Old Dogs, New Tricks

LATEST TRICKS: Westward Ho!

2011-01-02T03:35:00.000-05:00

South Dakota and Wyoming
Saturday, September 25, 2010

After another scenic and delicious breakfast, we packed up Rover (our rented minivan) and bid farewell to the Holiday Inn Express in Custer. It was a great home base for the past three days. Entep, the cheerful staff member who was there to welcome us when we first arrived, was also there to wish us safe travels when we departed. Thanks to Entep and all of the Holiday Inn Express staff for making our stay a memorable one.

On the road again, we headed out of Custer via the breathtaking, winding Needles Highway. Driving in the brilliant morning light, the perspectives and colors were completely different and as equally spectacular as yesterday’s drive. We stopped many times along the route to take pictures of the scenes surrounding us.

Winding through the stunning rock formations and breathtaking vistas, we came to beautiful Sylvan Lake. The contrast between the rocks and the water was dramatic.

Descending the mountain brought a change from the towering pillars of rock to the vibrant colors of the Black Hills National Forest.

As we swung down into the valley, the deep blue waters of the Pactola Lake reservoir glistened like a gorgeous sapphire. It was surreal to realize that below those pristine waters lay the submerged town of Pactola, a mining camp and military outpost first settled in 1875.

We trekked north through the Black Hills to Deadwood--site of Wild Bill Hickok's murder. Today, Deadwood looks a lot different than it must have in Wild Bill’s day; it’s more of a modern day “wild west” town filled with hotels, saloons, and casinos.

Wild Bill's Bar marks the location where Hickok was gunned down during a lethal poker game. According to legend, he was holding two pair--aces and eights--now commonly referred to as the Dead Man's Hand.

Moving on from Deadwood, we passed the Homestake Mining Company, one of the largest gold mining businesses in United States from the gold rush of 1876 until 2002.

Nature greeted us with even more splendor as we drove through Spearfish Canyon to the town of Spearfish. The brilliant yellow of the autumn aspens made a striking contrast against the towering stone walls and pines of the canyon. It was truly magical.

On the recommendation of a gentleman that Bruce and Kim had met in Custer, we stopped by the Crow Peak Brewing Company on our way out of Spearfish for a sampling of their craft brews and a little snack. Bruce liked their Spearbeer Pale Ale and 11th Hour Golden IPA while Ted’s favorites were the Pile-o-Dirt Porter and IPOD Black IPA. All four of us gave high marks to the pickled buffalo sausage.

As we crossed the border into Northeast Wyoming, the terrain flattened out into broad plains speckled with buttes and gulches.

Then the terrain changed once again as we began to climb.

As the land dropped away into a picturesque canyon on our right, Devil's Tower National Monument appeared boldly in the distance.

No matter how many times we’ve seen Devil’s Tower in photos or watched Richard Dreyfuss make a mashed potato model of it in Steven Spielberg’s movie, Close Encounters of the Third Kind, nothing gave us a sense of the enormity of this monolith or the spectacular setting surrounding it.

It is no wonder that Devil's Tower, like the Black Hills of South Dakota, is sacred to American Indians. It is a place of deep stillness and awesome majesty. Human beings are tiny creatures in the presence of this towering monolith. It was a humbling experience. Gazing upon the tower at dusk, we noticed a few tiny pin-pricks of light about half-way up one side. Each light was an intrepid climber...attempting to reach the top of this colossus.

From Devil's Tower we drove west to Gillette, Wyoming, an area rich in coal resources that calls itself the "Energy Capital of the Nation." Needing some energy ourselves, we stopped for dinner at Las Margaritas Mexican Restaurant. We admired the brilliantly-colored wall murals as we enjoyed delicious Mexican cuisine.

Our energy replenished, we continued west to Buffalo, Wyoming and our final destination: the Historic Occidental Hotel. Walking through the front doors of the Occidental was like stepping into a time machine. The 21st century melted away at the threshold and the Old West of legend and lore welcomed us in.
-- Ted and Laura, Bruce and Kimberly

LATEST TRICKS: "Monumental" South Dakoka

2010-12-14T08:19:00.000-05:00

Custer, South Dakota
Friday, September 24, 2010

Bright sunshine welcomed the four of us into the Great Room for a tasty breakfast and a lovely mountainside waterfall view. What a way to start the day!

We then set out for the classic American icon, Mount Rushmore National Memorial, via the Iron Mountain Road. The highway winds through the lush natural beauty of the Black Hills.

The icing on the cake was three tunnels, carved out of the mountain rock, including two that frame Mount Rushmore perfectly.

The grand memorial was truly spectacular when viewed from across the valley. It was surreal to look across such an expanse of forest and see the heads of our presidents embedded in the mountain. We etched the vista in our minds at every turn.

Once we arrived at the Memorial site, it was interesting to watch the faces of people as they approached the monument through the Avenue of Flags. How did our faces look? We enjoyed a few quiet moments standing on the terrace facing those stony visages.

Then we headed to another deeply meaningful effigy, the Crazy Horse Memorial, whose mission is to “honor the culture, tradition and living heritage of North American Indians.” We couldn’t come up with better words to explain what we wished to do while visiting this memorial.

Crazy Horse is a massive work-in-process and we felt fortunate to see it in its formative stages. We look forward to seeing the completion of this great tribute and artistic masterpiece in our lifetime.

The most unexpected and appreciated part of the memorial site was its museum and exhibits about American Indian art, history and culture. The collections and displays, as well as the orientation video and sculptor's workshop and studio, were enlightening and inspiring.

With our heads and our hearts full, we headed back into the Black Hills via the legendary Needles Highway. Words cannot begin to describe our awe as towering rock formations and spectacular views unfolded around us.

At the summit was the Needle's Eye formation; we all agreed that this was a singularly incredible place, like none other we've seen.

As dusk settled in, we headed to the Blue Bell Lodge and the Tatanka Dining Room for dinner. (Tatanka is the Lakota word for "buffalo"). We had an excellent dinner beside the great stone hearth in the log dining room, surrounded by spectacular wildlife mounts.

It was a fitting end to an extraordinary day!

-- Ted and Laura, Bruce and Kimberly

LATEST TRICKS: The Natural Beauty of South Dakota

2010-12-13T04:27:00.008-05:00

Custer, South Dakota
Thursday, September 23, 2010

We were excited to start a new chapter in our journey today as we joined our friends Bruce and Kimberly for breakfast in the cozy Great Room of our motel. The flames were glowing in the fireplace and the coffee and hot cinnamon rolls smelled soooo good.

We shared a relaxing breakfast near the fireplace, viewing the mountain waterfall outside.

