Materials:

• 1 x 10″ x 6′ Oak
• 1/4″ plywood
• Wood filler
• Wood stain
• Polyurethane
• Handles
• Plants
• 10×14″ baking tray
• Rocks

Tools

• Table saw
• Compound miter saw
• Pin nailer
• Wood Glue
• Sandpaper
• Drill / driver

Step 1: Rip the 1x to Size

I started this project by ripping the 1 x 10″ Oak board in half on my table saw. Since 1 x 10″ actually measures 3/4 x 9-1/4″, I ended up with two pieces measuring 4-5/8″ wide.

Editors Note: A few weeks back a reader noticed that I wasn’t using the blade guard on my table saw. Even though I find it cumbersome, I’ve changed my ways and use the guard and riving knife every time now.

Step 2: Route a Dado

Using a 1/4″ straight bit, I routed a groove just off the cut edge (bottom) on each board. I checked the fit with my piece of plywood, and found it was suitably snug.

Step 3: Bevel Cut the Bottom

The sides of this planter all flare out, and to achieve that, I ran the boards through my table saw again with a 10° bevel.

Step 4: Cut the Plywood to Size

I’ve found in the past that making all my cuts, and then testing them out doesn’t always work. This time I cut my plywood to size (10-1/2″ x 16″) first. Next, I’ll measure the length for each side.

When I cut the plywood, I kept the 10° bevel, even though it probably doesn’t make much difference.

Step 5: Cut the Sides to Length

I measured the plywood and added a little extra to account for the joint before cutting the sides. Each cut was a 45° miter (+/-) and a 10° bevel (+/-). At their longest point (along the top), here are the dimensions for the sides:

• 13-5/8″
• 19-1/4″

Step 6: Glue and Nail Opposite Corners

I glued and pin nailed opposite corners to make it easier to fit together. If you’ve ever worked with wood glue, you know the importance of wiping away the excess before it dries, and I used a wet paper towel immediately after nailing.

Step 7: Glue and Nail Remaining Corners

I spread glue in the corners and in the dado for the plywood bottom. Fitting it all together, I pin nailed the remaining corners.

Step 8: Add Wood Filler

Even though the joints were pretty tight, some still hairline gaps, and I used wood filler to make the joints look perfect. Unfortunately, I neglected to take a picture of the joints after the wood filler.

Step 9: Sand Smooth

At this point I turned the planter over to Jocie, and she began working by sanding all the surfaces smooth with 180 grit sandpaper. Wipe with a damp rag to remove dust and debris.

Step 10: Stain the Wood

We had some tinted wood stain from a previous project, and Jocie mixed some of the yellow and blue to make teal. She applied two coats to give it a nice, uniform look.

Step 11: Add a Clear Coat

To protect the wood, Jocie applied two coats of urethane. Lightly sand in between coats so remove dried, excess urethane. If sanding, wipe clear with damp cloth (not a paper towel which will leave remnants).

Step 12: Install Handles

Jocie wanted handles for he herb garden so it can be used year round and brought in to a sunny window when its cold. Jocie picked up some cabinet pulls, and I installed them centered on the short sides. These are bottom of the line, Walmart cheapos, but you could certainly fancy it up with more decorative handles from your local Big Orange.

Step 13: Put Plants on Baking Tray

Jocie put all the plants on a baking tray to further protect the planter from dirt and water.

Step 14: Organize Plants

Jocie bought six different herbs for the planter: Oregano, Sage, Mint, Basil, Stevia and Thyme. She doesn’t know much about herbs but thought these we good cooking basics, except Stevia which just seemed a fun addition.

Step 15: Place Rocks

Izzie, Lucy and I went on a walk through the neighborhood to find some medium-sized rocks. We brought home a bucket full and cleaned them off with the hose. In this picture you see Jocie organizing them around the plants. The rocks add a good bit of weight to the planter, but it is definitely sturdy and still easy to carry.

Finished

I think the planter looks darn good, and I’m proud of the finished product.

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

How it Works

Project Rewards (click here for full details) is a reader appreciation program, and for a shot at all these freebies, you need to:

• Register: All you have to do is pick a username and provide an email address, and you’re all set to start earning Project Points. There is no cost, and we never distribute your info for any reason. Register here.
• Visit and Comment: You earn Project Points (pp) for various actions on our site, like logging in (worth 2pp once/day), or by leaving a valid comment on an article (worth 5pp /valid comment).
• Spend Points: You spend Project Points in our Rewards Center, which includes auctions for home improvement gift cards, tools, services, crafts and more.

