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Basic Canon EOS 40D Shooting Modes

2009-09-20T20:51:00.011+08:00

This is a short introductory lesson on the basic shooting modes as found on the Canon 40D.

However, many of these modes are found on all cameras, so it should be helpful to anyone interested in what those little icons mean. I hope you enjoy the video!

Canon EOS 40D Digital SLR camera is a highly recommended for pictures of sports events, art, portraits, landscape, entertainment and travel. Owing to its simple controls, powerful construction, excellent picture quality, quick shutter speed and bright LCD.

Pet Photography

2009-04-18T16:12:00.005+08:00

Story By TJ Tierney Photo By: ChrisY

An area of photography that is becoming extremely popular, pet photography makes for a particularly tough challenge to any newcomer to photography, but if mastered successfully will be very rewarding for you and your customers.

Most families own some form of a pet and the techniques that you will use will be different with each pet you come across. Unlike humans, pets are not going to pose for you, you can’t give them instructions and they won’t sit in a studio posing in front of the camera. So how do you get successful pet photography portraits?

Pets are tricky subjects for any photographer to deal with - a pet photographer requires everlasting patience and must be capable of reacting quickly when the pet does something interesting. Try to think of unusual ways to photograph your pet. With a large pet, shoot in close and use a wide angle lens to emphasise the animal’s large size.

Try working at eye level to the pet, this may mean that you’ll have to get on the ground, and if you do, be careful of the background. Avoid distraction that will take from the pet portrait.

If you are shooting pet birds, take them out of the cage. Make sure that you close all the windows and doors before the shoot. Remove the perch from the cage and place near a window. This is the normal sitting place for the bird and the natural light from the window will give your image some extra mood. Use a macro lens to get in real close and fill the frame on your camera.

Dogs are the easiest pet to photograph. Always keep the owner of the pet on hand. Dogs will take commands from the owner and make your job a lot easier.

Bait may be used in controlling some pets. A small ball can be handy if you are photographing kittens. Placing food in a garden will also help in getting a pet to stay still. Young pets won’t stay still for two long so you must react quickly. Garden pets can also be easy to photograph. Rabbits will laze around the garden nibbling on grass and may make for an interesting image.

Shoot the pet in the hands of the owner or in the hands of children. This will create extra sales.

Pet photography can be a very profitable market if done correctly. Images of pets are used all over the world in magazines and other photography publications. After taking a photograph of a pet ask the owner if they will sign a release form that allows you to sell the pet image. Make sure that you carry these release forms at all times. While this may not be needed - it may save you hassle in the future when selling the pet photograph.

About the author:
TJ Tierney is an award winning Irish Landscape photographer. For more tips you can visit his photography site. To view his images visit his on-line gallery of pictures of Ireland or see his travel site.
Article Source: http://www.Free-Articles-Zone.com

Canon EOS 5D Mark II AND Nikon D3x Digital Camera Review

2009-03-31T16:56:00.015+08:00

Review By: Richard Walker

Canon has always been associated with some great futuristic technology in camera. In 2005 they had announced a new DSLR category when they had introduced their EOS 5 D model. This model was compact and had a full frame sensor. However, with the introduction of new cameras from Sony and Nikon, Canon has introduced an upgraded model namely the Canon EOS Mark II.

The Canon EOS 5 D Mark II has scored an edge over its predecessors in resolution and many other features. This camera is way ahead of Nikon and Sony in terms of resolution and features. The Canon EOS 5 D Mark II has some great features like 21 mega-pixels, 1080p video, 3.0 VGA LCD, Live View, higher capacity battery and lots more.

The Canon EOS 5 D Mark II Camera has anti dust features which means you don't have to worry about the dust clouding your lenses. It has a DIGIC 4 processor with 14-bit analogue to digital conversion capacity. The shooting rate has improved from 3 fps in its predecessors to an astonishing 3.9 fps.

We all know that Canon cameras give you great quality still pictures, but did you know that the Canon EOS 5 D Mark II is the first DSLR by Canon with high definition (HD) recording feature of 1920 X 1080 pixels (1080 p) at a speed of 30fps? This still camera boosts of the best quality video recording in full HD. The LCD screen has now increased to 3 inch and a resolution of 920 k dot/VGA. You can even connect your camera to HDTV with the HDMI port provided and a resolution of 1920 x 1080 pixels.

The viewfinder of Canon EOS 5 D Mark II boosts of a coverage of 98% and the shutter speed is 150k cycles and 6 AF assist points with 9-point AF system. The Canon EOS 5 D camera is one of the best cameras today for all the photographers whether amateur or professional.

Nikon D3X review

Nikon D3 X camera boosts of a high resolution and comes equipped with a full frame sensor. Nikon has been a revered name in photojournalism and sports photography and has now digressed to making high quality image field cameras. The Nikon D3X has a resolution to suit the requirements photographers in the world of art, advertising and fashion.

The Nikon D3X has a reduced burst speed of five frames per second than its predecessor which boasts of a speed of nine frames per second which is primarily due to the high resolution images and increased number of pixels.

The body of D3X is similar to its predecessor D3 and is made of magnesium and has weather proof controls which make the camera ideal for photojournalists and landscape photographers who need to brave the elements for their assignments.

Since this camera has been made primarily keeping landscape photographers in mind it has a great Live View and an auto focus system which can be adjusted and used while the camera is on the tripod stand. The Live View mode also has the virtual horizon display which prevents scary tilts.

A professional studio photographer will find this camera a great help since it can transfer large image files to the computer amidst photo shoots through wireless or cable links.

About the Author
I enjoy taking pictures of my grandchildren and being able to share them with family and friends. Having a good Digital Camera that takes superb pictures makes them so much enjoyable. In my search for a quality digital camera this is the one I found to be the best in its price range and camera reviews at http://www.camerareview-blog.com Article Directory: http://www.articlerich.com

Differences Between Candid Photography and Professional Photographic Portraits

2009-03-18T16:17:00.006+08:00

The secrets of sports photography
Story by : Tassos Makrakis

When discussing types of pictures that can be taken by a professional photographer, there are two main types. Candid photography lends a more personal feel to each photo, and captures life as it is happening. Professional photographic portraits on the other hand, are more about chronicling an event, and preserving it on film in a staged manner. Each method has its own place and time in which it is most appropriate, and the information below will provide you with the main differences between the two styles.

Positioning and Appearance

One of the main differences between candid photography and photographic portraits is in the way they are positioned, and in the way that they appear. Candid photographs are taken on the go when life is happening, and present pictures of an event as it was. Professional photographic portraits however, are staged using sets, props, and a predetermined position. These photographs capture an image and preserve it in the way that it was positioned to look.

The appearance of these two types of photography are quite different, in fact, candid photography can often look like it was not done by a professional at all. It can sweep you away, and remind you of a past event with it easy appearance and candid positioning.

Photographic portraits preserve things in their perfect condition. They allow you to look your best, or capture something or someone in an ideal way. Often, when somebody goes to a professional photography studio or hires a professional photographer, they will opt to have both forms of photography used. That is because while different, these two styles both have their own merits and value.

Equipment That is Used

Another major difference between candid and photographic photography is the equipment that is used for each. Candid photography is usually done with much lighter weight equipment. There is often no need for a tripod, lights, and certainly not backgrounds or props. It is often done outside with natural backdrops, and usually on the go.

Professional photographic photography is quite different on the other hand. It requires the use of heavy equipment, large tripods, elaborate lighting, props and backgrounds, and often other items as well. The idea behind photographic photography is to make an object or person look their very best, and a variety of measures and tools are used to achieve this.

When They Are Used

When looking for differences between candid and photographic photography is important to explore the difference between when they are both used. For instance, photographic photography is better suited for taking still photos that you wish to look professional and staged. These might be wedding photos, children's photos, family photos, or even pictures for cards or invitations.

Candid photography however, is generally used to capture the action of an event. That is why candid photography is often used to capture wildlife, sporting events, wedding receptions, or even news events.

While each of these photography styles has various times and places that they can be used. It is also possible for them to be used in the same situation at roughly the same time. In the example of a wedding, before hand you may wish to have photographic pictures of the wedding party taken. However, during and after the wedding you may wish for a photographer to use candid photography to capture the action in every moment of the day.

Both candid and professional photographic photography have their benefits and appropriate times to be used. While there are differences in these two styles of photography, they both require the skill of a professional photographer in order to present a beautiful finished product. When you know the differences between these two styles of photography, you can make the choice of which one is best for you.

About Author Tassos Makrakis :

At Momento Photoworks, our primary focus is to offer the highest quality of photography, products, and customer service to our clients. We enjoy what we do, and that shows in our beautiful portraits! To learn more about our Markham photo studio, visit us at http://www.themomento.com

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The Essentials to Choosing Photography Lenses

2009-03-04T19:06:00.005+08:00

By: Randall Stevens

Photography lenses are the key elements in photography. The quality of an image is mainly determined by the lens being used. If you are interested in photography, you should understand the various types of lenses used in photography. Once you have your basics right, you can begin your photography experiments.

The most common photography lenses used are the Wide Angle, Normal and Telephoto. These lenses are defined according to their focal length, which determines the amount of magnification and angle of view a lens can see.

Wide Angle Lenses

A Wide Angle lens has a small magnification and a wide angle view. Lenses with 20mm to 35mm are called Wide Angle lenses. These lenses are the preferred choice when it comes to photographing landscapes, sweeping panoramas and other outdoor scenes. They are also good for group shots. These lenses offer deep depth of field, thereby making constant refocusing less important. This is why they are usually used in photojournalism, in which a subject is frequently moving.

Normal Lenses

Traditional or Normal lenses consist of 50mm focal length. They offer an angle view close to the human eye. These are the standard lenses that are supplied with an SLR.

Telephoto Lenses

Telephoto lenses offer high magnification and narrow angle view. Anything with a focal length of above 135mm is referred to as a telephoto lens. These lenses are used in sports, nature, and documentary style photography.

There is another type of photography lens which is known as Medium Telephoto lens. These lenses have a focal length of 85-135mm. They are perfect for portraits and that is why they are usually used in portrait studio photography. These lenses are able to isolate the subject from the background. Studio photographers use the increased focal length to slightly flatten the image and give it a more natural and flattering perspective.

One thing that becomes clear here is that you simply cannot use a single type of lens for all sorts of photography. For instance, studio photography is very different from wildlife or outdoor photography. Telephoto photography lenses are best suited for wildlife photography, while Medium Telephoto lenses work great for family or kid portraits.

Practicing

Once we have the basic knowledge about various lenses, we can begin honing our photography skills. The best thing to do is start taking pictures of your family. Good family photographers are always ready and are able to anticipate a photographic opportunity. Do not let the subjects know that you are taking pictures because that way you will get natural images. Plus if you set the aperture setting pretty low to narrow the depth of the field you can get some really cool images.

