Okinawaology Blog

A Film about the Uchinanchu People

2012-11-07T13:44:00.000-06:00

Hello Everyone, I'm posting today to share a film I received from the Secretariat of the 5th World Uchinanchu committee. He and his people produced this wonderful film to promote the festival and bring Understanding to their mission of networking the worlds Uchinanchu people.

In 2011 from October 12th to the 13th the Okinawan Government hosted the 5th Worldwide Uchinanchu Festival in Okinawa Japan. This has been in existence since 1990 and occurs every five years. Uchinanchu means a person of Okinawan lineage who had ancestors who emigrated to other countries for economic reasons. These Okinawans many times did not return to Okinawa and began to take on cultural characteristics of the countries where they had settled. This resulted in many uchinanchu who were born outside Okinawa that had lost cultural ties with their Okinawan culture. The Government of Okinawa during these world festivals welcomes home these uchinanchu people making them feel welcome and giving them opportunity to reconnect with their Okinawan heritage. They meet family members that are sometimes generations apart during their return visits. This film displays the massive undertaking the Okinawan government takes on and shows the Okinawans care about their people and preserving their cultural ties throughout the world.

Please enjoy the film. The approximate run time is 42 minutes. All credit for this film is given to the secretariat and his committee who planned and organized this event and the production of this film to share with the world.

Origins of the Ryukyu Kingdom by Tom Freeman

2012-06-01T15:25:00.000-05:00

Occasionally I have people contact me asking permission to use the information or pictures from the Okinawaology blog to create other works of meaning to the Okinawaology cause. Mr. Tom Freeman contacted me not long ago for just such a request. He asked permission to use some of the pictures I had taken in Okinawa for his newsletter which he writes for the “Ryukyu Kempo East Asian Martial Arts Coalition” or Unante Kenkyukai Kaiho. Yesterday he sent me a copy of the newsletter and to say the least I was extremely impressed with his talents. His article Origins of the Ryukyu Kingdom impressed me so much I have decided to post it here for all to read. Please comment with your thoughts on this informative article.

Origins of the Ryukyu Kingdom

This is a short summary of the “Golden Age of the Ryukyu Kingdom” and its relationship to it’s evolving Martial Arts. In order to understand the Life Protection Arts of Okinawa we need to look into the early history of the Ryukyu Kingdom itself. Researching the Kingdoms past can be very difficult since virtually all written documentation's where destroyed during WWII and the allied bombing of the island.

Slowly over the years new evidence of Okinawa’s past has been coming to light and a better understanding of how the martial arts fit into the culture of the people of the Ryukyu Kingdom. So lets begin our journey with the Three Kingdom period. Between the reigns of King Tamagushuku (1314 to 1336) and that of the Sho Hashi (1422 to 1439) there were three kingdoms on the main island of Okinawa, all competing for trade with China and official recognition of the Ming Emperor. They were the Northern Kingdom (Hokuzan), the Central Kingdom (Chuzan), and the Southern Kingdom (Nanzan).

This division has been traditionally interpreted as the result of a rebellion against the authority of King Tamagushuku which split the country into three powerful factions, but some scholars think this was a later interpretation of the facts and that the so-called “kingdoms” were simply three powerful feudal areas which were contending for supremacy and which were finally brought together under King Sho Hashi of the Central Kingdom in 1429. It was in the reign of Sho Hashi that the Emperor of China first conferred upon the king the family name of Sho (pronounced Hsiang in Chinese), sent rich gifts of lacquer and embroidered ceremonial robes to the king, and gave to the kingdom a great lacquered tablet upon which were inscribed the characters for Chuzan.

Though this was the beginning of a “Golden Age” for the Kingdom of the Ryukyu's, the centralization of power in the hands of the king at Shuri and the subjugation of the Islands of Amami, Miyako and Yaeyama in a complete sense did not take place until the reign of King Sho Shin (1477-1526) who is perhaps the most outstanding political figure of Okinawan history.

In 1477, Sho Shin became the third king of the second Sho dynasty at the early age of 12 and died at age 61. His time on the throne of fifty years made him the longest-reigning monarch among Ryukyu’s kings. The reign of Sho Shin, however, was not only long but many historians have pointed out that it was a reign meriting particular attention within the history of the Ryukyu kingdom.

Hachimachi (Shuri ofu).

A kind of hat showing the wearers social status by
means of colors and patterns. Purple and yellow
showed the noblest rank, then came scarlet and green,
and blue showed the lowest .

First of all, a system of status ranks was established, headed by the king. For example, the color and pattern of the turban-like hachimachi worn by men served to demarcate status differences. The status of the king’s retainers was also indicated by the composition of the kanzashi men wore in their hair. Needless to say, because this system of status ranks was set up around the King and his family
and the elites who served the king, the result was its solidification into a status system of the royal family and elite social strata.

Second, a system of official ranks was established. The retainers serving the king were granted a variety of formal positions in government and titles, and were formed into a hierarchical organization. The central organ of this administrative structure was located in the Shuri castle, and was generally called the “Royal Government”

Ryukyu Kingdom Caste System
The Pechin were part of a complex caste system that existed in Okinawa for centuries, they were the feudal warrior class that was charged with enforcing the law and providing military defense to the nation, Okinawan or Ryukyu Kingdom.

The specific rank of a Ryukyu Samurai
was noted by the color of his hat.

Royalty - Sho family
Oji :Prince
Aji or Anji : Descendant of Prince,

cadet branch of Royal House

Shizoku - privileged classes

Ueekata or Oyakata :Lord, High-Ranking Official

Pechin

Pekumi : Official

Satunushi Pechin : Middle Official

Chikudun Pechin : Lower Official

Satunushi : Upper Attendant

Chikudun : Lower Attendant

Heimin : Commoners

The Pechin class was also responsible for the development of and training in the traditional fighting style, called Ti (Te), which developed into modern day Karate. The Ryukyu Pechin kept their fighting techniques secret, usually passing down the most devastating fighting forms to only one member of the family per generation, usually the eldest son. This warrior class became part of the caste system in Okinawa. Placed in the upper class, the Pechin would often travel with a servant at their side.

Any unarmed self-defense techniques were of great importance to them, given repeated weapons bans by the Ryukyuı King and Japanese Satsuma invaders. The first time that the Pechin's weapons were confiscated was during the reign of King Shoshin (1477 1526), who unified Okinawa into one Ryukyu Kingdom. The second time that the Pechin were disarmed was after the Satsuma invasion of 1609, which prohibited the carrying of weapons by the Ryukyu Samurai.

The Ryukyu Pechin was not completely without weapons, historians in Okinawa have recovered documents that state that the Satsuma outlawed the ownership and sale of firearms in Okinawa. However the Pechin class and above were allowed to keep firearms that were already in their family's possession.

Toshihiro Oshiro, historian and Okinawan martial arts master, states:

"There is further documentation that in 1613 the Satsuma issued permits for the Ryukyu Samurai to travel with their personal swords (tachi and wakizashi) to the smiths and polishers in Kagushima, Japan for maintenance and repair. From the issuance of these permits, it is logical to infer that there were restrictions on the Ryukyu Samurai carrying their weapons in public, but it is also clear evidence that these weapons were not confiscated by the Satsuma."

In the Ryukyu kingdom various annual events and rites were carried out by the King to ensure peace and security of the country. They reflected the strong influence of both China and Japan. The grandest of all events though was carried out on New's Years eve and culminated in a ceremony performed on New Years morning. The heir to the throne, the "Aji"
along with various chieftains, ministers, and other courtiers would line up in rows in the "Una" (courtyard) where a solemn Chinese style ceremony would be performed. Here are
some Pictures taken by Mr. Tom Corrao of the re-enactment of the ceremony which he attended in 2002.

The administrative organization of the Ryukyu Kingdom was comprised of the Shuri Royal Government. Headed by the King and a regent as well as three prime ministers “Sanshikan” (Council of Three) with various named civic offices under them. A Ministerial class called the Omotejyuugonin organized of fifteen members from the civic offices studied
issues of concern to the administration and reported their findings to the top ministers.

The regent and prime ministers conducted affairs in Hokuden which is the north hall of the castle.