The Goods

Martha Stewart Paint Set (45pp) | Fiskars Craft Scissors (35pp) | Wooden Owl Kit (45pp)

Channellock Flush Cutter (60pp) | Ridgid 12v Set (105pp) | Stanley 30′ Tape Measure (35pp)

Racor Bike & Ladder Lift (50pp) | Heavy Duty Work Gloves (40pp) | True Value Swift Driver (65pp)

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

If you enjoy our Pro-Follows and learning how professional contractors complete home improvement jobs, subscribe to our email or RSS feeds and never miss an update. Every Pro-Follow comes to you from a real job site, chock full of real pro tips. Check out our Project Guides to see all the completed how-tos.

Subfloor

It’s very important to have a properly prepared subfloor because otherwise, the tile will crack and come loose in no time. The goal is to provide a flat surface with minimal deflection (bounciness). You can reduce deflection by adding extra layers of underlayment like plywood or installing additional supports under the floor.

Many professional tilers (like Rick) can judge a floor’s deflection by feel alone. For the rest of us, the Tile Council of America offers a standard formula called L/360.

L/360
Divide the total span of the floor joists (in inches) by 360 for the maximum amount the floor can give in the middle under a live load of 40 lb./sq. ft., plus any long-term deflection due to the weight of the floor.

For example, the maximum deflection for a joist span of 15′ is [15 * 12] / 360 = 1/2″.

This formula is useful for most ceramic, porcelain, and hard stone. For soft-stone tile, such as limestone or light marble, the L-720 formula applies (cutting the maximum allowable deflection in half).

When possible, Rick likes to verify the subfloor framing, and for joists spaced more than 16″ oc, he suggests using Schluter Ditra which is a waterproof, uncoupling membrane. He also targets at least a 1-1/8″ thick subfloor. Steve’s crew achieved that by installing the Fir plywood which is an acceptable underlayment even though Rick prefers concrete board.

Plan Layout

Before starting, Steve spoke with the homeowner about various tile layouts. With that input, Steve can approximate the location of features like the shower shelves and glass listello.

Pro-Talk: A listello is a narrow, decorative tile that add visual interest to a wall.

Pro-Tip: Shower heads are roughly 82″ off the shower pan, and most layouts avoid running decorative tile at that height.

For the floor, installers often center a tile in the doorway. Steve maps out the floor and finds that a staggered layout works well because it avoids thin, small tiles around the perimeter. If that hadn’t been the case, they would have shifted the layout (perhaps centering a grout line in the doorway).

Materials

• Thinset mortar (see below)
• Tile mastic (see below)
• Mesh cement board tape (see below)
• Tile shims
• Un-sanded grout
• Sanded grout
• Caulk (see below)
• Tile (see below)

Thinset mortar
For this install, Rick and his crew are using a modified thinset mortar which has a latex additive that makes it stickier and stronger. Modified thinset is often used for tiling walls, over plywood for better adhesion, high-traffic areas and spaces that will get wet (like a shower). Thinset comes in a powder form and is usually mixed with water.

Mastic
Mastic is an organic adhesive, and it’s not suitable for direct contact with water. For that reason, Rick and his crew only use it on the top-most courses in the shower. Mastic comes premixed in a tub.

Pro-Tip: Rick and his crew say that using mastic for floor tile is one of the most common do-it-yourselfer mistakes.

Mesh cement board tape
The mesh tape used for drywall will deteriorate in contact with concrete board so it’s important to use an alkali-resistant tape. Plus, concrete board tape is stronger and mold resistant.

Caulk
Rick is using an un-sanded siliconized acrylic caulk that matches the color of the grout.

Tile
Porcelain and ceramic are the two most popular options for tile. Porcelain is denser and heavier which makes it tougher to cut and more difficult for wall installations. Regardless of the type, tiles can vary in size up to 1/16″ (even expensive tile from reputable dealers).

Tools

• Tile cutter (see below)
• Nippers (see below)
• Level
• 3/8″ notched trowels
• Grinder
• Utility knife
• Buckets
• Mixing Paddle
• Corded drill
• Sponges
• Diamond hand pad
• Saw or multitool

Tile cutter
This is a relatively straight-forward tile job, and Rick and his crew used a tile cutter to score and snap all the tiles. They didn’t need to break out a tile saw.

Nippers
Nippers are used to chew off pieces of tile, and they are especially useful for making curved cuts. A good pair of nippers is indispensable, and some of these guys have been using the same pair of nippers for 20+ years.

Diamond hand pad
A diamond hand pad is used for cleaning up a cut edge, and they used it after every cut.

Check Walls

Rick started the day by checking all the walls. Rarely are walls and corners square, and Rick wanted to know where the problem areas would be. He found that some of the walls were as much as a 1/4″ off plumb.

Mark Wall Center

Starting on the side wall, he marked a center line, and this is where he will start laying tile.

Tape Joints

Rick covered all the joints with mesh concrete board tape including the joint between the concrete board and shower pan.

Mix Thinset

Next, he mixed the thinset in a bucket with a mixing paddle, and he mixed it thick enough that it wouldn’t slide down the wall.

Cover Joints

Rick covered all the joints with a layer of thinset, and he covered the drywall mud to ensure good adhesion.