Tips

Another great way to practice your photography skills is to create children's portraits. In fact, kid photography is a very rewarding experience. It is all about being quick and understanding the psychology of the kids. Here are few tips to help you get great pictures.

-Get the kids interested in the settings. Let them explore the surroundings. That way you will get natural pictures.
-Choose the location very carefully. Beach, park, or a bridge over a creek offer a natural setting in which the kids can be kids. Moreover, you get an awesome background.
-Be quick because you never know when you can get that magic moment.
-You have to be patient because it might take some time to get the right pictures.
-Choose your lenses and equipments wisely.

With the right photography lenses and knowledge you can get some amazing shots of whatever that you are trying to take pictures of.

About the Author

For more expert tips and advice on photography lenses, cameras and digital imaging, visit us at http://www.photographynotes.com
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Sports Photography - How Most Pros Work

2009-02-16T21:12:00.008+08:00

Photo by Visuallens ( Click on image to view enlargement )
By Peter Phun Platinum Quality Author

In Sports photography, access is key. Without access, you won't succeed even if you have the most comprehensive array of lenses out there. So if you have access, you've already improved your chances of success by at least 40%. The other keys to success?

You have to be able to anticipate and concentrate for long periods. Being knowledgeable and following a variety of sports, not just the popular ones, is crucial. And finally a good ounce of luck doesn't hurt either. What exactly should you be looking for besides shooting great action?

Faces

Back of heads are not terribly engaging. I think we are so in tuned to seeing faces, we don't realize it. We do want to see faces of athletes whenever possible. Grimacing faces add to the drama and excitement. Unfortunately some athletes hardly show any emotions even when they win. Faces in sports can be the difference between a good picture and a great picture.

Timing

Peak action is probably what you're after. There may be some luck involved but a softball picture without a visible ball is not as exciting. The ball, be it a hockey puck or shuttlecock tells your viewer what sport it is. Without the ball, you don't get a sense of how close the play was, how bad the throw was et cetera. With baseball and softball, the play at a base has to be close. If the throw is early or too late, the ball is either in the glove or out of your picture. But that's not your fault. It's just how the game goes. So the element of luck is there for sure.

A Different Viewpoint

Strive for a different viewpoint to surprise your viewers and to give them a fresh look of a "tired-looking" sport. This may be something as simple as shooting when weather is not so good sometimes. Or even simply being creative with your photographic technique. It may mean working harder by bringing in more equipment but your efforts will be rewarded. If it it doesn't work, you'll at least learn something new.

Backgrounds

Related to viewpoint but just as important is backgrounds. Shooting with wide open apertures on long lenses can only do that much sometimes, so be on the lookout for what's behind the subject at all times. If you're serious about sports photography, you should try photographing different sports.

Photo by AllSportsBlog

Golf

Just the same way most Americans don't get soccer, I don't get golf. I do know I would enjoy the sport if I play it. It's more interesting to play than to watch. That said, I don't particularly like covering golf. Here's why:

* expect to be hauling at least a 300 mm lens with a monopod and 2 bodies, maybe a flash, and a 70-200 mm zoom.
* you will be walking all 18 holes, more if it goes into playoffs.
* you don't get to hang out with just the same foursome
* if the leader boards are not kept current, you will be in a world of hurt trying to find a certain golfer when the lead changes suddenly.
* besides that, the light is usually extremely harsh. Faces are inevitably shielded by visors or baseball caps. You're never close enough to be able to fill flash or anything of that sort.
* Restrictions. You can't stand directly in the line-0f-sight of the golfers. You can't trip your shutter until they actually hit the ball if they're on the green during the short game. Don't forget you have to be absolutely quiet.
* if the game goes into playoffs, all those "great pictures" you took in the early rounds don't mean much anymore. It's like starting all over.

Soccer

My favorite sport soccer happens to be pretty tough to shoot because of the lens requirement. A 300 mm lens is probably the minimum and a 400 mm is more ideal. But that also depends on the sensor size of your camera body.

If you're shooting with a camera with full frame sensors, you might even need something longer.

Most of the time, depending on the lens you have, you park yourself on the field and just hope you're in the right place at the right time. So covering soccer is not as physically demanding as covering golf or football. You might move around when there's a chance for a set piece like a free-kick or corner kick. It helps if you understand terms like "in-swinger" on corner kicks. The rest of the time, because the action is non-stop and the ball moves around the pitch so quickly, it's difficult to physically move around.

Badminton

Anytime you step indoors to cover a sport, you are heading into low light and very limited options. The world's fastest racquet sport is also hardest to photograph because of the lighting conditions and how the indoor stadiums are lit. Understanding how a game like badminton or tennis is scored is crucial. How else would you know when it's the "critical match point' or the significance of a tie-break?

ISO, Aperture, Shutter Speed & White Balance

Up till this point, I haven't mentioned these camera settings because these are variable depending on the lighting conditions and how well your camera handle digital noise. Generally speaking, the newer your camera, the better it handles low ISO and digital noise. Most sports photographers have at least a 300mm f2.8 lens at a minimum.

They will also carry a 70-200 f2.8 lens and most likely that has built-in image stabilization. And the majority of sports photographers take their pictures at f2.8 to blur out the background but also to get the highest possible shutter speed to freeze action.

Every now and then, they may need more depth-of-field but very rarely. That by the way, is why under the one of the Auto modes, you see the icon for Sports or someone running. It's also exposure mode that favors high shutter speed, Shutter Priority or Tv (Time value according to Canon)

So 2 camera bodies are pretty standard. One body is attached to the long telephoto which is mounted on a monopod for support. Depending on the camera body, the image sensor may be full frame or may have a 1.6x, so a 300mm will be 480 mm lens.

To successfully hand hold a lens like that with little camera shake would require you to make sure you have a minimum shutter speed of 1/500 sec.

But even professionals don't handhold long lenses, they use monopods. The one good thing about shooting in artificial lighting like a soccer stadium at night is this: once you have the exposure down, it doesn't change very much, unlike a daytime game.

In day games, you have to keep an eye on light levels especially if the game is in the evening. The other advantage is the crowd in the stands are not lit, so they aren't as distracting.

Since "Sports Photography" is a highly specialized field, there is just too much to cover in one article. These tips will hopefully get you on your way to getting better pictures.

Peter Phun teaches photography at Riverside City College. He does portraits, weddings and editorial work. Read an illustrated and more detailed article about sports photography on his blog. He writes about photography, Macs and the internet. He also designs websites and is a stay-at-home dad.

Previously, Peter worked as a staff photographer for 18 years at The Press-Enterprise, Southern California's 4th largest daily newspaper. He is the webmaster for the Mac user group in the Inland Empire. For more information about this Riverside based photographer, visit http://www.peterphun.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Peter_Phun

5 Secrets to Taking More Professional Photos

2009-02-08T22:28:00.016+08:00

By: Phil Thornton

One of the most popular gifts this past holiday season was the digital SLR (single-lens reflex) camera. With companies like Canon and Nikon in fierce competition for the consumer market, the prices for high quality consumer level digital SLR's dropped significantly in 2008. If you are a proud owner of one of these amazing cameras but a little confused on how to operate them to their full potential then this top ten list is for you. Here are a few tips and tricks to help you create better photographs and introduce you to the world of digital photography.

1. Automatic Modes are not your friend

When taking your first photo with your new SLR you most likely shot in one of the automatic modes. Although these modes are by far the easiest modes to shoot in, they very rarely produce high quality photographs. When you shoot in automatic modes you are basically letting the camera make all of the decisions for you. The camera selects the aperture automatically, the exposure automatically, and sets the ISO automatically. In most cases it is also focusing automatically. To achieve that professional look in your images you have to leave the comforts of automatic modes and explore the other shooting modes your camera has to offer.

2. Aperture Priority Mode

This is probably the single most powerful tip on this list. If you only learn how to shoot in one mode on your new camera, this mode will give you the most dramatic results. Your aperture is what determines the depth of field in an image. Shooting with a low number set for your aperture (4.0 and lower) will leave your subject in focus while giving the background a nice blurred and out of focus look. This helps distinguish your subject and draw in the viewer's eye. Consult your manual for more information on shooting in this mode.

3. Composition

This is probably the easiest tip to begin practicing. Instead of centering your subject in the middle of every photograph try mixing it up a little! Photography should be fun and exciting! Experiment with different compositions to your photographs. Try tilting the camera slightly to the left or right. Don't forget to shoot vertically as well as horizontally. Vertical images are sometimes called "portraits" because they generally make for a better format for images of people. Study the rule of thirds. The rule of thirds is one of the most fundamental composition rules an artist uses. If you were to take your photo and divide it into thirds vertically and horizontally you would make a grid. The rule of thirds dictates that when interesting things are on the lines of this imaginary grid then it tends to look better. So put your nephew or niece a third of the way over to the right or left and add a little art to your images!

4. Start looking for light

The hardest skill to master in photography is understanding light, but taking a little bit of time to look for it and appreciate it can make a huge difference in your photos. Photography is simply the recording of light and the sooner you can wrap your head around that concept the sooner you will be able to improve your images. Don't just look at your subject; look at the light hitting your subject. When photographing people you want indirect lighting, lighting that is coming from an angle other than straight from the camera. Flashes, especially on-camera flashes, can ruin an image. That little pop-up flash that tries to jump up when you take your photos can easily ruin a beautiful image. Learn how to disable your flash and shoot with available light.

5. Shoot, shoot, shoot

If you are serious about becoming a better photographer the best thing you can do is practice. I know this might sound like common sense but people seem to quickly loose interest when they aren't creating amazing images immediately. Stick to it, photograph something everyday, make it part of your daily schedule. When you wake up in the morning grab the camera and find something to shoot, it could be your breakfast, your dog, your mailbox, anything. Being comfortable with your new camera is key and if you aren't shooting with it regularly you will never feel in control.

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About the Author
Phil Thornton is a Nashville Wedding Photographer and owner of Phindy Studios. Visit http://www.phindystudios.com for more information and photography resources.
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Close up Photography, an emotional approach to Nature Photography

2009-01-30T23:03:00.005+08:00

Photo by : Home Photography
Story by: Phil McDermott

From wide open spaces to rugged mountains, rolling meadows to dramatic coastlines they all play an important part in the nature of landscape. However, with such a view it is often hard to appreciate the beauty because there is nowhere for the eye to settle and concentrate on.

Why not take a fresh approach to nature photography and concentrate on part of the view and take time to consider color, shape and texture to really appreciate the finer features of the scene.

Enter the world of close up photography that lies just beyond the familiar but so rich in detail and beauty. If we look through our close up lens with an open mind, imagination and childlike curiosity there are many close up photography opportunities for us to consider.

