New York Food Journal

Pasta with Ramps, Pea Shoots, and Poached Eggs

2014-05-14T10:00:00.000-04:00

An early sign that Spring is here is the arrival of pea shoots in New York's farmers markets. The delicate greens have such a wonderful fresh taste with a hint of sweetness; and suddenly the dull salads of winter have new life.

Next to arrive are the ramps, the prized young wild leeks that are available only for a short time in Spring. Their taste resembles a cross between garlic and scallion, with leaves that are mild enough to be eaten raw when chopped up into a salad.

This year I incorporated both of those Spring staples in a simple pasta. I sauteed the more potent bulbs and stems of the ramps, letting the ramp leaves and pea shoots cook only with the steam heat of the pasta. Some good parmigiano reggiano and a runny poached egg formed a delicate sauce, letting the fresh taste of Spring produce shine through.

Pasta with Ramps, Pea Shoots, and Poached Egg

1/2 pound pasta shapes
A large handful of pea shoots
1/4 pound ramps
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided
2 eggs
Parmesan cheese, to taste (preferably parmigiano reggiano)
1 tablespoon white vinegar

1. Bring a pot of water to boil for the pasta.

2. Meanwhile, separate the leaves of the ramps from the stems and set them aside. Thinly slice the bulbs and coarsely chop the stems. Slice the leaves into 1-inch pieces, and place them in a bowl large enough to hold the pasta. Reserve a small handful of pea shoots for later and toss the rest into the bowl.

3. Heat a small skillet over medium heat. When it is hot, add a tablespoon of olive oil with the bulbs and stems of the ramps. Season with salt and pepper and saute until the bulbs have softened, about 5 minutes. When they are done, add them to the bowl.

4. When the water has boiled, season it generously with salt and add the pasta. Cook until the pasta is al dente, keeping in mind that it will continue cooking a bit in its own steam after it is removed from the water. When the pasta is done, transfer it to the bowl with the greens, reserving the pasta water. After the pasta is removed, bring the water back to a gentle simmer.

5. Grate the parmesan into the pasta and drizzle on the remaining olive oil. Toss thoroughly to combine, letting the greens wilt from the heat of the pasta. Divide the pasta into warmed bowls for serving.

6. Add the vinegar to the simmering pasta water. Crack an egg into a small bowl and slide it into the water. When it has come together and the whites have just set (about 2 minutes), remove it carefully with a slotted spoon. Rinse it gently to remove the vinegar taste, dry it slightly by setting the spoon on a paper towel, and place the egg gently on top of the pasta. Repeat with the other egg.

7. Sprinkle each bowl with the reserved pea shoots and top with some freshly-ground black pepper. Serve at once.

Total time: 30 minutes
Makes 2 servings

The Foods of Tulum Mexico Part IV: Beach Front Dining

2014-05-03T10:11:00.002-04:00

El Pez's shrimp tacos topped with a sweet and spicy mango salsa, with a streak of habanero sauce

I recently embarked on a relaxing and flavorful vacation to Tulum in Mexico. Here is the fourth entry in our Beyond the Five Boroughs feature on Tulum: a review of the excellent food you can enjoy while relaxing on the beach. The first post explored Tulum's surprisingly authentic Italian restaurants, while the second one covered Mexican street food, and the third one covered Hartwood, Tulum's best reataurant. Later posts will explore Tulum's many other fine dining establishments.

Before going to many of the fine dining restaurants flanking Tulum's beach road or exploring the local bites in town, I did what most weary travelers do when arriving in Tulum: head for the beach.

Unlike other areas in the Riveria Maya (cough, Cancun), there are no built up beach front high rises to ruin the atmosphere, only small, eco-friendly boutique hotels, that seamlessly blend in with the environment.

Relaxation began immediately.

The ceviche mixto at El Pez

Until I got hungry. Fortunately, the restaurant at El Pez, where we were staying, quickly brought out superb shrimp tacos topped with a sweet and spicy mango salsa, and with a streak of habanero sauce on the side. We also enjoyed a delectable mixed seafood ceviche, with plentiful fresh shrimp, fish, and octopus mixed with citrus, corn, avocado and chilis, and served with homemade tortilla chips.

Ceviche is the Central and South American version of Italian crudo: raw fish cured in citrus and spiced with chilis (though the shrimp and octopus were fully cooked). It's even better when combined with creamy avocado and paired with something crunchy, like the homemade tortilla chips.

Fish ceviche with tomatillo sauce at La Zebra

Marinated steak tacos

The most difficult question we encountered during the trip was which beach to go to. After enjoying the El Pez beach one day, on another day, after an agonizing decision-making process, we decided to check out La Zebra, the sister hotel of El Pez, and located a short drive down the beach road.

There we enjoyed fish ceviche while camped out on their restaurant's beach-front terrace. The crunchiness was provided by a tostada that served to cradle the delicate fish, which was also topped with a tomatillo salsa.

While at La Zebra, we also sampled some shrimp and octopus tacos in a warm soft tortilla, as well as habanero-marinated beef tacos with pickled onions and a side of guacamole. All washed down with some cold lagers, of course. Beer and tacos always taste better while looking at the ocean.

Fried steak, papaya salad, and coconut rice at Mezzanine

Shrimp sate with duo of dipping sauces

There wasn't just great beach-side Mexican food in Tulum either. A trip to the third beach-front sister hotel to La Zebra and El Pez, called Mezzanine, allowed us to enjoy Thai food while perched on a cliff with a breathtaking view of the beach. (Hence the name). Hammocks were set up along the cliff for an obligatory post-lunch nap while looking at the waves.

We weren't entirely sure what to make of a Thai restaurant in Mexico, but this one was highly regarded (and, apparently, brought in TV personality Dim Geefay to consult on the menu). An inventive, if disjointed dish, of coconut rice, alongside green papaya salad, alongside fried marinated skirt steak turned out to be exactly what we wanted. Each component was great by itself, and actually made use of local ingredients, even if the dish didn't fit in together.

We also enjoyed some charcoal grilled garlic-marinated shrimp skewers with a lime-cilantro sauce and an (unnecessary) sticky sweet-spicy sauce. For dessert try the banana spring rolls.

All three restaurants are located along the beach road and are attached to hotels. Check out the map below for (approximate) locations.

Porterhouse in a Fine Dining Setting at Angus Club Steakhouse

2014-04-30T12:42:00.000-04:00

A meal at Angus Club: thick-cut poterhouse steak, hash browns, mashed potatoes, creamed spinach, and peas & onions.

"So do you just drop a giant porterhouse on the table?"

I was in the lower level of the new Angus Club Steakhouse, where co-owner Margent Maslinka was giving us a tour. We had stopped at the Chef's Room, a beautiful and intimate private dining space for ten with a custom-made round oak table and imported leather chairs. It looked like the setting for an elaborate fine dining meal.

"Pretty much," he said, grinning.

The first-floor dining room (photo courtesy of Angus Club)

For me, the scene perfectly captured the Angus Club concept. The setting has an intimate fine-dining feel to it: the tables are spaced apart, the service is polished, and the the decor is elegant and sophisticated. One might expect to be served a parade of dainty high-end dishes.

Instead, Executive Chef Edward Avduli not-so-daintily serves up massive porterhouse steaks on sizzling-hot platters, ample dishes of buttery hash browns and classic steakhouse creamed spinach.

The result is a restaurant that, in my view, should be more appealing than most of its peers, both to a diner looking for a special meal and to the Midtown business community, which I expect will make up much of its clientele. It has the chops to impress the steak-lover (excuse the pun) and the elegance suitable to entertaining clients or a date.

Giant slabs of Canadian bacon, soft enough to cut with a butter knife

When it comes to food, the appetizers include all your steakhouse favorites: jumbo shrimp cocktail, beefsteak tomatoes with onions, Caesar salad, steak tartare, fresh oysters, and an iceberg wedge with blue cheese and lardons.

Fried calamari with romesco

The obligatory giant slabs of Canadian bacon arrived, two slabs to a plate. They were tender and salty, bacon-y and delicious, with a good deep-pink color and charred diagonal grill marks. They were easily cut with a butter knife. I would order them every time.

The other appetizer highlight was the fried calamari, which was tender and crisp, not at all chewy, and fried to a nice golden brown. It was served on a giant platter with a few lemon wedges and some romesco sauce. A little heavy as a prelude to a giant steak, perhaps, but with a crowd I'd drop an order or two on the table. It wouldn't be bad as a bar snack over a few glasses of wine after work, either.

Tuna tartare

A dish of yellowfin tuna tartare was confusing to me. The tartare itself had a French style, incorporating some briny capers, but it was accompanied by an Asian-style wasabi sauce that overwhelmed the more subtle taste of the fish. It was served with toasts that were too substantial to make an effective vessel for such a delicate treat and would have been better replaced with a crisp flatbread; something to serve as a vehicle without adding any weight.

Maslinka had not been planning to serve us the steak-for-two, but in our pre-meal banter we had agreed that the porterhouse is the true test of a great steakhouse. When small saucers were placed upside down on the table for tilting platters, I knew he had changed his mind, and that good things were in store.

Porterhouse Steak for Two

The steak was a thing of beauty: a great crust on the outside, rare and juicy on the inside. The T-shaped bone separated the plump fillet mignon on the one side from the long thickly-sliced sirloin on the other. The platter came out screaming hot, as it should be, to maintain the steak at a good temperature throughout the meal.

Classic buttery hash browns

Maslinka proudly explained that the restaurant's USDA prime black angus beef is dry aged in-house for 30-35 days, which creates a beautiful marbling and an intensified flavor. I believed him.

Accompaniments arrived. The classic steakhouse hash browns were buttery and delicious, with a crisp sear on one side and perhaps a bit too much salt (something I did not think was possible ). A side dish of peas and onions was a surprising highlight: it was tangy, savory and sweet. Creamed spinach was nice and smooth, and although we were told there was no actual cream, I am pretty sure they just substituted butter. Why not.

Coconut tiramisu

A giant fillet of seared tuna arrived looking good and plump, like a steak. The fish quality was great, but the crust was very peppery and it had the same strong wasabi sauce that accompanied the tartare earlier in the meal. Next to it was a fillet mignon served by itself, struggling to compete with the porterhouse for attention but ultimately coming out as the crowd favorite of the night. It was tender and juicy with a wonderful crust on the outside and just the right amount of seasoning.

Desserts were your standard steakhouse fare: chocolate cake, cheesecake, creme brulee, key lime pie. All were competent and tasty but not particularly interesting. The standout was a coconut tiramisu, which was light and moist and flavorful. That would be my pick if somehow you have any room left after the steak.

