One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags

What to do, what to do, what to do...

2010-07-27T15:01:00.000-07:00

The response to my last post has been quiet at best. Perhaps I abandonned my blog for too long, or perhaps my lack of enthusiasm for cities that aren't Paris became too obvious and my readers slowly wandered away. Maybe the move from Wordpress was just too much to take, although it did make my life as a blogger a great deal easier.

Whatever the reason, things have been pretty uneventful here. My plans to revamp the blog were met with almost no response, which makes me wonder if I should bother maintaining the site or simply make a permanent leap to my fashion blog, abandonning the world of travel until I actually have a holiday planned(which, at the rate I'm buying clothes these days, won't be for a while.) I'm undecided at this point. If it would make any kind of difference to your life if I abandonned One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags, say something in the comments section.

In the meantime, you can visit my fashion blog, Coco and Vera, and see where all of my hard-earned money is going at the moment.

Bisous,
Cee

Changes... [Another Poll]

2010-07-12T14:38:00.000-07:00

The World Cup Final was played yesterday, so it seems I have no more excuses... It's time for me to come back and give this blog the attention it deserves.

That said, I am unquestionably dismayed by the prospect of writing about London, a city that left my unsophisticated seventeen-year-old self utterly non-plussed and that I doubt would do much more for me today. Moreover, the thought of travel-writing disheartens me, because I know that the only travel in my forseeable future (as in, the remainder of 2010) is a two-week trip to Winnipeg.

I don't have writer's block, exactly. It's more like writer's antipathy.

When I was writing about Paris, I loved this blog. I looked forward to posting entries about my favourite places to shop and eat and see... Writing about Barcelona was more of a chore. The city itself is beautiful, and worthy of far more enthusiasm than I feel for it. Seattle is less the love my life than Paris, but it was equally easy to write about; I visit often and never tire of finding new things to experience while there.

But London... I have been putting London off for longer than I want to admit simply because I know I won't like writing about it. I will have to force myself to post, and if my blogging comes to that, then there isn't really much point in going on.

So I think there are some changes- probably big changes- in store for One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags. There are a few different directions I'm considering...

I could devote the blog exclusively to Paris. It is my home-away-from-home and one of the great loves of my life... As those who know me are well aware, I am a devoted francophile and sometimes cannot stop myself from expounding upon the marvelous virtues of France.
I could take the blog in a slightly more personal direction, combining my passion for travel and fashion in a more photo-focussed, less information-based way. After all, as much as I'd love to, I simply can't be travelling all the time. In the time between holidays, I would focus more on fashion. [I've been working on a fashion blog with my friend Rachel for a few months now and have allowed it to monopolise a lot of my time. For an idea of what my version of a fashion blog looks like, visit Coco and Vera.]
I could take on a joint project with my photographer fiancé, Ian. I am envisioning a sort of travel photo blog... his images and my impressions. [To see more of his work, visit Ian Lloyd Photography.]

Be sure to vote for your favourite concept... Or suggest any other ideas you might have in the common section. Thanks again for reading and being part of this project. One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags wouldn't be anywhere with you!

Bises,
Cee

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Hiatus

2010-06-22T11:26:00.000-07:00

Bonjour mes chers,

Just a little note to say that One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags is still up and running... but with a constant stream of houseguests (one every month since the beginning of 2010); a wedding that is now only two months away and World Cup on TV all day, every day, I haven't had much time for myself, never mind my blog.

I will be back, I promise. But please don't be too disheartened if it isn't until after the World Cup final. (In spite of the fact that my team- France, of course- both performed and behaved abysmally in their extremely short run in the tournament, I can't stop watching now.) Happy travels! I'll see you soon!

Bisous,
Cee.

Farewell to Washington...

2010-06-07T14:49:00.000-07:00

Oh, Seattle... while I count down the hours of the work day in my normal life, eating healthy lunches and low-calorie snacks in preparation for my impending nuptuals, I pine for your hand-forged donuts and endless array of farmer's market samplings; dream of what I might buy in your stores and wish I was wandering any of your streets, rather than sitting here.

That's the thing about travelling. I don't know that I would want to live in Seattle. The freeway driving and parking zones and constant hill-climbing and relatively small size of the city would likely get me down if I was dealing them on a daily basis. Most of my visit to the United States are approximately the equivalent of going to a carnival; full of novelty and wonder, sticky fingers and excitement but not meant to last. I know that eventually the magical whirlwind of new adventures would fade and living in Seattle would be like living almost anywhere else. (Except Paris, obviously.)

But for the day, the weekend, or even a week, Seattle is fun. It is full of new things to experience, delicious treats to eat and gorgeous clothes just waiting to be purchased. I know I'll go back again and again, revelling in the glory of the over-consumptive empire that is the United States. Although it's only an hour or so across the border from my home, it is a vastly different country from my own. I never tire of exploring what is so close and yet so far away. I encourage you to do the same. The world, in truth, isn't nearly as small as that irritating song would have us believe.

One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags is packing up and heading to London! If there is anything specific you want to know about, be sure to leave a comment!

Seattle: Recap

2010-06-02T13:26:00.000-07:00

We have talked about a lot of Seattle shops, restaurants, sights and hotels since our arrival about a month a go. Just to make your life a little bit easier, I've created an exhaustive list of all of the places I've recommended in the Seattle entries. [Note: I'm considering doing this for Paris and Barcelona as well; let me know if you think it would be helpful.]

Happy travelling!

This is everything I have so far discovered and love in Seattle...

Stay at: Capitol Hill Guesthouse - 1808 East Denny Way
              The Gaslight Inn - 1727 15th Avenue
              Marriott Residence Inn Lake Union - 800 Fairview Avenue North
              Silver Cloud Inn Lake Union - 1150 Fairview Avenue North

See: Elliott Bay Book Company - 1521 10th Avenue
         The Great Wind-Up - 93 Pike Street
         Pigs on Parade
         Pike Place Market - 85 Pike Street
         Pioneer Square
         The Original Starbucks - 1912 Pike Place
         University of Washington Campus
         Uwajimaya - 600 5th Avenue South
         Waterfall Garden Park - 219 2nd Avenue South

Eat at: Beecher's Handmade Cheese - 1600 Pike Place
            The Cheesecake Factory - 700 Pike Street
            Chipotle Mexican Grill - Multiple locations
            Coldstone Creamery - 624 North 34th Street
            Mae Phim - 213 Pike Street
            Noodle Zone - Westlake Centre Food Court
            Panera Bread - 401 Northeast Northgate Way (in Northgate Mall)
            Le Panier - 1902 Pike Place
            Piroshky Piroshky - 1908 Pike Place
            Pizzeria Pagliacci - Multiple locations
            Racha Noodles and Thai Cuisine - 23 Mercer Street
            Seattle's Best Coffee - Multiple locations
            Seattle Coffee Works - 107 Pike Street
            Serious Pie - 316 Virginia Street
            Starbucks  - Multiple locations
            Sweetie's Candy - 1501 Pike Place
            Top Pot Doughnuts - Three locations
            Trophy Cupcakes - Two locations

Shop at: American Apparel - Multiple locations
               Ann Taylor - Two locations
               Anthropologie - 1509 5th Avenue
               Barnes and Noble - Multiple locations
               Bath and Body Works - 401 Northeast Northgate Way (in Northgate Mall)
               Buffalo Exchange - 4530 University Way Northeast
               DSW Shoe Source - 401 Northeast Northgate Way (in Northgate Mall)
               Express - Multiple locations
               H&M - Multiple locations
               J. Crew - Multiple locations
               Nordstrom - 500 Pine Street
               Nordstrom Rack - 1601 2nd Avenue
               Ross - Multiple locations
               Target - Multiple locations
               Ulta - 401 Northeast Northgate Way (in Northgate Mall)
               Urban Outfitters - Multiple locations
               Walgreen's - Multiple locations
               White House Black Market - 600 Pine Street (in Pacific Place Mall)

  One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags is heading to London very soon!

Seattle: Day 4

2010-05-31T13:39:00.000-07:00

The absolute worst thing about holidays, without a doubt, is that they always come to an end. Just once, I would really like to be ready to leave a place before I was forced to go. But, alas, no one on earth has as many vacation days as I want. I buy lottery tickets in the hopes that I will be able to turn my life into a giant holiday long before I reach retirement age...

But I digress.

Yesterday morning, we packed our bags and said good-bye to the Gaslight Inn. I cannot say enough good things about this bed and breakfast. It was comfortable, welcoming and the location- at 15th avenue and Howell Street- couldn't be better. If you're planning a trip to Seattle, this is definitely the place to stay.

On our way out of town, we stopped off for one last indulgence at the Capitol Hill location of Top Pot Doughnuts. What can I say? I just couldn't help myself.

