Motherleaf Exterior

A recent visit to Camp Schwab reminded me of visits to the North Shore in Hawaii. Visits to the North would always end with trips to the competing shave ice stands. I remember patiently waiting in line for my soft, pineapple flavored shave ice with a treasure trove of vanilla ice cream and azuki beans on the bottom while chatting away with my best friend as she waited for her rainbow shave ice with sweetened condensed milk topping.

Motherleaf Shave Ice

With the end of our trip to Oura Wan Cottages, I was on a mission to find a shave ice stand, and then I remembered the little shop by Camp Courtney. Soft, melt-in-your-mouth, ice, just like home. We arrived and there were a few people enjoying their huge servings of delight. We ordered ours—one strawberry and one with milk zenzai which is basically sweetened condensed milk with mochi balls and soft bean jam. We ate them---or more like placed them in our mouths and swallowed, drank, as the ice melted instantly. It was heaven under the sun!

Motherleaf Menu

This place is a great place to visit on a warm Okinawan day. The best thing about this place? It’s the best QUALITY shaved ice I’ve ever had in Okinawa. And it is also the cheapest, with the basic flavored ones being only Y150.

Hours: 11:30-6:00 closed Mondays

Phone: 972-3769

Directions: From Courtney’s main gate, turn right and keep driving until you see Family Mart. Motherleaf Shave Ice is right next to Family Mart.

Newlywed Road Signs

After the shock of our first weekend on the island, the next couple of days were essentially one big cram session: learning the new rules of the road, rules on base, and rules everywhere else. Maybe I'm in the minority, but I thought the driving test was a little tougher than expected. I was thankful I'd spent some quality time studying all the foreign road signs and right-of-way rules. (Kenny had received a driving handbook in the mail just before we left the states.) There were two versions of the test, each with 45 questions total: the first 35 multiple choice, the last ten dedicated to road signs. I was sure there would be a question on the BAC limit, and indeed there was. It came as a surprise to me that the legal limit here is .03, which is only a little more than one drink depending on your size.

Kenny and I took the written driving test four days after we landed here. We both passed! Phew! We picked up our Japanese driver licenses after the Newcomers Orientation the next day. This was a marathon of briefs lasting from 0730 to 1400. A light breakfast of coffee, fruit and muffins was provided. Presenters covered everything from curfews to family member misconduct, from popular beaches to off-limits establishments (i.e. a Red Light district on the island.) The theme resonating throughout each brief was that we are ambassadors of the United States, and must always remember that our actions on and off base are a reflection of America as a whole. It seems simple enough, but I feel it's a great responsibility. It really made me think: I want to give Okinawan people a reason to embrace us, not to wish us gone. This is why I am serious about recycling, trying to learn the language, and finding new ways to be a good neighbor.

Speaking of neighbors, we could be stuck inside with ours for days at a time in the event of a typhoon. Winds can be up to 200 mph, and there are four warning stages to be implemented from 72 to 12 hours before a typhoon reaches us. Then there are caution and emergency stages where all outside activities are prohibited. We received a detailed booklet explaining when to bring our loose belongings in from outside and what to have in a typhoon emergency kit. There is a long of items ranging from batteries to bottled water. I've experienced hurricanes back home along the east coast, so I'm interested to see how a typhoon here compares to some of the storms I remember from summers past.

The rules seemed to go on forever, and I tried to memorize whatever I could. Watch out for poisonous snakes, spiders, plants and sea life. Never carry a knife off base--it's a felony here. If you are arrested off base, remaining silent can be used against you in a court of law and you do not have the right to have an attorney present during police questioning. I prayed I would never have to remember those last few.

Newlywed New Ride

Finally, it was time to put our knowledge of the new road rules to the test. We had checked out a few of the lemon lots on Foster and Kadena, and Okinawa Yard Sales (which I've come to LOVE.) Kenny and I made an appointment to see a 1997 Toyota Noah owned by a family of five that was PCSing back to the states. I hadn't anticipated buying a van, but we thought it would be great to have the extra space for camping and scuba trips. After a short test drive, new licenses in hand, we bought our first island vehicle. The registration, transfer of ownership and insurance processes were quick and painless, and the previous owners made sure to take us to the appropriate offices for each. They became our newest friends, inviting us out to Sushi Zen the next weekend! It's funny how quickly you make friends when you're a half a world away from everything you know.

Newlywed Kenny driving

My first time behind the wheel was like being 16 again. Okay, maybe 18…I was a late bloomer when it came to driving (Mom and Dad eventually had to loosen their protective grip.) My point is, the feeling of newfound independence was just the same. Freedom, with a healthy dose of fear. Kenny's driving was surprisingly…refreshing. He drove slower than he ever had (kind of the way I drive when he's making fun of the way I drive.) I reminded him to "Stay to the LEFT!" Gently, of course. And sometimes, not so gently. We would get the hang of this, but in the meantime I was learning to take some very deep breaths.

As we parked, a woman and her children (two young daughters) literally greeted us at our car. They waited for us right as we got out of our car, which was nice gesture from them, but a bit embarrassing for me. After all, with every car exit, things like shoes, a crayon, a book, will almost always tumble out. You know, this van belongs to very active children and a mother who has other things to do than empty the car of things that entertain these kids. Well, this time, a spare shoe fell out. Yes, we have those in here, yay. She led us to the door where her husband greeted us in an apron. In the café, a few people were enjoying their meals.

Soupcon Interior

The little restaurant was definitely a paradise for surfers—mismatched lounging furniture, a relaxed atmosphere, and nice mellow music. Beach, beach, beach was all that came to mind. Surf boards and boogie boards were on the walls, and there was even a shower in the bathroom! We were led to another room in the back that was kid-friendlier than the front, complete with books and a few toys here and there. This is another café that looked like it was inhabited by a military family once-upon-a-time.

The menu was pretty full of different things from appetizers, rice and pasta, salads, main dishes like grilled beef with wasabi sauce, pork in honey mustard, salmon in seaweed butter sauce, bakery items, and soups. They also have party plans.

Soupcon Sandwich

Today, we decided to do the soup of the day lunch set, which was a hearty chicken leg in a tomato-based soup. Chicken liver pate, salami, olive and cheese, and pasta were the appetizers. Then came the salad, drink, and entrée. We also tried the grilled sandwich lunch which came with a chicken sandwich, soup, salad, and drink. The chicken in the soup and sandwich were extremely tender. We were happy with both dishes.

Soupcon Food

Homey and relaxed--definitely reminded me of surf shacks back home. However, this surf shack serves ‘not-so-surf-shacky’ types of food.

Phone: 098-964-3864

Hours: Tuesday to Saturday 12:00-22:00, Sunday 12:00-15:00

Address:  1-6-38 Ishikawa Akebono
Uruma City, Okinawa

Directions: From the Courtney commissary gate, turn left on to 75. There will be a stoplight at Family Mart. Keep driving and when you get to the stoplight right after the horse stables, take a right. You will see a big white house and the netting for Mihara Golf Range as you turn. Drive about 1.3 km and Soupcon Beach Side Café will be on your right.

You may already know that since 2008 we've had a sister site, Okinawa Hai Society, where we have a forum to discuss anything and everything Okinawa-related, and groups to join, and a real sense of community.  But it's not right for everyone; we recognize this.

That's why we created our Facebook Page, where we bring you our new posts and links to current events that may be pertinent to you.  We currently have over 5,500 followers and continue to gain more each and every day.

But it's not enough.  Due to the new setup of our Facebook page - which is out of our hands - our readers' questions often get buried, hidden among our own posts and left unanswered.  It's a problem we're aware of, and we've been wracking our brains trying to solve it.  This week, we finally did.

Late Wednesday night/early Thursday morning we created the Okinawa Hai (Facebook) Society.  The wall was blank, and when we announced its creation our Page followers quickly began requesting to be added as members.  Two days later - a mere forty-eight hours - and we're just about to break the two hundred member mark!  Even better: our members are asking questions and getting answers - quickly!

So far we have threads going about PCSing with kids, PCSing with pets, what to expect from housing, where to find cloth diapers, how to buy cheap firewood for camping purposes, and church groups reaching out to potential congregants.  People who are preparing to arrive are getting advice from those who have been there awhile - one of our members has been on-island for over twenty years!