As nature photographers we can take this concept further, for example that distant bright yellow patch becomes on closer inspection a riotous stand of broom flowers. Closer still we see clearly the intricate detail in each flower and seedpod that we can record in our close up photography.

Now go really close, look at the seedpod with its gossamer covering of fine hairs and we start to appreciate how things fit together. Whilst this is not a scientific approach it provides a raw and basic understanding, offers enlightenment and lets us become an integral part of nature. So by going close up and concentrating on a small part of the whole we have simplified our close up photography subject, made it basic, powerful and memorable,.

There is no need to go far, finding close up nature photography opportunities should be seen as a journey of the soul, inner vision and contemplation rather than visiting a far off place. Often the deeper we look into our close up photography subjects the more rewarding they become. Without hesitation they reveal their treasures allowing us time to admire their quality. With this awareness the nature photographer with a passion for close up photography is indeed privileged.

Appreciating that all these parts form an important relationship with each other makes it is easier to understand that the whole is made up of many unique parts and like pieces of a jigsaw they combine together to create a complete picture. Indeed, only by appreciating the significance of the smallest parts of our surroundings can we can start to make sense of nature as a whole and incorporate this awareness into our close up photography.

Emotion and drama and be found in often overlooked close up photography cameos, like a delicate flower growing defiantly in a boulder crevice, its tenuous grip on life dependent on the sustenance from the crevice debris. Yet it lives on year after year, testimony to its determination and resilience. It is this inter-action that is so enduring and compelling that makes these interesting subjects perfect for nature photography.

As a close up photographer getting close up to nature allows a greater understanding and appreciation of the beauty of the natural world. For example a cold clear winter day with breathtaking crispness can be ideal for close up photography, in these conditions there are magical patterns in snow, frost and shimmering icicles. Ice patterns make perfect winter close up photography subjects; they literally capture a moment frozen in time. Depending on the prevailing weather conditions some have smooth curves whilst others show harsh jagged lines providing creative close up photography opportunities.

Early morning in spring and summer can be a wonderful time to find close up photography subjects. Flowers and grasses covered with dew or fine rain make fascinating close up photography studies, the fine hairs hold onto droplets of water almost defy gravity. In the right conditions there may be insects that after a night’s inactivity have become encrusted with minute droplets. Butterflies make excellent close up photography subjects and look stunning covered in dew as they sparkle like a myriad of jewels.

Light quality plays an important role in our close up photography, if it is too harsh the increase in contrast will actually block out the very close up detail we are trying to photograph. It is far better to have diffused light that occurs with high thin cloud cover. It provides a much softer quality of light and allows the detail, texture and nuances to be clearly seen and recorded in our close up photography. Color also influences our interpretation of the subject, vibrant colors like red and yellow for example suggest dominance and power, whereas muted tones like grey and browns convey basic, earthy and tranquil feelings.

So, if we approach our close up photography with childlike wonder and a renewed vision the natural world is undoubtedly a beautiful place. To fully appreciate it requires a little time and an inquisitive mind, it will reward you with the knowledge that even the simplest of things can bring satisfaction, contentment, harmony and inner peace.

About the Author
Phil McDermott, Scotland Commercial Photographer and Close up Photography Workshops Phil McDermott Photography. See our Photography Blog for Photography Tips and Ideas.
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4 Tips To Building A Career With Digital Photography

2009-01-14T10:40:00.009+08:00

Click on the photo to view enlargement

It is always exciting and fun when you can make money with what you enjoy. Imagine that going to work is like spending your time with your favorite hobby. Doesn't that put a smile on your face? This article is going to focus on how being different, learning photography, having a portfolio and the right equipments can help.

Imagine that you are online, reading newspaper or watching TV. Have you ever had a moment that you fail to see a picture? And ever since photography went into digital, it has sparked more people to become professional photographer.

Often, how the pictures turn out depend on the photographer's experience. That is why famous photographers' pictures are more outstanding. Think about how much money you can make when your pictures stand out from the crowd.

Continue reading when you want to build a career with digital photography:

1. Learn the art

The first thing you need to keep in mind is that photography is an art. Like a professional artist, you need to know your profession. Professional photographers get their reputation today through continuous learning.

When you are starting out to make money with digital photography, make sure you learn the art through books, clinics and practice how to shoot right.

2. Equipments

You need to start looking at professional DSLR camera when you want to become a professional photographer. The compact digital cameras are just not meant to build your career with digital photography.

Luckily the DSLR cameras nowadays are getting more affordable. Today, you can get a DSLR camera and extra lenses with investment less than $1000. That just feels great doesn't it?

3. Portfolio

Now, you must have an impressive portfolio in order to make money with photography. This is to show your potential clients what you have achieved.

Put your best work in the portfolio as that is what your potential clients are going to judge you with. Your skills and creativity will determine whether you can land the job or not.

4. Being different

You need an identity in the market. Express yourself with how you capture your subject. Your potential clients will appreciate something different yet aligned to their needs.

The bottom line is Find Article, you need to be unique.

Source: Free Articles from ArticlesFactory.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Do you enjoy taking photos? Do you want more digital photography tips and techniques? Michael Wong is happy to share his knowledge about digital photography with you and hope you enjoy them.

How To Handle Cold Weather Photography

2009-01-03T12:08:00.003+08:00

Cold weather presents a few unique challenges to digital photographers. In this post, Peter Carey offers some suggestions to keep you photographing when the mercury drops.

cold weather photography - Copyright Lachlan Hardy When the weather outside turns cold, there are a few precautions every digital photographer should take.

First, give your camera time to acclimate!

This one is very important and it’s a two way street. If you’re heading outside from a nice warm house, or if you’re coming back in from a shoot out in the cold, give your camera lens time to adjust to the temperature change. Going either direction will fog up your lens and viewfinder. Leave your lens cap on when going either direction and give your camera plenty of time to adjust to the temps. The amount of time depends on the the difference in temperatures from inside to outside. The larger the difference, the more time you should allow. 15 minutes is usually fine but more may be needed depending on how humid each environment is. You want a slow, gradual change so if you can, leave your camera in a camera bag as it gets used to the change. While this may take a bit longer, it does help ensure condensation won’t become a problem.

Next, you’ll want to protect your batteries.

Cold weather presents a few unique challenges to digital photographers. In this post, Peter Carey offers some suggestions to keep you photographing when the mercury drops.
When the weather outside turns cold, there are a few precautions every digital photographer should take.

First, give your camera time to acclimate!

This one is very important and it’s a two way street. If you’re heading outside from a nice warm house, or if you’re coming back in from a shoot out in the cold, give your camera lens time to adjust to the temperature change. Going either direction will fog up your lens and viewfinder. Leave your lens cap on when going either direction and give your camera plenty of time to adjust to the temps. The amount of time depends on the the difference in temperatures from inside to outside. The larger the difference, the more time you should allow. 15 minutes is usually fine but more may be needed depending on how humid each environment is. You want a slow, gradual change so if you can, leave your camera in a camera bag as it gets used to the change. While this may take a bit longer, it does help ensure condensation won’t become a problem.

Next, you’ll want to protect your batteries.

Besides the lens of your camera (even worse, your sensor) getting fogged over, batteries are the lifeline for digital photography. Unlike traditional film (with another set of cold weather challenges), digital cameras obviously rely on working batteries. The problem is cold saps batteries of energy even when they aren’t in the camera. Carry spare batteries in pant pockets where they are close to your body. The warmer the battery, the better it performs. Even when your camera indicates a battery is dead, warming it up in a pocket (especially one with a hand warmer!) can bring it back to life for a few dozen more shots. Get used to rotating batteries in this manner and you’ll be able to stay out shooting longer.

Let’s not forget your hands!

Once your camera has adapted to the cold, holding it for long periods of time can cause frost bitten fingers. Just having your hands exposed to subfreezing temperatures for more than a few minutes can make your digits fumble and feel quite painful. Obviously gloves are a requirement for outdoor photography, but what works well? You’ll need both the warmth of a puffy winter mitten but the dexterity and tactile feel of a thin, thin layer. Enter the Mountain Hardwear Power Stretch Glove! I’ve found these gloves to provide the best warmth while still maintaining all the feel of the camera I need. They keep the wind out and while they are no extreme winter glove, they get the job done.

Lastly, keep your camera out of the elements

While the snow may be falling and seem so much better than a rainy day behind the lens, be aware that snow can cause just as much damage. Carry a soft, water absorbent cloth to help dry off your camera while out and about. Also consider investing in a rain hood for your camera if it’s a DSLR, which allows you to keep shooting in the heaviest of downpours. In a pinch, wrapping a towel around your camera will keep the snow off.

There’s no reason to let the cold weather keep you inside or away from your camera. With a little preparation you can ensure great photo opportunities don’t pass you by this winter!

Are you looking for daily photographic inspiration? Peter hosts a Photo Of The Day RSS/Atom/email feed on his site, The Carey Adventures. Get inspiring photos from the world of travel and adventure delivered daily to your mailbox!

Digital Photography Tips - How to Take Winter Photos

2008-12-28T13:49:00.005+08:00

Rilo and snow by Aaron Michael Brown

Merry Christmas!

Many people may not have the chance to witness the white snow Christmas in winter like in the Europe or Canada especially for those living in South East Asia. The tropical weather is totally different from them. Decio Fernandes will like to share his experience here

Many people that have just started taking photographs have no knowledge that, when taking pictures of snow, the properties in their cameras are set to counterbalance the abundance in light that is reflected in the snow. Because of that, snow is captured as gray or blue instead of white. Fortunately, there are two solutions for this simple problem that frequently happen in the winter. You can change the setting to "beach" or "snow" mode and the camera will self-adapt to the bright light and fix the issue. The other solution is to manually manipulate the camera to recognize the snow as it should, while observing the effects through the LCD screen.

At the same time it is not easy photographing snow because of all the bright light, once you realize what you can do to overcome that problem, you are instantly blessed with breathtaking and exclusive images that you cannot obtain in any other season. There is usually such a striking difference in colors that make winter pictures unique and extremely attractive.

Whenever taking photos outside, photographers are usually confronted by some difficulties. One of them is when the picture ends up being too dark because the camera tries to compensate for the intensity of light. In this case, most people use the flash to help with the lighting. You can also choose the "action" mode to make sure that any moving subject is captured precisely.

There is such a wide variety of photographs that can be seen in winter photography. All the contrast and textures of nature are simply infinite.

Take your photos to the next level! To learn more tips visit Digital Photography Tips

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Decio_Fernandes

Equip Yourself With the Finest Photography Equipment

2008-12-22T21:47:00.003+08:00

Martin Milewski

As a hobby photography has universal appeal and most people almost always have indulged in it. Occasions are not complete without photographs being taken to capture the essence of the event and make it more memorable. Pictures provide a record of what happened, when it happened and sometimes how it happened. You can always look back in time when you look at pictures taken long ago and they make for a historical and pictorial record of times past. Nowadays almost everybody has a camera, whether it is a modern digital one or an old-fashioned film camera. Many people have more than one, especially since mobile phones not come equipped with cameras. Photography equipment is not anymore the perquisite of the rich alone, it is now highly affordable and you get so much variety of photography equipment that you are spoilt for choice.