Pechin - Pechin were one of eleven different classes of people during Okinawa's old Ryukyu Kingdom Period: princes, aji, oyakata, pechin, satunushi-pechin, chikudun pechin, satunushi, saka satunushi, chikudun, chikudun zashiki, and niya. The Pechin served from 1509 to 1879, starting from when Sho Shin imposed a class structure upon the gentry, until the dynasty was abolished.

The pechin officials were largely responsible for, but not limited to, civil administration, law enforcement, and related matters. The pechin class was divided into Satunushi and Chikudoun. The Satunushi were from gentry while the Chikudun were commoners. These two divisions were even further divided into ten subcategories based upon seniority. - The Takanoya Account

Okinawa's Peace Memorial Park

2012-05-09T12:01:00.001-05:00

A good portion of our tour with the Itoman City group was spent at the Okinawa Heiwa Kinen Koen or Peace Memorial Park. The park is the location of the southern memorial peace monuments erected in honor of the many victims of the worst tragedy in Okinawan history. The monuments were created in the hope of preventing the same tragic mistake again.

I had been to the peace park many times in the past while living in Okinawa during the eighties but the park has been greatly developed since then an has become a totally different environment today. Here is a video of our experience. You'll notice at the end of the film clip I found an elevator and took it to the top where I found an observatory deck where I was able to get some good shots of the park from above.

Towering over this extensive park is the Peace Prayer and Memorial Hall. Inside the hall there is a Peace Buddha and paintings done by artists from around the world, the hall represents the hope for world peace.

Adjacent to Memorial Hall is the Cornerstone of Peace and the stone wall monuments that hold the names of more than 234,000 people who lost their lives during the battle in Okinawa. It is very similar to the Vietnam war memorial in Washington DC but has many more names included here.

The Okinawan names included on the walls belong not only to victims from the Battle of Okinawa, but also to every known Okinawan who lost their life anywhere in the Pacific during World War II. It is estimated that one third of the island’s total population perished during that time. The walls also include the names of Japanese, Americans, and all other foreigners who died during the Battle of Okinawa.

The rows of black granite engraved with names of the lost souls who are remembered here is a sobering sight. Nearly all Okinawans have a family members, relatives, or friends whose names are engraved on the walls.

The park has been designed so that the sun will cast its shadow past the Cornerstone of Peace and down the monuments center path on June 23 each year, the exact day the battle for Okinawa ended. Every year on this date (Irei no hi), a memorial service takes place and there are free music concerts are held at the park. Facing the ocean, you'll find “Monument Road” on the right, with its beautiful greenery and Ryukyu Matsu trees. Follow the path and you'll find a beautiful view of the ocean which provides a stark contrast to the bloody scenes that took place on that spot in 1945. The cold, gray monuments, which were constructed along that path were erected there by Japan’s other prefectures to memorialize the soldiers from their prefecture who died in Okinawa. If you walk to the end of the road to find another monument on the very site where Lieutenant General Ushijima, Commander of the Japanese Imperial Army in Okinawa, killed himself before the island fell.

The Peace Memorial Park also has a beautifully designed museum. The museum features many historical artifacts from the war and written accounts by survivors. It incorporates an Information Center that focuses on the Battle of Okinawa with the theme of peace. The displays are very moving and there are explanations in English. The entrance fee is 1300 for adults and 1150 for students. The museum center is open everyday from 9 am to 5 p.m.

Itoman’s Kohchi hara and Akahigi bara no Haka (The Kohchi and Akahigi Family Tombs)

2012-05-08T08:31:00.000-05:00

Who would consider a trip to a burial tomb to be a tourist attraction? Well one of the more unusual places we visited on the Itoman city tour was the Kohchi hara and Akahigi bara no Haka (The Kohchi and Akahigi Family Tombs). Here is a video followed by information about Okinawa and it burial traditions.

In Okinawa tombs hold the remains of all ancestors of one lineage, from father to son, to grandson, to great- grandson, continuing down the family tree. This means a tomb will contain all family remains under the male members of the family name including wives who married into the family but not the sisters unless they never married.

What makes the tombs of the Kohchi and Akahigi family special is that they contain the remains of more than 5,500 ancestors! These two family lineages have been traced back to 1684. Every deceased descendant from that time to today has found these tombs to be their final resting place.

Unlike the quiet and somber atmosphere you might expect from a visit to a western style graveyard, visits to Okinawan tombs are much happier. During the Seimei (shiimii) festival, which takes place on the 15th day of March according to the lunar calendar, Okinawans clean the area surrounding their ancestral tombs the day before. On the day of Seimei an abundance of food is prepared and brought to the family tomb. Family members then sit down in front of the tomb and enjoy food and drink in honor of their ancestors.

Traditionally, Okinawan people would place the body of their deceased ancestors inside the family tomb after performing various funeral rituals. The tomb will then be re-opened three years later and a female family member would perform the important task of cleaning the bones of the deceased. Before washing them, she would first remove any flesh that might remain. The bones would then be transferred to a special burial urn and placed back inside the tomb. Then thirty-three years later the tomb would be opened again and the bones removed from the urn. They would then be placed on a platform next to other ancestors completing the final burial rites.

After the war, the practice of cremating bodies became widely accepted and Okinawa’s bone-washing ritual gradually disappeared. Nowadays bodies are cremated and placed in an urn. The urns are then placed in the tomb with others that have been placed there before them. Okinawans consider a visit to the tomb as a visit with family and everyone love company.

To find the these family tombs in Itoman walking east from the Itoman Rotary to the second traffic light, a very small one-way street appears on the right side on the corner. This small road leads straight down to the tombs, which are on the left, behind the cement wall. To get there by vehicle, turn one block before the traffic signal and drive around the block.

Hakugin Do (Fisherman's Shrine)

2012-05-07T11:15:00.001-05:00

During our stay in Okinawa we stayed in Yoza a small village that is now part of Itoman City. As part of the festivities of the Uchinanchu Taikai we participated in a tour of the southern sites around Itoman. The city took the visiting uchinanchu and there families around by bus and showed them the things in the area that make their home town area special. One of those places was Hakugin Do the fisherman's shrine.

Long ago, it is said that a fisherman from Itoman once borrowed a large sum of money from a Satsuma Samurai named Kodama Saemon. The fisherman however, was unable to pay his debt, so he hid from Kodama in a nearby cave. The samurai grew angry and began searching for the fisherman, asking villagers about his whereabouts. Kodama soon found the fisherman and threatened to kill him with his mighty sword unless he received payment. The fisherman begged for his life “No matter how much anger you feel, do not strike with your sword,” he pleaded. The words he spoke reached Kodama’s heart and the samurai decided to show him mercy. He extended the time of repayment for the fisherman’s debt until the following year. The fisherman wept silently for joy in the darkness of the cave and thanked Kodama for his kindness. Upon his return to Kagoshima, Kodama faced a similar situation when he found his wife that night asleep in his dark home with another man. Consumed by anger, the samurai drew his sword to kill the sleeping stranger. But at the height of his anger, just before he was about to strike, he remembered the words of the fisherman and his act of mercy. He dropped his sword to his side. Realizing there was someone else present, the two sleeping bodies awoke. To his astonishment, Kodama discovered that the person next to his wife was actually his mother, who had slept next to her daughter-in-law purposefully dressing as a man to help protect her while Kodama was away. Kodama broke down and wept as he realized he had nearly killed his own mother.

Kodama returned to Okinawa wishing to thank the fisherman and to cancel the debt, but the fisherman had already gathered the money he owed Kodama and insisted on repaying him. After arguing for quite a while, they finally agreed to put the money inside the same cave where the fisherman had hid. Today, the small shrine of Hakugin Do marks the spot of this legendary cave.

Here is a video I took of our trip to Hakugin Do.

Hakugin Do is still used for prayer and plays today and is an important part in the spiritual customs of fisherman during the first day of the Chinese lunar New Year. The shrine also receives many visitors during the Itoman ha (Dragon boat) races in June. Hakugin Do is located about 500 meters north of Itoman Rotary on Route 331, on the right. When entering Itoman by vehicle from Naha, the shrine is on the left just past the FM Taman Radio Station.

A Visit to the Shisa-en Izumi, Okinawa

2012-05-06T13:14:00.000-05:00

During our 2011 trip we stayed mostly in the southern and central part of Okinawa but did manage a few excursions to the northern areas. On one of these excursions my wife mentioned that she had clipped a magazine article a couple of years before that was about a unique coffee shop located in Izumi Okinawa. Our trip for the day did not include Izumi but since it wasn't far from where we were (and my wife just happened to have the two year old article with her) we decided to see if we could find it. It ended up being one of the places that will probably remain in my memory banks for quite some time as it was a very beautiful and unique experience.

