available, including straight edge and diamond point, for their made to order service. It takes an additional two weeks and there is no upcharge for this service except $5.00 for the butterfly in 3" and 3 1/2" width. There are also three different A basic butterfly, 2 3/4" width and 15-18" neck self-tie, is in stock for all their fabrics. This is a pretty streamlined way to go about things and keep their costs down, considering that shape and size works for most everyone. Kirk informed me that they can make bow ties to fit smaller or larger necks than the default options by special request, so those with smaller necks than 13" or larger necks than 22" can rest easy. On top of that, there are three different options to wear them, self-tie, pre-tied, and clip-on. I would avoid the clip-on type if possible since, in my experience, the clamps tend to leave imprints on one's collar. Clip-ons are useful for theatre productions, however.

The packing slip includes a little more information about the design.

Pre-tied bows are a source of much opprobrium in the menswear community. They never look as good as one that's tied by yourself, tend to be made of cheap materials, and look, well, cheap as a result of that and the too-perfect shape. Fortunately, they do things a little differently at The Bow Tie Club. Instead of just wrapping a uniform piece of fabric around the centre of the bow and stitching it in back, they carefully knot the bows by hand and stitch them into place, helping them achieve a more natural, self-tied look. I would implore able-bodied hands to consider the number of people who simply cannot tie a bow tie themselves due to lowered dexterity. This is something that was brought up to me by a customer when I worked in a menswear shop and suggested he get a self-tie bow instead of pre-tied. I think offering an option between pre-tied and self-tie would be nice too. Training bow ties, as I've sometimes seen them called, come already knotted and fasten in back, but can be undone and tied again if one desires. If this sounds cheesy or pedestrian to you, just remember that one English shirtmaker whose name begins with "T" and ends with "R" makes their bow ties this exact way!

All you need to know.

I was sent the Stella, which my friends Dan, Matt, and Peter said resembled a Piet Mondrian artwork. Indeed, there is another tie in their colour block line called Mondrian. The colours are surprisingly versatile and work with a number of different suits and sports coats. The pattern is printed directly to a thin silk twill which looks quite robust. The insides are not incredibly stiff or thick, but they and the silk recover pretty well. I stress tested it first by wearing it for an eight-hour day. The wrinkles were deep, but mostly released with a bit of light steam from the iron, without pressing. I've had to press other bow ties in my collection after wearing them for a few hours since they won't recover with just steam. This is already a plus.

A simply lovely outfit.

Part of this eight-hour stress test involved being out in public (with my mask, of course) and running errands, where the bow tie garnered many compliments to the tune of, "Say, that's a nice suit!" While one should always dress for themselves first and foremost, it would be disingenuous to say that I don't enjoy compliments on how I look. The original designs by The Bow Tie Club are definitely attention catching. I commend the direction by Corinne on them. While they're not what I'd usually wear, I think all the modern dandies out there will be pleased as punch with them. Combined with my pocket round from Bespoke JB and Pride mask from PeachTee, it was the perfect modern dandy outfit.

Before and after some light steam.

If I were to nitpick anything, I wish there was a little more formal wear selection beyond black and white satin. When asked about it, Kirk let me know that they have offered black grosgrain and white marcella in the past without many sales of them. While they could offer them made-to-order only, I understand that it may not be worth keeping the fabric on hand in the first place. Such is the way of things declining in formality I suppose. I also wish many of these special fabrics were available in neckties, particularly the Scottish wool tartans. I'm a Buchanan by marriage and something like the Buchanan Hunting Wool Tartan, in both bow tie and necktie, would be perfect for me. But, of course, that's not what The Bow Tie Club specializes in and I respect that.

The Bow Tie Club offers affordable bow ties, made in the USA, at great quality, with a varied selection of interesting patterns. Bow tie lovers will not be disappointed.

Disclaimer: This product was sent to Nouveau Vintage, free of charge, for the purposes of a review. Every effort has been made to remain objective and consider quality versus price. Thanks to Kirk Hinckley for sending me this fantastic bow tie.

Review: Diabetic Sock Club -- Crew Socks, Ultra-Soft Upper Calf, Over The Calf Compression Socks

2020-07-21T16:42:00.001-04:00

Recently, Chad O'Neal of Diabetic Sock Club offered to let me try a couple different styles of non-binding sock. I was hesitant at first, given I am not 60+ or diabetic like their core customer base, but Chad assured me that many of their customers just buy them for the comfort. I can also safely assume at least some part of my readership fall into either of those two categories and would find this review beneficial.

The first package I was sent contained several pairs of the Men's Cotton Diabetic Crew Socks and Men's Ultra-Soft Upper Calf Diabetic Socks, both in black. The shipping was super quick, only a couple days after ordering. They come in sticker-wrap packages that proudly declare them to be made in the USA, though oddly without any indication of the fabric content which can only be seen on the product page. The fabric content of the Crew Socks is 80% cotton, 15% polyester, and 5% Lycra. For the Ultra-Soft, it is 95% acrylic, 5% Lycra. I do wish that the packaging wasn't a sticker, since removing it from the shaft of the socks was difficult and had me worried that I'd damage them. I found both styles perfect for wearing with my white Vans sneakers or black Florsheim Imperial chukka boots. The first range has six colour options, beyond just black and white: Grey, navy, beige, and brown. As most stylish people know, limiting yourself to just white and black socks restrict your choices in what they can be worn with. These other colour options are nice for wearing with jeans, desert boots, chinos and other such casual attire. The Ultra-Soft only comes in black and white, but to be fair I found them best for lounging around and with actual athletic sneakers, like the Reebok I exercise in. The fit is slightly looser, so keep that in mind before purchasing. The only downside was that the high acrylic content makes them prone to pilling. Overall, I prefer the Crew Socks but the Ultra-Soft have their place.

Note the open knit.

Both styles have held up nicely, even after many washes. I found the non-binding top very comfortable and it barely slipped down during the day. These perform well in warmer weather, thanks to the open knit of the shaft, and keep their shape. I might recommend the Ultra-Soft for mild or colder weather though, considering they are almost all acrylic and wear a bit warmer. The only frame of reference I have for non-binding socks is the three pairs of Wigwam 625 I got literally over a decade ago. (To their credit, they are still in my wardrobe albeit worn infrequently now.) Unlike the 625, these do not have any issues with wearing out in the heel after only a few wears, sagging, or losing their shape immediately after putting on. I am considering replacing them in my wardrobe with the Cotton Diabetic Crew Socks in beige, which actually looks like more of a cream if the website is accurate. If and when I purchase them, I'll update this review or make a new post so readers can better see the colour in person.

A perfect fit for these casual sneakers.

We discussed things further and found that the Men's Over The Calf Compression Socks would be another good product to review, given that they fit the bill appearance-wise for socks that one can wear with dress shoes and suits, sports coats, or odd trousers. Like the Crew Socks, they are available in six colours: White, black, navy, brown, grey, and tan. I chose the least amount of compression since I don't actually require it and was sent two pairs in navy and brown. My second package arrived just as fast. The compression socks are a bit difficult to put on, but because of that they will never slip down during the entire day you have them on.