We also stopped at Northgate Mall before leaving the city limits. It's a mall like any other, but the draw for me is that Seattle's only DSW Shoe Source is located here. Although I have to admit that I exercised a significant amount of self-control and left the store empty-handed, I still needed to look around.

Across the street from Northgate Mall is a shopping curiousity, the likes of which I have never seen. Stacked in a warehouse-like complex is a Target, Best Buy, and Sports Authority, one on top of the other. It certainly seemed to be an efficient use of the available space, but as someone who was unfamiliar with the area, I have to say that it was hard to tell how to get into the complex... we took several circuitous turns before making it into the attached parking garage.

For lunch, we stopped in at Panera Bread. This is supposed to be one of- if not the- healthiest fastfood chains around. Whereas there appeared to be some healthful options on the menu, it was too extensive for either one of us to make a good decision in a hurry. Thrown off by the number of questions we were asked at the till, I ended up with macaroni and cheese and a side of chips, while Ian was served extra bread with his turkey sandwich. Moreover, very few people in the restaurant seemed to have ordered sensible-sized portions. I suppose eating healthy food is a start, but eating too much healthy food doesn't put you much further ahead than eating junk. Not to mention that in addition to "healthy options", Panera Bread has an enormous glass case full of tempting cookies and icing-covered pastries. I defy anyone to make a healthy choice when faced with that. It would be next to impossible.

If you really want healthy food in a hurry while you're in Seattle, I recommend Chipotle. The portions can be enormous, but it's harder to go wrong when there are limited side-dishes and no desserts to be had.

Our trek back across the border was largely uneventful. Budget Rent-a-Car was kind enough not to tack on any additional fees when we returned our car, which almost made up for the fact that they were charging us at least 60$ more than we were quoted at the time of booking. There is a reason why online reviews try to steer tourists away from Budget. I have rented cars from National before and found their business practises to be vastly more ethical. If you need to rent a car, National is definitely the way to go. I would only use Budget if there are absolutely no other options. That said, wherever you rent your car, try to get a Toyota Yaris; the gas mileage is outstanding. Driving to and from Seattle, as well as around the city, we only had to fill the car once- and got back to Vancouver with our tank seven-eighths full!

Seattle was a lot of fun! Check back tomorrow for a full recap of my recommendations!

Bisous,
Cee

Seattle: Day 3

2010-05-30T19:24:00.000-07:00

Our last full day in Washington's capital city began in a most discouraging way; when we woke up, the sky was still dark and the rain? Still raining down. I flatly refused to put off plans to visit Pioneer Square in spite of the weather, but the low temperatures drove us to make a few stops along the way... one at American Apparel, purveyors of cheap sweatshirts... and one at Top Pot Doughnuts, purveyors of comfort food.

Beyond Tim Horton's, doughnuts don't have much of a presence on the West Coast of North America. I grew-up on them in central Canada... my grandad met his friends at a doughnut shop every morning of his retirement, and always stocked up on bags of day-old treats for my brother and me. Doughnuts, for me, are the ultimate taste of home. Naturally, the idea of homemade ("hand-forged", as Top Pot's slogan proclaims) doughnuts appealed to me on a variety of levels; the sweet, the sticky and the sugary. The only real problem was deciding which doughnut I wanted... There ended up being a subsequent visit because I hadn't been able to try everything I wanted on the first go around. I sampled the raspberry bullseye, the bismarck, the maple kruller and the raspberry-glazed chocolate cake. They were all delicious, but the raspberry bullseye, a combination of thick glazed donut with a generous glob of sour-sweet jam in the middle, was without equal.

Fortified, we made our way through the rain, braving the Seattle transit system, to Pioneer Square. With Elliott Bay Books closed, the area seems to lack life... but that may also have been a result of the abysmal spring weather. The architecture was as beautiful and impressive as ever. And the new waterfall garden is a lovely addition to an area that remains, in spite of the constant influx of tourists, one of Seattle's most impoverished.

Soaked through, we returned to our room at the Gaslight Inn for a pre-dinner rest that turned into an hour-long nap. Such is the beauty of vacation. We made our way back downtown refreshed and recharged to enjoy dinner at our of our Seattle favourites, Mae Phim. The pad thai was exactly as I remembered it... perfectly browned; sweet, sour, sticky and covered with a generous helping of chopped peanuts.

We wandered the Westlake Centre location of Barnes and Noble after dinner. Ian was hoping to get a picture of the Paramount Theatre's neon sign once the sun set, but darkness flatly refused to fall. Although the sign was turned off by the time that it was dark enough to get a good photo, I did walk away with a beautiful sketchbook, bargain-priced at only ten dollars. I don't have the faintest idea what I might draw in it, but that isn't really the point.

Check back tomorrow for details about our final day in Seattle... and a full Seattle recap!

xox,

Cee

Seattle: Day 2 [Part II]

2010-05-29T18:10:00.000-07:00

Last night I was vastly overdressed for dinner at Serious Pie, one of Seattle's newer pizza restaurants. This is no Pagliacci. For one thing, Serious Pie has only one location, hidden away on the north side of downtown, near a Zipcar lot. The tiny space is maximized by the use of long bar tables... forget eating a romantic dinner here; the food may be fancy as far as pizza is concerned, but this is is definitely is jeans and t-shirt establishment. You will be eating within four inches of a stranger... if you're arrive at peak hours, which is pretty much all of them, since the restaurant hosts happy hour with excellent appetizer prices from 3 to 5 pm, you may even end up sitting in between two people you have never met, with your date across from you.

Serious Pie is packed at all times. You can expect to wait to be seated, but never fear... there is lots to see in the open kitchen, where pizzas are prepared and wood-fired by hand. There are only about six varieties on the menu, with no susbstitutions available. I sampled the delicious truffle cheese and roasted mushroom; Ian ordered a pie toppled with fennel sausage and cherry bomb peppers. The crust is fluffy, particularly around the edges, but not New York-style thick. Many diners seemed to think it was the best they had ever eaten; I thought it tasted like good pizza, but wouldn't have dreamt of going so far as to ask for the recipe. [For the record, the dough-making process takes 36 hours.]

What set Serious Pie apart for me was not their pizza- you can get pizza anywhere, and putting unusual toppings on it does not a great restaurant make- but rather their ambition dessert. The chocolate, hazelnut, passionfruit and ricotta cannoli we ordered was the perfect combination of crisp, creamy, sweet and sour... ambitious, unique and light, so that we walked away satisfied but not overstuffed. I would go back to Serious Pie for dessert in a heartbeat.

Check back later to find out how we spent our third day in Seattle!

Bisous,
Cee

Seattle: Day Two

2010-05-28T16:13:00.000-07:00

This morning we woke up to the worst vacation weather imaginable... pouring rain and a whopping ten degree heat. In spite of all the obvious reasons not to, I got up early to blowdry my curly hair straight before testing Seattle Public Transit.

Suffice it to say that my hair, not surprisingly, is large and triangular, but we made it to Pike Place Market otherwise unscathed.

Pike Place Market was packed before 10am. The enclosed market attracted every tourist in the city, given the weather. The early morning fish toss drew a crowd of no less than forty people, and at least as many cameras. We navigated the crush of tourists to play with wind-up toys at The Great Wind-Up. (Pudgey the Piglet, a stuffed pig who oinks for food, was my personal favourite, although the historical action figures were entertaining, too.) For some more grown-up entertainment, we perused dusty record stores and smelled the plethora of seasonal flowers selling for bargain prices. Spring flowers in the Pacific Northwest are dark and vibrant; burgundy, purple and yellow. The cherries and berries, now in season, are coloured to match.

Food samples are widely available at the market. Although we definitely had to push our way in, we managed to try white chocolate raspberry truffles; strawberry jalapeno jam; white bread with truffle oil; curry-flavoured angel hair pasta and lemon-honey flavoured hazelnuts.

Just as we were leaving the market, the rain got worse instead of better... to escape the sudden downpour, we stopped in at Seattle Coffee Works to try the cold-pressed espresso they're known for. Not a coffee drinker, I can't recommend it- staff publicly embarrassed me, albeit jokingly, for not sampling what they had on offer. But beyond that, the coffee is served in a portion that is about three times larger than neccessary considering the caffeine content. Considering the attitude of the place, we left before disposing of the remains of Ian's drink... and stopped for lunch at Piroshky Piroshky which, mercifully, is about as unpretentious as a place can get. The entire shop can't mesure more than 6' by 8' square, but what they do within that tiny space is phenomenal. My potato, onion and cheese stuffed piroshky was a far cry from the Ukrainian perogies I grew up with... the breading was more floury and less potatoey than what I think of as perogy, but that improved, rather than detracted from, the taste. Even if you've never had a perogy before, this is a taste sensation you don't want to miss when you visit Seattle- as the line outside will more than prove.