It was damp and rainy so we thought that going subterranean at Jewel Cave National Monument would be a good plan. We took the in-depth (no pun intended) tour of Jewel Cave with Ranger Bethann Herman. She was an excellent guide offering detailed information with a delightful sense of humor.

We were surprised to learn that it is the second longest cave system in the world. Only 152 miles have been mapped so far; they believe that it may be much larger.

The site was a subterranean wonderland. The caverns are unlike any other we have visited. We are accustomed to “wet” caves filled with stalactites, stalagmites, flowstone and draperies. Instead, the walls and ceilings of Jewel Cave are mostly dry and are covered with a thick crust of calcite crystals, boxwork and other filigree formations. It definitely was a “jewel” to behold.

By the time we came back to the surface, the rain was gone and the sun was awaiting us. So, we headed east to Custer State Park, eager to view its renowned natural beauty and wildlife.

We drove around beautiful Stockade Lake and then followed the Wildlife Loop Road through the park.

We were in awe of the wildlife that we encountered: pronghorn, white tail deer, prairie dogs, wild turkeys, incredibly friendly “begging” burros, and the pride of the park—a massive heard of free-ranging American Bison.

We were able to drive on unpaved roads among the buffalo as they headed across the prairie. We watched and wove among them, marveling at their stoic magnificence, until the sun had set behind the mountains. What an experience!

The four of us celebrated this exceptional day of natural wonders with a sublime dinner of pheasant, bison, and elk at the dining room of the historic State Game Lodge. We were quickly learning that the animals of the prairie are honored in the west in many ways—conservation, respectful hunting, mounted display, and deliciously dining.

Back at the motel, we spent some time chatting around the hot tub, sharing our impressions of an incredible day.
-- Ted and Laura, Bruce and Kimberly

LATEST TRICKS: Welcome Bruce and Kimberly

2010-12-09T04:31:00.000-05:00

Wall, South Dakota
Wednesday, September 22, 2010

We started our day at the roadside legend, Wall Drug. Famous since 1931 for serving $0.05 coffee and free ice water, Wall Drug is a fun-filled tourist trap.

We took a whirlwind tour of the complex which includes:
-- An indoor street of shops

-- A Frontier Town complete with classic Western arcade games, whimsical squirting water fountains, a horse-drawn wagon, a giant jackalope, and even an animatronics T-Rex!

-- A soda fountain and cafeteria-style restaurant

-- Travelers Chapel

-- Room after room of everything from Black Hills gold jewelry to chocolate fudge, and bobble-head elks to Frederic Remington bronze sculptures.

Our “must-haves” included a Wall Drug coffee mug and history booklet, magnets of the states we’ve visited so far, and a complimentary Wall Drug bumper sticker. Of course, we had to partake of the free ice water which was indeed ice cold. With espresso malts from the soda fountain and a buffalo burger from the restaurant, we headed westward once more across the Great Plains.

While we were exploring Wall Drugs, our friends from home—Bruce and Kimberly--were winging their way across the USA to join us for the next ten days of the trip. Once we arrived at Rapid City Regional Airport, we had a mission: rearrange the van and clear out the back seat so Bruce and Kim won’t have to ride on the roof. We wondered what airport security must have thought as we dragged bins, books, blankets and more out of the van and onto the pavement, scurried around a bit, and then stuffed it all back in again.

Dressed in our matching “Cheese Days” shirts and cheese beads, with Ted in his cheese fez and Laura in her Viking hat (all from Wisconsin), we stood right next to the TSA entry/exit area awaiting our friends’ arrival. We were so thrilled to see them when they came through the gate. They probably wondered what they had gotten themselves into when they saw the pair of us!

It was such a happy reunion as we piled into the van and headed eastward to Badlands National Park. The four of us were breathless as we drove through the vast expanse of brightly striped, sculpted sandstone buttes amid the grass prairies. The colors of the sandstone changed dramatically as the sun dropped lower in the sky. The beauty was both vibrant and stark.

After the Badlands, a stop back at Wall Drug seemed even more surreal than our morning visit. But we didn’t want Bruce & Kim to miss this wacky attraction. Then, the Red Rock Restaurant in Wall welcomed us with a homey atmosphere, great hospitality, and some tasty food including buffalo rib eye steak (that’s buffalo as in bison not spicy wing sauce). Bruce and Ted tried Fat Tire Ale for the first time and were quite impressed.

We headed west once more to Custer, SD to check-in at the Holiday Inn Express. This was not the average business-style chain hotel. The décor was reflective of the area, particularly in the Great Room, which had a vaulted, timbered ceiling, log-style furnishings, a towering stone fireplace, and floor-to-ceiling windows framing the hills and waterfall behind the hotel.

Welcome to the Black Hills of South Dakota!
-- Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Time Travel

2010-12-09T03:13:00.002-05:00

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Hello cyber-travelers! Starting with our next blog entry, you can embark on a bit of time travel. As promised, we are going back in time to fill in all of those marvelous days of the trip that we did not blog about while on the road. We will now bring you those days in sequence, starting with Wednesday, September 22nd. Please watch for updates as we continue to add posts over the next few weeks. We're glad that you are an ongoing part of the Old Dogs, New Tricks journey.

-- Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: We're Home. But Wait...There's More!

2010-11-28T15:32:00.000-05:00

After 80 days, 28 states, and 10,538 miles, the Old Dogs have returned home. What a trip it has been! We have so much to share and we WILL be doing that. This trip was about learning, growing, discovering and sharing. As you've seen by the gaping holes in our blog entries, one of the things we learned was that it was much more challenging than we expected to publish a detailed daily blog in addition to all that comes with a trip of this magnitude: Driving; exploring; socializing; meeting up, and sometimes traveling with, friends and family; taking care of personal "housekeeping" and life details; planning; sleeping; and making sure that there was space for "down time".

So, we thank you for your interest, your support, and your patience as we continue to bring our expedition to you little-by-little over the next few weeks. We will be filling in all of the gaps as well as adding our insights and observations. We look forward to your feedback and ideas as a part of this ongoing journey.

ROAD WISDOM: Wandering

2010-11-17T15:44:00.000-05:00

Not all those who wander are lost.
J.R.R. Tolkien

Not all those who wander will keep their blog up-to-date.
Ted & Laura

Not all neglected blogs are lost.
Wanderers eventually return home and write about their wanderings!

LATEST TRICKS: A Taos Sampler

2010-11-09T02:32:00.000-05:00

Taos, New Mexico
Thursday, October 28, 2010

While relaxing beside the fire in our room at El Pueblo Lodge this morning, we paid bills, posted another blog entry and enjoyed a tasty breakfast from the Dragonfly Café. Their spicy pumpkin-chili bread and sweet raspberry and pear tarts were simply delicious.

