Orangutan Diary

Telaga Air and Damai Central

2011-07-08T14:57:00.001+01:00

Had a trip yesterday to Telaga Air, ate Mee Goreng (veggie style), saw Sunda Woodpecker (see video , I hope) on mooring posts. These tiny woodpeckers fly between the waterside trees and the poles supporting the older fishing boat moorings and, judging by the holes, nest in the posts. On the way to Telaga we detoured along the local roads to nowhere, across new bridges (replacing old wooden ones), onwards to nowhere and then turning back towards somewhere. On turning, M saw something in a palm tree. This is very annoying because she was driving whilst I was birdwatching. I looked at the tree a saw an Eagle. This is an Eagle up a palm tree. Very annoying. Car stopped, telescope out, focus on bird and dodgy digiscope a few shots. Subsequent study of photos reveals, I think, an immature Wallace's Hawk-Eagle (could be a Blyth's HE but more likely a Wallace's). The two HEs have two-feather crests even when immature. I think that the attached photo shows the beginnings of the crest.

After Telaga we went to a Chinese settlement between Matang and Batu Kawa. We had driven past a few days before and, having never been before, decided to drop in there sometime. Don't know what it was called but we called in, drove around and stopped near a fabric shop. I was overjoyed and went to a Chinese store a few doors away. Chinese store sells beer at 4 for 10 (good), local-made vodka (40%) at £2 per bottle (good if you are tired of life) and will wash your car (snow-wash) for £1. The shop is a family affair and the various children either wash your car or follow you around suggesting suitable purchases. A personable young lady tried to sell me a foreign Mango. Didn't work because Mangos are rubbish. A hefty young lad, whilst eager to go fishing, followed me around the shop with his fishing rod, looked at my gut and pointed at the shelves of biscuits. I demurred. He did however persuade me that the snow-wash was a bargain. Another family member persuaded M that the vodka was a bargain (the orange flavoured vodka).

It is always good to know shops that sell at 4 for 10 and such establishments should receive one's full support. Also, whilst I was waiting for car wash to conclude, a largish small heron flew over. I shall return. Eventually we ended up at Chinese foodcourt near airport and ate the usual cheap and excellent (excellently cheap) meal, followed by ice-cream at Auntie's.

Today we have been idling about again. At 6.00pm we went with Terry and June (ha ha) to Damai Central to see the crowds attending the Rainforest Music Festival across the road. We have acquired by nefarious means a pss enabling us to drive up to Damai. The peasantry are stopped about 500km from our apartments. We drive through and into the Central car park. Apparently we should have a further pass to get on the Central car park but I forgot to stop a the security check point, drove on, parked up and ignored suspicious looks from military-looking gentlemen. Went to pub (opened today and too expensive), got noodles from Malaya stall (dirt cheap), got cans of Carlsberg from sponsor's tent (too expensive), went back to pub, returned home to watch Tour de France. Festival goes on over 3 days. Loads of visitors, don't know why. No brass bands.

Long time no blog

2011-07-01T14:32:00.005+01:00

More than 3 weeks since last blog. Terry the Aussie has been back in Australia for three weeks and has just got back. I hope that our expeditions (with Daf) will recommence soon and I will have something to blog about. Since the last blog I have not been up to much but, as well as more walking/drinking outings being imminent, the Autumn influx of sea- and shore-birds is just around the corner. In fact the bird numbers and species are on the up at Buntal. Viewed from Sri Buntal (aka The Old Lady's) the Buntal/Bako estuary is getting busy. Terns are there in increasing numbers and I have seen, I think, Sooty Terns and Greater Crested Terns, albeit at some distance. Whilst enjoying a bottle of TsingTao at the old lady's place I saw a few gull-like beasties across the water. Gulls are unlikely, if not impossible, in the bay and a different answer is needed. I watched them for a while and when one flew I could see that it was a tern, not a gull. Within a few minutes the tern landed and a mature Gull-billed Tern landed next to it and fed it. That's the answer, says I. Little Terns are fishing all over the bay and, whilst there is some way to go to the peak time, there are waders to be seen. Ruddy Turnstones, Far Eastern Curlews, Terek's Sandpipers, Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew are there, but not yet in big numbers. Before I continue boring you with birds, a little more about Sri Buntal. I have mentioned before that I use it as a bar and off-licence. I tend to turn up there in mid-afternoon when the old lady and her husband have settled down to watch a Chinese soap-opera. I walk up the steps to the restaurant deck that is open to the four winds. I set up my telescope, put my binoculars on a table and look hopefully to the rear of the deck. The old fellow looks my way and says "Tsingtao?", I say "Tsingtao". At a convenient break in transmission, a bottle of the said beer appears on my table. The landlord and landlady return their attention to the soap-opera. I start looking for birds. I understand that some Aussie sang "Stairway to Heaven" at Glastonbury - he knows nothing. When our apartment lease finishes I shall take a hammock to the old lady's place, tie it to a couple of posts and become the Buntal, old guy, birdwatching weirdo.

Whilst I haven't been doing a lot recently, it is impossible to go out and see nothing. I got Bridled Terns (maybe) at Telega Air, Streaked and Hairy-backed Bulbuls, Sooty-capped Babbler, Rufous-winged Philentoma, Temminck's Sunbird and Grey-chested Jungle Flycacher at Kubah. At Sungai Buah (Chinese Temple) I saw Black-winged Flycatcher Shrike, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and Common Fireback. We have driven a few time down the road to nowhere (No.2) and have seen Long-tailed Parakeets.. If I look over the balcony in the morning, I could well see a Blue Rock-thrush. It was there today. Looking across to the golf course today I saw 13 Whistling Ducks (species undecided). There are least another 19 loitering about on pools hidden in a small woodland.

Wherever I go I see something.

