On The Boot: The Italian Experience

A New Year, A New Blog

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Thu, 27 Jan 2011 17:48:00 +0000

It's a launch! After several delays due to life just happening, "On the Boot: The Italian Experience" is up and running. I hope you will follow me in my quest of finding authentic Italian experiences here in the US as 2011 will be a year of domestic, not international, travel. Of course I will continue to write about experiences in Italy as well.

Please feel free to comment, chime-in or suggest content! I would also welcome guest posts by other bloggers if anyone feels inclined.

Happy New Year!

Leslie

Sardines In A Can

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Sun, 13 Jun 2010 20:22:00 +0000

Returning back to the US is always a very long plane ride. Thank goodness for the endless stream of movies that they were showing to help pass the time away. This is my least favorite part of the transatlantic flight because not only does to signify a return to the “real world” but also because it such a long flight to be crammed in like a sardine!!!

Brent had decided to purchase two small bottle of Limoncello liqueur for friends in the duty-free shop at the Venice airport. Unfortunately, he is "tagged" by security once we reached Atlanta for not checking it through security once we reach the airport. Once you get your bags in Atlanta, they are put through yet another screening upon arrival. Brent failed to note this and the Limoncello, was, unfortunately, in his carry-on bag. Because of this he had to go back to "square one" and check his "liquid" while we patiently waited another 20 minutes. Never a dull moment in Atlanta! The rest of our drive home proved to be uneventful, which was more than welcome by us at this point.

Venice airport view from plane

All The Lovely Crowds - Venice Overnight

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Sat, 12 Jun 2010 20:20:00 +0000

We had previously been advised by Nico that there might be “rush hour” traffic around the Florence area since people still work and there is still school on Saturday, so we decide to leave at 9:30. Our calculation is that we should reach our hotel in Mestre, a town located just outside of Venice, by 1:30 or so in the afternoon. After check-in we plan to take the ten minute (if that) train ride into Venice.

But I am getting ahead of myself. We say our good-byes to Nico and take a one last stroll around the property. It has been such a lovely week at Sant' Antonio and we hope to come back again to stay sometime in the future.

The driving is fine until we hit north of Florence and then there are various traffic delays and problems all along the way. We end up having a quick lunch at one of the numerous Autogrills (a restaurant, fuel & retail complex) that are located through-out the Autostrada (toll highway in Italy). The food is so unremarkable that I can't really remember what we had to eat!

Our hotel in Venice is actually located just outside of historic Venice in an area called Mestre , a borough of Venice. There is a direct train service from here and the total travel time is about ten minutes (if that). Mestre is also a useful location if you don't want to spend a ton of money on a hotel room directly in the center of Venice.

By the time we get to the Hotel Bologna , it is 3:30 in the afternoon and very hot outside. The four of us manage to get checked in and decide to take the train into the center of Venice in about an hour. Our time is very limited and, even though I have been to Venice once before, everyone else has not.

Our train ride into the station is a quick and easy. At first everyone is thrilled that they are actually seeing Venice for the first time. Then we encounter horrendous crowds which get worse as we get to St. Marks, the principal square of piazza of Venice. It is here that the ancient and very much photographed basilica is located in addition to other equally historic structures.

All the lovely people- impossibly crowded during June

No one wants to navigate the Vaporetto system (water bus) so we walk. Our attempts to make our through the crowds is stressful and everyone is very warm and tired. On top of this, someone tries to pick-pocket Brent as we watch a huge cruise ship leave the harbor. Luckily he does not have his wallet in his back pocket but this experience only serves to heighten his dislike of this city.

We slowly make our way back to the train station stopping in various shops along the way; purchasing some lovely Murano glass jewelry for gifts. While shopping , I also find various places to eat but no one is happy with the menus, the prices, or the aggressive staff members standing near the entrance of their trattoria's trying to lure in tourists like us. Basically, it's our own fault for not having planned this short leg of the trip better as I could have gotten several restaurant recommendations from friends that live in Italy. Two hours later we are on our way back to the hotel where everyone but me has an unsatisfying meal... The food is great- it's just all Venetian seafood and I am the only one who wants to have seafood for dinner.

Murano glass necklaces

When we arrive back to our room there is a very unpleasant odor emanating from within. Basically, it smells like a sewer backed up in our room. I immediately take the elevator to the lobby and ask the front desk staff if we can be moved. The staff is more than gracious about this however, the front desk clerk casually tells me this is a problem that some of their rooms have when it the weather gets hot..... Our new room is right across the hall and the three of us spend a couple of hours determining if each of our suitcases will meet the 50 pound weight limit for tomorrow's airline check-in before going to sleep.

Gondola in Venice Canal

Last Day in Tuscany: Fantasia di Mare

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 14:00:00 +0000

Can it really be our last day in Toscana? The original plan was to go to Volterra; however, a small but amicable mutiny erupted as no one wanted to venture further than Montepulciano. Since we had not done a lot in Montepulciano previously during this trip, we elected to walk throughout the town and check out some of the “Twilight” movie-related locations at the top of the town. We climbed to the top of the City Hall to a rooftop viewing area and then went by the music academy and listened to the haunting strains of chamber and symphony music which sounded better nowhere on earth than in the streets of a Tuscan hill town.

We "bumped" into some of our fellow guests that we had met at the dinner at Sant' Antonio. All were enjoying their last day in Toscana close to "home" and buying last minute souvenirs.

Out last lunch in Montepulciano was at the reasonably priced Trattoria di Cagnano. We were lucky enough to snag an outside table overlooking the main Corso. My sister and I usually made a habit to split an antipasti. Today we decided to order something called the Fantasia di Mare, totally forgetting what the translation meant and assuming it was another assortment of mouth watering crostini. Wrong! This enormous seafood extravaganza made its way to our table. It was so large that all the diners in on the patio turned around to watch as it made its progression to our table!!! At this point Carla and Riley had gone to use the restroom . Brent burst out laughing when it was placed in front of me, because my sister and I had also ordered a primi. My sister could not believe it when she came back to the table. By the way, Fantasia di Mare, loosely translated means "fantasy of seafood". Nothing to do with Crostini at all.

