Organic Cotton Plus - News

Slow Stitching / Mindful Practices

2025-01-28T14:36:21-05:00

Definition of Slow Stitching: Mindful needlework that focuses on the process, bringing a sense of satisfaction to life and the finished product.

Hand stitching and visible mending, knitting and and crochet, embroidery and embellishment, or using a sewing machine to create a piece of clothing, pillow or quilt. What do all of these have in common? They invite us to slow down a bit, concentrate on a project, and take pleasure in the process.

Whatever your skill level and interests, you can relax and enjoy expressing your creativity. You can feel the satisfaction of working on a project a little at a time and completing it. Then you can enjoy using your projects or give them as gifts.

“You can’t use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have.” Maya Angelou

5 Ways to Get Ready for Fall

2023-08-22T16:32:45-04:00

1. Spruce up those cozy fall clothes - Get out your fall clothes and see if any of them need repair. This is a great time to replace buttons, mend, and even replace collars and cuffs - check out our new convenient baby rib and heavyweight rib 6" strips for cuff and collar repair!

2. Renew old clothes with dye - Use Fiber Reactive or Natural Vegetable dyes to give new life to lightly stained and tired clothing, and make them feel fresh and new again!

3. Add spark with embroidery and visible mending - visible mending is great to prolong the usefulness of clothing while adding custom touches for a one of a kind garment you will look forward to wearing!

4. Add a few new layers and accessories - Thermal knits, Fleece, and Flannel can all be made into simple and stylish layers to freshen up your existing wardrobe. Long sleeved t-shirts and leggings are versatile and help to hold the heat in on those chilly days.

5. Make a cozy quilt - Cut around worn spots in old clothing and encorporate the rest into a warm and cozy quilt. Sandwich organic cotton or wool batting between the layers to make a lightweight cotton quilt layer or a heavier wool quilt. You can even fold the quilt in half and stitch up the side for a special sleeping bag for kids!

What is the Difference Between Square and Linear Yard?

2023-06-29T09:39:28-04:00

This has been a central question since the beginning of time... or at least since the industrial revolution and the inception of automated knitting and weaving.

It's actually an important concept since it is the only way to compare the weight of two different fabric styles (or "qualities", as referenced in the textile industry). One quality can be wider than another and although heavier in actual weight (per linear yard) it could be lighter in square weight, thus a lighter piece of goods.

A square weight is calculated by taking a yardstick and weighing a 36"x36" piece. A linear weight is achieved by measuring a 36" length of the cloth (which is typically wider than 36"), cutting it selvedge to selvedge, and weighing that cut piece. Thus the weight of a linear yard is most likely heavier than the square weight. The distinction should always be made prior to purchase, so the correct weight for a particular project is bought.

Typically, at the mill, the square weight is determined by "punch weight". This is accomplished by having a cutting tool similar to a die cutter that literally punches out small consistently sized pieces of fabric samples. They are then weighed, and through a calculation, square weight per yard is determined.

Sometimes weight is listed in grams per meter. That is, of course, utilizing the metric system, which is typical of imported goods. Made in USA goods generally use the good old "Imperial system" rather than the metric system. Ounces and pounds are called "avoirdupois" units of measure (a great word for crossword puzzle and scrabble buffs out there).

Since knits are harder to finish with spot on presumptive precision than wovens, there is usually a little "wiggle room" for anticipated ozs/yard sq. weight. If goods, for instance, are listed as 5 ozs/yd square, they can typically run .25 or even .5 ozs/square yard lighter or heavier. It's just endemic to the nature of finishing goods that stretch under varying factors and conditions. Those variables can be a discussion for another day!

Happy making!

Daniel

Thank you to Daniel for his clear explanation of the difference between the weight/square yard and the weight/linear yard! We include both weight/square yard and weight/linear yard (and gsm!) for our knits, and we include the weight/square yard and gsm for our woven fabrics.

The easiest way to compare the weights of two fabrics is to use the weight/square yard or gsm. If you would like to calculate weight/square yard from a fabric that is listed in weight/linear yard, you can use the following formula:

oz/sq yd = oz/linear yard x (36/width of fabric in inches)

Garden Inspirations

2023-03-28T16:09:18-04:00

Spring holds the promise of warm days, and the garden is calling! Here is a list of 10 garden supplies and project ideas for your organic gardening adventure:

1. Garden Apron / Tool Belt Pattern - This pattern contains several styles of aprons and a tool belt to help protect clothing and keep tools handy.

2. Travel Pillow Kit - This kit contains the instructions and materials for a small pillow that can be used as a kneeling pad.

3. Jute Burlap and Cheesecloth - Burlap and cheesecloth can be used to cover and protect plants from the sun, wind, and insects.

4. Organic Cotton Baker's Twine and undyed Hemp Twine - Twine works well for tying up tomatoes and other climbing plants

5. Canvas Bag Kit - Add pockets to the outside of the canvas bag kit to create a garden tote to keep tools close by as you garden.

6. Felt by the Yard - Wool felt can be used to make felt pots for container gardening

7. Hemp Rope and Webbing - Durable hemp rope can be used to make everything from a plant hanger to a trellis fence. Hemp webbing can be used for repairing lawn furniture, handles on a tote, or a sturdy edging for a tarp.

8. Buckwheat Hulls, Raw Cotton, Wool Fiber, and Wool Nepps - Natural fibers are excellent for mulching and water retention, and eventually decompose and enrich soil.

9. Otter Wax - Otter wax can be used to condition and waterproof fabrics.

10. Scissors - Keep a pair of these great scissors in your gardening apron to cut lengths of twine, and for trimming and harvesting garden plants.

What is Otter Wax & How Is It Used?

2023-02-02T15:28:34-05:00

Otter Wax fabric wax is a blend of beeswax and other natural waxes and oils that can be used to waterproof organic cotton, linen, and hemp fabrics. Waterproofing with this natural wax blend provides a functional alternative to nylon for creating your own amazing waterproof outerwear.

To apply, simply rub the bar of Otter Wax onto the fabric:

Then use the special smoothing tool to work it into the fabric:

Once the fabric is thoroughly coated with the Otter Wax, use the smoothing tool to remove the excess:

Use the Otter Wax on Organic Cotton Duck for a heavy duty outer layer, or try applying it to Organic Cotton Twill for a medium weight layer. Try it on a lightweight fabric, such as Organic Cotton Sateen or Percale for an alternative to nylon for a lightweight outer layer.