So please, if you already read this blog but have been wanting to reach out and meet others who are in the same boat - even if it's just virtually - we hope to help you fulfill that need in any or all of these three ways:

Okinawa Hai Society - for those who do not have a Facebook account but still want to get involved -  Powered by YOU.

Okinawa Hai Facebook Fan Page - to get all the latest posts, answer our polls, and pass along pertinent Okinawa and military-related information - Powered by your OkiHai managers.

Okinawa Hai (Facebook) Society - for those who are usually on Facebook anyway and don't want to create a separate account to join our groups - Powered by YOU.

(But please don't forget to continue reading this blog and leaving your two cents in the comments!)

And once again, thank you.  Thank you ALL for helping to make Okinawa Hai into the community it is today.  We truly would be nothing without all your support and wisdom.

Oceans Pizza Booth

Suppose you met a couple of Okinawa newbies (or, you're that Okinawa newbie), still bubbling with excitement and ready to explore and find adventure on this tropical island. And, suppose at the top of their To Do List was to try some Japanese interpretation of American cuisine, to be able to eat a lot of yummy food without spending a lot, and to check out one of Okinawa's beautiful beaches. All at the same time. Oh, and they don't want to "pull out yen" from the ATM. Very particular newbies, aren't they? There are two possible responses:

"Nay, nay, you aim too high. Such a place exists only in myths and dreams, and the occasional popular fiction novel."

or

"Aye, my dear newbies, I know of the most perfect place, in the village called Yomitan. It sits next to the ocean, indeed, is named after the ocean, and as you sit on the patio and drink in the atmosphere, you can fill your gullet with all-you-can eat Japanese-American fare, for the cost of a crisp Andrew Jackson between the two of you. There's a salad bar and soup for starters. Taco rice and pasta and the main attraction, pizza. Green tea, iced tea, coffee and soda. Grape juice and Shikwasa lime drinks. The mini muffins are tasty and the fruit is sweet."

Oceans Pizza View

You, of course, being the experienced Okinawa excursionist that you are, choose the latter response. But you don't even tell them how amazing this pizza is--that the thinner crust is both crispy on the outside, and chewy under the cheese. Just hint that they can find typical American toppings, like pepperoni and sausage, favorites like ham and Okinawan pineapple-topped Hawaiian pizza, and more exotic flavors, like Teriyaki (which has ham, potato, onion, Teriyaki sauce and mayo, and seaweed strips), or even dessert pizza (with cinnamon, fruit, and cereal).

Oceans Pizza

DO tell them to bring American dollars, since the exchange rate is favorable ($1.00 = 100 Yen). DO also tell them that they should get a ticket for the buffet at the register before they eat, but pay at the end (they may BE newbies, after all, but they don't have to LOOK like newbies). Also, DO mention that they can ask the staff to make more pizza for the buffet, if it's run out or if they don't see Teriyaki or Hawaiian pizza (which are a MUST TRY), or some other flavor they make. And, DO suggest they go a little before sunset, not only for the spectacular view, but also to avoid the heat during the day.

Oceans Pizza Pasta Bar

Website: /www.oceanspizza.com

Phone: (0)98-958-7711; English (as per website): (0)90 3794-5459

Hours: 10:30 am -- 9:00 pm. Seems to be open every day.
Payment: Cash only, dollars or yen. Their exchange rate is really good: $1.00 = 100 Yen. They only give change in yen, so there is some rounding that happens if you pay in dollars.

Oceans Pizza Sign

Buffet Prices (includes salad bar, pizza, pasta, soup, taco rice, curry, and free refills for more than 10 kinds of drinks):
Adult: ¥980 or $10 USD
Senior (65 years or older): ¥800 or $8
Child Age 10-12: ¥735 or $7
Child Age 7-9: ¥630 or $6
Child Age 4-6: ¥525 or $5
Child Age 3: ¥250 or $2

Beer, margaritas, gourmet coffee (such as lattés and macchiatos), cookies and other menu items cost extra. Gourmet coffee items range from ¥300 to ¥420. Cookies average around ¥150 each. Pizza can also be ordered for takeout, but is pricey--ranging from ¥1575 for a small to ¥2940 for a large.

Oceans Pizza Exterior

Directions: From Kadena Gate 3, make a left at traffic light onto 74. Drive for 2 km, then turn right at the intersection with the big dragon statue and street signs pointing toward Kadena Town. Go until you get to the intersection of 58 (you'll see a Starbucks and a Caremax gas station on the corners), and make a right on 58. Follow down until you get to 6, where you must turn right or left; make a left (toward Zanpa Beach). Pass Torii Station and keep an eye out for a Lawson convenience store next to a blue highway sign that reads "Zanpa Beach, Zanpa Lighthouse, Zakimi Castle Ruins, Nirai Beach". At the next traffic light after that sign and Lawson, you want to follow the road that veers left (there will be a sign at that light for "Gala"). Follow this road until you see an intersection with a white billboard for Gala and a lime green arrow pointing left; make that left. You're pretty much following the signs for Gala from here on out, as Gala is next door to Ocean's Pizza. There will be a right 90 degree curve in the road, another intersection with a sign to turn left for Gala, Ocean's Pizza, and Hotel Murasaki Mura, and after you pass the red Hotel Murasaki Mura, another spot to turn right with signs for Gala and Ocean's Pizza. You'll start to see the ocean to your left and eventually, a long plaza of shops and restaurants to the right. Ocean's Pizza and their parking lot are at the very end of this long plaza, next to Gala.

1756 Exterior

This is one of those cute little cafés where the owner makes a lot out of such a little space. This place isn’t big at all. In fact, it’s probably the size of the living rooms in base housing—that’s including the café’s kitchen. When we walked in, my kids had nowhere to run. They were curious about the long table full of baked goods displayed beautifully with polka dot napkins resting in wicker baskets.

1756 Table

There were four seats in front of the kitchen and a little bench that would sit four more people a few feet across on the wall. We dined on scones, cookies and cheese bread which were all packaged so nicely, but when I told the owner that we would be eating them there, she heated everything up which made it all taste so much better than what it probably would have tasted at home.

1756 Treats

1756 Café Sweets Factory also had bagel sandwiches, different types of scones—blueberry caramel, green tea, cream cheese, and plain. Then there were biscotti, cookies, gingerbread houses, macaroons of different flavors—honey, chocolate, green tea, muffins, vanilla snowballs, teas, coffees, Italian sodas, lattes, cappuccinos. This was a lot for such a little place.

1756 Interior

We enjoyed everything we ordered and I’m sure we’ll be visiting this place often when we’re in the mood for a little something sweet.

1756 Cookies

Hours: 12:00 pm to 7:30 Daily, Closed Sundays

Phone: 098-939-1756

Payment Accepted: Yen

Directions: From Kadena Gate 2, go straight on the 20 for approximately 15 minutes. When you reach the 85 intersection turn LEFT. You will see the fire station on your right and the entrance to the Awase fish market is immediately after this. Instead of taking a right to go to the fish market, turn left. You will pass a light blue building with pink trimming called Ocean Crest Inn. Right after you cross the bridge, you will see 1756’s Café on the right.

Kijoka Torii

Kijoka Falls

found about this site from my Okinawa Explorer Book. Since I was heading past this area, it was a good idea to check it out. It’s not as impressive as the other nearby falls, in fact, its a prayer site. Jumping in and taking a dip wouldn’t be a good idea at this one. Most people who do visit this site use it as a back drop for photography.

Most of the falls was hard to capture since it twists between rocks and trees, so the cascade at the bottom was all I could take pictures of besides the pool and prayer areas. The stream itself is very small, so I didnt even take any shots of it either.

Kijoka Road

Directions:  This sie is easily accessed from Highway 58 in Kijoka Village. At the fork (after Hentona High School’s intersection) veer right, then make the first right. Follow this road until reach another fork in the road with a two-story lavender building splitting them and veer right again. Follow the narrow road until you see an empty lot on the right and park there. Follow the road until you reach the Torii gate, which is the entrance.
 

Riding with our sponsors from Kadena Air Base to the West Pac Lodge on Camp Foster, I was too tired to absorb much of anything. I stared at the road ahead and tried not to flinch every time we turned left or right…driving on the left side of the road would take some getting used to! I was struck by how dense the area seemed--so many brightly lit signs, businesses, restaurants, and hotels lining Route 58. My mind was a blur. Thankfully, our check-in at the West Pac was a breeze and we were asleep in no time.

Newlywed Foster View

We woke up the next morning to pouring rain. The rainy season was just beginning and we were getting a good dose of it already. Our room was small but comfortable: full bed, desk, cable, internet, kitchenette, mini fridge, and bathroom. Our sponsors (the Meltons) had stocked our room with drinks and breakfast food, which is awesome when you wake up at 4 a.m. and realize you aren't going to fall back asleep! The room was a little on the warm side, about 78 degrees (we didn't have any control over the air conditioning in our room.) Later that morning, our first stop was the commissary. We picked up a few essentials and noted how expensive the produce was--almost six dollars for one carton of strawberries. But that's what the COLA's for, right? The Meltons drove us by the post office, PX, and other landmarks to familiarize us with Foster. Then we went to town -- our first look off base in daylight.

Newlywed Meal

We ate lunch at a noodle place on 58 between Kadena and Camp Lester, called Marugame Noodle.  I had no idea what I was ordering; I just pointed at a picture on the menu that looked like it was worth a shot. Kenny ordered something that looked totally different from mine. We always sample things off one another's plates, but we learned we had to be careful about our table manners here. The Meltons told us that you weren't supposed to pass food from one person's chopsticks to another person's. I later read that passing things from chopsticks to chopsticks is part of the funeral process in Okinawa. Instead, you are supposed to use your chopsticks to place food on a plate. Also, we learned never to insert our chopsticks into a rice bowl and leave them there (this is only for offering rice to the recently deceased.) I expected I would have to take off my shoes here, which we did beside our table. However, I was surprised to learn that it is not customary to tip off base. Having worked as a waitress in college, this felt awkward to me. The more I learned, the more I realized how little I knew about the way of life here. It was overwhelming, but I looked forward to the challenge of understanding it all.

The Meltons had planned to take us to American Village (sort of like New York City's Chinatown, but with Okinawan shop owners marketing to Americans and locals alike.) Mother Nature, however, had other plans. The rain here was intense and unpredictable; it was pouring one minute, drizzling the next, with a piercing ray of sunlight in between the bouts of rain. We stopped at an indoor mall whose name I couldn't read or pronounce, and whose location I forgot as soon as we left. I was hesitant to take pictures inside the stores for fear of being rude; I wasn't sure what was or wasn't socially acceptable yet. I was so awestruck with my new surroundings that I couldn't retain basic information.

Newlywed Sign

What I do remember were the colorful signs that seemed so daunting. Would I ever learn this new language? I remember the dresses and unique fashions that all seemed tailor-made for a petite woman like me (I'm a towering 5 foot 1 and a half.) Most of all I remember the smiles from strangers. They seemed to understand I was among the clueless island newbies, but they didn't seem to mind. They met my quizzical expressions with encouraging nods. I respected their patience.

The biggest thing thing we accomplished this first day was getting cell phones. There are two local carriers with stores at Camp Foster: AU and SoftBank. Both offered free phones with a 2-year contract (basic phones, not smart phones.) Both offered similar plans, but AU seemed to have more reliable coverage. It was tough to make this decision so quickly, but I'm glad we had local phone numbers right away. For us, it simplified the check-in process (i.e. providing phone numbers in paperwork.)

We fell asleep early that night, but my eyes didn't stay shut for long. I was suddenly wide awake, expecting daylight any moment. Then I rolled over and saw the clock: 2 a.m. It would be a long night. I laid there and stared at the dark ceiling for the next three hours, then gave up. Kenny couldn't sleep either, so we had another early start to the day.

The Meltons offered to take us to their church that Sunday morning. We happily obliged. They drove us to New Beginnings International Christian Center. What an experience! Almost all of the families there had some connection to the U.S. military, and they were incredibly welcoming. It felt great to be in an atmosphere like that on our first Sunday in Okinawa. As far as I was from my family in the states, I didn't feel so alone. Everyone there treated us like their own family. Although Kenny and I like to explore several churches before we settle on one, this was an exceptional place to start.

That evening the Meltons hosted us for dinner. They showed us around their multiplex home, giving us a rough idea of what we could expect if we were offered similar living quarters. (More about our housing experience is yet to come!) It was a relaxing evening, and the perfect way to unwind from a whirlwind of a weekend. Great food, wonderful company. We ended the night with a little taste of home, stopping by Baskin Robbins on base. I'm a sucker for vanilla soft serve with rainbow sprinkles. It reminds me of my childhood summer nights after a fishing trip with my dad. I missed the people back home, and I think in a strange way, that ice cream cone made me feel closer to them.

I know that I'll miss my family for as long as I'm here. But I also know they'd be the first to scold me if I didn't take advantage of all this island has to offer. And so far, it's been simply amazing.

Tsuboya Vill Map

Tsuboya Vill Street

After visiting the Tsuboya Pottery Museum, don’t miss taking a walk down Yachimun Alley. Plan on spending at least an hour discovering adorable little shops, cafes, and watch skilled artisans work their creations. You can even create some pottery of your own!

Naha’s Tsuboya District is the center of Okinawan pottery, and has been for many years. Even though WWII took its toll on Tsuboya’s craftsmen, they bounced back from the ravages of war and it is alive and thriving. Dozens of workshops are still operating after being passed down through generations. Two forms of pottery are produced here; Arayachi, which is unglazed pottery, and Joyachi, which is glazed pottery.

Arayachi was typically used for large storage vessels for awamori, water, or bean paste. Some smaller items were created for measuring devices. Joyachi is more colorful, and usually made into vases, teapots, bowls, plates, and flasks for carrying awamori.

This entire district flourished many years ago because of the Ryukyuan Empire’s increased trading with China and Southeast Asia. Then after WWII there was a shortage of necessary items for everyday life, so Tsuboya District produced many needed items.

As you travel along the main road, notice the street is made with limestone cobblestones. It’s a one-way street that you will find many people walking along. Several shops are on the main road, but the treasures we found were on the side roads that branch off of the main alley. At the museum you are given a map that shows where to find ancient wells, pagodas, and kilns. Some of the areas were under renovation when we were there, but they post many pictures along the fences so you can see what they are restoring. Also on the side streets were hidden cafes and workshops. Walking along the street is a treat in and of itself—you feel as though you’ve been transported to a beautiful village instead of in the middle of a large city!

Tsuboya Vill Workshop

At a few places you can actually create your own pottery. For around 3000 Yen you can create a Shisa, bowl, plate, or hanging Shisa. Plan on about one hour to spend creating—they have posted times for when the classes start.

Tsuboya Vill DIY

We were lucky enough to come upon a craftsman working on creating a Shisa. He smiled and waved at us, and we realized he had been featured in the movie they show at the museum down the street! Watching him work was fascinating. Another thing we noticed was how friendly everyone was. Not much English was spoken, but everybody went out of their way to try and explain things, and almost everyone on the street stopped to say “Konnichiwa!” as they passed on by. We were truly overwhelmed with the kindness and positive atmosphere all around us as we continued to discover a treasure around every corner. You will, too!

Tsuboya Vill Shop

Tsuboya Vill Cafe

April 3rd each year marks the start of a festival paying homage to the Shisa. April is “shi” in Japanese and 3 is “san” which makes the 3rd the anniversary day of Shisa. The festival at Tsuboya Village includes Taiko drum performances, exhibitions, tours of factories, and discounts on pottery at different shops. There is a great article here that tells more about the festival and surrounding area. I realize this article is too late for this year, but put it on your calendar for next year!

Advice: Go to the Tsuboya Pottery Museum first! It is well worth your time and you learn about everything going on in the village. The museum charges a small fee, but touring the village is free.

Directions: Parking is very limited, and you must pay to park. It’s easiest to park at the museum, or park along Kokusai Street and walk to the village. Travel south on 58 to Naha City and follow the signs for Kokusai Street. Parking is cheaper if you park a block or two off of the main street. Then, walk to the north end of the street until you see the Heiwadori Arcade. Walk through the arcade and you’ll see the museum and district at the end of the street. To park at the museum, we took 58 heading south, then took the Ginowan By-pass to the 330. When the route changed to 330, after about 4 kilometers start looking for a McDonalds on your left. Take a right at the first light after this (not the one right next to McDonalds—it’s a one way street). Follow that road until it splits and go right. At the end of this street is the Museum.

CONTRIBUTED BY AMY MADDOCKS

Naha’s Tsuboya District has been the center of Okinawan pottery since 1682, but they say the earthenware first began being made about 6,600 years ago. The most famous Okinawan pottery is tsuboya-yaki, and it is still being made after being passed down from generation to generation. These are just a sampling of the facts and information to be found at the Tsuboya Pottery Museum.

Okinawans, as we learned at the museum, have cultivated a unique culture of pottery through their interaction with nature and exchanging with neighboring countries. The main purpose of the museum is to display Tsuboya-yaki (Tsuboya ware) and to show the background of Tsuboya, which also played a significant role in the development of all Okinawan pottery.

We learned all about the different forms of pottery, both glazed and non-glazed. We also learned how WWII took its toll on Tsuboya’s craftsmen. After the war, kilns were deemed an annoyance in the Naha area and most were destroyed. Others resisted, and Tsuboya district is thriving today (although they now use electric kilns that don’t pollute the air with smoke).

Tsuboya Hall

The museum has three levels: the first floor shows pottery displayed in chronological order, and includes a replica of a traditional Okinawan home and how pottery was used all throughout.

Tsuboya Traditional Home

It also has a screening room that shows a twenty minute video showing local artists working at their trade. Even though we didn’t understand the language of the movie, it was worth watching how they create their pieces of art!

Tsuboya Theater Room

The second floor displays the process of pottery making, showcasing more pottery and the different tools used. The third floor is a temporary exhibition room that has projects open to the public as a rental gallery. The pieces here were our favorite, as they were unique and creative.

Tsuboya S Kiln Entrance

Right next to the museum are the remains of Fenu Kama (south kiln) and Nishinume Pagoda. We would not have noticed all there was to see if it wasn’t for the security guard in the museum. He spoke a little English and helped us discover all there was to see. He even offered to take pictures of us throughout the museum, and made sure we saw the displays outside that are harder to locate.

Tsuboya Nishinume Pagoda

The museum is a beautiful sight to behold, and even my husband (who cringes when I say “museum”) enjoyed his visit. I ended up having to drag him out after two hours of exploring! The entire place is family friendly, and the people working there went out of their way to guide us and make us comfortable. We were even given a free gift—a poster showing pottery and the Japanese calendar. I also felt like they didn’t see Americans very often (I could be wrong about this). We felt slightly like a novelty and didn’t see another American the entire time we were there. I hope this isn’t true, as this is truly one museum on Okinawa you don’t want to miss!

Keep your eye out for different Commemorative stamping stations situated on the 1st and 2nd floor. They also give you a brochure in English along with a guide book showcasing all there is to see (the guidebook must be returned, but the brochure you get to keep).

Tsuboya Pottery Outside

Also, when you are finished with the museum plan on spending another hour or so touring the village, also called Yachimun Alley. In the brochure you will get a map of the village and the different wells and kilns you can explore.

Tsuboya SK Pottery

Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. (closed Monday’s and New Year holidays)

Fee: Adult-315 Yen, Students-210 Yen, Child-105 Yen (they also have group rates)

Directions: There are several ways to get there. We took 58 heading south, then took the Ginowan By-pass to the 330. When the route changed to 330, after about 4 kilometers start looking for a McDonalds on your left. Take a right at the first light after this (not the one right next to McDonalds—it’s a one way street). Follow that road until it splits and go right. At the end of this street is the Museum. Parking is limited and you must pay to park. Another way to get there is to park close to Kokusai Street. Toward the north end of Kokusai is the Heiwadori Arcade. Walk through the arcade and you’ll see the Museum. You could also take the expressway to downtown Naha and follow the signs to Kokusai Street.