These definitely look the part of over-the-calf dress socks.

I am slightly concerned about the longevity of these ones since both pairs are already straining near the heel, but so far nothing has actually broken. Reviews on the website have noted the unfortunate tendency to snag on things. The heel seams on mine have worn a bit after just a few wears and now look fuzzy. Additionally, both pairs already have small, horizontal runs in the knitted fabric. These things need to be looked at to make some quality of life improvements. These are 84% nylon and 16% Spandex. The fabric content is not listed on the website or the packaging and it definitely should be. My legs were slightly clammier wearing these than if I had been wearing Merino wool over-the-calf socks, owing to the high nylon content. I think offering this style in cotton or wool blends like other compression sock manufacturers could help solve this problem. The all-synthetic content may be partially to blame for the premature wear issues as well, much like the pilling with the

The premature wear is problematic.

However, the great thing about any socks bought from Diabetic Sock Club is that they are guaranteed to last a year. If they do not, they will replace them right away. The only thing they ask is that you include a picture of the problem. Their name comes from the fact that you can subscribe, set the interval for new deliveries, and save on the full price (which is already pretty good for American-made). Or you can just make a one-time purchase if you are unsure about making a commitment or won't be wearing your socks often enough to need a fresh pair very often. I also haven't mentioned that every style of sock is available whether you were born male or female, so you'll definitely find some to fit your feet.

The heel seams are already quite strained, even from first putting them on.

I would recommend everyone give the diabetic socks a try at least once, even if you don't have medical conditions that require the use of non-binding hosiery. They are great quality, good for many purposes, light and airy in warmer weather, support American manufacturing, and guaranteed to last. I'm hesitant to recommend the compression socks just yet until there are some quality control issues addressed, but I hope Diabetic Sock Club will be receptive to constructive criticism.

These products were furnished to Nouveau Vintage, free of charge, for the purposes of a review. I have attempted to provide the most objective evaluation I can based on price point, pros, and cons. Thanks again to Chad O'Neal of Diabetic Sock Club.

Knives Out: The Quirky Style of Benoit Blanc

2020-06-08T19:30:00.001-04:00

New article on The Kavalier about Daniel Craig's unique look in "Knives Out". The quirky style of Benoit Blanc is just as essential to his character as his exaggerated accent.

I'm pretty proud of this one and would love any feedback you can give me. Comments are not available at The Kavalier, so feel free to leave them here!

Here's a taste of what I cover in the article.

The Shoes of James Bond: George Lazenby's Sensible Youthfulness

2020-04-27T18:27:00.001-04:00

My second collaborative article with Matt Spaiser, of The Suits of James Bond, is up! This time, we cover the unique dress shoes of one-time-Bond-wonder George Lazenby in On Her Majesty's Secret Service. Read it here on The Kavalier.

As always, please feel free to leave any feedback here, since The Kavalier does not have a comments section.

A Primer on Wedding Suit Details

2020-04-20T18:38:00.002-04:00

My second collaboration with Tailor Cooperative is up now, A Primer on Wedding Suit Details. This is a good start on what to consider when getting a made-to-measure suit for your wedding, so you'll be better prepared for your consultation. Please read it and let me know what you think in the comments!

Active Promotions and Referrals, More on the COVID-19 Pandemic

2020-04-16T17:30:00.002-04:00

Thanks to everyone who is still making use of the promotions from my referral partners at Bonobos, Proper Cloth, and Twillory. I just wanted to remind my readers that, yes, these links are still active and working!

No codes are needed for these, the links will automatically put them in for you. In the interest of full disclosure, these links give me a small amount of points or store credit towards purchases at these companies. It's not money, but it does help me out a bit. So thank you.

This Proper Cloth model laments not being able to show off his sweet style right now.

Now, let's get a little serious. I of course realize that not everyone needs shirts, suits, and ties right now considering the circumstances. Personally, I have purchased a couple items for my wardrobe since this outbreak. New things make me more confident when going on those video calls with friends and employers. Even donning my mask to go grocery shopping can be enhanced a bit by looking stylish, since there are few opportunities to right now. There's no shame in getting little things here and there to keep yourself happy and occupied while stuck indoors. But there's also no shame in keeping your finances as tight as possible right now if you cannot or do not want to do that.

Everyone has a different situation, everyone has different levels of acceptable comfort. I am fortunate to still be taking on some writing assignments right now, as well as having a wife with a stable and high-powered career in an essential industry. There's food in our fridge. But there are many who are nowhere near as fortunate. Please consider donating money to the charities helping keep people afloat during this crisis, if you can spare it. Those stimulus payments in the United States can only do so much, some people won't be getting them until many months later, and people in certain industries or lines of work are not even eligible for the stimulus due to arbitrary and, frankly, prejudiced reasons. So if you can spare a few bucks to those in need, please do it.

We'll get back to normalcy eventually, I promise. Not all at once, as some people mistakenly seem to believe. It will be a process. But we'll get there.

Regarding the Pandemic

2020-04-08T18:54:00.001-04:00

I hope everyone is doing okay in isolation. If you're working from home, please make sure you're taking breaks if possible and keeping a hobby or something else that brings you joy between work. Please, however, ignore those shaming people for not having a new skill by the time everyone returns to work. This is not a form of positive reinforcement or constructive whatsoever. We are in a pandemic, not a global sabbatical. Your first priority should be making ends meet. That is extremely difficult if one is in poverty, as so many have suddenly found themselves. You are not a lesser person for focusing on that.

To those who have to work on-site, please be as safe as you can. Also know that all of you are not just "essential", you deserve far better pay and benefits for what you're doing right now. All of you who work at grocery stores, restaurants, blue collar jobs, etc. -- alongside medical professionals, YOU are the ones helping the world run right now. Without you, we don't have food, household supplies, and necessary services. Thank you for what you do. I hope you unionize against terrible pay and treatment.

Unfortunately, this pandemic is going to affect how often this blog is updated even more than my taking paid assignments first. (Since there is a relative lack of them at present.) Finding steady work, any work, is my top priority right now after being laid off. It's also difficult to find things worth blogging about in the world of tailored clothing when most white collar employees don't even put on a sports coat for Skype and Zoom conferences. However, if there's a subject you're interested in me writing about, please let me know and I will put some time into it when I can.

Thank you all for understanding. Again, I hope all my readers are safe, finding the best moments they can in this economic and health crisis, and doing their best to connect to others long distance.

The Shoes of James Bond: Sean Connery's Simple Elegance

2020-03-30T14:27:00.000-04:00

On The Kavalier now is The Shoes of James Bond: Sean Connery's Simple Elegance -- a collaboration between me and Matt Spaiser, author of The Suits of James Bond.

The first dress shoes we see in the series.

In it, we break down the deceptively simple shoe and boot wardrobe of Sean Connery as 007. From classic cap toe oxfords to snazzy jodhpur boots, there is actually a lot more variation than most have in their footwear collection today.

Please let me know what you think in the comments! Although comments are not enabled on The Kavalier, I most certainly welcome feedback here.