14 Terrific Uses for Organic Beeswax

2023-01-25T16:16:53-05:00

We love to find eco-friendly materials to use in our everyday tasks. Organic Beeswax pellets are natural and non-toxic, and can be used in so many ways in your sewing room and beyond! Read on to discover lots of ways you can put organic beeswax to work in your life.

1. Food Wraps - Coat lightweight fabrics (such as muslin or linen) with melted beeswax to make a natural substitute for plastic wrap in the kitchen and lunchbox. Cover bowls, wrap sandwiches, keep cut vegetables fresh, and lots more - the possibilities are endless!

2. Thread Conditioner - Pull your thread through a block of beeswax to strengthen it and prevent tangles when hand sewing or doing beadwork.

3. Resist for painting or dyeing fabric - Apply melted beeswax to your fabric to create a dye resist when painting or dyeing. Use a brush or tjanting (batik tool) to apply to your artwork, or use with stamps to create an overall pattern design.

4. Candles - Organic beeswax candles are free from chemicals and fragrances that can cause health issues. Beeswax candles burn longer and drip less than other candles. Use our Hemp Wick to make dipped and poured candles.

5. Water Resistance - Avoid petroleum based waterproofing agents by using organic beeswax. Just melt the beeswax and apply to fabrics to make them water resistant - great for packs and outerwear!

More ways to add organic beeswax to your everyday routines:

6. Make natural cosmetics, chapstick, hair products, and salves
7. Use as furniture polish
8. Unstick zippers by running beeswax along the teeth
9. Use as a lubricant for wood (such as sticky drawers)
10. Create your own homemade art supplies - add soap shavings and food colors for diy crayons
11. Waterproof your shoes
12. Add a bit to mineral oil to condition your chopping block
13. Apply to tools to prevent rusting
14. Add a small amount to homemade soap to make it last longer

Organic yellow beeswax pellets melt quickly and are easy to use!

Stitching for a Sustainable Kitchen

2022-10-19T14:33:04-04:00

Focus on organic for the home is expanding from the food we eat to the materials we wear and use around our homes. One great place to start using organic textiles is in the kitchen.

Dish Towels

Fabrics that work well for dish towels are Natural Linen, Hemp Linen, and GOTS Certified Organic Cotton Muslin. Simply cut fabric to size and hem.

Dishcloths & Paperless Towels

Sponges and paper towels can get a lot of use in the kitchen! Save money and natural resources by replacing these items with cloth dishcloths and paperless towels. Easy to make, these are machine washable and can be reused for a long time.

A yard of fabric will make quite a few dishcloths or paperless towels, or use fabric left over from other projects. Knits, such as French Terry and Interlock, make hefty cloths and don’t need any finishing along the edges. Woven fabrics, such as flannel, double gauze, and terry cloth are also good, but the edges will need to be finished with a hem or a overlocked edge to prevent raveling.

Check out our Paperless Towels kit here.

Bags

From shopping to storing produce, replacing plastic with reusable cloth bags helps to keep those bags out of the landfill.

Reusable cloth shopping bags should be made of one or two layers of sturdy cloth, such as Twill or Duck, with strong doubled self-fabric or webbing handles. Pockets can be added inside or out.

Cloth produce bags can be used and reused many times to bring home your produce and store it. Use Voile or Double Gauze for a lightweight bag, and for a more hefty bag, use Organic Cotton Muslin. A Flat Braid or Twill Tape drawstring can be added to close the top.

Check out our reusable bag patterns and kits here.

Coffee Filters and Tea Bags

Did you know that many coffee filters and tea bags are bleached? Avoid the chemicals by making your own from undyed organic cotton fabric. For coffee filters, try Organic Cotton Muslin, and for reusable tea bags, Double Gauze and Voile are good choices.

Pastry Cloths/Couches

Linen and Organic Cotton/Hemp Blend Linen are great for creating cloths used in baking. If you like to make pies, pastries, or cookies, a pastry cloth works well to keep the dough from sticking to the counter and rolling pin. And bread bakers will love a Linen couche for proofing bread dough.

NOTE: Prewashing materials before using them for food is recommended.

7 Steps for Keeping Garments and Household Textiles Out of the Landfill

2022-10-17T10:47:44-04:00

Sustainability in sewing does not end when the garment or other project is completed. With proper care a textile can last many years. But for every well used textile there comes a time when there is a hole or a stain - what then? Keep reading for some ideas on keeping those items functional and out of the landfill.

Care

As mentioned in our previous blog A Guide to Washing Natural Fibers, the method used to wash and dry natural fiber projects can affect how long they last. The life of a textile can be prolonged by washing items in cold water only when necessary, and hanging them to dry.

Invisible Mending and Darning

A tear or a hole can often be mended using a matching thread or patch. This mend will blend right in, especially from a distance.

Visible Mending

Visible mending is gaining in popularity. These mends are meant to be seen, and add an artistic flair to the mended item. Techniques can include applique, embroidery, and visible darning. You might also add lace, ribbon, or rickrack to your mended area. This technique can also be used to hide stains.

Dyeing

A garment or other textile that is stained can be rescued by dying it a darker color. Fiber reactive and natural vegetable dyes work well on natural fibers. Try a new dye technique, such as tie-dye or shibori.

Fashion Update

If you have a garment that is out of fashion or no longer fits the way you like it to, then try updating it. This can be done by:

Adding or removing length
Changing the width using darts or inserts
Adding or removing design details, such as belts and collars
Adding a zipper or buttons

This can also be applied to updating home decorating textiles. Try changing the length, adding some contrast trim, or moving items to another room for a fresh new look.

Upcycling/Reuse

If none of the above will work for your textile, then give upcycling a try! Old bedding and garments can be turned into fabulous quilts, rag rugs, t-shirt yarn, clean up rags, stuffing materials for pet beds, and more.

Composting/Recycling

If the textiles are no longer suitable for reuse, natural fiber textiles can be composted and recycled. Natural fibers will break down in a compost pile or even when buried under a bush in the back yard! Alternatively , the item can be donated to a facility that will recycle it, often turning it into insulation.