In case you are really taken up by photography and your skills are well honed, you may decide to buy more specialized photography equipment which will help you in your artistic endeavors.

What Photography Equipment You Require

Apart from your camera, which should be good, other photography equipment can also be purchased. The camera itself should have a good lens. You might want to buy something which is inexpensive, and there are many in the low-price range, or you may want to go in for a high end product. High end photography equipment is expensive, but you may want to buy it if you want to become a skilled photographer. If you are keen on taking photographs and making photography your hobby, do not hesitate to buy good quality photography equipment. Cameras can last a lifetime and also provide timeless memories. If your basic photography equipment is good, you know that you will find it difficult to go wrong when you take picture.

If You Want More Than A Camera When You Purchase Photography Equipment

Perhaps you want to buy everything you may need altogether. Apart from the camera, you can go in for good light equipment. Among the photography equipment which will be useful to you apart from a good light system, would be a tripod for still shots – it will steady and center the camera. A camera bag is another piece of photography equipment which will protect your precious camera from scratches and breakages. While these peripherals may not be essential, your picture taking abilities will definitely be enhanced if you use these items. Your basic picture quality will be higher than if you use a cheap camera with no peripherals.

From Where Can You Buy Your Photography Equipment?

Fortunately, photography equipment can now be purchased from almost anywhere, from your supermarket or an electronic shop or a special photography shop. You will probably be able to purchase most of your photography equipment at one go. But before venturing out to buy, arm yourself with the knowledge as to what you want, what are the good brands available and how much you want to spend. You can always check out reviews and get advice from friends and colleagues as to what you should buy before you buy it. Article Source: http://www.BharatBhasha.com
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Can an advanced digital camera reach your expectations?

2008-12-20T10:06:00.005+08:00

Photo by:Home Photography
By Manas C

Digital photography can be maximized to its full potential once you have the perfect camera, the proper color and the perfect lighting. Even if you have with you the latest model of digital camera, your photos will not turn out great if you are not making use of the right strategies in getting them right

Experts in digital photography have come to realize that the digital camera is only one of the things you need to have great pictures. There are also other factors to consider so that you will not be disappointed by the result. One of them is the digital photography lighting.

Have you ever seen digital photos that seem to blur and indistinguishable? There are a lot of cases like this. Even if you try and edit them using Photoshop or any other software, you cannot seem to get the desired lighting you want.

This is because you have not considered having the proper lighting when the photo was taken. You were thinking that the camera and its features will be able to do that for you. Yes it can. But they may not reach your expectations.

The secret to getting that perfect picture is to do it right the first time. By doing it right, it simply means that you need to think about how well or bad the lighting is in the process of taking the photo.

Below are some of the natural sources of digital photography lighting that will make your photos look terrific.

1. After sunrise and before sunset

It is during these times that photography is at its peak. Meaning, photos turn out great when they are shoot after sunrise and before sunset.
Why is this so?
This is because the orange color that appears in the sky during these times adds to the colors that your digital camera is capable. Most of the time, some photos appear dull and unrealistic when they are printed because of the representation of the colors when it is printed.
The color of the environment can add a sort of brightness to your photos. In addition, it will make it easy for you to edit them on your computer once you feel that you want to put in some combination in the natural setting of the picture.

2. Sunlight

Sunlight is one form of lighting that is very effective once you know how to modify your shots. Keep in mind that you are not capable of altering the brightness of the sun or the shadows that it can create on your photos.
It is up for you to choose the best position wherein you can make the most of the light that is emitted by the sun. Work them to your advantage. Try on different angles and see if they look perfect once frozen.
You can also make the most of the drop shadows that is created by the sunlight. Just make sure that they will not blur your photo. Fro minor adjustments, you can just edit the photos straight from your computer.
Shooting digital photos is not only about having the most advanced digital camera. It is also about looking for strategies and techniques that will benefit your shots. Try to shoot your photos with the perfect lighting and you will see that you do not need to edit or add some more colors in them.

About the author:
Aura Backdrops is a supplier of the highest quality muslin backdrops, photography backgrounds,digital photography backgrounds, scenic backdrops , fantasy cloth and portrait backdrops since 2004, and is dedicated to provide you with the customer service you deserve. Our high quality photography backdrops and backgrounds will give you the professional look that your studio, portrait and photography needs

Article Source: http://www.Free-Articles-Zone.com

Macro, Micro and Close Up Photography - Are They All the Same?

2008-12-06T17:08:00.002+08:00

Photo by Home Photography

Story by Shereena Vysakh

Macro simply means big, micro means small now are they both the same thing ? In fact yes the two words point to the same realm of photography. Even close up photography is the same thing. That is getting small things to fill up the whole photograph. Now the scale of working is what differentiates them.

Macro and Micro are used interchangeably for the realm of photography which aim at getting the object that is in the photograph to be the same size as the sensor. That is on a aps-c canon sensor the object would be of an area of 22.2x14.8mm. Let me get the idea a bit more clear, here we are talking about the sensor and not the photo. The sensor which is 22.2x14.8 (in our example) will be capturing a macro when the image falling on the sensor is of an area that is also 22.2mm x 14.8 mm. If you want to get an idea of what this size would be take a piece of paper draw a rectangle that is 22.2mm long and 14.8mm wide. Now cut along the rectangle to produce a paper with a hole. Now you are taking macro's when you are capturing the area of the rectangle in the whole photograph, now we are talking in terms of photograph and not the sensor.

Why the two words macro and micro?

This came out from the convention used by major brands. Nikon and some other brands use the word micro with lens that are true macro lens and Canon and many other brands use the word macro on lens that are true macro's(1:1 or more). For convenience from now on we will use the word macro.

Canon Macro 100mm F2.8

Nikkor 60mm Micro

The above images show a Macro model from Canon and a Micro model from Nikon.

So is macro only 1:1?

No, technically macro is 1:1 or more that is it can be 1:1 or 2:1 or 3:1 and so on. Usually we refer to anything above 2:1 as super macro photography.

3:1 super macro of a flower

Then what are close ups ?

Magnified photo or photos that are not 1:1 but have high magnification ratios are called close up photos. Also some photographers refer to portraits as close ups. That is not part of the discussion on this article. Using diopters to achieve macro like effects on non macro lens can also be referred to as macro photography, but using reversed lens or bellows are actual macros and not close ups. Some diopters or close up filters do allow 1:1 macros but most are not 1:1 and thus this group of photographs also fall into close ups.

Point and Shoots and macro

Many point and shoot camera have the so called macro mode. These are actually close ups , most p&s(point and shoot) cameras have tiny sensors and their lens systems are made to be cheap than to be performers. So essentially it is impossible to achieve 1:! on a point and shoot or even a bridge. The reason being that the optics are not good enough and the sensor is too small. Even those cameras that can focus at distances less than 1 cm are not taking macros. So putting it simply P&S have close up modes and not macro modes. They call it macro because it resemble , a very vague resembles at that, to a macro.

Also point and shoot cameras have a lot of mega pixels cramped onto a tiny sensor thus the quality of each pixel is very low compared to a sensor in a DSLR. Therefore the results that one can expect from the P&S's so called macro mode is limited. This mode is good for the starting hobbyist who is not yet into wasting his whole salary on photographic equipment.

Is there anything else called Micro photography?

Yes there is a realm of photography that attaches a camera to a microscope and then photographs of what is being seen in the viewfinder is taken. This is widely used in making textbooks and the like. There are some artists who make brilliant photographs using this technique.

So next time your friend says his new point and shoot camera has Macro photography you know that he is talking about close up photography. Also when you see an image of an insect with brilliant details you can understand that it is a macro or a super macro photograph.

Remember reading only gives you ideas going out and clicking pictures will make your pictures better.

Visit the Link: http://www.randomequations.com/2008/11/18/macromicro-and-close-up-photography-are-they-all-the-same/

Shereena Vysakh is a Pro Photography Hobbiest Blogging at http://RandomEquations.com

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Better Photography - Look at the Light

2008-11-24T21:06:00.001+08:00

photo by:ChrisY

Story by: Duncan Wherrett

Photoshop is now one of the major computer programmes around. The basis of it all, however, is the photographic image.

Very often the quality of the original image can get overlooked or can be considered unimportant. We hear sentences like: "Oh that'll do - we'll fix it later in Photoshop".

Perhaps it can, but starting off with a better photograph in the first place can save a lot of trouble later.
Well begun is half done.

Light does have a special place in photography, but all too often it is largely
ignored, whereas in actual fact, different light can change the whole scene
dramatically. Good photography requires lighting rather than light and when
shooting outside, the light can be controlled and used in much the same way
as it is used when photography is undertaken in a studio.

At the risk of stating the obvious, light is a visual thing, and it should be
considered in its own right and used and controlled as much as possible by
being more selective about the time and place when the photograph is taken.
A change in the light will change the landscape and with a little practice these
changes will soon be noticed.

Spring light in the early morning gives a feel to
a scene not found later in the day.

Early morning light and sun have a unique quality not found at other times
– a freshness and sparkle with or without any mist. Such circumstances
give a special feel to most situations, and it can be worth rising for an early
morning walk in order to catch these moments. The atmosphere of a scene
will, therefore, be greatly influenced by the light and the same scene can look
very different in the sun, under cloud or in the numerous changing weather
conditions.

Evening light adds warm tones and, with long dramatic shadows, will give extra modelling to the subject. The same scene photographed with a high sun in the middle of the day can look flat and uninteresting.

The low sun emphasizes the shape and character of the scene.

Back light, that is shooting into the sun, also has its own qualities, giving attractive halos to the subjects.
If there is water in the scene, such as a lake or river, then the use of back light will put a real sparkle into the water.
With the sun in front of the photographer, the water has a sparkle it would not have if the sun had been in any other position.

Even the sun behind the photographer can be effective sometimes, although it is not generally recommended, because it will make the subject look too flat and characterless. The very low sun over one's shoulder late in the day, however, can give colours a strength and richness not normally seen.
It's under such circumstances, with the sun behind the photographer, that rainbows are usually seen.

Perhaps one of the most appealing types of sunlight is that of dapple light,
with a strong sun shining through trees and lighting up the subject in patches.
In any season, such sunlight can really make the picture, with its depth and
multitude of tones. If there is any early mist around, the sunlight might be
seen as shafts of light and with autumn leaves there is likely to be an extra
warm glow to the colour of the light.

Dapple light can give an interesting look to a scene.

There can be situations where a cloudy day is best. Strong sun gives a
bright picture but it also gives high contrast. When the sun is shining in a
narrow street or a picturesque alley in a Mediterranean village, some of the
street will be in strong sunshine and some of it will be in shadow.

This will give a contrast range which is so extreme that it will not be possible to produce a good print through a normal printing system. In such circumstances, if you can manage to photograph that side street or market corner on a cloudy day or when no sun is directly on that area, then the lighting will be much more even and all of the detail will be printable.

Certain lighting conditions can definitely be a bonus:

sun poking through the clouds
sun on rain-covered ground
a shaft of sunlight coming through a window or doorway.

All this means that it is not advisable to shoot too quickly, but to look at the
light and consider its effect. The sun brings out colours and brings everything
alive so it can be worth waiting perhaps 10 minutes for the weather to change, or going back on another more suitable occasion.

A potentially good picture can be a great disappointment purely because
the light at the time does not do the scene justice. It can often be better to save the film on a very dreary day and return later when the sun has moved round to the best side of a building or landscape.

Just a short walk might be sufficient for that gap in the clouds that will
send out shafts of sunlight; or try using the gathering storm clouds to your
photographic advantage before running for cover.

Tip:

* Look at the light, and its effect on the subject
* Don't shoot too quickly but be prepared to come back when the light might be more suitable.

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Photographs which illustrate the points described here can be seen at
http://www.photoshop-tutorials-plus.com/photography_tips.html
A reminder then that better photography makes later work in Photoshop easier.
http://www.photoshopinaday.com

Wildlife Photography: Natural Light For Great Wildlife Photos.

2008-11-08T12:47:00.005+08:00

photo taken at 11.30am in the morning by: Home Photography
(Click on image to view larger version)

Wildlife photography combines a range of skills, both creative and technical. Many people struggle with one aspect in particular; knowing the best light for capturing their wildlife photo.

To take a top-class wildlife photograph, you need to know your animal; where to find it, how to approach it without scaring it away, and how to know the precise moment to press the button to capture the character of the subject. Often a wildlife photographer will spend hours trying to get a good shot. What a shame, then, if all that effort is wasted by taking your photo in bad light.

As a nature photographer, I have learned that the ideal light for a photo can vary depending on the subject. Landscape photos are usually best photographed in sunny weather, early in the morning or late in the afternoon when the contrast is low and the light is soft and colouful. On the hand, rainforest photography is usually best in the middle of the day, in cloudy weather to eliminate extremes of light and shade. To understand the best lighting for wildlife photography, you can take a lesson from both landscape and rainforest photography.

To get the best light for a wildlife photo, you are really looking to minimize contrast, and to eliminate shadows from important areas; especially across the face of your subject.

If you take your photos in the middle of a sunny day, you are bound to encounter shadows in all the wrong places. Bright light is likely to overexpose parts of the subject, while the face and the underside of the animal could be lost in heavy shadow. The result will be unattractive, and lacking in much of the detail that should give character to your photo.

There is nothing wrong with taking your wildlife photos on a sunny day. Just remember the lesson from landscape photography and seek to take your photos early in the morning and late in the afternoon. At these times the sun is shining from a more horizontal angle, so it will illuminate the full face of the subject; you are less likely to have shadows over the eyes and other important features. If there are shadows, they will be much softer because the contrast is much lower when the sun is low in the sky.

The light at these times is also much more colourful, with the golden hues you associate with sunrise and sunset. This is a classic technique for improving landscapes, but it can be just as effective for wildlife. The warmth of the light can create an intimacy in your pictures that is completely lost in the harsh light of midday.

Your other option is to follow the example of rainforest photography and take your photos on a cloudy day. This allows you to catch your subject in very even, low-contrast light.

I find cloudy days particularly useful for animals with glossy surfaces. A frog, for example, has a shiny skin that reflects a lot of light. In glary conditions a green frog may appear mostly grey or silver in a photo. On a cloudy day the same frog will be shown in its true colours.

Birds can often appear more colourful on a cloudy day, for the very same reason. The sun shining on glossy feathers can create a lot of reflection, robbing the photo of its natural colour. It may seem the opposite of what you would expect, but the dull light of a cloudy day can actually produce the truest colours in a bright wildlife subject.

One final question you may ask: should you use a flash to illuminate a wildlife photo? My answer to that is a definite "NO." Flash photography bathes the subject in white light, coming from directly in front of the subject. It may illuminate the subject, but at the same time rob it of the natural play of light and shade that makes a good photo so appealing.

Some wildlife photography experts use multiple flashes to brightly illuminate a subject from every possible angle. This can be effective when it is done well, but remember; these are experts in flash photography. If you are at the beginner stage, I recommend learning to work with natural light. When you get the hang of it, I guarantee you will be happy with the results.

Check out Andrew Goodall's popular wildlife and landscape photography at http://www.naturesimage.com.au , and learn from his experience with the top selling ebook "Photography in Plain English." Don't forget to sign up to the online newsletter for tips and updates...it's free!

Photo Studio Accessories

2008-11-01T19:01:00.004+08:00

Story by: Sharpics

Now that you have decided to set up a photo studio, you can start hunting for the tools you require.

The first and foremost thing of course is the camera. Depending on how good you are at photography, you can choose from the basic digital SLR camera or a point and shoot type, a semi pro model or if you are a confident user, the professional model. Select a large memory card to begin with or even perhaps get one or two extra. Most cameras have a display screen. It is better to have one as this allows you to perceive the composition of your image before you shoot. Just in case you haven’t come across one with this feature, look for one with a video-output so that it is possible for you to attach the camera to a TV or computer screen to preview the results.

When it comes to studio photography, a tripod is one thing you cannot do without. There are many varieties to choose from to suit your needs. It provides a steady support. And stable platform for your camera.

It is important to use the correct lighting. These comes in as continuous or tungsten and flash. With the more traditional continuous lighting is cheaper and easy to work with as this gives what you see is what you get image. Tungsten lighting produces a lot of heat and it can be uncomfortable to both the photographer and the subject.

The flash lighting or strobe lighting also creates near-to-perfection results. This also you can choose from an array of things you get in the market. There are flash adapter rings, flash battery packs, flash diffusers, flash brackets; flash modules flash synchronizers to make your life easy with.

A good lens set is also needed in your studio. Other than the standard lenses, there are zoom lenses wide angle lenses, macro lenses to choose from.

You can enhance the use of the lighting methods by incorporating the use of backdrop accessories. They come as umbrellas, softbox. You can use just white paper or fabric to achieve the desired results as well or even paint your backdrop with acrylic paints. You can add a decorative backdrop too, which also comes as a backdrop accessory.

Next the use of a reflector will help you to cast away the shadows you tend to get while shooting. These will soften shadows and reduce reflections. You can achieve this by holding a white cardboard to reflect those shadows or you can buy a number of things available in the market. Reduce hot spots

There are software solutions available to help you with the minor faults while shooting. There are software solutions available to correct or enhance practically every drawback you have.

There are carrying cases available to suit all your equipments, which make it easy for you to carry them around if any need arise. They are compact and beautifully built.

All these gadgets are available in a wide variety so that one can choose what suits their need and pocket and make their photographic experience a pleasant one.

Article Directory: http://www.articlecube.com

Sharpics specialises in
tabletop camera
stand, camera tabletop stand, tabletop studio.We offer portable seamless
backgrounds, daylight studio lighting,
and tabletop monopods
for camera stability.

General Tips for Flower Photography

2008-10-27T00:48:00.010+08:00

The flower and bee...photo by Home Photography
By Timothy Spencer

There is nothing more bedazzling than an open field of flowers reaching out from the ground to caress the sun. As any amateur or professional photographer would claim, flowers have always been a staple subject in photography classes, being delivered by the bulk to the studio or having hobbyists going out to various flower markets.

If your conditions for shooting flowers are fixed by a studio, checking the fresh batch of delivery helps you segregate the worn flora from those that can be used. Damaged petals, impurities in the color and how the stems curve are a few things you can look at.

The general guidelines for shooting flowers are really a reflection of the basics of photography. In sum, a photographer should first of all, identify the subject: are you shooting the entire flower arrangement, or are you just highlighting a portion of your subject. Determining your subject will depend on the context of your shoot. Usually, straight out product shots involves having to shoot the entire flower arrangement plus the vase to see the subject in its entirety. Lifestyle shots do not require having to show the entire subject from bud to stem to vase and would rather settle for a creative execution.

Shooting using back light through the hole from the window by Visuallens

Determining the subject also entails the use of some photography tips. The use of patterns or “abstracting” flowers is a common tip that you can never go wrong with. Rather than highlighting the flower as well, a flower it would be interesting to see the flower as a mere shape. This means highlighting the flower’s petal outline, going up close and focusing on the structure of the veins, or going wide and taking a row of flowers as they shoot towards the sky.

A tip when shooting veins is to have a natural backlight behind the flower (an artificial light source like candles or house lights or best of all - natural, but not direct sunlight) to highlight the lines and patterns The end result is a play with shapes and lines that “lead” your eyes to a certain part of the photo. An example of the leading lines technique would be to highlight petal veins that lead your eyes towards the center of the flower bud, which is your main subject. Another example would be to shoot the flower from its side with the stem leading up to the flower bud.

Using leading lines and abstraction techniques are two simple ways to identify and style your subject, specifically with flowers.

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This article was written by Timothy Spencer for Island Rose - Flower Shop Philippines. We hope you enjoyed this article and encourage you to visit our website. Through Island Rose, you can send Gifts to Philippines or simply browse through our blog for more informative articles.

How to Add Creativity in Photography

2008-10-20T22:19:00.003+08:00

Photography is completely an art and one has to be cautious and visionary in order to learn this art. If you are already a photographer then you must be aware of the basic requirements of being a perfect photographer. And for learners or aspiring people who are eager to be a part of this field, one thing is must. That is creativity, which is an essential need for every photographer.

Need for Creativity in Photography

Creativity with a different vision is the most important thing required in photography. This is something that makes a difference between a normal people and a skilled professional photographer. Every person can click photographs with a camera, but what makes the difference between outputs is the creativity added by skilled photography professionals. No matter, in what kind of photography you are involved, you need to deliver the best to your customers. Whether it is wedding photography, fashion photography, or child photography; everywhere you need to present unique concepts of photography. That is possible only by including required set of creative vision.

In every shades of photography, a perfect photographer has to think beyond the normal scene to be captured. He has to think about the ways to make even a normal scene like special one that is possible only through a creative mind and vision to create a difference. For example, during bridal photography a photographer captures the pictures of bride in different poses before and after marriage. These photographs are lifetime assets for both bride and groom. So, the main duty of wedding photographer is not only clicking photographs, but he also has to capture the shame, hesitation, and excitement of the bride to make it more special.

The same approach applies to food photography and child photography. During food photography you have to capture photograph in very different way, so that the aroma and taste of food can be judged by only looking at those photographs. It should be like an appetizer for all viewers. In child photography or commercial shoots involving kids, a professional child photographer acts as a kid and makes the clicking for him easier. He captures every shade of naughtiness and quick wit illustrated on child's face.

A professional photographer also adds creativity in photographs during editing process. Through his computer skills he creates different effects and visuals to make photographs look even more attractive. Through their creativity, photographers can make their job more accurate and appealing.

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For More Information Visit :- http://www.1stjournal.com

Wildlife Photography With Character - Four Tips

2008-10-09T23:38:00.007+08:00

Photo by:Home Photography

Story by: Andrew Goodall

Wildlife photography is not just for professional photographers. Almost anyone with a camera is occasionally inspired to record a special wildlife experience in a photograph. For an inexperienced photographer, it is easy to be disappointed with the quality of your results. You see the great photography that can be found in galleries, on calendars and postcards, and wonder why you are not getting the same results.

These days, unfortunately, our first tendency is to blame the camera, assuming that the professionals have much better cameras than yours. Even worse, many people even assume the images are not genuine photos at all; they must have been enhanced or even manufactured on a computer.

The truth is, you don't need an expensive camera or to be an expert with software to produce good wildlife photos. Don't forget, great wildlife photography existed long before digital cameras arrived on the scene. In fact, you don't even need special techniques to take better wildlife photos. There are some simple things you can do that can help you take better wildlife photos no matter what sort of camera you have, or how expert you are in photography.

Here are some simple, low-tech tips for better wildlife photography.

Wildlife Photography Tip #1. Context Matters.

A wildlife photo looks best if it is taken in a natural setting, or at least looks that way. You should always consider the background in a wildlife photo. If it is obvious your photo was taken in a zoo, for example, the connection with nature is broken and the background spoils the shot.

Just why is it that some people, when they find a small animal like a frog, a beetle or a lizard...feel the need to pick it up? A photo of an animal in your hand is just the same as the zoo photo - it destroys the illusion of nature that you wanted to capture in the first place. If you can photograph your subject in a natural setting, with the colours of nature in the background, your photo will be much more attractive.

Wildlife Photography Tip #2. If The Background Is Distracting, Get Rid Of It.

Sometimes a great subject is found in a terrible setting, and there is nothing you can do to change that. You can, however, minimize the distraction of an unfortunate background, and you don't need a computer to do it.

Simply get as close to the subject as possible and zoom in with your largest lens. This reduces the depth of field so much that only your subject should be in focus. Not much of your background will be visible, and what you can see should be completely out of focus, and therefore not a problem.

Wildlife Photography Tip #3. Unusual Behaviour Makes Unique Photographs.

Be patient when taking your wildlife photos. There are millions of snapshots out there which are well-exposed but dull and uninteresting. The shots that stand out are the ones where the subject does something out of the ordinary. I am not talking about tap-dancing in a tutu; all it takes is a yawn, a wink, an interesting turn of the head, a head tucked under a wing...simple things that will set your photo apart from millions of others.

Animals sometimes turn up in unexpected locations which can also add interest to a photo. A kangaroo in the grass is not so unique, but find one on the beach and you have a photo on your hands.

Wildlife Photography Tip #4. The Eyes Are The Key To A Successful Photo.

Most importantly when taking wildlife photos, concentrate on getting the eyes sharp and clear. This is the feature that creates a personal connection between the subject and the viewer. If the eyes are out of focus or lost in shadow, the connection is lost. On the other hand, if the subject is mostly out of focus, or even hidden behind a bush, you can still get a great photo...as long as the eyes are sharp and well captured.

So there you have four easy tips that can add character to your wildlife photography. Note that none of them require special equipment or complex techniques. Like so much of nature photography, a good image is not about technology; it is about timing, patience, and your sensitivity to the subject. Happy Snapping!

Andrew Goodall believes that with a small amount of guidance, anyone can become a better photographer, no matter what sort of camera they have. Andrew's ebook "Photography in Plain English" is a perfect place to start. Check it out at http://www.naturesimage.com.au and while you are there, sign up to the online newsletter for even more tips...it's free!

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Learn Wedding Photography - Preparation Basics For The Big Day

2008-09-30T23:57:00.009+08:00

Pix by Visuallens

Like many professionals, Tom Jackson began his career by shooting weddings. You can make a substantial income shooting weddings with very little overhead. He would like to share with you of his experiences in this article.

If you have been used to taking photos with a traditional camera and film, you may be surprised at how easy it can be to lose a whole memory card full of pictures, because of seemingly simple errors. With a film camera. it does not matter if the battery gives out right at the time you take a photo. The only problem that might occur, is that you lose that one shot. You just rewind the film, and you are good to go. As great as digital is, there are pitfalls that can really bite you if you do not prepare for them.

You need to make time to plan ahead whenever you are about to take important photos for any event, be it a wedding, graduation or even a family day out sightseeing in a new city. And the reason for the time? Lets take a deeper look. Each of the points I cover here carry the same weight as the other. In other words, do all of the following to make sure that you have a successful day, taking wonderful photos for you and the subjects.

1. Make sure that all your batteries are fully charged.

If your camera uses a proprietary battery, then you need to make sure that it is fully charged before you start the days event. Depending on how many photos you may take on the day, (see, more planning), you may need to buy an extra battery and have it fully charged as well. A lot of the smaller compact cameras, and even the larger DSLRs, often take special built batteries. They can be quite expensive, but if you think you might be taking a large number of photos, then it will be to your benefit to purchase an extra battery. It will always come in handy in the future, so it will never be a waste of your money.
2. Make sure that you have enough memory cards to hold all of the photos you will be taking on the day.

Many of the smaller compact cameras can only take smaller capacity memory cards. So, if you are planning on taking photos for a special days event, then it would be wise to make sure that you have one or two spare memory cards. Also, be aware, that if your camera can take the larger capacity memory cards, and you think you can take all the photos on just one large card, then you also need to consider that if you have problems with that card, you will lose all the images from the day. That’s why I often suggest having two or three cards available, so that if anything were to happen to one of your cards, you would still have images on the other cards. Some of the larger capacity cards available these days, can store hundreds and even thousands of images before you need to change to a new card. I can only imagine the pain of losing a card with hundreds of irreplaceable images.

3. Before you start the days event, make sure that you format the memory cards and get them prepared for the days event.

Be sure to format the card in the camera you will be using for the days event. Industry experts all agree that the best way to format and prepare a memory card, is to do it in the camera you will be using. Do not format the card using your computer. By using the cameras, it ensures that you have maximum compatibility. Also, if there is going to be a problem with the card, this is most often the time where the problem will show up. If the card does not format properly in the camera, then do not use that card during the event, but try and rectify the problem when you return home. Never try and use a card that shows any sign of a problem. It is just not worth the effort. You can try all kinds of things once you get home and have the time to spend and diagnose the problem.

4. Never use a memory card in more than one kind of camera without formatting the card.

You run the risk of causing problems if you take a card out of one camera and use it in another camera that is not the same make and model. Most cameras will write the file a little differently, and so if you use the card in a different camera, you again run the risk of losing images. If you intend to use a card in a different camera, that make sure that you copy all the files onto your computer, and then format the card in the other camera before use.

5. Part of the reason for item 1 above (fully charged batteries), is not just to make sure you have enough power to take photos during the days event, but also to ensure that the camera will not power off during writing a file to the memory card. If the camera battery fails while writing a file, you will not only lose that image, but the rest of the images on the card may be lost forever. A memory card is just like a computer hard drive. It has a directory and file structure so that the camera and your computer know where the files are, how many files are on the card, and how big the files are. If the camera fails during writing a file to the card, it can corrupt the card, just like a hard drive crash. Also, never take a card out of the camera while the file is still being written to the card. Always make sure that if you need to remove the card after taking a photo, wait a few seconds to make sure the file has been written to the card to avoid problems.

6. When it comes time to move your photos onto your computer’s hard drive, I suggest that you use a memory card reader and not the camera. Again, it is always possible that the camera’s battery could fail during the process to copy the photos over to your hard drive. This will not usually be a problem, but it could cause the card to become corrupt and therefore potentially lose your images. Also, it is usually much faster to use a memory card reader to transfer your images. Card readers are very inexpensive, and you have a choice of using a multi format reader or one designed just for the card type your camera uses. They are so cheap, that I always carry one with me so that if I need to, I can either copy files to a computer that happens to be at the location I am shooting, or to display some of the images onto the computer monitor for the client or subjects to see right away.

So, if you would really like to lose all those treasured photos, if you really want to have the hassle of explaining to your client, family or friends that you have lost all of the images you took, then just ignore these tips. You will lose some money, some friends and have to endure the wrath of some potentially very angry people. And you will lose the word of mouth advertising that can end up making you a lot of money over the years. There are wedding photographers who consistently make well into the 6 figure income. And in the US alone, the wedding photography market is in excess of five billion dollars a year. Not a bad market to be in.

So, if you follow these simple steps, you will ensure that your images will be saved, and everyone will live happily ever after. OK, well, maybe we do not need to be that melodramatic, but I am sure you get the picture (pun intended). Your clients will be happy, you will be happy, and your wallet will be happy. Plus, you get the benefit and the pride of knowing that you did a good job and that a small part of you will live on and be enjoyed by generations of people looking at your photos. Just like an artist has people viewing their paintings. It just does not get better than that. Enjoy.

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You can get more info on wedding photography, cameras and computer image editing, and see examples of his work, or get more info on how to start your own business http://howtoshootweddings.net or for free hints and tips visit the blog http://learnweddingphotography.blogspot.com

Digital Photography Secrets For Creating Tack Sharp Shots

2008-09-21T10:30:00.010+08:00

Story By: Pat Lyne Pix by HomePhotography

Whether you are a beginner or serious photographer, this is an article by Pat Lyne, to share with you the tips how to take a sharp and focus photo.

There are lots of ingredients to making a spectacular photograph, but the most important is for the picture to be in sharp focus. Even the slightest blur takes away from the picture, no matter how good the subject, lighting and color.

Photographers have somewhat varying opinions on what constitutes a tack sharp picture, but generally, a tack sharp photograph has good, clean lines. The picture has clear definition, instead of a soft blending of lines, or even downright blurry.

There are several things you can do to increase your chances of getting that coveted tack sharp picture.

Hand-Held Digital Photography Tips

If you’re hand-holding your camera, brace your arms against your sides to help steady the camera. If your camera has anti-shake technology such as Vibration Reduction (VR) or Image Stabilization (IS) lens that can be switched on and off, this is the time to have it turned on.

You can also lean against a wall or tree or whatever sturdy object that’s handy, and help keep yourself and your camera steady. Alternatively, lean or lay your camera or lens on some readily available sturdy object to help steady the camera.

Steadying your camera by hooking the strap under your elbow and wrapping the rest around your forearm will also help stabilize the camera and hold it steady in your hand.

Getting those tack sharp photos while hand-holding your camera can be difficult, so to increase your chances of getting that perfect shot, use the burst or continuous shooting mode on your camera to take several shots at once. That increases your chances that at least one of the pictures will be in sharp focus.

Tripods For Better Focus

There’s no getting around the fact that it’s easier to get a tack sharp photo using a tripod. You just can’t hold the camera as steady as a tripod will. And like most things in life, with a tripod you get what you pay for. A cheap tripod will help, but won’t hold your camera rock steady like a more expensive tripod will. The moral of the story is to buy the best tripod you can reasonably afford.

The more expensive tripods don’t come with the head attached. You have to buy it separately, but that means you get to choose what suits you best. To get a sharp photo, buy a quality ballhead that won’t let your camera slowly slide to one side.

If you’re somewhere that carrying a tripod just won’t work, beanbags make a nice cushion for cameras in these settings. They cushion your camera, helping to steady it and increase your ability to situate the camera to focus on the subject you want.

To improve your chances of a tack sharp photo even more, use a cable release instead of pressing the shutter. It may not seem like much, but the movement from pressing the shutter will make the camera move enough to prevent getting those tack sharp photos.

If you don’t have a cable release, the self timer will also work. It allows you to press the shutter, while giving the camera time to stabilize before it actually takes the picture.

More Advanced Digital Photography Secrets For Sharp Shots

If you have a digital SLR camera, there are even more ways to make sure your camera stays steady while taking pictures.

The first is to use mirror lock-up. This locks your camera’s mirror in the up position so when you take a picture the mirror doesn’t move until after the picture is taken, limiting the movement inside the camera. This means to take a picture, you will have to press the shutter release button twice on
your remote or cable release (you’re not going to all this trouble and pressing the shutter release on the camera are you?). The first press lifts the mirror and the second press actually takes the picture.

The second method is to turn off the Vibration Reduction or Image Stabilization. That may sound counter productive, but when you’ve stabilized your camera with a tripod and other methods, the vibration reduction keeps looking for shakes/movements. If there isn’t any movement, the vibration
reduction actually causes some shaking while looking. A good rule of thumb is to keep these turned off when shooting with a tripod, and only turn them on when you’re hand-holding the camera.

One last way to increase the sharpness of your pictures is to have good glass. The lens you use makes a big difference. A quality lens with good glass is more expensive of course, but it’s another instance of getting what you pay for. Think of it as an investment in great photos.

Use as many methods as you can to steady your camera, and you’ll have a much better chance of getting those lovely tack sharp photographs.

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Digital Photography Tips has information on digital cameras, digital photography and more at

http://www.thephotographylearningcenter.com/

Ten Tips For Working With Macro Digital Photography

2008-09-13T18:45:00.008+08:00

Photo by pixellens

Macro photography is a fun way to get close up shots look stunning. If you want to get technical, the real definition of macro is the image on the film or sensor being as big as the actual subject. In this case, the camera lens must have the capability to focus on an area as small as approximately 24×36mm because this size is the size of the image on the sensor. This is frequently referred to magnification of 1:1.

What makes macro photography so enjoyable is that it’s intensely creative and powerfully flexible. You have a lot many opportunities around you right now then you think for macro photography. And you don’t need expensive digital photography equipment to do it, in fact the secret is in your lens.

Before we get into lenses in full detail, if you’re starting out in macro this type of photographic category can be a helpful starter to gaining new knowledge very quickly. You can learn new tricks and have fun experimenting in the comfort of your own home. Here are ten tips to getting sensationally clear, beautiful up close macro shots;

1. Always use a tripod. It’s important to get yourself a good quality tripod. A poor quality tripod will slip, and won’t hold the camera steady. You will get a lot of use from your tripod, so see it as an investment. You can use a good tripod for table work too, which is ideal for taking macro shots of flowers in a vase in your own home.

2. Look at your lens. It’s very important to get some good extension from your lens when taking macro shots. If you already own a macro lens have a look at the 2x tele-converter to double its effective focal length. A tele-converter lens will work to provide greater maximum magnification at the minimum focusing distance.

3. Use a shutter release cable. Using one of these very handy things will reduce any potential vibrations, movement or harmful blur. Add a self timer to your macro along with your shutter release cable to add razor sharpness to your images.

4. Don’t forget your mirror lock-up if you have this available to reduce camera vibration, movement or blur even more.

5. Remember that aperture affects depth of field. Using an aperture of between f16 and f32 is a good place to work with. You can also use a while aperture such as f2.8 which will give you a very shallow depth of field and then you can be very selective on what you want to focus on.

6. For beautiful flowers or parts of trees or bushes, remember a windy day will just frustrated you as it will most likely create blur and it will be very hard to capture your flower well. Try cutting it off the branch (if possible) and bring it inside. You can peg it up or put it in a vase to keep it still and out of the wind.

7. Keep a clean background in mind. A background with a lot of busyness is distracting. It will take the viewers eye off your main subject. Try a pure white background to emphasize cleanliness, or a pure black background to enhance bold colour. You can use neutral tones for macro such as pale blue or brown. All you have to do is use coloured

8. Break the rules. I have never listened to anyone when taking macro pictures. I love to take weird, unusual, totally abstract subjects to include in my macro collection. You can also use metal as an interesting subject. (Jewellery, pins, forks, spoons, etc.)

9. If you don’t have adequate lighting then use your own. Don’t be afraid to use a lamp, or flash off-side, but not too close. You don’t want to overexpose your subject. You can try a torch if you like to create interesting shadows. And don’t forget black and white macro shots look fantastic too.

10. If you use a low ISO such as ISO 50 for example, just remember you’ll get better results for your macro shots. Since you should be using a tripod, a low ISO should not hinder you. Its fine to use anywhere from ISO 50 to ISO 200 for your macro shots. Any higher and you’d be getting nosier images. I’ve always set the ISO to the lowest setting when dong macro, such as ISO 50. I would recommend to use a noise reduction filter on your camera if possible or you can use some very nifty tricks for reducing noise after the shot has been taken. (See my blog with article about reducing noise at: www.DigitalPhotography.WordPress.com) If possible try shooting in RAW mode for the absolute best in image control at the post process level.

You will get a lot of inspiration by looking at images from professional photographers. Look and learn and then find your own style.

By Amy Renfrey

Article Source: http://www.content.onlypunjab.com

Top Ten Digital Photography Tips

2008-09-08T09:06:00.001+08:00

Story by Derrick Story, author of Digital Photography Pocket Guide, 3rd Edition

You’ve heard this before: Digital cameras do all the work. You just push the button and great pictures magically appear. The better the camera, the better the photos. Isn’t that right? Heck no!

The truth is that you can make great photos with a simple consumer point-and-shoot camera, or take lousy shots with the most expensive Nikon. It’s not the camera that makes beautiful images; it’s the photographer. With a little knowledge and a willingness to make an adjustment here and there, you can squeeze big time photos out of the smallest digicam.

To help you down the road to great image making, here are ten tips that will enable you shoot like a pro (without maxing out your credit card on all that expensive equipment).

1. Warm Up Those Tones

Have you ever noticed that your shots sometimes have a cool, clammy feel to them? If so, you’re not alone. The default white balance setting for digital cameras is auto, which is fine for most snapshots, but tends to be a bit on the “cool” side.

When shooting outdoor portraits and sunny landscapes, try changing your white balance setting from auto to cloudy. That’s right, cloudy. Why? This adjustment is like putting a mild warming filter on your camera. It increases the reds and yellows resulting in richer, warmer pictures.

If you don’t believe me, then do a test. Take a few outdoor shots with the white balance on auto, then take the same picture again with the setting on cloudy. Upload the images to your computer and look at them side by side. My guess is that you’ll like the warmer image better.

2: Sunglasses Polarizer

If you really want to add some punch to your images, then get your hands on a polarizing filter. A polarizer is the one filter every photographer should have handy for landscapes and general outdoor shooting. By reducing glare and unwanted reflections, polarized shots have richer, more saturated colors, especially in the sky.

What’s that you say? Your digital camera can’t accommodate filters. Don’t despair. I’ve been using this trick for years with my point-and-shoot cameras. If you have a pair of quality sunglasses, then simply take them off and use them as your polarizing filter. Place the glasses as close to the camera lens as possible, then check their position in the LCD viewfinder to make sure you don’t have the rims in the shot.

If your camera doesn’t accept filters, then you can still achieve the effects of a polarizer by placing your sunglasses over the lens. Figure 2a is shot normally without any filtration. Figure 2b is shot during the same session, but with sunglasses placed over the lens. Notice the enhanced colors and deeper sky tones. (Canon PowerShot S200, Program mode)	Figure 2a.
	Figure 2b.

For the best effect, position yourself so the sun is over either your right or left shoulder. The polarizing effect is strongest when the light source is at a 90-degree angle from the subject.

3. Outdoor Portraits That Shine

One of the great hidden features on digital cameras is the fill flash or flash on mode. By taking control of the flash so it goes on when you want it to, not when the camera deems it appropriate, you’ve just taken an important step toward capturing great outdoor portraits.

In flash on mode, the camera exposes for the background first, then adds just enough flash to illuminate your portrait subject. The result is a professional looking picture where everything in the composition looks good. Wedding photographers have been using this technique for years.

Figure 3. By placing the subjects in the open shade beneath a tree and turning on the fill flash, both the boys and the background are properly exposed. (Canon PowerShot G2, 1/250th at f-4, flash on)

After you get the hang of using the flash outdoors, try a couple variations on this theme by positioning the subject so the sun illuminates the hair from the side or the back, often referred to as rim lighting. Another good technique is to put the model in the shade under a tree, then use the flash to illuminate the subject. This keeps the model comfortable and cool with no squinty eyes from the harsh sun, and this often results in a more relaxed looking portrait.

Remember, though, that most built-in camera flashes only have a range of 10 feet (or even less!), so make sure you don’t stand too far away when using fill flash outdoors.

4. Macro Mode Madness

Remember as a kid discovering the whole new world beneath your feet while playing on the grass? When you got very close to the ground, you could see an entire community of creatures that you never knew existed.

These days, you might not want to lie on your belly in the backyard, but if you activate the close up mode on your digital camera and begin to explore your world in finer detail, you’ll be rewarded with fresh new images unlike anything you’ve ever shot before.

Even the simplest object takes on new fascination in macro mode. And the best part is that it’s so easy to do with digital cameras.

Figure 4. Nature looks much different, and sometimes more compelling, at close range. (Canon PowerShot G2, Programmed exposure, spot meter, Close Up mode, flash off)

Just look for the close up or macro mode icon, which is usually a flower symbol, turn it on, and get as close to an object as your camera will allow. Once you’ve found something to your liking, hold the shutter button down halfway to allow the camera to focus. When the confirmation light gives you the go ahead, press the shutter down the rest of the way to record the image.

Keep in mind that you have very shallow depth of field when using the close up mode, so focus on the part of the subject that’s most important to you, and let the rest of the image go soft.

5. Horizon Line Mayhem

For some mysterious reason, most human beings have a hard time holding the camera level when using the LCD monitors on their digicams. The result can be cockeyed sunsets, lopsided landscapes, and tilted towers.

Part of the problem is that your camera’s optics introduce distortion when rendering broad panoramas on tiny, two-inch screens. Those trees may be standing straight when you look at them with the naked eye, but they seem to be bowing inward on your camera’s monitor. No wonder photographers become disoriented when lining up their shots.

Figure 5. How do you square up an image in the LCD viewfinder so it appears “level” when you view it later on the computer? Look for nature’s horizontal lines and use them as guides. Sometimes you can use the line where the sky meets the ocean, other times you can use a strip of land as your level. In this case I used the shoreline of a mountain lake to help me align this composition. (Canon PowerShot G2, Aperture Priority exposure set to f-8, polarizer filter)

What can you do? Well, there’s no silver bullet to solve all of your horizon line problems, but you can make improvements by keeping a few things in mind.

First of all, be aware that it’s important to capture your images as level as possible. If you’re having difficulty framing the scene to your liking, then take your best shot at a straight picture, reposition the camera slightly, take another picture, and then maybe one more with another adjustment. Chances are very good that one of the images will “feel right” when you review them on the computer. Simply discard the others once you find the perfectly aligned image.

If you practice level framing of your shots, over time the process will become more natural, and your percentage of level horizon lines will increase dramatically.

6: Massive Media Card

When you’re figuring out the budget for your next digital camera, make sure you factor in the purchase of an additional memory card. Why? Because the cards included with your new high-tech wonder toy are about as satisfying as an airline bag of peanuts when you’re dying of hunger.

If you have a 3 megapixel camera, get at least a 256MB card, 512MBs for 4 megapixel models, and 1GB for for 6 megapixels and up.

That way you’ll never miss another shot because your memory card is full.

7: High Rez All the Way

One of the most important reasons for packing a massive memory card is to enable you to shoot at your camera’s highest resolution. If you paid a premium price for a 6 megapixel digicam, then get your money’s worth and shoot at 6 megapixels. And while you’re at it, shoot at your camera’s highest quality compression setting too.

Why not squeeze more images on your memory card by shooting a lower resolution and low quality compression settings? Because you never know when you’re going to capture the next great image of the 21st century. And if you take a beautiful picture at the low 640 x 480 resolution, that means you can only make a print about the size of a credit card, not exactly the right dimensions for hanging in the museum.

On the other hand, if you recorded the image at 2272 x 1704 (4 megapixels) or larger, then you can make a lovely 8- x 10-inch photo-quality print suitable for framing or even for gracing the cover of Time magazine. And just in case you were able to get as close to the action as you had liked, having those extra pixels enables you to crop your image and still have enough resolution to make a decent sized print.

The point is, if you have enough memory (and you know you should), then there’s no reason to shoot at lower resolution and risk missing the opportunity to show off your work in a big way.

8: Tolerable Tripod

I once overheard someone say, “He must be a real photographer because he’s using a tripod.” Well, whether or not you use a tripod has nothing to do with you being a true photographer. For certain types of shots though, these three-legged supports can be very useful.

The problem is tripods are a pain in the butt to carry around. They are bulky, unwieldily, and sometimes downright frustrating. Does the phrase “necessary evil” come to mind?

For digital shooters there’s good news: the UltraPod II by Pedco. This compact, versatile, ingenious device fits in your back pocket and enables you to steady your camera in a variety of situations. You can open the legs and set it on any reasonable flat surface such as a tabletop or a boulder in the middle of nowhere. But you can also employ its Velcro strap and attach your camera to an available pole or tree limb.

Figure 6. The UltraPod II is lightweight and affordable (less than $20 typically).

You might not need a tripod that often, but when you do, nothing else will work. Save yourself the pain and money of a big heavy lug of a pod, and check out the svelte UltraPod. Yes, then you too can be a real photographer.

9: Self Timer Fun

Now that you have your UltraPod in hand, you can explore another under-used feature found on almost every digital camera: theself timer. This function delays the firing of the shutter (after the button has been pushed) for up to 10 seconds, fixing one of the age old problems in photography: the missing photographer.

Hey, just because you’ve been donned as the creative historian in your clan, that doesn’t mean that your shining face should be absent from every frame of the family’s pictorial accounting. You could hand your trusty digicam over to strangers while you jump in the shot, but then you take the chance of them dropping, or even worse, running off with your camera.

Instead, attach your UltraPod, line up the shot, activate the self timer, and get in the picture. This is usually a good time to turn on the flash to ensure even exposure of everyone in the composition (but remember that 10 foot flash range limit!). Also, make sure the focusing sensor is aimed at a person in the group and not the distant background, or you’ll get very sharp trees and fuzzy family members.

Self timers are good for other situations, too. Are you interested in making long exposures of cars driving over the Golden Gate Bridge at dusk? Once again, secure your camera on a tripod, then trip the shutter using the self timer. By doing so, you prevent accidental jarring of the camera as you initiate the exposure.

10. Slow Motion Water

I come from a family where it’s darn hard to impress them with my artsy pictures. One of the few exceptions happened recently when my sister commented that a series of water shots I had shown her looked like paintings. That was close enough to a compliment for me.

What she was responding to was one of my favorite types of photographs: slow motion water. These images are created by finding a nice composition with running water, then forcing the camera’s shutter to stay open for a second or two, creating a soft, flowing effect of the water while all the other elements in the scene stay nice and sharp.

You can create a painterly effect with moving water by mounting your camera on a tripod and slowing the shutter to an exposure of 1 second or longer. (Canon PowerShot G2, Aperture priority set to f-8, shutter speed 1 second, polarizer filter, UltraPod II tripod)	Figure 7a.
	Figure 7b.

You’ll need a tripod to steady the camera during the long exposure, and you probably should use the self timer to trip the shutter. If you camera has an aperture priority setting, use it and set the aperture to f-8, f-11, or f-16 if possible. This will give you greater depth of field and cause the shutter to slow down.

Ideally, you’ll want an exposure of one second or longer to create the flowing effect of the water. That means you probably will want to look for streams and waterfalls that are in the shade instead of the bright sunlight.

Another trick is to use your sunglasses over the lens to darken the scene and create even a longer exposure. Plus you get the added bonus of eliminating distracting reflections from your composition.

Final Thoughts

Most digital cameras, even the consumer point-and-shoot models, have a tremendous amount of functionality built into them. By applying a little ingenuity and creativity, you can take shots that will make viewers ask, “So what kind of camera do you have?”

You can tell them the answer, but inside, you’ll know it’s not the camera responsible for those great pictures. It’s the photographer.

Derrick Story is the digital media evangelist for O’Reilly. His current book is The Digital Photography Companion. You can follow him on Twitter or visit www.thedigitalstory.com.

Better Photo Tips - New Photo Insights

2008-09-05T10:39:00.006+08:00

Photo By:Pixellens
Story By : Tedric Garrison

We all do it at one point or another. We like taking photos of nature (for example), so we take more and more photos of nature, and tend over look other areas of photography. Then one day, someone calls up and says, "Hey, we were talking the other day about you doing photography. I think I have some extra work for you, are you interested?"

"Sure!" You say enthusiastically, then almost as an after thought you ask, "What are we shooting?"

The person you are talking with has decided to go for the World Speed Record in a wheel chair. Now, I've taken photos of people and I've taken photos at more traditional sporting events, like Football, Basketball, and Soccer; but how do you gear up for something you have NEVER shot before? The first photo tip to remember is to always have business cards with you. Because even though he said "the other day" you realize it has been almost two years since you had this discussion, but you did give him a business card and obviously he kept it.

Back to the problem at hand, this photo shoot is prior to the actual event. The photos he wants you to take are to be used as promotion shots. The customer suggests a local park for the photo shoot location. The first photo obstacle is the location itself, yes there are some nice points but, this park has office buildings on one side and a huge school on the other side. Always be aware of the background in your photo shoot.

Admittedly this was a new situation for me, but the first dozen shots or so just didn't feel right to me. Then my mind starting thinking about how I take photos of little kids at weddings; I get down on their level. Yes, this was a full size adult, but the photos didn't feel right until I was at the same level he was. If the subject is looking down and you photograph looking down at him, there is no interaction. Always take your photos with interaction in mind.

This particular person designed this particular wheel chair specifically for racing. Being totally naïve regarding handicap racing, I had to reply on his expertise to get the right photo. Regardless of the type of event you are shooting, remember this photo tip: use other people's knowledge to make your photos look more professional. In wheelchair racing for example; the front wheels control all the steering. If I had only shot photos with his hands resting on the back wheels, anybody who did know the event would know I (the photographer) didn't know what I was doing.

Even though we started this photo shoot early in the morning, the higher the sun got, the more dramatic the shadows got. When the subject was in an actual racing stance and he was leaning forward in his chair it did create some really deep shadows. I experimented with a reflector, a flash and some photos with both. Even though it was a beautiful day, quote "not a cloud in the sky"; I had to be prepared to control the existing light.

To review the lessons learned when photographing something totally out of your everyday experience, this is what I had to learn, or relearn to get the job done:

A) Always have photo business cards available, you never know when they can lead to new and exciting photo opportunities. (Even two years later.)

B) Always be aware of the background! That sounds obvious, but you want to make sure the subject is the main center of attention in your photo, not a reflection off an office window.

C) Always take photos with interaction in mind. Originally I was going to say at the same eye level, but during this photo shoot I also got down and took pictures at ground level as well.

D) Always use other people's expertise to make your photos look good. This is especially true when shooting things you have never shot before. The subject is more likely to like your work if he or she knows they actually helped with the input.

E) Always be prepared to control the light in your photo to meet the needs of the shoot. A bright sunny day is not always the best time to take a great photograph. Remember this: the brighter the light, the harsher the shadows.

A final thought, as a photographer, your most valuable tool is your mind and the ability to think and see creatively. Do not get so wrapped up in one specialty area of photography that you forget to apply those same photo tips to other areas as well. Life is a journey, not a destination. Likewise, who and what we are as photographers is what we learn from the different types of things we allow ourselves to photograph.

Award winning writer / photographer Tedric Garrison has over 30 years experience in photography. As a Graphic Art Major, he has a unique perspective on the Elements of Design and how those elements relate to all aspects of photography. His photo eBook "Your Creative Edge" (http://www.betterphototips.com/creativeedge.htm) proves that creativity CAN be taught. Today, he shares his wealth of knowledge with the world, at:http://www.betterphototips.com

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