Fine Clothing Care: Increasing The Lifespan of Your Wardrobe

2020-03-09T21:29:00.001-04:00

My first collaboration with Tailor Cooperative is now up, Fine Clothing Care: Increasing The Lifespan of Your Wardrobe. This is an informative piece which focuses on caring for all the various made-to-measure items sold by Tailor Cooperative, including raw denim and shoes. Please read it and let me know what you think in the comments!

Paid assignments and other delays.

2020-02-22T18:22:00.001-05:00

Hello, everyone.

Settling into Utah has not been without its challenges. One of them is finding stable employment, the other is having less time, money, and energy to do what I love because of that.

Tailor Cooperative, Salt Lake City

Fortunately, I've been writing some paid assignments recently, one of them was published the other week regarding the accuracy of '90s costuming in a Marvel Studios movie. Please feel free to let me know what you think about it in the comments below, since The Kavalier does not itself have a comments section for the blog.

I am also in the midst of writing a set of clothing care guidelines for a made-to-measure business in Salt Lake City that is considered, with good reason, to be the best. I am very excited to be working with them on this, as I've admired Tailor Cooperative's work and values for a while since arriving to the Salt Lake Valley. Here are a few pics I snapped of the shop during one of my visits.

Good policy.

Inside view of the store.

Nice looking topcoat.

True to their mission statement, they provide clothing for all genders. Having access to clothing as high quality as menswear for women, or anyone else born with a feminine body, is a convenient service for citizens of the Salt Lake Valley.

A couple more examples of their work and the aesthetic of the shop.

In short, I will be focusing primarily on paid writing and reviews where the product is provided or discounted. I'll also try to update whenever an article written for another website goes up, since not everyone has Instagram. (I am @nouveauvintagejovan if you are interested, though.)

I hope everybody understands. This blog has always been a passion project for me, but at a certain point I can only write so much when Google Ads gives me very little back for what I invest into it.

Review: CircleRock -- High Road Vest and Cortina Nylon Vest

2019-11-01T16:38:00.001-04:00

Last year, I got to talking with Paul Grangaard who had announced the start of his new company, CircleRock. Formerly the CEO of Allen Edmonds, an American shoe company, it was successfully kept afloat under his leadership. CircleRock would focus on giving the online made-to-order experience but with higher quality American-made tailored clothing. To that end, they enlisted the aid of Southwick who has been a respected clothing manufacturer for 90 years. They create all the suits, sports coats, trousers, and shirts.

Recently, however, they have moved into ready-to-wear business casual attire to meet the needs of people who don't need a suit for work but also shouldn't wear one... lest they be ostracized by their coworkers or, worse, break a relaxed dress code that forbids anything so much as a tie or sports coat. As sad as that makes me, someone who appreciates traditional menswear, it is a present reality we must deal with. Tailored clothing is not something in as high of demand as it used to be for business, even as Gen Y and Z are keeping it afloat by wearing it because they want to.

The Cortina Nylon's inner pockets are pretty useful, though it could use one higher up at chest level.

A trend that has been going on for at least five years is one towards fleece zip vests with business casual clothing, particularly in the tech industry. It began being reported on last year and the trend even made news earlier this year when one of the most popular sources for them, Patagonia, controversially started only selling embroidered apparel to companies who have an environmentally-friendly approach. The look even features in in the Mike Judge series Silicon Valley. Obviously, CircleRock saw an opportunity to get in on this and offer a more refined take. This was the inspiration for one of the names, since they're taking the "High Road" here. While they don't offer embroidery on the breast (yet?), their "midtown uniform" centrepiece will look a little smarter than all the synthetic fleece offerings. Wool flannel, authentic Harris Tweed, quilted nylon, and knitted Merino wool make up their collection of smart zip vests for fall and winter.

The fit is quite flattering on the Cortina Nylon.

They do come at a price though. Starting at $295 and up to $395, these are certainly not the same $60-80 fleece numbers from the likes of L.L.Bean nor are they meant to be. These are pieces that will last a long time and look more appropriate with business casual than something meant for golf or hiking. But are they worth it? Thankfully Rick Dow, their Chief Marketing Officer, was kind enough to send me two examples so I could decide for myself. One was their "High Road" model in Harris Tweed olive barleycorn (which reads more as a cool brown to me) and the other was their "Cortina Nylon" in navy. Both fit into my casual wardrobe beautifully, colour and style wise. Yes, believe it or not, I do own casual clothing.

The Cortina Nylon comes with a throat latch to be closed against the wind.

The High Road was on backorder for a month due to Harris Tweed fabric being in short supply. In its place, the Cortina Nylon was sent. I was very impressed. For a "vest with some outdoor DNA that will work really well indoors" it has a rather flattering fit. There's a bit of a nip at the waist to differentiate it from the straight-fitting examples made by most outdoor clothing retailers. Additionally, the zippers are high quality and work well, though they don't join together at the bottom quite as smoothly as I'd like. That might be due to them being two-way, which I haven't made use of yet but could look nice with the bottom zipper moved up a couple inches. There are two sets of interior pockets in addition to the slanted hand warmers outside. More than enough for your wallet, phone, keys, and so forth. One set has hidden zippers for extra security and the other set are open at the top. Both are situated on the same piece that makes up the hand warmers. Efficient use of space. I'd prefer pockets on the inside breast to hold my smartphone and wallet and retrieve them easily, since that's where I put them in my tailored jackets, but it's not a big deal. The buttoned throat latch adds a touch of class and function. There are contoured edges in front, similar to a tailored jacket, and the backside has a "tail" that comes down about halfway down one's rear. I suppose that does help keep your rear end a little warmer when the wind starts blowing outside. The inside has a contrasting tan colour, interestingly. One can fold down the standing collar if they want to expose a bit of it, but I don't think it was intended to be worn like a Harrington jacket and doesn't look especially great to me that way. Overall, a very well-made quilted vest that changed my preconceptions about them. It's made in Italy, hence the Cortina moniker, unlike the majority of CircleRock's products. The only other colour offered is black. Navy would probably be the best choice for everyone, both for what you can wear it with and what skin tones it looks good against. I hope they come out with other colours in the future, perhaps a forest green or dark brown or something.

There are, disappointingly, not as many features that make the High Road vests stand out.

I also got the High Road after a bit more waiting. I had no idea they were still sending it! The fabric is, of course, beautiful like everything Harris Tweed creates at their mills. The barleycorn weave has a great depth of colour making up the olive. (Even though I still think it looks like cool brown. Are my eyes just wrong or something?) The front and back yokes with swelled edges certainly look stylish with the fabric. Something was missing, though, and it came down to a few things. First of all, compared to the Cortina there is a lack of useful features, such as a throat latch. There are no inner pockets and only two outer hand warmer pockets. The plastic zippers also look incongruous with tweed. Finally, the straight fit and pretty much no shape otherwise looks a little basic for the price asked. The fit is actually closer to the chest than on the Cortina Nylon, but this also means not as much room for a sweater underneath. (I'm a 42" chest and wearing a size L.) Had they implemented a few more of the features from the Cortina Nylon range, I think it would hold up much better and be more worth the money. A brass zipper would look far smarter with tweed and not like it was taken from the lesser microfleece vests these are attempting to one-up. Additionally, there is a bit of a quality control issue on mine where the front yoke and bottom hem don't quite line up when zipped. It's only about 1/8 of an inch off, but it is noticeable. Perhaps others won't notice and I can have the zipper reattached by a local tailor. Part of that may have been the rush to get more Harris Tweed fabric due to the shortage and complete their inventory. However, I see the same issue in two product photos on the website. By comparison, it's not quite as high quality or rich in features as the Cortina Nylon, but it may be better for those who find the latter too outdoors-y in style. There are four other Harris Tweed fabrics including charcoal herringbone, navy herringbone (which looks more like petrol blue), brown/olive herringbone (which looks tan to me, dag nabbit), and olive mix windowpane. The last one actually looks olive to me. There are also two solid light flannel colours to choose from, charcoal and navy, for those who want a more basic look.