A Guide to Washing Natural Fiber Fabrics

2022-09-07T11:32:36-04:00

Cotton

Fiber properties: Cotton is a soft, short staple, hollow plant fiber that produces a cool, breathable fabric. It is absorbant, and can wick moisture, making it a good choice in hot weather.

Care Instructions: Cotton should be washed in cool to warm water, and can be dried in a dryer. It can also be pressed with an iron on the cotton setting, with or without steam. Please note that cotton can tolerate hot temperatures if needed, but using hot water can cause it to shrink, especially the first time it is washed.

Wool

Fiber properties: Wool is an animal fiber from sheep that has insulating properties and naturally repels water, making it feel warm even when wet. Wool fibers have scales that can become interlocked permanently with heat, moisture, and soap - this is called felting. Felting wool can produce great results for a firm and sturdy fabric; but unless you intend to felt your wool, care must be taken when washing it.

Care Instructions: Wool is not heat tolerant. To wash wool fabrics by machine, use cold water and the gentlest cycle and detergent. Wool can also be washed gently by hand, using cold or lukewarm water. When washing by hand, squeeze out the excess water (do not wring). Hang or lay flat to dry. Pressing wool is not recommended. If pressing is necessary, use the wool setting and steam. Wool garments should be pressed inside out, using a press cloth.

Hemp/Linen

Fiber properties: Hemp fabric is a strong, durable fabric made from the long fibers from the stems of the hemp plant. It is absorbant, mildew resistant, and gets softer with use. Linen is produced from the long fibers of the flax plant stem and has similar properties to hemp.

Care Instructions: Hemp and linen should be washed in cool or warm water, using a gentle detergent. These fabrics can be air dried or dried in a dryer, but when a dryer is used the fabrics should be removed before completely dry, and hung or laid flat to finish drying. If hemp or linen require pressing, it is best to leave the fabric damp and use a press cloth and the linen setting on your iron.

Hemp/Cotton Blends

Fiber properties: Blending hemp and cotton results in a fabric that combines the best properties of both fibers. Hemp and cotton blends are more durable than 100% cotton, and adding cotton helps to soften the hemp fabric.

Care Instructions: Hemp Cotton blends can be washed and dried the same way as 100% Hemp fabrics.

Silk and Hemp/Silk Blends

Fiber properties: Silk fabric is made from the cocoons of silk worms, producing a luxurious and drapey fabric. Peace silk is made using cocoons from which the silk moths have emerged, so it is spun rather than reeled. Hemp/silk blends combine the lustrous qualities of silk with the durability of hemp, producing beautiful and useful fabric.

Care Instructions: Silk and hemp/silk blends should be handwashed in cool water with a few drops of gentle detergent. The fabric should be swished gently and the water gently squeezed out - avoid rubbing or wringing. Repeat with clear water to rinse. Hang or lay flat to dry. If your silk fabric requires pressing, use the lowest heat setting and a press cloth. Press each section, then lift the iron and press the next section.

General Fabric Care Tips

Testing: When in doubt, wash a test swatch to be sure you will be getting the results you want.

Prewashing: Check out our blog post on prewashing your fabrics.

Stains: Avoid the use of bleach or enzyme-based stain removers - these can weaken the fibers of your fabric and shorten its life.

Durability: Washing and drying contribute to wearing out fabrics. The life of textiles can be extended by only washing when needed, and using the coolest temperatures and gentlest cycles necessary when washing. Avoid using a dryer if possible because dryers also wear out textiles: fibers from textiles end up in the lint trap!

Preservation: Check out our blog post 7 Steps for Keeping Garments and Household Textiles Out of the Landfill to find out how to extend the life of your natural fiber clothing or other textiles when they start to wear out, and what to do when the are worn out.

Guide to Prewashing Your Fabrics

2022-07-15T19:30:22-04:00

Unless you won't be washing your finished project, new fabrics should be prewashed and dried in the same way the finished project will be washed and dried. We'll walk you through why and how to prewash your fabrics.

Why?

Shrinkage - Fabrics made from natural fibers can shrink up to 5-10%. When making a garment or other item that has to fit correctly, prewashing can prevent unwanted shrinkage after the item is completed. Prewashing is especially important if you are using more than one fabric in your project, as they may shrink at different rates.

Cleaning - Prewashing your fabrics will remove any remaining spinning oils and soften your fabric, and will help to remove any excess color (especially important for naturally dyed fabrics).

How?

Step 1 - Finish Edges: Woven fabrics sometimes fray when washed and dried. This can be prevented pinking or stitching the cut edges. Cut edges of knit fabrics do not have to be finished because the don't fray.

Step 2 - Wash and Dry: Unless you plan to always wash your finished item in cold water and dry on a line, fabrics should be prewashed with like colors, using the hottest water that you might use when washing the finished item, and tumbled dry. A special note for naturally dyed fabrics - make sure that the rinse water for naturally dyed fabrics is clear, and these fabrics may require more than one prewash.

Step 3 - Press: Before cutting out your project, press the fabric on the hottest setting appropriate for the fiber.

Conclusion: Taking the time to prewash and dry your fabrics will help you to achieve the best results in your sewing. For more tips on washing and drying fabrics of different fiber content, watch for our next post.

11 Ways Natural Shredded Latex is Good For You and the Planet

2022-06-22T14:00:39-04:00

Shredded Natural Talalay Latex

Our shredded natural talalay latex starts out as scraps from production of pillow forms and mattresses. We shred those scraps into a stuffing material that can be used in pillows, bean bag chairs, stuffed animals, and anything else you want to stuff!