This is just the antipasti! More food coming!

After our lunch (which I could not finish) we went back to Sant' Antonio to begin the process of packing. Never a fun thing to do when you don't really want to leave the location you are vacationing in.

For our last dinner- all of us but Riley decide to go over to neighboring Pienza once again for a quick bite. Riley decided she wanted to stay "home" and eat what we had accumulated in the fridge. Honestly, I think she just wanted some alone time away from the adults.

Strolling around Pienza we decided upon a place small place and had each had a wonderful Crespelle ; a wonderful crepe filled with cheese and vegetables and shared crostini with white beans . After dinner it was back to packing for our departure to Venice in the morning.

Pienza, Monticchiello

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 20:16:00 +0000

Our morning hill town adventure began in Pienza today. We had been in Pienza earlier in the week, but very briefly. As mentioned previously it is a foodie paradise and we pick up some tasty provisions for dinner and breakfast during our remaining time in Toscana. We bought several varieties of pecorino cheese and wandered in and out of the shops, admiring the surrounding vistas.

For lunch, we returned to one of our favorite places in the tiny village of Monticchiello called Osteria La Porta . We were privileged to discover it the first year it opened, almost ten years ago. It is run by a woman named Daria who is also a wine sommelier and besides having an outdoor restaurant with a wonderful view; her cuisine is some of the finest we have encountered in Italia! We have always been made to feel very welcome here and today was no different. We lingered over several courses along with wine and dessert and just soak up the sun and ambiance of the terrace overlooking what else but the Val D’Orcia!

Terrace of La Porta

La Porta vista overlooking the Val di' Orcia

Later, Nico gave me a tour of new apartments he will be renting in Montepulciano. There are three, with one still being constructed. Two of the apartments are in the same building; one has two bedrooms a kitchen and living room. Apartments have a computer with wireless access, washing machine, and very modern kitchens complete with dishwashers. The other apartment in the building is unfinished but Nico took me through it anyway. It will be a one bedroom with a panoramic terrace and looks to be very lovely. The third apartment, Le Rughe, is the largest; a four bedroom, four bathroom located in a stand-alone townhouse in another part of town. This would be ideal for larger groups, plus it has a really first-rate gourmet kitchen.

Kitchen of "Le Rughe" apartment

Tonight Brent and I have had dinner for two at Ristorante Le Logge del Vignola in Montepulciano, a restaurant that Nico earlier recommended. Nico has tried to call to make reservations but they do not seem to picking up their phone so we took our chances and went when it opened.

We were happy to be escorted to a very nice table for two my an open french door with a view on an ancient building across from us. The menu is not the standard Tuscan fare. Brent decided to have the tasting menu consisting of cold roasted loin of pig with “Peconzola” cheese ice-cream, Crispy “Cannoli” stuffed with braised wild-boar on a cream of potatoes and a chestnut mousse for dessert.

I decided to go a la carte and order “Semifreddo” of crayfish on a bed of white bean salad, Breast of pigeon and “foie-gras” on a bed of polenta with almonds and Vin Santo. Dessert is a chocolate sampling. I have to say that my pigeon is not as good as the one I had in Assisi and this will forever be my standard.

After dinner we strolled around the streets of this lovely hill town. Actually, I was having a pleasant stroll, however, Brent was less than gracious about my slower-than-usual pace; the direct result of my wearing heels. This would be the only time I attempted to wear them while walking around in Italy. It really wasn't worth the endless griping that I was subjected to from my husband.

*Photo courtesy of Nico Pannevis. Used by permission.

Montalcino & Guest Dinner at Sant’ Antonio

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Wed, 09 Jun 2010 20:25:00 +0000

Today we ventured to Montalcino, a stunning small hill town in the Val d’ Orcia renowned for its masterful Brunello wine. There are plenty of photo opportunities enroute as this valley has some of the most beautiful vistas in all of Tuscany.

Vineyards that surround Montalcino

Montalcino is particularly famous for its production of Brunello wine, although it is not one of our favorites to drink. A bit too ‘oaky’ for my taste. We had a nice time on our last visit to this hill town five years ago, and hoped to repeat the experience.

Earlier in the day I had asked Nico if he could recommend any restaurants in Montalcino and curiously enough, he couldn’t. That sounded kind of ominous, as Nico always has a recommendation for a variety of places and activities. We had lunch previously in Montalcino in our last trip, but the name escapes us so we are forced to wing it!

To our surprise, Montalcino has changed a great deal! Almost every other store front on the main street seems to have been converted into an enoteca. In fact it was hard to find a restaurant that doesn’t involve wine-tasting. While this is understandable due to its reputation for Brunello, it was still surprising to see such a lack of shops. There was a nice leather store and another that sells lovely prints which my sister purchased as a gift. The wonderful bakery is still there and the town still has a lovely view, but it seems to have lost its sleepy charm. The restaurant we eventually settle for was mediocre at best! The pasta was not handmade, the crostini was burnt, Brent’s main dish was served nearly twenty minutes after the rest of us had already finished! Not wanting to make waves, we didn’t send it back. The service was appalling; it was undoubtedly the worst place we have been to for a meal in our entire two weeks in Italy! One humorous side note is that Brent had to use the restroom and thought he found the door near the back of the restaurant; unfortunately, it was the staff dressing room and, when he opened the door, the manager was in the act of changing while talking on his cell phone of course. Mortified, Brent returned to the table where we had a good laugh at his expense!

We left Montalcino right after lunch, disappointed in the overall experience. The pool beckoned Riley back at our apartment and the rest of us decide to just relax and read or siesta. We all look forward to a better dinner this evening.