Somewhat misaligned zipper.

So, are these worth the price? I'm not sure. The Cortina Nylon is obviously my favourite, but it is still a quilted synthetic vest at the end of the day, even when made in Italy with a rakish design. However, it is very well-made, looks sophisticated, and has a fit that compliments the wearer. The High Road needs a bit of work to stand up next to it as well as a focus on quality control. The sizing is also somewhat limited on all vest styles right now, only going from M to XXL, or 40" to 47" chest. I think people outside this range would appreciate a few more sizes than that! All that said, I would still rather wear either of them any day over a fleece anything to the office. I also acknowledge that having things made in the USA or Italy will command a higher price than something made in an Asian country, so my sense of value versus price might be skewed here. (Please, audience, do tell me if so.) Additionally, I imagine there are other, ostensibly "luxury" brands who would ask far more for something like this and are rarely worth it. Gucci, for example, is asking a whopping $1,500 for a pair of sweatpants made in Italy...

Definitely support domestic or Italian craftsmanship and get them if you're okay with the price and these styles are your thing. CircleRock also has sales from time to time that might make the cost a little easier to justify. I'm finding both of them very useful in my casual wardrobe despite the issues mentioned earlier, especially now that I've moved and am experiencing Utah's fall season. Though Rick told me that they're year-round vests, I couldn't imagine wearing tweed or quilted nylon back in New Mexico's 100 degree heat, even sans sleeves. Then again, some buildings are overly air-conditioned in the summer. A High Road vest might make sense there.

At the end of the day, you're either going to really like this style or think it's representative of the decline of civilization. But I don't think I've seen a better version of this business casual look on the market anywhere else.

Both vests are pictured with Ratio Clothing Blue Campus Oxford shirt, J. Crew 1040 Athletic jeans, Ledbury Free Union Belt, and L.L.Bean 8" Bean Boots.

These products were sent to me, free of charge, for the purposes of evaluation and an honest review. Every attempt has been made to remain objective. Thanks again to CircleRock's Paul Grangaard and Rick Dow for their generosity.

Why should I wear a tailored jacket when it's warm out?

2019-07-12T06:00:00.000-04:00

It's now been summer for over two weeks in the northern hemisphere, so let's talk about something that's probably on many menswear aficionados' minds: How to look great when it's hot out.

Something that tends to differentiate menswear aficionados from most people is that they will find just about any excuse to wear a jacket or tie. The question for them isn't why, but why not? Well, here's the "why" if you really must know:

It democratizes un-ideal physiques, smoothing them out or making them look more powerful.
They help one look more put together and more appropriate for certain situations.
During the warmest times of year, they hide unsightly underarm perspiration on a shirt.

Keep in mind, unlined jackets with an open weave are quite wearable in warm weather and will add marginal bulk if worn with an open weave shirt. Look at linen, high twist wool, hopsack wool, or summer sports coat blends which may include silk, mohair, and so forth. Cotton seersucker is a popular fabric among the southern gentleman set, though I'd stick to solids rather than the stripes associated with it if wearing as a jacket alone. Cotton twill or poplin are also popular choices for how inexpensive and common they are. Twill is not as breathable, but it wrinkles less than other cotton and linen fabrics. It also tends to look perfectly at home with any casual trousers, including jeans and chinos. Linen and cotton will still present a more rumpled, less formal look no matter how well they're pressed and what weave they come in, so those seeking a fabric that wears well in the heat yet doesn't crease easily should avoid them. One may be better served by wool hopsack, high twist, tropical, or plain woven mohair blends if that is a concern.

A solid getup in this deconstructed cotton suit and casual linen tie.

Credit: Proper Cloth, www.propercloth.com

The other thing that can help, besides reducing or eliminating the lining and choosing a breathable fabric, is minimal construction. Getting a lighter and thinner construction on the chest and shoulders can further mitigate the effects of the heat. Completely unstructured cotton sports coats have been popular for well over a decade now, as they pair well with very casual clothing and are inexpensive to produce and buy. Even very casual clothiers and outdoors companies make them. These have no shoulder padding, no chest piece, and no interlining at all. Most of the time, though not always, they lack lining as well. Beware that getting something completely unstructured will not have the same benefits of enhancing a physique as your typical business suit. They are best reserved for fabrics that are a bit heavier and have some more drape. Cotton or linen twills and heavier high twist wool fabrics such as Fresco by J.J. Minnis look at home with this construction or rather lack thereof. A good compromise is to get something made with no shoulder pads but a light sleevehead and light chest canvas. This will still give your shoulders and chest a bit more "oomph" while maintaining a lot of comfort.

A more relaxed take on the summer suit from Pierce Brosnan.

Credit: The World is Not Enough, Eon Productions

Though not required, casual or sporty details harmonize perfectly with summer fabrics. Patch pockets instead of besom are the most obvious detail menswear nerds think of first. They are most often seen open, without a flap, but flapped versions exist. Some even have the opening slanted, similar to hacking pockets, for a jauntier touch. Flapped patch pockets can look a bit busy depending on one's taste. Some jackets will have the breast pocket done in the patch style as well. This is, again, a matter of preference and there's nothing wrong with having a welted breast pocket combined with lower patch pockets. Nevertheless, avoid doing this in reverse since it will look unbalanced. A welted breast pocket has the advantage of disguising the bulge from wearing a pocket square, a patch will show it more, so choose according to your priorities. Patch pockets aren't all that are available. Hacking (slanted) and ticket pockets also look good on sports coats and sports suits. Swelled edges further lend a relaxed look to a jacket. This stitching will usually appear 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch away from the edge of a lapel, pocket flap, or even vents, thus giving a "swelled" appearance. It's easily and almost always done by machine, so it will not look as formal as a handmade pick stitch at the edge, but that's part of the appeal. Finally, consider your choice of vent. Though double vents are the most popular and prevalent choice in ready-made suits now, the single vent remains the sportiest option and is still a perfectly valid choice.

The single breasted peak lapel style is at odds with the very casual patch pockets.