Here are 11 ways our Shredded Natural Latex is good for you and the planet:

1. No Off Gassing - natural latex does not contain any VOC's and no harmful substances or chemicals are used in the production of the natural latex foam

2. Resistant to Dust Mites - natural latex is naturally resistant to dust mites, helping to allay allergic reactions

3. Anti-microbial - get the benefits of anti-microbial properties without the use of any harmful chemicals

4. Oeko-Tex Class 1 Certified - certifed safe for babies, and to be free of harmful substances and chemicals, by Europe's highest consumer product standard

5. Breathable - when used for pillows and mattresses, natural talalay latex is naturally breathable and keeps you cool

Shredded Latex is made from the sap of the Hevea brasiliensis tree

6. Eco-friendly Manufacturing - talalay latex foam is made using an energy efficient process that does not use solvents and minimizes water use

7. Renewable - natural talalay is made from the sap of the tropical hevea brasiliensis tree, and is a naturally renewable resource

8. Reclaimed materials - pre-consumer scraps from manufacture of bedding products are shredded, keeping valuable materials out of the landfill

9. Long Lasting - talalay foam is durable and will retain its springy nature for a long time
10. Biodegradable - because talalay latex foam is made from 100% natural latex sap without harmful chemicals it can be composted

11. Made in the USA - manufactured and shredded right here in the US, reducing greenhouse gases associated with importing bulky materials

How To Finish Hems Without Serger & Add Casing For Elastic

2021-12-29T17:22:22-05:00

Creation: How To Finish Hems Without Serger & Add Casing For Elastic

Fabrics Used: Whisper Batiste Voile and Cotton Lace

The Visionary: Denise, Whimsy Couture

Our Thoughts: Denise at Whimsy Couture made a cute cotton blouse for her daughter using our Batiste Voile and Cotton Lace. We love the detailed tutorial!

I want to show you a great way for finishing hems other than serged/rolled hemming. Some patterns require a hem finish with a serger but what if you don’ t have a serger? You can use this tutorial to finish any ‘to be serged’ hem other than with a serger.

The ‘secret’ is…..binding! I promise you, once you have tried to bind hems you will love it! But promise me, that you will take the time to read this tutorial with PLENTY of time on your hands! ‘k?

Further, this tutorial shows you a great way on how to prevent adding elastic by sewing with elastic thread, a.k.a. shirring. Some machines have trouble shirring so this tutorial will give you a tip on how to use regular band elastic.

I am using an amazing fabric called ‘Double Gauze’ in blue by Organic Cotton Plus. OMG! The quality is beyond anything you will ever know! I picked this fabric just to work on something different than organic knit fabric which I have LOVED reviewing. See in THIS post and in THIS one. I was lucky to get to pick two different things, the gauze and some beautiful lace in off-white, almost beige. I loved the combo with the denim/off-white of the double gauze and the off-white lace. the lace is grippy and simply lucious, almost looks like tea stained. It’s organic and that is worth SO much!

Some patterns have serged or roll hemmed edges on sleeves, neckline and bottom hems. But what if someone does not have a serger? This tutorial is for finishing hems without serging.

How to finish hems with binding or bias tape

How to add elastic without shirring

Another issue could arise with patterns that call for shirring (sewing with elastic thread). Not all sewing machines are able to shirr properly so I added another quick tip to add a casing for elastic.

For this project I was able to use this amazing double gauze cotton from Organic Cotton Plus.

Pick a pattern

I picked my Whimsy Couture Boho Tunic sewing pattern because I love how fast it comes together and since it has rolled hems I thought it would be great to make a tutorial for you in case you didn’t like to do rolled hems or just don’t have a serger. So basically you can use any pattern you want that requires a rolled/serged hem. And what I also didn’t do was to sew in elastic thread. I thought it would be (also) great to make a tutorial for adding regular band elastic versus shirring. Ready to learn those two modifications?

Gather your supplies

You need the following to recreate this look:

cotton fabric or double gauze (highly recommend this because it’s soft and works great if you add on-top elastic casing)
notions such as matching thread, straight pins, safety pin
a sewing machine
no serger lol
1/4″ elastic
lace with a width of at least 7/8″ (mine from Organic Cotton Plus is about 7/8″)
scissors
iron
double threaded hand sew needle
1.5 hours

Measure the to be bound edges

Measure front and back of the neckline, sleeves and bottom hem edges.

To make the binding or bias tape

Cut your binding material either from the same fabric or from a coordinating fabric. In my honest opinion it is not necessary to cut the binding on the bias although for very curvy edges on necklines etc. you would want to cut it on the bias to allow the binding to sit nicely flat. In my example I didn’t need to do that.

You want to cut as many binding strips as necessary to cover the measured edges:

Fold the long edges half way in and press. Fold strip in half lengthwise so that the folded edges meet. Great for making binding/bias tape is a bias tape tool.

This should now be your finished binding/bias tape:

To sew the binding on

Place your garment with right side down and place the unfolded binding with right sides down along the neckline corner:

Unfold the upper binding edge so that it meets the neckline edge. Pin in place. Note: the red markings show you up close where to sew in the next steps.

Once you have pinned the binding on by placing pins every inch, sew along the red lines right along the pressed crease. It is important to stay on this fold!

This is now the sewn on backside of the binding:

Trim off about half of the seam allowance:

Flip your garment over so the right side of the fabric faces up. Flip the binding over and down to cover the seams and first row of stitches. Pin in place every inch:

Sew on top of the binding very close to the folded edge that faces towards the garment. Just like you would top stitch a garment:

To sew the binding to the sleeve and bottom edges you first want to sew the garment together on the shoulders so you can attach the binding in one setting on the sleeves. The picture below shows my tunic with the binding sewn to the sleeves already.

How to add band elastic versus shirring

Measure the circumference of the neckline:

I am using the beautiful lace as a casing for my elastic. In order to make it a casing, make sure your lace is wide enough for your elastic. Pin the lace to the neckline, in my case I pinned it right under the binding. Be sure the lace is slightly longer so it can overlap on one side. Sew lace in place along the red lines. I sewed two rows 1/2 inch apart. Backstitch the beginning and end.

This is where both lace ends meet. Tuck under the end of the lace and let it reach over the beginning a bit.

This is now my finished lace casing:

Secure a small enough safety pin to one end of the band elastic (mine is 1/4″ wide) and insert it into the casing.

Sizing guide for Neckline elastic
NB 13”, 3-6m 14″, 9-12m 15”, 18m 15.5”, 2t 16”, 3t 16.5”, 4t 17”, 5t 17.5”, 6 18”, 7/8 18.5”, 9/10 19”, 11/12 19.5”

Once both ends meet, overlap 1/2″ and hand stitch both together with at least 10 stitches:

Now it’s time to close the lace casing opening with your machine:

Finish the tunic

I left one side of the tunic open so I could previously sew the binding on in one step. Now it’s great to sew the lace as a decorative touch on in one step as well:

Once lace is sewn on it’s time to finish the tunic. And voila’! The Boho Tunic made with organic cotton and lace is done!