Mark Spread Line

Starting from the shower pan and measuring up the height of two tiles, Rick marked a level, spread line that will serve as a guide for spreading thinset and laying tile.

Spread Thinset

Rick spread the thinset using a 3/8″ notched trowel right up to (but not covering) the spread line.

Lay Tile

Starting at his center line and working into the corners, Rick laid two rows of tile. Beginning in the center is important because it allows him to better conceal cut edges in the corners and it ensures a symmetrical layout.

Rick pushed each tile firmly into the thinset, ensuring good coverage. He lined up all the corners and was mindful to keep all the tiles at the same depth.

Pro-Tip: Check each tile for chips or defects, and clearly mark the defect before setting the tile aside.

Since Rick knew the areas where the walls were not square, he “cheated” a little by opening up the joints slightly to account for the difference.

Add Shims

Rick used the red shims to align the tiles and make sure each row stayed level. At times he would remove a tile to add extra thinset to keep everything nice and even.

Cut to Size

To cut tiles Rick would scribe a line with his pencil and either use nippers or the cutter to trim the tile.

The tile cutter has a small blade that scores the front of the tile. The wings on either side of the cutter pivot allowing you to press down until the tile snaps.

After each cut (with the cutter or nippers), the guys would clean up the cut edge with the diamond pad.

Check For Level

Rick would check on last time for level before moving on to the next section. If he found anything out of line, he would shift the tiles and/or place more shims.

Move to Next Section

This picture shows how Rick continued that same spread line to the next section.

Pro-Talk: Back-buttering refers to the process of using the flat side of a trowel to skim coat the backside of a tile, and this is another technique to ensure good coverage.

For the front and back of the shower Rick started at the corner and worked toward the inside corner to better conceal cut edges.

Pro-Talk: Bullnose refers to a rounded edge tile often used as a border because it does not expose a cut end.

Shower Shelves

Incorporating shelves into the shower is a nice feature, and Rick started the process by notching the shelf with a grinder. He cut a shallow notch just wider than the width of a tile.

Next, he scribed the outline of the shelf and used that to cut the wall tile.

Next, Rick put the shelf in place with a gentle slant to prevent water from pooling.

Sponge Clean

As he worked, Rick often cleaned the tile face with a sponge, and he cleaned his hands frequently too.

Cutting Holes

Rick and his crew had to cut holes in the tile for things like the shower controls. To do this, they started by measuring the location of the hole.

Rick used a grinder to carefully cut a square-shaped hole, starting on the face of the tile, and then completing the cut from the backside of the tile.

Decorative Stripping

It’s common to add a listello or decorative stripping to make a wall of tile more appealing, and the homeowners have opted for a glass tile stripe. Rick cut the mesh backing to create pieces four rows high.

At this point, Rick and his crew could not continue with the wall tile until the thinset had cured overnight. Otherwise, the glass tiles would shift as new tiles were laid above them.

Floor Tile

Trim Door Jamb

While the walls dried, Rick and his crew started on the floors, and they began by trimming the door jambs. They used a tile to mark the height, and then cut the jamb with a handsaw.

The guys also scraped away the old mortar from underneath the threshold.

Clean Floor

Rick used a sponge to clean the floors which had the added benefit of wetting the plywood, and that helps ensure a good bond.

Mark Guide Lines

He traced the outline of the air register and measured a spread line off the exterior wall.

Spread Thinset

Just like with the walls, Rick spread thinset right up to his line using a notched trowel.

Lay Tile

Floor tiles are usually separated with spacers to ensure a consistent joint. Rick doesn’t use spacers, and instead he visually sets the tile.

Pro-Tip: Leave a very small joint between the tile and the shower pan. Otherwise, even slight movement can create an irritating, squeaky noise.

Pro-Tip: Remove excess thinset that has oozed up between the tiles. You want the thinset at least 1/8″ below the surface of the tile to make room for grout.

Finish Tiling Shower

The next day, a member of Rick’s crew finished tiling the shower walls, and for the upper courses of tile he used mastic instead of thinset.

Baseboard Tile

He also added a bullnose tile along the wall to act as a baseboard. For the bullnose, he back-buttered each piece rather than trying to spread mastic in such a small area.

Grout

After the tile had set, one of Rick’s crew grouted the tile. For the shower walls, they used a unsanded grout, and they used a sanded grout for the floor.

Pro-Tip: Use sanded grout for grout joints 1/8″ or bigger and non sanded grout for smaller joints.

They packed the grout tightly into the joints using a grout trowel, scraping away as much excess as possible. After the grout set up, he wiped the tile with a damp sponge, cleaning it often. He also caulked all the corners of the shower (between walls, walls and ceiling, around shower pan).

Pro-Tip: Grout all the tile at the same time. Otherwise, you may see a slight color variation due to moisture differences.