We found some great shopping deals this afternoon- I scored a silk skirt from Ann Taylor, originally priced at 118$, for only 30$. It's going to go perfectly with my new nude platform heels... the perfect outfit for tonight's dinner date.

Check back later to find out what we ate for dinner... and whether or not I spilled on my new clothes!

Bisous,

Cee

Seattle: Day One

2010-05-27T20:16:00.000-07:00

Today, we were on a mission: find Cee a wedding band.

After a breakfast of pastry, fruit and fresh orange juice in the dining room at the Gaslight Inn we took an easy- if not short- through Capitol Hill and down Pine Street to downtown Seattle. Macy's was hosting a Le Vian trunkshow, and the company was supposed to bring in a specific ring for us... either it no longer exists or never did. All I know is that when the custom-making figures started to add up, my eyes glazed over and we left quickly. I'm not a dream-wedding type of girl, so not having a specific wedding band isn't going to change my life either way. I do love beautiful jewelry, but the idea of a five-figure pricetag was terrifying... I would so much rather take a gorgeous- and long- honeymoon.

To comfort myself after this small failure, I had lunch at Noodle Zone in Westlake Centre. The fettucini with peanut sauce was exactly as I remembered- the perfect combination of peanut and coconut flavours, generously topped with peanuts and served in an unreasonably large portion. Ah, edible happiness...

Post-carb fest, we walked back up Capitol Hill- making a quick stop at Walgreen's for Mexican Coke (the kind that still comes in a glass bottle, without preservatives.)- and gathered up our bags. The ones we had packed full of old clothes to sell at Buffalo Exchange.

I have never had a less-than-stellar experience selling clothes at Buffalo Exchange, and today was no exception; my haul earned 85$. Or it would have, had I not opted to take 121$ in store credit. I made my first ever purchase at Buffalo Exchange this afternoon. I thought it was just going to be a beige houndstooth-print silk shirt, bargain priced for 15,50$... And then. Oh, and then.

Just as I was about to take my payout, Ian spotted a pair of virutally unworn brown Frye boots poking out of a bin of not-yet-shelved shoes. Miraculously, they were exactly my size. And selling for 75$, a mere quarter of their retail price. Since I had 121$ in store credit, I walked away with both the boots and the silk top- and 21$ cash.

Do not miss Buffalo Exchange when you're in Seattle. I cannot stress that enough.

To celebrate my good fortune- and because we like to eat- we had dinner at Pam's Kitchen, a Trinidadian-Caribbean restaurant on the University of Washington campus. I saw Pam's Kitchen on the Food Network's Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives last month and immediately knew I had to try it. The rotis that have earned this small restaurant its reputation- there are two varieties, the fluffy paratha and thinner, spicier dahlpuri- are wonderful, but hardly the only draw. I'm not sure I have ever had a better potato-and-chickpea curry dish than I ate for dinner tonight. Homemade ginger beer was also unique and intriguing, although a bit too sweet for my taste.

The highlight of the day, though, was, without a doubt, a wildlife sighting at the University Village mall. Two ducks decided to take an afternoon stroll and stopped for a drink outside a gourmet food store.They were tame, adorable and extremely photogenic.

Tomorrow we're heading to Pike Place Market... be sure to check back for updates!

Bisous,

Cee

Seattle: Arrival

2010-05-26T23:36:00.000-07:00

After the expected fiasco with the rental car dealership [Note to travellers: never, never rent a car from Budget Rent-a-Car. In particular, avoid the location on West Georgia Street in downtown Vancouver.] our trip got off to an inauspicious start. Stuck in rush hour traffic, it took us over an hour to escape the city limits. Stuck behind a travelling pack of RVs at the border, it seemed like we couldn't catch a break... to make matters worse, our internet directions lead us astray; thank God 7-11 sells maps.

And then we arrived at the Gaslight Inn. Suddenly, all of our frustration disappeared. This immaculate bed and breakfast on Capitol Hill, half a block from Pike and Pine, is everything we hoped for an more. The owner is gregarious, friendly and welcoming. His establishment is impressive inside and out, with dark wood fixtures, a working fireplace on the main floor and plush carpeting. On the way to suite 108, we stopped to take a look at the breathtaking view of downtown from the second floor balconey (which has seating for at least eight.) Looking down, we could see the pool, which is already open for the summer, but too cold to really swim in... it still looked tempting.

After quickly dropping off our bags, we made our way downtown on an important mission. Having watched far too many episodes of The Big Bang Theory- to the point that I have to remind myself that I don't personally know Dr. Sheldon Cooper- we have had a long-standing desire to eat at The Cheesecake Factory.

I can officially say: mission accomplished. The Cheesecake Factory in downtown Seattle is impressively decorated in a misappropriated and thereby cheapened Italian style. That doesn't make the enormous columns any less impressive. The food that Dr. Sheldon Cooper eats every week on my favourite TV show is bland at best... there are precious few vegetarian choices that don't involve pasta. Portions are as huge as they are reputed to be. Forget looking at the nutritional information the staff is now obligated to hand out with menus- it will only sicken you. Just avoid finishing everything that is put in front of you. This wasn't much trouble for me- I ran out of vegetables long before I finished my pasta, and noodles on their own tend to lack flavour even at the most authentic gourmet establishments.

Authentic and gourmet are two words that can never be used to describe The Cheesecake Factory. But they are known for their cake, and the reputation, I can now attest, is well-deserved. We sampled the tiramisu cheesecake... it was beyond fabulous.

Now, it's time for me to rest... we have a big day of shopping and eating and seeing ahead of us tomorrow. Check back for daily updates!

Bisous,

Cee

Seattle: Packed and Ready

2010-05-26T10:48:00.000-07:00

This morning, I navigated public transit with a fifty-pound suitcase in tow. The behemoth comes up to my waist- although that doesn't neccessarily mean it's enormous; more likely, it's an indication that I am small (as if there weren't enough of those already... overhead shelves, bar stools, jeans with a 34' inseam... the list goes on.) It reminded me of the less glamourous side of travel, which I experience so rarely here at my ivory computer desk. Suitcases are heavy. Transit is unreliable. Google reviews written by perfect strangers can cause you total last-minute terror. [The car rental place we've chosen apparently has a history of doing something called 'repair milking.' I understand that people are far more likely to write reviews about a mildly negative experience than they are about an excellent one, but I can't help being concerned.]

I suspect this is why I write about travelling- it's easier, and a lot less nervewracking, than actually doing it.

Not to suggest that I am in any way rethinking my travel plans. It is 10:04am. There are six hours left in my work day before I can even think about getting out of the city... and all I want is to be in Seattle right now.

I've managed to eat up about sixteen minutes of those six hours writing this. Not exactly the result I was hoping for. At this point I might even welcome work if it meant that time would pass more quickly... Okay, truth be told, I'm not quite there yet. But I will be soon.

Check back for frequent updates over the next five days to discover Seattle with me!

Bisous,
Cee

Seattle: Where to Shop [II]

2010-05-21T11:23:00.000-07:00

My love of all things wearable truly knows no bounds. A beautiful skirt can change my life- even if it's only for an instant. I have felt love at first sight more times than a character in a teen melodrama, but the object of my affection is, invariably, a pair of sky-high heels. I like things that are pretty, and shiny, and well-cut. And I enjoy the thrill of finding them as much as I enjoy actually wearing them.

Oh, I also like make-up. And jewelry. I like jewelry a lot.

When I'm in Seattle, I shop for things I like at...
H&M - Multiple locations in Seattle
H&M in Seattle is much like H&M anywhere else in the world; that it is one of my favourite stores is, surprisingly, not why it made this list. H&M sells essentially the same clothing and accessories the world over. But Americans get them at the best price. Comparing European prices with American ones is tricky business and can change drastically from day-to-day. As a Canadian shopper, I can guarantee that if you visit a Seattle H&M, you will find everything that you've been admiring in your local H&M store, for anywhere between ten and twenty dollars less than you would be asked to pay in Canada. Is it infuriating? Absolutely. Will it make you buy more? Probably. Either way, a deal is a deal.