Shisa-en is a coffee snack shop located in the northern forest region of Okinawa. It's located in Izumi, a place that is famous for growing tangerines and pineapples. It's well off the beaten path and a bit hard to find situated at the top of a steep grade on top of a small mountain. When driving the road to the top of that mountain I though this place is so removed that it couldn't possibly have the customer base it might have had if they had just built it down on the main road. How would a tourist bus ever make it up such a steep mountain road. Actually nothing could have been further from the truth. Not the part about the bus because there was just no way! But the part about not having a rich customer base. The place was wonderful and there were many customers there when we visited.

Here is a short video of our experience. I put music behind it because I like the sound of it but my wife says its a sad song about someone who misses home. I think its appropriate though because I really want to return next time I'm in Okinawa.

Even though this kisaten (coffee shop) does not serve meals, it is a nice place to relax and enjoy the fresh air of the Motobu region. There are snacks just not full course meals. It is a place where local artisans display their art and pottery. There is a room upstairs with open walls, giving visitors a feel of being in a tree house. There are also covered areas with benches within the gardens that surround the building. Something I noticed was a tremendous amount of butterflies there which were soothing to watch. The coffee shop itself is a bit pricey with drinks running about 500 yen each but when you consider the atmosphere it is well worth the price. There were three of us and we each had a drink and also ordered two orders of snacks (a vegetable crepe) and I believe our bill was 2300 yen. I think overall you will be very pleased if you visit this establishment.

To get to the Shisa-en You need to pass the intersection where route 123 begins (There is a gas station on the corner) after entering Izumi from Nago on route 84. Turn left at the river and follow the wooden signs. To get there by bus take the number 70 or 76 bus and get off at the Dai Ni Izumi bus stop. From there you will need to walk to the small bridge where the traffic light is located and take the road next to the river all the way to the top.

Be prepared and carry water with you when venturing about in Okinawa.

Cultural genes are inherited from parents and grandparents

2012-05-04T17:01:00.002-05:00

Culture plays a dramatic role in the way people think, feel, and act. I believe that all cultures have certain values, beliefs, customs, language, knowledge, and worldviews that directly reflect the people as a whole. Okinawans are a great example of this and many of them continue to act on the ways of the past in ways that makes them very unique human beings. Many of the older generation on Okinawa today grew up poor. They depended on their neighbors and on their communities when times were hard. Through cooperation they built a spiritually rich society which can still be seen on the island today in the ways of the people. Here is an example of what I mean. This is a video of a young boy I happened on while browsing YouTube. In the video the young boy is dancing to the delight of the crowd in a local department store. It is quite obvious to me that he has been influenced by the people around him as his style of Okinawan dance could not be possible without exposure to people who strive to keep there culture alive.

The young mans moves are very impressive. Did you noticed his shirt also reflects the cultural beliefs of his parents, as it reads " Take it Easy - Positive Life" which seems to be the jist of the Okinawan lifestyle. I speak of the Okinawan lifestyle of old because everyone in this modern world reflects back on their cultural roots when selecting their lifestyle. While the elders of Okinawa understood the importance of maintaining the culture many of the younger generation have not sufficiently inherited their cultural genes. The influences of modern Japanese and American culture upon the island has corrupted the gene pool. Many young people today are far more interested in eating a Big Mac rather than a plate of goya champuru. I believe that in order for the average Okinawan person to attain Fukuju (A happy and healthy longevity) they must participate in the societal needs of their communities. Without their participation the cultural genes will be stifled.

During our visit to Okinawa in 2011 I was very impressed with the daughter of my wife's sister as it was very apparent to me that she was carrying on Okinawan traditions passed along by the generations before her. She was also successfully melding these traditions in with the natural modern lifestyle of present day Okinawa. Here is a picture of her children I received just this week which proves she understands the importance of passing along cultural genes.

It is important that children find some fun and excitement in their cultural heritage to instill a sense of heritage in them understanding where they came from and how important it is to remember the past.

In America it is even harder to pass on the Okinawan cultural genes. Far removed from the feelings of community still found in Okinawa today the uchinanchu living in America must work hard to overcome the typical selfish mindset of the American youth. One promising factor I see though, is through the work of the Okinawa Kenjinkai's in American striving to give member's children a sense of their cultural heritage. In Chicago they are teaching cultural aspects of dance, taiko, and karate to the children which is the first step of ownership in a rich cultural community. The children are our future and we should not neglect our responsibilities to pass on the cultural genes to the next generation.

The Ryukyu Kingdom (Second Sho Dynasty)

2012-04-28T22:01:00.000-05:00

Sho Hashi’s descendants ruled successfully until 1461 when a young king by the name of Toku came to the throne. Prosperity diminished from the foolish spending of Toku’s father, Sho Taikyu, whose policies had improved the lifestyles of the royal family and the upper class, while the rest of the island lived a life of poverty. Toku was too young to recognize the chaos his father had caused, creating discontent among the pheasants that were not eager to see their taxes spent on lavish parties for the royal family. Even worse, he isolated himself from the royal court when he led an expedition to conquer a small meaningless island to the north that lay enroute to Kyushu.

Toku’s actions set the stage for a rebellion upon his death. Kanemaru, who had served as treasurer to previous kings, led the successful coup and declared himself king in the year 1470. He took the name Sho En and began a second dynasty that would see four hundred years of rule by the Sho En royal bloodline.

Upon receiving confirmation of his authority from the Emperor of China, Sho en enjoyed a brief but successful reign on the throne. Sho En changed the way future kings would make decisions by giving the high priestess of Shuri court a level of authority his ancestors had never seen before. His decision enabled noro high priestesses to play pivotal roles in political decisions that affected the entire kingdom.

King Sho En, 1415-1476

When Sho En’s son, Sho Shin, came to the throne in 1477, he was just 14 years old. Despite his young age, he maintained power with the help of his mother during the early years of his rule. Eventually, Sho Shin showed natural leadership, and his wisdom guided the Ryukyu Kingdom through 50 years of prosperity.

A document sent by the Ming Emperor Xiao Zong to the Ryukyuan Chuzan King Sho Shin.

Under Sho Shin’s rule, Shuri Castle and its surrounding area saw a boom in construction while Shuri Port bustled with economic activity as Ryukyuan ships continued to expand trade. The increase in overseas trade helped to stimulate the economy and kept the warlords happy. Later, Sho Shin persuaded the warlords to leave their castles and live near Shuri castle, enabling him to exercise power throughout the kingdom.

King Sho Shin, 1465-1526

Sho Shin’s reign ended upon his death in 1526. The years that followed saw rising tensions in Southeast Asia, and began keeping a watchful eye on European expansion into the Asian region. For centuries, Japan had viewed the Ryukyu Kingdom as an unimportant neighbor, but world events began to force some leaders in Edo to think differently.

King Sho Hashi and the Ryukyu Kingdom Era

2012-04-28T00:09:00.001-05:00

One of the things I learned while in Okinawa last year was the history of how a a man called Sho Hashi brought the three regions of Okinawa (Hokuzan to the North, Chuzan in the central area and Nanzan in the South) together by overtaking the lords who ruled the regions. Sho Hashi in fact brought the island together essentially beginning the Ryukyu Kingdom. Here is the story:

Ryukyu Kingdom Era (The First Sho Dynasty)

Early in the 15th century, a great warrior by the name of Hashi began to gain power within the Chuzan Kingdom. Together with his father, Shisho, they led a successful revolt against the unpopular King Bunei of Urasoe. Shisho declared himself as king and moved the seat of the Chuzan Kingdom from Urasoe to Shun. With the power of Chuzan increasing, Hashi made and impressive show of skill as a diplomat by gaining the allegiance of Lord Gosamaru — one of the island’s most powerful aji (a chieftain). He proceeded to win the favor of three aji in Hokuzan. Hashi’s political maneuvering provided him with enough strength to launch an attack on Nakijin Castle in the north and in 1416, a fierce battle ensued between the powerful Hokuzan army and the forces loyal to Hashi. Despite being protected by great natural barriers and a strong military, Nakijin Castle fell, and Hashi returned to Shuri a hero.