Angus Club Steakhouse
135 East 55th Street
Tel. (212) 588-1585
http://www.angusclubsteakhouse.com/

Disclaimer: My meal was paid-for as part of an organized press dinner. The opinions expressed in this review are my own. No restaurant is ever promised a positive review.

Burnt Eggplant & Moghrabieh Soup

2014-04-24T17:06:00.002-04:00

We have long taken advantage of Atlantic Avenue's plentiful collection of Middle Eastern shops for our recipes. That is why we were delighted to finally start making recipes from the critically acclaimed cookbook, Jerusalem.

There is no vegetable more prevalent in great Middle Eastern cooking than the eggplant (make our smoky baba ghanoush and you'll understand why). And there is no better accompanying grain than moghrabieh. Moghra-wha? Perhaps deriving its name from Maghreb, the Arab region in North Africa, moghrabieh is extra large couscous. It provides great heftiness to the smoky eggplant soup base.

The key, just like we did with our baba ghanoush, is to burn the eggplants directly on an open fire. Charcoal is best, but you can do it easily right on the stove top (or, less messily, in the broiler). This dish can versatilely serve as an appetizer to any Middle Eastern meal or as a meal all to itself.

Burnt Eggplant & Moghrabieh Soup

5 small eggplants (about 2 1/2 pounds)
Sunflower or other neutral cooking oil
1 medium yellow onion, sliced
1 tbsp freshly ground cumin seeds or ground cumin
1 1/2 tsp tomato paste
2 large tomatoes, diced
1 1/2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 2/3 cups water
4 cloves garlic, crushed
2 1/2 tsp sugar
2 tbsp lemon juice
1/2 cup moghrabieh or giant cous cous
2 tbsp shredded basil

1. Burn three of the eggplants. If you have a charcoal grill, poke a few holes in each eggplant with a fork and place them directly on glowing charcoal. Or to do it inside, carefully line the base of a gas burner with tin foil, leaving only the burners exposed. After poking a few holes in each eggplant place them directly on the burner for about 7 minutes per side, until the skin is black and flaky. (Alternatively, broil the eggplants close to the flame; it's almost as good, and less messy).

2. Cut the remaining eggplants into 1/2-2/3 inch pieces. Heat 2/3 cup of oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. When hot, add the eggplants and fry for 10-15 minutes, stirring often, until the eggplants are colored on all sides. Remove the eggplants, place in a colander to drain, and sprinkle generously with salt.

3. Make sure you have about 1 tablespoon of oil left in the pan (add more if you don't), then add the sliced onions and ground cumin. Saute for about 7 minutes, stirring often. Add the tomato paste and cook another minute before adding the diced tomatoes, stock, water, garlic, sugar, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Gently simmer for 15 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, bring a small pot or saucepan of salted water to boil and add the moghrabieh. Cook until al dente, about 12-18 minutes, depending on the brand. Drain and rinse with cold water to remove excess starchiness.

4. When they have cooled slightly, remove the flaky skins from the burnt eggplants and place the eggplant flesh into the soup. Blend smooth with a handheld blender. Add the moghrabieh and fried eggplant and simmer for another 2 minutes, reserving some for garnish. Taste and adjust seasoning. Ladle into 4 bowls and serve hot with the reserved moghrabieh and fried eggplant on top, and garnished with the shredded basil.

Total time: 45 minutes
Makes 4 servings

Za'atar-Crusted Salmon with Tzatziki

2014-04-09T10:26:00.000-04:00

A trip to the Middle Eastern stores on Brooklyn's Atlantic Avenue yielded a large bag of za'atar, a traditional spice blend of thyme, sesame seeds, salt, and sumac. Sumac is an essential ingredient in Middle-Eastern cooking with a bright red color and a mild fruity-tart flavor, which perfectly matches the lemony undertones of the thyme. The sesame seeds add a nice earthiness and crunch.

Za'atar is an extremely versatile ingredient with many culinary uses, like sprinkling on vegetables and dips, seasoning soups, baking onto pita breads, and roasting with chicken. With so much built-in flavor, it makes a great secret weapon for weeknight meals.

Paired with salmon, the za'atar forms a crust that locks in the juices of the fish and gives it that perfect crispy exterior. The seasoning nicely compliments the salmon's flavor without overpowering it. I serve it with a garlicky tzatziki sauce and some extra fresh dill on top.

Za'atar-Crusted Salmon with Tzatziki

For the Salmon:
1/4 cup za'atar
2 6-ounce salmon fillets
1 tablespoon canola oil

For the Tzatziki:
1/2 medium cucumber
2 garlic cloves
A small handful of dill
1 cup Greek yogurt

1. Make the tzatziki: Grate or finely chop the cucumber. Finely mince the garlic and roughly chop the dill. Mix together the Greek yogurt, cucumber, garlic, and dill (reserving some dill for garnish) with some salt and pepper. Set aside.

2. Heat a large nonstick pan over medium heat. Meanwhile, spread out the za'atar on a plate. Pat the salmon fillets nice and dry with paper towels and press them into the za'atar, coating both sides thoroughly.

3. When the pan is hot, add the canola oil and place the salmon in the pan skin-side down. It should sizzle. Cook the salmon, turning once, until it is done (about five minutes per side, depending on thickness). Remove the salmon to a plate and top with the tzatziki and remaining dill.

Total time: 25 minutes
Makes 2 servings

The Foods of Tulum Mexico Part III: Primal Fine Dining at Hartwood, Tulum's Best Restaurant

2014-04-01T11:20:00.000-04:00

Hartwood house speciality - costillas al agave (ribs with a sticky agave barbecue sauce)

I recently embarked on a relaxing and flavorful vacation to Tulum in Mexico. Here is the third entry in our Beyond the Five Boroughs feature on Tulum: a review of Hartwood, Tulum's best and most critically acclaimed restaurant. The first post explored Tulum's surprisingly authentic Italian restaurants, while the second one covered Mexican street food. Later posts will explore beach front dining and Tulum's many other fine dining establishments.

Setting up for dinner service

As it turns out, the best restaurant on my escape from New York was owned by two New Yorkers. The chef, Eric Werner, is formerly of Peasant and Brooklyn's Vinegar Hill House. Werner's wife, Mya Henry, runs the front of the house.

The daily changing menu board (prices in pesos!)

At Hartwood, Werner has created what could only be described as primal fine dining. All of the dishes are cooked in either the massive, roaring 900-degree wood fire oven in the center of the open kitchen, or in a nearby 600-degree grill. (The prep work is done with knives and a blender – powered by a small generator.)

The primal, bold flavors from wood fire at high heat make the dishes seem like they've been made for generations in the Mayan riviera. Contributing to the primative experience, the wooden tables in the open air dining area are lit only with small twinkling oil lamps, creating a transporting feel.

The primal feel – and taste – is further enhanced by the use of large portioned, unbutchered proteins, and whole fish, vegetables, and fruit. Everything would be recognizable to our ancestors; it's just so much better.

The dishes aren't exactly Mexican, but do make exquisite use of local ingredients, as a recent glowing New York Times profile described.

The whole snapper, stuffed with basil, orange, and plenty of sea salt

Like at other restaurants in Tulum, the food menu is written on a freestanding wooden board that is brought around to each table by the waiter. While you wait, order from Hartwood's impressive collection of cocktails, all made with squeezed fresh juices and infused spirits.

Keeping up with the Brooklyn connection, the drinks are served in mason jars. The best was a pineapple habanero margarita with a powerful, sweet pineapple flavor followed by a strong hit of spice and tequila. The chili salt made it even spicier.

Hartwood prides itself on its daily caught fish, going so far as to include a humorous photo montage of various staff members holding fresh-caught fish on its website. Naturally, when we saw the mahi mahi ceviche at the top of that night's daily changing menu, we had to order it.

The beautiful dish had large pieces of roughly cut mahi mahi with paper thin pickled cucumbers, radishes, and jalapeños in a just ever so slightly too acidic broth. The bright dish nevertheless showcased the abundance of the Yucatan – and some impressive knife work.

Mahi mahi ceviche

Next came the ribs (costillas al agave), which our waitress told us was the house specialty – and for good reason! These were quite possibly the best ribs I've ever had.

An impressive amount of tender meat with a sweet agave barbecue glaze sat atop just two long bones. The glaze clung and permeated the meat without it being sticky or heavy handed. A side of pickled jalapeños provided some heat, and a crunchy crackling on top was, well, a delicious crunchy crackling. A completely unnecessary cabbage slaw rounded out the dish but failed to detract from the perfect piece of meat.

The side of wood-roasted plantain

We also ordered a special Mexican whole fish, similar in taste and appearance to a red snapper, that was stuffed with just the right amount of basil, orange, and sea salt, and then cooked in the wood oven until it was nice and smoky. It was perfectly seasoned and well cooked. A side of chaya, or Mayan spinach, helped absorb some of the flavors. A wood-roasted red pepper came alongside too, which was served whole.

Hartwood's pesca del dia changes daily, and they offer fish large enough for up to three people.

Also served whole was an incredible plantain side. Roasted whole in its skin in the wood fire oven until smoky and soft, but not too soft, the plantain was then dusted with fresh-grated canela, or Mexican cinnamon, which has a softer, smoother taste than the cinnamon we have up north. It was a simple yet novel way to serve plantains, showcasing the fruit whole while being perfectly cooked and seasoned.

Corn ice cream

For dessert, there was one offering: creamy and delicious corn ice cream served in a clay bowl. The ice cream had a strong taste of cornmeal, almost like very creamy polenta.

Keeping up with its Brooklyn heritage, Hartwood does not take reservations. As a result, long lines form along the beach road well before the restaurant's first seating at 6:00 p.m. If you don't want to wait, arrive before 6:00, or try to get in at the second seating around 7:30, when the first seating's diners are just finishing up. Annoying, yes, but with food this good, it's more than worth it.

Hartwood
Carretera Boca Paila km 7.6
Zona Costera, Tulum 77780, Mexico
http://www.hartwoodtulum.com/

Recommended dishes: Everything, especially the ribs and the whole fish. Dinner for two with drinks will cost around $125, so it's New York prices.

P.S.: Remember to bring bug spray.

The Foods of Tulum Mexico Part II: Mexican Street Food

2014-03-17T10:05:00.000-04:00

A "small" order of shrimp ceviche at El Camello Jr.