Credit: MyTailor, www.mytailor.com

Now, I personally don't care for peak lapels and a single breasted front combined with these other details, and especially not on cotton or linen, but your mileage may vary. I have yet to see a single breasted cotton or linen jacket, or one with swelled edges and patch pockets, that benefited from peak lapels since their more formal appearance can look at odds with everything else. However, if you have a little Jay Gatsby in you and want to do it anyway, go right ahead. Strangely, I have no issue with double breasted jackets in cotton or linen with these details, though I think they look best with a welted breast pocket and pick stitched edges. I can't quite explain why that works better in my mind, but a double breasted jacket does require peak lapels to look right. In any case, the more casual the fabric and details are, the more casual the trouser it will work with. Jeans and chinos, if well chosen in colour and fit, are fair game for a cotton twill, unconstructed, patch pocketed, swelled edge jacket. If you're wearing a sports coat which is a little more "dressed up" like the below example, it's best to wear proper trousers. Blue jeans or WWII khakis would never look right in this case.

Another stylish warm weather outfit from one of Pierce Brosnan's characters.

Credit: The Love Punch, Entertainment One

Of course, a lot of this assumes you have the access to and money for made-to-measure, bespoke, or even just really good made-to-order clothing. It's still useful to keep these things in mind when shopping for off-the-rack clothing. Keep the same tenets of fit and taste in mind that you normally would. You especially shouldn't get a tight fit here, because the cooling benefits of summer jackets are lost when air can't circulate properly. If ordering online, make sure they have a good return policy; especially in the case of outdoor clothiers like Lands' End, Orvis, and so forth who often make these jackets in alpha sizes (instead of numerical chest sizes), with working sleeve buttonholes, and with a shorter body length. Some time ago I ordered a stretch cotton twill "travel blazer" from Orvis that looked fantastic on the website but left a lot to be desired in person and could not be fixed with alterations. Luckily, I was able to get my money back.

Waistcoats are your prerogative, though unlike in the time of The Great Gatbsy, they are no longer required. Keep in mind that while they look good, they add another layer of fabric and thus more warmth. That said, three-piece suits and separate waistcoats remain a classic choice for summer weddings and other such events, mostly if it's your event.

Leonardo DiCaprio demonstrates a now-rare level of formality with linen suits.

Credit: The Great Gatsby (2013), Warner Bros. Pictures

Ties are optional with warm weather suits. Really, they are! As with wearing jeans and chinos with a summer jacket, they look best sans tie the more casual they are. Rustic looking ties, such as those made of woven linen and cotton, look great and can keep things from looking too stuffy if that's your goal. Don't forget knitted silk ties either, especially the ones made with a "crunchy" open knit. I'd avoid knitted cotton ties since they don't hold their shape as well and can appear, as GQ once put it, like a droopy old sock.

I won't touch upon the colour of jackets or suits too much, since other people have done it far better than me. Just keep it classic, tasteful, and make sure your accessories go with the colours you've chosen from neck to ankle. Natural, tan, and medium blue are all great choices to differentiate from your regular worsted business suits if desired. Of course, there's nothing wrong with a navy hopsack blazer with mother of pearl buttons either -- it goes with almost anything.

Don't forget the versatility of a navy blazer when it's hot out.

Credit: Black Lapel, www.blacklapel.com

Tan, brown, and burgundy leather will be the best footwear choices if wearing the archetypal earth-coloured summer suit. Suede dress shoes or dress boots are a summer classic. Suede bucks toe a good line between dressy and casual. I've even seen desert boots pulled off with a summer suit, which does make sense since they're unlined and unconstructed. Regardless, I'd use caution with them since the latter will look out of place with a tie or waistcoat.

I know that I'll make some enemies by saying this but never, under any circumstances, wear t-shirts or sneakers with a summer jacket. (Or with any tailored jackets at all.) You may think it looks "edgy" in fashion photos, but in reality you're going to look like a kid who petulantly decided they were too cool for a nice shirt and shoes. Not to mention, the lack of collar will leave dead skin cells, pigments, and oils all over the jacket collar, wearing it down and soiling it prematurely. Don't do it. Similarly, save the sandals and espadrilles for lounging around at the beach. Polo shirts can sometimes work within reason. Some people rock them with a casual summer suit, but short sleeved polos can make things look a bit incomplete when there's no cuff showing out the end of your jacket sleeves. Long sleeved polos, on the other hand, will wear warmer and by that point you may as well have worn a light open weave shirt -- voile and giro inglese are two pretty good options to start with.

He was much better dressed at the beginning of this article!

Credit: Proper Cloth, www.propercloth.com

With these things in mind, you're ready to look your best this summer without breaking a sweat. Well, okay, without sweating more than you need to.

How do you like to wear tailored clothing when it's warm out?

Review: Beckett Simonon Part Two -- Elliot Balmoral Boot

2019-06-24T11:38:00.002-04:00

Earlier this year Alena Cardona, Brand Relations Coordinator of Beckett Simonon, contacted me and asked if I was ready to do another review for them. Beckett Simonon is an online men's footwear company which reduces costs by selling directly in a made-to-order process which takes an average of 8 to 12 weeks. The reduced costs do not mean a reduction in quality, though, as they easily compete with any quality shoemaker in the $300+ range. Being satisfied with the Dean Oxford I received last time they reached out to me, I enthusiastically said yes. This time, I wished to review a pair of dress boots to gauge their quality level. I was offered a few different options that they could send me straight away without their usual made-to-order wait time, which is likely taken from the small inventory they made in each run for exchanges. I settled on one and it arrived within a couple weeks, just as with the Dean Oxford.

Originally I was sent the Lorenzo Boot, a derby/blucher style cap toe, in bordeaux. I needed more of this colour in my wardrobe and figured it would go with just about any suit, trouser, or chino. Perhaps even jeans. Unfortunately, when they arrived it turned out to be a size 12. A full size too large for me. Adena apologized for the mix up at the warehouse and I was able to exchange them, postage paid. We then settled on another style, the Elliot Balmoral Boot. Though it would be less flexible for casual attire, I'll admit some excitement here as I've wanted a pair of Balmoral boots since over a decade ago when my sartorial education began.

Credit: Gentleman's Gazette

Like the Lorenzo, they come with hard wearing rubber soles instead of leather. This makes them practical for light rain and snow, though the key word here is light. I'd put on a pair of Swims if you're expecting outright puddles and snow piles since they don't have a storm welt. But if you're brave, go right ahead. The original Balmoral boots (so-named after Balmoral Castle) worn by Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were waterproofed, so you also should have yours treated if those are your intentions.

I waited three months for the Elliot since they were made-to-order. This may not be for everyone, but they keep you updated with bi-weekly emails on the status of their product. In total, I received five emails from start to finish detailing where they were in the process and how their products were made. Quite informative, quite interesting. Along with that I received a booklet in the box giving much of the same information. The wait time helps keep their costs down since they don't have to carry a lot of additional inventory, besides the previously mentioned extras in case anyone needs to make an exchange. They range from $199 to $219 for shoes and boots. It's basically the same process that every mainstream shoemaker like Allen Edmonds, Alden, and so forth goes through each retail season, but specifically for you and anyone else who pre-orders the specific footwear. Now, if one needs rubber soled boots in time for winter it would probably be a good idea to order ahead. By signing up for their emails, you'll know as soon as they have new offerings available for pre-order.