In 1422, Hashi’s father passed away. The Chinese Emperor officially recognized Hashi as the new Chuzan King and gave him the name “Sho.” This move by China signified that it saw Chuzan as the main seat of government within Okinawa.

Sho Hashi then began to make plans to sieze Nanzan (the southern kingdom). He knew that trouble within King Taromai's Nanzan administration had already begun to greatly undermine Taromai’s power. In 1429 he took advantage of Taromai’s weakened authority and quickly moved to attack the Nanzan forces at Ozato. The Nanzan army was no match against Sho Hashi's forces, and the southern kingdom fell. Okinawa was finally unified under one rule, and the name “Ryukyu Kingdom” was bestowed upon the islands by the Chinese Emperor.

During his reign Sho Hashi again proved his skills as a diplomat by greatly expanding trade and then using the increase in wealth to control the island’s other warlords. Under his guidance, the Ryukyu Kingdom began engaging in commerce with many other nations, such as Korea, the Kingdom of Siam, and Java. With the help of his trusted adviser, Kaiki, the new king implemented many new changes that quickly won him the adoration of his people. His greatest accomplishment, however, was keeping his potential enemies preoccupied with their newly found wealth, for it was the first time that Okinawans saw prolonged peace throughout the islands.

While Attending the 5th Worldwide Uchinanchu festival I was lucky enough to attend a theater performance by Junior High School and High School students which depicted the life and times of King Sho Hashi. Here is a playlist of video I took of the performance. These kids did a tremendously great job and their ability was very close to professional in my opinion. The video is 2 hours and 28 minutes long so give yourself plenty of time when you start watching. Don't forget to comment!

Turning 50 years old in Okinawa was really nothing at all considering.

2011-12-12T18:22:00.000-06:00

When visiting Okinawa this year I turned fifty years old and since returning I've thought about it and what it means to have existed for half a century. Some may look at it as if "half of my life is now over" and still others may look at it as if "I have finally reached a time in my life when I can enjoy the adventure of the next fifty years." I tend to aspire to the second train of thought. I hope that I can use the experience of the first half of my life to do a better job in the next fifty years.

Reaching the half way point of my existence in Okinawa was over shadowed (as it should have been) by the birthday celebration of my mother in law Yoshiko Ishiki (Kakazu, from the village of Yoza) who turned 88 years old while we were in Okinawa. She suffered a brain aneurism when she was in her 60's but fought her way back to nearly perfect health. Now at 88, she could still be considered a young un' by the many of the centenarians living in Okinawa today. However, the brain injury she suffered is now taking its toll by waging havoc with her short term memory. I found myself having the same conversation every five minutes with her. Even if it was cute at first, it can make you realize how it is important to do and think the things you like while you still have the physical ability and sound mind to do so.

Yoshiko after the War

During our stay we spoke to her on several occasions asking her about her past and things she could remember about her life. Funny thing about brain injuries, even if the short term is lost the long term memory can many times remain intact. This is the case with Yoshiko and she told me of the times she rode the train from Kochinda to Naha as a child to buy kimonos. She beamed when she told us about her brother who had been the local train station manager for the railroad as he had been the first in her family to move up from the ranks of being a farmer. She then told us of riding in a rickshaw to get to their final destination a store that sold girls clothing. It was a good time. Then she told us of the time she remembered during the battle of Okinawa. As she spoke she pulled her hair apart on the back of her head exposing a scar from some shrapnel that had injured her. She told me that it didn't hurt her anymore and she smiled as if it were no big deal. Yoshiko was in her early twenties at the time of the battle and was in charge of taking care of the children in the cave where they hid from the battle. Many of her family members lost their lives during the battle. These are rubbings of their names taken from the wall at the peace memorial park where the 200000 names of those who died in the battle are inscribed.

There was a lot of family lost during the battle.

I suppose my life has been easy when compared to the life of Yoshiko Kakazu. She was forced to take on a lot of responsibility at a very young age. Still had the will to go forth even after so many of her family had been taken. Raised a large family where they had to grow the food they needed to live on. She also worked the sugarcane fields with my father in law for many of the years of her life. She also gave me the greatest gift of my life when she produced the fifth of her six daughters.

Here is the video of Yoshiko's 88th Birthday celebration. Oh and that's me playing Happy Birthday on the Sanshin.

The First in a Series of Playlists about the 5th Worldwide Uchinanchu Festival

2011-11-23T09:17:00.000-06:00

This year I spent all of October in Okinawa. While I was there I attended the 5th worldwide Uchinanchu festival where I was treated like a VIP due to my Minkan Taishi status. This presented me with an opportunity to capture some wonderful videos of the event from some prime locations. Please watch the attached video and enter your thoughts on how Okinawans will go all out to welcome home people descended from the uchinanchu people.

Visit my YouTube channel for more videos about Okinawa and its people.

http://www.youtube.com/user/tcorrao

A Little Bit About Ancient Okinawans

2011-11-04T14:31:00.000-05:00

The oldest human remains discovered on Okinawa were those of a seven-year-old girl estimated to be approximately 32,000 years old. Her remains were found inside Yamashita Daiichi Cave in the Yamashita district of Naha in 1962.

Yamashita Daiichi Cave is a semi-cave ruin and because it was used as a grave it escaped destruction in postwar quarrying. The bones of an 8-year-old girl, subsequently called the Yamashita-dojin were excavated from here. It is one of the most significant finds within the whole of the East Asian region and in 1969 it was designated as a Cultural Property by Okinawa Prefecture.

Six years later, the remains of a male who lived more than 18,000 years ago were unearthed in the Minatogawa district of Gushikami. Not much is known about how these ancient Okinawans lived, but scientists are continuing lo discover more about Okinawa’s past through new excavation sites.

Ancient Okinawans lived in small coastal communities and survived mostly on small fish and shellfish. Archeologists called this the “Shellmound Era” because of the mounds of discarded shells and fish bones that were found during numerous excavations.

Okinawans who inhabited the island during the Shellmound Era, several thousand years ago, lived in caves near the coastline. As civilization advanced, building technology improved to simple dwellings made from wood, thatch, and earth. These early Okinawans survived on fish, shellfish, and small animals that they occasionally hunted. Tools crafted from bone and stone were used. This way of life lasted until approximately 1,500 years ago.

I've now returned from Okinawa

2011-10-29T13:00:00.000-05:00

Hello everyone. I just got back from Okinawa where we attended the 5th World Uchinanchu Festival. I was pleasantly surprised when I got there to find that my status as a new uchina goodwill ambassador gained me access to some pretty spectacular events and some special VIP seating. This allowed me to get some pretty fantastic video that I will be able to share with you over the coming months. All tolled I took over 2000 photographs and 200 Gb of video. I hope you will join me here and follow along as I retrace our Okinawan adventure.

Here are a few teaser photos of whats to come.

Watch for postings soon as soon as my jet lag wears off!

Goya Farmer

2011-09-05T17:04:00.000-05:00

Every year I get a little bit better at growing these bitter melons in my garden. They are extremely healthy and taste great is you prepare them correctly. The secret is to use a spoon to scrape as much of the white fibrous material from the center before using it in you recipes. The plant is called by different names depending on what country your in but we like to call it Goya the Japanese name for bitter melon.

Recently my friend Tom Pressley posted that he has been learning to make Champuru and posted a picture of his most recent dish. It looked more like Okazu to me as it was mostly bean sprouts and tofu. Okinawan champuru contains Goya so Tom's must be a variation of the real stuff. Here is a picture of what real champuru should look like.

This year my crop was delayed because the first batch of seeds we planted didn't sprout for some reason. We have been pulling the seeds for the next years crops right from the fruit we are using. Maybe we picked some that weren't mature enough who knows? We did have more though but the bad seeds put us about three weeks behind. The plants did do well and the weather cooperated pretty much so we have been eating Goya.

Goya Lemon & Apple Juice Cocktail

Goya Pinwheels

To make them fill goya rings with Ground chuck that has portabello mushrooms minced into it.

Bread them by dipping in egg and coating with panko

Deep fry them up in a wok

When browned well remove them from the pan and let the excess oil drain into a paper towel

When they are dry cut them in half and serve.

Even the kids will eat these because they're fried

Here is a video that I threw together showing the growth this season.