I recently embarked on a relaxing and flavorful vacation to Tulum in Mexico. Here is the second entry in our Beyond the Five Boroughs feature on Tulum, featuring Tulum's fresh take on Mexican street food and other traditional Mexican dishes, like tacos and ceviches. The first post explored Tulum's surprisingly authentic Italian restaurants. The third post covered Hartwood, Tulum's best restaurant. Later posts will explore beach front dining and Tulum's many other fine dining establishments.

Most of Tulum's superb collection of high quality restaurants are located along the beach road, which makes it all too easy to enjoy all your meals a quick stroll from the beach. If you have a car, which we recommend, take a short drive past the checkpoint with friendly men with friendly automatic weapons, and explore Tulum Town, about a 20 minute drive from the beach.

A selection of Antijitos at La Chiapaneca

The food is not as good as some of the outstanding restaurants on the beach road, but, naturally, the prices drop considerably. And you can sample the cuisine that locals and adventurous travelers alike can enjoy together.

Two spots that should not be missed are El Camello Jr., a raucous local seafood shop and restaurant, and Antojitos La Chiapaneca, a taqueria serving phenomenally inexpensive al pastor tacos. Or try them both in the same meal for a little surf 'n turf – they're certainly cheap enough.

Octopus al Guajillo tacos at El Camello Jr.

El Camello, "the camel" in Spanish, is located on the outskirts of town and so, from the beach, you have to drive straight through the town until it seems like there's no town left, and then there it is, on the side of the road. Sit at one of the outdoor plastic chairs to enjoy the full experience.

The scene at El Camello

El Camello serves huge portions of ceviche including octopus, fish, shrimp, and, for some reason, goat (we did not order the goat). Sizes range from "small" (meaning "large") to "large" (meaning "can feed a small army").

While you wait to order, a complimentary plate of spicy shark dip arrives with homemade tortilla chips. I don't think I had ever dipped tortilla chips into a shark dish before, but this dip would go great watching a football game in front of the TV. It's exactly like a shark-laced salsa sounds. Not very fishy, just meaty, spicy, and delicious.

The spicy shark dip

We ordered what they claimed was a "small" shrimp ceviche and a massive plate of perfectly steamed shrimp marinated in a citrus bath with tomatoes, onions, and spices arrived.

We also sampled inventive octopus tacos marinated with guajillo chilis. Octopus is hard to cook and often comes out rubbery, but not this one. Obviously, they knew what they were doing.

Some might object that the octopus could have been thrown on the grill for a little char; but the simply boiled and marinated pulpo worked for me.

Be sure, of course, to wash everything down with plenty of beer.

Dutifully making an al pastor taco at Antojitos La Chiapaneca

When you've had your fill of the surf, head over to Antojitos La Chiapaneca for the turf. At La Chiapaneca, the antojitos – meaning "snacks" in Spanish – include incredibly cheap tacos. The specialty is al pastor, or rotisserie pork. They serve chicken, carne al asada, and bean tacos as well. Naturally, the staff does not speak English.

The fixins' bar

The tacos are not large, but at less than 50 cents each, you can order a lot. The tacos are served with just lime wedges, and there is a slightly ominous looking fixins' bar where pots of brightly colored salsas, chopped cilantro-laced onions, and pickled cabbage await self-service.

La Chiapaneca also serves pretty good cheese empanadas, and tostadas with bean paste, your choice of meat, and sliced avocados.

Opt for a large variety and take full advantage of the fixins' bar. While I was apprehensive at first – especially because we were in cleanliness-challenged Mexico – I had no problems the next day, and I carefully observed that the locals were going to town on all the salsas.

The bright orange one had great flavor of guajillo chilis while the green one was seriously spicy. Try a little of both!

Are tacos at La Chiapaneca the best in the world? Is the meat quality the best? No, of course not, but you wouldn't expect it to be for the price. It's more about the great deal, being at a local joint, and enjoying the night on vacation.

Inexplicably, there is no beer, which would have gone perfectly. Opt instead for a Mexican coke, cheap here, $5.00 back in New York. Does it taste different than regular coke? I don't know, but paired with lots of spicy tacos, I enjoyed myself.
.

Al pastor tacos with all the fixins'

El Camello Jr.
Avenida Tulum & Luna Sur
Tulum, Mexico
Recommended dishes: ceviches, guajillo octopus tacos, beer

Antojitos La Chiapaneca
Avenida Tulum (right after Jupiter Norte)
Recommended dishes: Tacos al pastor, empanadas con queso, Mexican coke.

The Foods of Tulum Mexico Part I: The Italian Restaurants

2014-03-14T09:41:00.000-04:00

Acqua Pazza - olive oil poached red snapper fillet at Posada Margherita

I recently embarked on a relaxing and flavorful vacation to Tulum in Mexico. Here is the first entry in our Beyond the Five Boroughs feature on Tulum, featuring two of its surprisingly authentic Italian restaurants. Later posts explore beach front dining; fine dining; Hartwood, Tulum's best restaurant, and traditional Mexican street food.

Tulum, nestled in the Riviera Maya, about 75 miles south of Cancún, is known mostly for its pristine beaches, eco-friendly boutique hotels, and general low-key, relaxing vibe. The tranquil beach road boasts a dozen or more excellent restaurants, which make good use of the Yucatán's fresh seafood and plentiful fresh produce and herbs. Mexican flavors naturally abound.

That is why I was surprised to find that there are also two excellent, authentic, and creative Italian restaurants: Hemingway and Posada Margherita.

Hemingway's huge seafood pasta for two

Hemingway's menu

Hemingway is an intimate beachfront Italian restaurant, serving sophisticated dishes under candle light or in a few outdoor tables overlooking the breathtaking sea. There is no written menu, aside from one chalkboard of dishes when you walk in. Instead, the waiters – in serious Italian accents – explain the many dishes of the day: seafood risotto, Mediterranean grouper, and mussels and clams soute (when asked to describe the soute, our waiter replied "you know, a soute").

But the best dish by far was an amazing seafood pasta dish with a cornucopia of freshly steamed shellfish – Caribbean lobsters, mussels, clams, squid, and red snapper – on top of a heaping mound of house-made tagliatelle in a spicy tomato sauce. The seemingly simple yet sophisticated dish can be made for up to four people and comes out in a huge metal pan that fills the entire table.

The fantastic dish combined classic Italian technique with the fresh taste of the ocean, which was just a few yards away. For the two of us, that was all we ordered (along with a nice bottle of Italian wine, of course), and it was more than enough.

With the recent prevalence of extra large dishes in New York, it is a shame that I have yet to see this kind of dish prepared well here. Someone should change that.

Homemade tagliatelle with too few shrimp

The serene entrance to Posada Margherita

While Hemingway's had more of an upscale, intimate feel, down the read was the bustling Posada Margherita, a hotel and restaurant that had more of a family-friendly, neighborhood trattoria feel, with children at many tables.

The antipasto

The large, rambling space was completely candle lit, without any electric lights – creating an almost spooky feel. (The restaurant also claims that all the electricity they do use is from solar panels, in keeping with Tulum's eco-friendly feel).

The kitchen excels at turning out well-executed, simple Italian dishes.

Our meal started with a somewhat usual antipasto plate containing a variety of homemade focaccia (tomato, rosemary, and onion); roasted pistachios; excellent sharp provalone cheese; and raw cauliflower. The cauliflower was an odd choice, but everything else was excellent, especially the tomato focaccia.

The candlelit interior

Next, we really enjoyed the acqua pazza, a typical rustic Italian dish of olive oil poached fish. Here, fresh red snapper fillets were poached in wine, olive oil, and ample lemon, and topped with fresh tomatoes. It was served with an unnecessarily large assortment of starch accompaniments including roasted potatoes, toasted bread, and an almond and ginger infused rice. The delicate local snapper was the star and it reminded us why we love fresh simple Italian cooking.

The rice was also very good, though it had little connection to the fish. The potatoes were unneeded and ordinary. I can't say anything bad about toasted homemade bread, but it also didn't belong, especially after all that focaccia.

Homemade tagliatelle with shrimp and zucchini in an olive oil and garlic sauce also excelled in its simplicity. The pasta was perfectly cooked.

My only complaint was that the dish was served with a measly four shrimp, which made it's $20+ price tag a bit excessive.

But I was on vacation just a stone's throw from the ocean, so I didn't seem to mind.

Hemingway
Carretera Boca Paila km 5.5
Zona Costera, Tulum 77780, Mexico
http://www.hemingwaytulum.net/
Recommend dishes: Homemade shellfish tagliatelle (about 300 pesos per person)

Posada Margherita
Carretera Boca Paila km 4.5
Zona Costera, Tulum 77780, Mexico
http://www.posadamargherita.com/
Recommended dishes: acqua pazza (295 pesos), homemade tagliatelle (265 pesos)

French Classics at Sel et Poivre

2014-03-10T12:14:00.000-04:00

Duck a l'orange with wild rice at Sel et Poivre

It's not easy to find traditional french dishes in New York these days, so I was eager to try Sel et Poivre, a family-owned restaurant claiming to offer "a taste of Paris on Lex". A press dinner organized by the restaurant gave me that opportunity (portion size may vary from what is pictured here).

Open since 1989, Sel et Poivre is a neighborhood gem that obviously has a regular clientele. The setting is more upscale than the standard bistro, with candles on white tables and elegant sconces on off-white walls with wood paneling. The restaurant was busy on a Tuesday night, with a mix of older couples, younger groups, and families enjoying some French favorites. We noticed two customers contently dining solo.

The restaurant offers all the classics you would expect to find at a traditional French bistro. There are bowls of French onion soup, dishes of garlicky escargots, and servings of moules mariniere with frites. Entrees include trout almandine, frogs legs a la provencal, and duck a l'orange. The wine lists offers a mix of French and international wines, with a generous selection of wines by the glass.

Aged New York sirloin steak served with Roquefort or poivre sauce

We started with a refreshing celery root remoulade, served with beets and spiked with yellow curry powder. The combination of curry and mayo reminded me of a good (but ordinary) curry chicken salad from your local deli. A red pepper soup was warm but light, perfectly good.

Striped bass with artichokes and fennel

Fortunately, things heated up when the entrees arrived. We enjoyed an excellent plate of wild striped bass with artichoke hearts, fennel, and black olives. The fish was flaky and tender with a nice sear on the top. The artichokes and fennel were not very much integrated into the dish, but they worked as two very good sides.

Steak featured lots of poivre, in a good way; it was juicy and peppery and delicious. We tried it with a mild Roquefort sauce and an excellent poivre sauce, which was creamy and peppery. We fought over which sauce was better with fries (my vote was the poivre).