Finished

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

• Day 1: Demolition
• Day 2: Plumbing, Electric and Concrete Board

In the introduction to this project, I mentioned that moving the bathroom fan was part of the plan. The original fan was situated on the opposite side of the shower and vented into the attic space. Steve wanted to relocate the fan so that it more effectively pulls moisture from the room, and he wanted to vent it out through a nearby soffit.

Electric

When the electrician came through on Day 2, he was able to reroute the electric from the original fan to the new location without pulling any new wires. This was really fortunate because that meant the wall switch was all ready to go.

If that had not been the case, the electrician would have needed to fish a new cable (14/2 NM-B) from the switch to the new fan and either run a new circuit or (more likely) extend an existing circuit.

Materials

• Bathroom fan kit (fan, ductwork connections, soffit cover, fan cover)
• 4″ flexible ductwork
• Aluminum tape
• Wire connector and wire nuts

Tools

• Drywall saw
• Drill / driver
• Hole saw
• Utility knife
• Wire strippers
• Pliers
• Ladder

Step 1: Cut the Hole

The guys provided the general location for the electrician to pull the wires. To install the fan, they needed to enlarge the hole, and they wanted the final location adjacent to a stud for mounting the fan.

After measuring the fan, they marked lines and cut out the drywall.

Step 2: Trim Duct to Length

The guys ran 4″ flexible duct between the fan and the soffit, cutting it to length.

Pro-Tip: Cut the ductwork only as long as needed. While leaving extra length may help during the installation, your bathroom fan will have to work harder to move air through.

The bathroom fan kit includes a coupler between the fan and the ductwork, and they secured the ductwork with aluminum tape.

Step 3: Run the Ductwork

Fortunately, the soffit is a short distant away, and after shifting a little insulation, they can push the ductwork through. Had that not been the case, they would have needed to go into the attic to run the ductwork.

Pro-Tip: Run the ductwork as straight as possible to avoid restricting air flow.

Pro-Tip: It’s best to run bathroom vent ductwork through conditioned space to prevent the moisture-rich air from condensing inside the ductwork.

Step 4: Make the Soffit Connection and Install the Cover

This bathroom vent kit includes a soffit cover with slats that open as the air is forced out.

Using a hole saw, they cut a 4″ hole through the soffit.

Pulling the ductwork to the opening, they secured it in place with a combination of plastic clips (included in the kit) and aluminum tape.

Next, they screwed the soffit cover in place.

Step 5: Wire Bathroom Fan

One corner of the fan features a removable plate with a knock-out, and behind that plate are the hot and neutral wires.

After removing the knock-out, Steve’s crew pushed a plastic wire connector in place and fed the wires through.

They connected the bare copper wire to the ground screw, and they paired the black wires together and the white wires together.

With all the connections made, they screwed the metal plate back in place.

Step 6: Mount the Fan

After making the hole a little bit larger, Steve’s crew pushed the fan into place alongside the stud. This fan included a few metal fins to help hold it in place, and the guys drove screws into the adjacent stud.

Step 7: Install Fan Cover

The last step for this install was to hang the fan cover which is secured with a pair of metal hooks.

Finished

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

Materials

• Laminate flooring (see below)
• Plastic underlayment (see below)
• Shoe molding
• Molding adhesive
• Thresholds

Laminate flooring: Laminate flooring in an engineered product consisting of a durable laminate surface, a wood based core and a backing. This install is utilizing Pergo brand flooring which features interlocking tongues and grooves that snap together and a pre-attached foam underlayment for sound reduction.

Plastic underlayment: This floor is being installed over a concrete subfloor, and since concrete is constantly releasing moisture, a vapor barrier is necessary. The guys are using a 6-mil. resin polyethylene film to provide that barrier.

Tools

• Miter saw
• Table saw
• Jig saw
• Coping saw
• Utility knife
• Level
• Hammer or rubber mallet
• Pry bar
• Multitool or flush-cut saw
• Finish nail gun
• Compressor

These are the tools that were used for this particular install; however, some tools are interchangeable. For instance, you can use a hammer and nail-set instead of a finish nail gun and compressor.

Preparing the Subfloor

Before Steve’s crew began laying the floor boards, they started by checking the subfloor with a level. It’s important that the concrete is relatively flat (less than 3/16″ over 10′), without humps or voids. Fortunately, this subfloor is in good shape. If that were not the case, the guys would have needed to fill low areas and/or grind down high areas.

Pro-Tip: Self-leveling cement is a great way to address an uneven subfloor. Check out Fred’s experience on his article about using self-leveling cement over a concrete slab.

Steve’s crew also carefully cleaned the subfloor to remove dirt and debris.

Acclimate Flooring

Even though laminate flooring is an engineered product, it still expands and contracts with changes in moisture. For that reason, it’s important to acclimate the flooring before installing. Otherwise, the floor may buckle or gaps may appear. Pergo indicates to leave unopened boxes flat on the ground for 48 – 96 hours prior to installation.

Step 1: Plan and Mark Guidelines

Since most spaces are not 100% square, it’s important to create guides so that the planks stay parallel and look uniform. Even though the guys will start laying boards along an exterior wall, the interior wall is most visible, and it’s from the interior wall that they measure. After marking out an equal length, Steve’s crew uses an 8′ level to scribe a straight line that will serve as the starting point.

Since the floor will be covered with plastic, they transferred these marks to the adjacent baseboard and framing.

Step 2: Lay Plastic Sheeting

Next, Steve’s crew unrolled the plastic sheeting, running it tight against the walls. Each course overlapped by a couple of inches, and the sheeting included an adhesive strip for joining subsequent rows.

Step 3: Lay the First Row

The first row of this installation was unique because the guys were working around a utility sink, a dryer and some custom shelving. For that reason, they locked a few rows together before moving them into place using their guide marks. They oriented the boards with the tongue-side against the wall, and that made laying the last row easier. If you’re looking closely, you’ll notice that the first row of planks has been cut with a table saw to about 1/2 the width. The guys did this so that the last row of planks was a moderate width.

It’s important to maintain a 1/4″ gap around the entire perimeter of the floor to allow for expansion and contraction, and the gap underneath the baseboard will provide that space.

Steve’s crew used a miter saw to trim planks to length, working to avoid pieces shorter than 10″ or so. They also took care to space out the joints between adjacent rows.

Step 4: Continue Laying Boards

Steve’s crew continued laying the planks, securely locking them together and unrolling more plastic underlayment as necessary. Since this is a floating floor, the boards can inadvertently shift so Steve’s crew frequently checked to ensure the boards will still parallel with the end wall

Step 4a: Working Through Doors

At doorways, the guys used a multitool and a piece of scrap to trim the door jamb to height.

They would mark the plank for:

• length to the baseboard

• width to the door jamb

• length underneath the door jamb.

With those measurements and some back-and-forth to test for fit, the finished piece looked like the picture below.

This was a time-consuming process because these boards will not have any shoe molding to conceal gaps. They needed to be sized just right.

Step 5: Laying the Last Board

A nice benefit of locking tongue and groove flooring is that you’re not wrangling a toe-nailer into place. When the guys got to the last row, they ripped the boards to width on a table saw and slid them in place using a small pry bar.

Step 6: Install Shoe Molding

Next, Steve’s crew installed shoe molding around the perimeter. They would cope cut the inside corners and make 45° miter cuts for the outside corners.

Pro-Tip: For more details, check out our article on how to cope inside corners.

They also capped the shoe molding with these nice little returns, secured with a couple of pin nails.

For the shoe molding, the guys used a finish nail gun, driving the nails into the baseboard (not the flooring).

Step 7: Install Thresholds

Lastly, the guys installed thresholds at the two doors, and there are a few different options depending on the situation. The first threshold was a transition from Pergo to carpet, and they glued a piece of t-molding in place.

The second threshold was a transition from Pergo to an unfinished space, and the guys used the same t-molding with an insert to fill the unfinished side.

Finished

In one short day this floor is complete, and it looks beautiful.

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

• Day 1: Bathroom Demolition

We’re always working to bring you more Pro-Follows, and other high-quality tutorials. If you enjoy home improvement and learning from professional contractors, take a moment and become an email or RSS subscriber.

As I catch up with Steve and his crew, the plumber and electrician have been through and completed their rough-in work. Here’s how the bathroom looked at the end of Day 1.

Step 8: Plumbing Rough-in

The previous vanity had a double sink, and the homeowners have decided to go with a single sink. Therefore, the plumber eliminated one set (hot, cold, drain) and centered the other set.

Pro-Tip: Most sink drains are roughed-in at 19″ off the floor.

The plumber also removed the old toilet flange and extended the sewer line. After the new floor is installed, the plumber will add a new flange. You can also see he removed the SharkBite end caps in favor of soldered end caps.

Tip: If you’re looking for more information on soldering copper pipe, check out Fred’s tutorial available at that link.

The guys will be installing grab bars 33 – 36″ off the floor so they’ve added blocking in between the studs.

Pro-Tip: The ADA provides specific requirements for grab bars including the size, location and spacing. To read all the specifications on grab bars, read section 609 from the 2005 standards for buildings and facilities.

Here’s the rough-in for the shower controls. The plumber was able to preserve the shut-off valves for the hot and cold supply, and he replaced the shower-head line.

The plumber installed a new shower pan, modifying the drain line to keep everything aligned.

If you recall from Day 1, Steve targets at least a 1″ subfloor to reduce deflection and provide a stable surface for tile. To achieve that thickness, the guys installed 3/8″ Fir CDX plywood over the existing 1/2″ subfloor, gluing and screwing it in place. They used Fir plywood because it features better water resistance and is less likely to swell or warp.

Pro-Tip: The letters “CDX” indicate the grade of plywood with “A” being the highest level (without knots, holes or defects). “C” and “D” refer to the front-side and back-side grade. “X” stands for exposure and indicates that the glues and adhesives used are water resistant. Even so, this plywood isn’t intended to withstand direct exposure over long periods of time.

Tip: You can Build Your Own Basic Plumber’s Tool Kit with tools available at most big box stores.

Step 9: Electric Rough-in

Steve and his crew are also moving the bathroom vent. Originally it was over the toilet and not pulling very much moisture from the room. To make the vent more effective, they’re repositioning it closer to the shower.

The electrician was able to re-route the existing power supply to the new location. He also installed a recessed light over the shower area.

Lastly, the electrician removed the old light fixture and installed a new box higher up.

Step 10: Install Concrete Board

For the shower walls, Steve installed Durock concrete board which is moisture and mold resistant.  It also does not deteriorate in the presence of water, and that’s important because tile is not a complete waterproof barrier. Durock is preferable to regular concrete board because it’s much lighter making it easier to work with.

To secure the concrete board, Steve used 1-1/4″ concrete board screws and OSI adhesive.

The Durock is commonly available in sizes 32″ x 5′ and 36″ x 5′. As you can see, they fit nicely across the width.

The bottom of the Durock is positioned so that it just meets the lip of the shower pan.

Cutting Durock is much like cutting drywall, and Steve started by scoring the Durock along a straightedge. With a little pressure, the board cracked along the cut.

Next, he finished the cut, and used a rasp to clean the edge.

For the shower controls, Steve used a drywall saw to cut make the necessary cutout.

Steve paired all the factory edges together, putting the cut edges at the joint with the drywall.

These joints will later be taped and covered with mortar.

To give himself a better edge and to make it easier to tile the corner adjacent to the shower pan, Steve added a piece of greenboard. Greenboard has a water-resistant (not waterproof) paper covering, making it a better choice than drywall for moisture-rich environments like a bathroom. However, it should not be used in lieu of concrete board in the shower.

That’s it for today’s update. Look for details about moving the bathroom vent fan, and tiling the shower in the near future.

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

Burying power lines is not a very complicated task. However, it can be quite laborious without the right machinery, and a big part of today’s Pro-Follow involves the Ditch Witch. A Ditch Witch is a gas-powered, walk-along trencher used for installing underground service lines, and Steve rented one for the morning.

The chain features tungsten impregnated teeth that will shift most soil types easily.

For this job, the guys needed to dig a 120′ trench to bury conduit at 30″ deep (per county requirements). Since Steve already had all underground lines located for the deck job, they did not need to repeat the process.

The conduit is 4″ schedule 40 PVC rated for above ground and underground use.

They started by marking the path of the trench underneath the existing wires to the utility pole. Conduit is somewhat flexible, and the line did have a gentle curve to avoid some landscaping.

Using the Ditch Witch, they started trenching a path. You can see that the chain cuts through the dirt, roots and even rocks, while a shoot directs dirt to the side.

Periodically, they would check to make sure the trench was deep enough.

Next to the house and alongside the shed, everything had to be dug by hand. It was slow going, and I can only imagine how difficult this job would be without a Ditch Witch.

Once the trench was completed, it was time to lay conduit, and all the pieces were glued together with a PVC cement.

At both ends, they had a 90° elbow that extended a couple of feet above ground level. Steve had a reciprocating saw handy to cut the PVC. It turned out that wasn’t necessary because the conduit was already to perfect length.

After the conduit was in place, they fished a 1/4″ pull rope through.

Tying off a generous length of excess rope, they capped each end with duct tape. BGE, the local utility, will come out and actually run the wires and make the appropriate connections.

I expected that the county would need to inspect the trench before Steve’s crew could fill it. However, that wasn’t the case, and they backfilled the trench.

That’s all for this Pro-Follow. Stay tuned for the next one where I share an update on the bathroom remodel. If you missed it, read about the bathroom demolition at that link.

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

Editors update: The shed has been delivered, and I’ve updated this post with some additional pictures. Dave from DLB Structures (who delivered the shed), was very pleased with the foundation, and I’m pumped with how this project came together.

Materials

• (3) 6 x 6″ pressure treated posts (see below)
• (1) 4 x 4′
• (6) 2 x 10″
• (8) 2 x 8″
• (3) 80 lbs bags of concrete
• (3) Pea gravel
• String line
• Stakes
• Spray paint
• (12) 1/2″ Carriage bolts
• (12) Washers
• (12) Nuts
• (3) Lag screws
• Galvanized nails
• Galvanized hanger ties

6 x 6″ Posts: We were able to use each 6 x 6″ for two holes. However, this may not be the case for everyone.

Tip: Pressure-treated lumber is infused with chemical and rated by the amount per cubic foot of wood. Ground-contact lumber has .40 pounds of preservative per cubic foot, and above-ground rated lumber has .25 pounds.

Tip: When purchasing dimensional lumber, pick through the pile to find straight boards.

Tools

• Shovel
• Digging bar
• String level
• 8′ level
• Post level
• Tape measure
• Large mixing tub
• Circular saw
• Reciprocating saw
• Drill / driver
• Spade bit
• Quick clamps
• Speed square
• Framing nailer
• Crescent wrench

Step 1: Plan the Layout

The shed measures 10 x 18′, and we started planning the layout by marking the corners of the shed with stakes. To keep everything square, we measured the diagonal distances to make sure they were equal.

The shed will be constructed on a skid of 4 x 4′s running left-to-right along the length. For that reason, we want our support beams to be perpendicular and run front-to-back. For this project, we decided that 6 posts, (2 rows of 3 posts) would give us a solid foundation.

Step 2: Run String Guides

We ran several string guides set 16″ in from the corners. The string guides were useful for determining the slope of our site, finding the high-point and marking the locations for our post holes. If you look closely, you’ll see the front, far-left corner was our high point, and the back, right corner was the low point. The height difference between these corners is roughly 3′.

When you’re using a string level, make sure the string is very taught. Otherwise, you won’t get an accurate measurement.

Where the strings intersected, they just barely touched so as to not interfere with each other.

Step 3: Mark Hole Locations

From our string guides, we determined the locations for our post holes and marked them with spray paint. The holes measured about 16″ across.

Step 4: Dig Holes

We dug all the holes below the frost line, and here in Maryland that means 30″ deep. We were careful not to dig too deep because we wanted the concrete footers to rest on undisturbed ground.

Tip: Before you start digging, have underground lines (water, gas, power, communication, etc.) located. Call the North America One Call Referral Service (1-888-258-0808). It’s free and required by law.

Step 5: Pour Concrete Footers

Next, we mixed up several bags of concrete and poured 5 – 6″ in each hole.

We let the concrete set for a couple of days.

Step 6: Rough-cut 6×6 Posts

Knowing the approximate height for each post (from our string guides), we rough-cut our 6 x 6″ posts and put them cut-side-up into each hole. The posts are oriented this way because the cut sides will have slightly less pressure-treated chemical in the center.

Step 7: Square and Plumb Posts

We setup a string to mark the front edge of our posts and began leveling each one. A post level is really useful for this step.

As we leveled the posts, we used a small amount of pea gravel and dirt to temporary hold the posts in place. This allowed us to go back and make adjustments if necessary.

In this picture you can see that I placed my pencil between the post and the string (and another pencil on the far post). This is a helpful trick to make sure that each post is the same distance from the string. Otherwise, it’s tougher to check that each post is right in line.

Step 8: Fill and Tamp Holes

When we were satisfied that all the posts were in-line with each other, equidistant and completely level, we began filling in around each post, tamping the dirt as we worked.

Step 9: Mark Support Beam Level

We want to keep the shed as low to the ground as possible while still keeping everything level. Starting at our highest point and using an 8′ level, we marked the bottom of our support beam just a few inches off the ground and then scribed this line across all of the other posts.

Step 10: Cut Posts to Height

Since we’re using 2 x 10″ boards for our support beams, we measured 9-1/4″ (2 x 10″ boards actually measure 1-1/2″ x 9-1/4″) up from our line. Using a quick-clamp and speed square as a straight-edge, we cut each post to the right height. To make this cut, we used a circular saw on each side of the posts and a reciprocating saw to cut through the center.

Step 11: Notch Posts

Each support beam is a double 2 x 10″, and we notched each post where the support beam will sit. We cut our notches to measure 3-1/8″ x 9-1/4″.

Step 12: Build Support Beams

Using a framing nailer, we put rows of 5 nails every 24″ or so on both sides of the support beam. The nails are 3-1/4″ long so driving them at an angle ensures they don’t protrude through the opposite side.

Step 13: Through-bolt Support Beams

After using a string to line up the front of each support beam, we quick-clamped them in place and drilled 5/8″ holes with a spade bit.

Next, we placed our carriage bolts, washers and nuts and used a wrench to tighten everything down.

Step 14: Add Joists

For additional support and to keep our foundation from racking, we added 2 x 8″ joists between the support beams. You can see each joist is secured with hanger ties and sits flush with the top of our support beams.

Step 15: Install Lateral Braces

We also installed lateral braces on the backside posts using a combination of carriage bolts and lag screws.

Step 16: Cut Support Beams to Length

Lastly, we cut the back of the support beams to the appropriate length.

Finished

Here are some pictures of the finished product. I’m really pleased with how everything turned out. The foundation is very solid, completely level, and I’m excited to see the shed delivered. I’ll be sure to add pictures when it arrives.

Here are some additional pictures now that the shed has arrived!

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

If you’re not familiar with our Pro-Follows, I spend time with a local contractor, documenting their work. You get to see the progress in regular updates, and with tips and tricks along the way, there’s no better resource for learning how to tackle your next home improvement project. Find all of our completed how-tos in the Project Guides section, and if learning from the professional contractors sounds like something you’d enjoy, become an email or RSS subscriber and never miss out.

Here’s how the bathroom looked when the guys arrived yesterday morning. The plan is to replace the vanity, toilet, and floor and wall tile. Instead of a tub, the homeowners opted to have Steve and his crew install a shower. They’ll also be moving the bathroom vent closer to the shower.

Step 1: Remove the Vanity

The guys started the demolition process by disassembling the vanity and countertop.

You can see that the water supply lines came up through the floor so these needed to be disconnected before completely removing the vanity. Also, you’ll notice that this house has black ABS pipes instead of copper or PVC pipes.

After shutting off the water main, they cut the copper supply lines and pulled the base cabinets.

Step 2: Cap and Plug Vanity Plumbing

The guys cut the drain lines and inserted temporary plugs. These plugs help prevent gases from traveling up through the pipe, and they keep construction debris out.

This plug has a wing nut that you can tighten down and mechanically seal the inside of the pipe.

Steve’s crew also used SharkBit end stops to cap the supply lines. SharkBites are great for this application because they eliminate the need to solder a connection, and they can be re-used.

It’s important to clean the copper pipe with a wire brush before making any connections.

Step 3: Remove Drywall and Tile

In the shower area, Steve’s crew cut away the existing greenboard since they would be replacing it with cement board, and this made it really easy to get rid of the wall tile. They started by marking a plumb line along the existing tile and about 3″ away from the ceiling.

Next, the guys cut the greenboard with a drywall saw.

They removed the shower hardware and began to demo the walls in large pieces.

Again, they cut and capped the water lines.

Step 4: Remove Tub

To remove the tub, they first needed to unscrew the drain.

After that, the tub lifted clear.

Step 5: Remove Baseboard and Flooring

Next, the guys moved on to the flooring. They started by pulling off the shoe molding and baseboard.

The subfloor was actually two layers of plywood. Steve and his crew target a 1″ subfloor to decrease deflection, and since this floor did not meet that standard, the guys pulled up the first layer of plywood. They’ll replace it with a thicker piece before tiling over it.

Fortunately, the plywood was only nailed in place (not glued), and it came free without too much trouble.

The toilet flange did pose a problem because the screws securing it against the floor were rusted, and the guys couldn’t back them out. Instead, they used a Bosch multi-tool to cut the screws.

Step 6: Cut Hole for Plumbing Access

Lastly, Steve’s crew cut the section of drywall behind the vanity to provide access for the plumber, and they saved this piece of drywall to re-hang later.

Step 7: Clean Up

The “bones” of this bathroom are in good shape, and despite the questionable looking tile, there was no water damage. Here’s how everything looked after some cleanup.

Stay tuned for the next Pro-Follow update in a few days when I share details about the plumbing rough-in.

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

In this example, the power comes from the breaker panel, then to the switch box, and then on to the outlet. After the video and a few pictures, I explain an alternative method that can be used to achieve a half switched outlet when power comes to the outlet first.

Wiring Diagram Walk Through

If the video moved too quickly, these pictures should make the wiring setup clear.

Alternate Wiring Method

In the approach in the video, power enters first at the switch. If power enters first at the outlet, it is possible to achieve a half-switched outlet by branching a switch wire. This is achieved by running two-wire cable from the outlet box to the switch box. Power leaves the outlet box on the white wire (which should be wrapped with black or red electrical tape to indicate that it is being used to carry “hot” to the switch”), then in the switch box the black and white wires are connected to the switch, effectively making the black wire “switched hot”, which runs back in the same cable to the outlet. Using some pigtails, you can attach both hot and switched hot to the top and bottom of the outlet.

Dave Rongey has a decent set of wiring diagrams for both methods of half-switched wiring. (There are a number of ads on this page… but I did think Dave’s drawings were a very good look at both wiring methods.) Note that recent changes in the National Electrical Code require a neutral wire be present in all switch boxes, which means the alternate method (where power enters into the outlet rather than the switch) is no longer acceptable, unless three-wire cable is run from the outlet to the switch, which provides no cost savings, and so isn’t a great solution.

Additional Thoughts

• We’ve never seen a situation where a single outlet is placed on two completely different circuits (controlled by different breakers); however, you should know that someone could wire an outlet this way, even though it may violate code.
• The cable shown here is 14/2 and 14/3 NMB cable, suitable for most indoor wiring. 14 gauge wire is required for 15 amp circuits. Thicker 12 gauge wire is required on 20 amp circuits, such as those usually found in kitchens.
• See the Related Content section below for additional useful articles on electrical outlets.

!One Project Closer's Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.