Visitors from Salt Lake City

2011-08-21T09:10:00.000-05:00

This weekend we had visitors from Salt Lake City. Uchinanchu Friend Keiko Mitchell and her husband Steve stopped by to say hello on their way to see their son in Rockford Illinois. Keiko recently passed her first level Sanshin test and played for us at the house. She has a wonderful voice and played very well from memory. We had dinner together and visited the Okinawa Stone down by the shores of Lake Michigan. They weren't able to stay long but it sure was nice to see them again.

One thing I like about having uchinanchu friends is once you have an Okinawan friend you have them for life.

August is the Month of Obon in Okinawa Japan

2011-08-20T12:02:00.000-05:00

Obon (お盆) or just Bon (盆) is a Japanese Buddhist custom to honor the departed (deceased) spirits of one's ancestors. This Buddhist custom has evolved into a family reunion holiday during which people return to ancestral family places and visit and clean their ancestors' graves, and when the spirits of ancestors are supposed to revisit the household altars. It has been celebrated in Japan for more than 500 years and traditionally includes a dance, known as Bon-Odori.

The festival of Obon lasts for three days; however its starting date varies within different regions of Japan. When the lunar calendar was changed to the Gregorian calendar at the beginning of the Meiji era, the localities in Japan reacted differently and this resulted in three different times of Obon. "Shichigatsu Bon" (Bon in July) is based on the solar calendar and is celebrated around 15 July in eastern Japan (Kantō: areas such as Tokyo, Yokohama and the Tohoku region), coinciding with Chūgen. "Hachigatsu Bon" (Bon in August) is based on the solar calendar, is celebrated around the 15th of August and is the most commonly celebrated time. "Kyu Bon" (Old Bon) is celebrated on the 15th day of the seventh month of the lunar calendar, and so differs each year. "Kyu Bon" is celebrated in areas like the northern part of the Kantō region, Chūgoku, Shikoku, and the Southwestern islands. These three days are not listed as public holidays but it is customary that people are given leave.

Bon Odori (盆踊り), meaning simply Bon dance is a style of dancing performed during Obon. Originally a Nenbutsu folk dance to welcome the spirits of the dead, the style of celebration varies in many aspects from region to region. Each region has a local dance, as well as different music. The music can be songs specifically pertinent to the spiritual message of Obon, or local min'yo folk songs. Consequently, the Bon dance will look and sound different from region to region. Hokkaidō is known for a folk-song known as "Soran Bushi." The song "Tokyo Ondo" takes its namesake from the capital of Japan. "Gujo Odori" in Gujō, Gifu prefecture is famous for all night dancing. "Goshu Ondo" is a folk song from Shiga prefecture. Residents of the Kansai area will recognize the famous "Kawachi ondo." Tokushima in Shikoku is very famous for its "Awa Odori," or "fool's dance," and in the far south, one can hear the "Ohara Bushi" of Kagoshima.

The way in which the dance is performed is also different in each region, though the typical Bon dance involves people lining up in a circle around a high wooden scaffold made especially for the festival called a 'yagura'. The yagura is usually also the bandstand for the musicians and singers of the Obon music. Some dances proceed clockwise, and some dances proceed counter-clockwise around the yagura. Some dances reverse during the dance, though most do not. At times, people face the yagura and move towards and away from it. Still some dances, such as the Kagoshima Ohara dance, and the Tokushima Awa Odori, simply proceed in a straight line through the streets of the town.

The dance of a region can depict the area's history and specialization. For example, the movements of the dance of the Tankō Bushi (the "coal mining song") of old Miike Mine in Kyūshū show the movements of miners, i.e. digging, cart pushing, lantern hanging, etc. All dancers perform the same dance sequence in unison.

There are other ways in which a regional Bon dance can vary. Some dances involve the use of different kinds of fans, others involve the use of small towels called tenugui which may have colorful designs. Some require the use of small wooden clappers, or "kachi-kachi" during the dance. The "Hanagasa Odori" of Yamagata is performed with a straw hat that has been decorated with flowers.

The music that is played during the Bon dance is not limited to Obon music and min'yo; some modern enka hits and kids' tunes written to the beat of the "ondo" are also used to dance to during Obon season. The "Pokémon Ondo" was used as one of the ending theme songs for the anime series in Japan.

The Bon dance tradition is said to have started in the later years of the Muromachi period as a public entertainment. In the course of time, the original religious meaning has faded, and the dance has become associated with summer.

To celebrate O-Bon in Okinawa, the eisa drum dance is performed instead.

This video shows a compilation of dancers that danced at this years Bon dance at Mitsuwa Marketplace in Arlington Heights. Mitsuwa has become the annual spot for the bon odori in the chicagoland area. I changed the music but it fits rather nicely to the dance and the occassion.

What Exactly is the Uchinanchu Taikai?

2011-08-15T14:04:00.000-05:00

Nearly 100 years ago, many Okinawans left their beloved island, lured by dreams of making their fortunes. Many islanders made their way to places such as Hawaii (where they worked on sugar plantations), Peru, Brazil, and other countries throughout the world. While many of these Okinawans dreams were larger than life, unfortunately life in a foreign country was worse than what they had foreseen. Housing conditions were poor and labor was unbelievably tough. Language barriers and new customs also gave many Okinawans problems as well.

Many people may wonder why so many Okinawans would leave such a beautiful place and move to a foreign country. Several factors contributed to this mass exodus. After Okinawa was assimilated by Japan, the new government imposed a new tax system and instigated a military draft. These policies made many islanders lives extremely difficult. The island also suffered from limited natural resources. Since space was at such a premium, few could afford decently sized farm plots, and typhoons destroyed crops on a regular basis.

Today, emigrants from Okinawa throughout the world regularly reconnect with islanders from the same village, town, or city. Many organized groups exist, promoting friendship and exchanging information. Recently, many groups have consolidated into larger networks called Kenjin-kai. There are sixty-six Kenjin-kai located throughout the world, and periodically these networks hold a Worldwide Uchinanchu (Okinawan) Festival in Okinawa sponsored by the Prefectural government, bringing representatives from different Kenjin-kai together.

The first was held in 1990 and then more were held in 1995, 2001, and 2006. This year, the 5th World Uchinanchu Festival will be held at the Okinawa Cellular Stadium in Naha. The events will take place between October 12th and the 16th once again bringing Okinawans back to their beloved ancestral homeland.

Let the Churashima spirit echo into the future!

The 5th Joint Performance Recital with The Kariyushi-kai

2011-08-13T07:11:00.001-05:00

If you're going to be in Okinawa the weekend before the 5th world Uchinanchu Festival maybe you'll be interested in attending a cultural arts performance between the Chicago Okinawa Kenjinkai and the Kariyushi-kai of Okinawa.

On October 9th 2011 there will be a joint performance recital featuring the Music & Dance of Okinawa Japan. Performed by members of the Kariyushi-kai and the Chicago Okinawa Kenjinkai the performance will be the fifth time these two groups have met to perform together.

It will be held at the Kimutaka Hall which is located at 3071 Katsuren-Henna, in Uruma City. This is an exciting event for those who enjoy the pleasures of the Okinawa culture.

EVENT: 5th Reunion Recital of the Chicago Okinawa Kenjinkai and the Okinawa Kariyushi-Kai

When: Sunday, October 9th 2011

View Larger Map

Where: Kimutaka Hall (3071 Katsuren-Henna, Uruma City)

Time: 3pm

You MUST RSVP for tickets to this event. If you have questions and request for more detail information please contact to Mayumi Seino / mseino@hotmail.com .

A 2011 Chicago Okinawa Kenjinkai Event

Okinawa's Annual Shisa-mai Festival

2011-08-11T11:10:00.000-05:00

Once upon a time, a Ryukyuan emissary returned from China after his voyage to the court at Shuri Castle, where he brought with him a gift for the king. It was a necklace decorated with a small figurine of a shisa-dog. The king found it charming and wore it underneath his clothing.

Now it happened that the Naha Port bay, by the village of Madanbashi was often terrorized by a sea dragon who ate the villagers and destroyed their property. One day, the King was visiting the village when one of these attacks happened. The people scattered running to hide from the horrible sea dragon. The local noro had been told in a dream that he should instruct the king when he visited to stand on the beach and lift his figurine towards the dragon. She sent a young boy named Chiga to tell him the message which had come to her in a dream. The King upon hearing the message went to the seaside where he faced the sea monster with the figurine held high.