A few days ago I went to a Chinese mini-market at the Matang shop-lots and discovered a new species of beer. Chinese, equal to or exceeding 4.3% alcohol, made in a brewery opened in 1995(ish). Four for ten. That is four cans for ten ringgitts. One can is 355ml. making it about £1.45 per litre (retail) - it will be cheaper at the dealers if I can find it. It's called Pearl River and it is as good as any other round here.
Yesterday, whilst all my troubles didn't feel so far away, I went to Sama Jaya ( a little bit of forest in the Tabuan area). M was having haircut at Toni and Guy's ( I bet they look like what they sound like). I saw a Chestnut-winged Babbler and not much else until I happened to look down at the path. A colony of termites were moving house. Why they were moving was unclear. An attempt at conversation was unproductive. But there they were. Little, fat, grumpy-looking termites streaming along the edge of the path. The reason for their grumpiness was plain to see. Whilst many adults and teenagers (light brown) were powering along, others were delegated to carry little white babies. The little babies were, however, as big as the adults. No wonder the adults were grumpy. "Make the bleeders walk." I shouted, to no avail. See very short video. Better video is too big to load.

Another road to nowhere

2011-06-06T14:40:00.000+01:00

Whilst we were away (for all of 2010) a road that was under construction in the Rampangi/Pasir Pandak area was partially completed. The road goes from the Santubong Bridge into the Wetlands and will, at a future date still to be dreamt of, meet up with the other road to nowhere near Matang, I think. It may go somewhere completely different. For the moment it progresses over seven substantial bridges crossing seven substantial rivers in the Wetlands and ends at a track further into the Wetlands. The government has promised in the past that the Wetlands will never be developed. So much for promises. It looks in places like drainage channels have already been dug. The good news is that a couple of miles down the road there are Long-tailed Parakeets (see photo). These are birds that I should have seen before but haven't. Today we saw half a dozen. We also saw a Crested Serpent Eagle, Ashy Tailorbirds, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Green Imperial Pigeons, Pink-necked Green Pigeons. It was late afternoon and was either raining or had been. Loads of birdies about so we went to Sungai Buah (Chinese Temple) and lit two candles. Prayers answered with Banded Woodpecker on way out. Went across to Buntal for a few Gull-billed, Little and possibly Common Terns along with 20+ Chinese Egrets. Bought bananas, went home.

Mountain climbing

2011-05-31T07:31:00.002+01:00

As previously reported Daf Terry and me had arranged a trip to Mount Santubong to walk part of the summit trail. We convened at 10.30 on P2 (this is a carpark not a Himalayan mountain) and following an exhaustive check on our equipment we set off. Some thirty seconds after clearing P2 we arrived at the said Mount and parked up. A final equipment check and we set off. I carried one green skinned orange and a bottle of water plus the essential binoculars. Terry brought a walking stick and a suitcase. Daf carried a little orange bag containing a little orange towel - something to do with feng shooey. The ascent was hot and sweaty and uneventful. The descent was cool and uneventful. We saw one stick insect and ten bees and heard a few birdies. We looked down on Santubong village, a prawn farm, the river etc. Compared to our climb at Matang it was a piece of cake. However, the effort involved was judged to be sufficient to justify a four hour stay in a restaurant in Buntal.

The usual haunt in Buntal was closed so we crossed the road to Sri Buntal, a small place operated by a Chinese couple. Doubts were expressed about hygiene and whether the floor would take our weight. The appearance of three bottles of TsingTao beer ended any such speculation. Food was ordered and was judged to be perfect. More beer kept appearing. The bill was 150Rm and that included 80Rm (or 104Rm) for beer. After hours of drink and discussion some fool drove us home. It has been suggested that the next expedition be to Gading where there are billions of ants and thousands of steps leading to a reservoir on top of a hill. It will be hot, it will be sweaty, it will be perfect preparation for more TsingTao.

Nothing much to shout about

2011-05-28T12:42:00.002+01:00

Apart from sorting out minor trouble with car and a trip to Chupak padis, I haven't got up to much. However, on Monday next, me, Terry and Daf are going up Mount Santubong. Not all the way because we are too old and knackered. Only to a point known as F7, a kind of resting place about 45 minutes up. After F7 the climb becomes very steep. So we plan to go to F7 and then retire to Buntal for birdwatching, beafood and beer. Beafood includes bish, brawns, bussels, bockles etc with boft boodles and bried begetables.

You will have seen the previous post that I lifted from Mark Steyn's blog. I intend to post more like this along with anything interesting that happens here.

Savage Nation vs Halfwit State (cont) - By Mark Steyn - The Corner - National Review Online

2011-05-28T12:25:00.000+01:00

Savage Nation vs Halfwit State (cont) - By Mark Steyn - The Corner - National Review Online

Elephant? What Elephant?

2011-05-21T08:09:00.002+01:00

We have just returned from five days in Cambodia where Boulevards have names like Charles de Gaulle, Sihanouk, Mao Tse Tung and Monivong whilst streets have numbers like 252. We stayed on 252 at an hotel called 252. The hotel was French owned, well staffed, well maintained, friendly, clean and very reasonably priced. It has a pool with excellent poolside facilities, a bar/restaurant with affordable, excellent food/beer etc. It has only 20 rooms and the constant flow of guests suggests an excellent reputation. The clientele is mainly Western, a mix of ageing rubberneckers and well-heeled backpackers along with the odd Malaysian recruiting local women to work in Malaysia. Enough of this excellence, you might say. The Malaysian chap's initial reaction was that Cambodia was a dump like Malaysia was 30 years ago. This was screamed down a telephone at someone and repeated to the receptionist. Within a day or so he was to be seen sitting poolside and smiling at allcomers. He got his women and left happy.

I think a lot of people will leave Cambodia happy. Not happy that they are leaving but happy with the experience of having been there. It is a place, like most others, where the contrast between rich and poor is marked. The rich like big, black SUVs. They like the Range Rover, the BMW X6, the Hummer, but most of all they like the LEXUS. Most cars are from the Toyota/Lexus stable and the Lexus badge appears on models that are Toyota elsewhere, e.g. the Land Cruiser.

The poor try to make a living, as they do everywhere in the Eastern world. Those in the Western world do the same, unless of course they are entitled. The Cambodian currency is the Riel, at 4000 to the US dollar. If you want to buy the price is always in dollars but the Riel is obviously accepted if proferred. Small change is given in Riels, big deals are done in dollars. Food and drink are cheap. Alcoholic drink looks incredibly cheap to someone from the UK but our prices are distorted by the swingeing taxes levied by a lazy government on what politicians perceive to be peasants lacking self control. But enough about me, back to Cambodia.