As before, the packaging was pretty straightforward. There's an informational sticker inside the box top about how they were made. Again dust bags, extra laces, and footbeds to adjust the fit were provided. The boots looked pretty good apart from a small problem at the throat which I'll address later. The punch cap is attractive, as is the last which appears to be based on the ones they use for all their other oxfords. The bordeaux leather, while not burnished in any way, has a beautiful deep red colour that almost seems to change depending on the lighting. They came straight laced at the eyelets, but it appeared to be done for display using the Sawtooth method which is quick to do at a factory. I re-laced them using the Straight European method, which is more secure and doesn't mis-align the sides. The speed hooks, of course, can only be laced resembling the Criss Cross method but are going to be hidden under your trouser leg standing up anyway. Some people believe they do not belong on Balmoral boots (or any dress boot) regardless of that. I politely disagree, considering Balmoral boots from respected dress shoe manufacturers have had this feature for quite a while. However, some may take issue with them unrelated to their looks, which I'll explore in a bit.

Since the shaft and speed hook lacing are hidden when standing up, they are indistinguishable from any other punch cap oxford unless someone looks down at your footwear when sitting. (Even if they notice that you're wearing boots and pass comment on this fact, it makes for a good conversation starter. Tell them about the history of Balmoral boots.) A couple people I've talked to seem to think it's crass or vulgar to wear boots with tailored clothing and I cannot understand why. Personally, it feels pretty nice wearing them with a suit. My ankles are supported and the rubber soles feel just as solid as any double leather soles I've worn. In colder weather, dress boots also give you additional warmth at the ankle unlike dress shoes. Additionally, it's not as if you're wearing a pair of Timberlands with your finely tailored suit, but boots that are just as sleek as any fine dress shoes.

Unless you're Keanu Reeves, of course.

Credit: The Late Show with Stephen Colbert

The fit was great as last time, secure, and though they were stiff for the first couple wears (eight hour work days) they broke in well afterward. However, I do have a small problem with the right shoe. It tends to buckle slightly above the throat, which will not be seen by most people but is still a bugbear. Additionally, the tongue on this same one likes to slide over. Sometimes worse than other times, to the point where the laces will dig straight into my socks after an hour of wear. I'm not sure what's causing this issue. It could be solved by stitching the tongue into place on one side, such as is done on Allen Edmonds shoes. But this doesn't happen on the other boot, so that may not be the problem. I've never owned anything that had speed hooks, so it was a bit of an adjustment using them, but unless I lace tightly the knot has a tendency to fall out of the speed hooks after walking around some. Does anyone know of Balmoral boots that have eyelets at the top after the speed hooks? That could be one solution to this problem. This may be one unspoken reason why some believe they don't belong on dress boots.

The quality, notwithstanding the issues previously mentioned, is great as with last time. They are Blake-stitched, which is less labour intensive than Goodyear welting but will hold up well over time nonetheless. A Blake-stitch also makes for a sleeker sole profile than a Goodyear welt can ever have, even at its best. For example, the Allen Edmonds Carlyle that I own are just about the sleekest Goodyear welted shoes they carry, but the sole profile still looks a tad bulky in comparison to the rest of the shoe. The textured rubber soles grip pretty well, though I'd prefer a change to Dainite or Dainite-type soles. Those little grip studs can make all the difference sometimes and are designed to keep their tread for longer. Of course, that won't stop me or anyone else from resoling them with Dainite at B. Nelson when the time comes. As noted in my last review, I do wish they'd carry a greater range of sizes, at least including wides and narrows, since their products are made-to-order. This may be the only thing holding back some from buying.

Here's a video detailing the crafting process from their YouTube channel:

Despite the problems I had here, I'd recommend giving them a shot if Beckett Simonon re-issues them in the future. They're only $219, which is at least half of what most high quality shoemakers charge for dress boots. In fact, I think one would be satisfied with most any of their dress footwear. You are covered by a 12-month guarantee on defects in craftsmanship, so even if you have problems like mine and find them unacceptable, you would be taken care of by customer service.

Nouveau Vintage received material compensation from Beckett Simonon in exchange for this review. Despite this, I have made every effort to remain objective and consider the price versus quality and customer service. I encourage anyone to share their personal experiences in the comments whether or not it contradicts my own. Thanks to Adela Cardona once again for including me in Beckett Simonon's promotions.

Review: Bespoke JB Original Pocket Square

2019-05-16T00:36:00.000-04:00

Bespoke JB is a small business started a couple years ago by John Broughton when he was frustrated at how most linen and cotton handkerchiefs were too large to use as a neatly folded, low-profile pocket square. They also required a bit of guesswork to fold the right width and were of rather low quality fabric for the price. I've always suspected there's a higher-than-necessary markup on pocket squares from name brands, even considering many will use hand-stitched edges. After all, they're just a 12"-15" square of fabric.

To this end, John decided to create a pocket square size and shape that would make it easy to achieve the desirable, neatly-folded edge worn by such sartorial icons as James Bond. Whether you call it a square fold, TV fold, presidential fold, or straight fold, it's a look that's been pretty popular for over a decade now, in no small part inspired by Mad Men having its main character sport one, per fashions in the 1960s, and Daniel Craig ushering in its return to 007 the very next year. It makes sense for it to be popular again, since the minimalist trends of the late 2000s to present mirror those of the 1960s.

Other projects inspired by the fictional spy include patterns for English spread collars and cocktail cuffs, which he is looking at offering to the public. These came about as the result of taking a British shirtmaking course; one could bring them to their seamstresses and tailors or sew it themselves. I had asked him about replacing collars and cuffs on some older shirts of mine that were beginning to show a lot of wear in those places. However, he admitted the work necessary to do so was getting a little too much, since providing pocket squares with great customer service was already enough of a time sink!

Folded and ready to go.

He also revealed a bit of movie magic to me in our conversation: The reason Bond's pocket squares appear so neatly folded consistently in Spectre was because they weren't actually pocket squares, just edges of cloth sewn to a stiff burlap insert or even sewn into the pocket itself. I'd first heard about this trick watching his interview with David Zaritsky of The Bond Experience, where he said that some movies use a cardboard insert with a sewn edge of fabric. The burlap sounds more flexible for stunts and a little less low-class! Either way, it makes me feel better that my pocket squares almost never stayed folded as perfectly. Especially the ones in Quantum of Solace, which follow the slant of the breast pockets so well that they must have been faked too. (Aside from when he removes it after getting speckled with blood.)

Unfolded.

John has recently debuted a new product, the "002". The name not only avoids lawsuits from EON, but refers to the fact that it only requires two folds to achieve -- once down the middle vertically, once down the middle horizontally. This is meant exclusively for square folds, unlike the original which is wide enough to also be puffed. Once I am able to obtain a set of these, I'll review it here as well.

The pocket square he sent me was of 100% fine cotton broadcloth in white. Also available is linen and 140s Sea Island cotton (which is the preferred grade of cotton for both James Bond and his creator, Ian Fleming). In my experience, broadcloth makes for a rather crisp looking pocket square and isn't practical for puff folds. Linen or linen/cotton blend is probably the way to go if seeking a somewhat softer look or more versatility in how one uses their pocket square. I personally prefer the irregular look of linen with its slubbed texture, since it makes a simple solid pocket square look more interesting up close. Silk is not available due to the special nature of these pocket squares. While you can use the original for puff folds, its primary duty is to make attractive square folds that work in most breast pockets. Silk pocket squares should not be used for square (or angled) folds since they will never stay in place very well.