With business and breakfast taken care of, we returned to the Taos Pueblo for a little more quality time. It was another crisp and sunny fall day and the pueblo seemed full of life and good cheer.

We stopped at Sonny Spruce's shop and were glad to see Zoe again. She was so friendly and helpful to us, answering all our questions about the various handcrafts and the artists who created them. We really enjoyed our experience there.

We also enjoyed seeing Sunflower paint exquisite, finely-detailed pottery and purchased some of her and her daughter Plum Blossom's work. In addition, we admired the creative artistry of Jacqueline Gala.

After the pueblo, we walked around Taos' historic square and stopped into several interesting shops. We enjoyed the many fine crafts at the Artists Co-op and were fascinated by the fabulous Day of the Dead displays at Dwellings Revisited.

Looking to warm up as the sun went down, we stopped into The Adobe Bar at the Historic Taos Inn. Known as "The Living Room of Taos", it was a lovely space to relax in, with a large kiva-style fireplace in one corner and wooden beams supporting a two-story arched ceiling.

Further enhancing the mood, Teresa Storch was playing guitar and singing jazz, folk and blues. Theresa is traveling the United States and has brought her music to 33 states over four years.

The Adobe Bar's signature margaritas were outstanding and the green chili stew and quesadilla appetizers hit the spot. Our waitress, Merilee, was friendly, personable, and always there at just the right moment. She made us feel truly "at home".

Before moving on, we added our departed loved ones' names to the community Day of the Dead alter at the Inn. It was so nice to remember those who have passed on before us and left their imprints on our lives and our hearts.

We then headed straight for an encore dinner at The Love Apple. Jen and Marianne greeted us with enthusiasm and we had the pleasure of meeting Rachel, also a waitress at The Love Apple. The place was bustling, but, to our delight, a table for two had just opened up.

Once again, our dining experience was exceptional. From the beet, avocado and grapefruit salad to the ribeye with roasted yam and potato au gratin (not to mention the tamale, pecan pie, and apple crisp) the flavors, presentations and service were unparalleled.

It was another exquisite dining experience thanks to Jen, Chef Andrea Meyer, Marianne, Rachel and all of the staff. We cannot praise you enough for the culinary paradise you have created. A thousand "Thank You's"!

We wrapped up the evening cozy in the glow of the fireplace back in our room at the El Pueblo. Ahhhh....
-- Ted and Laura

LASTEST TRICKS: Ancient Roots in Taos

2010-11-03T13:27:00.000-04:00

Taos, New Mexico
Wednesday, October 27, 2010

This morning, Laura proposed the first major alteration in our itinerary since our decision to forgo visiting Michigan at the start of our trip. She suggested that we stay in Taos an extra day, add an extra overnight somewhere between Taos and Oklahoma City, and make up the two days by forgoing Vicksburg. This schedule change made great sense since it would give us more time in Taos, split up the 9-hour drive to Oklahoma City, and allow us to route through areas of Mississippi that were more in keeping with the themes of our trip in that state (namely, the blues and civil rights). The important Civil War history of Vicksburg would be better suited to another trip. Ted heartily endorsed the proposed change in itinerary and a small flurry of phone calls and online activity ensued. Happily, our reservations were easily rescheduled and Plan B went into effect immediately!

Our new itinerary secured, we set out to visit the Taos Pueblo. On our way, we stopped at the Dragonfly Café and Bakery for some lunch and baked goods to go. What a darling place!

The adobe hearth and warm yellows and reds beckoned us to stay, but we had our sights set on eating our lunch at the foot of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains amid the snow-capped peaks and late autumn splendor. The bison burger and curried chicken salad were even more delicious when eaten roadside al fresco in such a spectacular setting!

After lunch, we entered Taos Pueblo--the only living Native American community designated both a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and a National Historic Landmark.

These adobe buildings have been continuously inhabited for over 1000 years. Here the People of the Red Willow maintain a way of life and faith that honors their past.

The community has adapted over time to many outside influences--the Spanish Conquistadors, the Catholic Church, the United States Government, and Modern Society--yet it has continued to live and practice its traditions.

We felt honored, privileged and humbled to be allowed into their village, dwellings and church, and deeply moved by the sometimes devastating, sometimes triumphant history of these courageous people.

Our thanks to Winona for guiding us through the pueblo and to the many shopkeepers and villagers who warmly welcomed us to their home. It was an experience we will not soon forget.

From the pueblo, we drove out to the Rio Grande Gorge and Bridge to watch the sunset over the mountains.

It was spectacular, and the phrase "purple mountains majesty" never seemed more appropriate.

After running a few errands in town, we went to The Love Apple (la pomme d'amour) for dinner. And what a dinner it was!

Not only was it the best meal we had enjoyed in New Mexico, but it was one of the best meals we had enjoyed anywhere! The food (all locally sourced and organically produced wherever possible), the atmosphere (think gently aging adobe chapel), and the service (impeccable) all blended into a dining experience that was intensely romantic, deeply sensuous and fabulously delicious.

The Love Apple is a destination unto itself. Owner/Manager Jen, Chef Andrea Meyer, our waitress Marianne and everyone in the kitchen are a wonderful team that creates an experiential and culinary masterpiece. We vowed to return tomorrow for a sequel.
-- Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: The High Road to Taos

2010-11-01T17:32:00.000-04:00

Santa Fe to Taos, New Mexico
Tuesday, October 26, 2010 (Happy Birthday Ted!)

Three months on the road requires some periodic "household maintenance" and we were definitely due. So, we started off the day doing laundry at the motel, hauling much of the contents of the van out onto the pavement, and repacking the whole kit-and-caboodle. Perhaps the staff found it a bit odd to see hot pink plastic bins, tote bags, shoes, cans of Diet Coke, fresh-washed clothes, and books strewn about their parking lot, but it all made sense to us.

Content with our reorganization, we took a stroll around the beautiful grounds of our motel, the El Rey Inn, before a cheerful check-out with Sylvia at the front desk.

Now it was time for fortification and the Tecolote Café was the perfect spot. We had a hearty and delicious southwestern lunch of Huevos Yucatecos with fresh-baked biscuits, blueberry muffins and flour tortillas.

The Café was celebrating 30 years in business and we can understand why they have been successful. The food was wonderful and everyone there was friendly, hospitable, and excited to hear about our journey. They shared several good recommendations for some of our upcoming destinations and wished us safe, happy travels.

Pleasantly stuffed, we set off on The High Road to Taos, a recognized scenic byway. As much as we enjoyed Santa Fe, it felt good to get back into nature. The views along The High Road were breathtaking.

One memorable stop along the way was El Santuario de Chimayo. Built between 1813 and 1816, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. El Santurario is known locally as "The American Lourdes" because of its reputation for miracles and healing. It felt like a "sacred space" because of its beauty, serenity and the reverence that it embodied. It was inspiring to visit this special place.

Arriving at Taos, we checked in to the El Pueblo Lodge and headed out to dinner. Finding most of our original picks closed on Tuesdays, we followed an old traveler's trick--look for the place with the most cars in the parking lot. That place was clearly the Guadalajara Grill North. Inside we found a cheerful, casual Mexican restaurant. We shared their Chicken Monterrey and Camarones Veracruz with sides of rice, beans, corn tortillas, guacamole and salsa fresca. What a feast! Ted tried the Mexican beer Carta Blanca and absolutely loved it. He said it reminded him of the refreshing light beer Medalla that he enjoyed so much in Puerto Rico. I think he'll be stocking up on Carta Blanca from the local grocery store!

After dinner, we returned to our cozy room at El Pueblo Lodge, lit a fire in the kiva-style fireplace, and relaxed with some American Indian flute music. Sublime. Ted said it was a perfect birthday.
-- Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Historic Santa Fe

2010-10-28T15:21:00.000-04:00

Santa Fe, New Mexico
Monday, October 25, 2010

We took care of some personal business details in the morning before heading out for an unusual Monday brunch at Chicago Dog Express. (Yes, we are still in Santa Fe).

This place gets awards year after year for the best Chicago-style hot dog and we have to agree. The quarter pound Vienna Beef was cradled in an ultra-fresh hoagie roll with relish and mustard and then overflowed with crisp cucumber & tomato chucks tossed in a light, delicious oil and vinegar dressing. This was a truly delicious meal-on-a-bun.

Moving on to the Old Santa Fe Trail, we visited Mission de San Miguel, Originally built in 1610, it is reported to be the oldest church in the United States. The handcrafted religious folk art adorning the church was beautiful.

Across the tiny street alongside the Mission was La Casa Viejas de Analco, initially built in 1200 AD, it is considered to be the oldest house in the USA. This was a hidden gem with much to offer. There was an interesting video as well as historical displays and some curious lore.

Just as delightful was the adjoining coffee, tea and bake shop, Tiendita del Barrio, and its proprietor, Evelyn Roybal. The cozy adobe setting embraced us and we had a wonderful conversation with Evelyn, who is also the Historic Properties Director for both the House and the Mission. Her prior experience with radiology marketing paralleled Laura's story exactly. It was if they were kindred spirits, separated at birth but still living parallel lives. What an amazing connection! Evelyn has done a marvelous job of curating and restoring the old house and adding the lovely little shop to the reception and lobby area. And we must say, her baking is spectacular. We tasted one of her Bizcochito (the official State Cookie of New Mexico) and ended up buying all that she had left; they were exceptional! We wish Evelyn all the best in her new role!

The area around the Oldest Church and House is known as Barrio de Analco. It is the oldest part of Santa Fe and its spiritual center. We strolled along the narrow streets and peeked into the exotic courtyards of the Inn of the Five Graces.

After peering in the windows of The Pink Adobe Restaurant, we stopped into the adjoining Dragon Room Lounge to escape the blustery cold weather. Behind the massive carved wooden doors we found a romantic hideaway filled with lanterns, cushioned banquets, and a glowing kiva fireplace at one end. We took the table right in front of the fireplace and enjoyed some hearty beverages (thanks Monica!) while writing postcards and reminiscing about our time in Santa Fe.

We were hesitant to leave the oasis of the Dragon Room, but we wanted to do a bit more exploring before dinner. Our first stop was the Stan Natchez Art Studio. We were warmly welcomed by Viento Natchez whose father's work was exhibited throughout the Dragon Room Lounge and gallery. Viento was preparing pieces for the upcoming Day of the Dead celebration, which he invited us to experience the next time we were in Santa Fe. We look forward to taking him up on that offer!

For dinner, we headed to La Choza, a restaurant we had spotted earlier in the day. The adobe building looked cozy and reviews said that the food was delicious. It certainly was! We tried a combination platter of Carne Adovado, Tamale with Green Chili Sauce, and Chicken Taquito, all served with pinto beans, posole, and sopapilla. Oh my! This was true southwestern home cooking and the flavors, while spicy, were terrific. Galen, our server, was attentive and personable, and the host at the front desk was a hoot! Sort of a cross between Gene Wilder and Frank Zappa. He certainly made sure that we came and left with a smile.

After dinner, we returned to the El Rey Inn for a soak in the sublime outdoor hot tub and then prepared for tomorrow's trip to Taos.
-- Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Art Immersion in Santa Fe

2010-10-27T01:11:00.001-04:00

Santa Fe, New Mexico
Sunday, October 24, 2010

We took some time this morning to get our blog back on track and then headed to the Sunday New Mexico Artisans Market. There was an interesting variety of handcrafted goods ranging from paintings to soap to blown glass.

There were two artists that we met whose art, as well as their personalities, captivated us: Paul FourHorns Tenoso, a Lakota stoneknapper, and Cathy Veblen, an imaginative potter, both of Anthro Pottery Studio and Gallery in Corrales, New Mexico. Paul is an excellent teacher and craftsman; he shared a wealth of information about the traditional methods and tools for creating arrow, knife and spear points from stone.

Cathy shared her own experiences of traveling the country and introduced us to her friend Carol, a Santa Fe resident from Portland, Oregon and self-proclaimed foodie. We all had a delightful conversation and left with many ideas and recommendations.

One of those recommendations was the Tune-Up Café. Since it was just down the street and it was about that time, we headed there for lunch. This place was a cheerful, casual delight. They’re particularly well known for their El Salvadoran pupusas and with good reason: Yum!

Afterward, we drove to the famed Canyon Road and strolled among the many beautiful art galleries.

As the sun set over the mountains, we stopped by El Farol on Canyon Road for drinks and a dinner of Spanish Tapas accompanied by the gentle acoustic sounds and mellow vocals of Macha Mendez, Latin Soul. It was a romantic and delicious way to greet the evening!

Stuffed and serenaded, we returned to our motel for a luxurious soak in the outdoor hot tub. It is tucked away in a private Spanish courtyard complete with a kiva fireplace. What more could you ask for?
-- Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Savory Santa Fe

2010-10-25T02:11:00.000-04:00

Santa Fe, New Mexico
Saturday, October 23, 2010

This morning we went to the Farmer's Market at the Santa Fe Railyard.

The aroma of roasting chili peppers, the sound of Mexican folk songs, and the vibrant colors of fruits, vegetables, marigolds, sunflowers and dahlias tickled the senses.

Vendors proudly displayed their produce and wares, offering a friendly "hello" and often a sample or tidbits about their products.

Signs of autumn were everywhere: pumpkins, gourds, squash and ristras (arrangements of drying chili pepper pods) and the fanciful skeletons that signal the upcoming El Dia de los Muertos or "Day of the Dead". It was a festive, fall day at the market.

We enjoyed spending time chatting with vendors such as Lisa Fox of Southwest Chutney and Les Crowder of For the Love of Bees. Of course we had to buy some of their delicious chutney and honey, as well as Lisa’s beautiful book, Artisan Farming: Lessons, Lore, and Recipes. Surrounded by all the lovely produce, breads and cheeses, we longed to cook; if only we had a kitchen!

Hungry after all that temptation, we stopped in to the Second Street Brewery right there at the market and Railyard. Ted sampled a flight of their beers (thumbs up to the Kolsch, ESB, and Schwarzbier) while Laura sipped Dry Creek Sauvignon Blanc.

We shared a bowl of Chicken and Green Chili Stew and a Farmers Lunch of locally-produced lamb sausage, artisan cheeses, toasted bread and field greens--all beautifully presented, fresh and delicious. During lunch we had a delightful conversation with two members of our Air Force who were visiting Santa Fe on a weekend break from a training program in Albuquerque. We thoroughly enjoyed their company and expressed our appreciation for their service to our country.

After lunch, we spent some time strolling the grounds of our Santa Fe home, the El Rey Inn, and planning the rest of our day. We headed to the heart of the historic district, the Plaza. There we browsed and chatted with the American Indian craftspeople outside of the Palace of Governors and peeked into a few of the many shops and galleries.

We had a lovely conversation with Brooke Williams in her shop, Posters of Santa Fe; she made us feel truly welcomed and offered many helpful suggestions. Just before sunset, we took a break at the Marble Brewery Tap Room so that we could lounge on their balcony overlooking the Plaza and listen to the live music that filled the square.

As sunset turned to dusk, we walked over to the very popular Café Pasqual and put in our name for dinner. Two seats opened up at their Community Table in the center of the restaurant, so we soon found ourselves enjoying a sumptuous southwestern meal with four other couples: one couple lives in Santa Fe, one in Los Angeles, one in Pacific Palisades, and one in San Diego. We had the most delightful time sharing stories, experiences and ideas. We were reminded what a small world it is as we learned that one of the couples shared the same October 20th wedding anniversary as us and one used to live in our home area and worked with a mutual acquaintance.

Near the end of our meal we also had a chance to meet a man from Sweden who is an Information Technology Consultant working in Vancouver and Chicago. It was wonderful to meet such interesting people while sharing a delicious meal. It reminded us of our “Dinner Club” back home. We'd love to see more restaurants offer a Community Table option. It made for a very special evening!
-- Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Learning As We Go

2010-10-24T12:29:00.000-04:00

Sunday, October 24, 2010

We are over half way into the Old Dogs, New Tricks expedition! As we hoped, this journey is bringing with it discovery, exploration and thinking outside-the-box. But what we are learning is not always what we expected—indeed, looking up the definition of discovery we find the words “uncover, reveal, unearth, disclose”. We are grateful for each and every aspect of this journey, especially the unexpected discoveries.

Some discoveries are more personal, others are more practical. We’ll let those personal discoveries keep percolating for now, but on the practical side, we’ve discovered that keeping a blog up-to-date is much more challenging than we expected! When it was just the two of us traveling in the north central states, we could stay on top of our entries pretty well. But, when we added in traveling with friends, visiting family and friends, and the fatigue that comes from high altitude (yet another discovery), blogging regularly and creatively became more challenging. So, while we have our notes, memories and photos, we find ourselves about a month behind on the published blog entries. That’s a lot to catch up on without sequestering ourselves in a motel room for a couple of days! Meanwhile, trying to get caught up none-the-less, we haven’t been posting current entries.

So that we can once again provide you with a near real-time travel experience, we have decided to temporarily set aside the catch-up process and start moving forward with blog entries starting today. This was a difficult decision because…
-- We’ve met some marvelous people this past month and we want them to know how much they have touched us.
-- The time we shared traveling with our friends was precious and we want that experience reflected on the blog so that we can all share it with others.
-- The visits with friends and family in Nevada and Arizona were so special and we want to share the love.
-- And, we’re organized people that like chronological sequencing.

But, “on-the-road and off-the-leash” is teaching us about flexibility. We WILL get that missing month filled in but that may come much later or after we have returned home. There is much to tell about our experiences in South Dakota, Wyoming, Idaho, Utah, Nevada, Arizona and Colorado. (Oh yeah, we made tracks in that missing month!) In the meantime, hop on board once again. We’re in Santa Fe, New Mexico and we’ve got things to tell you!
-- Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Lend Me An Ear

2010-10-17T04:57:00.000-04:00

Mitchell, South Dakota
Tuesday, September 21, 2010

We had a great night's sleep at the Holiday Inn Express, then drove into Mitchell to see the world-famous Corn Palace.

First, we enjoyed a tasty brunch of corn chowder, corn dogs and corn-on-the-cob (what else?) on the patio of The Scoreboard Pub and Grille with a great view of the Palace.

We then walked up and down Main Street marveling at the brickwork and architecture.

During our stroll, we popped into Jackpot Gamblin's Saloon, Casino and Western Museum. What atmosphere! They have the tiniest casino we've ever seen: just 6 or 8 video slot machines.

At the Corn Palace Gift Shop, we had delightful conversations with Troy and Mavis. Troy offered to have us join a tour he was giving to a bus group from Missouri, so we tagged along and received an excellent guided tour of the Corn Palace (thanks Troy)!

It's a sight to see both inside and out, with photos of ALL the Corn Palaces from the first one in 1892 to this year's 2010 theme of "Travel and Transportation Through The Ages". An appropriate theme for our journey around the country!

Having had our fill of corn, we hit the road once again. The broad, flat plains west of Mitchell dropped off dramatically to the Missouri River at Chamberlain. On the west bank, the terrain became rippled with rolling mounds, presaging the Badlands yet to come. The mounds eventually gave way to broad, undulating plains silhouetted against a tricolored sunset. So many beautiful vistas!

The dinner bell rang as we approached Kadoka, about 48 miles east of Wall. We heeded the call and pulled in for dinner at Club 27. Keri, our waitress, was so nice and introduced us to Finger Steaks: strips of sirloin either breaded and deep-fried or grilled. We had ours grilled with onion rings and breaded mushrooms. Yum!

After one last stretch on the road, we called it a night at the Sunshine Inn Motel in Wall. Lorna, who checked us in, is quite an artist. We bought two packs of notecards featuring her work.

The Sunshine Inn Motel is a classic; nothing fancy, just neat, clean and cozy. We tumbled into bed tired and happy, looking forward to an exciting day tomorrow.
--Ted and Laura

ROAD WISDOM: The Journey

2010-10-15T13:30:00.000-04:00

What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us. ~Ralph Waldo Emerson

Thanks to our dear friends Kim and Bill for sharing this Road Wisdom with us.

LATEST TRICKS: Westward Ho!

2010-10-13T15:53:00.002-04:00

Wisconsin, Iowa, Minnesota, South Dakota
Monday, September 20, 2010

Packed up Rover and paid one last visit to Schubert's as we headed out of Wisconsin. It was great to see Steve again and to meet some of his other staff, including the lovely Darlene.

Of course, we had to get one more bag of their delicious rosettes and a loaf of their wonderful Swedish rye bread to go. While there, we met the very charming Le Roy Briggs of Missouri. This gregarious retired doctor put great big grins on our faces.

Heading west, we took a wrong turn somewhere along the way and ended up in Potosi, Wisonsin. It was a happy accident, as we discoved the wonderful Potosi Brewing Company. Dee at the Interpretive Center and Transporation Museum was warm-hearted and welcoming. Props to the guys pouring beer behind the beautiful semicircular bar in the Restaurant and Pub, too.

Stocked with Good Old Potosi Beer and Cave Ale, we headed northwest to meet the Mississippi River and to travel a stretch of The Great River Road. We crossed over into Marquette, Iowa for peek so that we could set foot in The Hawkeye State before continuing our journey westward.

We traveled across southern Minnesota to make some time after dark. It was one of the few interstate stretches we had taken since the beginning of the trip. Even this had its delights, such as spotting an ocean of red blinking lights as far as the eye could see in every direction, indicating a massive wind farm hidden in the darkness. Or witnessing a brilliant electrical storm in full panoramic splendor over the broad plains near Sioux Falls, South Dakota. Mother Nature sure puts on a magnificent show!

Last but not least was THE FROGS. Hundreds of them, leaping merrily all over the highway in celebration of the rain. It was like the Olympic Grand Slalom event just trying to avoid them--and not all such attempts were successful. A curious end to a day filled with surprises!

We turned in for the night at an especially lovely Holiday Inn Express in Mitchell, South Dakota. After a long day on the road, we appraciated the warm welcome we received from Bob at the front desk. A retired Intelligence Officer in the Naval Reserves, Bob has visited Hawaii many times over the years and shares our love of the "Big Island" of Hawaii. We exchanged stories before retiring for the night, pleased to have made the acquaintance of a fellow traveler.
--Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Behold the Power of Cheese

2010-10-07T05:00:00.000-04:00

Monroe, Wisconsin
Sunday, September 19, 2010

Today was the ultimate Wisconsin day...we went to the Green County Cheese Days.

This celebration of cheese has been going on since 1914. Now held every other year, we thanked our lucky stars that we were in the right place at the right time. We met locals who haven't missed a Cheese Days since their childhood as well as folks from surrounding states that were eager to partake of the revelry and the cheese.

We watched the parade from the bleachers, bought cheesewear, sampled the best of Green County cheese, and tried local specialities such as creme puffs; grilled peanut butter, jelly and cheese; deep fried cheese curds, and Limburger cheese sandwiches (darned good!).

Ted sampled the local brews from New Glarus and Minhas breweries and we topped off our culinary adventure with the ubiquitous Wisconsin brots and landjaegers.

We peeked inside the Goetz Theatre, a classic Midwestern atmospheric theatre built in 1931.

Then we toured the Minhas Craft Brewery, the oldest brewery in the Midwest.

At the end of the tour, we met one of the owners of the brewery as well as Herb and Helen Haydock, founders of the Haydock World of Beer Memorabilia Museum.

It was such a pleasure to chat with the Haydocks and learn more about their extensive collection. As Herb said, "Everybody's got to collect something. It's not about the collecting; it's about the people you meet, the places you travel to, and the stories you hear." We couldn't agree more! Indeed, our favorite part of Cheese Days was the warm embrace of the people we met.

We wrapped up the day at town favorite, Baumgartner's, for one last taste of Green County specialties before heading back to our motel in Verona.

What a delightful, delicious and memorable day!
--Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Wisconsin Rocks!

2010-10-06T02:38:00.000-04:00

Southern Wisconsin
Saturday, September 18, 2010

As promised the night before, We started our day with a visit to Schubert's Downtown Diner and Bakery.

Steve greeted us at the door with open arms, soon followed by a warm welcome from Julie. We were delighted to be back in the presence of these wonderful folks and hope that we were able to share that generosity of spirit in return.

We ordered a Lefse Omelette and a plate of Norwegian Meatballs, both appropriate to the local area. Both were delicious.

Steve got out his laptop computer and showed us a video on how the Lefse, a traditional soft Norwegian flatbread, was made from mashed potatoes, milk and flour. Wow! Like we said, these guys are something special.

The icing on the cake was when Julie told us that she had a heartfelt gift for us--A very special cookbook that her family and friends had put together as a fundraiser for the American Cancer Society's Relay for Life (Julie is the area's Relay chairperson). The book was dedicated to her father, who lost his life to lung cancer. The cookbook was filled with special family recipes, as well as those contributed by friends, and Julie wanted us to have a copy. What a wonderful, heartfelt, and unexpected gift! Laura and I were truly touched, not only by Julie's generosity but also by the loving nature of her family--which we had experienced first hand when we stopped into Schubert's the previous night. We had everyone at the restaurant sign the book, which we will treasure and enjoy using for years to come.

THANK YOU to everyone at Schubert's for making our visit to Mount Horeb a truly memorable one. Your joyous and generous spirit will be with us and paid forward wherever we go.

Now it was time for something completely different...the legendary House on the Rock. How does one begin to describe this place? It is a massive monument to creator Alex Jordan's unbridled creative spirit comingled with his unrelenting urge to build collections of intriguing objects. The brochure describes it as best as anything can: "A one-of-a-kind adventure and treasure-trove of some of the world's most unique architecture and eclectic collections filled with the exotic, the whimsical and the unexpected." The size and scope of this place is staggering. This isn't just a house on some rock filled with a lot of cool stuff. This is a series of warehouse-sized galleries that have consumed the side of a mountain. Take a Valium (or two) and check it out!

As we were touring the menagerie of rooms, buildings, and collections at the House on the Rock, we were also thinking of Alecia who we met at the Blue Gate restaurant in Indiana. She was getting married this afternoon at 3:00pm. Best wishes Alecia; we wish you a long, healthy marriage that is bursting with friendship, good humor, and the joys and comforts of true love.

Our heads were spinning after touring the House on the Rock. A stop at Peck's Farm Market East in Spring Green helped calm the senses. We enjoyed hot mulled cider and molasses cookies while strolling around the property. Their fall displays were beautiful, as was the spectacular sunset over the cornfields. Peck's had a menagerie of their own that we enjoyed-- bison, elk, several species of deer, a wallaby, a donkey, rheas, a pot-bellied pig, ducks, homing pigeons, roosters, peafowl, sheep, goats, and the most colorful varieties of pheasant we had ever seen. What a delightful, tasty and relaxing stop!

We continued toward our hotel in Verona with a quick stop at a place we just couldn't pass up--The Firm Worm Bait-n-Liquor Shop. Where else can you get a pizza, a fifth of gin, and some nightcrawlers all in one place?!

After stocking up on a few supplies (none of which could be used as bait), we went to a laundromat in Verona where we did some necessary wash as well as a re-vamp of the organization in Rover (our van). When you're on the road, you make the most of handy settings like a drive-up laundromat with good lighting!
--Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: The Heart of Wisconsin

2010-10-04T12:13:00.000-04:00

Southern Wisconsin
Friday, September 17, 2010

Today we spent the day driving through the beautiful farmland and small towns of southwestern Wisconsin. What gorgeous scenery and the most heartwarming people!

We meandered through the lush and colorful countryside, arriving in Mineral Point just in time for a delicious visit to the Red Rooster Cafe, famous for their Cornish Pasties.

Mineral Point grew up around the Cornish lead-mining town of Pendarvis, and pasties were the miner's lunch of choice. A pastry pocket filled with meat, potatoes and vegetables, it was easily stored in the pocket of your overalls until lunchtime and required no utensils or plates to eat it. Owner Helena Lawinger has been making these yummy pockets of goodness the traditional way (with lard) for more than 30 years and we'd say she's got it perfected!

Our luck couldn't have been better; Helena and her granddaughter Mandy, were there and welcomed us with open arms. We felt like long-lost family! (That's Mandy behind the camera. Nice shot, Mandy!)

If ever you find yourself anywhere near Mineral Point, be sure to pay a visit to the Red Rooster Cafe and try some of Helena's Cornish Pasties. (Be sure to save room for Figgyhobbin, too. We'll let Helena explain that one. Let's just say it's heaven on earth!)

We found Mineral Point to be a charming community with beautifully maintained 19th century architecture. It has established itself as quite an arts center, so a stroll through its various shops and galleries is a great way to spend a day. There are also some lovely accommodations available if you decide to make Mineral Point your home base for exploring Southwestern Wisconsin.

After walking around Mineral Point, we drove down the street to the historic lead-mining town of Pendarvis. Several restored buildings and historical markers give a nice impression of what life was like in this early 19th-century Cornish community.

For example, Shake Rag Street (the main thoroughfare) was so named because the miners' wives would call the men home for lunch by shaking a white rag which could be seen from the mine hill above the village.

As we strolled down Shake Rag Street, we made the acquaintance of a lovely gray kitty with white paws. She was enjoying the late afternoon sun from a picnic table beneath a great shade tree. She trotted right over to greet us and we soon discovered that a nearby fence and street lamp were her favorite scratching posts.

We played with her for awhile and shared some of our kitty treats. It felt so good to feel and hear a cat purring again! We are forever grateful for the time we spent with "Pendarvis" and have thought of her often since that day.

We left Pendarvis and Mineral Point and headed back toward Mount Horeb. Along the way we enjoyed the beautiful sunset over the rolling hills and corn fields.

As we came into town, a charming, old fashioned bakery and restaurant caught our eye.

We stopped in for a peek and discovered three of the most delightful women!

It turns out that Audrey, Julie, and Mary are sisters and all are working for Steve (Mary's significant other) who is the new owner of Schubert's Downtown Diner and Bakery.

They were a joyous crew and their good humor was immediately contagious. Soon we were talking all about our adventure, sticking pins into maps, taking group pictures (that's Mary's granddaughter) and swapping life stories.

We had a grand time and vowed to return the next day for breakfast.

After such a happy encounter it seemed strange to go to a place named the Grumpy Troll, but we had heard that it was one of the best brew pubs in the area.

Indeed it was! In fact, it was some of the best beer I had ever tasted. Their limited-edition Menage A Quade--an American, British, Russian and Belgian-style cask ale aged in bourbon barrels for 6 months--is a knock-out. Seriously, you owe it to yourself to get there and try one of their 12-beer flights. You'll thank us.

And while your there, why not order a Hamburg Brat? Don't ask--just try it.

As for me, I drank the beer, ate the food, and got the t-shirt. What more can I say?
--Ted

LATEST TRICKS: Yikes! Are We Behind or What?

2010-10-01T02:32:00.000-04:00

A big THANK YOU to all of our a loyal followers and new friends we have met along the way. We have SO MANY stories to tell and pictures to share that we haven't found enough time to post it all--yet. But we soon will catch up. So stay tuned and keep checking back. There is MUCH MORE to come from Wisconsin, South Dakota and Wyoming!
Love to all,
Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: From High Brow to Low Brow

2010-09-24T03:03:00.003-04:00

Southern Wisconsin
Thursday, September 16, 2010

Today, after years of saying "we've got to go there,” we toured Taliesin--Frank Lloyd Wright's home, architecture school, farm and estate in Spring Green, WI. Cindy, our tour guide, did an outstanding job. The 4-hour tour was fascinating, informative, and relaxing at the same time. Walking the grounds, as well as touring the buildings, helped give us a good sense of the "bigger picture” of Wright’s life and work. Plus we had an opportunity to meet Sherpa, Taliesin's cat-in-residence and tour guide extraordinaire.

Afterward, we had a delicious and scenic lunch at the Riverview Terrace Café in the Frank Lloyd Wright Visitor Center. It was the perfect conclusion to our tour--a delicious lunch in a glorious setting overlooking the Wisconsin River--plus fortification for browsing the center's superb bookstore.

With our heads full of art and architecture, we wandered the country roads through Spring Green, Sauk City, Prairie du Sac, Devil's Lake State Park and Baraboo. Devil's Lake was beautiful and surrounded by forest bluffs filled with rock outcroppings.

Baraboo was the winter quarters of the Ringling Bros. Circus. It is home to both the Circus World Museum and the gorgeous Al. Ringling Theatre, which is being restored to its full glory. It was a gift from Ringling to the community for its support.

We continued north to Wisconsin Dells for a look-see. Wow! This was a retro tourist mecca, complete with all the “requirements”—amusement parks, neon motel signs, two-story cowboy statues…you get the idea. We discovered that Sinclair gas stations still exist when we spotted a giant Sinclair dinosaur. Of course, we took advantage of the photo op with “Dino”.

Other interesting drive-bys included the Ho-Chunk Casino and Wally's House of Embers--a classic 1959 supper club and cocktail lounge.

As night settled in, we marveled at the amazing wooden rollercoasters at Mount Olympus theme park. They certainly seemed worthy of a return trip! Lastly, we grabbed a Mushroom-Swiss ButterBurger and a Sliced Prime Rib Sandwich at Culver's, a local fast-food chain that cooks up some tasty but naughty fare.

Ready for our cozy bed in Verona, we headed back for a good night’s rest.
--Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Trolls, Norwegians and Swiss--Oh My!

2010-09-20T02:46:00.000-04:00

Southern Wisconsin
Wednesday, September 15, 2010

We were delighted to find that our motel’s continental breakfast included make-your-own waffles. That was the perfect re-introduction to food after our bout with food poisoning. We took it slow for the first part of the day, hanging out in our room, doing some blogging, and taking care of other details that had gone by the wayside while in Chicago.

In the afternoon, we set out to get acquainted with a bit of the surrounding area. We headed west with our first stop being Mount Horeb, a lovely little community that has an interesting theme: trolls. Apparently, there was a tree blight some years ago and they lost a lot of their trees. What to do with all the wood and all the tree stumps? Carve trolls and perch them on the tree stumps, of course! Now, Mount Horeb is known as the Troll Capital of the World. Mind you, the town is not overrun with trolls but you will come across the urchins regularly.

Down the road from Mount Horeb we stopped by Little Norway, a pioneer homestead which perpetuates the culture of our Norwegian immigrants. A beautiful wooded drive led to the prettiest assemblage of Norwegian buildings. The crowning jewel was the Norway Building. Built in Norway for Chicago’s Columbian Exposition of 1893, it is a fine example of ancient Norse church architecture. It was too late in the day for a tour but we were grateful for the chance to see this treasure.

We then headed off on some rural county roads through lush farmland. Endless fields of straw-colored corn surrounded us on both sides, often fringed with fields of soy that had turned a brilliant yellow in anticipation of harvest. The contrast of these colors against the green rolling hills was a sight to behold.

Soon we found ourselves in America’s Little Switzerland, New Glarus. This delightful town was bursting in Alpine character, from the chalet-style buildings to the many Swiss heritage shops. Our drive around town also revealed another delight…cows! Not of the dairy variety, but whimsically-painted fiberglass cows in front of various businesses.

All this Swiss-ness made us hungry, so we headed to the New Glarus Hotel, favorably reviewed for its Swiss-German cuisine. It was darling!

The atmosphere was true to the character of the town, and the food…Oh my. Five different local cheeses on the salad bar, the best Split Pea and Ham Soup and Spaetzli we’ve ever had, and several things we’ve never had such as Roesti, Piccata Schnitzel and Filet Goulash Stroganoff. It was impossible to pick a favorite—or to finish an entire entrée! We took half of our dinner back to the motel, along with homemade German Chocolate Cake and Apple Kuchen. Thank goodness for in-room refrigerators!
--Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Wright At The Beginning

2010-09-19T10:06:00.000-04:00

Chicago, Illinois
Tuesday, September 14, 2010

We checked out of our motel this morning and headed to Oak Park, a lovely Chicago suburb that was Ernest Hemingway’s birthplace and houses the world’s largest collection of residential properties designed by renowned architect Frank Lloyd Wright. It was a dream-come-true to tour Wright’s home and studio. Pam, our tour guide, was fantastic. She used the features of the home and studio to illustrate the guiding design principles and evolution of Wright's work from 1889 to 1909, the period of time when he lived in Oak Park. Much of what we saw was breathtaking in both its simplicity and its complexity.

We then took the audio tour of the surrounding neighborhood to see many of the other homes that Wright designed and built.

Our audio tour was cut short by an unexpected circumstance—his and hers nausea and migraines. We just couldn’t complete the tour. Pondering what might have suddenly struck both of us at once, we realized that the symptoms started about six hours after eating breakfast sandwiches that morning. As time passed, there was no doubt about it—we both had food poisoning. All we wanted to do was get out of the city and on to our motel in Wisconsin. At that point, it was rush hour in Chicago so we crept along in traffic for about forty-five minutes before getting up to cruising speed. The highway became monotonous so we exited for a more interesting rural road.

We crossed the border into Wisconsin and took a drive through Lake Geneva—a gorgeous town surrounded by palatial estates and lovely houses. This spot would definitely be worth a future visit.

We drove along local roads until dark and then hopped on the highway, skirting around Madison—the capital of Wisconsin—and eagerly arrived at our motel, the Super 8 in the Madison suburb of Verona.

We were in the door, in bed, and asleep in record time.
-- Ted and Laura

LATEST TRICKS: Touring Chicago

2010-09-17T13:28:00.000-04:00

Chicago, Illinois
September 13, 2010

It was another picture-perfect day in Chicago. We hopped the “L” into the city and boarded the Double Decker Bus for an extensive tour of downtown Chicago.

We marveled at the vast array of architecture and enjoyed learning more about the history of this unique city.

After all that sight-seeing, we thought that cocktails at the lavish Palmer House sounded like just the ticket.

We thoroughly enjoyed chatting with bartender Shaunda and manager Lauren while sipping Goose Island Honker’s Ale--a beer brewed in Chicago--and chardonnay at the lobby bar. The Palmer's lobby is a sight to behold.

For dinner, we headed to another Chicago classic—The Berghoff, a family-owned German restaurant that has been in business since 1898.

Laura had been there back in the late 1980s and loved the place. It wasn’t the same quality and character that it was back in the ‘80s but it was still an enjoyable dinner. Ted had never been there so he was glad for the chance to see and taste the history.

We caught the “L” back to the Pulaski station, shuttled back to our motel, and turned in with our heads full of images and information and our bellies full of tasty German food.
-- Laura