The country is a constitutional monarchy with, obviously, a king, a prime minister appointed by the king according to the recommendation of the lower of the two houses of parliament. This should sound familiar. I have read that corruption is a problem in Cambodia and I do wonder if those in the lower house are fiddling their expenses. Cambodia is making progress in its efforts to become an industrialised nation but is still largely an agricultural society. The country's history since the end of French colonialism is one of death and destruction. Too complex to be summarised here but dominated by the rise of the socialist Pol Pot who came to power on the backs of the peasantry and set about removing any threats to his longevity, namely the middle classes and anyone else who didn't agree with him. We visited the Genocide Museum, previously the prison in Phnom Penh where opponents of the regime were tortured and killed. They died hard and having seen the photographs of the victims in extremis I don't want to see them again. Having said that, I don't want to forget them. They should be remembered along with the victim's of Mao's cultural revolution. Also remember that last year the White House Christmas tree was adorned with baubles showing the happy smiling face of Chairman Mao. We didn't go to the Killing Fields, in fact we spent all our time within the capital city.

Before going to Cambodia we read the usual travel guides and learned that malaria was a problem everywhere except in Phnom Penh so we didn't plan for trips outside. Whilst malaria is present, a wider area can be safely travelled. We also read that rich people in Hummers terrorised other road users, as if they would risk the the consequential damage to their beloved motors. So we looked around the capital at the Royal Palace, markets, shops. We hired a boat to take us down river to the Mekong and across to a village set up by refugees from Vietnam. The people lived in makeshift houses either on land or floating. It looked poor and unsanitary but the people were fed and presumably made a living. There was an immaculate church and a mansion in which the head honcho resided. On the way back we passed a gaggle of narrow boats moored on the Muslim side of the river. These were family homes. We also saw Green Bee-eaters.

Back in the city we ate at excellent cheap restaurants, drank cheap beer etc, along the riverside and watched the locals there walking, exercising and generally hanging about.

The easy method of transport in the city is the tuk-tuk, a covered trailer with bench seats pulled by a motorbike. The roads are full of pedal bikes, motor bikes, pedestrians, tuk-tuks, psychopathic Hummmers, cool Lexuses and they all follow one rule - don't hit anything. If a pedestrian wants to cross a road, he or she steps off the pavement and walks in the expectation of reaching the other side. If a tuk-tuk driver wants to turn left across a stream of traffic, he turns left and the oncoming stream avoids him. Please note that there are no female tuk-tuk drivers. I am tired and I am going to post a couple of photos and videos and go back to bed. I suffered digestive distress from the second day in although it caused no disruption to the holiday. On the way back I had a snack at KL low-cost air terminal (Starbucks) and have been throwing-up ever since (slight exaggeration but it's safer eating at roadside vendors).

On our last night in Phnom Penh we ate at the Bourgainviller Hotel rooftop restaurant overlooking the river. Earlier we had walked down the riverside and when we crossed the road, letting the traffic avoid us, M said that there was an elephant coming. See below - elephant and floating village.

Delayed wandering blog

2011-05-21T05:36:00.001+01:00

On Thurs 12 May we went on another exploration with Jackie and Terry. Out to Kota Samarahan, across the ferry and down a very long cul-de-sac to Sadong Jaya. This is a small town up a creek with a few shops and cafes and all the usual facilities including a clinic, on the fence of which can be found Scaly-breasted Munias. This bird, so it is said, was first recorded on Borneo in 1974 and is becoming increasingly common. I have only seen it before at the padis at Skuduk/Chupak and possibly in Bali. We had a wander out along a nearby jetty to watch locals fishing. On a previous trip, me and M saw monkeys walking along the muddy shore and through the mangroves but this trip the tide was in so no muddy shore and no monkeys.

After the jetty we walked back into town and went into a cafe. I had fried noodles and the others shared 10 Cornish pasties. We all had coffee.

The next stage of the trip was open to discussion but J, T and M were unsure as to which planet they were on and I had a cunning plan. We set off back down the cul-de-sac noting again the roadside stalls selling local produce and plastic bottles of unleaded petrol. The bottles are usually left in the sun - perhaps it improves the cars' performance. Rather than go back across the ferry we headed across country to the Serian Road (cunning plan). I apologised in advance to Terry about any disappearing road surface that we might encounter and assured him that it would reappear before too much damage was done to his car. After miles of Palm Oil plantations, two villages, a quarry (disappearing road surface) and a driving-test centre, we emerged onto the Serian Road at Siburan. I suggested that whilst we were so near, a trip to Chupak would be a good idea (cunning plan). So off we went and on the way I asked Terry to stop at a dead tree where I have previously seen woodpeckers. He stopped, no woodpeckers, much mickey-taking by others (see previous blog).

There are three villages called Skuduk, Payang and Chupak along the edge of a large flat area of land. Along the same edge are three small lakes fed by water from the nearby hills and, in turn, feeding the padi fields that cover the said area of land. At the time of our visit rice seedlings were being planted and the water was flowing through the irrigation system. A local chap explained that the time from planting to cropping was about three months and that two/three crops per year were sown. All this, and the observation of the workings of the irrigation system, is very interesting but it detracts from the real purpose of the visit. On entering the first village we did a left turn to take the lane along side the padis and were blessed with the sight of dozens of egrets. Water means frogs means egrets (over simplified). We parked up and me and Terry walked down a path past through the padis. It was birdie wonderland (it is even better during the Northern Winter) and we saw loads of munias and other common types. Then Terry pointed out a smallish rail-type bird. It was a White-browed Crake, a new bird for me, and as we walked more popped up from the padis on one side and crossed the path to disappear in the scrub on the other side. My bird book describes them as a Winter visitor and as locally common in padis but rarely seen. We saw about twenty including, I think, juveniles. Returning along the path the Crakes were still on the move and then, on the path ahead a large Water Rail appeared. This is next to impossible, the bird being a rare vagrant to the west coast with only six sightings ever (according to book). So me and Terry are going back to the padis soon armed with video camera, bottles of water and lunch. If it is there we will find it. If it wasn't a Water Rail it will go down on my record as another dead tree episode.