Shisa near Gana-mui Woods & the Naha Ohashi Bridge

Almost immediately a giant roar could be heard all throughout the village. A roar so deep and powerful that it even shook the sea dragon. Then a massive boulder then fell from heavens and crushing the sea dragon's tail. He couldn't move, and eventually died. This boulder and the dragon's body became covered with plants and surrounded by trees, and can still be seen by the port today. It is the "Gana-mui Woods" near Naha Ohashi bridge. The towns people built a large stone shisa to protect it from the dragon's spirit and other threats.

The people of Okinawa call lion-dogs, shisa or shishi. pronounced "She-she" Shishi is a Chinese word meaning lion-dog. A shisa is a lion-dog originally from China that wards off evil spirits and was initially placed at the entrances of castles, temples, imperial mausoleums and communities. In Okinawa they can be seen on many houses as well. Many times there are two Shisa present one with mouth closed to warn potential evil to stay away from the property and one with the mouth open almost in a smile to welcome good spirts.

Photo courtesy of Lloyd Wanscott photographer for Okinawa Living Magazine

The Shishimai, or Shisa dance, is a lively dance performed by a two costumed performers. In the dance, the fierce guardian is transformed into a fun loving spirit as it leaps and runs, wagging its furry tail and snapping its great wooden jaws at the audience to bring the people in attendance good luck. Children and adults alike laugh and try to pet the Shisa as it bounds by and catches a ball thrown by a Chondara clown.

The Shisa brings a warm feeling of timeless joy and by means of its ancient protection. It has become a rich part of Ryukyuan history and culture as well as reflecting the traditional beliefs of the typical family in Okinawa.

Every year in Okinawa they hold an annual shisa-mai festival. I believe this years festival will be held on September 25th at the Agena Bullring in Uruma City. Several different groups will be competing for the honor of best Shisa-mai group 2011.

If your going to Okinawa early for the 5th World Uchinanchu Festival this may be something you should check out. I'm positive you won't be disappointed. Maybe I'll see you there!

Chicago's Annual Bon Odori

2011-08-08T09:40:00.001-05:00

It's been a few days since I last wrote on the blog because I broke my tooth off and have been in pain for most of the week. The dentist was able to help me out before Saturday’s event at Mitsuwa Marketplace in Arlington Heights, IL. The event is an annual one with everyone showing up to celebrate Obon. The Japanese holiday that celebrates the ancestors returning back to the earth for a yearly visit, It involves many Japanese and Okinawans from around the Chicago area as well as everyone else who likes culture. It is a time to meet with old friends and meet new ones as well.

Saturday I met a Japanese fellow named Kohei Yoshida who was visiting Chicago on a research project involving the assimilation of local uchinanchu people into other cultures. He was looking for volunteers to interview for the project and somehow he ended up talking to me. Mr. Yoshida is a research fellow of the Japan Society for the promotion of science (Social Science) with the Tokyo Metropolitan University. If you would like to contact him he said he would love to interview anyone with possible information on his research subject. Please feel free to email him at Kohei_y_jiminer@yahoo.co.jp Yoshida san was going to Brazil and Peru after his Chicago visit but promised to stop back and see us next summer.

The Bon dance is a tradition where a group of people from a village gather to dance in celebration around a podium of lanterns usually set up in the village's gathering place. In Chicago we still celebrate the tradition by visiting our gathering place, Mitsuwa Market, where everyone constantly visits and picks up the essentials of Japanese cookery.

The Chicago Okinawa Kenjinkai has become a regular part of the celebration demonstrating its version of Matsuri Daiko a form of choreographed eisa movements to a more modern style of eisa music from Okinawa. I was there to capture all of the action to share with you here today. So here is a sample of what I took. More video can be viewed on my Youtube page at http://www.youtube.com/user/tcorrao ... Enjoy!

The 2011 CHICAGO OKINAWA KENJINKAI PICNIC

2011-07-31T19:44:00.000-05:00

Well yesterday was our annual Chicago Okinawa Kenjinkai Picnic. After a week filled with rain the day finally came and there wasn't a rain cloud to be seen in the sky. The weather was hot with temperatures nearing the 90 degree mark. What a perfect Okinawa type day for our picnic. I estimate there was about 120 people present at the Robinson Woods picnic groves. The food was great as always and there was plenty of activities to fill the day. Our new Kenjinkai president Paula Schmidling did a wonderful job organizing the event and all of the officers were involved in some aspect of the preparation. Here are a few videos to let you know what you missed out on if you weren't there. Maybe we will see you next year at the picnic. Ashibi nu chura saa ninju nu sunawai! It means the more the merrier!

Renting a Car in Okinawa For the 5th World Uchinanchu Festival?

2011-07-30T08:41:00.000-05:00

Hello everyone! Today is the annual Chicago Okinawa Kenjinkai picnic so I will have to make this as quick as possible, there's plenty to do do do! Ya know!

Probably the easiest was to get around while visiting Okinawa for the 5th world uchinanchu festival is by rental car. It's definitely not going to be your cheapest mode of transportation but it will provide you with a tremendous mount of flexibility. My wife and I rented a car during the last Taikai and it was a wonderful experience. We were able to go wherever we pleased and were able to assist others we knew also when changing venues or events. One thing to remember is that gas is extremely expensive in Japan and has to be factored in to the cost as well as the price of the actual rental. If your retired military however gas on base is usually much more reasonable than off base.

This is an example prices may vary!

Okay then here's how to rent a car in Okinawa

Most of the car rental companies in Okinawa are located at the Naha Airport or in very close proximity to it. They send shuttles buses to pick up customers and bring them to their shop locations near the airport. Just follow the rental car signs in the airport there in both English and Japanese if my memory serves me correctly. There's also a number of car rental companies near Omoromachi Station in the Shinto shin shopping area by the Duty Free Shop.

The procedure for renting the car is quite simple. First just go up to the counter and choose the class of car you wish to rent and let them know for how many days. The cars are different than the ones you know in the states so ask questions about the models to find the one best suited for your needs. The rental company will ask you to show your international license or Japanese license and another form of ID such as a passport or alien registration card. International drivers licenses are easy to obtain through AAA and you don't have to be a AAA card holder to get one. I will provide a link to the application that you can fill out to take with you to your local AAA agent. Once they are satisfied you are who you say you are you will be asked to sign a rental contract and the staff will take you to your car for a brief inspection.

International Drivers Licence Application

Some car rental companies in Okinawa include The Loss Damage Waiver (LDW) in the price and others add it as an additional fee. Generally it costs around 1,600 JPY per rental and must be paid up front. The LDW is mandatory by car rental companies, please remember it is not insurance. Its purpose is to free renters of financial responsibility if the car is damaged or stolen while under rental contract. Using the vehicle in violation of any of the user restrictions listed on the rental agreement could void LDW and leave the renter fully responsible for any damage to the vehicle. You should check with your car insurance company in the United States to see if you will be covered in Okinawa under your current insurance. If not then you would want to purchase the offered insurance through the rental company.

Driving in Okinawa is not like driving in the USA, The side streets as well as some of the main roads on the island are incredibly narrow and can be tricky to navigate at times. Also they drive on the left and you must be constantly vigilant . It is not uncommon for a new driver on Okinawa to have a flash back and turn into oncoming traffic. But if you remain alert and think about it you should be able to handle driving on the left.

Japanese law requires small children traveling in a vehicle to be safely fastened into a child seat. Most car rental agencies on Okinawa can provide child safety seats for any children traveling with you so it is not necessary to bring them with you. Be aware though the they will charge a small additional fee for the use of the car seat..

Most rental cars in Okinawa and elsewhere in Japan come with GPS / Navigation systems, however in Okinawa most are only equipped to operate in Japanese. If you own one in the states you may be able to download the maps for Okinawa and Japan for your trip. I used the Japanese one even though my Japanese is not that fluent. My wife entered the information and I followed the directions on the screen which weren't that difficult to understand visually.

In Japan you must be 18 years old or older to rent a car according to Japanese law. You will also need your credit card just like you do when renting a car in the USA. Be aware that your credit card will probably charge you a foreign exchange fee for purchases overseas and the charge will be made at the rate for the conversion rate for the day the charge is actually processed. This date as well as the exchange rate may be different than it was on the day you actually rented the car. Just something to keep in mind.