Nice presentation out of the envelope.

The pocket square comes attractively packaged in a small card, pre-folded and ready to go. The folds weren't quite as perfectly lined up as I wanted. Being a perfectionist, I gave it a bit of a steam press and folded it in thirds, then half, again. Though it's based on an average of breast pocket depths and widths, it's just that: An average. You may still need to adjust it slightly to fit, as I did with my jackets. It was still pretty easy to use. I was able to insert it into my breast pockets without the use of a shoe horn, though I still use that old trick sometimes to avoid creasing the fabric along the top. Only one of my suits gave me any particular trouble with sticking out too much from the breast pocket, and this could be rectified by pressing the bottom until it's the right length. It's worth noting that I typically don't fold my squares (on average 12" wide) the way these are meant to be folded, with the folded edge showing along the breast pocket. I usually get mine to a size where the folded edge is facing off to the left, just because I find it easier to adjust. Here, since it is sized pretty well for a breast pocket, that is not necessary. But I don't think it would be desirable either since the edges are merely serged -- not rolled or folded in. This also limits how one could puff it since showing the corners, as some like to do when puffing their pocket squares, might look a bit off. I think these pocket squares would look like more of a premium product if John could finish the edges a little more neatly. It's not a deal breaker, though, and could make them less affordable than they are. (They currently start at $12.00 each and go up to $20.00 for the Sea Island version.)

A satisfying, perfectly folded pocket square.

Overall, I give good marks to this product. It's affordable, does the job well, and fills an untapped market niche for people who want an easy way to achieve the folded pocket square... well, square look. As mentioned earlier, I would like it even more if it had hand rolled, hand stitched folded, or at least machine stitched folded edges. But considering I wear it more often than any of my other white pocket squares right now, I think that speaks for itself.

Nouveau Vintage was provided product free of charge in exchange for a review. Every consideration, including full retail price versus quality and origin, has been made for the sake of fairness.

Update: New Wine Direction Cancelled, Back to Boring Menswear

2019-04-02T10:48:00.002-04:00

From the Editor:

Yesterday, Jovan revealed his plans to focus on fine wines on this blog from now on. He was quite excited about it. Unfortunately, his wife got quite angry when he went out and bought $3000 of New Mexico wine and they couldn't pay their mortgage this month, so he was forced to go and return it. (Which, as you might know, is a tricky proposition with alcohol.)

She also insisted that the very idea that they ever watched sports, drank beer together, or even set foot into Buffalo Wild Wings was a contemptuous lie fabricated to capitalize on a certain important holiday and threatened to divorce him. He reminded her that this entire scenario was, of course, fabricated in the first place. After some time, Jovan finally came back to the light and realized that tailored clothing was his true passion after all.

April Fools.

A New Focus On Quality

2019-04-01T13:11:00.002-04:00

It's become apparent to me that my blog's title doesn't really encompass what I do here since I don't wear much vintage clothing anymore, plus my style isn't really in vogue right now. Nobody cares about proper tailored clothing fit, nor do they want to dress like me which, as someone said a while ago, is so boring my wife wants to leave me when we're seen together in public. It also gets in the way during our weekly pilgrimage to Buffalo Wild Wings to slam back brewskis, nosh on wings, and enjoy the refined American sports of football, basketball, and baseball. All that wing sauce sure can be a hassle to clean out of fine ties and shirts, so I'll probably just wear my team jerseys from now on. They're machine washable and tumble dryer friendly. But I digress. My changing style is not the main point here.

I've decided that Nouveau Vintage shall now cover actual vintage. That is, fine wines. I understand that I only have beginner's knowledge of it, but my rich father-in-law has taught me well so far. Besides, I only had beginner's knowledge of tailored clothing when I started this blog almost 12 years ago, and look where it got me now! (With barely any readers. But I digress.)

Get hyped for my new direction tomorrow, where I will cover New Mexico's vineyards starting with Casa Rondena. It sounds fancy, doesn't it? I can't wait to show all my readers the fine wines my state has to offer!

Review: Boardroom Socks -- Merino Wool Over the Calf

2019-03-14T14:50:00.005-04:00

Boardroom Socks appeared in my search for Merino wool over the calf socks recently and I decided to take a look at their website. They're a family-owned company whose history spans 175 years, still "Knit in the USA" after all this time. It's the tagline, after all. Boardroom Socks was formed in 2010 in order to give customers direct access to what they make in North Carolina and a fair price for it. On top of that, they have a pretty decent selection of colours and patterns that isn't seen too often in Merino wool over the calf.

Note how the dotted socks are a bit shorter.

I reached out to Nathan James, President of Boardroom Socks, to ask about just how they were able to offer such good value, and made in the USA at that. He told me that the secret was their long-lasting relationships with suppliers, which give them the ability to provide cotton and wool socks to the public at an affordable price even as yarn prices for both have gone up in the last few years.

These snazzy little information and care instruction cards come with each pair of socks.

After telling him my fabric and size preferences, Nathan was kind enough to send a few pairs of Merino Wool Over the Calf in two different solid colours and one pattern for me to evaluate. They go for just under $15 a pair for solids, patterns $18. I appreciated the minimal packaging used, just a clear plastic bag, a card of information, and a sheet of tissue between the socks inside a flexible plastic shipping sleeve. There were no large, wasteful shipping boxes with a lot of fancy nonsense thrown in. At times, with all the inner boxes, outer boxes, excessive tissue paper, and other bits and baubles your internet purchases might remind you of this scene between Alan Rickman (may he rest in peace) and Rowan Atkinson.

Over the period of the next month and half, I wore, wash, and wore them again. As I tend to do now, I experimented with both tumble drying and hang drying. The results seemed about even. Oddly, there was noticeable shrinkage in length on the charcoal with pink dots. I noticed no significant length difference on the solid ribbed knits in charcoal and black, but those who wish their socks to last longer may want to hang dry them anyway. I also prefer to use cool water since it's easier on fine fabrics (and more eco-friendly) rather than warm as indicated in the care instructions, but your mileage may vary. Boardroom Socks does not necessarily endorse my own washing instructions, so please don't take them as gospel. (Or blame me if something goes wrong.)

The socks, being 67% Merino wool, 30% nylon, and 3% Spandex are quite comfortable like my other socks of similar composition. However, those other socks cost nearly twice what these do. The ribbed socks in charcoal and black seemed to have the best fit. That is not to say that the flat knit charcoal with pink dots is bad. They just feel a bit looser below the calf for some reason, in addition to the somewhat shorter length after washing and drying. I'm not certain if the type of knit has an impact on those aspects.

The logo is just barely holding on after several washes! But who's looking at the bottom of your socks anyway?