We reluctantly left the padis and headed for home via Zest restaurant where the food was as good as ever.
This blog was delayed because we left shortly after for Cambodia only to return with a severe case of something or other. I am recovering, M is just starting to suffer.

Intrepid explorers go hungry

2011-05-05T14:54:00.001+01:00

Jackie and Terry (Australia) had suggested a day out, getting away from the city and looking at outlying villages etc - places we have never been to before. Terry was driving and suggested the Borneo Highlands area. J and T have never been there, me and M have been down a few times. We by-passed the busy roads out of the city and met the Highlands road at the mega-gaol next to the Police Academy. On the journey down certain cafes were noted for future reference. The Highlands road goes past Bunuk (aka Benuk), a village with a longhouse, an old village hall with skulls, a mini-museum run by an old Chinese lady and her grandson and a bamboo bridge over a river used, by various residents, for the morning ablutions. Visitors arriving at Bunuk are relieved of 6RM each, handed the key of the village hall and offered locally made rice wine, for a price. As is usual at Bunuk, it was baking hot but we did the full tour through the rather rickety longhouse complex, into the hall taking photos of skulls (having unlocked the front door I couldn't relock it so I left it open - the back door was unlocked anyway), by-passing the museum, returning half-baked to visitor reception. Me and Terry walked across the bamboo bridge and back again. After seeing a Black Eagle high above the village we declined a further offer of wine and left for what could be described as the best dead tree in Sarawak. This is found by turning right to Abang (just before the Borneo Highlands resort) and going up and down a few steep hills and crossing a wooden bridge. The tree is (sometimes) the home of nesting Black-thighed Falconets, sparrow-sized birds of prey that live by beating up and eating dragon-flies.

Having missed the Abang turning (but having seen a Crested Serpent Eagle) we drove up to the BH resort gate and asked if we could go in. For a meal and a drink we said. The security said that there was nowhere to have a meal and a drink so we couldn't go in. This seems unlikely at what is a well known and expensive hotel. It is however consistent. Some years ago me and M drove up to the gate and were refused entry. You may well think that the common factor to these two events is me and M, but we won't dwell on that.

Having "dipped" at the resort we returned to the Abang turning and turned. Up and down hills etc, only to find that the Falconets are not nesting at the moment. No sign of them. So we went up and down another hill into a village, the name of which eludes me, did a three point turn and returned via Abang to the BH road. There were mutterings about lunch. No problem, I say, we will go to the Sunshine Cafe down the road at Annah Rais. Sunshine Cafe shut. We will go to the cafe at the hot springs a couple of miles beyond Annah Rais. Hot Springs open, cafe closed. We will get something in Annah Rais, I say. The lady at AR info centre says no chance, you will find something on the way back to Kuching.

We look for eateries on the way back. M had noticed one on the way down called the Buas Cafe. I was getting a lot of stick about empty trees and closed cafes and was delegated to enter the cafe. Are you open? Yes. Do you have food? No. The next cafe, in which at least six locals were sat, also had no food, or so they said. I now suspect that they didn't understand what the word food meant.

There are cafes across the road from the Police Academy, I say. Yeah right, say they. There were of course cafes there and they knew what food was. We ordered coffees that arrived with sponge cakes. We ate the cakes and ordered varieties of noodles. M didn't like hers (because it had two prawns and various unidentified bits in) so I ate that as well.

After eating we set off for MJC shopping area at Batu Kawa. There is a market on Thursday selling fish, fruit, veggies etc. It was baking hot in Batu Kawa. The next move was uncertain. Should we go home? Should we go somewhere to eat? Someone suggested the Golf Club. I said it's open till 7.30 on Thursday. Doubts were expressed as the Annah Rais debacle was remembered. We decided to go straight to the Golf Club to avoid the temptations of an early bath at home. The cafe was indeed open.

Since we arrived back, Terry has rung to say that they want to do it again next week but someone else will be in charge of the catering. Suits me.

The Australian Problem

2011-05-04T05:41:00.003+01:00

Festival gets lessons from man of letters | The Australian

Click on the above.

The Hicks referred to was an Islamist groupie.

I think Imre must be taking the mickey.

Waiting and watching

2011-05-03T19:24:00.001+01:00

It's 01:50 on Wednesday 4 May 2011.

Not tired and too hot to sleep.

Waiting for start of Barcelona v Real Madrid at 02:45

Watching Bald Eagles streaming from Decorah, Iowa. Adult and 3 young on nest at moment.

Twelve hours difference means that I'm half a world away. The video, provided by Ustream, is perfect.

See it at http://www.ustream.tv/decoraheagles

The staff here have been cleaning the pool today. The water looked filthy so I only went in twice. Also had a walk to Golf Club for lunch. Planning another expedition with Terry and Daf but much less adventurous than the last. This time it is a quick (45 minute) stroll through the forest up the Santubong Summit trail to a point known as F7. The trail after F7 is too difficult and is, I'm told, akin to rock-climbing. So F7 it is, followed by Buntal seafood and beer. As usual in the forest I will hear a few birds but will see only one or two. A German resident of of the apartments saw a Hornbill on the Summit trail and said it was as big as a human being. This sounds unlikely but the Rhinocerous Hornbill is approx 4 feet, nose to tail and is a distinct possibility on Santubong. The Helmeted Hornbill (with tail extension) is approx 5 feet but is an unlikely bird hereabouts.

There is a gym at the apartment complex that I have used on a not too regular basis. I should do more but I think a programme of walking up-hill through forests is a better idea, particularly since the trips end with noodles etc.

The point F7 on the Summit trail is a junction of two trails, the second starting at F1, the Jungle cafe where one can dine with the mosquitos on the edge of the forest, and progressing through, in theory, F2, F3 etc. The truth is that if you leave F1 heading for F7, or vice versa, the trail disappears before you reach the next F because the trees marked with red paint that mark the trail have long ago fallen over and rotted down. Once you set off it is guesswork. If Lord Lucan isn't living on the F1/F7 trail, he should be. The Summit trail, however, is walked every day.