J. Crew - 2260 North East University Village Street

How do I love J. Crew? Let me count the ways... About half of my warbrobe comes from this store. Browsing their online shop is one of my favourite ways to waste time- and part with large sums of money. J. Crew is not cheap. But they are one of the only stores in North America where you can still buy shoes made in Italy, not China. They source fabrics from old family mills in long forgotten countryscapes. Everything they do is about detail, from rhinestone-embellished velour pumps to brocade dresses with hidden pockets to satin-lined coats. Although they have recently begun to embrace trends slightly more liberally, their wares are elegant and classic and timeless, almost heirloom-worthy; I can just as easily picture my grandmother wearing my red wool winter coat from J. Crew as I can some distant future great-grandchild. When you buy something from J. Crew, you aren't just buying a piece of clothing... I won't go so far as to say that they are lovingly creating unique pieces of individual shoppers, but there is a certain feeling of that in the stores. The corporate culture is such that employees love where they work, what their workplace sells and want to share it. J. Crew is an experience. And you'll bring back something beautiful to remember it by.

Nordstrom - 500 Pine Street
What started out as a joint-venture shoe store opened by a Swedish immigrant in Seattle has become one of the United States most successful department stores. From much-coveted designer jeans to Manolos and Jimmy Choos, Nordstrom has it all. I have never bought a single thing from them. At 23$ a pair, even the underwear they sell is a little too rich for my blood. That doesn't stop me from looking. Nor should it stop you. The 500 Pine Street location is Nordstrom's flagship store, just blocks away from 4th and Pike, where its first incarnation opened in 1901. Inasmuch, it is a tourist attraction as well as a store. Consider your window-shopping part of a true Seattle experience.

Nordstrom Rack - 1601 2nd Avenue
If you really want to be able to leave Seattle having bought something from Nordstrom, never fear... I have an ace up my sleeve. Just down the street from Nordstrom's flagship location is Nordstrom Rack, their clearance centre. Be forewarned; the store is crowded with people and scarcely arranged merchandise. Their is a pervading smell of dampness and I have a strong suspicion that the floors only get cleaned on an annual basis. Do not, under any circumstances, use the restrooms. And, most importantly, be prepared to dig. Nothing is going to jump out at you. But if you take your time sifting through the racks, you can find some amazing deals. (My fiancé recently scored a Hugo Boss dress shirt for a mere 15$.) And if you're a fan of Hanky Panky underwear (and honestly, if you're not, it's just because you haven't tried them yet), do not miss Nordstrom Rack; they clear out last season's colours for anywhere between 7$ and 9$.

Ulta - 401 North East Northgate Way
Sephora has an unaffiliated little sister. She is smaller, less flashy and easier on your wallet. Her name is Ulta. Known as "beauty superstore", Ulta sells cosmetics from their own line as well as designer brands like Smashbox and drugstore brands like Covergirl; an array of skincare and fragrance lines; salon haircare products and styling tools. Some locations have salons on-site: a Benefit Brow Bar, for example, or a Redken-certified colourist. Make-up junkies- you know who you are- do not dare miss this cosmetic emporium.

White House Black Market - 301-600 Pine Street
Take a look through your wardrobe, before you leave for Seattle. If you notice a lot of bright colours, you can probably give this store a miss. Personally, I am uncomfortable in colours, almost suspicious of particularly bright ones that don't seem to match anything. For me, White House Black Market is a haven. They sell white and black clothing, and almost nothing else. Every season they have a few key coloured pieces- a red satin cocktail dress debuted for Christmas 2009- but by and large they trade in neutrals. Girls on the hunt for their perfect little black dress, the one that Breakfast at Tiffany's has driven us to spend our lives obsessing over, will not want to miss WHBM. Black and white may not look particularly exciting when displayed in a store, but you cannot possibly go wrong wearing them (as long as you aren't prone to spills.) WHBM also has amazing sales- think 180$ dresses being sold off at 29,99$- that make it worth investigating even if you are a colour person.

The countdown to my departure for Seattle is set at five days! Check for daily updates starting on Wednesday, May 26th!

Seattle: Where to Shop [I]

2010-05-20T08:43:00.000-07:00

I would be a little out of touch if I thought you weren't going to go shopping when you're in Seattle. Frankly, it would be delusional to think that I don't spend a good portion of the time I spend in Seattle trolling the racks in search of adorable dresses and great deals. I love clothes. And shoes. Especially new ones. In that spirit, I've made a list.

When in Seattle, I like to ~~spend my hard-earned money~~ swipe my credit card (who was I kidding?) at these stores. You probably will, too...

Ann Taylor - Pacific Place, 600 Pine Street
You're raising your eyebrows. I know. But let me stop you before you start wondering why I'm recommending somewhere that sells suits. Ann Taylor is, I grant, a purveyor of mom jeans and more suits than I am normally comfortable with. But the chain has redeemed itself in my eyes, for the following two reasons. One: Their line of spring dresses is to die for. Two: They are, in some ways, a haven for girls who are no longer teenagers but not yet full-fledged women. Styles are trendy, but not over-the-top. If you're sick of picking through piles of plaid shirts at what was once your favourite store, or discouraged by your unsuccessful attempts to find a fitted sweater anywhere, leave your preconcieved notions behind and try Ann Taylor. You won't be disappointed.

Anthropologie - 1509 5th Avenue
This store is a haven for girls who like to read. They sell very few books and yet it is a distinctly cerebral place. If Lisa Simpson were not a yellow-skinned cartoon character, I'm sure that she would rely on Anthropologie's shabby chic housewares to decorate her apartment. She might even buy a new red dress or two from the selection on their well-organised racks. Whether the wares attracted a brainy clientele or the brainy clientele demanded a certain type of product is hard to say... it's all chickens and eggs, anyway. Suffice it to say that if you're looking for something unique, be it a pair of shoes, a doorknob or a necklace, Anthropologie is the only place you need to look for it.

Bath and Body Works - Multiple locations in Seattle
I admit it. I actually think that Bath and Body Works is totally obnoxious and I cannot fathom why anyone would bother to queue for an hour just to get a deal on their anti-bacterial hand soap. But I have severe allergies to both fragrances and most soaps, so I'm probably a little biased. In spite of how I feel about the chain, its popularity is undeniable- particularly with cross-border shoppers whose own home cities do not yet have an established location in their own mall- which is why I've included it. Well, that and it does have one- but only one- redeeming quality: C.O. Bigelow Mentha Lip Shine, by far the best lip-gloss money can buy. (The big bonus; it's a bargain, running at about 6$.)

Buffalo Exchange - 4530 University Way NE
Part thrift store, part consignment store, part clothing swap... The concept behind Buffalo Exchange is one of the most brilliant I have ever come across. About a year ago, I was in the process of getting ready to move and had a pile of beautiful, pretty much like-new clothes, none of which had been cheap, that I needed rid myself of, but didn't want to give away. I wanted them to be appreciated. After being laughed out of several consignment boutiques in my hometown because my clothes were "too small," however, it seemed like I wouldn't have many other options than a charity bin. Then I discovered Buffalo Exchange. The store is stocked entirely with items brought in by shoppers. You can trade clothes for cash on the spot- and make more than you would at a consignment store. Or, if thrifting is your thing, you can also trade your old clothes for store credit. (You get more credit than you would get cash, if you choose that option.) If they don't want everything you've brought in, there is a charity bin in the store, too, so you know that your clothes will be going somewhere. I have never bought anything here myself, but I have made money; there are girls in Minneapolis and Seattle wearing my old jeans, and one lucky girl has scored a pair of fabulous red pumps that my feet stubbornly refused to grow into. Prices are extremely affordable but, of course, the stock varies. Still, as far as I'm concerned, Buffalo Exchange is not to be missed.

DSW Shoe Source - 401 Northeast Northgate Way (at Northgate Mall)
Much to my chagrin, I am infinitely practical. I can rationalise buying five pairs of expensive black heels, knowing I will get my money's worth out of them... but when it comes to that one amazing pair of gold platforms, I hesitate, and eventually balk, doubting how much I will wear them. If it weren't for DSW, I might not have any impractical shoes at all! This enormous shoestore is at once completely overwhelming and absolutely inviting. There are literally thousands of brand-name shoes for sale, all at discount prices. To avoid walking away empty-handed because you were spoiled for choice and simply couldn't make a decision- it's happened to me- I suggest going in with an idea of what you want. On my last visit, I made it my mission to find a pair of gladiator sandals. I tried on at least ten pairs before settling on a Steve Madden pair that were bargain priced at less than thirty dollars. Not as practical as I am? Go ahead- buy ten pairs of shoes! It's nothing the sales people haven't seen (or done themselves) before.

Express - Multiple locations in Seattle
I know, I know. The ads you've seen for Express look a little cheap, maybe even a little trashy. I was skeptical myself the first time I visited the store. Frankly, some of their merchandise still makes me raise my eyebrows. But mixed in with those immodestly short gold sequined dresses are good quality, low-priced basics. Stock up on layering pieces and sale items. And if you've always wanted a gold sequined dress but are worried you might not be able to pull it off- or want to pull it off more than once- the prices here are low enough that you won't regret only wearing it once.