Veal kidneys with mustard cream sauce

Since we were channeling France, it was important to try some organ meats. A traditional dish of veal kidneys arrived in a mustard cream sauce that perhaps could have used more mustard and less cream. If you like liver, it turns out, you'll like kidneys too. And speaking of which, a large slab of liver lyonnaise was perfectly cooked and served with fantastic onions; a little rich for me after all those kidneys (never thought I'd say that) but a great dish to share along with some lighter choices. (This week and next, the restaurant is running a special menu dedicated to game meats - yum.)

Molten chocolate cake with ice cream

We were less impressed with the classic duck a l'orange, which was a bit dry and lacked flavor—orange or otherwise—in the duck meat itself. It was good enough when eaten together with the orange slices, but there are better dishes on the menu.

Desserts were the usual classics, done right. Creme brulee was set well with a great charred crust. The chocolate dessert was your basic (delicious) molten chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream.

Sel et Poivre
853 Lexington Ave. (between 64th and 65th)
Tel. (212) 517-5780
www.seletpoivrenyc.com

Disclaimer: My meal was paid-for as part of an organized press dinner. The opinions expressed in this review are my own. No restaurant is ever promised a positive review.

Hand-Made Moles from Puebla at El Maguey y la Tuna

2014-03-06T10:05:00.000-05:00

Fish Tacos with Assorted Hand-Made Moles at El Maguey y la Tuna

It's always a great day when you find a restaurant dish that is truly worth a trip. And so it was a great day when I found myself enjoying the mole poblano at El Maguey y la Tuna, a hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurant on the Lower-East Side.

Mexican hot cider served with tequila

I was at a press dinner held for a small group of food bloggers and other press, and all of a sudden the cameras had stopped clicking and the notes had stopped being scribbled. There were sounds of clinking silverware and contented sighs.

The mole had been made by hand over the course of days, following a secret family recipe that I am sure involves a long list of various kinds of chilies, nuts, seeds, spices, and Mexican chocolate. It had a great combination of sweet and spicy, without too much of either one; just a fantastic, complex, rich flavor. The chunks of chicken it came with were secondary to the beautiful sauce.

Sitting across from me, the Restaurant Fairy boldly summoned a big bowl of it for us all to go after with spoons. The rest of the table murmured its approval.

Chicken with Mole Poblano

El Maguey y la Tuna is a family restaurant that serves small-town Mexican food from the region of Puebla, which the New York Times has called "the gastronomic capital of Mexico." Since 1992, the Cortez family—Leonides, Manuela, and Maria Luisa—have been serving up home-style cuisine to happy customers, first in Williamsburg and now on the Lower-East Side.

The focus is on the moles: sauces that are made in the old fashioned way; by hand, without the assistance of modern equipment. The recipes have been passed down in the Cortez family for generations. Some of them take up to three days to prepare.

We tried a number of them, including a mole made with five kinds of chilies, which was served over chicken, and a comforting plate of chilaquiles, a traditional breakfast dish made of torn-up tortillas mixed with a green mole verde and served with scrambled eggs. They were all great—warm and complex—although none quite matched the mole poblano in flavor.

A Poblano Pepper Stuffed with Queso Blanco and Smothered in Spiced Tomato Sauce

The other star of the menu also had the name "poblano": a giant poblano pepper, which was stuffed with mild queso blanco and smothered with a spiced tomato sauce. The pepper itself was very delicate and mild, giving the dish a flavor and texture similar to a good Mexican lasagna.

Jalapeño Margarita

Although fish tacos are not traditional in landlocked Puebla, the Cortez family added them to the menu as a concession to enthusiastic customers demanding their beloved Cal-Mex staple. They made them their own by topping the crispy fish with their hand-made moles. It is a different way to enjoy the sauces, applied lightly enough not to mask the flavor of the fish, but generously enough to contribute their unique flavors to a combination that works beautifully.

Drinks were competent and fun, including a good jalapeño margarita and a comforting hot Mexican cider, which came with large chunks of various kinds of fruit in it. An optional shot of tequila or rum was provided on the side to be poured in at the table.

We recently observed that Mexican food is on the rise in New York City, with taquerias serving more authentic offerings, often for a few bucks each. Since 1992, El Maguey y la Tuna has been offering a different kind of authentic Mexican cuisine; the small-town food of Puebla, made by hand in the restaurant's basement according to generations-old family recipes.

El Maguey y la Tuna
321 E Houston St (between Attorney St. & Ridge St.)
Tel. (212) 473-3919
http://www.magueyylatuna.com/

Garam Masala-Crusted Cod with South-Indian Vegetables

2014-03-03T09:52:00.000-05:00

In another guest post, my wife Melissa writes about a new favorite dish.

We watch a lot of food television at home. Sometimes I will see a dish that looks delicious but is a little complicated to make, so I try to streamline it to be made more quickly on a weeknight.

This dish is inspired by my favorite Cooking Channel personality, Bal Arneson. She uses sablefish, but it can be made with any kind of firm white fish, and I like to use cod. The combination of garam masala crust on the fish with the complimentary spices on the veggies makes for a tasty and complex flavor. The poached egg on top gives it height and creates a plate that looks and tastes like it could be served at a restaurant.

In her recipe, Bal adds some flourishes like deep-frying the poached eggs in a panko crust and making her own clarified butter. Maybe one day I will try that, but for now this works just as well for me.

Garam Masala-Crusted Cod with South-Indian Style Vegetables

2 tablespoons canola or other neutral oil, divided
1 tablespoon ghee (or another tablespoon oil)
1/4 pound string beans
A handful of wild mushrooms, sliced
3/4 cup fresh or frozen corn, thawed if frozen
1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 1/2 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
4-5 curry leaves, crumbled
1 tablespoon garam masala
1/2 pound cod or other firm white fish, in 2 fillets
1 tablespoon white vinegar
2 eggs

1. Bring a medium pot of water to boil. When it boils, reduce it to a gentle simmer.

2. Meanwhile, heat a large nonstick pan over medium heat and add the ghee with a tablespoon of neutral oil. Add the string beans and sliced mushrooms and let those brown a bit. Then add the corn, mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and crumbled curry leaves, and season with salt and pepper. Stir the mixture periodically until the vegetables are cooked.

3. Combine the garam masala with a bit of salt, and coat one side of the fish with the mixture. Heat a small nonstick pan with a bit of neutral oil and place the fish in the pan, garam masala side down. Cook until crispy, about four minutes. Flip and cook for another four minutes or so, until the fish is nicely browned on the top and bottom.

4. Add vinegar to the simmering pot of water. Crack an egg into a small bowl and slide it carefully into the water, and repeat with the other egg. Let the eggs cook 2-3 minutes so that the whites are firm and the insides are still a bit runny. You can use a slotted spoon to encourage the eggs to take shape, and use this same spoon to remove the eggs when they are finished. When the eggs are done, rinse them gently with warm water and pat them dry on paper towels.

5. Once the eggs are done you are ready to plate. Spoon the vegetables onto two plates. Place the fish atop the vegetables and top each plate with a poached egg. And voila! A beautiful weeknight dinner that is good enough for company.

Total time: 40 minutes
Makes 2 servings

Adapted from Bal Arneson's Garam Masala Crusted Sablefish.

Nobu New York: Revisiting the Old Master

2014-02-24T10:02:00.000-05:00

Nobu's famous rock shrimp tempura with creamy spicy sauce. Still the best there is.

When Nobu first opened in New York in 1994, it was a bombshell.

In her three-star review, New York Times restaurant critic Ruth Reichl called it "a restaurant that cannot be compared to anything else," noting that with his Peruvian influences and inventive style Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa had created "an entirely new take on Japanese cuisine." As if Matsuhisa's talent were not enough, the kitchen was run by future Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto. In the evenings, the restaurant was "thronged with celebrities and celebrity-watchers" looking to try Nobu's famous black cod with miso and rock shrimp tempura with creamy spicy sauce.

Nobu was also my favorite restaurant. I went every year for my birthday.

But things have changed. Today, Nobu is an expansive restaurant chain with locations throughout the United States (including three in New York) and around the globe. Mr. Matsuhisha is busy running his global empire and Iron Chef Morimoto has long since moved on. The restaurant's signature dishes—black cod with miso, rock shrimp tempura—and its Latin-inspired cuisine (think yellowtail with jalapeño) have been copied countless times and are now served in nearly every Japanese restaurant in New York.

With all the imitations out there, I wanted to know: could Nobu's signature dishes still be as good as I remembered?

Bluefin Toro Tartare

The answer is a resounding yes. Nobu's black cod with miso remains the best I have ever had. The sauce has a much deeper flavor, perfectly balanced between savory and sweet. The surface has incredible caramelization, and the flavors penetrate throughout the fish, the product of it having been marinated for days in miso and sake.

Likewise, Nobu's rock shrimp tempura with creamy spicy sauce remains the best there is. The sauce is made with homemade mayo and chili sauce, tossed with the crispy shrimp just before serving so that they retain their crunch. The shrimp are wonderfully fresh and cooked perfectly, and the dish is brightened up with fresh yuzu juice for a subtle hit of citrus.

The seared sashimi salad with Matsuhisha dressing was a little saltier than I had remembered, but the fish is fresh and buttery, with a nice seared peppery crust.

Despite the high quality of the food, there was something lacking from the experience.

In part, the restaurant is a victim of its own success. Nobu has so many imitators that the menu seems uninspired, and although that may not be fair, Nobu has made the choice not to evolve its menu for the last twenty years. When I think about where to go in the future for an extravagant meal, there are many more interesting places I might try.

New Style Sashimi

Perhaps more importantly, there was insufficient thought put to our "omakase" dining experience, which I think reflects the fact that the inspiration and excitement in the kitchen has moved on. We had requested three dishes—the cod, the shrimp, and the sashimi salad—and asked them to surprise us with the rest. We had hoped for something unusual, perhaps something off-menu or from the specials. Instead, we were served three more dishes that have been centerpieces of the menu for twenty years: the "new style sashimi," the bluefin tuna tartare, and a sushi course with miso soup.

All three dishes were raw fish applications, so that when added to our sashimi salad the omakase experience was completely unbalanced, with the only cooked dishes being the ones we had requested ourselves.

I thought back to a fantastic meal at Brushstroke, where the multi-course kaiseki menu featured an elaborate parade of dishes, each prepared with a different cooking style, giving the meal a distinctive rhythm and flow. At Nobu, instead of crafting a cohesive menu, the staff just put in front of us some of their well-known dishes. Similarly, there was no hesitation about the redundancy of all the raw fish, despite the extensive selection of cooked dishes on the menu. I thought about a meal at Daniel where our waiter gently pointed out that two of the dishes I had ordered incorporated some hearts of palm, making sure I did not mind (I didn't). I didn't expect that level of perfection, but neither was such detail necessary to craft a well-balanced meal

In addition, at $120 per person for the food alone, the omakase menu seemed overpriced. Had we ordered the same dishes from the a la carte menu—and they are all available there—we may even have spent less.

Molten Chocolate Cake with Green Tea Ice-Cream

Fortunately, the food continued to be terrific.

Nobu is not a sushi restaurant (it kills me when people order exclusively sushi there and then complain), but the sushi course was surprisingly good; the yellowtail, in particular, tasted like the sea. The bluefin tuna tartare was the one disappointment, with so much soy and wasabi that I could barely taste the fish; a waste of an expensive (and controversial) ingredient.

On the other hand, the new style sashimi was fantastic, consisting of delicate salmon that is spiked with garlic, ginger, and scallions, and then gently seared by sprinkling warm sesame oil and extra virgin olive oil over the top just before serving. A fresh hit of yuzu juice rounds out truly superlative dish.

Dessert was the classic molten chocolate cake with with green tea ice cream; the same one I had for my birthday about fifteen years ago. It was warm and gooey and delicious, just as I had remembered it.

Nobu New York
105 Hudson Street
Tel. (212) 219-0500
www.noburestaurants.com/new-york

Chana Dal Tadka - Yellow Lentil Curry with Sauteed Onions, Garlic, and Spices

2014-02-14T09:30:00.002-05:00

Lentils are the ultimate peasant food: hearty, inexpensive, and rich in protein. I've learned to keep several kinds of them in my pantry, from quick-cooking red lentils to slow-cooking black urad dal that are simmered with spices for hours on lazy winter afternoons. This week I turned to my chana dal, little yellow chickpeas that have been split in half for faster cooking; quick enough for a weeknight.

The key to this dish is the tadka: an aromatic saute of garlic, onions, and spices that is cooked in ghee or oil to a nice golden brown and mixed into the lentils at the end. The onions are best sliced very thin so that they take on a sweet, caramelized, almost crispy quality. The result is a dish that is aromatic, complex, and spicy, with a hint of sweetness from the onions.

Chana Dal Tadka - Yellow Lentil Curry with Sauteed Onions, Garlic, and Spices

The tadka: garlic, onions, chilies and spices

1 cup chana dal (split chickpeas)
1 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 bay leaf
1 medium onion
4 garlic cloves
1 tablespoon ghee or neutral oil
2 dried chilies (or more, to taste)
1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
4 whole cloves
2 teaspoons garam masala
Chopped cilantro, for garnish

1. Combine the dal, turmeric, cardamom, garam masala, and bay leaf in a medium saucepan with a good pinch of salt and cover with 4 cups of water. Bring the pot to a boil, reduce to a gentle simmer, and cook partially covered for 40 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the tadka. Thinly slice the onion and garlic. Heat a small frying pan over medium heat. When it is hot, add the ghee with the chilies, cumin seeds, and cloves, and saute for about 30 seconds until the cumin gives off its fragrance. Add the onion and garlic and continue cooking, stirring once in a while, until the onions are nicely caramelized and quite dark, but not burnt.

3. When the lentils are done, stir and mash them a bit with a whisk or wooden spoon so that some of the lentils break down and thicken the dish, giving it a semi-pureed quality. Remove the cloves from the tadka if you can find them and add the tadka to the lentils, reserving some for garnish, and mix to combine. Transfer to a serving dish and top with the remaining tadka and the chopped cilantro.

Shopping Note: In New York, I buy my lentils and spices at The Spice Corner on 29th Street in Manhattan or at Patel Brothers in Jackson Heights, Queens. I store them in my OXO pop top containers.

Forty Years Later, Shinbashi Still Serves Great Sushi

2014-02-06T10:51:00.001-05:00

It is hard to imagine New York without sushi, but when Shinbashi first opened its doors in 1974, it was one of the very first restaurants to offer Japanese cuisine—including sushi, tempura, and even an omakase menu—to adventurous diners in the Big Apple. Forty years later, it still turns out sushi and other dishes that are just a step or two above the ordinary, all in a comfortable setting with helpful and attentive service.

Mushroom tempura

We loved a dish of assorted mushroom tempura, with mushrooms that were still juicy and tender despite having been battered and fried. The dish had great variety: saucer-shaped shiitakes, large halved king oyster mushrooms, layered leafy-looking maitakes, funny three-headed hon-shimeji mushrooms, and clumps of stringy enoki mushrooms. These were high-quality, flavorful mushrooms and the tempura did not mask their flavor. They were served with a nice squeeze of lemon and a side of tempura broth.

A dish of agadashi tofu pulled off the same effect, with silky tofu that was fried in a light crispy coating. The tofu arrived in large cubes, sitting in a dashi soy broth and decorated with thinly-sliced scallions and grated daikon. A really nice dish.

The service had those extra touches that make dining a pleasure. Warm towels greeted the beginning and end of the meal. Our waitress perceptively brought a new side of spicy mayo just as the last one was running out. A half-finished beer was replaced free of charge on the off chance it had gotten too warm.

An attractive platter of sushi nigiri (eel, salmon, tuna, and yellowtail) and rolls (yellowtail, spicy tuna, spicy scallop)

And then came the sushi. I like to evaluate sushi on four criteria: the quality of the fish, the quality of the rice, the ratio of fish to rice, and the quality of any sauces or other "extras". Here is how I come out:

The fish quality was quite high. Scallop had a great hint of sweetness; we enjoyed big chunks of it rolled up with spicy mayo for a delicious combination of savory and sweet. Delicate salmon pulled apart with a gentle bite. Tuna had that lovely buttery quality. Yellowtail was at its best: fresh, clean, and pure.

Agadashi Tofu

The best sushi rice is freshly cooked, still slightly warm, and sticky but not too caked together and dry. At Shinbashi, the rice was a little dry, as if it was not quite fresh enough from the steaming. The fish-to-rice ratio, however, was strong, with generous slices of fish that draped themselves over both sides of their beds of rice.

The "extras" made me happy in a way they normally do not, as they were deployed in a way that enhanced and did not overwhelm the fish. Spicy rolls were made up of generous fresh chunks of fish rolled together with spicy mayo applied separately, rather than all mixed in. Yellowtail nigiri arrived with a sprinkle of finely sliced scallions on top, subtly adding great texture and flavor. Eel was served with a glaze that was just right, savory and sweet but not too sweet, with a gentle dusting of sesame seeds.

When I go back, the mushroom tempura and spicy scallop roll will be repeat players. So will the yellowtail nigiri sushi with its sprinkling of scallions.

Shinbashi
7 East 48th Street
Tel. (212) 813-1009
www.shinbashinyc.com

Oysters and Cocktails on the LES at Black Crescent

2014-02-05T15:31:00.003-05:00

Black Crescent, the new sophisticated oyster bar on the LES

Black Crescent takes the term "Oyster Bar" to another level. The folks at seafood purveyor Wild Edibles have created a sophisticated cocktail bar at heart, with dim lighting, communal tables, and big band music on the sound system. Black Crescent also turns out an impressive selection of oyster varieties and exceptional, finely prepared seafood small plates – like citrus-cured scallops and house-smoked salmon – with all the finesse, flavor, and attention to detail you find at many fine dining establishments.

A dozen oysters

The bar's concept is nicely versatile, accommodating guests with varying agenda. Diners can enjoy a full dinner comprised of oysters and their choice from the over half a dozen seafood plates, paired with an international wine selection (including a great Basque country white, but no pinot grigios). Or they can stop in for a snack, or a few creative cocktails, or even some late-night revelry. (Carlos Baz, one of the owners, admitted somewhat sheepishly that it got a bit "bro-y" one Saturday night after 1 a.m.).

Order the txakoli, and watch Reynolds, who holds shop behind the bar, expertly pour it like we saw in the Basque country.

Citrus cured scallops with slivered jalapenos and blood orange ices

The cocktail list is highlighted by the Broadside, with walnut-infused rye whiskey, Chinese five spice, lemon, and eggwhite; an intensely wintery drink that immediately warmed me up while waiting for some oysters. Speaking of oysters, Black Crescent offers some for 99 cents each during happy hours running from 6 - 8 p.m. and again from midnight - 1 a.m. There are also a good selection of other oysters, including some of my favorite from Fanny Bay, in British Columbia.

Poached cobia with chorizo

The oysters are served with a bosc pear mignonette sauce, which is mixed with a healthy amount of black pepper. The oysters are NOT served with cocktail sauce, which is banned from the premises. Helpful small print on the menu explains that the pure taste of the oyster should not be overpowered by cocktail sauce, hot sauce, or other traditional accompaniments.

When asked, Carlos explained his dismay at seeing his Wild Edible customers drown beautiful oysters with copious amounts of the horseradish laced condiment. I, for one, don't mind a bit of cocktails sauce or even hot sauce on oysters, if used in moderation, but have always preferred mignonette sauce. This hardened stance goes along with the bar's general sophisticated feel.

Black Crescent's best dish combining house smoked salmon, bluefish, over squid ink-dyed brioche

The seafood small plates are around $15 each, which can add up, but pack a lot of flavor and are beautifully presented. My only complaint is that because the bar is dimly lit, you can't see the dishes well enough to fully appreciate their presentation (and requiring the use of flash on my camera).

I agree with Reynolds whose favorite is the "smoked" plate of house-smoked salmon on top of house-smoked bluefish salad, on top of a grilled brioche dyed black with squid ink. This is a fun play on the traditional smoked salmon on pumpernickel that you might see at a Jewish deli. The brioche added some sweetness that compliments the smoky flavor of both fishes.

The scallops and the octopus, side by side

Another superb creation was a citrus cured scallop dish with slivered jalapenos and blood orange ices. The incorporation of the cold ices was unusual, but worked nicely, balancing sweetness against the citrus of the scallop, and spiciness of the jalapeno.

Another creative dish was paper-thin octopus carpaccio with fennel salad, persimmon, and black olive "dust," which provided a nice salty flavor without being too olivey. It ate more like a salad than a carpaccio, and the super thin pieces of octopus nicely balanced the anise flavor of fennel.

We also enjoyed an olive oil poached fish with chorizo and topped with bitter greens. The fish, which rotates depending on availability, was cobia the night we tried it. The addition of chorizo is always a nice touch, but like always, there could have been more chorizo.

There is no dessert, but Carlos helpfully suggested that oysters make for an excellent dessert. They do, indeed.

Black Crescent
76 Clinton St.
(between Rivington St & Delancey St)
New York, NY 10002
(212) 477-1771

Recommended dishes: Cocktails, oysters, citrus cured scallops, smoked salmon, octopus carpaccio.

View Larger Map

Bison Chili

2014-02-01T12:05:00.000-05:00

A few good friends of ours started BisonBison, purveyors of top quality grass fed American bison meat. Bison is leaner and gamier than beef, and works really well in a chili during these cold winter months. I made this recipe by modifying our ever-reliable vegetarian chili with tofu recipe.

Many people are very particular about what goes into their chili, particularly revolving around beans: beans, no beans, only beans, two kinds of beans, three kinds of beans, etc. I'm not one of those people. I usually just throw in whatever vegetables I have (this time, no beans), and rely on good seasoning from plenty of garlic, cumin, fennel seeds, and a bit of pimentón for some smokiness.

This recipe is easy to double or triple and works especially well in large batches. Or it can work just as well for a weeknight dinner – when you don't feel like simmering it forever, just add more tomato paste and less stock to keep the thick consistency.

Bison Chili

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 medium garlic cloves, peeled and diced
1 large white onion, chopped
1 serrano or jalapeño pepper, seeds removed (if desired) and chopped
1 pound BisonBison ground bison
Your choice of chopped veggies (here I used 1 red bell pepper, 1 green bell pepper, 1 cup white mushrooms, and one small bunch of broccoli)

1 28 ounce can diced or crushed tomatoes

1 6 ounce can tomato paste
1-2 cups chicken stock, vegetable stock, or water
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1 tablespoon Mexican or other oregano
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon pimentón
chili powder or cayenne to taste

Toppings: grated sharp cheddar cheese, chopped avocado, greek yogurt or sour cream, and chopped parsley or cilantro

1. Heat half the oil in a large pot or dutch oven over medium high heat. Add the ground buffalo and cook until cooked through and a bit crispy. Add the remaining oil, then the garlic, onions, serrano or jalapeño pepper, bell pepper, and broccoli and cook for 5-8 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, fennel seeds, oregano, cumin, pimentón, salt and pepper. Add 1 cup of stock or water and assess consistency, adding 1/2 cup-1 cup more if it's too thick or if you'd prefer to simmer it longer. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to low. Taste and add chili powder or more seasoning for desired spiciness. Simmer for at least 10 minutes or up to an hour.

3. Ladle the chili into bowls and top with chopped avocado, diced parsley or cilantro, cheese, and greek yogurt or sour cream.

Total time: 45 minutes, or longer if you want to simmer it more.

Yield: 6-8 servings

Han Dynasty - A Response to Pete Wells

2014-01-27T12:43:00.000-05:00

Ma Po Tofu at Han Dynasty, with chilies, thick-cut scallions, fermented black beans, and Sichuan pepper

Han Dynasty, the popular Philadelphia-based Sichuan restaurant, has opened to long lines and hype in New York City's East Village. As any NYFJ reader knows, we love Sichuan food, with its fiery chilies, its abundant use of garlic and ginger, and the exciting tongue-tingling sensation of Sichuan peppercorns. We recently enjoyed one of Han Dynasty's six Philly-area locations, so we are happy to see it open up shop here.

Kung Pao Shrimp

But last week, Han Dynasty suffered a negative review by Pete Wells, restaurant critic for the New York Times, who awarded it no stars. Wells is "mystified by the popularity of Han Dynasty in Manhattan, where there are far better Sichuan restaurants," complaining that Han Dynasty's version of Sichuan cuisine "has a thick American accent" with too much sugar and too many bell peppers.

We felt compelled to respond because, respectfully, Wells misses the point. The allure of Han Dynasty is not that it serves the best Sichuan food, or the most authentic (it does not), but that it makes Sichuan cuisine accessible to New Yorkers in a fun, trendy atmosphere. And, importantly, it does so outside of Chinatown or Flushing.

The Interior at Han Dynasty in University City, Philadelphia

The fact is, Sichuan and other Chinese cuisines are delicious--some of my favorite in the world--but Chinese food in New York City is a disaster. While other Asian cuisines have thrived here, Chinese food (outside a few select neighborhoods) has been relegated to flavorless and uninspired neighborhood spots with bland food best eaten as late-night takeout or while drunk, or both.

Compare that with the explosion of other Asian cuisines. Popular Thai restaurants in every neighborhood, like SEA in Williamsburg, serve tasty and attractively presented food in modern decor to crowds of diners, even though better and more authentic Thai cuisine can be be had at holes-in-the-wall like Pam's Real Thai on West 49th. Ramen shops like Ippudo and Momofuku Noodle Bar attract throngs of people waiting to enjoy their steamy bowls of soupy noodles in an upbeat and trendy atmosphere. Meanwhile, Sichuan and other Chinese cuisines, with flavors that are just as exciting, have almost no comparable restaurants at all, let alone one in every neighborhood.

Wontons in Hot Oil

Wells's criticisms only prove the point. He confesses that he "had hoped that somebody would curse at [him] when [he] ordered," giving him more confidence in the restaurant's authenticity, I suppose, but "[i]t never happened." And he laments that the food is not as good as at Szechuan Gourmet (which Zagat describes as having great food but "dumpy decor") or at Little Pepper, his favorite place in College Point, Queens.

But many New Yorkers don't want to be "cursed at" or go to "Queens" for their Friday night out with friends. Instead, we want what Han Dynasty offers: a trendy atmosphere, a good cocktail list, an East Village location. (For the unfamiliar, College Point is an area of Queens north of Flushing, and Little Pepper is about 40 minutes on foot or 15 minutes by bus from the nearest subway station--the last stop on the 7 line.)

Meanwhile, we thought the food at the University City location was perfectly good, even if not authentic. Dumplings swimming in bright red chili oil were a highlight, with only mild heat and good sweetness. Cumin lamb was heavy on the cumin, sweeter and more saucy than usual but quite hot.

Dan Dan Noodles (pictured without pork)

The dan dan noodles--when done right, one of the best dishes in the world--was a disappointment. Instead of the mouth-numbing puckering sauce of chili oil, vinegar, and Sichuan pepper, the dish mixed in sesame paste to produce a flavor more akin to Chinese-American sesame noodles. Ma po tofu (see our recipe) was done correctly, though, which lots of Sichuan pepper, fermented black beans, thick-cut scallions, and a bright red color.

Even if it is not a pillar of authenticity, Han Dynasty proves that the American mainstream wants good, flavorful Chinese food and will even wait in line for it. Perhaps Han Dynasty's popularity will spur more Chinese chefs and restaurateurs to venture outside Chinatown and Flushing and show their stuff in exciting and upbeat locations. And maybe the neighborhood spot will be forced to improve just a bit.

Han Dynasty NYC
90 3rd Avenue (between 12th & 13th St)
New York, NY 10003
Tel. (212)390-8685
http://handynasty.net/

Beyond the Five Boroughs: Union Market in Washington D.C.

2014-01-23T11:15:00.002-05:00

On a recent trip to our nation's capital – where I first planted my food-writing roots – I had the pleasure of visiting Union Market, the cavernous recently-revitalized market that has become the foodie destination in DC. Even Attorney General Eric Holder is known to frequent the space.

Opened in late 2012, Union Market is home to some 40 local food shops, crafts stores, and clothing purveyors. It has become a major attraction, helping to revitalize a once desolate neighborhood of warehouses, near Gallaudet University.

A bit like an indoor Smorgasburg, a New Yorker would feel right at home at Union Market's trendy food stalls, which serve everything from excellent cappuccinos to Korean tacos, to oysters and beer. An afternoon visit gave me the opportunity to sample only a small number of the vendors at Union Market

A selection of Chesapeake oysters alongside a fish sauce-spiked bloody mary

Rappahannock Oyster Bar, a mouthful of a name, occupies a prime location in the center of Union Market's first floor. The oyster bar hawks Chesapeake Bay oysters, raw or grilled, and a concise selection of seafood small plates. Definitely stick with the raw oysters – which were plump and not minerally – as the grilled ones were a far cry from the ones I had in New Orleans.

Craft beers and an outstanding bloody mary made with fish sauce round out the selection. I'm always looking for new takes on the bloody mary and I enjoyed the addition of bold fish sauce to the spicy beverage.

An assortment of tacos from TaKorean

As you approach one end of the the first floor, you'll immediately smell the tangy BBQ flavors emanating from TaKorean, a Korean taco joint. New Yorkers are well-accustomed to Korean tacos, from our local favorite food trucks Kimchi Taco and Korilla. TaKorean seemed to me more pan-Asian than fully Korean, and was less kimchi-focused that Kimchi Taco or Korilla. The best of the tacos was a sweet and spicy soy-marinated bulgogi steak taco. A pan-seared caramelized tofu taco with a tangy hoisin was also delicious, nicely adding some Chinese flavors.

Taking a cue from Attorney General Holder, we next stopped by Red Apron Butchery, a full-service butcher of anything from cold cuts to small-batch charcuterie.

Red Apron's "Cotechino Burger"

We made good use of a small bar/seating area serving sandwiches and craft beer, and ordered a "Cotechino Burger" – pork sausage fashioned into a patty and topped with an overflowing amount of arugula, pickled fennel, and green sauce in between a brioche bun.

The "burger" was a great contrast of flavors: spicy sausage, crisp and bitter greens, and a slightly sweet bun.

Another sandwich of pork meatballs overflowing a housemade baguette and topped with salsa verde was just the kind of decadence I was looking for.

Suddenly in need of an afternoon pick me up, we stopped at Peregrine Espresso for some excellent Counter Culture cappuccinos, with friendly heart and flower-shaped milk-styling (the main branch was recently named one of the best coffee bars in America). I would have preferred, however, if they didn't serve such a creation in a paper cup, as there was ample seating.

Two perfect cappuccinos, unfortunately served in paper cups

An expensive knick-knack store perhaps ironically named "Salt & Sundry" sells fancy condiments, plates and bowls, cocktail accessories, and assorted "artisan" items like Tamr's Tonic and Mike's Hot Honey. A surprising number of offerings referenced Brooklyn. I guess we didn't go far from home!

Union Market
1309 Fifth St. N.E.
Washington, D.C. 20002
Open 11 a.m. - 8 p.m. Weds-Fri; 8 a.m. - 8 p.m. Sat-Sun; closed Mon-Tues.
unionmarketdc.com

Atrium Brings Fine Dining to Dumbo

2014-01-21T11:01:00.000-05:00

The bright, modern Atrium, brings fine dining to Dumbo

Add Atrium to the growing list of fine dining restaurants that have embraced Brooklyn as their home. Unlike, Battersby, which squeezed itself into a cramped, exposed-brick interior, Atrium is situated in an airy, modern, two-level space, without an exposed brick in sight. The restaurant occupies the ground floor of 15 Main Street in Dumbo, a former warehouse converted into modern condos, which include the insane, still-for-sale clocktower residence at the top (and the home of actress Anne Hathaway).

The sleek, modern decor includes a large open kitchen and a hanging garden along one wall, which was left when former tenant the Governor vacated the space in the aftermath of Hurricane Sandy. The bright lofted ceiling with stringed cafe lighting creates the illusion of an atrium.

Drinks at Atrium

The team of DB Bistro alums has created a French-influenced American menu. Most dishes are rich with complex, bold flavors and make good use of French technique. There is a need for some lighter fare, which will hopefully make an appearance on the menu by springtime.

The drinks include fantastic creative cocktails, created with the help of a PDT alum. The best of the bunch include the smooth but strong "Tea & Kalamansi," which combines bourbon, Assam tea, and cocchi. A long wine list – perhaps too long – features a good collection of Spanish riojas, as well as an unusual and refreshing txakoli rosé from the Basque country.

The excellent steak tartare

The menu is divided into starters, pastas, mains, and sides, and also includes oysters and a recently added cheese & charcuterie board. The bright and friendly wait staff helpfully assist in navigating the many menu categories.

Bread is a menu item that costs $3, which would normally irk me, but this bread was superb. Smoked over applewood, the round loaf was crisp on the outside, giving way to a pillowy interior with just the right amount of smoky flavor. A homemade olive butter was a rich accompaniment without too strong of an olive flavor.

The best appetizers at Atrium are also the richest.

A hand cut steak tartare with chopped beets, red miso, and an egg yolk was the best steak tartare I've had in a very long time. The beef was excellent and well seasoned, the beets added some sweetness to the meat, and the strong red miso provided another bold flavor. An egg yolk tied all the ingredients together, and crusty bread served as the perfect vehicle.

The Lamb Merguez with sweet Piquillo pepper

A spiced lamb sausage Merguez-style was combined with a sweet lightly breaded Piquillo pepper, lentils, and an arugula puree. This was a great contrast of spicy and sweet, and a beautiful dish. The arugula didn't add much, but it enlivened the plate.

Fluke crudo

Atrium's rendition of a Caesar salad was also outstanding, and took full advantage of the charred romaine trend. Chopped rows of charred romaine were neatly arranged on a wooden cutting board, and combined with a smoky Parmesan-bacon dressing, and some crunchy croutons.

An attempt at a lighter dish of fluke crudo with celery root, grapefruit slices, and dill was less successful. In comparison with the other dishes' bold flavors, this one fell a little flat – the predominant flavor was dill, and the fluke was under-seasoned. The grapefruit provided less citrus than was needed.

I would have liked to see more finesse in pulling off a lighter dish without sacrificing the bold flavors of the restaurant's more hearty offerings.

The middle-course star: quinoa tagliatelle

Pastas occupy the middle portion of the menu and work as either appetizers or mains. They are perhaps best used, however, as a mid-course shareable dish for the table. The best of the bunch is a house-made quinoa tagliatelle with cauliflower, lemon, and cumin, with crunchy quinoa on top.

This is a knockout dish, which no meal at Atrium is complete without. Preserved lemon provides a bold lemon flavor, while cumin oil adds a subtle – perhaps, too subtle – note of cumin. The cauliflower, hidden underneath the mold of tagliatelle, was well cooked.

The main courses are large portions and include an excellent roasted chicken for two, prepared two ways: the dark meat in a pot pie with a puffed puff pastry top, and the rest roasted with plenty of rosemary. Crispy potato wedges are served alongside dill crème fraîche. A cook presented the roasted chicken to us whole before departing to break it down.

The large roasted chicken for two (or more)

The roasted portion was tender and delicious, and I enjoyed that part of the dish the most. The pot pie had a decadent homemade puff pastry that I could easily eat by itself, but the chicken was hard to find and less impressive. The potato wedges were crispy and enjoyable by themselves; the dill crème fraîche seemed superfluous, though was tasty.

Another main topped with a puff pastry is the "Daube Provençal" – a hearty beef stew with bacon and a side of macaroni. It's unusual to see two of the five mains dishes at a restaurant topped with a similar, albeit excellent, puff pastry. The beef was nice and tender, though the broth was overly rich, especially when combined with pastry and macaroni.

The "Daube Provençal"

Atlantic cod seemed out of place with Asian flavors – it was served over subtle dashi, bok choy, daikon, and woodear mushrooms. The attempt at lighter fare was well thought out but under-seasoned.

A side of pommes purée with melted Gruyère was to die for, one of the best mashed potatoes I've had. Rich, no doubt, but without the overly buttery flavors of some other preparations.

Atrium is a welcome addition to the fine dining-starved section of Dumbo. With a few lighter dishes to go along with its excellent drinks, Atrium could also serve as a great neighborhood spot. I look forward to returning, especially when the weather gets warmer, accompanied by a stroll through nearby Brooklyn Bridge Park.

Atrium Dumbo
15 Main Street
Brooklyn, NY 11201
(718) 858-1095
atriumdumbo.com

Recommended dishes: cocktails ($13), lamb merguez ($12), beef tartare ($13), charred romaine ($11), quinoa tagliatelle ($16), roasted chicken for two ($28 per person)

New Orleans-Inspired Cuisine at Masq

2014-01-07T10:24:00.000-05:00

Masq's jambalaya with shrimp, andouille sausage, and a small dollop of creamy goat cheese

It's not easy to find a good jambalaya in New York, which is why I was so pleased with the version offered at Masq, a New Orleans-inspired American restaurant in Turtle Bay.

The restaurant's take on the classic rice dish was creamy and quite spicy, with shrimp and large chunks of sausage that were cooked nicely, not overdone. The heat came mainly from the andouille sausage with just a little help from cayenne. A small dollop of goat cheese on top was a nice touch, even if not traditional, mellowing out the heat and adding a smooth finish.

The lounge (foreground) and dining room

Masq channels the New Orleans spirit into an interior that is simultaneously comfortable and edgy. The space is adorned with masks and artwork featuring seductively masked figures, like Mona Lisa wearing a wry smile and a mask. A large mural of barely clothed women wearing masks spans an entire wall. The decor instills the sensation that something intriguing might be going on in the other room.

Co-owner Nora Chaprastian explained to us that the restaurant, located on a floor of a brownstone, was decorated in the style of a New Orleans townhouse and was meant to feel like a private home. A very eccentric person's home, perhaps. The owners furnished it with an eclectic set of antiques: purple velvet couches, intricate wooden chairs, old lamps, intriguing pieces of artwork.

A recent press dinner gave us the opportunity to try smaller portions of a number of Masq's fine offerings and to experience its unusual interior.

Fried mac & cheese with spicy remoulade

We were pleased to find that Executive Chef Marc Getzelman deftly showcases New Orleans's love for fried food, serving up crispy treats that are satisfying and not too heavy. Fried mac & cheese was impossible to resist, of course, served in spherical form over a stream of spicy remoulade. The mac & cheese itself was creamy and quite mild, and although it was fried the dish was light and not greasy. The remoulade was unnecessary and overwhelmed the main event; I didn't use it.

Crab cake with tartar sauce and more remoulade

The crab cake was surprisingly good, with meaty crab and only light breading. It was served with a duo of tartar sauce and more spicy remoulade. Made with a tart pickle relish, the tartar sauce was a knockout; so good that if my wife weren't looking I could eat it with a spoon.

Once again I did not understand the contribution of the remoulade, which suffered from having to compete with the superior tartar sauce. I'd leave it out. On the other hand, an oaked Franciscan Estate chardonnay from Napa paired by co-owner George Chaprastian from the restaurant's selective wine list did make a nice contribution, picking up the creaminess of the crab cake and the tartar.

Flatbread with prosciutto, goat cheese, figs and pecorino

The same remoulade reappeared again on a shrimp po' boy, but this time it worked. The shrimp were beautifully fried and juicy, served on a doughy Hawaiian roll with a hint of sweetness. A single slice of tomato and the heat from the remoulade rounded out the dish.

Sabayon with fresh berries

As far as non-fried dishes, of which there are many, we enjoyed a flatbread topped with the classic combination of prosciutto, goat cheese, figs, and pecorino. It was a great combination of flavors and textures, with slightly bitter arugula, a hint of sweetness from the figs, salty shaved pecorino, and sharp creamy goat cheese. A secret ingredient of gooey melted mozzarella helped hold the flatbread together.

For dessert we were excited to find an attractively presented glass of fresh berries with sabayon; a classic treat that has disappeared from most menus today. The custard was on the thin side and merely enhanced the fruit while letting the berries remain the star. It was spiked with a hint of marsala wine; a nice touch.

Living up to New Orleans's penchant for parties, Masq plays host to special events, and a microphone standing on a prominent triangular stage in the dining room welcomes guest performers. Behind a red velvet curtain in the back of the dining room, a private room furnished with antique furniture, Persian rugs and more masks has space for 45 people to enjoy a romantic (or rowdy) evening.

Masq
306 East 49th Street
New York, NY 10017
Tel. (212) 644-8294
http://www.masqny.com/

Recommended dishes: crab cake (3 for $19); prosciutto fig flatbread ($15); shrimp po' boy ($16); jambalaya ($17); sabayon with fresh berries.

Japanese Fusion at Aji53

2014-01-05T18:18:00.000-05:00

A beautiful assortment of sushi at Aji in Cobble Hill

Seared tuna tacos - fusion at its best

I have written before about my distaste for Japanese "fusion" restaurants, which are prone to offering dishes with half a dozen kinds of fish, sauces, and condiments – perhaps as a way to distract from having not the freshest of fish. That's why I was surprised that I enjoyed Aji 53, a newcomer to Cobble Hill's Smith Street scene, that serves inventive, yes, Japanese fusion dishes.

The key to Aji's success is that it doesn't sacrifice the fish's freshness, and it's dishes are focused, not overly complicated. These fusion dishes make use of inventive techniques to combine different flavors. For example, a light wasabi-infused oil gave a tempura appetizer its kick; and scallops were bathed in a black bean sauce combined with miso.

Fusion cocktails were also surprisingly delicious, like an awesome sake-sangria that was far lighter than most wine-based varieties.

Aji's best appetizer: yellowtail "shooters"

Sake trio

We started with a trio of sake glasses, deftly served on a banana leaf, and a good deal at only $7. The unfiltered Kizakura Nikori sake was a nice addition.

Next, I really enjoyed a special of yellowtail "shooters," served in little bowls and taken like a shot of tequila. Yellowtail is wrapped around white fish with a dose of yuzu and citrus, and sprinkled with wasabi. Its best appetizer, this was a great example of Aji's inventive, yet not over the top dishes. Just the right amount of citrus, yozu, and wasabi complimented the fresh yellowtail.

We also liked seared tuna with shrimp and yuzu, stuffed in crunchy tacos and drizzled with balsamic. An unlikely combination that actually worked, especially the contrast of textures.

Another inventive creation was Kuromame scallops – a dish of scallops with a black bean miso sauce and an assortment of mushrooms and asparagus. I wasn't expecting to like the combination of black beans sauce and miso, but it actually worked. The scallops were nicely cooked too.

Another good choice was a delicate warm mushroom salad with sauteed daily-changing wild mushroom served on a bed of warm spinach and dressed with olive oil and truffle puree.

The "Aji Sandwich" perhaps went a bit too far, however. The presentation was great: beautifully layered tempura eggplant is topped with spicy lobster and then salmon, with a miso dressing and wasabi oil. There were maybe one too many layers to the sandwich, and the flavors didn't come together as well as it could have. Perhaps the salmon could be done without or replaced with a milder fish like fluke.

Finally, onto the sushi: the nigiri was super fresh with long, healthy portions of fish draped over small balls of rice. Special rolls include the "Twister" with spicy lobster and grilled seabass inside, topped with a twist of tuna and avocado with drizzled wasabi oil.

The service was a step above most sushi places. Frequent plate changes and a sense of courses and meal pacing was appreciated. The restaurant also sports a sleek decor and an aqua-themed bar, where free appetizers are on offer during happy hour.

Aji 53
170 Smith St,
Brooklyn, NY, 11201
http://aji53brooklyn.com/

Recommended dishes: Yellowtail "shooters," tuna tacos, warm mushroom salad, Kuromame scallops, twister roll, sake sangria.

P.S. Aji also has two locations on Long Island, one in Smithtown and one in Bay Shore.

Casual Greek Fare at Faros in Park Slope

2014-01-03T09:55:00.000-05:00

Afroditi salad with figs, dried cranberries, and fried halloumi cheese at Faros in Park Slope.

There are few great restaurants in Park Slope. Happily, there are some solid neighborhood standbys offering satisfying meals that do the trick on a casual Friday evening.

Among those fine establishments is Faros, which offers Greek specialties in a relaxed atmosphere with a warm fireplace and good people watching on 7th Avenue. The menu offers everything you would expect to find at a neighborhood Greek restaurant: tzatziki, spanakopita, various other meze (make some of ours!), fresh fish, octopus, and grilled lamb chops. Most dishes are competent, some are very good, and all are served at affordable prices.

Grilled whole red snapper with lemon and olive oil

One of my favorites is a surprising salad called Afroditi, which offers a wonderful combination of flavors and textures: crisp-tender mixed greens, sweet chewy figs, tart dried cranberries, and firm salty fried halloumi cheese, all tied together with a light vinaigrette. Like paneer, halloumi holds its shape and texture when cooked, giving the salad a nice warmth and bite.

I can never resist the whole fish, grilled simply with extra virgin olive oil, lemon, parsley, and capers. Whole red snapper arrives nice and delicate with a mild sweetness. The greens on the plate are uninteresting, so I suggest a side of lemon roasted potatoes or Greek-style fries. The staff is happy to debone and butterfly the fish for you or leave it whole.

You'll be tempted to end the meal with a slice of baklava, but instead try the galaktoboureko, a semolina-based custard baked in crisp filo dough and soaked in a honey spiced syrup. You'll have the opportunity to pronounce the funny name and be rewarded with an excellent traditional dessert.

Faros Estiatorio
84 7th Avenue
Brooklyn NY 11217
Tel.: (718) 623-2767

Recommended dishes: Tzatziki ($7), Afroditi salad ($14), avgolemono soup ($7), zucchini with garlic potato puree ($10), whole fish (MP).

Middle Eastern Mezzes: Harissa, Pomegranate Tahini, and Beet & Za'atar Relish

2013-12-28T18:26:00.000-05:00


Spicy harissa (top left), pomegranate tahini with smoked paprika, and beet and za'atar relish

Entertaining over New Years? Skip the guac and salsa and make a mezze platter with these crowd-pleasing, beautifully colored, and delicious Middle Eastern-inspired spreads:

Harissa, a smoky and spicy Tunisian hot sauce made from a base of roasted peppers. While it's great as a dip, it also goes very well as a condiment for grilled meat or fish, stir fried vegetables, or even on top of scrambled eggs.

Pomegranate Tahini, combines sesame tahini with Greek yogurt, the tang of lemons, and a hint of pomegranate sweetness.

Beet & Za'atar relish, roasted beets and the popular Middle Eastern spice mix combine with Greek yogurt for a sweet and savory relish.

All of these spreads are easy to make in a food processor or blender. Get the za'atar and pomegranate molasses online (click the links) or visit your local Middle Eastern market. Serve with toasted pita.

Beet & Za'atar Relish

5 medium-sized beets
3/4 cup Greek yogurt
1 1/2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses
2 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons plus more to taste za'atar

1. Follow our method of roasting beets: preheat oven to 400 degrees. Trim beets and wash them thoroughly. Then dry slightly but while still damp wrap individually in tin foil. Put in the oven for around 45 minutes until a sharp knife easily penetrates the center of the beets.

2. Meanwhile, make the other spreads!

3. When the beets are done, cool, and remove the skins. You can use paper towels if you don't want your hands to become red with beet juice. Puree the beets with the other ingredients.

4. Serve, topped with more za'atar.

Harissa

3 red peppers
1 small can diced tomatoes
2 medium red onions
3 Thai chilis
4 cloves garlic
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin
1 1/2 tablespoons ground coriander
1 cup parsley
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon smoked paprika
Juice from 3 lemons
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1. Grill or broil the red peppers until they are black and charred. Allow to cool slightly and, if you'd like, remove the skins, by rubbing the peppers with paper towels.

2. Puree all of the ingredients in a large food processor or blender, adding a generous amount of salt and pepper.

3. Serve, topped with chopped parsley.

Pomegranate Tahini

3/4 cup tahini
2 cloves garlic
1/2 cupparsley, mint, or a combination of the two
2/3 cup Greek Yogurt
1/4 cup lemon juice plus grated zest of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon pomegranate molasses
About 3/4 cup water

1. Mince the garlic cloves and roughly chop the herbs.

2. In a large mixing bowl, add the tahini, garlic, herbs, yogurt, lemon juice and zest, pomegranate molasses, and some salt and pepper. Stir well as you slowly add the water. You want to end up with a thick but pourable consistency, similar to honey. Stop adding the water when you reach the desired consistency.

3. Serve, topped with smoked paprika.

Total time: 1 hour 15 minutes for all three spreads.

Makes a lot of each, enjoy the leftovers!

Easy Everyday Pancakes

2013-12-26T23:08:00.000-05:00

Every year, Melissa and I spend a long weekend in Vermont at a country bed & breakfast called the Henry Farm Inn. In the fall, we go to see the leaves turning bright red, orange, and yellow. In the winter, it's skiing at nearby Okemo. Whatever time of year it is, we look forward to waking up to pancakes made by our innkeeper Pat and served with Green Mountain Coffee poured by her husband Paul.

I've developed somewhat of an obsession with pancakes ever since I figured out how to make them with little more than flour, milk, butter, and eggs. I serve them with a nice cup of coffee and delicious maple syrup from Mitch's Maples, the self-service maple syrup store down the road from our inn. Sometimes I add blueberries, and Melissa always asks for chocolate chips.

Easy Everyday Pancakes

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
3 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 egg
1 1/4 cups milk
canola or vegetable oil (for cooking)
Optional toppings: berries, chocolate chips, sliced bananas

1. Melt the butter in the microwave and beat the egg. Sift together the flour, baking powder, salt, and sugar into a large bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the butter, egg, and milk.

2. Mix gently with a spoon. The finished batter should be mostly smooth with no loose flour, but some lumps are fine and will cook out. Do not over-mix or the pancakes will become rubbery.

3. Heat a large nonstick frying pan or griddle over medium-high heat. Leave it alone for a few minutes to get hot. When it is hot, add a tablespoon or so of canola oil and swirl the pan to coat the surface evenly.

4. Spoon the batter into the pan, using about two heaping tablespoons per pancake. Add berries or chocolate chips if you wish on top of each pancake. When the surface of the pancake bubbles, peek underneath with a spatula and, if it is nicely golden-brown, flip the pancake over. When the other side is golden, remove it to a plate. Repeat with the remaining batter, adding a little more oil to the pan in between each batch. Serve immediately with real maple syrup.

Total time: 20 minutes
Makes 4-6 servings

Recipe adapted from allrecipes.

A Taste: Tacos at Haab in Park Slope and Williamsburg

2013-12-01T11:57:00.001-05:00

The rise of the authentic Mexican taco in New York City is one of the most promising food trends of the last several years. The days that "Mexican cuisine" meant nothing more than mediocre Tex-Mex food are now a thing of the past, with local taquerias serving up juicy roasted meats, crispy fish and other creative offerings on small corn tortillas for a few bucks each.

Haab brings the taco tradition to Brooklyn at its casual Park Slope and Williamsburg locations. It offers classics like tacos al pastor with juicy roasted pork, grilled steak, and crispy fish with cabbage and chipotle mayo. There are also some more creative offerings, like tacos with duck confit, roasted lamb, or cactus with avocado and queso fresco.

Perhaps my favorite is the classic papas con chorizo, in which the smokey chorizo is balanced by soft crushed potatoes, shredded cabbage, and fresh cream. Fiery pickled jalapeños and fresh tomatoes top off a simple dish with complex flavors and textures.

Haab Park Slope
396 6th Ave (Corner of 7th St & 6th Ave)
Brooklyn, NY 11215
Tel. (718) 369-0849
http://www.haabnyc.com/

Haab Williamsburg
202 Leonard St (between Maujer St & Grand St)
Brooklyn, NY 11206
Tel. (718) 388-4261
http://www.haabnyc.com/

View Haab in a larger map