Mayo info needed

2011-05-01T14:32:00.000+01:00

In a recent post I mentioned a dodgy jar of mayo. This had been refrigerated after being opened but when I tried to mix with ketchup etc for a salad dressing, it went lumpy. All previous mayo that I have encountered has been perfectly unlumpy. Faced by this abomination, I lobbed the jar in the bin. Was I right to do so? Do you really care?

Lazy days, in pain

2011-05-01T13:44:00.001+01:00

The two days following the Matang expedition have been days of pain. Sitting down or lying down are pain-free. Standing up, walking and climbing steps are not. Terry and Daf are suffering in the same way. It is undoubtedly linked to age. Terry is, of course, the oldest (65 in June). Just thought I would mention that, Terry. If there are advantages of age, they are far outweighed by the deterioration of mind and body. One hundred pounds a week (approx) in pension does not compensate someone who loses their dentures or forgets to wear trousers.

The upside of the days of pain is that they have been days of idling about. Swimming, birdwatching from the swimming pool, sitting around watching Hawaii Fifty and other regurgitated classics.

I have posted a further video of one of the creepie-crawlies shown in the previous blog. The video is notable for the comments made therein by Daf. A photo shows Terry and Daf trying to leave me behind.

Back to lazy days. There was very little excitement at the pool today when a ~~Rhinocerous was found climbing up the leg of a lounger~~ Rhinocerous Beetle was found under a sunbed. The beetle is described, at a website called Ask the Exterminator, as nearly harmless to humans. The same site gives a link to a business that supplies the beetle as a pet. There are various varieties (ha ha) of Rhinocerous Beetle and it is possible that the pool beetle was of the species enema pan. Doubters can refer to a YouTube video posted by one BrunolRamos who noted Um amigo me trouxe esse besouro rinoceronte lá de uma fazenda em Minas.

A photo of our beetle herewith. Copies are available for a small fee if you are too dumb to steal one.

Almost a week is a long time without the internet

2011-04-30T08:15:00.001+01:00

We lost contact with the internet one day last week. We contacted the broadband provider, TM, and after prolonged discussions by telephone and tests carried out with advice from their engineers, we still had no internet. We were told that we would be contacted within 24 hours. In fact, the following day TM engineers turned up at the apartment when we were 30 miles away. Come back later, we said. The engineers conducted extensive tests on the line and after 2 hours or more demonstrated that the internet was indeed available through their line and concluded that we had a duff wifi modem. We spoke to our landlord's agent, who, as ever, told us to buy what we wanted and recover it from the next rent payment. Off we pop to Saberkas, a shopping centre filled with mobile phone and computer stores. We buy a new modem and over 3 days we and other residents try, with no success, to contact the pusher that supplies what has become a drug, internet access. Admitting failure we ring the agent, tell her the story and tell her to sort it out. She says that she will send a technician and later confirms that he will fly in from Miri (long way off) and arrive at our apartment between 7 and 8 pm. This is the day of the Royal .........................(Sorry about the break in transmission, I have just been bitten by something and had to go for medical help (Sudocrem, also effective for nappy rash, bed sores, chilblains etc)................ Wedding.

The day of the Royal Wedding began with an urgent call to the agent, not about internet matters, but because the Astro satellite smartcard wasn't working. This was resolved within 10 minutes, no flying technician needed. The plan for the day was a ~~coven~~ gathering of residents (female), either in our apartment or at T & J O'Ns apartment (much bigger screen) to watch wedding referred to above.

Me, Terry and Daf had another plan. At 11.00am we set off for Matang, a forested hill rising to around 3000 feet, home of Kubah National Park, Matang Family Park and Matang Wildlife Park, where I got bled by leeches some time ago. The hill is classed as a mountain and is topped by a communications tower managed by TM, the dodgy broadband people. At about 2600 feet there is an observation point open to anyone stupid enough to walk up to it (me, Terry and Daf). Access is by a concrete road that climbs through the Kubah Park section. We parked up, paid our dues and set off up the road. I have been up the road many times when birdwatching but have never been beyond 950 feet. I doubt that I shall go above that height again unless by taxi. The climb could be fairly described as steep with two short level bits at 950 and 2000 feet. (Incidentally, at around 2000 feet there is a change in the vegetation, with the appearance of palm-type trees, pine trees and generally smaller trees of various kinds. It is like being back at sea level). The road meanders and around every bend is an incline steeper than the last. We walked slowly, rested regularly and took about 4 hours to reach 2600 feet. I heard lots of birds but saw few (Racket-tailed Drongo and Raffles Malkoha were notable). Trudging along, head down is not a good birdwatching technique. It does however open up the world of creepie-crawlies (see videos). The views from he observation point are varied. One can see Kuching city, the wetlands, Santubong Suites where we live and many miles of forest across to Indonesia. The climb had been hard on heart and lungs but the descent of 1 hour 30 minutes non-stop was crippling. Aching thighs and calf muscles, sore kneecaps and sore feet.

On arriving back at the car, Terry and Daf produced towels and clean shirts. My shirt was a sodden rag and of course I had not thought to bring a change. I find that whenever I go out, usually birdwatching, I always remember the binoculars. Anything else is problematical.

Back to the internet and the Wedding. In mid-afternoon at around 1800 feet I get a call from M. The agent has just rung to say the the flying technician will arrive after 7.00 pm (see above). She cannot of course be disturbed whilst viewing and opining on this memorable event. "I don't like that hat! Doesn't her sister look beautiful? Blair and Brown didn't get invited (chuckle, chuckle)". She wants to know if I will be back to deal with him. We are still climbing, I say, I don't know when we'll be back. I didn't say that I was expecting a second plan to develop, involving seafood and TsingTao beer.

We left Kubah around 5.30pm, picked up some much needed drinks at the Red Bridge Chinese supermarket (big shed, sells everything including cable ties), drove to Buntal and entered Lim Hock Ann seafood restaurant. We were greeted by the manager who looked at my unbuttoned wet rag shirt and complimented me on my beer gut. I think it was a compliment but Terry said you can't always tell with the Chinese. We ordered beer, noodles, veggies, sweet and sour things, chickeny things (this is in a seafood restaurant). We discussed cable ties and their place in modern cinema. Daf suggested that fluffy handcuffs were a more humane option. The conversation largely remained at this level with a short detour into the benefits of a constitutional monarchy. This leads us back to the Wedding. On returning to the apartments, Terry joined me for a couple more drinks until the wedding party broke up. I watched the Wedding and its associated proceedings a few times on Sky TV, went to bed, arose about 11.30am, breakfasted on a deficient Waldorf salad (the Mayo bought a few days ago had gone off, so no salad dressing). I shall speak more of the Mayo in a future post. I have now eaten ice cream, blogged and I am going for a swim.

The videos are of a creepie-crawlie, a very creepie-crawlie and a colour-coordinated Daf up a hill.

Idea from Russia

2011-04-22T15:26:00.001+01:00

You will see at the top of this blog a sequence of news items from newspapers and agencies around the World. I have just noticed that an item from Pravda deals with a topic that is dear to my heart. It thought that it was going to suggest that the Ukrainian economy would benefit from a reduction in excise duty, specifically on petrol. Instead a Ukrainian politician fears that no excise duty means no roads, as if any specific tax was linked to a specific cost. Money is a fungible asset and once a government has got your money it will do with it what it wants.

I think that the UK economy would benefit greatly from the complete removal of excise duty. This would reduce very significantly the cost of all petrol/diesel etc reducing the costs of all industrial and commercial concerns and making the hearts of all motorists sing (apart from those who predict that by 1990 all polar bears will be dead). In addition all alcoholic drinks will reduce in price, as will tobacco products. Those who choose to drink and smoke will no longer be victims of lazy governments (that is every government since the end of WWII). For the Chancellor of the Exchequer, shit for brains will no longer be an option. He, she or it will have to think about spending reduction rather than screwing the upper, middle and lower classes.

Could this happen?

The Conservatives are lumbered with the Lib Dems and need to get rid. The Chancellor should announce that he proposes an emergency budget, the central feature of which would be abolition of excise duty. The LDs would withdraw support, a General Election would be called, Chairman Mao would commit Labour to doubling all taxes and after the results of the election are declared Clegg could go back to his whippets and the Chairman could swim down the Yangtse.

I realise that I have now committed all drinkers and smokers to a life of misery and an early death. Sorry chaps.

Chinese Temple up a hill

2011-04-22T14:36:00.002+01:00

Out Bako way there is a fishing village at the foot of a hill. The village is called (see later) and it is a busy place. It has a largely Muslim population but it is overlooked by a very large Chinese Temple. Down on the quayside there are a few eateries dominated by two very large Chinese Restaurants (sea food a speciality). If you drive into the village along increasingly narrow roads and turn left at the T junction you have gone the wrong way. Turn right at the T junction, dummy, and crawl slowly towards the large fish processing plant. On reaching the plant (on the right) you are also arriving at the bottom of the steps of the Temple (on the left). As you approach a likely-looking lad will indicate a parking spot at the roadside. You are expected to imitate the legendary Reginald Molehusband and finally parallel park, after much signalling by the helpful, aforesaid lad. On exiting the car the lad suggests a parking fee of 4RM would be appropriate and, of course, one agrees. It's only money (about which I no longer speak). I remember, however, that last time we visited said village we parked without any help and only had to pay 2RM to a member of the species homo sapiens who was of indeterminate gender. He (or she) took our money, walked across the road to a small shop, bought some fags and buggered off.

We walked up 70+ steps to the Temple where lots of Chinese, this being a public holiday, were praying, ringing bells, burning messages to the ancestors, lighting candles and joss sticks, kneeling, bowing and generally asking the Gods to bless them with good fortune (this being lottery night). I, myself, was blessed even before reaching the business end of the temple. Half way up the steps there is a place for old persons to rest and as I gasped for breath a Tri-Coloured Munia, carrying a length of dead grass, landed on the hedge in front of me. In the hedge was a ball of dead grass, my first ever TC Munia nest.

Apart from that we walked round the Temple, choked on the smoke from multiple sources, bought some candles, headed down to the quayside.

The Chinese Restaurant on the left beckoned, we had coffee and tea. Chinese, used to selling Barracudas etc, didn't seem impressed. Suitably refreshed we walked out onto pier to look at ships and fishing boats. The tide was going out and on the mud were loadsacrabs and mud skippers. There were blue crabs and the mud skippers have blue spots. I don't think his is necessarily significant.

Came back to get changed and went to Golf Club for a swim and then a meal.

Here are some photos taken at Muara Tebas (the village referred to above).

A view from the Temple, some dead fish, assorted boats and a view of the Temple.

Updates

2011-04-19T12:41:00.000+01:00

CAR UPDATE: Problem with cut-out solved - no trouble for 3 weeks or more - serviced yesterday for £13.

BIRD UPDATE: Greater Coucal drying out after rain shower - see photo

MONKEY UPDATE: Gang of monkeys hanging round this a.m. - see photo.

CLOUD UPDATE: No clouds on horizon at Sunset today - this is very unusual - see sequence of photos.

IDLING ABOUT UPDATE: Went to Golf Club again today to swim/sit about/eat. Order was Omelette and Fries, Roti Canai, Tuna sandwich, Sprite, hot tea, two coffees, two coffees - cost about £7.50.

I think I probably labour the point about the prices out here (so I shall stop) but it is one of the reasons we are here. Others include the weather, the birdies, the birdies and the birdies.....

Vote for me, or else

2011-04-17T12:41:00.002+01:00

Yesterday was election day in Sarawak and Barisan National, the ruling party (or coalition) was returned to office. The Chief Minister remains in office for a 31st year, or thereabouts. His annual salary is said to be approx £5,000 and he is reputed to be the second richest man in Asia. He must have the Midas touch. A few days before the election thousands of flags appeared in support of the various parties or groups and it looked obvious that all the money was going into BN. As of lunchtime today, very few flags were in evidence. It is as though there never was an election and for most Sarawakians there might as well not have been. The politcal scene is hellish complicated with numerous parties, coalitions, attempted coalitions and failed coalitions. Upsetting the status quo, through the ballot box, looks impossible.