Check back tomorrow for more Seattle shopping tips!

Seattle: Where to Eat [II]

2010-05-17T11:08:00.000-07:00

I have spent a cumulative total of about ten days of my life in Seattle. Which is to say that I have discovered more than one amazing eatery every day that I have spent in the Emerald City. Just in case you weren't totally overwhelmed by all of the mouth-watering possibilities in my last post, I'm going to continue listing my favourite places to eat in Seattle.

When in Seattle, you should also indulge yourself at...

Le Panier - 1902 Pike Place
This place touts itself as a "very French bakery." This self-titling seems a bit laughable, until you discover that can smell the scent of baking bread wafting from the shop at least a block before you actually reach Pike Place. Moreover, Le Panier does not pander. They sell roulé aux noix and éclair vanille, not nut rolls and vanilla eclairs. Consumers are forced to have a certain awareness of a culture other than their own should they wish to enjoy Le Panier's bread, or at least be willing to humble themselves before the inherent complexity of the French language to place their order. Even if your tongue stubbornly refuses to roll an r, it is absolutely worth stumbling over pronunciation to be rewarded with a crisp, golden amandine (a croissant filled with almond paste.) If you have ever had so much as a passing interest in bread, do not miss visiting Le Panier.

Racha Noodles and Thai Cuisine - 23 Mercer Street
By now you're probably starting to notice a pattern. I do have a passionate love for Thai food. It was love at first taste, on my sixteenth birthday... a love that blossomed in spite of the fact that another patron at the restaurant that night spilled their entire mango smoothie in my lap, and only made the situation worse by trying to clean my lap for me. If I could only eat one dish for the rest of my life, I would choose pad thai without hesitation. I seek it out in every city I visit, and found one of my favourite versions here. Racha Noodles and Thai Cuisine should not be confused with Racha Thai, the mall restaurant that is the higher-end sister restaurant of Noodle Zone/Thai Go. This is an independent establishment that serves excellent cuisine deserving of true recognition. Aside from the mandatory pad thai (which is called pud thai at Racha, for whatever inexplicable reason), I highly recommend the spring rolls and the chef's specialty, royal duck curry.

Starbucks and Seattle's Best Coffee - Multiple locations in Seattle
Seattle is a coffee drinker's paradise. (Personally, I'm a tea drinker... Although I have yet to find an establishment that poured hot water badly, I still feel a slight pang of jealousy every time I go to a coffee shop and watch three people in line ahead of me collect potent drinks crowned with whipped cream and caramel syrup.) If you're an avid fan of a particular latte, or just need your daily caffeine fix, I offer you a challenge. Sample Starbucks and Seattle's Best Coffee, both of which have outposts on almost every block in the downtown area, and let me know which outlet really serves the city's best coffee.

Sweetie's Candy - 1501 Pike Place

Although it's been several years since I could accurately be called "a kid", candy stores still thrill me. This tiny, standing-room-only emporium is no exception. Lined wall-to-wall with old-fashioned glass jars of sour soothers, gum drops and chocolate chews, Sweetie's is a diabetic coma just waiting to happen. Traveller's with a sweet tooth really cannot miss this shop. I return time and time again for a favourite treat that I have yet to find anywhere else: Almond Joy M&Ms. Drooling yet?

Trophy Cupcakes - 2612 North East Village Lane
Cupcake shops seem to be popping up everywhere these days, and I have to admit, I do wonder how you can run a successful bakery that only sells one thing. The key, clearly, is in the flavours. Trophy Cupcakes may only sell cupcakes, but on any given day there are five standard and seven daily varieties to choose from. Chai Cardamom and Chocolate Covered Pretzel cupcakes sound exciting, but it's the icing that can make or break a cupcakery. Rest assured, Trophy Cupcakes' buttercream is sweet but not cloying, rich but not heavy. Located in University Village Mall, this is the perfect place to take a shopping break and indulge. I highly recommend visiting on Monday, Wednesday, Friday or Sunday. After all, you can get a chocolate cupcake just about anywhere these days. But on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday, Trophy Cupcakes bakes their Hummingbird special, a banana pineapple coconut cake with cream cheese icing, a cupcake truly worthy of distinction among its peers.

Check back soon for tips on where to shop in Seattle!

Seattle: Where to Eat

2010-05-14T10:54:00.000-07:00

There will be no Seattle: Where not to Eat post. I have yet to suffer even a mediocre food experience, never mind a bad one, in my favourite US city- and to underline just how significant that pronouncement is, you should know that I have eaten at McDonald's in Seattle. More. Than. Once.

That said, I'm not about to put McDonald's on a list of my favourite Seattle restaurants. There are limits to all things.

If you're the type of tourist- and I am- who likes to eat your way through a destination, Seattle is a great place to visit. There are many more fabulous places to eat than I can list here... I'm dying to try a whole list of new ones on my trip two weeks from now (and share them all with you, of course.)... but even if you only have the chance to visit one of these places while you're in the Emerald City, I can promise that you won't be disappointed. From fresh cheese to perfect pad thai and strong coffee, Seattle has it all.

When you're in Seattle, you can't go wrong sampling confections at...

Beecher's Handmade Cheese - 1600 Pike Place
Open at Pike Place Market since 2002, this shop has become a veritable mecca for cheese-lovers. You won't be able to miss it... in fact, don't be surprised if you find yourself with your nose pressed against the outer window, watching a vat of milk being turned into cheese curd. If you're hungry, Beecher's offers some sandwiches- all cheese, of course- and other cheesy baked goods. If you just can't resist taking something home for later, they have all the staples you need... cheese, crackers and even their own macaroni and cheese (it comes in several varieties, including my favourite, the spicy Mariachi Mac and Cheese.) Try all the samples that are available; there truly is a cheese for everyone here, and you want to find the right one for you. Sampled everything and still can't decide? I recommend the Marco Polo; Beecher's flagship cheese infused with Madagascar peppercorns.

Chipotle Mexican Grill - Three locations in Seattle
Technically, Chipotle serves fastfood. But the term fast really only refers to the time it takes for them to prepare it. This create-your-own Tex-Mex joint uses fresh ingredients like pinto beans, braised barbacoa beef and handmade guacamole to create to-die-for burritos and tacos. The set-up is a bit like Subway... you wander down the Ford-like food assembly line, choosing what will go into your meal. In an ideal world, we would all have time to go to real Tex-Mex restaurants or, better still, make our own burritos. But sometimes you're in a hurry, and just because you're pressed for time doesn't mean you should suffer with sub-par food. In that way, Chipotle combines the best of both worlds, offering wholesome food for people on the go. [But be aware: this is still a restaurant. The food may be wholesome, but it isn't low-calorie, and portions are enormous. I recommend skipping the rice if you want to be able to finish your food.]

Cold Stone Creamery - 624 North 34th Street
This "old fashioned" ice cream shop makes Dairy Queen look like a Mickey Mouse operation. Their concept of "mix-ins" (stuff you put on your ice cream, in other words) has been made fun of in many popular TV shows, but even if the corporate culture is a bit laughable, you have to give credit where credit it due: Cold Stone Creamery knows ice cream. If you want to spoil your dinner, this is the place to be. Take a friend for their birthday, and they will never forget it. The only problem I've ever seen anyone have here is when trying to decide what to have. I recommend the Cheesecake Fantasy or, for the young at heart, Cookie Doughn't You Want Some (an unholy but delectable combination of vanilla ice cream, chocolate chips, cookie dough fudge and caramel.)

Mae Phim Thai Cuisine - 213 Pike Street

I stumbled upon this tiny Thai restaurant quite accidentally on my last visit to Seattle. It was late, dark out and I had a craving for noodles... but nowhere seemed to be open. And I mean nowhere, not just no places that serve noodles. Then I crossed the street and saw Mae Phim's glowing sign. The restaurant may not look like much from the outside, but what it lacks in atmosphere and size, it makes up in taste. Prices are very reasonable- pad thai runs at about six dollars- but definitely don't reflect the quality of the food. This restaurant makes pad thai exactly the way I like it; not ketchupy, just sweet, sour and delicious. Not one to miss out on anything, I sampled everyone's food. I can therefore say with certainty that the kao lao moo soup, coconut battered shrimp and pineapple chicken are all excellent. If I could have ordered seconds, I would have. Mae Phim is a must for anyone who likes Thai food.

Noodle Zone/Thai Go - Westlake Centre
My love of the combined Noodle Zone/Thai Go in Westlake Centre has nothing to do with the food being particularly good or the ambiance exciting. This place is nothing more than an outlet in a food court. Its next-door neighbour is MacDonald's. As far as food court food is concerned, you could do far worse than Noodle Zone/Thai Go; on the scale of relative healthfulness, they probably rate highly. The real reason I keep coming back here is that they serve a particular dish that appeals to me on every level: fettucini with peanut sauce, served with garlic toast. I love pasta, I love peanuts, I love garlic, I love carbohydrates... for me, this dish is it. And no one else on earth serves it. There are lots of other more authentic things on the menu that are probably better options if your tastebuds aren't exactly like mine. But if you have to- or choose to- eat food court cuisine, this is the place to go.

Pizzeria Pagliacci - Nine locations in Seattle

Recently, a surge of new "gourmet" pizza restaurants have opened in Seattle. While I love truffle oil and expensive cheese as much as anyone has any right to, there is something to be said for a simple pizza with tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese. Pizzeria Pagliacci has been serving exactly that since 1979. This is a no-frills, cafeteria-style establishment that does a lot of delivery business. Pizza is sold by the slice, so your choices depend on when you arrive... but sometimes that's half the fun. Reading a menu, I would never choose a pizza with black olives. And yet, the AGOG Primo, with mushrooms, roasted garlic, kalamatas, goat cheese, fontina, mozzarella and tomatoes, is hands down my favourite Pagliacci creation; one that I discovered on a visit when pepperoni was my other option. Eating at Pizzeria Pagliacci is a great way to experience Seattle culture- after thirty years, the restaurant is a local establishment- and enjoy good food. You can't really ask for more than that.

More great Seattle restaurants still to come!

Bienvenue!

2010-05-13T12:23:00.000-07:00

Bonjour mes chers,
     Welcome to the new and improved One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags! Take a look around and let me know how you feel about the new location, layout, look, etc., etc.
      Enjoy!
      And never fear, that long-promised post about Seattle's best restaurants will be online tomorrow at the latest!

Bisous,
      Cee

Seattle: What (not) to See [III]

2010-05-10T09:32:00.000-07:00

While some people might say that a tourist attraction is a tourist attraction, a seasoned traveller knows that like the pigs in George Orwell's Animal Farm, some tourist attractions are more equal than others. Like any other city, Seattle has as many hits as it has misses. I can't claim to speak for all travellers. In fact, some of the sites on this list are great for families or the elderly... But when I'm in the city, I happily skip them.

When in Seattle, don't worry if you miss visiting...

Space Needle

"They're gonna build a skyscraper seven storeys high... that's about as high as a building oughta go!" sings one dated performer in the musical Oklahoma! The fact is, there was a time in recent history when skylines were short, flat things. When architects began building skyscrapers, everyone wanted one. Paris has the Eiffel Tower; New York the Empire State Building; Toronto the CN Tower. A major city just isn't a major city without a really big building, and while I could delve into the psychology of male politicians who started their lives as insecure boys in the junior high changeroom, that seems like an unneccessary digression. Suffice it to say that a big building is a status symbol, and Seattle's importance in the world is thus proven by the Space Needle, a 605-foot monstrosity built for the 1962 World's Fair. From the top, you can see the Olympic and Cascade Mountains, Mount Rainier, Mount Baker, Elliott Bay and the Downtown Seattle skyline. If you find panoramic views exciting, by all means, the Space Needle is for you. If you work on the 15th floor of a 22-storey building like I do, you probably won't want to bother.

Experience the Music Project

If you are travelling with (a) a young child; (b) a bored husband, boyfriend, brother or father; (c) an aspiring rock star; or (d) anyone else who is driving you insane or in any way disrupting your Seattle plans, drop them off at the Experience the Music Project, an interactive museum that allows kids of all ages to play, make all kinds of obnoxious noise and be generally disruptive in an environment where it is totally acceptable to do so. This is not an attraction for those whose taste in music could be described as ambivalent. It is also not for people who dislike loud noises (you know who you are, and should you choose to visit anyway, be warned: there is an installation called Sound Lab, and another called On Stage. Enough said.) It is, however, great family entertainment, and on a scale of comparative annoyance, infinitely preferable to Fun Forest Amusements Park.

Monorail

Seattle has a monorail. Like many other things in the city, it was built for the World's Fair in 1962. Sadly, it has been beset with problems ever since. Most recently, the entire system was shut down from November 2005 to August 2006 following a collision... and shut down again after only eight days in operation, until November 2006, after a stall that trapped 200 passengers. The trains have been running smoothly since their 2006 reopening. The Seattle monorail is like any other. If you've never been on one, try this out; a round-trip fair will only set you back $4. If you've already done this Disney monorail, you can probably guess that this one isn't going to change your life anymore than it did.

Check back soon for more Seattle travel tips!

Seattle: What to See [II]

2010-05-07T09:31:00.000-07:00

If you have a few days to explore Seattle- and can tear yourself away from all the edible and collectible wonders at Pike Place Market- there are some lesser known, and certainly less conventional places that I think are more than worth visiting. If you're a curious traveller who wants to experience the city they're visiting in a more in-depth and authentic way, these sites are not to be missed.

When you're in Seattle, investigate these unusual gems...

Elliott Bay Book Company

This store is heaven for book lovers. Open since 1973, Elliot Bay Book Company is not just a book store, but an institution. Looking for a particular book that's proving hard to find? It just might be on one of the never-ending shelves here. (And if not, don't despair- special order service is available.) Even if you rarely feel inclined to read anything that isn't posted online, this store is an experience. And if you're travelling with a group of book lovers, never fear; there's a café in the basement where you can relax and have a snack while they fawn over obscure titles on the upper floors.

Note: The Pioneer Square store has recently been closed... You can now visit Elliott Bay Book Company at 1521 Tenth Avenue.

Starbucks - Pike Place Market

I know, I know. Starbucks is an obnoxious chain that has been bombarding the world- and the West Coast of North America in particular- with overpriced, sub par but extremely caffeinated beverages for far too long. I shudder a little when I see the green sign, too. But this is where it all began. The first Starbucks location opened at 2000 Western avenue in Seattle in 1971. It has been at 1912 Pike Place since 1976. I won't lie and tell you that the drinks are any different here. This is still Starbucks- if you love it, you'll love this; if you don't, this is a little like going into the belly of the beast. And that makes it all the more interesting, because there is absolutely nothing to distinguish this coffee shop from any other coffee shop on earth. You won't be able to help wondering how they managed to take over the world.

Uwajimaya

For a grocery store, this place has an incredible history. Starting in 1928, Fujimatsu Moriguchi, a Japanese immigrant, began selling fish cakes out of the back of his truck in Tacoma. His customers were mainly Japanese laborers in Puget Sound. Business continued until 1942, when Mr. Moriguchi and his family were placed in an internment camp in California. After the war, they relocated to Seattle and re-opened the Uwajimaya business as a retail store ans fish cake manufacturer in Seattle's pre-war Japantown. They began importing food and gifts from Japan, cementing themselves in the community. When the World's Fair came to Seattle in 1962, Uwajimaya came out to greet the world, offering Asian cooking classes and expanding their stock to include various Asian grocery items. Today, Uwajimaya has expanded into a 66,000 square foot retail complex that includes a bank, Asian food court, bookstore and apartment complex in addition to the groceteria. Pretty impressive for something that started in the back of a truck!

Pigs on Parade

You might wonder, Why pigs? I did. The fact is, in 1971, Pike Place Market was set for demolition. Seattle citizens voted to save it, and along with it, vital social services for low-income residents of the area. In order to raise the needed funds, a piggy bank was established. Literally. A large, gold-coloured pig designed by Gloria Gerber has lived at Pike Place Market ever since. In honour of the anniversary of this event- and the hundredth anniversary of the still-standing Pike Place Market- one hundred local artists designed their own pigs. Many of the pigs were removed from their homes around the city and auctioned off to local bidders, but a few still remain, gleefully adorning sidewalks and hotel lobbies. See how many you can find while you're exploring the city!

Know of a fabulous Seattle attraction that I've missed? Don't keep it to yourself... leave a comment!

Seattle: What to See [I]

2010-05-06T09:28:00.000-07:00

Like most kids who grow up in Winnipeg, I have spent an inordinate amount of time in Grand Forks, North Dakota, a small city of little consequence that is home to the University of North Dakota and, more importantly, a Super Target. I have visited many states outside of North Dakota as a regular tourist, but Grand Forks left me with an indelible conception of what a city just across the border should- and could- be.

Seattle blew that wide open.

I am as guilty as anyone of going to Seattle strictly for the purpose of avoiding tax on online orders from J. Crew and buying an obscene amount of novelty junkfood. But the city has vastly more to offer visitors than a novel shopping experience. I'm not saying you shouldn't go to J. Crew while you're there. I never miss it. What I mean is that there are a lot of other places you should go first.

When in Seattle, you absolutely must visit...

Pike Place Market

Open since 1907, this farmers market encompasses several city blocks and multiple levels. Wander among the fresh-flower vendors and fishmongers at street level before exploring the plethora of oddities downstairs. From antiques and comic books to Chinese food and dusty records, Pike Place Market is a dream come true for amateur photographers. Take your time. Get lost. Leave and come back. There's no way to possibly take it all in on your first- or even your third- visit. Don't shy away from anything. Sure, the skinned fish with their tongues hanging out are a bit off-putting, but they're part of the experience. Make sure to buy yourself a $5 bouquet of brown paper-wrapped flowers and some fresh food on your way out. If you don't, you'll only regret it.

Pioneer Square

This is where it all began. After spending six months at Alki Point, the first Seattle settlers moved to this neighbourhood. They built their homes out of wood and, consequently, none are left today. Seattle had a great fire in 1889, and nearly everything was destroyed. By the next year, dozens of brick and stone buildings had sprung up in their place. The term Skid Row originated here. Yesler Way, the dividing street between east and west Pioneer Square, is sometimes known as "The Deadline." It was the northern border of an area once called Maynardtown. Respectable people didn't go below "The Deadline", for risk of finding themselves in Skid Row, home to parlour houses, brothels, pawnshops, hash houses, dope parlours, dumps and dives. Even police didn't cross Yesler Way unless they were travelling in a team. Venereal disease was virtually out of control in the neighbourhood. Today, Pioneer Square is home to gorgeous 19th century arcitechture; The Merchant's Café, Seattle's oldest restaurant; totem poles and even a few Skid Row era marquees.

Waterfall Garden Park

While technically located in the Pioneer Square neighbourhood, this gated park is a new addition to the area and not something you would neccessarily find if you weren't looking for it. Erected on the site where United Parcel Service was founded in honour of the men and women who have served the company, this Japanese-style garden is commonly referred to as a tranquil oasis by employees from nearby offices who spend their lunch hours relaxing here. When you're in Pioneer Square, stop by... it's like entering a different world.

University of Washington

The University of Washington is one of the preeminent research universities in the world, and its magnificent Seattle campus is a testament to its status. The sprawling university district is a vibrant community unto itself, with research facilities and lecture halls spread out within its borders. It almost calls to mind the La Sorbonne magnificent schools scattered throughout Paris' romantic and decidedly youthful Quartier Latin. The University of Washington is the American University that is more impressive than the characters in so many forgettable college movies... all red brick and white columns and gracefully fluttering flags. In that the neighbourhood is inhabited largely by young adults, it is also home to many of Seattle's best pizza-by-the-slice joints, second-hand clothing stores and an enormous Urban Outfitters outlet. If you've ever been nostalgic for the 1950s TV America- the one that never really existed- this is the place you're most likely to find it.

Check back tomorrow for more great Seattle sites!

Seattle: Where to Stay [Apartments]

2010-05-05T09:14:00.000-07:00

Vacation apartments are decidedly less commonplace in North America than they are in Europe. I suspect this is at least partly because of the large market share taken up by timeshare properties, which offer all the same perks as vacation apartments but have the added bonus of guaranteed maintenance and ownership bonuses. But it most certainly has to do with the fact that North American tourist destinations are spread out over a much more vast landscape than European ones. It's rare to hear of travellers backpacking across the USA, whereas backpacking in Europe is almost a rite of passage of university-age North Americans... It's easy. Travel time between destinations is short, and every destination offers something to see.

I don't like to disparage my own continent, but North America just isn't like that. Give us another thousand years.

In the meantime, VRBO and HomeAway offer a selection of vacation rental properties in Seattle. Vacation apartments in Seattle can also be rented from Sea to Sky Rentals, a Seattle-based company that owns thirty rentals properties within the city, all located conveniently for relatively easy access to tourist destinations. Rentals are available on a nightly, weekly or monthly basis. [If you're driving to Seattle, be aware: many of the Sea to Sky Rentals units do not offer parking.]

Need an apartment in Seattle? Why not try one of these...

Elektra #1305 Downtown Sleeps 2 301 square feet

$85-150 night/$500-978 week/$1500 month 1 bathroom

Amenities include: Onsite laundry, high speed internet, TV, DVD player, dishwasher, rooftop deck

West Seattle Suite West Seattle Sleeps 3 700 square feet

$95-150 night/$620-978 week/$1500 month 0.75 bathroom

Amenities include: Washer, dryer, WiFi, TV, DVD player, iPod dock, deck

Belltown Court Studio Belltown Sleeps 4 466 square feet

$140-235 night/$910-1500 week 1 bathroom

Amenities include: Washer, dryer, air conditioning, telephone, high speed internet, TV, DVD player, dishwasher, Juliette balconey, shared swimming pool, rooftop deck

Metropolitan Tower #1011 Downtown Sleeps 4 896 square feet

$150-294 night/$975-1920 week/$1995 month 1 bedroom, 1 bathroom

Amenities include: Washer, dryer, air conditioning, WiFi, TV, DVD player, iPod dock, dishwasher, balconey, shared swimming pool

Harbour Steps #1520 Downtown Sleeps 6 1065 square feet

$225-390 night/$1500-2520 week/$3100 month 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms

Amenities include: Washer, dryer, air conditioning, WiFi, TV, DVD player, dishwasher, balconey, shared swimming pool

Be sure to visit the Sea to Sky Rentals website to see more photos of these gorgeous vacation apartments!

Paris en Printemps

2010-04-30T09:00:00.000-07:00

It's a gorgeous, blue skies and sun kind of day here in Vancouver... the kind of day that reminds me of Paris in late February. There are innumerable things I love about the French capital, but its climate is high on the list. I can't think of anything more agreeable that clear skies and mild temperatures (nearly) all year long.

In honour of my pining for Paris, I've compiled a list of my new favourite apartments for rent from Ah Paris. (You'll probably notice that a lot of them are in the same arrondissements... I have to admit, I did concentrate on areas I'd want to stay while spending my springtime in Paris. Many are also more expensive than my usual picks, but let's face it; I'm fantasising.) Their list of vacation rentals is modified and added to constantly... so much so that they have added a See our Latest Listing feature on their homepage.

If you're lucky enough to be spending springtime in Paris, consider renting one of these apartments...

#102 4eme arrondissement (M) Rambuteau Sleeps 4 41m²

120€ night/800€/2400€ month Minimum stay: 3 nights

Amenities include: TV, Telephone, WiFi, oven, dishwasher, washer, dryer

Everything about this apartment is lovely, but the bathroom is particularly inspired... still a rare thing in Paris!

#225 4eme arrondissement (M) Hôtel-de-Ville Sleeps 2 25m²

95€ night/580€/1600€ month Minimum stay: 3 nights

Amenities include: TV, DVD, telephone, WiFi

This apartment has so much Parisian charm that I'm willing to overlook the almost total lack of amenities.

#277 4eme arrondissement (M) Saint-Paul Sleeps 5 32m²

108€ night/750€/2835€ month Minimum stay: 5 nights

Amenities include: TV, internet access, oven

#317 12eme arrondissement (M) Reuilly-Diderot Sleeps 4 38m²

94€ night/658€/1974€ month Minimum stay: 3 nights

Amenities include: TV, DVD, WiFi, oven, dishwasher, washer, dryer

Between the loft bed, stylish decor and immaculate bathroom, I really can't decide what my favourite part of this apartment is... probably all of it!

#332 4eme arrondissement (M) Bastille Sleeps 4 42m²

120€ night/800€/2500€ month Minimum stay: 3 nights

Amenities include: TV, DVD, telephone, WiFi, oven, dishwasher, washer, dryer, bathtub

This apartment comes with a veritable library... what more need I say?

#351 2eme arrondissement (M) Réaumur-Sébastopol Sleeps 4 40m

160€ night/935€/2265€ month Minimum stay: 3 nights

Amenities include: TV, WiFi, oven, dishwasher, washer, dryer, bathtub

I just love the turquoise accents!

#352 4eme arrondissement (M) Rambuteau Sleeps 3 30m²

125€ night/875€/2625€ month Minimum stay: 3 nights

Amenities include: TV, telephone, WiFi, oven, bathtub

#360 9eme arrondissement (M) Pigalle Sleeps 2 15m²

85€ night/595€/1785€ month Minimum stay: 3 nights

Amenities include: TV, DVD, WiFi, oven

I admit, this one is pretty tiny... but it's immaculate and adorable, perfect for a girls weekend away.

#399 18eme arrondissement (M) Jules-Joffrin Sleeps 2 35m²

100€ night/700€/2100€ month Minimum stay: 2 nights

What this apartment lacks in amenities- and there are virtually none- it more than makes up in style.

Seattle: Where to Stay [Hotels]

2010-04-29T08:50:00.000-07:00

Staying in a luxury hotel in Seattle is a waste of money. There is so much to do in the city that you will scarcely see the inside of your hotel room. Forget the swimming pool, sauna and name-brand bath products- all you really need is a place to rest your head at night.

Seattle is a beautiful city that people want to visit. It should follow that all accommodations will be expensive, particularly if you're travelling between May 1st and September 30th. [Prices also go up on long weekends. If you can, for more reasons that just the price flux, avoid travelling on President's Day (the third Monday in February), Memorial Day (the last Monday in May), Independence Day (July 4th) and- I cannot stress this enough- Thanksgiving (November 11th).] Even if you really only need a place to sleep, rather than a place to stay, it's important that you get what you pay for. While most hotels in a similar price range are created equally, they are not all maintained equally... And more than a nice hotel, you want to book one that doesn't have fleas, bedbugs or other vermin.

With that in mind, I've picked out a few places to stay in Seattle that are worth every penny. And a few that should pay guests for suffering with them.

When visiting Seattle, try booking a hotel room at...

Marriott Residence Inn - Seattle Downtown Lake Union 800 Fairview Avenue North

This is hands down my favourite hotel in Seattle. The location, next to Lake Union and near- but not right in- downtown is unbeatable. While the outside of the building is nothing extraordinary, the interior is impressive- rooms are all along the outside of the building, leaving an almost breathtaking cylindrical, high-ceiling lobby that is far more imaginative than anything you'll find in most large chain hotels. The rooms are magnificent; comfortable, spacious and never anything less than immaculately clean. Complimentary continental breakfast is served daily in the tiered common area- the spread includes, but is not limited to, a waffle station, fresh local pastry, fruit, oatmeal and eggs. Parking is available, but there is also a transit stop right outside. Although expensive during high season, the Residence Inn offers excellent prices in the winter and cannot be matched for price/quality parity by any other hotel I have ever stayed at. As far as I'm concerned, it deserves five stars.

Silver Cloud Inn - Seattle Lake Union 1150 Fairview Avenue North

The Silver Cloud Inn at Lake Union has unadulterated views of Lake Union, lovely accommodations and a generous complimentary breakfast. But what won me over was none of those things... it was the giant, jewel-encrusted pig in the lobby. I have heard it called an art-pig. Frankly, I'm not sure how I feel about that term, but the pig goes a long way to distinguish the Silver Cloud Inn from other mid-range, mid-priced hotels. The Silver Cloud Inn is no Holiday Inn. The chain is local, with no hotels outside Washington and Oregon, and their participation in the Pigs on Parade event (held in both 2001 and 2007, in honour of the pig who has long graced the Pike Place Market) is a testament to that. For an authentic Seattle experience, this is the place to stay.

Capitol Hill Guesthouse 1808 East Denny Way

Part bed-and-breakfast, part-vacation apartment, Capitol Hill Guesthouse is located in a character home on Denny Way. Offering both short- and long-term rentals, this guesthouse is not for travellers who need a lot of attention. However, if you want a nice place to stay with access to kitchen facilities (and if you're looking for something affordable that isn't in Everett or Tacoma), Capitol Hill Guesthouse may be the place for you. Some rooms have private baths, some do not. I have not stayed here personally, but have been in contact with the staff on several occasions and find them very helpful. Best of all, parking is available at no extra cost! Although all rooms are well-kept, I would advise tall travellers to avoid the basement rooms... the ceilings are reportedly quite low.

When in Seattle, you must not stay at...

Sixth Avenue Inn 2000 6th Avenue

My brief stay at the Sixth Avenue Inn is the only bad experience I have had with anything in Seattle. Ideally located within walking distance of Pike Place Market and Seattle's downtown shopping area, this hotel has nothing going for it other than its street address. To say it is dingy is diplomatic. The entrance, located below street level, is poorly lit and has not been updated since the early 1980s. A pervasive smell of stale cigarette smoke fills the entire building. The beds are hard, the sheets scratchy and the approach to cleanliness cavalier at best. One night here is too much. No matter how low the price, just remember... you get what you pay for.

Know a fabulous place to stay in Seattle... ? Make sure to share it in the comments section!

Welcome to the Emerald City!

2010-04-28T15:45:00.000-07:00

I think I love Seattle because I believe if the city were a girl, she would be much like me. Outwardly pretty and stylish but undeniably quirky and brainy, at times too smart for her own good... attracted to brick architecture, a fan of old school punk, always dressed in skinny jeans and positively allergic to anything remotely resembling a trend.

I can identify with Seattle.

Seattle illustrates perfectly what I find most fascinating about the United States. I grew up in Central-Eastern Canada, and spend my childhood visiting the Dakotas, Wisconsin, Minnesota and Florida. Each of those states is utterly distinct... Florida is a deep south as can be; all gators and grits, while Minnesota is a subtle, sprawling land of unassuming wealth and unexpected sophistication. But the dichotomy between East and West is even more polarised, almost as much as the gulf between South and North.

I will grant that each Canadian province is distinct from all of the others, but our country simply has not been around long enough to develop the kind of history with which the United States is imbued. We have never fought a civil war. Our politicians strive to unite us by choosing the least widely offensive course of action in any given situation (hence Mr. Harper's recent decision not to include safe and legal abortion in his G8 maternal health plan, claiming that the abortion issue- in spite of having been a non-issue since it became legal in the 1970s- is too divisive.) Provincial cuisine is limited to carnival food like poutine and beavertails. But I digress...

The American West Coast is not the laid-back hippie paradise that it has been painted by stereotypes. Seattle likely has twice as many burger joints as health food stores. But year round fresh air and mild temperatures do allow for an sense of pervasive healthy activity. People walk. They bike. They climb. Public transit is a well-used resource rather than a sadly neglected neccessity. Relatively isolated from much of the country and culturally distant from neighbouring Idaho, Washington- and Seattle in particular- vibrates with the kind of creativity bred from a sense difference. The city is a veritable hot bed of independent music, a haven for writers and the birthplace of Amazon.com. It counts Jimi Hendrix and Gypsy Rose Lee among its native children.

What makes Seattle truly unique is that it is a small city that feels big. Although the metropolitan area is home to less than 600,000 people- few enough that the concept of a public market is not only feasible but successful- that has never held back its progress or expansion. Seattle has everything that bigger cities have- world class cuisine, breathtaking landscapes, buildings in various fascinating states of decay... - but its size allows for an intimacy that New York and Los Angeles have long since lost. It will at once captivate and embrace you.

Getting ready for a wild ride... Seattle is like nowhere you've ever been.

Adios Barcelona!

2010-04-23T15:43:00.000-07:00

As some of you might have guessed, I've been avoiding this post. There's something heartbreaking about leaving a beautiful city behind, even if it is only in writing. Saying good-bye to Paris after spending months expounding on all that I love about it was almost more than I could bear. I know the cliché about all good things coming to an end, but frankly, I think that's unfair and, rather than accepting it as a fact, will continue to rail against it for the rest of my adult life. I can't help it; that's just me.

All that said, I have run out of valuable information about Barcelona to share with you all. At the end of the day, my recommendations are a place to start, but they won't get you all the way there. Travelling is about discovering things for yourself and making your own memories. I challenge you all to find your own favourite hotels, restaurants and shops in Barcelona - or wherever it is that you're going next. (And, of course, tell me what they are so I can test them, too!) There's no feeling quite like walking through a dingy little doorway and finding a beautiful, aromatic restaurant on the other side. Not every little dingy doorway you find will open onto that kind of wonderful mystery. But turn those doorknobs, anyway... because you never know what glorious experiences you might miss out on if you don't.

That said, farewell Barcelona!

Our next stop on the One Suitcase, Seven Shopping Bags tour is London, England. I must admit, I had some misgivings about even including London as a voting option. It has never been my favourite city, which I believe can be explained by the simple fact that I like my foreign destinations to be truly foreign. Without a language barrier, unusual architecture or unfamiliar cuisine, London seems- to me, anyway- like home, with an accent. But since the capital of the United Kingdom won the vote, I've had nothing but enthusiastic responses... and I'm intrigued to find out what all the fuss is about.

But before London, we're going on a little detour... to Seattle, Washington. Since my first visit in 2006, I have not been able to contain my enthusiasm for the Emerald City. Vancouver is my home, and I love it, but I can't help thinking of Seattle as its prettier, more sophisticated older sister. I'm going to spend the next few weeks telling you all about my favourite Seattle hotels, shops, restaurants and attractions.

And then, for a special twist, I will actually be travelling to Seattle. Look for daily updates about my new discoveries starting on May 26th!

Bisous!