Rainbow Sweater

2021-12-21T11:22:54-05:00

It's been a while since I've worked with Organic Cotton Plus and I'm over the moon for this sweater I've made using their Naturally Dyed Wool Yarn Worsted Weight! The last sweater I made was all a solid color, but we couldn't pass up making a rainbow one!

My last sweater was made 4.5 years ago (how can it have been that long!??) You can check out the other sweater here.

I do apologize for all the pictures! This post certainly is chalk full of them because we're all crushing on this sweater.

The yarn is Naturally Dyed Wool Yarn Worsted Weight in colors:

Bright Red, Orange, Sun Yellow, Avacado Green, Indigo Blue, and Magenta.

The yarn is dyed with eco-friendly, all-natural vegetable dyes. The Bright Red and Indigo Blue do turn your colors each color respectively. I giggled quite a bit when the kids thought I was bleeding after knitting one of the red parts. This indigo Blue was a deeper color than the one I made the last sweater in and I just love how each individual batch is it's own unique color. Also, if you have one solid one planned, make sure you order it all together because each batch may be slightly different colors.

I used circular needles size 6/26 and 9/26 which I got from Organic Cotton Plus years ago and now I can say that they have some years of use out of them and are amazing.

The sweater pattern is the Pier 60 Sweater by Melissa Schaschwary. Last time I made the Pier 9, but my kids are all adult sized now (on the exception of Jude) so I needed to make the adult version.

It's the second size up and I used 6 skeins, one in each color, and still had a bit left over of each. I'm not really sure what I can make with what's left over, but I do think it's enough for a pair of socks.

We absolutely loved the last sweater and it's still hanging in the closet. It had a bit of an unfortunate accident of being put in the dryer and becoming felted, so now is a bit to small to fit my giants of children. We're going to make sure to be extra careful on this one!

I did make a change to the neckline on this one. The pattern has quite a generous neckband and we wanted it more of a regular neck, so instead of binding off to having just 13 stitches on each side, we ended up with 22 on each side and then followed the pattern for decreasing after that. I love the higher neck, but definitely wanted that noted for anyone else making the pattern.

We realized today that Paisley has overtaken Zoe in height, but their measurements are basically spot on the same, so they're very excited to be able to share the sweater. I'm sure I will end up seeing Zoe in this sweater more than Paisley, but I could always be surprised!

The only real hard part of making this pattern was figuring out how big to make each block. You can see how good my math skills are in how small the red block at the top is. LOL

I may have also had to make a few goes of the sleeves before getting the decreases in the correct places. Redoing them was definitely the right call though!

Organic Cotton Plus's yarn is really amazing and I always love working with it. Have you worked with it before? What color would you get?

I hope you've enjoyed my overload of pictures for this, and really check out Organic Cotton Plus!!

Sailor Pant & Waffle Knit Tee

2018-11-29T14:21:00-05:00

When Organic Cotton Plus contacted me about another review in preparation for Black Friday (note the Holiday Deals below!) I decided to make something for winter. I like to try out something new each time I test out fabric. I also always make sure to only sew what I would normally make and buy myself. I really hate making things that won’t get use in my wardrobe.

This time around I went with this heavier weight Hemp and Organic Cotton Weave in Indigo paired with a knitted waffle knit rib fabric in grey and navy. Ever since I made my blue culottes I’ve been wanting to make the full length version with the button front waist. I just love a classic sailor pant!

The hemp mix is almost like a cross between denim and linen. It’s 10 oz, so a great pant weight. Not too stiff and easy to sew. The color is a rich indigo with a bit of texture in the weave. Just lovely. This rib knit is just what I was looking for. I have a store bought tee in a rib that I’ve wanted to recreate and this knit is perfect. Nice and stable to work with with just enough stretch that it holds its shape well. Plus it’s surprisingly soft. I’m sucker for a good stripe (half my me made tops are stripe tees at this point.)

I’m trying to be a bit pro-active this year and sew ahead of season. It’s still quite warm here in Florida but my winter wardrobe is always a bit sparse. The winter season is more fall like here and only lasts a short time so by the time I get around to sewing its usually already warming up again. Not this year!

The pant pattern is Very easy Vogue 9282 view C in a size 12 which I needed to take in quite a bit. I may need to size down to a 10 at the waist next time. The pant pattern is actually a faux button front with a back zip so I had to alter my pattern to make a functional front button panel. I really don’t like the look of a back zip on a pant so I knew I’d be doing some altering. I made a false front underlay that closes with a large hook bar at center front that is sewn to the center seam panel and then two drop down front panels.

I wanted to try something different for my button closures and learn a new technique so I looked through my back issues of Threads for a new method. The one I used is by Lois Ericson for unconventional bound buttons from a 2010 issue (I forget which one-I’ll go back and check later). Here’s a link to the method. I found this a wonderful and very simple method to add two long welt buttonholes that are then sewn closed in between the buttons. Time saving and elegant. I also added inseam large pockets. I used old dress shirt and silk fabric scraps for them as well as for interfacing. My fav way to use up scraps.

Pique Pembroke Dress

2018-11-19T10:58:00-05:00

Organic Cotton Plus sent me this lovely organic cotton pique fabric in the pesto colorway to play with. I used it to make myself a dress and a polo shirt for Tim. Twinsies! More on his polo shirt soon.

I had a hard time choosing a color for my pique because there were so many good choices. All the colors are really rich... the pesto was calling my name, though, in the end.

I haven't had much experience with pique, but I really enjoyed working with it! It's pretty stable, but it's got just enough stretch. I also found it to have great recovery considering it's 100% cotton with no lycra! It doesn't curl too much on the edges and has a cool texture on the exterior. I always think of pique for polo shirts, but it paired perfectly with the Pembroke pattern.

Bonus: this organic, GOTS-certified cotton pique is 80 inches wide, which means you get a big bang for your buck. I had 4 yards to play with, and I got a midi-dress, Tim's polo, and still have enough for at least another top!

OK, back to my Pembroke dress: I went for my typical Cashmerette size, a 16 C/D, which was perfect. I chose the jewel neckline, the ties and the midi length. The only change I made to the pattern is that I hemmed the elbow length sleeves by 1/2 inch instead of adding the bands. Personal preference.