On our first visit to Sarawak I met a local solicitor who was from one (or more) of the indigenous peoples. The people of Sarawak are a mix of Malays, Chinese and indigenous tribes with a very few others thrown in. Sarawak joined Malaysia more than 50 years ago. The solicitor told me that if the Malays became too uppity Sarawak would 'join out'. The Malays however dominate the politics, the civil service, the armed forces and the police. Moreover, there are residential areas of Kuching that are exclusively Malay presumably to keep up property values. It would, I think, be difficult for Sarawak to join out. It is surely impossible to vote the Malays out. It is said that all government employees (Malays) must vote BN on pain of dismissal, the ruling group paying no heed to confidentiality.

On another sinister note, a dodgy looking gecko with beady eyes was, a few minutes ago, trying to sneak into the apartment. The sliding doors to the balcony were open, the gecko stood on the balcony looking in. I approached said gecko and it fled to balcony below. Seconds later it peeped over the balcony (very beady eyes). I picked up a brush (essential tool in the battle against geckos) and gecko retreated, only to reappear on wall below balcony. I looked at it, it was dead still. I looked away and it advanced two feet. I looked away again, it advanced.. Eventually it reached the balcony above but I am sure that it now waits behind one of the prints on the wall ready to gorge itself on whatever crumbs we leave around.

We have had no trouble with ants this trip although a few hang around a plant on the balcony. Last trip they were all over the place until Rentokil had a go. Yesterday, however, M ate a yoghurt and put the empty carton on a coffee table whilst she watched the TV. Some time later I picked up the carton and it was teeming with tiny ants that were presumably picking up bits of yoghurt and taking it to their colony. Healthy eaters.

Out and about doin' nowt special

2011-04-15T16:14:00.001+01:00

Over the last few days we have been living here rather than visiting here. We have:

1. walked round a lake at the National Library

2. gone to swim at Damai Beach pool, our own pool being off-limits with threats of amoebic meningitis, the pox, etc if one ventures in. The pool's filtration system packed in and the water has looked greenish for a while. Two days ago the system was partially repaired and is running slowly. It will be restored to its former glory next week, we are assured. (Actually, when the system started crawling along I went for a dip but M found out and a life support machine is on stand-by).

3. idled about

4. walked along tracks at the forest edge (me, not M)

5. ruined my second-best shirt walking along tracks etc

6: visited IMMIGRATION, a big building South of the city centre. We need an extension to our passport stamp and can get a 30 day extension for 50 RM (£10). Having, with the help of Sheryl the intrepid, (temporarily) one-legged Aussie, found the IMMIGRATION office, we were told that we needed to come back not more than 3 days before the expiry date of our current stamp to ask for an extension. Presumably, should our request be refused, we will have to quickly flee (split infinitive) across the Indonesian border and come back in with a new 90 day stamp

7. dined at ZEST, a rather good cafe behind HSBC. I asked for my usual Waldorf Salad and waited for lettuce, apple, cashew nuts and a rather tasty dressing. The waiter returned to tell me, I think, that they had no cashews and would something similar suffice. I said yes. The salad arrived and there was lettuce, cauliflower, mini corn cobs, dressing - a Waldorf Salad is not the same without the apples.... and the cashews.

8. visited a garden centre that advertised strawberry plants, vanilla plants, rose bushes. We turned into the cul de sac and found that the garden centre was in fact a house with a garden and a rather nice dog that took a dislike to me immediately (it was a rescue dog and obviously I reminded it of something evil from the past). The owner of said house emerged and within a few minutes he asked if we were from the North of England. Bolton, we said, Bury, he said but some of the family are in Horwich. Ex RAF, been here 6 years, married to local (Iban) girl, some land farmed down near Sri Aman, wife related to various dignitaries, hated the Government, mine of information on plant preservation, knows a good fishing spot, offered to take me, called Simon, gave us his card, sold us a plant (discount applied), said he had owls nearby, made bird-boxes, also had cobras nearby, said neighbour's house for sale would never sell, feng shui all wrong, lousy house anyway, should be pulled down. It is not unusual to run in to people from the North West when we are out and about. A few years ago we went to a Farmers' Market on a Sunday morning at the Dutch Reformed Church in Lusaka, Zambia and met a farmer who made cheese. He was from Preston.

9. I think I am losing the plot so I shall end with a short list of birds that I have seen, for the first time this trip, in April:

Spectacled Spiderhunter

Crested Fireback

Dollarbird

Blue Rock-thrush

Green Imperial Pigeon

Barn Swallow

Common Goldenback

Wallace's Hawk-eagle

Blue-breasted Quail

The Quail are about 6 inches long and, like the Partridges back home, the wait until one nearly stands on them before they explode into a short flight to safety. There they wait, to frighten the next idiot that comes along.

Blue Rock-thrush

2011-04-09T13:55:00.001+01:00

This morning a bird was hanging round the pool. I am pretty sure it was there last night but I didn't get a good look then.

I took 23 photos through telescope and identified it as a Blue Rock-thrush. I have never seen one before although it is a common bird in many places (not in UK). It is supposed to be uncommon here but who knows?

Please note that the photo was taken from the 13 floor balcony of our apartment and I couldn't pose the bird properly or ask it to say cheese. Groovy feet.

Pool poorly

2011-04-08T09:36:00.001+01:00

The pool remains in bad health. DAF was seen today sitting in the childrens' pool. This seems to have escaped the worst of the pollution. The pool here has a rather elaborate filtration system and a pump or other part has been ordered from the mainland but will need to be fitted by experts (?) and hence the procedure will take until sometime in the future that cannot be determined. Yesterday, we went for a swim at Damai Beach Resort and met the manager who also manages the Golf Course/Country Club next door to our apartment block. M asked him about using the pool at the GCCC. He said 'sit there and I will get someone to take your photo'. Our photos are now pinned up in the guard house at the GCCC with instructions to let us in to use the pool. We have been there today. There is a small restaurant where the food and drink is reasonably priced. Also, whilst it is next door, it is about 2km walk away, being at the other side of a golf course (designed it is said by Arnold Palmer). We walked there, swam, had a drink and walked back. Very hot but good exercise. The golf course has a decent selection of birds and on the way back M found a green lizard with a crest. It was a member of the Chameleon family and called a Green Crested Lizard - bet you didn't see that coming.

This is not the lizard we saw, it is one I lifted from the RWS Photo Blog

Becca goes home, we go for dodgy breakfast

2011-04-05T12:21:00.000+01:00

Up at 5.30 and off to airport. Rebecca has 36 hour journey home via KL and HK. As I write she is in HK awaiting her flight to Paris then on to Manchester. We miss her already.

On the way back we stopped at Semariang shoplots for drinking water and decided to have a coffee at a small foodcourt. The menu said Roti Canai. M had one with dodgy looking corned beef, had one with a Kraft cheese slice. M is fine, I have 'digestive distress' as Sheldon Cooper would say.

We sat around all day, the pool being out of bounds - it may well be populated by crocodiles, the water is so muddy that one cannot be sure. A replacement part for the filtration system has been ordered. Its ETA is unknown.

Late on we went to inspect said pool. We avoided the crocs but did see a Spectacled Spiderhunter on the African Tulip Tree next to the pool. A Little Spiderhunter is also a regular visitor to this tree. Both feed, I think, on nectar from the orange flowers. It may well be that these birds are accomplished hunters but the spiders round here don't seem too worried.

My diet now is cold water and, whilst I would risk a couple of beers I think that M will take umbrage. The Chinese have a (Confucian) saying: "Starve a fever, feed a cold and give George two tins of TsingTao". I'll try it on her later.

Sunburn alert

2011-04-03T14:12:00.001+01:00

Within 24 hours of arriving in Borneo I always get a 'very red face' much to the amusement of the local Malay population to whom tact is a mysterious Western phenomenon. I have now had the said face for more than 2 months and I shall retain it for 10 months more. My arms and various other parts are a reasonably attractive brown colour. I mention this because we have a visitor, our daughter Rebecca, who has previously perfected the art of staying white. After living here for a year in 2002/3 she returned home whiter than when she arrived. However, having been here for four days she has now started turning red. Red hands, arms, legs and all because of swimming. She is, at this moment, hunting all over the apartment for soothing lotions etc.

I suppose that on her return to the UK she will immediately turn back to total whiteness, or at least cover up the red with parkas, overcoats, macintoshes etc.

CAR UPDATE: Almost one week since the car was cured. We live in hope.

Surprise plant and expected guest

2011-03-29T06:42:00.005+01:00

Went for walk up side of Mount Santubong (on a road laid out some years ago for a housing development). Saw a few birds but nothing unusual until I happened upon a plant growing just off the sidewalk. It is a small pitcher plant - see photograph. I didn't know they were found on Santubong. Pitcher plants, as you will know, grow containers in which they catch, drown and digest insects. There are many different species and sizes. Small frogs live in some pitchers and they presumably eat some of the drowning insects. In others, tiny bats roost. (This is meant as a serious blog). I shall try to identify the plant and report back.

In the meantime, me and M are decamping from the main bedroom (overlooking the sea) to occupy a minor bedroom overlooking a wasp's nest and a dead spider. We are expecting Rebecca to arrive tomorrow from Hong Kong. She has been at the Hong Kong Sevens as part of the Kukri marketing team and last night they went into China. They will visit the factory that makes all the Rugby shirts etc today and then return to HK to fly out, Rebecca to KL and the rest to UK. Tomorrow Rebecca flies from KL to Kuching to stay for a week or so in our bedroom, to eat Nasi Goreng and to complain about the heat.

PITCHER PLANT UPDATE: I think I can identify the species, if I buy a book for £64.00. Ignorance is bliss.

HONG KONG UPDATE: England lost in Sevens Final to All Blacks. Will the Kiwis win the World Cup?

Bees back, car cured (we hope), nice evening for a swim

2011-03-28T14:27:00.000+01:00

Yesterday the bees, cleared on Friday, returned to their favoured spot under the penthouse balcony. We have just been warned to keep windows closed etc as a second attempt is made to relocate them. I have bored everyone here with my explanation of the whys and wherefores of swarming bees. I don't remember blogging about it so I shall now bore you.

Bees periodically leave their hive en masse presumably having outgrown it or perhaps for some outside factor. The Queen Bee leads the swarm away and they land somewhere and take up temporary residence, the Queen being buried somewhere under the swarm. The bees nominate a number of bee-scouts (approx 26) to go and look for a suitable place to establish a hive. If a scout finds what he (or she?) considers a suitable place then he consults with the other scouts and asks for their opinion. If they don't like it, the search continues until there is unanimity for a proposed location. The unanimous bees and the rest of the swarm move in (property values drop).

If anyone knows anything different please let me know but don't bring sex into it.

Forget bees, what about he car(?), I hear you ask. The car has been misbehaving for a few days and a vain attempt at a cure was made on Friday. We took the car back to the mechanic today and left it with him to be diagnosed and cured. We then walked into Kuching centre, looked in shops, sat by the River, looked in more shops, ate noodles. The weather was only medium-hot but this went on for hours and a mid-afternoon call to the mechanic was inconclusive. Eventually we got a taxi to the mechanic and sat in the air-conditioned office until the mechanic appeared and pronounced the car fit and well. He said that he had cleaned the fuel pipe, cleaned the carburettor, adjusted the idling speed. I asked how much they wanted for their services and caused great consternation. Brendon's name was mentioned (the discussion was in Chinese), someone phoned Brendon, the director was mentioned, someone phoned the director and as a receptionist spoke to the director on his mobile, the director walked through the door (much Chinese giggling). The director, having been briefed about Brendon's involvement, suggested 54RM (£11) as a suitable fee.

Brendon, you may recall, helped us to find a car and has assumed the position of guardian angel. He must have some arrangement with all local Chinese motor traders and has already organised a free replacement radio, free battery check and a very cheap repair (we hope).

We sped homewards blowing away BMWs, Lexuses, 1950s Toyota Cressidas, plonkers on motorbikes and generally showing the Sarawakians what is what. The car drove better than ever before and we keep our fingers crossed.

On arrival back at the apartment, I dumped all bags and rushed to the pool. M said she was too tired and would unpack and have a lie down. She arrived at the pool 2 minutes after me, leaving pork sausages and salami slices to their own devices. Life is a gas.