Pool at Sant'Antonio

At 7:00 we made our way to the common room area at Sant' Antonio (it is just below us in the same building) where we are to feast on a wonderful dinner prepared by Daniela, a friend of Nico's who does catering. Each week, Nico offers the opportunity for a group dinner to his all his guests for a nominal price. This evening we were joined by 15 other guests all from Germany and the Netherlands. We were the only other people, other than one couple from Germany who were not multi-lingual. English seems to be the language du jour. Nico is a wonderful host and the food is sublime. Chicken cacciatore, vegetable risotto, bruschetta and many other dishes abound. Nico was seated on one side of me and a very nice Dutch couple on the other. The conversation was lively and engaging and we close the place down at around midnight. A perfect ending to a good day.

Lovely Orvieto

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Tue, 08 Jun 2010 20:12:00 +0000

We have long intended to visit Orvieto perched high above the Umbrian countryside and have passed it numerous times on the A1 Autostrada. The opportunity presented itself on this trip and we were lit up with anticipation of at last seeing this lovely hill town famous for its magnificent Duomo. To reach Orvieto we decided that it was best to park in the lots below the town and take the funicular up to the town itself. Side note: As we were purchasing tickets for the funicular, Brent (Who is usually very reserved) suddenly greeted a stranger standing nearby. It seems that both of them were wearing similar shirts depicting the band Porcupine Tree. Brent, who is a decidedly enthusiastic fan of this somewhat obscure band, was amazed of the coincidence of seeing another person with the same t-shirt. The French gentleman was taken aback for a second but warmed to the conversation and common passion. Upon exiting the funicular we hopped onto a bus with a huge Japanese tour group and were delivered to the Duomo.

Orvieto Clock Tower

We were quite surprised that there was an entrance fee just to enter the church as this has not been the case previously in any churches we have visited. We also went to see the famous last judgment frescos by Luca Signorelli in the Capella Nuova (new chapel). To view these photos was well-worth the price of admission and I could have spent hours just looking at the details, so awe-inspiring were they. Photography here is strictly forbidden and one of the few places where people actually obey the rules. I have to say that the Duomo is among the most beautiful places that I have visited thus far and completely worth the trip to Orvieto. Additionally, we toured the museums attached to the church, but were slightly less impressed with their contents. The most interesting thing aside from the Duomo was a huge swarm of honey bees next to the museum. The bees had taken over a sign and we watched in amazement as a beekeeper came and was able to secure the swarm in a bee-box (for lack of a better term). I would estimate there were more than 10,000 bees in this swarm!

Beautiful facade of the famous Orvieto Duomo

Lunch in Orvieto was at a simple pizza place and we all had this pizza time around. It was pretty good but nothing about the restaurant really stands out in my mind other than the attentive service and ice cold Coke (Yes, we gave in to comfort on this very warm day!).

The town of Orvieto itself is fairly large with a wide variety of shops and a lovely restored theatre that we got to peek into. It would be a nice place to spend some time as it is a vibrant and bustling place with a bounty of culture and art.

Detail on door of Orvieto Duomo

We returned from our sojourn in the late afternoon and went to explore the small hill town of Montefollonico. It happened to be market day and we discovered a local Porchetta wagon where we purchased our dinner "to go" and brought it pack to our apartment in Sant' Antonio.

Main entry of Montefollonico

Cortona Again…at Long Last

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Mon, 07 Jun 2010 20:10:00 +0000

There was a time when my family and I lived in Garmisch, Germany that we used to visit Cortona every chance we got whenever we were in Tuscany. On our last trip, five years ago, we did not get a chance to visit so this is our first time back in ten years! I am looking forward to seeing what changes, bad or good, have arisen from the popularity of the Frances Mayes books and movie, “Under the Tuscan Sun”.

I had emailed my long-time FB and Slow Travel friend Alessandra to see if she can meet us for lunch, but regrettably she cannot. We planned on stopping by her shop in Cortona anyway to say “Hi”. Our lunch plan is to go to our old favorite restaurant…. Trattoria La Grotta in the hopes that they will still have their wonderful spinach-ricotta gnocchi with tartufo/ or pomodoro sauce. This is something I have dreamed about all these year and have never the taste and lightness of the dish; they are like little fluffy clouds of tasty goodness!

Cortona was definitely busy, but then again, it was June with peak tourist season descending on the town. We were able to find Alessandra’s lovely shop Il Girasole without a problem. Given that it was Monday, she was busy with two vendors in her store, but she made time to hang out with us for a few minutes and had us all laughing with her great sense of humor and charm. It was wonderful to finally meet in person after all these years, but I wish I could have spent more time getting to know her.

Visiting with Alessandra

We strolled around Cortona for a bit, investigating various shops and then made our way to lunch at La Grotta as soon as they opened for lunch; even after the passage of time this unassuming gem never disappoints. We had antipasti misti, and all ordered the aforementioned ricotta and spinach gnocchi either with pomodoro or tartufo sauce; to say we were delighted would be an understatement of epic proportions. Also, we don’t often order chicken when dining out, but La Grotta’s Petti di Pollo is the best chicken….ever! Pounded flat, perfectly seasoned, grilled and dressed only with a squeeze of lemon, Brent’s chicken is (reluctantly) shared with the rest of the table. This is one of the few places we actually each order a dessert and each one is as wonderful as the others. I have to say however, that my favorite was either Brent’s lemon tart or Riley’s ricotta cheesecake to die-for!!!

After lunch we happened upon a leather/handbag store and my sister and I spent much more time (and cash!) here than any stores on the trip. So much so, that Riley came in two or three times to remind us that she and Brent are waiting for us. But the prices are fantastic and the choices are endless so we will be in here awhile. The two of them went on to the park at the beginning of the Roman road and we met them there both with large gold shopping bags in which our purchases now reside.

We then walked about 30 minutes or so out of the park, down the Roman Road and onto a side road so that I can show my sister the original Bramasole a la Frances Mayes. When we reached the property we snapped a few discrete few pictures of this lovely house. There is a car parked in the drive-way so someone is home and we respectfully retreated to rejoin Brent and Riley.

Bramasole

We then trekked back to the car, stopping to rest on a bench in the park as the day was very hot and we need to drink our bottled water. We enjoyed the shade and the view of the Val di Chiana valley below.

Riley in front of fountain in Cortona

Dinner that night was a low-key affair; I was too full to go out and everyone else decided to go out for pizza!!

A Special First Day

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Sun, 06 Jun 2010 20:08:00 +0000

Another sunny day and the weather was now getting significantly warmer. We had only one day where there were showers in the afternoon and we hope our luck holds throughout our time in Tuscany.

Today would be meeting our friend, Pamela Sheldon Johns, who owns the Agriturismo called Poggio Etrusco , runs a cooking school, and writes amazing cookbooks. Brent and I, along with Cal and Earline Fultz, first met her at a Slow Travel dinner this past spring when she was in Atlanta giving a cooking demonstration.

Pamela Sheldon Johns *

Luckily, her place is easy to find and about a ten-minute drive from where we were staying. She greeted us warmly and we got a tour of the lovely four apartments/rooms she rents to guests as well as the ground and pool. She presented us with a nice bottle of wine to take back to our apartment. At the moment, we were fortunate to have three great bottles of wine given as gifts! I had brought her a hard cover book that she had wanted to read and when her husband, Johnny, and daughter, Alaia get back from the errand they were running we presented them with a small present each as well. Alaia had a wonderful shirt to give to Riley. They are very close in age and we hope they will hit it off.

Agriturismo Poggio Etrusco*

We are going to lunch at the farm, Il Casale today. Pamela has arranged this for us to experience. Also joining us are her cousin (name) who has been visiting for the past couple of months and their friend, Vito.

Il Casale produces a variety of products as well as wonderful pecorino and ricotta cheese. Our table was under a tree with a jaw-dropping view of the Val d’ Orcia valley. I was simply in heaven. The food just kept coming; most of it is vegetarian in nature which was a welcome change for us. It was all delicious and it just…..kept… coming as did the white and red wine. We were all having a grand time under the shady grotto enhanced by the breathtaking vista before us into the Val D’Orcia. The girls were happy as were the adults; it was one of those afternoons that you don’t want to see come to an end because you are so contented.

Nearly three hours later, fully sated, we hopped in our two vehicles and set out for Pienza where there was a Sunday organic market in progress. I have been to Pienza a couple of times before and it still remains one of the most beautiful small villages I have seen. Once you hike up a small hill, the town is completely flat, one of the few hill towns like this!! Pienza is famous for its pecorino cheese and there are a variety of shops selling this product as well as other assorted food items. It is an Italian gourmand’s paradise.

Pienza

As if we haven’t had enough to eat, the sight of a gelato shop beckoned us and we enjoyed this outside street side as we watched the tourists go by. The town is very small and we have soon walked the length of it. The big concern at the moment was not to get a parking ticket as parking was scarce and we were on a 30 minute limit.

Gelato !

We leave our friends and hope that we will be able to catch-up with them later in the week. Dinner that night consisted of a light snack at the apartment because we were so full!

*Photos from Pamela Sheldon Johns. Used by permission.

Spello For Lunch and On To Toscana!

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 20:05:00 +0000

Before leaving Tetti di Trevi, Patrizia gave us a tour of the two other vacant apartments. The third was occupied and cannot be shown. Both places are just as charming as ours and we thank her for taking the time to let us view them. We then thanked them for all their wonderful hospitality and vowed to keep in touch. We traveled down the long winding road one last time on onto the highway that connects to Spello. Riley and Carla look forward to seeing the town about which we had told so much as well as having lunch in the Enoteca.

Poppies in Umbria

Spello’s residents were now starting to compose the sketches of their designs on the streets with chalk and we were very careful to step around these etchings as we journeyed up into the town. The town had even more visitors than the day before due to the festival taking place the next day.

We shopped a bit before lunch. A print of Spello for us, some olive wood table accessories for Carla, some souvenirs for friends complete the morning.

At 1:00 we made our way back to the Enoteca where we are greeted like family once again and shown to a reserved table in the courtyard. This time around we did no tasting but order one bottle of vino bianco for the table. The same guests are having lunch with the Angelini family again and greetings are exchanged all around. After lunch I am lucky to be offered a tour of the rental apartment by one of the women staying there and take her up on the offer. It is a place on two floors with an ultra modern, state of the art kitchen, two bedrooms and a bathroom. Perfect for a family!

Pecorino cheese tasting in Spello

Montepulciano from a distance

It was now mid-afternoon and time for our drive into Tuscany. We would be staying at the beautiful converted monastery of Sant’ Antonio to which I have sent some former clients and have struck-up a friendly business relationship with the owner, Nico Panne…. (check). This will be the first time are meeting in person and I look forward to seeing his property first hand and learning more about his business. We arrived at the gates of the property at about 4:00 PM in the afternoon and are “buzzed” into the complex. As we pulled into the property, Nico awaited outside of his office, a small detached building with a welcoming smile on his face. He showed us where to park and ushered us into his office where passports are recorded, a map is given, and restaurant recommendations are made.

Doorway to our Tuscany Rental

He then showed us to our apartment “Casa Franchesci” which is on the second floor of a large stone building. It is even lovelier than the pictures on the website with two nice bedrooms, a separate kitchen and a nice living room with hand painted murals in the walls. In short it is perfect! Right outside our door is a little hedged-in gazebo with a table and chairs which is ideal for sitting outside and just enjoying Tuscany. He left us with two bottles of vino- one sparkling and one red with his best wishes for a great time! Fantastic host so far.

Casa Franchesi

We decided that while Riley and Carla went and checked out the pool, we would go to the local grocery store for some supplies and just in eat in tonight…. (What did we have??? Ravioli and other pasta) After dinner we took a walk through Montepulciano for some gelato and I managed the very steep incline of the main street. This is one of the steepest hill towns in Tuscany and is great if you want to get your daily dose of exercise!

View from our window

We all fell asleep earlier than usual after a rather full day in two regions of Italy and eagerly anticipating our first full day in Tuscany.

Spello- Alone At Last!

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Fri, 04 Jun 2010 19:58:00 +0000

Just kidding, I think. Riley and Carla opted out of touring with us today in favor of sunbathing by the (still-cold) pool. Our plan is to see the hill town just 7 km to the north-Spello. We have long intended to visit Spello, but time has conspired against us in the past. It has always looked very lovely every time we drove by and this time around we decided to actually see it…..

Here's what's happening in lovely Spello....

There seems to be an abundance of parking options in Spello and we were able to secure a place without problem. We arrived just as all the shops were opening. There were flowers… everywhere! In the gardens, the streets, the porches and stoops, hanging in baskets, it is one of the most beautiful sights I have seen. Sunday is also a special day in Spello it is the Infiorata flower festival which is always on Corpus Domini Sunday. Over a period of weeks if not months, the inhabitants of Spello (and many visitors from within Italy and abroad) collect flowers in the mountains to cover the entire streets of Spello with intricate flower images. Some of the pictures are so realistic that they look like actual paintings.The work is starting to commence on the Friday we were there and it is fun to stop and take a peek in the various places where flowers are gathered and people are sorting and arranging them for the displays. We wished we were going to be in Umbria on Sunday for the festival itself.

We decided to stop in at an inviting shop that sells typical Umbrian products and this is the best decision we will make on this day! The owner, Roberto Angelini and his daughter Irene, happen to be in the shop this day. Roberto was handing out samples of typical salumi and ham and urged us to try it. Upon hearing us speak to each other, he asked if we are English or American. When we told him we are American his face breaks into a huge smile and he gestured for his daughter to come over. Roberto speaks very little English and we speak very little Italian but Irene Angelini is fluent in both (And others)! We learn that they have very good friends in the USA and sometimes come to the states to give private wine tastings. Then Irene graciously offers to show us the lovely Enoteca Properzio located a few doors up from the shop. It has an amazing wine inventory which, we learn later, is among the best in Umbria. The property has a very nice vaulted dining room and a lovely interior garden where they serve light lunches to go with the wine. We feel so welcome here that we tell Irene we will be back for lunch in two hours time and set off to explore the rest of this incredibly enchanting town (Our new favorite Umbrian hill town).

When we return for lunch Irene personally greets and escorts us to our garden table. Roberto and his brother, Carlo are sitting at a long table with a family from the US who is staying in one of their apartments and assisting with gathering the flowers for the festival as well. They are having a home-cooked lunch that is part their apartment deal and we meet them a little later and chat. They have a lovely baby named Poppy who charms everyone she sees, including us.

In the interim we order three courses and each course has a different wine to taste. There is the crostini course with delicious toppings, the amazing homemade soup course, and the cheese/jam/honey course. Each is accompanied by a delicious vintage wine. Roberto comes over with a big pot from the kitchen that contains homemade pasta that he is sharing with his guests for lunch and ladles of it into bowls for Brent and me. He also makes sure we are happy and feel at home. It is this personal touch that makes being at this Enoteca such a joy and we wrap up our wine-tasting/luncheon by making another reservation for four at lunchtime the following day enroute to Toscana.

We returned to the apartment in Trevi on the last afternoon and shared our stories of our day in Spello with Riley and Carla. Our last evening in Trevi is spent packing and then having our final dinner in Umbria at the place where we had our first meal in Umbria…… About a half an hour into the meal, who should show up but our wonderful hosts, Fausto and Patrizia. They had stopped by the apartment to see us but now saw why we weren’t there. They have a little present for us- a jar of precious black truffle paste for me and another one for Carla. We chatted with them for awhile until our food arrives and then made plans to see them in the morning before we leave as they were staying the weekend in one of the vacant apartments at the property.

All in all, a perfect last evening in Umbria.

Rome for A Day!

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Thu, 03 Jun 2010 19:53:00 +0000

Crack of dawn at the train station

Yes, it is certainly NOT possible to see Rome in a day, but we got in as much as is humanly possible thanks to a great tour with an expert driver and guide. I arranged for us to have a private eight-hour tour with Tony Polzer, the owner of 3 Millennia Tours in Rome who conducted the tour himself. We also had the services of a mini-van with driver and this came in handy because, although it was cloudy in Rome when we arrived, it was very hot and the air conditioned van offered a welcome respite as well as rapid travel from place to place.

The scope of our travel focused on Ancient & Imperial Rome. We arrived in at 8:58 AM after a relaxing train ride on the super-fast Euro Star line. Brent and Riley both listened to their iPods goofing on the train rideto a song called Trains by their favorite band, Porcupine Tree. I had already pre-reserved and pre-paid for our second class seats- our first train ride in Italy. Nice way to ditch the car in the bigger cities- easy in and easy out! Tony was holding a sign with my name as we approached the main part of the train station. The driver awaited us curbside. First order of business was to purchase advance tickets for the Colosseum. This is something I highly recommend as the lines for the box office were very long. With advance tickets you skip all that and waltz right in (Like Christians to the lions perhaps!!)

Our next stop was the church of San Clemente, a fascinating journey through three different periods of history. In 1857 excavations began under the present basilica, uncovering not only the original, fourth-century basilica directly underneath, but also at an even lower level, the remains of a first-century building.

At this third level there are two separate buildings. One is a brick building in the courtyard of which there is a Mithraic temple of the end of the 2nd century. The other is a more magnificent, rectangular structure, constructed around a courtyard. In the 4th century, the ground-floor rooms of this structure and the courtyard were filled in to the level of the first story to provide the foundations for a church in memory of Pope Clement. The courtyard of this new level became the nave of the church, while the rooms that once overlooked the old courtyard on either side were converted into the side aisles. The completed basilica survived until about 1100 AD when it was found that the building was unsafe and should be abandoned. The fourth-century basilica was then filled in with rubble to the top of its pillars and on this foundation a replica of the old basilica was erected. This is the present church.

Interior photography was not allowed although I saw many people doing this clandestinely both with and without flash!! Here is a great website about the church complete with both interior and exterior photos: San Clemente 12th Century Basilica, 4th Century original basilica and 1st century buildings.

Colisseum

From San Clemente it was on the Colosseum, followed by the Forum , Circus Maximus, Palatine Hill , part of the Appian Way and so forth. We stopped in for a quick lunch and then continued our tour to Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona until our evening train departed Rome (Where the track was the farthest one out from the station (half a kilometer) and was only announced in the last 10 minutes prior to departure; we just made it!).

Forum

We loved our experience in Rome and still look forward to the day when we will be able to spend more time further exploring The Eternal City.

Festa della Republica Day

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 19:50:00 +0000

Today is a national holiday in Italy. We had originally envisioned a day in Norcia and the Monte Sibillini Park but unfortunately, no one but Brent gets out of bed for an early start this morning so we need to go on to plan “B” which is visiting Assisi and the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. The basilica contains the burial place of St. Francis and is one of the most important places of Christian pilgrimage in Umbria, if not all of Italy. The complex dates back to in 1228 and comprises two churches known as the Upper Church and the Lower Church. There is also the crypt where the remains of the saint are interred. In 2000 it was declared a UNESCO world heritage site. The Upper and Lower Churches are decorated with and include works by Cimabue, Giotto, and Pietro Lorenzetti, among others.

Parking in Assisi is extensive due to its popularity as a destination and we easily find parking in an underground garage near the Basilica. We decide to walk around the town itself first and then have lunch. After that we will tour the Basilica itself.

Cannoli's in window of bakery in Assisi

Assisi tends to take on a less touristed feel the further you are from the Basilica. There are various shops selling all kinds of schmaltzy mini-monks along with relics supposedly incorporated with St. Francis himself close to the site. But aside from that, Assisi is a lovely town with much to offer.

We settled on a lunchtime restaurant located off a small piazza down a flight of stairs to a large vaulted dining room serving simple food and pizzas from a large wood-fired oven which smells divine throughout the restaurant. We were seated near a small open window with a view of some of the rooftops and medieval walls of Assisi. Everyone orders a pizza but me! My dish is the best food I have had in Umbria. It is Piccione or pigeon with a hearty sauce placed on a thick slab of toasted bread. The simple and comforting flavor makes my mouth water even writing about it and pigeon becomes my favorite dish to seek out the rest of the trip (although it is not always easy to find). The rest of my family makes their sublimely crispy and flavorful pizzas disappear quickly, but politely declines a taste of my bird (Except for the slightly-braver Brent who loves the flavor but not the idea of pigeon). They tell me these were the best pizzas of the entire trip, no small compliment here!

Riley's Fave food

After lunch we proceed to the Basilica, which is very impressive in structure both inside and out. The fresco's are lovely to behold. While we are in the upper church, Brent and Riley get scared out of their wits as they are talking quietly and walking. Suddenly they hear a stern voice announce through a massive speaker: “Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh…..SILENZIO!” At first, they thought it was directed at them, but it wasn’t. There is a monk who intones this warning to all into a microphone every five minutes in effect making more noise than even the tourists themselves! We were to have a good laugh about that over the next several days although at the time it wasn’t as funny as much as intimidating. Brent, as usual, jokingly over-uses this admonition when we are too loud in the car, at the cottage, or anywhere else – Shhhhhhhhhh…..Silenzio!

The crypt of St. Francis is located below the lower basilica and is filled with the very devout who pray and touch his tomb. We filed past respectfully with our own reflections but did not linger long as there are others waiting to do the same. Once back outside the Basilica, we took more pictures and then set off back to Trevi in our car. The next day was to be an early day as we were scheduled to take the train from Spoleto to Rome and all retired relatively early that evening.

Cooking With Letizia Mattiacci in Assisi

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Tue, 01 Jun 2010 19:48:00 +0000

Cooking school fun!

I have been corresponding with Letizia Mattiacci via email for the past few years but had never met her in person. Letizia owns an Agriturismo called Alla Madonna Del Piatto, located high in the hills above Assisi. I usually recommend her cooking class to my clients staying in either Tuscany or Umbria and everyone has come back to me with rave reviews regarding their wonderful experience. So today, after reserving our spots several months in advance, we will all finally experience Letizia’s fabulous cooking class ourselves.

The day starts off at 10:00 AM with a meeting at the shop “Terra Umbra” in the town of Santa Maria Degli Angeli which is essentially the “lower” town of Assisi. Once here we will taste and learn about a variety of local products. The shop, run by the sure hand of Barbara, is one of the loveliest I have been in and the experience was very informative and fun!! Especially the tasting part. We had a great time tasting various kinds of olive oil, truffles, meat and cheese while Letizia explained the uses, differences and origins of each product. We then vote on which ones we want to have for our antipasti! Joining us for the day are Linda from California and Bob & Chrissie from California! Chrissie is originally from Thailand so she and Brent had a lot to chat about as Brent spent considerable time in northern Thailand in 1989. Bob was studying the Italian language in Perugia for one month. Linda and her husband (who is not with her for the lesson) were bicycling their way around Umbria. Very fun and friendly people with whom to share the day!

Riley hard at work making pasta!

After the tasting, we follow Letizia back to her house located about 8 kilometers in the hills behind Assisi. She also runs an Agriturismo with half a dozen rooms for rent. The views from her property are simply stunning. We relaxed out on the terrace while Letizia set up her kitchen and brought out wine. I fall in love with her dog, Google, who is very friendly and likes to “hang-out” with the guests. On the menu were two types of fresh pasta- strangozzi and parpardelle with porcini sauce and lemon butter sauce, respectively. We also make pana cotta and Brent gets to fry up fresh sage leaves and zucchini blossoms, both coated in a tempura-like batter. Yum!! Once we have finished all this wonderful cooking we get to partake in our feast out on the terrace for a couple of relaxing hours which was finished with homemade Limoncello, Letizia’s mother’s recipe. Our three other cooking partners depart the Agriturismo by taxi. Letizia graciously gives us a tour of some of the rooms for her bed and breakfast in case I would like to recommend them to future clients. There are some lovely rooms with outstanding rooms as well as a common area where breakfast is served each morning. Staying here would be very comfortable and the hostess is most gracious. Remember, a car would be needed.

The fruit of our cooking labors- lunch!

We make our way back to our cottage and finish the day with a plate of antipasto and a long walk around the back roads above Trevi.

Winding road high above Trevi that leads to our rental

We find Narni (This time)!

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Mon, 31 May 2010 19:42:00 +0000

There is a back story to this adventure. Five years ago, we set out to visit both Amelia and Narni in the less traveled southern Umbria region but took a wrong turn and missed Narni completely. Instead we spent the morning in Amelia, which was on the original itinerary but disappointing overall.
Flash forward to 2010. We found the correct sign and made the turn arriving in Narni mid-morning. This is a town not frequented by tourists unless they want to explore the road less traveled. Anyway, we were not disappointed by this experience. Although grittier in appearance and less picture-perfect then some of its northern neighbors, it is very medieval in feel and the town doesn’t really seem to care whether it has tourists or not, which, if you are not self-sufficient, could be a bad thing. Example #1 – arrive in central tourist info to get more info and perhaps a map. It is connected to a plodding municipal office but when you step into the tourist section no one greets you because save a few haphazard piles of maps and brochures. The central museum also looked interesting, but again there was not a single person manning the entrance desk where they charge a small admission fee so we gave it a pass.

Courtyard of Narni Hotel

Narni, perched atop an expansive cliff, has a centro storico reached via an elevator or a funicular from the main road. We toured several churches, one complete with a mummified nun and would have like to experience the Narni Sotteranea (the catacombs of Narni) but the times did not correspond with our itinerary. The only hotel in the historic district, La Loggia was our luncheon choice and did not disappoint. We had a nice table set in an interior courtyard of the hotel. Everyone but me got homemade pasta with cinghiale sauce (wild boar). I opted for the strongozzi with garlic, oil, and fresh anchovies. While certainly not lacking in the garlic department, it was a wonderful dish and something completely different from the usual truffle laden dishes we had been seeing on menus in Umbria. A rather large and immaculately dressed gentleman of apparent importance was seated at a table near ours and was feasting on several courses. Apparently, his fine suit, multiple rings and necklaces, combined with his air of importance, inspired Riley to whisper, “Is he a mafia Don?” “Either that or the Mayor,” Brent replied.

A piazza in Narni

After lunch we detoured to the Roman ruins of Carsulae which are quite lovely and not very touristed, given their somewhat remote location. Riley absolutely despises this attraction as she thinks she saw a snake lurking just off the path during our last visit. This time was no different; she is just five years older! Carsulae, probably had its origins as a rest stop and watering place for travelers, traders and soldiers, but most historians fix the town's official founding to about 300 BC. Carsulae's growth into a major town only took place, however, with the building of the ancient Roman road, the via Flaminia, in 220-219-BC during the reign of Emperor Augustus,. It was during his reign that a number of major works, including the amphitheatre, most of the forum, and a marble-clad arch (now called the Arch of San Damiano) at the north entrance were built. It bucolic setting, its large complex of mineralized thermal baths, theatres, temples and other public amenities, attracted "tourists" from Rome. Nothing but ruins remains of Carsulae today, which was abandoned, and never resettled. The most “recent” building is that of the church of San Damiano thought to be built in about the 4th or 5th century, at the southerly entrance to Carsulae, and it is still standing today.

Church at Carsulae

Departing Carsulae, we proceeded by back roads and through several rain showers to the supermarket at the mall near Trevi. Yes, you read correctly, the mall. It is an enclosed mall very much like you would see in the states but with a large grocery store integrated into the mall itself. We shopped for our dinner and rest of our weekly provisions. It is amazing to be in an Italian mall, the first one we have found. Purchased items to make an antipasto plate as we are well full from our lunch and the weather outside has turned cold and rainy. A perfect evening to dine in and catch up on our travel journals, reading and wine-drinking.

Carsulae Ruins

Around Trevi and on to Spoleto

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Sun, 30 May 2010 19:37:00 +0000

The birds arise first on the hill above Trevi and wake us with their strident chirping, but we are in Italy so this small inconvenience is easily accommodated. Most of us (except my husband Brent) managed to sleep in until 9am and then enjoyed a breakfast of fresh eggs, buffalo mozzarella and olive oil bread. Brent also decided to fry some pancetta as well (There is nothing that cannot be improved by the addition of bacon as the saying goes!).

Big picture window in living room of Tetti di Trevi apartment

Patrizia and Fausto stayed in an empty apartment for the weekend but during the week they live in Foligno located in valley below. They were able to give us a great local restaurant recommendation for lunch as well as festival and winery suggestions. Patrizia even loaned me her laptop for the rest of the weekend when it became clear I was not going to be able to get wireless on my computer with downloading a complex system from Vodaphone . She also proceeded to secure the lunch reservation for us at Il Poggio. They were also going to the same restaurant to meet a friend for lunch.

Leslie's Ravioli at Il Poggio

Parking was at a premium and Brent had decided to drop us off while he found alternate parking around the property, however, Patrizia and Fausto had anticipated that Sunday lunch would be crowded and had saved us a parking spot. Brent however, was already down the drive way and had taken a drive once around the block before we were able to flag him down with the news. The restaurant had reserved us a nice table on the patio where we proceeded to have our standard two-hour Italian lunch. This time around there were grilled vegetables, assorted cheese with hams and honey, Bruschetta ai Tartufo (more truffles), Bruschetta misto (assortment) and cheese ravioli with shrimp and zucchini, and steak with yet more black truffles. I seem to remember Riley having some sort of desserts as well. Of course, the house vino bianco was outstanding.

Leslie's Bruschetta appetizer at Il Poggio

Brent's beef with black truffles

After lunch we decided to spend some time in Spoleto, a larger hill town about twenty minutes south of our location. We had been to Spoleto before and had so enjoyed our day-trip there that we anticipated seeing it again. It soon became apparent that Spoleto was very crowded with LOTS of people because a parade/festival to Lucretia Borgia was underway. Not quite sure why Lucretia would merit a festival as she and her family had a terrible reputation for poisoning their adversaries in the middle ages, but we went along with it just the same. Seeing all the participants walking solemnly in the parade in beautiful costumes was amazing. After the parade went by we s-l-o-w-l-y made our way to the top of this very steep hill town until we reached the panoramic bridge built on the remains of a roman aqueduct in the…… century. Walking across the bridge span is a chance to take some truly panoramic photos and enjoy the view. As we walked back down through Spoleto towards our parking spot we noticed a huge crowd of people, most of them male, at the entrance of town. Turns out a very attractive woman was modeling, of all things, shoes outside of a store but I guarantee none of her admirers were purchasing women’s shoes. Needless, to say Brent needed a friendly nudge to move on!!!

Festival in Spoleto

We ended the day with another dinner in Trevi itself. “Maggiolini” has a nice atmosphere with outstanding meat but nothing much else and there pasta was not in any way homemade. I would only suggest a visit if you order the grilled meats (lamb, pork, beef).

Ancient Fountain in Spoleto

The plane (Among other things) has finally landed

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Sat, 29 May 2010 18:12:00 +0000

Everything went smoothly today and we met my sister, Carla, who joined us on our adventure. She had a connecting flight in Paris and it landed about thirty minutes after us. Venice Marco Polo airport is pretty compact and easy to navigate. We walked over to the car rental parking to pick-up our compact station wagon and found a very impressive Mercedes in the assigned space. Unfortunately, it was not ours because “our” car was parked in a different space then indicated. So much for my free upgrade idea! The compact Ford Focus wagon fit four normal-sized suitcases, backpacks and a laptop without a problem in the rear cargo space. The problem arose two minutes into our ride out of the airport when suddenly we felt a rush of air sweep through the car and wind whipping at our hair. Carla informed us that the hatch had opened and some of our luggage had taken a trip, about oh, a mile or so back. To my horror, I discovered that one of the pieces of luggage was my LAPTOP (Along with Brent’s suitcase)!!! Brent quickly made a not-quite-legal turn on the roundabout while Riley and Carla clutched the remaining bags in the back. A nice woman pulled up along-side the fallen bag/computer and was in the process of gently getting them out of the road and onto the sidewalk. We thanked her profusely. Luckily my laptop sustained no damage whatsoever, either internally or externally we went on our way. The drive to Trevi, Umbria took about four and a half hours due to slight directional miscue toward Ravenna.

The "infamous" Ford Focus Wagon with Hatch that "Un-hatched"

We arrived in Trevi in the mid-afternoon and made our way 2-3 Kilometers above this picturesque hill town. The owners, Patrizia and Fausto had given us their cell phone number and had encouraged us to call them upon reaching Trevi, but, having stayed the area five years before, Brent was pretty confident that finding our apartment rental was not going to be a problem, because, hey, he is a former Army Aviator, right? Directionally challenged in not in his vocabulary (except for the aforementioned Ravenna wrong turn) I don’t think we had envisioned the steep switchbacks involved in the climb up to Tetti di Trevi which is why they offered to meet us in Trevi. Finally, we arrived in front of what looked to be the place but it was hard to tell since nothing was clearly marked or signposted and siesta was in full swing. Brent decided to call on the phone and Patrizia asked where we were, fully expecting us to be in the village of Trevi itself. Brent could actually hear her voice on the phone and through the air, so close were we to her house. Patrizia was very surprised to hear that we were right outside the property came out immediately offering a warm “Buona Sera!” They eventually showed us a better way into the property as well as a somewhat less steep parking place.

View from apartment at Tetti di Trevi

Patrizia and Fausto anticipated the effects of our jet-lag as well as our drive from Venice and had stocked the refrigerator with a variety of food: fresh eggs, vegetables, breads, pasta, sauce, water, juice, and jams. This was a nice surprise which lasted almost the entire week! However, we knew we needed to stay awake for a couple more hours at least to acclimate ourselves to the time zone. So, after unpacking, we decided to head back down the “hill” and have dinner at one of our favorite places in Trevi, “La Posta Vecchia”. We were seated outside of the restaurant on the lovely little main square of the town so that we could people watch a bit, though Trevi is one of the least touristed hill towns of the region and there weren’t that many people to watch! But we thoroughly enjoyed our dinner of Strangozzi ai Tartufo (local pasta with black truffles) and Parpadelle ai Cinghiale (flat noodle with wild boar sauce). We also shared the house bruschetta and pecorino cheese with honey. The house Trebbiano was another story. A very dry local wine which we never again ordered during our stay.

The very lovely but sleepy hill town of Trevi.

After dinner we strolled through the beautifully lit alleys and hillside streets, then made our way back to the rental cottage where we admired the view of twinkling stars and lights across the valley from our panoramic terrace, and finally exhausted surrendered to the sandman at about 10:30 PM. Pretty good run for jet-lagged travelers as it was 4:30 am back in the States.

Post - Prelude to a Trip

noreply@blogger.com (Leslie Erickson) — Fri, 28 May 2010 17:51:00 +0000

After a five-year absence from traveling in Europe, our life finally aligned so that my family and I (husband, daughter & sister) could embark upon a two-week trip to Italia May 28- June 13th. While my original intention was to blog while traveling, it quickly became clear that I would rather immerse myself in the experience of travel rather than being shackled to my computer composing a blog entry each day. Good wine may have been a
‘motivator’ to relax and soak up the comforts of Umbria and Toscana!