My recommendation would be to rent the smallest car that can possibly serve your needs. My wife and I rented a subcompact and it could easily hold 5 people. Of course we didn't have the trunk storage space of a bigger car but we had relatives that came to the airport to meet us that helped get our bags to where we stayed.

Before you start driving in Okinawa, on the left hand side of the road, take a few moments to familiarize yourself with the vehicle's equipment and operation, including heat and A/C, radio, lights, windshield wipers, spare tire, seat belts and door locks, and gas tank access. You may be surprised to find out they are on the opposite side many times from what you are use to. Oh yeah and the drivers side is on the right in a Japanese car. This may feel a little weird at first but you will quickly get use to it. I think it helps me remember to stay on the left because I think in my head "Hey the driver is towards the center of the road." if I find myself riding towards the outside of the road then I'm on the wrong side.

Getting distracted trying to figure out the controls while driving can be dangerous. Don't wait until the fuel warning light goes on to think about buying gas, especially if you don't know how far it is between gas stations. If, in the unlikely event that your car malfunctions on a major thoroughfare, turn on the hazard lights and, if you have a cell phone, call the police (110) and the rental company.

If you're involved in an accident contact the police to complete an accident report, then immediately contact the location from which the car was rented. You can find location phone information on your reservation confirmation paperwork.

The last thing I have to say is that parking in a pay lot in Okinawa is extremely expensive so try to park at public venues if possible. You may want to check with your hotel to find out about available parking and if they charge a fee to park at their facility.

Well that's about what I know about renting a car in Okinawa. Be careful and we'll see you in Okinawa.

Using the Bus while in Okinawa for the Uchinanchu Taikai

2011-07-28T21:33:00.002-05:00

Probably the most convenient form of transportation for getting to all points on the island of Okinawa is the bus. Buses are surprisingly expensive on Okinawa but do run many of the main roads on the island on their routes. Fares depend on the distance you have traveled at the time you get off the bus. Fares start around ¥150 but vary according to the bus company.

When getting on the bus take a ticket from the ticket dispenser as you board. If the bus has two doors make sure you enter and exit from the front door.

While riding, there is an electronic voice that calls out the stops (in Japanese). When your stop is called press the button next to the window to signal the driver to stop. It's a good idea to know what your destination looks or a remember a landmark that can be seen several stops away. This can help ensure that you exit the bus as close to your desired destination as possible.

There is an electronic display at the front of the bus that has numbers and a corresponding fare that increases as the bus makes its way along its route. When leaving, match the number on your ticket to the number on the display. The fare next to that number is what you pay.

Drop your ticket and exact fare, yen only, in the fare box. There is a change dispenser at the front of the bus that gives change for 1,000 yen bills, 500 yen coins, and 100 yen coins.

Bus fare from Naha Bus Terminal to Nago is about ¥1740 (About $22.32 at todays rate) for the 70km ride. Children under six who are accompanied by a parent ride for free and children in the sixth grade or lower pay half fare.

Nearly all buses use the Naha Bus Terminal as a starting and ending point for their routes. Unfortunately, there are no bus schedules printed in English to show you and the buses do not always stick to their allocated times, so please allow plenty of time for your travels. The different bus companies servicing Okinawa can run the same route. Please look for the bus number in the window of the bus to determine its destination, not the color of the bus.

Here is a list by bus numbers indicating the buses departure city and destination as well as the bus company running the line. The first hurdle you will need to overcome is determining which bus to take. Just because there are no schedules or routes available in English, doesn't mean it will be impossible to figure out where you're going. At every bus stop there is a map of Okinawa with routes included and a list of the buses that service the stop your at and their schedules. Find a bus that goes to your destination and its next arrival time. Route numbers 1 through 17 are categorized as the City (Naha) Line and numbers 20 and greater are the Suburban Line.

Four different bus companies operate routes in Okinawa. Because more than one bus company operates each route, it is best to signal the bus you want, otherwise it may not stop to pick you up.

Naha Airport Limousine Bus

On the Okinawa Main Island (Okinawa Honto) there is an extensive network of Airport Limousine Buses that operate all year long. This service is one of the best ways to get to almost all of the resort hotels on Okinawa at a fraction of the cost of taking a taxi. The pickup point at Naha Airport for the Airport Limousine Buses is located outside the Arrivals lobby on the 1st floor of the main terminal building.

During the high season of late July to the end of August more buses operate and on a more frequent schedule but there are also many more visitors using the Airport Limousine Bus service.

When leaving Naha Airport the Airport Limousine Buses use the first come first serve system and cannot be booked in advance. Make sure the bus you get on goes to your hotel by asking the driver.

When departing hotels and on the way to Naha Airport it is important to check your flight time and the travel time of the bus before leaving. Please remember that travel time of the Airport Limousine Buses may be longer than shown on the schedules due to traffic. Ask hotel staff where the pick-up point for the bus is and double check the schedule with them.

TOUR BUS INFO

There are also tour bus companies on the island that offer package tours which range from 6 to 10 hours. Prices are about $40 to $50 but may not include entrance fees to all venues.

Ryukyu Bus 098-863-3636

Okinawa Bus 098-861-0083

Naha Bus 098-868-3750

Taxi use in Okinawa - Expensive but Convenient in a Pinch

2011-07-27T21:11:00.001-05:00

Now that we’ve talked about using the monorail system let’s talk about getting to other areas of the island both in Naha and everywhere else. Probably the thing that struck me the most in regards to transportation while I was in Okinawa was the sheer number of taxi’s there are on the island. One of the primary industries on the island is tourism and being a service oriented economy there’s plenty of need for them.

Note the round red sign in the front window indicating the cab is vacant

Taxi cabs are easy to find just about anywhere on Okinawa. No matter where you are if you make your way to the main thoroughfare in the area, wave your hand in the air when you see a taxi approach. Look in the front window of the taxi on the passenger’s side and you will see a light up sign with some Japanese Kanji on it. If the taxi is empty the sign will be lit up in red. If the sign is green it means the taxi already has a passenger and is unavailable. When a taxi does pull over to pick you up it’s important to know that when entering or exiting a taxi cab anywhere in Japan, the rear left passenger door is automatic and controlled by the driver. The other important thing to know is recently all Okinawan Taxi’s became non-smoking.

The Left rear door is controlled by the driver. It opens and closes automatically.

Some taxi cab companies have set rates to resort hotels from Naha Airport and other main destinations. Pre-booking for these prices is necessary and can be done through most travel agents in Japan or by calling the taxi cab company if you or someone you know speaks Japanese. Many taxi cab companies on Okinawa also have sightseeing tour packages. This involves renting the services of the taxi on an hourly basis and being driven around to the sights of the island. The standard rate for this service is around 3,000 per hour; however for larger blocks of time it is common to negotiate the price. There are a few companies that operate with English speaking taxi cab drivers in Okinawa.

If you’re going to choose to use a taxi be aware that it isn’t going to be cheap. The basic fare for just getting in the door of a small sized taxi cab is 500 yen for the first 1.8km (1.1 miles). Then the meter will increase at 60 yen for each additional 359 meters (quarter mile). It adds up quickly and it is common to spend as much as $20 on the average cab ride. There are advantages to using a taxi sometimes though because they will take you to exactly where you need to go and not just to the general vicinity.

If you’ll be traveling with other people it may not be such an impact on your wallet when using a taxi in Okinawa. The truth of the matter is you can afford a taxi ride if you are willing to plan ahead and carpool with a few of your friends. A taxi ride can be an affordable, relaxing convenience if shared between yourself and a few friends. There is no need to miss many of the events being held on island and, more importantly, there’s no need to drink and drive. Don't let your transportation woes force you to miss some of the best that Okinawa has to offer.

I suppose a few of you out there may be planning to partake in some Awamori or Orion beer after attending some of the events. If you arrived at your drinking establishment by car and suddenly realize that Awamori is a bit stronger spirit than you expected then there is an important service that I should make you aware of. It’s called Daiko, and it’s a safe way to get you and your car home when you’re too tired to drive or have had a few too many alcoholic beverages.

How it works is when a customer calls to request the service, two drivers and a taxi will be dispatched to the location requested. One driver will provide the customer with a ride and the other driver will drive the customer’s car to the final destination. If an individual uses a Daiko service they will be required to ride in the taxi, verses their own car due to insurance reasons. Here is a video that covers what Daiko service is all about.

In Okinawa there are a few taxi companies you can call that speak English. These companies will come to you if you give them a ring. Taxi Company Okito has been at work training its drivers in English conversation to raise their level of service for English-speaking customers. This eliminates much of the difficulty of trying to explain your destination to drivers who cannot speak English.

Note the Authorized on Base sign on this Taxi

Also, if you are commuting to or from a military base, please make sure that your cab has a written sign on the side that reads "Authorized on Base." The following taxi companies provide pick-up services on Okinawa and have taxis that are authorized to go on military bases.

Okito Taxi (0120) 21-5005 English Available (Toll Free)

(098) 946-5005 English Available

Meiho Taxi (098) 937-2467 English Available

Sanyo Taxi (098) 936-7027 English Not Available

Futaba Taxi (098) 898-2028 English Not Available

Toho Taxi (098) 936-6393 English Not Available

Okinawa Monorail Yui Rail ゆいレール

2011-07-26T22:22:00.001-05:00

Going early to Okinawa so you can attend the Otsunahiki? Are you going to have free time between otsunahiki and the uchinanchu festival? If you’re going to be in Okinawa you’ll need to know how to get around and know what to do during the down time between festivals. Transportation is expensive in Okinawa and you’ll need to have a plan if you’re going to maximize both your budget and your time. I’ve decided to help you out a bit here on the blog by explaining your options.

I lived on Okinawa for nearly ten years during the eighties and nineties but things were a lot different back then. For one thing the yen rate was between 150 to 200 yen to the dollar at that time not the 78 yen per dollar you’re going to get during the festival this year. By knowing your options you may be able to save yourself a little money.

There are several forms of transportation on the island and I will cover them in the next few days. Your choices will include rental cars, buses, taxies, and a monorail system that runs between the Airport and Shuri right through the heart of Naha city. Today I’ll talk specifically about using the Monorail.

Okinawa Monorail Yui Rail ゆいレール

I like historical things so let’s begin with a bit of history about electric rail in Okinawa. The first electric railway was established in 1911 by Saiga Tokichi the operator of Saiga Electric Company of Kyoto. He created the Okinawa Electric Railway which linked Naha to Shuri with a trolley line. The trolley line did well until the introduction of buses on the island. It lasted until 1933 when the line ceased its operations due to the loss of passengers brought about by the competition with buses. In Okinawa it’s really hard to find old photographs but thanks to military photographers on island after the battle for Okinawa I was able to find a picture of a trolley car on Okinawa that had been there prior to the war. I believe therefore that this must have been one of the Okinawa Electric Railway Trolley cars.

Okinawa Electric Trolley Car (1945)

The Okinawa Toshi Monorēru a Monorail called the Yui Rail (ゆいレール)

The Yui Rail Travels Above the Street Level

Today’s monorail system is about as far from the original trolley design as one can imagine. Construction on the line began in 1996 and the when finished in 2003 the new Okinawa Monorail system gave the Okinawan people and tourists alike an alternative to the bus once again. This state of the art monorail was designed to overcome the severe congestion in the capitol city of Naha. The line runs for 13 kilometers from the Naha airport through Naha city all the way to Shuri. It really is the perfect form of transportation for those staying in Naha.

Conductors are Available to Assist You

When the wife and I visited for the 4th Uchinanchu Festival in 2006 we rode the monorail and it was a very affordable alternative to using a taxi. To ride the monorail you will need to purchase a ticket up on the platform. The cost of the fare is relative to the distance from starting station to destination station. Distances are rounded up to the nearest 1km. Children’s fares are half of adult's fares and are rounded up to nearest 10yen. The rates I found online are between 200 and 300 yen or about $3.85 to ride the entire distance. Not bad for a 13 Km ride.

Purchase Your Ticket on the Platform

Put your Ticket in the end of the Turnstyle

Your Ticket Will Pop Out the Other End

Your now Ready to ride the Monorail.

Have Fun and enjoy the Festival!

Here are the stops along the line.
There are 15 stations on the line.

Station name       Japanese        Total distance Location

Naha-kūkō        那覇空港       0 km Naha, Okinawa
Akamine            赤嶺               1.95 km
Oroku               小禄                2.71 km
Ōnoyama-kōen 奥武山公園    3.68 km      This is the stop where the festival will be held
Tsubogawa        壺川               4.52 km
Asahibashi         旭橋               5.33 km
Kenchō-mae     県庁前           5.91 km
Miebashi           美栄橋           6.63 km
Makishi             牧志              7.61 km
Asato                安里               8.2 km
Omoromachi     おもろまち 8.95 km
Furujima            古島               9.96 km
Shiritsu-byōin-mae 市立病院前 10.88 km
Gibo                  儀保       11.84 km
Shuri                 首里               12.84 km

Other Okinawa monorail Yui Rail ゆいレール Information
The monorail is a business venture between the prefecture and a private enterprise.

How to ride the Yui Rail

The following describes how to buy and use a regular ticket (Futsu Joshaken) on the Yui Rail, monorail in Naha City Okinawa.

Once you arrive at a monorail station, the first thing you'll need to do is buy a ticket. Find your destination on the fare table located above the ticket vending machines, this will be listed in Japanese characters (kanji) and Romanized (English) letters, it will also show the cost to that station. Put the fare (coins, bills, or card) into the ticket vending machine. Then comes the challenge, match the English station name with Japanese character (kanji) on the ticket machine. Press the button for your destination and the machine will dispense your ticket. If you need a ticket for a child make sure to press the children button before you press the destination button as children fares are less expensive. If you have any problems with this process each monorail station in Naha has staff that can help.

After you have your ticket you can proceed through the station’s gates by placing your ticket in the slot on the right side of the gate. Be sure to grab it as it comes out on the other side as you will need it to get out at your destination.

Next, head toward the platform, following the sign for the train heading the direction you need to go. You can either go North toward Shuri or South toward Naha-Kuko.

Lastly, when you arrive at your destination station exit by inserting your ticket as you go through the opposite way as you did when entering. Regular ticket will disappear in to the slot but if you purchased an all-day pass, do not forget to pick it up on the other side. If you travel further then the ticket purchased, the gate will close and station staff will come to collect the remaining fare or you can pay the difference at the fare-adjustment window.

Operating times
- The first train starts each day at 06:00 and the last train departs at 23:30
- During rush hours 08:00 – 09:00 trains arrive at stations at 6.5 minute intervals
- The rest of the day trains arrive at station at 7.5 – 15 minute intervals

FARES

Regular Ticket (Futsu Joshaken)

The cost of fares is relative to the distance from starting station to destination station. Distances are rounded up to the nearest 1km. Children’s fares are half of adult's fares and are rounded up to nearest 10yen.

Pre-paid card (Yui card)

Pre-paid cards are a convenient way to use the monorail as you don’t have to think of the cost to each destination or take the time to use the ticket vending machines every time you go somewhere. Cards are available in 1000 yen, 3000 yen, and 5000 yen increments.

To buy a Yui Card simply put coins or bills in to a ticket vending machine and press the button showing "Card" and then the fare button. To use the card simply put it in the ticket slot when entering a gate the same way you would a ticket. Don’t forget to grab it on the other side when both entering and exiting a monorail station.

Multi-ride Ticket (Kaisuu Joshaken)
Multi-ride tickets are another way to save a bit of money on monorail fare. These passes are good for 6 month after the date of purchase.

To buy a multi-ride ticket put coins or bills (Yui cards can’t be used) into the ticket vending machine and press the "Kaisuuken" button and then the station button. Muli-ride Tickets are good for 10 rides.

Open ticket
If you are traveling around Naha for the day and plan on using the Yui Rail to see the sights, an open ticket might be your best option. These tickets allow for unlimited use of the monorail for one, two, or three days for a set price.

To purchase these tickets simply press the button on a ticket vending machine labeled "One day open ticket" and then the "1 day" “2 days” or “3 days” button.

If you have problems purchasing an open ticket and need to ask the station staff for help here are the Japanese names for them:

One day open ticket: "Ichinichi Joshaken"
Two days open ticket: "Futsuka Joshaken"
Three days open ticket: "Mikka Joshaken"

God Luck and Have Fun!