All three pairs of socks have performed well over the month and change I've had them and there are no serious complaints from me. They do not wear out too fast or feel scratchy at all. As with most over the calf socks, they stay up all day and require no fussing. If I were to nitpick anything besides the shrinkage on the aforementioned pattern, it's that the black ribbed knit socks -- or maybe just the ones I received -- have somewhat rough-looking edges at the top elastic. The charcoal did not. Unless you wear skirts, kilts, or schoolboy shorts this isn't really going to be an issue. Even if you do (no judgement here), I doubt anyone would notice or care. Now if you're still a cotton or mid calf sock purist, they carry them in spades and I doubt you'd be disappointed based on my experience with these. However, I have not tried either of those varieties yet. I will add a new review if I do.

Rough-looking ribbed top. Is it just me?

Boardroom Socks is a pretty gosh dang good value and a fine way to build up your sock rotation. I'd really like to see them add argyles into their collection at some point. In spite of their conservative-sounding name, I think one will find something they like even if they're not required to wear tailored clothing and dress shoes, but want to.

Nouveau Vintage was provided product free of charge in exchange for a review. Every consideration, including full retail price versus quality and origin, has been made for the sake of fairness.

Mission: Impossible - Fallout -- Henry Cavill's Brown Suit

2019-02-14T00:00:00.000-05:00

It's worth appreciating tailoring when it's done well for bodies outside of the mainstream. Large and/or muscular men are not fashionable at the moment and there are barely any "athletic fits" offered for ready-made suits in the 2010s. The best solution is made to measure or bespoke for these body types. In my experience, it's actually harder to fit for muscular bodies rather than portly ones. So I admired what was achieved for Henry Cavill in Mission: Impossible - Fallout. The clothing not only fit him, it worked for his character by not standing out too much.

Spoilers ahead.

Henry Cavill portrays a CIA operative, August Walker, opposite Ethan Hunt (Tom Cruise) of the IMF as both track down members of The Apostles, a splinter group of The Syndicate from the previous movie. Unfortunately for Hunt, Walker has managed to kill every single lead. One would not assume he is a trigger-happy gunman upon first glance. While imposing in height and build, Walker looks like just another stern, by-the-book government man. He even impatiently checks his watch while following the Director of the CIA, Erica Sloane (Angela Basset). He's not terribly stylish in what he wears. However, these deliberate wardrobe choices hint at his hidden identity.

Even though other people are wearing suits, Walker still manages to look like the fish out of water.

After performing a HALO jump, mostly unconscious, he takes off the HALO gear and puts on the same clothing he wore before going into the plane. Miraculously, his suit and shirt as well as Hunt's are completely unwrinkled despite being packed up so small! Did they find a Jiffy Steamer where they changed, or is this just top-notch CIA/IMF fabric technology? Jokes aside, Walker looks somewhat out of place and stuffy next to all the other partygoers at a French rave, not only wearing a drab suit and tie but carrying a briefcase (which turns out to contain mission-critical equipment). Hunt, meanwhile, dresses more appropriately to blend in and pose as a criminal with an open collared white shirt and stylish single button blue suit. Other attendees may be wearing suits and ties, but appear to be having more fun with it than Walker is. He could have taken off his tie, but this is probably part of his misdirection into having Hunt believe he is nothing but a blunt instrument. Now, much has been made about how Cavill appears to grow a beard (and a breast pocket!) in a few frames of film when the trailer first released. In the film proper they are always there, just not as visible in the trailer due to the compression used for streaming media and the lighting. Additionally, the way Cavill "reloads" his fists -- pulling the shirt taut against his chest -- makes the breast pocket not as visible for those few frames. So, mystery solved.

Two different styles of "dressing up". Hunt has the upper hand in looking like he fits in.

The cool toned, medium brown suit -- which can also be described as charcoal brown -- has a button two front, double vents, and flat front trousers with belt loops. The fabric appears to be a worsted wool twill. Unlike some of the tailored clothing he wears on the red carpet, this suit fits Cavill in proportion to his build and does not fight against it, especially at his deltoids. It is perhaps even a bit loose by today's standards. This suit still looks like it belongs in 2018 due to the gorge height and button stance, but it's nothing particularly out of the ordinary when compared to the most conservative offerings from Brooks Brothers and Hart Schaffner Marx currently. In the updated American style, it has soft shoulders with minimal roping. The notch lapels, horizontal flap pockets, and straight breast pocket are what one would see on any other American business suit today. This is directly in contrast to Ethan Hunt, who seems to enjoy dressing nicely and spices up his suits by choosing peak lapels and slanted, jetted pockets. The sleeves are unfortunately too long for his shirt cuffs to show as is traditional. Soon after his jacket is whipped off to engage in fisticuffs with their target, it becomes unwearable due to covering up... well... a lot of bodily fluid.

Note the similarity in their ties and shirts.

With the suit, Walker wears a light grey, medium spread collar shirt with rounded barrel cuffs, the latter of which his cumbersome black watch does not fit into. The fabric looks to be end-on-end poplin, made up of medium grey and white yarns to give a more interesting appearance up close. The shirt has a breast pocket and, for today, a somewhat relaxed fit though it certainly does not look like a tent. It is likely off the rack with alterations or meant to look that way. The black and grey "static" print tie is knotted in a half-Windsor. Its classic width harmonizes with the moderate-sized jacket lapels and both work well on his build. The collar points could use a little more spread and length to meet the lapels and match Cavill's strong jaw, but it does help the shirt further look not-so-special. The colour of the shirt is not traditional, generally whites and pastels are the best choice for wearing with a tie as it helps direct the eye upward to the wearer's face. However, dark shirts are often worn with ties by villains in order to visually convey the morality they occupy. This grey shirt works in a similar way. It's noteworthy that Hunt wears a dark grey shirt in the opening of the film while posing as a black market dealer. Also noteworthy, but not obvious on first viewing, is that the decoy "John Lark" he fights in the bathroom of the rave in Paris is wearing a similarly coloured shirt and the same tie as Walker! Finishing off the look, he wears dark brown blucher cap toe shoes and a matching dark brown belt with a silver square buckle. Though he clearly isn't as interested in fashion as Hunt, at least he knows what colour shoes to pair with what colour suit.

One of the only good looks we get at the shoes.

He is later seen conferring with Director Sloane while in a dark tan sports coat, taupe chinos, and a medium brown fly fronted raincoat. With it he wears a light blue shirt in the same style as he wore previously and a dark grey tie with a small check pattern. This establishes August Walker's colour scheme, which is followed to the conclusion of the movie even as he's wearing more casual and functional clothing. Walker's earth toned wardrobe could be seen as a metaphor for the fact that he doesn't just operate in shades of grey, he goes outside of them in trying to radically destabilize the power dynamics of the world. Most government bureaucrats, as presented in movies, wear dark business colours such as charcoal and navy as their base. Both IMF Secretary Alan Hunley (Alec Baldwin) and Sloane are prime examples. By contrasting their wardrobes against his in such a striking way, they look like part of the system which Walker resents and has worked within to disrupt.

Walker meets with Sloane in Paris, again wearing earth tones.

Screencaps taken by henry-cavill.net. Promotional images by Paramount -- used in this post under fair use for the purposes of education, comment and critique, consistent with 17 USC §107.