One thing I noticed is that the Pembroke is a bit of an opposite-mullet. Party in the front. The back needs a little something-something. I wonder if I continued the ties around the back if I would like the back view better. Maybe it's just because I'm coming off my Rivermont dress, which had me all heart-eyes for the backside.

Pembroke is a really great dress pattern! My pique version probably won't really be appropriate until late spring here in Vermont, but in a heavier fabric, it could be a super cozy winter dress. I like the waist tie for a bit of definition. I also love the simplicity of the Pembroke pattern. Talk about a quick and satisfying sew...

Wool Felt Tote

2018-10-19T13:03:00-04:00

A few months back, a friend tipped me off to the most beautiful tote bag I'd ever seen. I LOVED the dark grey wool outer, the mixed media with the leather straps, and the large size to accommodate knitting projects. What I did not love was the $180 price tag. So when Organic Cotton Plus contacted me about a review, I had a vague notion of trying to copy the twig&horn bag. That notion became a reality when I saw their 100% wool felt. Available in small sheets, by the yard, or even in ribbon, I couldn't wait to nab some yardage and make my own tote bag.

I selected Charcoal and the color is perfect. The lining is 100% cotton broadcloth in Pumice, which is a sort of pinky-lilac color. I don't believe I've ever worked with broadcloth before. It reminded me of a high quality muslin, although a bit sheer. Perfect for a contrast bag lining and very easy to sew. For straps, I went with black hemp webbing in a width of 1.5".

I spent a lot of time searching for a pattern that would get me close to my inspiration bag. Being primarily a garment sewist, the only bag designer I knew offhand was Noodlehead (Range Backpack, I'm coming for you someday!). I checked out her website and found the Wool+Wax Tote pattern, which looked pretty darn close. I happened to run across her booklet, Everyday Essentials, when I was ordering some fabric from another shop, and added that to my cart. The Everyday Essentials booklet contains the Wool+Wax Tote pattern, and two additional ones, although you can purchase all the patterns separately as PDFs.

The pattern was very easy to follow. I think I spent as much time cutting and interfacing as I did sewing! I used a universal 80/12 needle and a walking foot. The wool felt has no spandex or stretch but I did find the walking foot fed the layers much better than a regular foot. I used pink thread for a subtle contrast with the topstitching. The only change I made was to add a magnetic closure, and also to add some ultra firm stabilizer to the bottom.

This project should have been super quick and easy, but I ran into one snag that definitely needs discussed. I chose not to prewash the felt. Here is the description from the website:

Dry clean only - if washed, the wool will have a boiled wool look. It can also shrink depending on how hot the temperature of water is - the hotter it is the more it will shrink.

Based on this info, I thought it would be better not to prewash. I knew I was making a bag and that I could spot-clean it as needed. I have a lot of experience with wool, and when washed they all behave differently. I thought it would be better not to risk it.

My thought process would have been fine EXCEPT that I forgot about interfacing. When I began fusing my outer bag pieces to my interfacing, it shrank (wool+heat+water=shrinkage). It wasn't a lot, but it was enough for me to notice the first piece looked different and to compare it to its identical counterpart.

At that point, I had already cut all my pieces, so I had a decision to make. Prewash my remaining yardage and recut (if possible!), or continue with what I had and trim the lining pieces to match my wool as it shrank. I went with option #2, because the thought of wasting all that fabric really bothered me.

As it turned out, it wasn't a big deal. I interfaced the pieces that required it, and trimmed down the ones that didn't shrink. Since this wasn't a complicated pattern it was easy to know how and when to trim. My finished bag is probably a little smaller than drafted but it works just fine for holding my knitting.

In conclusion, if you want to work with this wool felt (which you should, because it is awesome!) consider whether or not it will ever be hot/wet/washed DURING the project AND after.

One other item to note: the hemp webbing felt fairly stiff when it arrived, and the black color is VERY black. I was concerned about it bleeding dye when getting wet even incidentally, like in the rain. I prewashed it by hand in my sink with Synthrapol. Synthrapol is a detergent meant to pull out excess dye from fabric. I've used it with my own dye projects to help reduce bleeding color. I was glad I took this precaution because there was dye bleed, although less than I expected. A bonus side effect was that the webbing came out super soft afterward.

I am such a huge natural fibers junky, and working with the items at Organic Cotton Plus is always a treat. I've never been disappointed with the fabrics I've gotten, and their shipping is crazy fast. Check out all their beautiful fabrics here!

Pocket Pillow, Tote Bag, and Quilt

2018-09-19T08:30:00-04:00

Creation: Pocket Pillow, Tote Bag, and Quilt

Fabrics Used: Various quilting fabrics

The Visionary: Virginia, Gingercake

Our Thoughts: These are each awesome ideas to use for the beach or picnicking! We love her fabric choices and think they all turned out beautifully!

Printed Poplin Fifi Pyjamas

2018-08-17T14:35:00-04:00

These are the Fifi Pyjamas from Tilly And The Buttons. I’ve seen these around and have always thought they were super cute. The description states the pattern is a delicate camisole that is cut on the bias for a flowing shape, soft pleated cups, princess seams in the back, bias binding straps and curved hem elastic shorts. This pattern is actually quite simple, but takes longer than you might think. There are pleats, french seams and self-made bias binding. Put all of that together and you get a really special pair of pajamas.

I’ve made a couple other Tilly patterns: Clemence Skirt, Etta Dress and Marigold Jumpsuit. I should have thought more about the sizing. My measurements are 36-32-41 which puts me in a bust size 4, waist and hips 5. I graded the top pattern from 4 at the top to 5 at the bottom. I didn’t think much about the cupsize since I’m normally a C/D cup and Tilly’s patterns seem to align with B/C cups. That said, my boobs don’t fill the cups – almost, but no. I guess it’s not a huge deal since the pajamas are supposed to be loose fitting to lounge around in.

My favorite thing about this pattern are the french seams. I’ve never sewn them before and was actually dreading it but I love them! If it didn’t take so much extra time, I would sew all my wovens this way because it’s beautiful and makes me feel fancy. I mean, look at this:

I want to add that cutting this out is a little awkward since some of it is on the bias and some isn’t. It’s not difficult or anything, but you just need to pay attention to the cut chart and your grainline on all pieces. You’ll also be making your own bias binding, but don’t fret – it’s actually pretty easy! I’ve made some in the past but typically end up buying it ready-made since it can eat up a lot of your fabric.

For the shorts I made a size 5 with no modifications. It has you measure your middle waist, about 2 inches from your natural waist, and mine was 37″. You’re supposed to deduct 10% and add room for seam allowance but I went with just the 90% result of 33″ and didn’t add the seam allowance since I like my elastic to be a bit tighter. I stitched it on with the recommended zig-zag stitch and the fit is perfect. These are really comfortable!

The fabric is made from a beautiful poplin from Organic Cotton Plus*. It looks like the have sold out of the swallows but they have a lovely dandelion print that would look amazing as an Emery dress. I love how the organic cotton feels on my skin and it’s soft enough for sleep – so yay! I’m all about poplins lately. I know I usually go with a black/white print but this time around I wanted something a bit more demure and girlie since it’s sleepwear. Plus, I always want animals on my clothes!

Classic Button Up Shirt

2018-07-20T12:13:00-04:00

Organic Cotton Plus offered to send me some fabric (they sent me the fabric for free, but my opinions about it are my own), and this classic cotton chambray jumped out at me. After considering several pattern options, I decided it needed to be paired with an equally classic one...

The Liesl + Co Classic Shirt pattern is a definite TNT for me! The pattern is exactly as billed: a classic shirt that looks good in a variety of fabrics. A match meant to be.

On this chambray Classic Shirt, I made the same size and alterations as I have on my last few iterations of the pattern: 16 D, full bicep adjustment, shortened by an inch in the bodice, and curved the hemline to be more of a classic shirt-tail.

Chambray is classically blue and white (just trying to see how many times I can say variants of "classic" before kicking my own ass), but this one, in the forest colorway, is a gorgeous blue-green warp threads and white weft threads. Perfectly summery. The fabric is excellent for shirts: lightweight and really easy to sew.

I also love the texture of this chambray. It has a cool striated, slub in white thread, running parallel to the grain. I played with that stripe a bit by cutting the yokes, cuffs and pockets on the cross grain. It's subtle, but I like it.

The perfect (but not particularly classic) matching green buttons were in my stash.

Twill Burda Midi Skirt & Scoop Neck Tee

2018-07-03T10:48:00-04:00

I just love a nice full midi skirt. Paired with a simple tee it’s one of my favorite silhouettes. This Ice Blue Twill Burda Midi skirt paired with a self drafted white scoop neck tee is one of my new favorite outfits. The skirt is just casual enough for everyday wear, especially with the rustic coconut shell buttons, and the tee is a true wardrobe staple.

This is my second go at this Burda skirt pattern. Last time I made it my fabric choice was a fail. Just too lightweight to support the silhouette. I’ve been planning to make this Burda Skirt again in a sturdier fabric for some time. When Organic Cotton Plus contacted me for another review of their fabrics I knew just what I wanted to make! I’ve been really wanting to try out their twills- I love them for pants and they have an awesome selection of colors (warm + cool colors). It’s a given that I’ll be ordering more in the future.

I originally planned to make this skirt in an Orange/Rust color but after thinking it over decided to go for a more summery color. I already have a pair of twill culottes in that color. This is also one of my #2018MakeNine projects for the year. So far two done and one half way there!

The Ice Blue Twill just makes me think of spring. So fresh and pretty. The twill itself has a nice sturdy hand and is a real workhouse fabric. It has a really lovely and pronounced twill pattern which makes for a nice bit of texture in this solid. I love wearing blue and white- as you can tell if you’re been reading my blog for awhile! So it was a no brainer to mix this skirt with a white tee.

The skirt pattern calls for two snaps at the waist and a hidden placket of buttons underneath but I kept mine all on the outside since I do love a button front skirt. Luckily my machine cooperated with some good buttonholes. Plus how beautiful are these coconut buttons! They’re all ever so slightly different but add a nice rustic touch. I love the color and so far they are nice and sturdy.

The hem was then pressed and handsewn before I did all the topstitching. I really like the effect of the slightly lighter ice blue thread on the twill. It adds a bit more dimension. Everything was topstitched with a double spool of thread to make it a bit more defined like I do on denim. Also worth noting, even though this is a heavier weight of twill it was super easy to stitch, even through multiple layers.

Now on to the easy make- the scoop neck tee. I really love to wear a deep scoop on my tees. It really makes the most of my smaller bust and highlights my neck. This stretch jersey is wonderful to work with, it’s got a nice beefy weight to it and is perfectly opaque. What really makes it wonderful though is that 10% spandex content. Great stretch makes for a fab fitted tee. The stretch jersey in white was in production when I ordered but totally worth the wait. It was shipped quite quickly once in stock.

Bloom Dress

2018-06-07T12:13:00-04:00

My how time has flown by this year. It seems as if 2018 just started and now as I look at my calendar, I cannot believe April is coming to an end. Though it sounds cliché, I find myself always baffled by how quickly the weeks roll past me. When 2018 began, I promised myself that I would attempt to slooooowwww down. I am not sure if I have quite grasped that concept fully, at least not in all aspects of my life.

There is one project in particular that I have managed to work on slowly, allowing it to unfold organically as the seasons have changed. I am thankful that this project did not fully open itself up to me from the beginning as I have gained a greater appreciation for its process. I suppose you are wondering what that project might be, so let me rewind a little bit, back to its inception.

At the beginning of February, I was asked to write a blog post for Organic Cotton Plus, one of my all-time favorite fabric retailers. They have everything a sustainable designer could hope for and I practically squealed out loud at the opportunity. I have honestly used so many different items from their shop for my own personal brand or to experiment all-natural dyeing techniques on and haven’t found a fabric that I didn’t enjoy working with.

So, for this project, I wanted to work with something I hadn’t ever worked with before, and try out new techniques I was just scratching the surface with. I went in to the process only knowing that I wanted to work with their chambray and that I wanted to dye it with local plants or items found in my own kitchen. Beyond that criterion, I was at a loss.

Sure, I had ideas, but none of them seemed to sing out to me. I needed an idea to sing out so profoundly that I would want to share it with the world and possibly join in with a bit of my own karaoke.

It wasn’t until I was working on a dress for a client that inspiration struck. The dress I had been asked to create was simple, yet beautiful. It had this large, billowy skirt and a loose fit that would make anyone want to live inside it for days on end. With a few tweaks, I knew I could redefine this dress and create my very own perfect Garden Dress.

Now, all this time I was trying to work out WHAT I was going to create with my new Chambray fabric, I was experimenting with whole dyestuffs from my back yard. I felt like a little kid again, going on adventures, picking flowers and leaves and trying to figure out the names of all the trees. Then, a particular “weed” popped up in our backyard. It blanketed our space in a thicket of purple- I almost thought we were being overrun by a cousin to lavender.

With a little research, I found out that this “weed” was actually Henbit Deadnettle. What a great name, right? Henbit Deadnettle isn’t the cousin to lavender, but it is a relative to mint. You can even eat it!

Once I had figured out what the heck this plant actually was, I set out to collect some of it to dye with. I had no idea what to expect, I was simply on an adventure! And boy did things keep taking twists and turns.

The first time I dyed with my newfound friendly weed, my fabric came out this beautiful peachy-blush color. I absolutely adored it, though it blended nearly perfectly with my skin (yikes!), so when my second and final dye bath turned my Chambray a soft brown, I wasn’t terribly disappointed. It just goes to show that waiting even a week or so between dye collections can drastically change the color of your dye bath.

By the time my fabric was officially dyed, I had created the pattern for my Garden Dress, so all that was left to do was sew it all up! I quickly finished my project and was eager to photograph my latest make. However, it still felt as if something was missing.

Mind you, I had been packing and prepping for a move to a new house and had been working on bridal dresses as well as a blog post for The Hook Nook Life at the same time, so I was a bit strung out. It wasn’t until a few days before my move (incidentally as I was wrapping up the collaboration project with The Hook Nook Life) that I decided to just put half my dress into an avocado dye bath I had sitting on my stove. I’m not sure what drove me to do this, but I am so happy that I followed that gut instinct because now I feel as if nothing is missing from my dress.

What exactly was the point of my whole story? Honestly, I just wanted to tell you about the awesome power of slowing down. Had I tried to rush through this project, I may have created a garment I wasn’t super excited about sharing. I also wanted to brag on my favorite fabric company a little bit. I think it is really cool to be able to work with fabrics that are coming to me in their most natural form and transform them into something completely new and original, like this Garden Dress.

And I want to share that sense of discovery with you by giving you a FREE copy of my Bloom Garden Dress! I have created a PDF with Instructions + Copy Shop Download just for you! I really hope you enjoy it and I would LOVE to see what you create from it! You can download each by clicking the links above- Happy sewing!

*Please note this dress takes 2.5-3 yards of 58” wide fabric to create.*

Harmony Art

2018-04-01T00:00:00-04:00

When did you know you wanted to become a fabric designer?

In the fall of 1997, I attended a birthday party for my great aunt's 2nd husband. I almost didn't go to the party, but that day changed my life. My second cousin, Susan Adame, whom I hadn't seen in years, was there. I asked her what she was up to. She described the school she was attending: The California School of Professional Fabric Design, in Berkeley, CA. I had never even heard of textile design before. Immediately, a light bulb went on in my head, and I decided right then and there that (textile design) was what I wanted to do with my life.

How did you start?

The 1st day after the party (and the conversation with my cousin) I called the school, signed up for next available class and after 18 months of working full time and going to school nights and weekends I finished the program! My life changed when I discovered the world of textile and surface design. Design and pattern had always surrounded me, but I was oblivious to it. I can vividly remember coming home from my first class and looking in the closet for the first time and seeing (actually noticing) the patterns on my clothes. From then on, it was all over. Life is full of pattern, and it is now impossible for me not to notice all of the design that surrounds me.

Where does your inspiration come from?

When I worked for big box design firms (creating for WalMart, Target, Costco, Bed, Bath and Beyond) I was sent out to go “trend shopping” to get inspired. Basically I was paid to go shopping and find cute things and then come back and create our own spin on what was already in stores. Now that I am my own boss, I go “trend hiking”. Most of my designs are inspired by the natural world that surrounds me. Take the design “Stornetta” for example. The flowers on the fabric were found while hiking on the Stornetta public lands- https://www.visitmendocino.com/point-arena-stornetta-public-lands/ . I love being outside. I live in a remote and beautiful place. To give you a sense of how remote - the closest stoplight is over an hour away. . . being away from stores and close to nature suits me and my design research just fine.

"My goal is to have designs that aren’t trendy

so much as timeless".

Check out what some of our bloggers made with Harmony's fabric here and here!

When did your relationship with Organic Cotton Plus begin?

Truthfully, Harmony Art (http://www.harmonyart.com) probably wouldn’t exist if it weren’t for Organic Cotton Plus. While at The Green Business Conference in SF in the fall of 2004 I was waiting to speak with Julia Butterfly Hill and give her a copy of my environmental art piece, Trees Talk (wisdom from a Redwood tree). Kate Scott was also waiting to talk with Julia. We struck up a conversation as we waited our turn and immediately hit it off. Kate is an amazing apparel designer who uses organic and sustainable fabrics. We had such a good time talking that Julia Butterfly Hill didn't want to interrupt us! I asked Kate why she didn't use many prints in her line and she explained how limited her choices of organic prints were. She told me about Organic Cotton Plus where she purchased most of her organic fabric. The idea of creating my own line of organic prints was born in that moment.

I remember making a phone call to Organic Cotton Plus the following week and asking them - “IF I were to create a line of organic cotton printed fabrics, would they sell them?” Without hesitation - and without knowing me or seeing my work, Barbara answered, “YES!” I vividly remember hanging up the phone and thinking - I can do this. There is a need, there is an outlet - now I just need to find someone who can produce them. THAT was not so simple - it took more than 8 months to get our first line - a whopping 3 designs printed - we shipped the first rolls to Organic Cotton Plus in August of 2005 and we have been selling our fabrics through Organic Cotton Plus ever since. The prints pictured below were the first 3 to be printed!

What is your favorite part about creating and designing?

Two things…

The first is the way the world and time disappears when I am designing. I can get lost in the colors and layout for hours. Playing with colors, scale and layout I find exciting and joyful.

The second part is the co-creating process. I love being given a challenge and then being set free to figure it out. This year I am on a year long voyage to try to bring more co-creating back to my life. Working for yourself is a wonderful thing but I have missed that co-creating process so I am working on re-energizing that part of my life. Earlier this year I worked with a company, