Today’s travels will take us to the northern section of the Jezreel Valley, with a drive over the Gilboa mountain range, into the Jordan River valley. The area, though relatively compact, is replete with historical and biblical significance,  and is often referenced in the Old and New Testament. Our journey will first take us to the ornate basilica  on the top of  Mt. Tabor, venerated by Christians as the site of Jesus’ Transfiguration. After a stop at one of Israel’s premier art museums at Kibbutz Ein Harod, we will make our way to nearby Ma’ayan Harod National Park, at whose spring, it is said, Gideon chose his most capable warriors in the  battle of the Israelites against the Midianites. A scenic excursion over the adjacent Gilboa mountains will  lead us to the impressive 6th century  Zodiac mosaic at the Beit Alpha Synagogue. At  nearby Gan Hashlosha, a swim break, or a visit to an Australian themed nature preserve to visit kangaroos and koalas, will delight the kids. Later in the afternoon, (after an optional visit to Beit Shean and an overnight stay at a kibbutz), it’s on to visit a majestic Crusader era castle and the museum site of a former kibbutz and hydroelectric power plant at the Israel-Jordan border.

From Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem it’s about a 90 minute drive to Mt. Tabor. Take route 6 to the “Iron” exit and proceed north through the ” Wadi Ara” toward Afula. You’ll be traveling on Route 65 through the Arab villages of Umm el Fahm and Musmus, following the path taken by Egyptian forces led by Pharaoh Thutmose III  more than 3400 years ago. As you wind your way down from the heights, you’ll note Tel Megiddo on the left, which merits a long visit if you are an archaeology buff. This is also the site, as referenced  in some Christian liturgy, as the future Armageddon.

You have  now entered the Jezreel valley, called in Hebrew Emek Yisrael, which today is home to countless moshavim and kibbutzim, harvesting much of Israel’s grain, cotton, produce and sunflowers. In antiquity, the valley saw epic battles between the Egyptians and the King of Kadesh, Gideon and the Midianites, Saul and the Philistines, and Romans against Jewish forces. In modern times, Napoleon led his French troops through the valley, as did General Allenby in his advance against Ottoman forces in World War I.

Follow Route 65, a very straight road laid by the Romans, and known in Hebrew as Hasargel, i.e. measuring stick or ruler. The road then meanders through the businees/industial section of Afula, toward a large, but gently slopping hill in the distance, known as Mt. Tabor.

Continue on Route 65 past the McDonalds sign and drive beyond the turn-off to Dabburiya on route 7266. Circling around the mountain, turn left and drive several kilometers through the village of Shibly. You may wish to leave your car at the visitor center parking lot and take a taxi up the mountain, or if you are an adventurous driver, you can follow the narrow road through its 16 hairpin turns, to the summit. Visiting hours to the basilica are daily from 8 to 11:45 and 2 to 5, and from 8 to 11:30 on Shabbat and holidays.

Mt. Tabor was shaped by volcanic forces which have left visible traces of basalt at its base and ascent. During the Ottoman period  the entire mound, as well as much of Palestine, was deforested. However, the evergreens  and other indigenous trees that you see on the hillside today were planted after the First World War, through the efforts of  the KKL/JNF. Though the scenery along the drive up the mountain is dramatic, you’ll have a better opportunity to later admire Israel’s north from the roof of the basilica.

Proceed through the impressive Crusader era arched entrance, to the parking lot ahead. If you are wearing shorts, now may be a good time to slip on long pants, as entrance to the compound may be precluded if you are  dressed immodestly. Take a few moments to walk through the cactus and flower gardens to admire the excavations and archaeological artifacts, before heading up to the roof of the church. There, spread before you is the Gilboa mountain range, the Jezreel valley, to the east the mountains of  Gilead in today’s Kingdom of Jordan, and to the north, in the distance,  Mt. Hermon.

In the early days of the Jewish people these lands were divided among the tribes of Naphtali, Zebulun, and Issachar, and all three tribes bordered the mound we today call Tabor (Joshua 19:22). Antiquity also saw the creation of important roads near the mound leading from Egypt to Damascus and beyond. These roads and their branches, known as the Via Maris, were further improved by the Romans and subsequent conquerors of the Holy Land.

As you overlook the valley below, try to imagine the scene described in Judges 4 and 5, where a force of thousands of  Canaanites under the leadership of Sisera,  was bivouacked on the land near the mountain. These were the days when the tribes of Israel were led by the Prophetess Deborah who summoned General Barak, from the tribe of Naphtali, and said to him:

” The Lord, the God of Israel, commands you: Go, take with you 10,000 men of Naphtali, and Zebulun, and lead the way to Mt. Tabor. I will draw Sisera, the commander of Yaniv’s army, with his chariots and his troops to the Kishon river, and give him onto your hands”

The biblical narrative goes on to tell us that in the midst of a violent storm Barak brought his men down from the summit of Mt. Tabor to route Sisera’s forces whose 900 chariots became mired in the mud of the Jezreel valley. As foretold by Deborah, Sisera himself was later killed by a woman who drove a spike into his temple as he slept in her tent.

Jewish forces were not so lucky, when during Roman rule, over 10,000 men lost their lives near Mt. Tabor during one of the Hasmonean rebellions. Later, in 66 A.D., the mountain served as a temporary sanctuary to Jews from the Galilee under the command of Josephus Flavius.

Of course, Roman rule was also the time of Jesus’ preaching’s, and for Christians Mt. Tabor has special significance as the place of Jesus’ Transfiguration. Tradition holds that upon the mountain Jesus became radiant, and in the company of his disciples, spoke with Moses and Elijah (Luke 9:28-36), and was called “Son” by God ( Mathew 17:1-9).

During the Byzantine period the mountain,  became known as the Hill of Transfiguration, and Christians began to celebrate this miracle with the erection of a monastery and several churches on  the summit. These structures were subsequently destroyed by the Mamelukes, rebuilt by the Crusaders, and destroyed again in subsequent battles. The current basilica, designed by the Franciscan architect, Antoine Barluzzi, was completed in 1924 and is set upon the ruins of earlier churches. As you spend time in the basilica, be sure to admire the, use of arches throughout,  three naves which are separated by two rows of columns with their intricate floral carvings, as well as the gilded mosaic above the alter portraying Jesus’ Transfiguration. Jesus’ conversations with Moses and Elijah are commemorated in each of the chapels located in the bell towers.

Let’s take a last  look at this mosaic of colors stretched out before us as we descend from Mt. Tabor  to our next destination. At the bottom of the hill turn right and follow route 65 to route 716, where you will turn left to Kibbutz Ein Harod (Ichud). As it may not be easy to find the art museum on the kibbutz grounds, don’t hesitate to ask for directions.

The museum has come a very long way from its meager beginnings in 1937 housing artifacts in a wooden shack. These early collections were gathered by Chaim Atar, a member of  Kibbutz Ein Harod, who had settled in Israel in 1922. As a painter, Atar was influenced by the School of Paris, and his many  portraits include family and his neighbors on the kibbutz. The current structure was completed in 1948 during Israel’s War of Independence, and as such, it was the first museum to be built in the nascent state. As you stroll through the expansive galleries and courtyards you  will no doubt appreciate the architect’s use of natural light to highlight the exhibitions.Though buildings in the Bauhaus School are prevalent throughout Tel-Aviv, it’s quite unusual to find its representation in rural Israel, especially in the form of modernist museum architecture.

Today, the museum’s collection exceeds 16,000 paintings, drawings, prints, artifacts, sculpture and Judaica, some of which dates to the 17th century. The museum features ongoing solo exhibitions, most recently featuring such well known Israeli artists as Gabriel Klasmer, Moshe Gershuni, Uri Lifshitz and Tzibi Geva. Internationally recognized sculptors have their works displayed in the museum, but especially in the tree lined courtyards. In fact the museum’s cafe offers an excellent al fresco lunch, permitting  you to sit comfortably surrounded by stone and bronze masterpieces.  Also, a new auditorium  to accommodate  large groups is nearing completion. Visiting hours to the museum are daily from 9 to 4:30, Fridays and holidays 9 to 1:30 and Saturday 10-4:30. You may also wish to call  04-653 -1670 before visiting  the museum.

It’s a short drive from Kibbutz Ein Harod to our next destination, Ma’ayan Harod (Harod Spring). Turn left out of the kibbutz and proceed to route 71, turn right, then left following the sign to Ma’ayan Harod. The national park is situated at the foot of the Gilboa mountains and offers visitors the opportunity to visit a spring with a significant biblical connection and the burial site of Yehousha and Olga Hankin. Group reservations to visit the Hankin museum can be made by calling 04-653 -2211.

Park your car near the concession stand and make your way to the trail or steps leading up to the small white house on the ridge. This Bauhaus structure was built by Yehousha Hankin in 1936 as the place to which he and his wife Olga would one day retire. This unfortunately did not come to pass, but immediately adjacent thereto is their final resting place. The ornate style of the  mausoleum, use of columns and rose and pink colored marble, intentionally replicates the rabbinic tombs in nearby Beit She’arim.

Adjacent is a KKL/JNF memorial plaque which enumerates the amount of land Hankin purchased during the first quarter of the 20th century on behalf of the World Zionist Organization, the Jewish National Fund, and other organizations, in what is today the Jezreel Valley, Rehovot, Hadera, Akko, and Emek Hefer. His knowledge of Turkish law, fluency in Arabic, and intimate knowledge of the customs of the local Arab population, permitted Hankin to successfully negotiate transactions valued at hundreds of thousands of dollars with absentee Arab landowners in Beirut and Damascus. Much of this purchase was malarial swamp, and it was only through the tireless efforts of Jewish pioneers, that this land was transformed into the rich farmland that we viewed earlier today from Mt. Tabor.

As you descend the cliff make a point to stop at the sculpture memorializing the soldiers who have fallen during Israel’s many wars defending the land that Hankin had purchased. As the sculpture commemorates the heroism of the young fighters of modern day Israel, so does the area immediately below harken back to the battles of the biblical Israelites.

At the foot of the cliff there is a small spring-fed stream and cave. It is here that you can take a moment to reflect upon the passages in Judges that speak of the unconventional test performed by Gideon in choosing his men for the battle against the Midianites.

“Early in the morning (Gideon) and his men camped at the spring of Harod…..Three hundred men lapped with their hands to their mouths, all the rest got down to their hands to drink…….Gideon sent the rest of the Israelites to their tents, but kept the three hundred men.” (Judges 7:1-8)

The biblical passage goes on to speak of the success of Gideon’s troops, who under the cover of darkness used only torches, trumpets and jars to over come a much larger fighting force. Interestingly, it is with this battle in mind, that a devout Christian serving in the British army in the 1930’s and 1940s, chose to train Jewish fighters at the spring in the use of unconventional fighting methods. Today, Orde Wingate, a decorated British army officer, and lover of the Jewish people, is revered among Israelis for his friendship and for the instrumental role that he played in the training of Israel’s first military commanders.

We will now make our way to the nearby Beit Alpha Synagogue via a scenic drive over the Gilboa mountains. Exit the national park to the left and continue on route 71 to route 675. There, on a hill, you will pass a new complex known as the “Gilboa Gateway” with its cafes, ski lift and synthetic grass and snow ski slope. Ascending from the foothills to the heights you’ll travel on route 6724 through a dense forest of evergreens. During your drive, you’ll find numerous picnic groves created by the KKL/JNF, some of which are named for King Saul’s family, scenic lookouts to the shimmering pools of the fish farms in the valley below and hiking trails along the ridge.

It is on Gilboa that Saul, the first king of Israel, and his son Jonathan, were killed in battle against the Philistines. David lamented the death of his friend Jonathan when he proclaimed ” Ye mountain of Gilboa, let there be no dew, nor rain upon you, neither fields of choice fruits…”(II Samuel I: 19-27). However, today if you are fortunate enough to visit Gilboa in late winter, you may have the opportunity to see fields of cyclamen, crocuses and daffodils carpeting its slopes. By March, the unique Gilboa Iris attracts thousands of Israelies to the mountain range, so watch out for traffic jams!

We will now make our way to the Beit Alpha Synagogue to view one of the most beautiful and interesting mosaics ever found in Israel. Use route 6666 to descend from Mt. Gilboa and at route 669 turn left following the brown signs to the antiquities. Make your first stop at the Beit Alpha National Park  the model of the synagogue in the court yard which depicts its use during the 6th century. Note that the synagogue had a second story which accommodated women sitting in the balcony, a feature that was not reconstructed by the archaeologists.

The Beit Alpha Synagogue was excavated in 1929 by the Hebrew University under the direction of the well respected archaeologist E.L.Sukenik.  The excavators established that a tiled roof covered the sanctuary which was divided by two aisles with columns, and an apse containing the Torah. However,  the most noteworthy finding was the colorful and naive mosaic which carpets the entire floor of the synagogue. The upper panel of the mosaic depicts traditional Jewish ritual objects including an intricately carved Aron Kodesh ( holy ark), a candelabra and two lions, while the lower panel, in a cartoon-like fashion, tells us the story of the near sacrifice of Isaac.

Most beautifully depicted however, is the Zodiac centered in the middle of the floor. The twelve astrological signs are accompanied by their Hebrew names and in the center, constellations surround the sun god Helios who is seated in a chariot drawn by four horses.  In the  corners, busts of winged women symbolize the four seasons of the year. But there is something most unusual about this Zodiac as compared to those that most of us are familiar with. Here, the signs move counterclockwise and are not aligned to correspond with the representation of the four seasons! Many scholars believe that the Beit Alpha Zodiac was used solely for decorative purposes, as by the 6th century its use had become common in other synagogues throughout the land of Israel. Imported initially from Persia to Palestine, the use of the Zodiac was condemned by the prophets as a  desecration of the Second Commandment “not to make a likeness of the heavens above”. However, over time the use of astrology became accepted in the land as the Jewish People adapted to their pagan and Christian environments.

You can learn much more about the use of the Zodiac, the artists that designed the mosaic, the synagogue’s destruction during an earthquake, and the excavation, during the movie presented before your self guided walking tour. Visiting hours at the national park are daily 8-4 and Fridays and holidays 8-3.  Summer hours extend one hour later. You may wish to call ahead at 04-653-2004 for further information.

We will now proceed to our next destination a short distance away. From Beit Alpha return to Route 669  in the direction of Beit Shean, and then turn right toward the Gan Hashlosha National Park. Here, you and the kids can enjoy a warm swim in the spring fed Amal stream which has been enlarged into several large natural pools surrounded by lush foliage and slopping lawns. These pools are one  of  the main attractions of the national park known as Gan Hashlosha, the garden of the three. The Hebrew name memorializes three Jewish settlers who were killed in 1938  during the Arab Riots of 1936-1939. The park is also commonly known by its Arabic name el-Sakhne, and today is a favorite gathering spot for visitors to Israel, Jewish residents of nearby kibbutzim and moshavim and Arab families from nearby villages.

You can easily spend several hours at the park soaking in the sunshine, exploring a cascading waterfall, jumping off the rocks into the constant 82 degree (F) water or barbequing a meal. A short walk will take you to a restored water powered mill as well as a Madafeh, a traditional Arab hospitality room. A stroll through the regional archaeological museum, which houses some artifacts from nearby Beit Shean, and an exhibit about the Etruscans, may also be of interest. The swimming areas are usually staffed by lifeguards and changing rooms are available for bathers. Visiting hours during the summer are 8-5 and Fridays and holidays 8-4. The park closes one hour earlier in winter.

Near the entrance to the park you may have noticed a large wooden tower. This structure is a replica of  Tel Amal, built by residents of Beit Alpha, and is typical of the towers and stockades that were established  by the Jewish Agency in Mandatory Palestine in 1936. Fiftyseven of these structures, constructed in large part by prefabricated segments, were erected during one night throughout the country as a defensive measure against marauding Arabs. Not unlike the American fort, the stockade provided protection to settlers and the tower a means of recognizance.

During the three year Arab Riots (1936-1939) this line of towers and stockades served as an effective mechanism guarding newly established kibbutzim and moshavim, and as a way to establish a Jewish presence along the Mandatory borders. A short film inside the stockade provides detailed information about this period of time, while a walk through the living quarters sheds light on the cramped and primitive living conditions of these early settlers.

Nearby, the Gan Garoo will delight children and adults alike. Established with the assistance of the Australian government, the 4 acre park brings a bit of Australia to Israel with its representative flora and fauna. You can easily walk the grounds of the park to mingle with kangaroos, wallabies and walaroos lazily lounging under shady Eucalyptus trees. You’ll have fun observing the koalas dangling from the trees and watching an assortment of  flying foxes (bats), cockatoos and emus. Also, don’t miss the adjacent gift shop for educational materials and everything Australian.

The excavations at  nearby Bet Shean merit a visit of several hours and are beyond the scope of this blog. If you choose to stay overnight in the immediate area to visit Bet Shean and  then continue with our itinerary, Kibbutz Nir David near Gan Hashlosha may be most convenient.

We will now continue our “off the beaten path”  adventure to Israel’s best preserved Crusader era castle, Belvoir. Return to Route 71 and proceed east toward  Route 90 via Beit Shean. Travel north on this scenic Jordan valley road for approximately 30 minutes, and then follow the sign for the six mile drive up the mountain.

The Order of the Hospitalers aptly named their castle Belvoir, beautiful view. In Hebrew it is known as Kochav Hayarden, the Star of the Jordan, preserving the name of the nearby Jewish village of Kochav which had been inhabited during the Byzantine and Roman eras. During your self guided tour of the castle you will notice several pieces of masonry with Jewish images, including an engraved menorah, that were taken from the abandoned village by the builders of Belvoir. In Arabic the site is known as Kaukab al-Hawa, star of the wind, best described by the medieval historian Abu Sharma, as a place “amidst the stars like an eagle’s nest and abode of the moon”.

The castle is situated on a precipice 1,500 feet above the Jordan river on the Naphtali plateau, opposite the mountains of Gilead, and 20 kilometers south of the Sea of Galillee. Based on its strategic location, the Hospitalers purchased a small feudal estate from the French nobleman Velos and in the 12th century built a magnificent fortress on the mountain. The castle became part of a series of  defensive positions  along the rift valley stretching  from Nimrod and Safed in the north, in an effort to secure the eastern flank of the Crusader Kingdom of Jerusalem from Muslim attack.

The fortress was designed as an early example of the concentric castle plan with a 10 meter deep moat surrounding a rectangular wall with towers at each end, and a well-fortified, two storey citadel,  within.  The moat was incorporated into the castle’s defensive design to protect the it from siege instruments, such as the battering ram and the assault tower.  However, ultimately the successful breach came from the  south east, along the slope of the mountain, to which area the moat did not extend.

Nevertheless, the Crusaders at Belvoir withstood the army of Saladin for 18 months longer than their brethren who perished on mass in 1187 at the decisive battle at the nearby Horns of Hittin. And in the end, Saladin’s forces could not breach Belvoir’s impenetrable citadel, permitting an honorable surrender  negotiated with the Christian fighters who were resettled in Tyre.  To the Muslim rulers in Damascus, Belvoir’s continued presence appeared so fearsome that the remaining walls of the fortress were dismantled to preclude any thoughts of a reconquest by subsequent Crusader armies.

Israeli archaeologists excavated the site in the 1960s, and its reconstruction permitted the opening of a national park some years thereafter. Today, the national park authority provides an excellent brochure eloquently describing  points of interest inside the fortress. As you enter the main gate, be sure to look for the doorposts and square grooves which held large wooden doors in place. Then as you walk through the network of corridors note the defensive use of harder basalt stone in some areas, the strategically placed loopholes (archery slits) in the arched windows, and the main entrance to the citadel with its 90 degree hairpin turns precluding easy access to invading forces. As you walk from the inner fortress toward the bridge, look for the hidden staircase to the moat which would have provided the defenders with an easy avenue escape during the siege. The castle is a fun place to explore and it’s observation points offer vistas not often found in Israel.

We will now return to route 90 and drive several kilometers north to visit “Old Gesher” near the confluence of the Yarmuk and Jordan rivers. Old Gesher (bridge in Hebrew) is the name given to a museum, a number of stone buildings and a model hydraulic power plant that now occupy the site of a kibbutz that thrived there until Israel’s War of Independence.

In the early years of the 20th century, Baron Edmund de Rothschild purchased land in Ottoman controlled Palestine in an effort to resettle Jewish European victims of pogroms while establishing commercial opportunities for himself.( see blogs for Zichron Yaakov and Rishon Le Zion). In 1939, at the behest of the Jewish Agency, members of the Jewish Palestinian youth movement HaNo’ar HaOved, together with newly arrived refugees from Europe, established a Tower and Stockade settlement on land purchased years earlier through  the Baron’s generosity.

During the next decade the settlement evolved into Kibbutz Gesher, many of whose 120 residents farmed the fertile fields of the Jordan valley. Its strategic location made the kibbutz a target for attack, and indeed in April and May of 1948 it endured an onslaught of  Iraqi and Arab Legion forces. While 50 of the children were evacuated to Haifa under the cover of darkness, the rest of of the members of the Kibbutz and soldiers from the Golani Brigade, held their ground at the sttlement and the adjacent British police station. This ‘Tegart”  fortress-style station, similar to those on route  35 in the Negev and at the route 1 Latrun Junction,  can only be viewed from the outside. However, this bullet and mortar pocked building today stands as a silent reminder of the ferocity of the attack and the bravery of the defenders of the kibbutz. Gesher was almost completely destroyed during the war of independence, and only after a peace agreement with Jordan was signed in 1994 did reconstruction of some of the original buildings commence.

Park your car near the kiosk and walk to the border fence to view the remains of the ancient Kahn (inn), the railroad tracks and the three bridges in front of you. The oldest bridge, known as Jeser el-Majama, or meeting bridge, dates back 2,000 years to the Roman era, and connected the east and west banks of the Jordan river as an extension of the Via Maris. The railway bridge was built in 1904 by the German engineer Meisner, who developed  the “Valley of the Train” connecting the cities of Haifa and Damascus permitting Muslim worshipers in the region to make their Hajj to Mecca.  The third bridge was completed by the British in 1925 as part of the road linking Beit Shean and Tiberias along with its northwest extension to Jordan and Iraq. All three bridges were intentionally bombed by Israeli forces in 1948 to preclude their use by invading Arab legion and Iraqi forces.

An audio visual presentation  recreating the history of “Old Gesher” can be viewed at the former fighters’ bunker which now serves as a visitors center. There, you can also visit the former medical clinic, kitchen and communications room used by the defenders of the kibbutz.

Perhaps most interesting is the model of the Naharayim power plant that was developed by the kibbutz in cooperation with the Israel Electric Company. Children will especially enjoy walking through the system of dams and bridges complete with a tower and turbine room, all the while hearing the sound of running water accompanied with flashes of light and color. Remains of the actual power plant can be viewed in the distance as you stand in the courtyard of the former kibbutz.

A better  view of the former hydraulic power plant can be had several kilometers north on route 90 at Naharayim. There, a tour guide from the adjacent Kibbutz Ashdot Yaakov can provide two excellent tours of the realized vision of the father of Israeli electricity, Pinchas Rutenberg.

On the first tour, the guide will lead you on a partial driving and walking tour along the Yarmouk river from the bridge above the 1,300 meter long concrete canal known as the “Zero canal” through an observation of the “access dam” and the remains of the destroyed “train dam”. You’ll have the opportunity to view the area which served as the former water reservoir, lake Nahahrayim, and the nearby Bauhuas style turbine engine rooms.

The second  tour, which is done almost exclusively by car, permits you and your guide to actually enter the Kingdom of Jordan to visit the Island of Peace. The 1994 peace agreement between Israel and Jordan created a special regime for a portion of land that had been previously used by Rutenberg’s hydraulic power plant complex.The island was returned to Jordanian sovereignty , but leased back to Israel for agricultural and tourism purposes. Access to the island requires a brief border inspection but does provide closer access to view the various hydraulic installations.

The island is also the site of the 1997 murder of  seven Israeli school girls by a Jordanian soldier, an event that prompted King Hussein to personally visit each of the girls’  grieving families in Israel to express the sorrow of his Jordanian subjects.  Their memory is today beautifully commemorated  on ” the picked flowers hill” behind the tourist kiosk. A climb up to the  adjacent observation tower provides a striking view of the memorial and the vast system of bridges, canals and abandoned buildings below. Reservations to tour  the Island Of Peace can be made by calling Kibbutz Ashdot Yaakov  04-670-9143. Visiting hours at Old Gesher are Saturday-Thursday 10:00-4:00, Friday 9:00 to 1:00. Further information van be had by calling 04-675-2685.

You can now continue your tour of the Jordan Valley by returning to Route 90 and proceeding north to Tiberias and the religious sites at the Sea of Galilee. Look for future blogs discussing these in detail.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources: Israel Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Israel Nature and Parks Authority

Kibbutz Gesher

Kibbutz Ashdod Yaakov

Museum of Art, Kibbutz Ein Harod

Today’s “off the beaten path” travels will take us to the north-western section of Israel’s breadbasket, the Jezreel Valley, to observe the impact that Muslims, Christians and Jews had on the development of Palestine at the beginning of the 20th century. We will explore the renovated Ottoman-era train station at Kfar Yehoshua, through which Muslim pilgrims from Haifa and surrounding villages passed on their way to The Haj in Mecca, as well as the agricultural Templer and Evangelical Protestant communities of Bet Lehem Ha Glilit and Alonei Abba. At the end of our day we will jump back 2,000 years in time to visit the remains of an ancient Jewish city and cemetery with its ornate tombs at the nearby Bet She’ Arim National Park.

Travel time between Tel-Aviv and our first destination will be between 60 and 90 minutes. Follow the coastal road, Route 2, to the Zichron Yaakov exit. Then follow Route 70 past Bat Shlomo and Elyakim through the town of Yokneam. Alternatively, you can take Route 6 from Jerusalem or Tel-Aviv and exit at Yokneam. Turn right at the Hatishbi junction onto Route 722, and then shortly thereafter, take another right at the brown directional sign toward the Hejaz railroad station and Moshav Kfar Yehoshua. Follow this road for several kilometers and at the circle take the first right toward the old stone buildings.

You have now entered the Jezreel Valley, called in Hebrew Emek Yisrael, which today is home to countless moshavim and kibbutzim harvesting much of Israel’s grain, cotton, produce and sunflowers. In antiquity the valley saw epic battles between the Egyptians under the leadership of Pharaoh Thutmose III, and the King of Kadesh, Gideon and the Midianites, Saul and the Philistines, and Romans against Jewish forces. In modern times, Napoleon led his French troops through the valley as did General Allenby in his advance against Ottoman forces in World War I.

A decade before the outbreak of the the war, the Ottoman Sultan commissioned the laying of a railroad line through the Jezreel Valley for strategic military reasons and as a way to facilitate the pilgrimage of his subjects in Palestine to the holy cities of Mecca and Medina. Of course, the Sultan hoped that his magnanimity would also bolster his image as the head of Islam throughout the Muslim world.

The Sultan engaged the services of the German engineer Heinrich Meissner, whose team of European trained professionals, supported by 10,000 Ottoman soldiers, completed the railroad’s Jezreel Valley leg in 1905 by linking Haifa with the Hejaz Damascus line in the Jordan Valley. (Remnants of this line can be viewed at Naharayim, off of Route 90 in the Jordan Valley.) Three years later the remainder of the route to Mecca was completed by Meissner’s team, permitting Palestinian Muslims to more easily travel to the Arabian peninsula.

Steam locomotion was the only means by which the train could be powered and that required sources of water and timber along the route. Luckily, well water was found near the entrance to the Jezreel Valley, which for Meissner, proved to be an excellent location to develop the Tal Ish-shammam train station. Following identical blueprints from stations built throughout the Ottoman Empire, Meissner built seven stone buildings and a water tower, which we will visit today.

The first decades of the 20th century also saw a marked increase in the development of Jewish agricultural settlements in Palestine, with kibbutzim and moshavim being built near water and railroad lines whenever possible. The founders of Kfar Yehoshua understood the value of locating their new settlements near the Tal Ish-shammam train station as it would open markets for their produce in Haifa and other seacoast communities. The train also served as a communication life line between the Jewish settlements in the Jezreel Valley as farmers standing along the route could exchange information with passengers on the slow moving steam train.

With the collapse of the Ottoman Empire the name of the train station was ultimately changed to that of the nearby moshav, Kfar Yehoshua, and the route through the Jezreel Valley became affectionately known as the “railroad of the valley”.  During the British Mandate, the train became part of the British railway system and three  daily trains travelled between the settlements. The line and station were abandoned during Israel’s War of Independence, and it was not until several years ago that the Society for the Preservation of Historical Sites in Israel decided to rehabilitate the site.

Pull into the parking area adjacent to the iron fence surrounding a complex of beautifully restored stone buildings, train carriages and a water tower. Make your first stop the deputy station master’s house which today serves as a childrens’ arts and craft workshop. At the adjacent visitors center, which was formerly the station masters home, you can examine artifacts, maps, train schedules and other memorabilia hearkening back to the days when the station was in use. You can also view an assemblage of black and white photos depicting passengers at other railroad stations in Palestine. Most impressive though are the early photographs of the train making its way through the Jezreel Valley, and later standing to take on water and passengers at Kfar Yehoshua. A short film, which can also be viewed with an English narration, incorporates vintage movies and pictures of the train, Ottoman officials, and neighboring moshavim and kibbutzim. The movie should be of interest to children as well, as it effectively uses graphics and humorous pop-ups to tell the story of the valley of the train. Across from the visitors center are two restored train carriages which sometimes also serve as an art gallery. Interestingly, the railway car’s old wooden sleepers are now being reused as benches in the movie screening room. And, not far from the old station, new tracks are being laid to once again connect Haifa and Beit Shean!

The valley of the train visitors center is open daily from 9-2. The contact number for the site is 04-9534226 or 052-722-0139.

Return to Route 722 and turn right for approximately 3 kilometers. Turn right again at Route 75 and then immediately left on Route 7513. Follow this hilly and forested road for several miles in the direction of Allonei Abba, but pass this moshav for now and proceed a short distance to a dirt road leading to the Herb and Spice Farm. The farm merits a short visit, especially on Saturdays as you can enjoy a good cup of coffee and some home baked cake or cookies on the patio overlooking the fields of the Jezreel Valley. However, the rich aroma of hundreds of spices will no doubt entice you to spend some time in the store, where the helpful staff can be of invaluable assistance. Be sure to wander through the herb plantings in front and behind the store and to pick up the English language handout describing the medicinal effects and recipes for twenty popular spices including anise, cumin, turmeric and mustard seed. The farm is open daily from 8:30 to 6, but closes one hour earlier on Friday.

Now retrace your steps back to the entrance of Alonei Abba/Waldheim and follow the main road, past the modern community, to the vine covered stone church. It is no coincidence that the two main streets of the village, with the church at their center, take the form of a cross, as the village was founded by Christian Germans affiliated with the Prussian Evangelical Church. These Protestant settlers were initially part of the Haifa branch of the Templer Society in Palestine, but because of a schism in the movement, were offered financial assistance to form a separate settlement in the countryside called Waldheim (forest home).The purchased land was part of the Arab village of Umm al-Amed and was owned by absentee landowners residing in Beirut.

In the 1930s the Waldheimers, along with many of the other Templers in Palestine, joined the Nazi Party, and with the onset of World War II, the British Mandatory government in Palestine declared them to be enemy aliens. Consequently, the residents of Waldheim, and the Templer movement’s residents living in nearby Bet Lehem Ha Glilit, were interred in their communities. Some of the Templers in Palestine were later deported by the British to Australia, while others returned to Germany in the early years of the war. Another group of Templers were repatriated to Germany in exchange for 200 Jewish female inmates from the Bergen Belsen concentration camp. A small group of residents remained in Waldheim until the founding of the State of Israel in 1948.

Start your walking tour of the village at the church which was designed as a basilica by the Haifa -based, German architect, Otto Lutz. It is of simple stone design which is typical of Protestant churches. Yet, its beautifully tiled floor, arched and port hole style windows and broad steeple, add a symmetric and elegant dimension to the structure. Construction commenced in 1916, but because of the war, its inauguration was delayed until 1921. Thereafter, a minister would travel from Haifa to conduct Sunday services at the church for the Waldheimers and some residents of neighboring Bet Lehem Ha Glilit.

Proceed down on either side of the streets and note some of the original two story stone homes bearing a mix of German and Arab architectural elements, including balconies and porches with wrought iron gates, copper gutters leading to cisterns in the cellar, window flower boxes and wooden shutters, some of which are adorned with carved flowers and hearts.

Across the street from the church is a home built in an unusual octagonal style. Adjacent to the church is the home and art gallery of Hannah Levav. Hannah is a second generation resident of Alonei Abba and will be happy to escort you or a group through the village for a fee. Hannah can be contacted at 04-983-5412.

Walking with Hannah through the small village is to take a step back in time to when her parents and other members of a group of Zionist volunteers from Romania, Austria and Czechoslovakia, settled in abandoned Waldheim in 1948. Most of these young people were members of the Hanoar Hatzioni Zionist youth movement in their home country, and having survived the horrors of Nazi Europe, now attempted to enter Palestine on the refugee ship, Darion II. The rickety old boat was intercepted by the British for attempting to run their blockade of Palestine, and its load of refugees were interred behind barbed wire fences at the Atlit and Mizra prison camps. With the founding of the Sate, arrangements were made for their resettlement at Waldheim.

Hannah will also be happy to tell you about the heroic efforts of Abba Berdichev, the namesake of the village, who as a member of Hanoar Hatzioni, volunteered to parachute into Nazi Europe to organize Jews for their ultimate immigration to Palestine. His valiant efforts cost him his life, together with other parachutists such as Hannah Senesh. Be sure to also ask Hannah about the numerous sites in Alonei Abba that served as the setting for local resident Meir Shalev’s novels, “Fontanelle” and Pigeon and a Boy”.

As you walk down the pine tree-lined streets, you may note the nature reserve in the distance. The name Alonei in Hebrew means oak, and indeed the 240 acre nature reserve is today a sanctuary for a small number of Tabor oak trees remaining in Israel. Before the outbreak of World War I, Tabor oaks were a common site in the lower Galillee and near Hadera along the sea shore. The Ottomans deforested much of Palestine during the war, but thanks to the strenuous efforts of the residents of Waldheim, the Tabor oaks surrounding the village were saved.

Abbie Rosner, another resident of Alonei Abba, and a transplant from the United States, offers culinary tours of the region. You can check out Abbie’s site at www.galileecuisine.co.il, and if time permits, be sure to book one of her tours to discover herbs, cheeses and other delicacies from the Galillee.

Return to the entrance of Alonei Abba and proceed right, past the Herb and Spice Farm, to Beit Lehem Ha Glilit (Bethlehem of the Galillee). Though the village is best known for its Templer homes and farms, the site dates back to the Roman and Byzantine eras ( 2nd and 7th centuries A.D.). In fact, some biblical scholars ascribe the area as the true Bethlehem in the Jesus narrative because of its proximity to Nazareth.

Strolling under the arched canopy of trees lining the main street, and by the gardens of some homes, you’ll pass numerous archaeological remains such as oil and wine presses, cisterns, columns and bases, and artifacts salvaged from nearby tombs. An impressive mosaic floor, with representations of birds, animals, grapes and geometric designs discovered at a Byzantine era site in the village, is now prominently displayed at Ben Gurion airport as your proceed down the ramp toward passport control. Though ancient Beth Lehem Ha Glilit was destroyed in the 7th century A.D., archaeologicalal evidence supports continued habitation through the time that the Templers purchased the land from an Arab family in the 1890s.

As you approach the Templer community center and adjacent water tower, note that the architectural elements of the center’s elegant stout design, arched wooden doorways and windows, use of pitched stone slabs and sharp angles, are reminiscent of the Protestant church in nearby Alonei Abba. Though the center is now closed to the public, you can peek into the windows and walk around the garden to examine archaeological artifacts.

Located in the rear of the center’s courtyard is a moving memorial composed of large standing stone slabs engraved with the names of family members of the village who had perished in the Holocaust. A memorial plaque erected by the second generation of residents, commemorates the struggle of their parents who had survived the Holocaust to ultimately settle in Beit Lehem Ha Glilit.

To truly appreciate the beautifully maintained homes with their colored shutters, flower boxes, and porches, be sure to glance into their lush front and back gardens and walk along some of the adjacent paths and alleys.

Down one such path is the rear entrance to the Spirulina soap and oil “company”. There, under the direction of Eli, groups of children and their families can enjoy making molded mobiles using soap and glycerin. Spirulina also provides lessons in the art of oil and soap making, and Eli can also arrange ATV rides for you and your family through the surrounding countryside. These rides can be especially enjoyable in spring and winter when the cyclamen, anemones, and irises are in bloom. Group activities should be scheduled in advance by calling 050-540-4034.

As you walk toward the end of the main street, a treat awaits both young and old at the Brandes dairy farm, www.shvilparot.co.il .There, owner Zvika Brandes will be happy to provide a personalized tour of his farm where 100 cows provide milk to the Tnuva dairy company. It’s fascinating to observe the operation of this highly mechanized farm with its robotic milking machines and computers registering the daily intake of food for each cow. But, it’s even more fun to hand milk a cow or feed an new born calf!

Zvika will also be pleased to relate the story of his parents who started the farm in 1957 with one cow provided by the government and a mule which they shared with a neighbor. On the second floor of the farm house Zvika’s parents raised chickens while also selling poppy seeds which grew in the nearby fields. Soon they were able to purchase additional cows, and by 1962 the dairy farm had become mechanized.

You may also wish to stop at the nearby home of Kobi and Nurit Fleischman, who maintain on the first floor a museum of village artifacts, photographs and other memorabilia. Kobi is an expert on local Templer history and will be pleased to give you a tour of the village for a fee. He can be contacted at 052-355-6939.

As we near the end of our day, a brief stop at nearby Bet She’Arim National Park would help place the region into its historical context. Long before modern Israelis settled in Alonei Abba and Beit Lehem HaGlilit, their forefathers established many Jewish settlements in the lower Galillee. One of the most significant of these, was the fortified city of Bet She ‘Arim, which in its heyday in the 3d and 4th centuries C.E., boasted a synagogue, religious school, public buildings and private dwellings. Archaelogical remains of these edifices can be viewed from the side of the road as you enter the national park. (as you leave Beit Lehem HaGlilit proceed right on Route 75 and immediately left on Route 722 to the park).

For a brief time the city was home to ancient Israel’s foremost judicial and ecclesiastical body, the Sanhedrin, and its leader Rabbi Yehuda Hanassi, who is today revered for his work in redacting the Mishna ( compilation of Jewish law). Many of Judaism’s greatest sages were educated at Bet She’Arim’s religious schools by Rabbi Hanassi and his two sons, Rabbi Gamliel and Rabbi Shimon, whose names may be familiar to readers of the Passover Haggadah. At his death, Rabbi Yehuda Hanassi was buried at Bet She’ Arim, and for many generations thereafter, Jews from Israel and the diaspora sought to be buried in the cemetery nearby this great sage. It is this necropolis of 30 excavated tombs, with their ornate stone carved facades, that we will now be visiting.

Start your walking tour at the information square where you can view a topographical map of the excavated city, the cemetery and several reliefs of Jewish symbols found in the tombs. Though it’s certainly worthwhile to follow the map in the brochure, if time is limited, you should make a point of stopping at the tomb of Yehuda Hanassi, the cave of the coffins, as well as at the mausoleum museum.

Though it is closed to visitors, the Cave of the Syrian Jews, is composed of four chambers with burial niches. Its most significant feature is the beautifully stoned carved seven branch menorah, and the Greek and Aramaic curses carved into the walls. Tomb number 14, the burial chamber of Rabbi Yehuda Hanassi, has an impressive stone facade with three arched doorways facing a large courtyard. The names of the rabbi’s sons are inscribed on the walls, and to the rear of the cave, two graves are cut into the bedrock according to the wishes of Rabbi Hanassi.

Perhaps the cave of the coffins is the most interesting of the tombs for its size and the large number of beautifully decorated sarcophagi found therein. It is also referred to as the Cave of the Rabbis for its many inscriptions recalling the names of these educators and spiritual leaders. Some of the 135 sarcophagi include intricately carved representations of animals, while on one is a carving of Nike, the Greek Goddess of Victory. The variety of Jewish symbols, such as the menorah, ram’s horn, ritual palm frond, and citron, decorating the burial chamber, together with the use of Hebrew, Aramaic and Greek languages, with their accompanying pagan representations on the coffins, is indicative of the culture and beliefs of Jews in Eretz Yisrael and the Diaspora at the beginning of the first millennium.

The mausoleum/museum has a beautiful display of archaeological artifacts, several stone and lead sarcophagi, as well as a collection of stone doors carved in a manner to imitate the wooden doors of the deceased’s residence. Similar doors are found at the entrance to each tomb.

This concludes our tour illustrating the mark that ancient Jews, Arabs, Christians and Israelis have left on this small area of the lower Galilee. If you’re planning a trip to Israel, you can retrace your return to Jerusalem or Tel-Aviv using the directions above.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources:

The Jerusalem Post

Society For The Preservation of Israel Heritage Sites

Israel Tourist Office

The Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority

Our “off the beaten path” journey will take us for the next two days to the northern Negev, first with a visit to Kibbutz Yad Mordechai and then to other nearby sites commemorating heroic battles during Israel’s War of Independence.  We’ll then learn about the Bedouins, nomads who had previously roamed the desert but who now more permanently  reside in parts of the Negev, with a visit to the Museum of Bedouin Culture at the Joe Alon Center.  From there you can return to home base in Jerusalem or Tel-Aviv or continue to Beersheva for an overnight stay. The next day we’ll explore a Bedouin weaving center in the town of Lakiya, historic Tel Beersheva and the nearby Nabatean/Byzantine archaeological site of Mamshit. The latter are part of Israel’s national park system, and have also been designated as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

Our drive on Route 4 from Tel-Aviv will take us about 10 kilometers south of Ashkelon to the entrance of Kibbutz Yad Mordechai, near the Eretz crossing with Gaza.  The drive should take about 60 minutes, and if you have never visited the south, you may want to first read my Ashkelon blog. There is much to see at the Kibbutz and you should dedicate at least three hours to the Holocaust Museum, the reconstructed battle site, and the Bee and Honey Museum.

Start your visit to Kibbutz Yad Mordechai with a stop at the water tower damaged during Israel’s War of  Independence and the adjacent imposing metal statue of Mordechai Anilewitz, which portrays this freedom fighter standing defiantly clutching a hand grenade.  The sand dunes on which the first simple wooden structures of the kibbutz were built, were purchased by the KKL/JNF in 1943 and settled by Polish pioneers of the Hashomer Hatza’ir youth movement. The name of the kibbutz and the statue immortalize Mordechai Anilewitz, a noted member of this movement, who as commander of the Warsaw Ghetto uprising, perished in the bunker known as Mila Street 18. Anilewitz symbolized the fighting Jew and served as a model for many of the defenders of the newly established State of Israel.  In his last letter before his death dated April 23, 1943, Anilewiz stated:

“The dream of my life has risen to become fact.  Self defense in the Ghetto will have been a reality. Jewish armed resistance and revenge are facts.  I have been a witnesss to the magnificent heroic fighting of Jewish men in battle.”

The museum which was opened in 1968, is housed in a dramatic award-winning structure whose several levels are devoted to the theme ” From Holocaust to Revival”.  Its entrance introduces you to the shtetel and the Jewish way of life in the first decades of the 20th century.  Not unlike other Holocaust museums, this one traces the rise of Naziism , the establishment of the extermination camps, heroic efforts of the partisans and the Warsaw Ghetto uprising.  However, the spacious interior is efficiently used by the large photographs, posters, religious artifacts and maps, and by the excellent recreation of the darkened narrow ghetto streets, the faithful reproduction of the bunker at Mila 18, the interiors of homes and a large scale model of the city of Warsaw. Most haunting are the photographs of murdered children whose faces stare back at you as you make your way through the exhibit. And recently, the museum added multi-media presentations in many areas which include well documented oral histories of survivors of the Warsaw Ghetto.

The message of revival begins near the end of the top floor exhibits.  There, photographs depict the illegal immigration into Eretz Yisrael and the establishment of the eleven defensive settlements on Yom Kippur night 1946.  The expeditious establishment of these outposts on land purchased by the KKL/ JNF was meant to create facts on the ground in anticipation of the United Nations resolution dealing with the partition of Palestine.

This action, which was sanctioned by the leadership of the Jewish Agency, was given the Talmudic name  “the 11 points in the Negev” and is commemorated by old black and white photographs of pioneers erecting wooden structures and barbed wire fences while singing and dancing at the end of the day.  Another exhibit explains the hazards that were awaiting these settlers in laying the water pipelines that linked these 11 outposts and the subsequent siege that these kibbutzim withstood during the War of Independence.

A most impressive display awaits the visitor on the ground floor of the museum.  There, large photographs, sculptures, maps, weaponry, scale models of the battles, Arab newspaper articles and an Egyptian army film movingly depict the battle for Yad Mordechai.  This exhibit serves as an excellent introduction to your visit of the actual battle field, a short drive from the museum.  Before departing, ask the usher at the front desk to ensure that the gate to the site is open for you.  There you can listen to an English language description of the six-day battle, while observing from a platform the placement of the tanks and  metal cut-outs of Egyptian soldiers maneuvering toward the Kibbutz.

The battle for the survival of Yad Mordechai placed its defenders at great odds against the Egyptian onslaught.  While the Egyptians attacked on May 19, 1948 with planes, tanks and mortars, the 130 kibbutzniks fought back with only 55 primitive light weapons.  Kibbutz Yad Mordechai was especially vulnerable as compared to the other nearby kibbutzim in that it is situated on the main north-south road, which permitted the Egyptian forces, in their drive to reach Tel-Aviv, to easily advance and encircle the defenders.  Yet against these staggering odds, the defenders of the kibbutz were able to hold the Egyptians at bay for six days, permitting the nascent Israeli Defense Forces to establish a line of defense which stymied the Egyptian advance to the north.  Still the loss of 24 of its kibbutz members finally persuaded the survivors of Yad Mordechai to retreat to neighboring, more secure kibbutzim.  Kibbutz Yad Mordechai was abandoned, occupied by the Egyptians, and subsequently liberated by the IDF on November 5, 1948. The returning members found their kibbutz in ruins, but quickly set out to rebuild it.

Today, Yad Mordechai is  a thriving kibbutz, whose agriculture and dairy business are firmly anchored by the Holocaust Museum and an apiary.  The apiary, which was founded 70 years ago, is today a unit of the Strauss foods conglomerate. It supplies 50 percent of all honey consumed in Israel and is also known for its olive oil and related gift products.  While the production facility is closed to the public, the kibbutz maintains a honey-bee museum and gift shop. The museum is especially geared to accomadate children with hands-on exhibits, a short movie and pictorials describing the honey making process. Adults and children alike will find the beekeeper’s explanation of honey collection from live hives especially interesting.  By reservation, the museum will be pleased to present the beekeeper’s lecture and movie in English.  Though the kibbutz sites are generally open from 10-4 and Fridays from 10-2, it would be advisable to confirm these times (052-3923107 or 08-672 0559).

It’s no doubt lunch time, and we’ll now make our way to the Nitzanim beach, about a fifteen minute drive to the north. There you can enjoy a  leisurely walk on this pristine beach in the direction of Ashkelon or Ashdod, or enjoy a light fare at the sea-side restaurant. After lunch we’ll  continue our Israel tour and make two stops nearby to gain a further understanding of the valiant efforts of the nascent Jewish community to defend this part of the Negev during Israel’s War of Independence.

As you depart Kibbutz Yad Mordechai, turn left on Route 4 and proceed north, beyond route 35, to the Eshkolot junction. Turn left and follow an asphalt road past a military base to the dunes in the foreground. You can drive through the reserve and along the sandy beach before parking your car at the restaurant. After your break, retrace your way toward Route 4, but after the military base turn left at the brown sign with the flame leading you to “Old Nitzanim”. This should not be confused with the signage that will lead you to the residential community of Nitzan or  the “new” Nitzanim Kibbutz on the other side of Route 4 that was established after 1948.

The original settlement of Nitzanim was established by the JNF/KKL in 1943 to facilitate the landing of  “illegal” Jewish refugees at the nearby beach in response to the British blockade that was based on the White Paper of 1939  limiting the number of Jewish immigrants to Palestine. Along with an adjoining orchard  and vineyard, the JNF/KKL purchased an old Arab estate, known as the Mansion. Today this renovated structure serves as an office and field school for the Society for the Protection of Nature. Upon request, they will be also happy to screen a short movie about the founding of the settlement and the Arab attack on Nitzanim.

Shortly after the Egyptian invasion of the Negev, most women and children were evacuated from Nitzanim. However, 10 women refused to leave the settlement, and instead decided to make a valiant stand against advancing Egyptian forces. However, the 74 men of the Givati brigade and the 56 members of the settlement were no match for the 700 strong Egyptian army that had easily penetrated the sandy defenses of Nitzanim. As casualties mounted and ammunition was soon depleted, survivors took shelter in the Mansion. Seeing no alternative, the Givati commander exited the Mansion with a makeshift white flag of surrender, but was immediatley shot and killed by an Egyptian officer. Miri Ben-Ari, the mother of a small son and operator of the Nitzanim radio, without hesitation drew her own weapon and shot the Egyptian. She in turn was killed by another officer.Today, this spot is identified by a group of eucalyptus trees towering over a stone memorial marker.

Today, Miri Ben-Ari, the other two female defenders of Nitzanim who had been killed, and  the many Israeli female soldiers who had fallen in battle during Israel’s wars, are honored at the Women of Valor Center that has been established at “Old Nitzanim”. An impressive sculpture depicting these heroines has been erected in front of the Mansion.  You may wish to take a few moments to contemplate its moving message and also read some of the quotations on the surrounding plaques, before  heading to the cemetery to view the beautifully sculpted rod iron fence marking important events in the history of  this settlement.

As we make our way to the Joe Alon Center and its Museum for Bedouin Culture, we will stop briefly at the battle memorial known as Givah (Hill) 69 and several other nearby sites. As you depart “Old Nitzanim”, turn right  unto Route 4, and then immediately left at the light onto Route 232. At the brown directional sign, follow the road for about 1 kilometer toward a dirt road leading you into an evergreen grove. In front of you three pock-marked brick water towers from the time of the British Mandate dominate the memorial site. The hill was devoid of trees in May 1948, and served as an excellent strategic vantage point for its Israeli defenders. The Egyptians also well  understood that whoever held the promontory could control movement on the important road below. For this reason, on the morning of June 10, 1948, the Egyptians launched a massive attack, lobbing more than 1000 artillery shells at the hill. The small group of Givati Brigade  soldiers was almost defenseless against the assault of armored tanks and artillery, and lost 20 of its fighters before surrendering that afternoon. Hill 69 remained in Egyptian hands until the end of the War of Independence. Though the surrender was initially viewed with some consternation, today this moving memorial gives due recognition to the brave soldiers who defended Givah 69.

Return to Route 232 and travel south a short distance to Route 35. Turn left and proceed several kilometers until you see the Yoav Fortress on the left side of the road. If this former British Mandate era police station (known as the Iraq Suidan fortress) looks familiar to you, the structure is quite identical to the Latrun police station located on the Jerusalem Tel-Aviv highway, and other similar fortresses built by the British in Palestine.

The police station was captured by the Egyptians and after seven attempts, liberated by the Givati Brigade. Today, the mortar riddled fortress serves as a museum to this fighting unit featuring an outdoor collection of tanks, half trucks, mortars and other weaponry, a memorial hall and excellent explanations of the history and desert battle field exploits of the Givati soldiers.  The museum is manned by active soldiers of the Givati Brigade, who will provide you with a personalized tour of the museum in English and other languages. The black and white movie features excellent archival footage, and emotional interviews with former brigade members and is unfortunately often overlooked by those planning their travel to Israel.

The former police station is today named the Yoav Fortress, commemorating Operation Yoav, during which the Givati Brigade played a crucial role in opening and securing the vital road to the Negev.  IDF forces were fighting not only against Egyptian forces but also the clock, as the United Nations was poised to enforce a cease fire which would have left the Negev in Egyptian hands.  At the direction of Yigal Allon, the Givati Brigade was able to break through the Huleiqat defense system, and after heavy fighting, open the corridor to the Negev. The Egyptians sustained heavy losses and subsequently retreated to the Gaza Strip.

After completing your Israel tour of the Yoav Fortress, exit to the right and drive about 3 kilometers to the entrance of Kibbutz Negba. The kibbutz was founded as a defensive outpost in response to the Arab riots of 1936-1939, but by virtue of its location was one of the first kibbutzim to be attacked by Egyptian planes and tanks in 1948. Its defenders fought valiantly from their bunkers and trenches with only light arms and were able to repulse several Egyptian advances. Forty three fatalities were sustained, and the names of these Givati soldiers and members of the the kibbutz are now permanently enshrined on a plaque in the memorial area.

Park outside the metal entry gate and proceed the short distance by foot into the park. There, behind the plaque, is a most impressive sculpture created  in 1953 by the renowned sculptor Nathan Rappaport. Three large figures have been cast: a kibbutz member, a young fighter and a girl holding a first aid kit. A marker nearby states their purpose most eloquently: “The images represent two generations of defenders of our land. Their hands are interlocked symbolizing their unity, the kibbutz and brotherhood, while they are looking towards a future of growth, prosperity and peace”.

From the Kibbutz return to Route 35 and proceed a short distance east for a stop at the marker with the Egyptian flags. This site memorializes that country’s unknown soldiers who died during Israel’s War of Independence.

Our Israel trip will now continue with a visit to the Joe Alon Center and its Museum of Bedouin Culture.  Proceed on Route 35 to Route 40 and then turn right.  At the Lehavim junction turn left onto Route 31 toward the Lahav forest in the distance. Turn left through a forest of towering evergreens, following the sign to the Joe Alon Center.

Your drive has taken you through the north-eastern Negev through an area where the flora and fauna of the coastal plain, the lowlands know as the Shephelah, and the desert meet to create a unique environment.  The area is dotted with caves, archaeological sites and Bedouin communities. The Joe Alon Center  was built in the midst of the Lahav forest, which was first planted by the KKL/JNF in 1952 and covers almost 7500 acres.

Today, approximately 160,000 Bedouin live in the Negev, while another 70,000 reside in the Galilee.  About one half of these are descendants of tribal migrations from the Arabian Desert from as early as the seventh century C.E. Though originally pastoral nomads, many of the tribes have settled permanently into well-established towns such as Lakiya, while others reside in communities of corrugated metal homes, or live with their extended families in large tents where they are sustained by their camels, goats and sheep. Many of these roadside communities have been erected without the permission of the Israeli government, and continue to lack basic services such as sewage or electrical systems as well as health care and educational facilities.

Though the essential elements of Bedouin life in terms of family, tribal loyalty and hospitality, are steadfastly maintained, the transition from a traditional semi-nomadic existence to a more modern lifestyle is creating tension in the community as century’s old way of life is disappearing.

In recognition thereof, a concerted effort has been undertaken to preserve the material culture of the Negev and Sinai Bedouin.  Anthropologists, historians and other professionals have successfully documented a soon disappearing lifestyle and have collected at the Joe Alon Museum of Bedouin Culture an array of ethnographic material of significant educational value. You can easily spend an hour strolling among the colorful displays learning about the traditional ways of the Bedouin, the significance of the women’s clothing and jewelry, women’s roles in tending the flock and processing wool, migration routes and the constant search for water, as well as the role of the men in farming, fishing and hunting.  The history of the Bedouin and their traditional customs are artfully explained by large photographs, scale models, and other artifacts supplemented by replicas of Bedouin tents, tombs, artwork, embroidery and handicrafts.  Audiovisual presentations are available in a number of languages and often an authentic Bedouin tent is manned, complete with cooking and weaving demonstrations.

The Joe Alon Center memorializes a man whose connection with the Negev is legendary.  Born Joe Paczek in Kibbutz Bet Alpha, of parents who would later perish in the Holocaust, Joe Alon became one of Israel’s premier fighter pilots.  After receiving his flight training in Czechoslovakia on airplanes that would soon find their way to the Jewish forces in Palestine, he advanced quickly through the ranks of the nascent Israeli Air Force.  Joe became a driving spirit in the establishment of the Hatzerim air force base in the Negev and soon thereafter ascended to the position of its commander.  In 1970, Joe was appointed Air Attache’ at the Israeli Embassy in Washington D.C., but shortly before the end of his assignment  was found murdered in front of his home.  The perpetrators of Joe Alon’s murder have never been found.  But today, Joe Alon’s love of the desert and its people is duly commemorated by the center that bears his name.  Visiting hours at the center are on Saturday through Thursday 9 to 5 (4 p.m. in winter).  On Friday the center closes at 2 p.m.  The center can be contacted at 08-991-03322 or 08-9918597.

It’s been a long day of sightseeing, and you may now wish to  end your Israel tour and return to your home base in Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem, or overnight in Beersheva. The Leonardo Hotel, formerly the Golden Tulip, which is well situated in the city center, may be a good choice for you. Follow Route 40 or 60 into Beersheva and look for #4 Henrietta Szold St. You can make reservations by calling 08-640-5444.

To further obtain a perspective on the life of the Negev Bedouin a short drive the following morning to the desert weaving center in the town of Lakiya would be of interest. From Beersheva, follow Route 60 to Route 31 and turn left for several kilometers.  Turn left at the sign and after the second traffic circle, park near the green building on the right.  As you enter the colorful showroom/work area, you may be greeted by Hala, the Director of Marketing of the Lakiya weaving initiative.  Hala is a university graduate whose English is impeccable.  When she’s not guiding a tour, she can be found on the phone or at her computer managing the initiative’s work flow or the efforts of her marketing agents.

The Lakiya desert weaving project was begun in 1991 in an effort to provide employment and socialization opportunities to Bedouin women who had been relocated with their families to Negev towns or to those still residing in villages.  The project is operated by “Sidreah,” a non-for-profit organization whose goal is to empower local Bedouin women by channeling traditional skills into profitable cottage industries. Today, Sidreh provides looms to approximately 70 women who work either individually or in small groups in their homes.  These women receive balls of yarn ready for weaving and dying from local shepherdesses who spin fleece into yarn while tending their flocks. By using ground looms identical to those used by Bedouin women for the last 4,000 years, traditional crafts have been revitalized, while providing Bedouin women with the opportunity to earn an income as part of an expanding modern business venture.

Hala is pleased to take her visitors to the rear of the showroom where traditionally garbed Bedouin women demonstrate skeining, the use of the loom, and the dyeing and sun drying processes.  Many of the geometric forms are traditional Bedouin patterns, as are the vivid greens, blues, rust and black colors that make up the rugs, wall hangings, cushions and bags that are for sale in the showroom.   The showroom hours are Sunday through Thursday, 9 -5 and Saturday 10 to 4.  You may wish to schedule your visit by calling 08-6519883 or 050-5210327.

We will now continue our Israel tour of the Negev  with a visit to Tel Beersheva and then the beautifully preserved Nabattean/Byzantine site of Mamshit. Immediately past the community of Omer on Route 60, you will note the  sign to Tel-Sheva. Follow this road past the community to the entrance of the Tel Beersheva National Park.

In 2005 the tel was accorded accreditation by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site for its outstanding representation as a city from the time of the Bible and is an important stop for those participating in holyland travel. Though the foundation walls of many administrative structures and private dwellings have been excavated and can be explored, I have found the site most notable for the preservation of its unique water system, especially  its immense subterranean water reservoir.

Finding water was foremost on the minds of Tel Beersheva’s first inhabitants as evidenced by the fact that the settlement was established on the northern bank of a stream-bed in a wide arid valley. Such stream-beds served  a dual purpose as a functional thoroughfare through the desert as well as possessing a lower water table enabling  these early settlers to have easy access to water via wells. The national park beautifully preserves one of these early wells which was hewn outside the entrance walls to the city. As such it would have served the needs of not only the city’s early inhabitants, but also  the requirements of the caravans that passed by. Archaeologists from Tel-Aviv University who excavated the site from 1969 to 1976 suspect that this deep well may be a remnant of the Iron Age people that dwelled on the mound at the end of the second millennium B.C.E., an era known as the Israelite period. For this reason, some biblical scholars like to connect this well with the narrative in Genesis which has Abraham presenting to Abimelech seven sheep as proof of the well that he had dug and the oath (shvuah in Hebrew) that they together  had taken to seal a treaty.

The entrance to the city is via the outer gate which is adjacent to the well. As you follow the path to the excavated main gate, note the paving stones covering the route. Underneath lies a drainage channel which was part of the town’s complex water system, which had permitted water not utilized by the inhabitants in their daily needs, to be funneled to the large water reservoir. Further down the path you will encounter the remains of the “Governor’s Palace,” which in its time had splendid ceremonial and residential areas. Nearby, in the residential quarter, archaeologists have retained the 8th century B.C.E. level where the city’s  new fortification system created a parallel double wall surrounding the mount, known as a “casement wall,” which also served as the back wall of the residences.

After a short walk down the trail, visitors can explore  the interesting remains of the storehouses with their wide paths that had permitted pack animals to easily maneuver their loads. Today, you can well imagine supplies being unloaded and placed into the series of store rooms aligning the three long hallways.  Archaeologists suggest that these storerooms are indicative of the town having served as the main administrative center of the northern Negev prior to its destruction in the late 8th century B.C.E. During their field work they were also astounded to discover the dismantled stones of a four-horned alter embedded in the walls of one of the storerooms. This sacrificial alter has been reassembled and is on display at the Israel Museum, which is also a must-see on your Israel trip. A replica can be found near the entrance gate of the national park.

Now retrace your steps to the observation tower from which you can enjoy the desert landscape, the views toward the high-rises of Beersheva, but most interestingly, the layout of the tel immediately below you. From there its a short walk to the water reservoir, which was established within the walls of the city to ensure its residents a continuous supply of water in times of siege.

The 17 meter deep stone-lined shaft leading to the immense water reservoir below ground is a magnificent representation of the ingenuity of Tel Beersheva’s early inhabitants. As you carefully descend the steps, note the thousands of stones that were used to line the face of the shaft. However, only upon entering the 700 cubic meter cistern can you fully appreciate the labor that was involved in  carving the five chambers of the reservoir from it’s chalk rock, hoisting the material  to the surface and  then plastering the walls to prevent water seepage. Near the exit  is the feeder channel that permitted flood water to enter the reservoir, while above ground are the remains of a stone-built channel that funneled this water from the Hebron stream to the feeder channel.

As useful as the water reservoir may have been to the residents of Tel Beersheva in previous battles, the town succumbed to the forces of the Assyrian King Sennacherib at the end of the 8th century B.C.E. The town lay in ruins until the Persian period when a small fortress was constructed on the mound. Though the Greeks and Romans later utilized the site, Tel Beersheva never again regained it’s stature as an important administrative center with an enterprising and imaginative population.

As you exit the tel, retrace your way to Route 60, where you will turn left. Follow the signs 60/40 for a short distance and then turn right into Route 40. Immediately on the right on a hill you will note several concrete geometric formations, the Palmach’s Negev Brigade memorial. The Negev Brigade was formed in April 1948 with two military objectives in mind. The first was to secure the road to the north, toward Tel-Aviv, and the second was to assist in defending the crucial water pipelines in the Negev. Sculptor Danny Caravan has captured the essence of the brigade’s mandate by erecting forms resembling a damaged water tower, a Palmach tent, a look-out post inside a trench, a water supply line, a bunker, and a serpent shaped building representing the retreating Egyptian army. Prose, poetry and excerpts from the Palmach Brigade diary are etched onto the concrete forms, and in the memorial dome the names of  fallen soldiers are inscribed. The view from the hill toward  modern  Beersheva reminds the visitor of the Palmach Brigade’s other success during the War of Independence, capturing the old city of Beersheva.

Our journey through the Northern Negev continues with a visit to another UNESCO World Heritage site, Mamashit National Park, which today beautifully highlights the culture of the Nabateans, a people that built important cities along the 1,400 mile desert trade route in what is now Saudi Arabia, Jordan and the Negev. You may be most familiar with the red sandstone facades at Petra, an outstanding example of Nabatean architecture. Mamshit was built at the end of the first century C.E. to link Petra with the port in Gaza to facilitate the transport of spices, frankincense, myrrh, balsam and other goods from the Orient to Europe. The Nabateans also harvested asphalt from the Dead Sea and sold it to the Egyptians for  their embalming and mummification processes. The site is one of the most important desert attractions in Israel.

The hot arid climate has well preserved the artfully constructed homes of wealthy Nabatean traders and horse breeders. The notable Arabian stallion was bred at Mamshit, and in fact, the stable and a large stone trough have been excavated. The site today retains its wide streets and homes adorned with beautifully chiseled arches, large terraces, pools, baths and frescoes. As was typical of trade route cities, Mamshit too was built  near an oasis which provided sustenance to desert travelers and residents alike. During the Hellenistic period Mamshit  prospered and became known as Memphis. Subsequently under Roman rule of Palestine, Mamshit was incorporated into the empire and became a walled garrison, as evidenced by the Latin inscribed tombstones of soldiers found nearby. In the Byzantine period, when the trade in spice through the southern desert had run its course, the residents used the nearby stream,  dams and cisterns to cultivate agriculture. It was also then that the two churches found within the walls of the city were erected.

Mamshit can be reached by exiting left from  the Negev Brigade Memorial and proceeding on Route 40, in the direction of Dimona. Then turn left into Route 25,  driving past Dimona. Turn right at the directional sign to Mamshit and follow the paved road for about a kilometer to  the entrance of the national park.

As you enter the walled city through its late Roman-era front gate note the wagon wheel groves on the stones below. Your first stop will be the “House of the Affluent” with it’s large courtyard, adjoining rooms and nearby the stairs leading to the tower. Here, you will find the first examples of the artistry of Mamshit’s master stone masons in the form of arches, plinths and capitals. From there it’s a short walk to one of two churches constructed during the Byzantine period when the residents of Mamshit converted to Christianity. The Western or Nilos church, so named in a Greek floor inscription for its benefactor, has in its nave representations of typical Byzantine  mosaic motifs of peacocks, birds and geometric forms. Nearby is a Nabatean house with a stable large enough to have accomodated sixteen horses. The height of its walls, beautifully chiseled stone troughs and arches are a noteworthy example of the wealth of Mamshit’s horse breeders.

At the other end of the city, the Eastern church, “Church of the Martyrs”, was constructed as part of a larger monastery complex and retains its well preserved atrium, narthex and nave.  As with the Nilos church,  here the apse is at the east permitting worshipers to face Jerusalem. In the rooms adjoining the apse, archaeologists discovered cabinets which they believe would have stored the bones of saints. You can now walk along the former market street with with its parallel rooms, to the “Nabato House.” Though this large complex also has a stable,  its mythological Greek frescoes are particularly impressive. One colorful panel represents the gods Cupid and Psyche sitting on a low bench  and kissing. See  if you can also find on some of the capitals  the decorative carvings of a bull’s head and a figure of a man.

As you walk through the city, note the large cisterns within the courtyards, water channels and stone drains coming down from roofs. These, together with the three large dams constructed  along the stream, are representative of the sophisticated water management techniques developed by the Nabateans at Mamshit. Next to the pool, archaeologists discovered a Byzantine bathhouse whose ceramic pipes that carried heated air to the calderium are still clearly visible today. As you prepare to depart Mamshit, you may wish to retrace your way to the path outside of the walls leading to one of the dams that has survived since antiquity with some repairs by the British during their Mandate of Palestine.

As you proceed from the national park to the main road note on the right the Mamshit camel farm which provides a taste of Bedouin hospitality. The experience of eating a hearty meal of  various meats, chicken, vegetables, salads and pita, before retiring to your sleeping bag  in a large Bedouin tent, is tailored to groups of four or more. An early morning camel ride may await your group as well. You can make reservations by calling:08-6552829.

This concludes our two day adventure tour of the northern Negev.  From Mamshit you can make your way to the Dead Sea, and from there to Jerusalem. Alternatively, you can follow route 40 until it intersects with Route 6 which will speedily return you to Tel-Aviv and Jerusalem.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources:

Israel Nature and Parks Authority

Kibbutz Yad Mordechai

Kibbutz Negba

Joe Alon Center

Nitzanim

IDF

The Jerusalem Post

Today’s off the beaten path adventure will take us slightly inland, away from the coast, into Emek Hefer. This valley of kibbutzim and moshavim, just to the east and north of Netanya, will give us the opportunity to stroll through eucalyptus groves on the banks of the Alexander River while watching large turtles sun themselves on the rocks nearby, and have lunch at a boutique wine shop/ restaurant at an adjacent kibbutz. However, we’ll start our day at Israel’s largest collection of orchids located at Utopia Park and end it over a cup of coffee or glass of wine at a cliffside Bauhaus restaurant overlooking the Mediterranean.

From Tel-Aviv travel north on Route 2 to the Netanya junction, Route 57. Travel east on Route 57 for about 15 kilometers, following the directional sign to Kfar Yona. As you reach the Nitzane Oz junction turn left and follow the signs to Kibbutz Bahan.The trip from Tel-Aviv may take you 45 to 60 minutes. Their parking lot is spacious and Utopia Park is accessible to the physically challenged. During the summer months the park is open from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., but closes at 5 p.m. during the winter. On Fridays the park closes at 3 p.m. Noteworthy is the fact that the 4000 square meter orchid hothouse can be enjoyed rain or shine. You can reach the park by telephoning 09-8782191.Guided tours for school children, with explanations in Hebrew, English, Russian and Arabic, can be arranged prior to a visit, and Utopia Park has also become a popular venue for corporate events in Israel.

After paying the admission you’ll be ushered into a darkened  cave to watch an informative animated movie. From there follow the sounds of cascading water through the waterfall entrance of the humid, glass covered arena of orchids, ferns, peacocks, pools and bridges. Take your time to stroll down the paths of this tropical jungle to admire the thousands of orchids on display while stopping to read the educational signs nearby. Utopia Park boasts one of the world’s largest collection of orchids including 50 species and 100 varieties, among them the paphiopedilum, cymbidium and cattleya. As you meander through this “Garden of Eden” listen to the sounds of parrots, the clucking of hens and the chirping of other exotic birds coming from a caged area that you can enter with a tour guide. Though it’s hard to take your eyes off the colorful orchids and other tropical plants, do look above to admire the large ferns, the coconuts hanging from the palm trees and the colorful bananas near the amphitheater. Near the exit, stop at the collection of carnivorous plants, whose rootless early existence in a swampy environment forced them to adapt to a life of fly and insect catching.

It’s now time for some fresh air with a stroll through the Utopia Park outdoor gardens or a rest on their expansive lawns. Your kids will no doubt enjoy the delightful topiary, the butterfly garden, petting area, or just running through the maze hill. As you exit the park, think about a brief stop at the garden center for a souvenir plant or cutting to remind you of your visit to Utopia Park.

Now let’s retrace our way back on Route 57 to Route 4 where you will turn right and travel about 3.7 kilometers . Turn left and follow the sign to  Kibbutz Ma’abarot and the Alexander river. Then follow the road a short distance to the right and park your car near the river.

The Alexander River was at one time considered to be one of this country’s most polluted streams as it collected sewage near it’s source in Nablus and in other areas of the Palestinian Authority before flowing into Israel. However, in 1994 an initiative between local governments in the Palestinian Authority, the KKL/JNF, and Israeli governmental agencies, known as the Alexander River Restoration Project, resulted in the remediation of the pollution and the creation of park like setting along the river bank. This level of collaboration between Israel and it’s Palestinian neighbors may very well serve as a model for future similar cross-border initiatives.

Today, with the additional assistance of the Italian Jewish community, the rehabilitated area is known as “Parco Italia” and affords visitors the opportunity to hike, bicycle and picnic along the river’s edge. Walk along the pedestrian bridge, or on the trail with its limestone pavers and shaded sitting areas, north toward the wooden observation platform to observe the many  large soft shelled turtles and fish in the stream. You may also see some Grey Mullet, which are common to the Mediterranean Sea, after they have breached the sand barriers of the estuary to lay their eggs upstream on the banks Alexander river. If time permits, you may wish to follow the excellent signage and  continue to hike toward the coast along the river edge with its abundance of lush vegetation. On your walk, note the four small dams which were built as ladders to facilitate the travel of fish down stream. In the spring, you’ll have the joy of experiencing blooming anemones, tulips, buttercups and other colorful flowers on a hill near the eucalyptus grove.

By now you have no doubt built up an appetite, so it’s time for lunch! Drive back into the gated entrance of Kibbutz Ma’abarot, follow the road to the left down the hill and look for the wine shop sign. The shop has a large variety of Israeli boutique wines, international selections as well as wonderful Belgian, Czech and German beers which will go well with your lunch.You may be greeted at the door of the Beit HaYain cafe by it’s owners Baruch and Riva Wolf who have created a delectable menu of quality cheeses, seafood and meats. Baruch is a friendly kibbutznik who started his career as a manager at Ma’abarot before opening in the renovated old storage building a rustic gourmet eatery. You can enjoy your meal on the wooden veranda or outside surrounded by gardens, a small vineyard, eucalyptus trees and rural landscape views. On a rainy winter day you may want to try Baruch’s goulash soup, beef bourguignon, with a slice of apple strudel for dessert to boot. The restaurant is open daily and for larger group reservations Baruch can be reached at 09-8972053.

If you would now like to savor a good glass of wine with a view of a Mediterranean sunset, and are ready to travel another 15 minutes north on our Israel tour for a bit of history, then let’s visit Beit Hankin (04-621 4424).This small gem of a restaurant, with it’s terrace overlooking the aqua waters and beach, was built in Bauhaus International style in 1936 by Yehoushua Hankin for his wife Olga. Today, this restaurant is the centerpiece of Hadera’s largest neighborhood known as Givat Olga and is a nice little place to visit during your tour in Israel.

Yehousha Hankin is best remembered for his tireless efforts in purchasing large tracts of land, on behalf of the World Zionist Organization, the Jewish National Fund and other organizations, in what is today Rehovot, Hadera, Acco, the Jezreel Valley, and Emek Hefer. His knowledge of Turkish law, fluency in Arabic, and intimate knowledge of the customs of the local Arab population, complemented by the strength of his personality, permitted Yehousha to successfully negotiate transactions valued at hundreds of thousands of dollars with absentee Arab land owners in Beirut and Damascus.

In 1888 Yehousha married Olga Belkind, who had arrived in Palestine two years earlier, with a degree in midwifery from the University of St.Petersburg. Olga was twelve years his senior, and used her many years of experience in midwifery to assist Yehousha in developing personal relationships with Arabs living in the vicinity of their home in Jaffa. She soon made a name for herself in her own right as a midwife to the families of local sheiks and other Muslim and Christian notables. Olga and Yehousha were exiled to Turkey during the first world war, and upon their return to Palestine Olga retired from midwifery. She however continued to live in her husband’s shadow for many years thereafter, and was buried in an ornate mausoleum built by Yehousha at Mt. Gilboa in the Jezreel Valley. There on a hill, next to her grave, is a Bauhaus structure identical to the cliff-side restaurant at Givat Olga.

As you enjoy the setting sun from the terrace at Beit Hankin, take a few moments to examine the large collection of photographs inside the restaurant of the pioneering settlers of Hadera, the surrounding Emek Hefer, and the Hankin and Belkind families. At the conclusion of your visit you can easily return to Route 2 for your drive to Tel-Aviv.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources: Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority
Park Utopia
The Jerusalem Post
Women On The Map
Arthur Ruppin

To reach Beit Hankin follow Route 4 into the town of Hadera, and at the circle, follow the sign to Givat Olga. Follow Shim’oni street to the railroad tracks where it becomes Aaron Aaronsohn boulevard. Half way around  the next circle turn right into Hashalom street, and after a few blocks, follow the signs toward Tel-Aviv and proceed over the Route 2 viaduct. Then follow Menachem Begin street to the beach. Park near the very large, unfinished concrete building, and walk through the gate and along the path until you view a small white cliff-side building on the left.

Our destination today is one of the most unusual natural attraction in Israel, the Sorek cave in the Judean Mountains near Bet Shemesh. We’ll have lunch nearby and then explore the remains of an ancient khan with it’s well-preserved mosaic floors, and hike down the Emperor’s Road. The drive to the Sorek cave will take about an hour from either Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem and is especially scenic as you drive through American Independence Park, which is also known as USA Park.

Exit Route 1 at the Sha’ar Hagai junction and follow Route 38 into the town of Bet Shemesh following the brown directional sign toward the stalactite cave. Drive through this quasi-industrial town on Routes 3855 and 3866 until you enter the American Independence Park. The well-paved drive up U.S. Vice President Hubert Humphrey Parkway will provide you with a stunning view of the Sorek valley, as well as the hills, valleys and the sea far into the distance. Along the way you can easily turn off into some scenic lookouts to enjoy the view below. Near the summit there are several noteworthy sculptures, which we will reflect upon at the conclusion of our visit to the cave. Now turn left to drive down the hill to the parking lot of the Sorek Cave Nature Reserve.

From the parking lot it’s a up to 10 minutes by foot to the visitors center. Though the 150 stairs are well placed, the descent at times is steep, which you should be mindful of as you do need to climb back up to your car! By advance reservation, the physically challenged may be dropped off near the visitors center, but unfortunately, their access within the cave is limited to the observation platform . For further information  please call the following number: 02 991 1117 or 02 992 5756.

The Sorek cave and the surrounding nature reserve, is named after Avshalom Shoham, who as a member of an elite military unit, was critically wounded during the War of Attrition in 1971. When he succommed to his wounds several years later, his family wanted to ensure that his love for Israel would be memorialized, and assisted in making the opening of the cave to the public a reality. Interestingly, his family harkens back to the Bilu settlement movement of the early 20th century, and Avshalom is named for Avshalom Feinberg a member of NILI (see Zichron Yaakov blog).

Start your Israel tour with a visit  to the cave early in the morning or on Fridays when large groups are not permitted. Prior to your guided tour, it would be worthwhile to view the audiovisual presentation, which in detail explains the geological development and discovery of the Sorek cave. Most noteworthy is the fact that this small cave renders a full representation of almost all types of stalagmites and stalactites found in larger caves worldwide. After watching the film you can touch the stalagmites and stalactites that are on display. Especially for children, this can be one of the highlights of their Israel trip.

The Sorek cave was discovered by chance in 1968 while workers were quarrying nearby. However, another decade would pass before it could be officially opened to the public. The cave is located on the side of Mt. Ya’ale, which is part of the Judean mountain range. Today, with thanks to the efforts of the KKL/JNF, the entire area is forested with Mediterranean woodlands and evergreens which are interspersed with walking trails, lookouts and picnic groves.

The Sorek cave has been carved out of Mt. Ya’ale’s dolomite rock, through the seepage of rainwater mixed with carbon dioxide into fissures which expanded in time to create the cavern we admire today. The Sorek is a live cave, in that water continues to infiltrate through these fissures to slowly form the artful display of limestone formations known as stalagmites and stalactites, some of which are three hundred thousand years old. You’ll soon learn to identify this evidence of “life” by observing drops of water hanging at the tip of “macaroni” shaped stalactites. The tour, which is conducted in English and other languages, can last 40 minutes, depending on the number of visitors. The cave is well illuminated with lighting and shadows permitting you to visualize, with the assistance of your friendly  Israel tour guide, formations such as a guardian angel, ice cream cones, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs, a baboon, a marrying couple, a wedding cake, and Romeo and Juliet. The latter presents the question if these two growing stalagmites and stalactites will ever join and kiss. The walkway is constructed in such a manner that once inside you are at all times surrounded by this vast array of illuminated formation.

At the conclusion of your tour you can stop at the visitors center and gift shop before returning to your car for the drive back up the mountain. As you reach the main road, turn left into the picnic grove and follow the dirt road to the summit of mount Ya’ale for an impressive view of the valley and plains that are spread out in front of you. There you will also find a number of diagrammed signs in Hebrew explaining significant battles that took place nearby during Israel’s War of Independence. As you descend the mountain, park in the picnic grove and carefully cross the road by foot to admire the memorial sculptures.

The first metal elliptical sculpture depicting the earth is in memory of the Challenger astronauts that perished shortly after liftoff. It’s imposing size and shape near the summit of Mount Ya’ale is a moving tribute to these American explorers. Nearby is the plaque commemorating the Israeli astronaut, Ilan Ramon, who perished with the crew of the Columbia spacecraft.

From the junction, it’s a 4 kilometer drive on Route 3866 to the Bar Giora visitors center (turn left at the sign Wadi Quetlef) where you can enjoy a full meal on the terrace or inside the rustic restaurant while taking in the view of the valley below. KKL/JNF maintains a kiosk at the visitors center with brochures in English and Hebrew describing hiking trails, archaeological sites and streams in the Jerusalem Mountains area. Opposite the restaurant are wall displays of geological formations, vegetation, and wildlife, which serve as excellent learning tools for Hebrew readers. There is a also a large wall map in Hebrew identifying several hiking trails that start at the center. These are considered some of the best hiking attractions in Israel.

Though I recommend the hikes at our next nearby stop, a short hike on the black-dotted trail will afford you views of ancient hillside terracing, the original Jerusalem-Jaffa train line in the valley below, a variety of indigenous trees and bushes and a sumptuous display of flowers in spring time. Alternatively, you may just wish to enjoy the view by strolling down the asphalt promenade, which is easily accessible to the physically challenged. From there, it’s a 7 kilometer drive down Routes 386 in the direction of Zur Hadassah and 375 west to the Hanoth ruins.

As you proceed down Route 375, you will note on the right immediately adjacent to the road in a picnic grove, the remains of an ancient inn or khan, dating to the late Middle Ages. This ruin, known in Arabic as Khirbet el-Khan, contains the nave of an earlier Byzantine church whose beautiful mosaic floor and inscriptions are clearly visible. If you don’t immediately spot them, use your foot to brush away the sand that has been placed there to protect the mosaics. The adjacent wine press also has a mosaic treading floor which is not as ornate. Nearby, a tree-covered mound with buried stones relates this site to Byzantine period pilgrims, who on their way to Jerusalem, would place a stone on the spot they believed was Goliath’s final resting place. This site may be of particular interest to those participating in holyland travel.

The Hanoth ruins are adjacent to an ancient thoroughfare which in part leads up from the nearby Elah Valley where the biblical account of the battle between David and Goliath took place. The khan is the start of your hike on this ancient Emperor’s Road, through a forest of evergreens with an impressive view of the valley below. Alternatively, by driving south on the route 375 for about three kilometers, you will reach a JNF/KKl grove with steps hewn into rock which researchers believe are part of the Roman road connecting Ashkelon and Jerusalem. It is thought that the road was built in honor of Emperor Hadrian’s visit to this Roman province in 130 C.E. Adjacent thereto, you will also find the remains of an ancient olive press

You can now retrace your steps back to your car and follow Route 375 south to Route 38 toward Bet Shemesh and then north to Route 1 for your return to Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources:Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority
JNF/KKL

A visit to the charming village of Zichron Yaakov, with its pedestrian-only cobblestone main street lit by old fashioned street lamps, and bounded on both sides with beautifully restored homes, courtyards, galleries, boutiques, and places of historical interest, will provide the visitor with a true understanding of Edmund de Rothschild’s vision and contribution to the Jewish re-settlement of The land of Israel at the end of the 19th century. No doubt your visit to Zichron Yaakov can be one of the highlights of your Israel trip.

Several hours should be dedicated to your visit to Zichron Yaakov, especially if you plan to visit the First Aliyah Museum, tour the Aaransohn house, the Carmel Mizrahi or Tishbi winery and perhaps have lunch on the main street. As travel in Israel is relatively easy, the village can be reached within 45 minutes from Tel-Aviv or within 15 minutes from Haifa. Use Route 4 to enter Zichron Yaakov from the southwest and drive up the hill to Hakovshim St., and then turn left toward the circle, where you will again turn left in the direction of the arched entrance to Hameyasdim Street. You may find parking in front of the cemetery near the Founders’ Monument. The latter is a natural start to your walking tour and provides a brief historical sketch in ceramic relief. Here you can also pick up a map of the village as well as a list of restaurants and B&Bs. Then cross the street and enter the cemetery.

The challenges that had faced Zichron Yaakov’s first settlers will quickly become evident as you walk through the cemetery noting the large number of children’s graves entombed above ground. The village was originally settled in 1882 by Zionist pioneers, predominantly from Romania, many of whose children perished from malaria or the hardships of the winter of 1883. Though some dispirited families chose to leave immediately thereafter, Edmund de Rothschild came to the rescue of the nascent community by providing agricultural employment and subsidized housing for his workers. The relationship between Rothschild’s administrators and these pioneers at times became acrimonious, in that the deeds to their homes had to be registered in the names of the administrators in return for Rothschild’s financial assistance. However, soon thereafter vineyards were planted and by the early 1890s a winery had become successful, providing the moshava with its financial footing.

As you pass under the arch, note at number 18 the modest home of Asher Bonstein, a founding settler/farmer of Zichron Yaakov, and the collection of agricultural implements in the side yard of the homes at numbers 22 and 24.The Hershkovitch home is located further up Hameyasdim St. at number 30. Moshe Hershovitch, one of the original pioneers, was a master carpenter whose wood carvings survive in the synagogue as well as in the home of Aaron Aaronsohn. In his yard you will also find some of the mulberry bushes that were originally planted in 1900 to feed a population of silkworms. Silk manufacturing was yet another venture of the industrious Baron de Rothschild, yet short lived. Across the street from the Hershkovitz home at number 19 is the former home of the “foot pilgrim”.  Chaim Bar Schwartz, one of the founders of Zichron Yaakov, was known to have fulfilled one of the biblical commandments, make pilgrimage to the Kotel or Western Wall of the Temple.

One of the most notable buildings on Hameyasdim Street, with its stone, castle-like exterior and beautiful garden, is the Aaronsohn family home. As members of one of Zichron’s founding families, the wealthy senior Aaronsohns left Romania with their furniture, crystal and china, which is still on display at the home, as if the family had just sat down to a formal meal. The exploits of two of their children, Aaron Aaronsohn and his sister Sara have become legend in Israel. Aaron was a world-renowned botanist whose research at nearby Atlit led to his discovery of specimens of wild wheat known as “the Mother of wheat”. You may tour the home and the museum which contains an explanation of his scientific research, as well as many excellent documents, photographs and an audiovisual presentation relating to the role that Aaron, Sara and others played in the establishment of the espionage group NILI. Note: It is sometimes difficult to gain entrance expeditiously because of the many school children visiting the place.(06-6390120) A visit to the museum certainly merits a stop during your tour in Israel.

Members of this group used NILI, an acronym for a biblical verse from the Book of Samuel, as a password. Their purpose was to help facilitate a British victory in World War I in Ottoman controlled Palestine by gathering intelligence on Turkish military installations and troop movements. The group used carrier pigeons to relay information to the British, but to the ring’s great detriment, one such pigeon decided to land at the home of the Turkish governor in Caesarea as it made its way from Atlit to British headquarters in Cairo Egypt. With the exposure of the espionage ring, Turkish authorities surrounded Zichron Yaakov and arrested members of the NILI group, including Sara Aaronsohn. Sara was brutally tortured by the Turks, but refused to divulge any information regarding the group. Asking to be returned to her home one last time to change her clothes, she went to the bathroom and shot herself, rather than giving the Turkish authorities the satisfaction of hanging her. The pistol’s hiding place (known as a “slick”), and the bathroom can be visited on the tour of the home. Aaron, whose accomplishments also included the preparation of a detailed map of Palestine for use at the Versailles Peace Conference, mysteriously perished in an airplane accident over the English Channel in 1919.

The remains of Avshalom Feinberg, another resident of Zichron Yaakov, and member of NILI, were discovered in the Sinai desert after the Six Day War. Beduins had murdered Avshalom during his attempt to reach Aaron Aaronsohn and the British in Cairo. At the time of his death he must have had a date in his pocket as a large date tree sprouted with his remains entwined in it’s roots. Bedouin tradition held that this tree was the resting place of the Jew. After the war, Avshalom Feinberg was returned to Israel and given a formal state funeral.

Across the street from the Aaronsohn home you will note the restaurant/bar of the Tishbi family, with it’s comfortable outdoors seating area. The elegant stone house was originally the home of Shmuel Sternberg who designed the Carmel winery’s first iron gates. It was in the cellar of the Sternberg home that Shmuel’s son David hid  Sara Aaronsohns’s final letter and will from the Turks.

As you meander through the many shops and galleries make a point to stop at the water reservoir, known as Brechat Binyamin. At first glance you may think that the façade is that of an ancient synagogue, but the true purpose at the time of its construction in 1891 was to provide continuous flowing water to a central point in the village. The design of this otherwise utilitarian structure again reflects the careful planning undertaken by Rothschild’s administrators. Your next stop will be the synagogue at the corner of Hameyasdim and Hanadiv streets.

The village was originally known as Zammarin, but  to honor his father James, Edmund de Rothschild had the name of the village changed to “ In Memory of Jacob.” His Father’s name is further enshrined in the name of the town’s synagogue, Ohel Yaakov, which was built in 1886. The size and architectural quality of the Synagogue, with its elegant crystal chandeliers and richly carved furnishings, reflect Rothschild’s vision for the growth of the community and his main commercial enterprise, the winery.

Immediately past the synagogue and opposite Rothschild Park stands the First Aliyah Museum (04-629-4777). The subject matter of this museum is unique, in that it focuses on the Aliyah from 1882 to 1904, rather than on the more frequently discussed subsequent waves of immigration to the Land of Israel. Spread over three floors of a building constructed in 1892, the museum presents a moving multi-media presentation of the travails of one family’s journey from the Diaspora to Palestine. Tracing the movement of a family unit is especially poignant, in that this Aliyah was comprised primarily of entire families escaping the pogroms of the East or those otherwise inspired by the opportunity to work the land. The video is supplemented by large photographs, sculptures depicting the First Aliyah’s pioneers and metal relief maps of sister villages of Zichron Yaakov built with the assistance of Edmund de Rothchild. The museum is also a repository for one of the first movies filmed in Israel depicting life in Tel Aviv in 1913.

As you exit the museum, turn right into Hanadiv Street and proceed down the hill to the visitor’s center of the Carmel Mizrahi winery for a tour. If you previously visited the winery founded by Rothschild in Rishon Le Zion, you may instead wish to tour the smaller winery at the nearby Tishbi Estate (04- 638- 0435.) The Tishbi family was commissioned by Rothschild in 1882 to plant a vineyard near to Zichron Yaakov and they continue to be in business to this day. You may even find proprietors Johnathan and Nili Tishbi busily at work on the property.

Their visitors’ center offers tours of the winery, a Kosher dairy restaurant, a wine and cheese shop, wine and chocolate tasting, as well as the ability to bring your own container from home for a fill up. The winery is unique in that much of its state-of the-art equipment is located outside for easy viewing. An exception of course is the oak barrel wine aging facility and the cognac plant, which utilizes a magnificent antique Remy Martin processor. The winery affords pleasant outdoor seating under a trellis and vines or at long wooden tables inside their modern/rustic style restaurant. The state of the art wine shop has an impressive collection of the large varieties of Tishbi wines, from their less expensive table wines to their estate collection. To reach the estate, follow the signs on Aahron Street, South of the Founders’ Monument, directing you toward Binyamina.

Return to Route 4 for the short drive in the direction of Haifa to the village of Ein Hod, which for art lovers is a must-see stop during their travel in Israel. Turn right at the Ein Hod/ Ein Hud sign that directs you up a winding road through the scenic foothills of the Carmel Mountains. The village was founded in 1953 by Marcel Janko at the site of abandoned Arab homes in what was then known as Ein Hud. Because of its proximity to the main road connecting Tel-Aviv and Haifa, the villagers of Ein Hud were evacuated to higher ground during Israel’s War of Independence. Today, most of these former Arab residences have been reconstructed and enlarged, becoming home to a thriving artist colony. Try to avoid the crush of the weekend crowds to more fully enjoy meandering through the alleys, courtyards and in and out of artists’ studios.

At the main square, across from the Dona Rosa Argentine restaurant, you will find a communal gallery displaying a sampling of the works of most of Ein Hod’s artists. Opposite is the Janko Dada Museum (04-984-2350), whose permanent display is dedicated to the seventy years of the artist’s world-renowned creations. Those of you with an adventurous artistic streak can try your hand at creating your own Dada masterpieces in the Dadlab interactive exhibition.

If you care to enjoy more traditional, hands on artistic experiences, Ein Hod offers the visitor a number of interesting venues. Pottery making, including wheel techniques, glazing and kiln firing, can be studied with Naomi Verchovsky (04 984-1107). A demonstration of linoleum cutting, lithography and etching can be observed at the studio of Ora Lahau-Shaatiel (04 -984-2018). The studio of Helena Markson (04-984-1171) can offer you a glimpse into the world of printmaking techniques and etching on copper and zinc.

After attending a workshop or just wandering through Ein Hod’s galleries, a brief stop for some homemade beer at the Art-Bar might be just what you may need on a hot summer day. There you will meet it’s colorful proprietor Danny Shlyfestone, who with his wife Analia, runs the mini brewery/art gallery. Danny serves a variety of stouts and ales, Yemenite style pizza is made on an outdoor Taboon on Fridays, and on Tuesday evenings it’s jazz from 6 p.m. onwards. If you stay long enough you’ll learn everything you ever wanted to know about the intricacies of beer making and the history of beer, with a few of Danny’s jokes thrown in between. Before you leave Ein Hod, ask Danny to point you in the direction of the Nisco Museum of Mechanical Music.

Nisan Cohen will greet you at the door of his museum which is jam packed with his collection of music boxes, hurdy gurdies, an automatic organ, a reproducing player piano, and much more. No doubt, one of the more unusual attractions in Israel! Cohen, a native of New York, spent a lifetime as a documentary filmmaker while collecting music boxes and accumulating a vast archive of Yiddish records. One of his most prized possessions is the 1918 rendition of Hatikva on the Edison label, which he will play for you on an original RCA windup gramophone. Also, if you are visiting Ein Hod on a Friday, you can attend the 1 p.m. concert presented at the Nisco Museum using Cohen’s original mechanical instruments. However, you may wish to call first as the concert is dependent on the number of guests attending.(052-4755-313).

At the conclusion of your visit you can return down the hill to Route 4. Turn right, and at the sign, left towards Atlit where you can rejoin Route 2 toward Tel-Aviv.

There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate download option.

Click to enlarge the map

Sources:

First Aliyah Museum;

The Aaronsohn House;

Municipality of Zichron Yaakov;

Gidonim Society For The Promotion Of Tourism

At the present time in Israel you can find evidence of ancient techniques of cultivating fruits and vegetables using a system of hillside terraces bordered with stone. Viewing these terraces is easy around the mountains of Jerusalem, where a system of springs, channels and terraces, accessible by hiking trails, has been reconstructed at Sataf as well as at the En Hemed National Park.

Before we start our hike though, it would be fun to stock up on some provisions at the Har HaRuach Goat cheese farm above the village of Abu Ghosh. After a 30 minute drive from either Jerusalem or Tel Aviv, exit Route 1 at Abu Ghosh/En Hemed, drive through the village and then follow Route 425 in the direction of Nataf and Ma’Ale Hachamisha. Before the very top of the hill, turn left toward Nataf and travel about 4 kilometers, entering the Forest in Memory of Polish Jewry on the left. It’s then a few more kilometers on a winding gravel road toward the farmhouse on the ridge in front of you.

The farm is owned by Haim and Dalia Himmelfarb, who with the help of their two girls, sell a variety of natural and goat cheeses, yogurts and labane on Fridays, Saturdays and holidays, starting at 10 in the morning. Haim and Dalia are graduates of the Bezalel academy, but yearning for a change in their lives, moved to the hillside village of Nataf to establish their nearby farm in 1996. Today the Himmelfarb’s own 140 goats that graze on 1500 dunams of pastureland. Goat and sheep cheese has been a mainstay of the local population in the hills surrounding Jerusalem since Biblical times, and the quality of the grass is comparable to pastures found in European countries bordering the Mediterranean. With prior reservations, you can attend Dalia’s workshop on the history of cheese making in the Jerusalem hills, as well as lectures on related topics (054-493-34566, 02-534-5660). After purchasing a picnic basket with your bread, cheese, yogurt or milk you can wander around the barn, perhaps pet the goats roaming the hillside, and then enjoy a snack under the towering evergreens.

Now retrace your drive through Abu Ghosh toward Route 1, but instead of entering the highway, cross the bridge to the entrance of En Hemed National Park. En Hemed is also known in Latin as Aqua Bella, so named by the Crusaders who built, what some archaeologists surmise, is a fortified farmhouse adjacent to the Kisalon stream. The wooded area and adjacent olive grove beautifully frames the high walls of the surviving structure that was built during the period of King Fulk of Anjou, between 1140 and 1160.

Upon conquering Palestine in 1099, the Crusaders built a series of large castles and fortresses on strategic routes, as well as smaller dwellings that served as rest stops for pilgrims. Also, by adopting the feudal system of land ownership that was so well known to them from Europe, the Crusaders awarded noble families tracts of land that were often used for agricultural purposes. While standing inside the courtyard of this fortified farmhouse you can admire its thick walls, the surviving staircase, the tower with its loopholes and the beautiful windows on the second level. It is one of the most beautifully preserved artifacts from the Crusadrer period and certainly merits a stop on your Israel tour.

From that vantage point it would have been possible for the residents of the farmhouse to observe and be observed by Crusaders stationed at the nearby Belmont Castle. As you enter the Eastern hall, note remnants of an olive press and a niche in the wall, which would have supported a wooden beam attached to the press. From the farm house you can continue on a thirty to sixty minute walk along the stream, noting the numerous springs, manmade channels, and unique remnants of the Mediterranean woodland with it’s oak trees and Palestine Buckthorn.

From En Hemed it’s a short drive on Route1 to the Harel/Castel exit and then south on Route 3965 to Sataf. Park your car in the upper parking lot near the information booth where excellent written materials of the five walking trails can be obtained. For hikers, this is a must-see stop during their Israel trip.

Sataf was originally settled during the Chalcolithic Age, and it’s ancient system of terraces dates back 4,500 years. The early inhabitants of the site moved stones to the edge of the natural terraces where they built retaining walls for the imported fertile soil that they used as fill. The two streams emanating from the slopes of Mt. Eitan were used to channel water to plots where crops were grown. Other terraced plots, where olives, figs, almonds, pomegranates and vineyards were harvested, relied on seasonal rains. The remaining stones were used to build watchtowers from which the farmers could keep an eye on their crops.

The JNF/KKL has done an excellent job refurbishing the terraces, the tunnels that were hewn into the water-bearing strata to increase water flow, and channels that carried the water to the storage pools, thereby recreating for the visitor an excellent sense of Biblical farming. In fact, The Parable of the Vineyard in Isaiah Ch. 5 clearly describes this method of farming in the hills surrounding Jerusalem:

My beloved had a vineyard on a very fertile hill. He dug it and cleared it of stones, and planted it with choice vines; he built a watching place in the midst of it, and hewed out a vineyard in it.

Though there are several walking trails of 2 to 3 kilometers in length that can be followed, perhaps the full path marked in green is most interesting. All the trails at times can be steep and are strewn with rocks and stones, making good walking shoes essential. Starting at the upper parking lot, the trail follows an ancient route descending through olive groves and cultivated plots, along Chalcolithic archaeological excavations down to the former Arab village of Sataf.

At the middle of the 19th century the population of Sataf numbered about 450 individuals, and today what little remains of these homes attests to their previous beauty. The village was abandoned in 1948, and  was later used by the Israeli Defense Forces as a training area. Since 1985 the JNF/KKL has been restoring the area to its biblical past, and should be most interesting to visitors participating in holyland travel. After passing the ruins you can make your way down to Ein Sataf, the main spring in the village, and from the terrace above the pool, descend into the cave from which the spring issues. Then, by stooping, you can traverse a tunnel to its other end. The water, which flows through the tunnel, ends at a pool with a capacity of 180 cubic meters from which farmers could regulate the flow of the water into the man- made plastered irrigation channels.

Further along the path you can view the Eretz Israel Tree Garden behind a wall and an iron gate. There, an effort is underway to traditionally cultivate the country’s original species of fruit trees. As you descend, pass the cultivated plots where organic crops are grown, and make your way toward the Bikura spring. On the way you can observe another traditional means of cultivation when space is limited, the use of hanging stairs from the terrace walls. You can then complete your hike by following a traditional mountain trail past walled vineyards following a path to the upper parking lot. There you will find a most welcome site, a restaurant serving full course meals, from which you can admire the beautiful hills of Jerusalem and the trail from which you have just ascended. Truly one of the most beautiful attractions in Israel!

As you depart Sataf, return to the circle and follow the signs for Route 395 leading you to Kibbutz Tzuba. Enter the industrial grounds of the kibbutz and keep to the right, driving up the hill past the kibbutz hotel. The impressive castle on the hill will be to your left and you can park your car under some shady trees before making the rest of climb by foot. It should be noted that this site is in the process of becoming a national park and that some of the area around the ruins are overgrown with weeds, which may hide some holes and gullies.

It can be easily understood why the Crusaders chose to name their castle Belmont, beautiful mountain. Indeed the views over the hills of Jerusalem through the arched windows and doorways of this ruin are magnificent. Note also the vaulted chambers, fireplaces, and the placement of the windows which permitted the inhabitants to enjoy dramatic views from many vantage points. The site of this castle, high on a hill overlooking one of the roads leading into Jerusalem from the West, attests to its strategic military importance through the ages. However, the Crusaders held this fortification only until 1191 when Saladin overran the position and destroyed it. Subsequently, the site and the surrounding area became home to several Arab villages. During Israel’s War of Independence the Palmach, Harel regiment, under the leadership of Yitzhak Rabin, successfully routed the invading Egyptians from Belmont. This action ultimately led to the capture of the nearby fortification known as Castel and the reopening of the road to Jerusalem.

As you retrace your steps into the Kibbutz, you may wish to stop at the hotel for a meal, a beverage or just to enjoy the view from its terrace. The hotel may also be able to arrange for a tour of the “Cave of John the Baptist” which was found on its grounds. The cave was originally part of a large water system hewn from rock during the 8th century BCE, and was later used as a reservoir and baptismal site. Archaeologists now assert that in the Fifth or Sixth centuries CE Christian monks incised drawings on the walls of the cave depicting images dealing with the life and death of John the Baptist.

As you exit the industrial area of the Kibbutz turn right into Route 395 toward Eshtaol. You will now drive through some of the most beautiful mountainous countryside that central Israel has to offer. The latter part of this road will take you through a narrow, winding and forested ravine, making you believe that you are elsewhere in the world.  Prior thereto, you can turn at the circle directing you to Kessalon and travel three kilometers to view the Scroll of Fire. This outstanding sculpture is located in the world’s largest memorial  to the Holocaust, the B’nai Brith Martyrs Forest of six million trees. Nathan Rapoport has vividly depicted the plight of the Jews in the Holocaust and their subsequent struggle to establish the State of Israel in his dramatic design of the sculpture. Travel to Israel certainly merits a stop at this moving memorial.

As you approach the end of your travels on Route 395 near the Eshtaol junction, consider making one last stop to memorialize your agricultural experiences in the hills of Jerusalem with a purchase of an excellent bottle of wine at the Flam winery visitor center and some wonderful spices from the immense collection at the adjacent store. At the junction, a right turn will lead you back to the Jerusalem Tel-Aviv highway.

Click to enlarge the map

There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Sources:

KKL/JNF
Kibbutz Tzuba and Tzuba Tourism Board
Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority

If you have an interest in the mysteries of biblical archaeology, a stop at Tel Gezer to visit the 3500-year-old Canaanite temple of standing stones is a fascinating and moving experience. The size and number of steles, makes viewing them as awesome as a trip to Stonehenge, but in fact, they are right in our own backyard; a mere thirty minutes from Tel Aviv or Jerusalem! From there it’s a short drive to Ramla for a stroll through a shuk with a hummus and falafel stuffed pita in hand. You can end the day viewing a bridge constructed in the Middle Ages which continues to be used daily as an entry to the city of Lod.

The cultic site at Gezer dates to the Middle Bronze Age (2000-1500 B.C.E.), when the well-fortified hill was one of the most important cities in Israel, controlling the junction of the Via Maris and the road to Jerusalem. Its strategic importance through the ages can be easily understood today by viewing from the tel the 180-degree expanse, which includes the Ayalon Valley, The Judean hills and the land to the west toward the sea. This view may be one of your most dramatic vistas of your Israel tour.

There are some other important sites to visit at the tel, but if your time or interest is limited, you may wish to view only the steles by backtracking from the end of the trail. As you reach the center of the northern part of the tel, you are immediately struck by the splendor of ten monolithic stones standing in a row, soldier-like. Each stele is different from the other in size and shape; the tallest being 3 meters high. Some scholars believe that this temple served as a venue where alliances between tribes or city states may have been forged or renewed. The ten monoliths may represent Gezer and 9 allied cities in its vicinity. The sacred precinct also contains a stone basin, which may have served as a container for blood libations poured during the alliance ceremony.

In fact the bible describes a ritual ceremony of this type having occurred as Moses brought the Ten Commandments down from Mount Sinai. In Exodus 24:4 it is written that

Early in the morning, he set up an alter at the foot of the mountain, with 12 pillars for the 12 tribes of Israel…Moses took one part of the blood and put it into the basins, and the other part of the blood he dashed against the alter.

References to the importance of Gezer during the Middle Bronze period can be found in the El-Amarna letters in which the kings of Gezer established their fealty to the pharaoh. However, the glory of the Canaanite city ended in a fiery battle, most likely during the military campaign of Pharaoh Thutmose 111, in 1468 BCE. The remains of the Canaanite tower and the well-preserved mud brick portions of the Canaanite gate, near the beginning of the trail, are impressive visible remains bearing witness to the early importance of Gezer. Also, to the left of the tower, you will note stairs leading to the ancient water system whose 7 meter deep shaft and 45 degree angled tunnel provided sustenance to the residents of Gezer living within the city walls.

After a short walk down the trail you will encounter a beautifully preserved gate and water channel attributed to the 10th Century BCE. reign of King Solomon. Indeed, 1 Kings 9:16 recounts the destruction of Gezer by the pharaoh, who then gave the site to Solomon as part of his daughter’s dowry. Solomon proceeded to build a royal Israelite city, whose massive fortifications remain clearly visible today.

Also dated to the Solomonic period is the well-known Gezer calendar, a small limestone tablet of agricultural chores, evidencing the earliest use of written Hebrew. Unfortunately, the calendar is not on display in Israel.

As you conclude your visit to Tel Gezer, look west, past the space ship-like Nesher factory, where in the distance you should see the town of Ramla. Its historical connection to Gezer is vital, in that the Gezer springs, have through the ages, filled Ramla’s ancient underground reservoirs.

Ramla was founded as an Arab city in 716 CE and served as the capital of “Jund Filastin”, a geographical area of the Syrian province of the Arab empire, until the Crusader conquest in the 11th century. Today thousands of Israeli-Arabs, and Jews, live in Ramla among an architectural mix of medieval mosques, Episcopalian, Franciscan and Greek Orthodox Churches, giving the town an interesting religious and ethnic texture. If you are a participant in holyland travel, your visit to Ramla may be especially meaningful.

It’s a short drive from Gezer west on Route 424, which merges with Route 44, to Ramla for a visit to its shuk, Franciscan Church and the Medieval White Tower. As you enter Ramla from Tel-Hai Street, park your car near the Hospice of St. Nicodemus Clock Tower which served as French staff headquarters during Napoleon’s battle for Palestine in 1799. You can enter this Franciscan Church from Bialik Street daily from 8 to 11 in the morning.

However, you may want to call ahead (08-912 7200) to ensure your expeditious entry, as the complex also houses a private school. A highlight of the beautifully adorned chapel is an original painting by Titian depicting Jesus being removed from the cross. The chapel is oval in shape with magnificent crystal chandeliers and stained glass windows. Its 8 arches are clad in marble and stone.

From Bialik St., return to Herzl St., and proceed left to Dani Mas St., across from the Episcopalian Church with its short/stubbed tower. It will then be about a four-block walk toward the tallest building in the distance, one of the oldest attractions in Israel. This 100 ft. high “White Tower” was built in 1318, during the Mameluk era, over the remains of an earlier tower. It’s a steep climb up the 119 steps, but upon reaching the top you will understand why the tower has served not only as a minaret, but has been of strategic military importance through the ages. Beneath the tower lies a huge water reservoir, while surrounding the exterior of the tower are the remains of the “White Mosque”, which was constructed in the 10th century and clad in white marble. Adjacent to the mosque is a Muslim cemetery with the white painted tomb of the legendary traveler and preacher Nebi-Tzalach.

A short walk from the “White Tower”, near the intersection of Herzel and Haganah, is another large underground reservoir, the pool of St. Helena. There, in what looks like an underground Crusader castle, you can row a small boat under arched ceilings. The pool was constructed in 798 CE venerating Helena, the mother of Emperor Constantine, who some 400 years earlier had traveled to the Holy Land to oversee the construction of churches. Note the carving of this date near the entrance to the pool.

By now perhaps you have built up an appetite. If time permits to sit down for a meal, you may wish to try the humus at the Khalil Restaurant, 6 Kehilat Detroyt, just two blocks to the right of Bialik Street. If continuing your walk with a pita in your hand suits you better, Zaki’s Falafel stand at 104 Herzl is said to be the best in town. Who can travel to Israel without eating a stuffed pita with salad and falafel!

From there it’s a short walk down Herzl St. to the shuk where you can enjoy its vibrant atmosphere, the bright colors of its varied fruits and vegetables, and fragrant spices. In this immediate area you will also find an imposing minaret, which is part of a well-preserved mosque that was originally constructed in the 12th century as a rectangular Crusader church. The modest interior has a long carpeted aisle and a vaulted ceiling supported by 14 arches. The exterior  plaza of the Mosque, which is surrounded by a high wall, has been recently renovated with white marble and stone.

As you walk near the market you will note to the east a neglected area, a remnant of the heavy fighting in Ramla between Jewish and Arab forces in 1948. On Herzl St., to the right of the shuk, a memorial to members of the Israel Defense Forces can be found in a newly developed garden. Also, at the corner of Herzl  and Shlomo Hamelech streets, you will find the Ramla Museum (08 929 2650), which is often overlooked during tours of Israel. In the museum’s three small rooms artifacts, photographs, and jewelry, relevant to Ramla’s major historical periods, are displayed. Most interesting is the hoard of gold coins, whose recent excavation is well documented in English.

At the conclusion of your walking tour of Ramla, proceed by car east on Herzl St., over the railroad tracks. Turn right and then at the traffic light, make a U-Turn following the signs to Route 40, direction Lod. After several miles, and immediately before the Route 1 viaduct, turn left following the sign to Lod-Old City. Proceed to the circle, park your car at the gas station and carefully backtrack by foot to the stream near a grouping of evergreen trees. In front of you lies the oldest stone bridge in Israel still in use today. The bridge was constructed during the rule of the Mameluks in 1273 CE and has well withstood the test of time. Between the beautiful reliefs of the two stone lions an inscription attests to the building of the bridge under the direction of the Sultan Beibars.

This concludes your Israel trip to Gezer and Ramla. The nearby entrance to Route 1 can be used for your return to Tel-Aviv or Jerusalem. Please visit one of my other blogs for other ideas regarding places to see and things to do on your trip to Israel.

Directions to Gezer: coming from Jerusalem on Route 1, Exit at the Latrun junction and take Route Number 3 south less than a kilometer before turning right on Route 424. Proceed west for several kilometers before turning left to Gezer. From Tel-Aviv, exit Route 1 direction Lod/Ramla and proceed on Route 40 and then for a short distance on Route 44 to 424. Follow the sign to Gezer and immediately before the entrance into the moshav, turn right onto the dirt road which will lead you up to the tel. Note that as of March, 2011 the road has deteriorated dramatically since this post was first written. You may wish to use a 4×4 to reach the tel.

Click to enlarge the map

There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Sources:

Ramle Municipality
Israeli Ministry of Foreign Affairs
Haaretz Magazine, June 1st, 2007
Jewish Virtual Library

If you want to escape to one of Israel’s best beaches and combine it with excellent cuisine and a bit of Crusader history, then the place to go to is Herzliyah Pituach.

This seaside community, which is also one of Israel’s largest high tech centers, is just a ten minute drive north of Tel-Aviv. To reach Herzliya Pituach, exit Route 2 at the Herzliyah Pituach exit and proceed west to the open parking lot at the corner of Wingate and Abba Eban St., or to the Herzliyah mall parking lot. There, a pristine, two kilometer long beach is spread in front of you. To some, this beach is one of the greatest attractions in Israel.

Walking north to explore this popular stretch of the Mediterranean will bring you to the archaeological site of Apollonia National Park. However, some visitors may just wish to relax at the waterfront where an umbrella and some chairs can be rented and a drink can be enjoyed. Even a typical Israeli breakfast can be had at one of the many waterfront restaurants right on the beach. What a perfect Israel vacation!

After several hours of basking in the sun, visitors can shower and use one of the new changing rooms at the beach before heading on to explore the Herzliyah Pituach mall. There, you can enjoy a wonderful alfresco lunch or dinner with such choices as sushi, Italian, or Greek cuisines, and always excellent fish, while taking in the views of the sailboats and yachts docked at the harbor.

The afternoon can also be spent renting a boat with a skipper to explore Israel’s coastline. Many charter companies post their names and phone numbers on their boats, but note that unless you can gather a group to share the cost, this could be an expensive proposition. If you are not the seafaring kind, but would rather soak in a bit of history, walk north along the brand new boardwalk and beach for about 30 to 45 minutes or drive to Apollonia, following the brown directional signs on Wingate Street. Driving will of course permit you to venture into the elegant side streets to view the numerous ambassadorial residences in this diplomatic community. Some of these homes are easily identifiable by their national flags or emblems on their gates.

A short drive to the left of the main gate to Apollonia stands the tall minaret of the Sidna Ali Mosque, the main feature of the Sidna Ali National Park.  The mosque is open daily for a visit to its prayer halls, but requires modest dress. On Fridays, Arab worshippers arrive by charter bus to worship at the shrine, which was built about 800 years ago to venerate the Arab warrior Al-Hasan Ibn Ali. Tradition has it, that Ali, a lieutenant to the Sultan Biebers, fell in battle against the Crusaders, at the spot where the mosque is located today. From there, drive back to Apollonia National Park, where you can continue your Israel tour.

Apollonia is located on a kurkar promontory overlooking the Mediterranean. On a clear day you can look south to Jaffa or to the north toward the high rises of Netanya and beyond. Looking down into the shimmering waters of the aqua colored sea one can easily make out the outlines of a former harbor as well as the remains of the early Islamic period wall that had fallen into the sea many years before.

The natural harbor was used at the end of the 6th Century BCE by the Phoenicians, Apollonia’s earliest settlers, who harvested snails to produce a purple dye later used in the making of religious and royal garments. The Phoenicians named the settlement Arsuf, and later the Greeks renamed it after their God Apollo.

Immediately upon entering the national park you can observe a well preserved portion of the crusader moat, and immediately beyond, the remains of a Roman villa, whose inhabitants no doubt enjoyed its unobstructed views of the sea. Time permitting, you may wish to follow the sea path route, rather than the more direct walking path to the crusader fortress.

Walking along the ridge, note the Byzantine cistern, water reservoir and stone lined pool, both of which were part of a sophisticated system that supplied water to the inhabitants of the then 70 acre city. These are the only remnants from the heyday of Apollonia of the 5th and 6th Centuries CE. At that time, the city dominated the coastal plain and was known for its glass manufacturing, its port, fishing industry and oil and wine presses.

At the end of the sea path trail enter the imposing crusader fortress, whose walls are surrounded by a 30 meter wide and 14 meter deep moat, the largest in all of Israel. The crusaders conquered  the city in 1101 CE  and renamed it Arsour, but it was not until 1241 CE that the fortress was constructed under the leadership of  Jean d’lbelin d’Arsour. Subsequently, in 1265 CE, the Mameluk Sultan Beibars conquered Arsour.

One of the most impressive surviving structures at Apollonia is the two-story inner gate of the fortress, which is reproduced on the seal of the crusader nobleman, Seigneur Belian 1st, whose residence was at Arsour. Then proceed to the observation point of the keep, which was part of a 30 foot high tower and try to imagine the crusaders attempting to defend their fortress against the approaching Mameluk army with its massive siege machines. The 2200 large ballista stones displayed at the site, and the remnants of a fire in the Burnt Room, are a vivid reminder of the ferociousness of the 40 day battle that ultimately destroyed Apollonia. Immediately, to the north of the fortress, recent archaeological excavations uncovered a beautifully preserved wine press surrounded by a mosaic floor.

If visitors are fortunate enough to travel to Israel during the summer, they can enjoy an evening of live music under the stars in the Apollonia fortress’ courtyard. The national park should have a concert schedule at the front gate. At the conclusion of the visit, you can return to the beach via a nearby path to enjoy the sunset from a seaside bar. There’s no better way to end a day of travel in Israel!

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Sources:

Israel Nature and Natural Parks Protection Authority

Along the coast of Israel, a mere 15 minutes south of Haifa and 45 minutes north of Tel-Aviv, the caves of Nachal Me’arot, and the tel at Dor beach, provide the visitor with a time capsule of human existence from prehistoric, to ancient and modern times. From Tel-Aviv follow Route 2 and exit at Route 70, toward Zichron Yaakov. At the Route 4 junction turn left and proceed about 13 kilometers to the entrance of the national park, which is truly one of the oldest attractions in Israel.

The rocky cliffs of Mt. Carmel reveal a series of caves whose prehistoric inhabitants can be traced back about 500,000 years. Perhaps the most unique feature of these caves is that Neanderthals lived side by side with a population of modern looking human beings some 100,000 years ago. Their dwellings were in the area of what today is called the Nachal Me’arot Nature Reserve, a national park that includes a wadi with walking trails and a series of caves.

Visitors who are able to climb the steep steps can explore three main caves, the first being the Tabun or Tanur cave. Here, layers of sea sand and microscopic evidence of pollen suggest to researchers that during the Paleolithic age the coast was much closer and was covered with savannah vegetation. The early cultures that used the cave are clearly identified by signage permitting the visitor to understand the sequential evolution of man living for thousand of years at this site.  In fact, the earliest prehistoric inhabitants of the cave were apparently homoerectus and used a hand axe of flint or limestone for skinning and deboning animals such as rhinoceros and hippopotamus. One of the most important finds in the Tabun cave has been the Neanderthal skeletal remains of a female dating back some 120,000 years.

Interestingly, at the nearby Skhul cave, an additional 14 skeletons were excavated, similar to human beings in physical appearance, leading researchers to hypothesize that Homo Sapiens did not evolve from the Neanderthals, but that both lived together contemporaneously in the Mt. Carmel area.

Further down the trail, you will come upon the Nahal, or El –Wad, cave where one of the most important finds has been evidence of the Natufian culture. This 10,000-year-old settlement is thought to have been permanent, with groups of families living in a village type encampment utilizing the cave perhaps for storage and the terrace in front of it for their tents. The most notable feature of this culture would have been the transition from hunter/gatherers to plant growing and animal domestication, and the evolution of crude stone tools to delicate microliths. On the terrace, archaeologists uncovered more than 100 burials with individuals lying in a tightly flexed position, a replica of which is available for viewing. Along side are several round niches carved in the stone, which may have served a cultic purpose.

Visitors wishing to continue their visit at Nachal Me’arot, can follow the footsteps of prehistoric man by choosing one of several walking options, as set forth in the Israel travel guide provided at the ticket window. The circular blue route through the wadi and up the ridge will take you about two hours. On route you can observe hyraxes sunning themselves, or you can just enjoy the cliff flora, some of which are unique to Nachal Me’arot. A wooded area near the ranger station/gift shop has a picnic area, and occasionally inhabitants from the nearby Druze villages will sell pita, olives and sweets near the parking lot.

As an alternative to a hike through the wadi, you may consider a walk on the nearby immaculate white sand beach at Dor. Follow Route 4 south towards Tel- Aviv, and just before reaching Zichron Yaakov and the Arab village of Fureidis, turn right at the sign leading you to Kibbutz Nachsholim and Dor. Your car can be parked within the gates of the kibbutz hotel, near the excellent museum, which exhibits many of the finds from the tel and its adjacent natural harbor.

Archaeologists from the Hebrew University have excavated Tel Dor since 1980, and its remains on the shores of the Mediterranean attest to the site having been a flourishing port city throughout the millennia. In fact, the earliest remains at the tel date back to the Canaanite period ending about 1200 BCE. Later, the Shkil tribe of sea raiders inhabited Dor, as described in the letters of the Egyptian traveler Wen-Amon.The Phoenicians settled at Dor approximately 1100 BCE, and subsequently it became King Solomon’s main port on the Mediterranean.

Walking among the remains overlooking the sea, it becomes evident that the Greco-Roman civilizations were also dominant at Dor. Archaeologists have excavated Roman temples and mosaic floors, as well as stone-walled houses from the Hellenistic period, when the site was known as Dora. Artifacts of beautiful Roman and Greek bowls, plates, jugs and jewelry are displayed at the nearby museum. From the 4th to the 7th century CE, Dor served as a Bishopric, but the Byzantine church was later abandoned. During the Arab period, the village of Tantura was established. Israeli forces captured this village during the War of Independence in 1948, with some of its residents moving to the nearby village of Fureidis, on Route 4.

After visiting the tel you can get a feel for “living at the sea” at modern Dor by exploring the seaside hotel, Kibbutz Nachsholim or nearby Moshav Dor. However, you will no doubt be drawn to the imposing structure on the grounds of the kibbutz, which today houses the museum. The building was initially constructed in 1891 by Baron Edmund de Rothschild as glass bottle factory for his winery at nearby Zichron Yaakov. Interestingly, the manager of the factory was none other than Meir Dizengoff, who later served as Tel-Aviv’s first mayor. Unfortunately, the local sand was unsuitable for glass production, and the workers suffered from malaria, thus resulting in Rothschild’s venture becoming unprofitable. Before the factory closed its doors in 1895, sand was imported from Europe to make some outstanding colored glassware that is on display in the museum.

The structure stood vacant for the next 80 years, until members of the Kibbutz rehabilitated it, turning it into a repository for the finds from Tel Dor and its harbor. Today, a large assortment of anchors, navigational tools, earthen storage jars, Greek and Roman pottery, jewelry and ancient figurines are beautifully displayed throughout the museum. Most impressive is the military equipment from Napoleon’s retreating army from nearby Acco, which was found in the harbor at Dor. Unfortunately, most tours in Israel don’t make a stop at this most interesting museum.

Two large artillery pieces, one captured by Napoleon from the Turks (look for the Ottoman moon crescent and star), and the other from the Spanish army are on display, together with muskets, swords and ammunition. This ordinance was discarded at Napoleon’s orders in the Tantura harbor on the night of May 21st 1799 to make room for wounded soldiers who were to be transported back by horse and stretcher to the French base in Egypt. You may wish to call the museum (04-6390950) to confirm their visiting hours. For  those of you interested in archaeology or history, this is a must-see stop on today’s Israel tour.

The seaside area around Dor, which today includes the town of Zichron Yaakov, was developed in the early 20th century through the vision and generosity of Baron de Rothschild. Though the winery, and the renovated main street of Zichron require a separate visit, one can also appreciate Rothschild’s impact on the area with a visit to the nearby village of Bat Shlomo for lunch at the Schwartzmans.

Returning to Route 4, turn right toward Zichron Yakov, and then left on Route 70, exiting at old Bat Shlomo to the right. The seven stone houses on the picturesque street were commissioned by Rothschild in 1899 as homes for his farmers and workers at the nearby winery. The fourth house on the right is the home of Ziv Schwartzman, a third generation cheese maker and olive grower. Travel to Israel would just not be the same without a stop at the Schwartzmans to enjoy a large variety of cheeses by either sitting in the comfortable canopied garden or inside among the family photographs, historical documents, antique furniture, tools and utensils. Check out the 200 year old Samovar and the Primus stove while Ziv weaves his tales of his grandfather’s and father’s life on the moshav. Also, if you look up at the ceiling, note the 100 year old red clay roof tiles imported by Rothschild from Marseilles, which still keep the water out and the warmth in, at the charming and rustic Schwartzman home.

Please check out on of my other posts for more ideas regarding places to visit and things to do on your trip to Israel.

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There is a podcast available for this post. To listen to it now click this link. If you would like to download it, right click the link and select the appropriate dowload option.

Sources:

Israel Nature and National Parks Protection Authority
Hamizgaga Museum, Kibbutz Nachsholim
The Tel Dor Archaeological Expedition,University of California, Berkley, Archaeological Research Facility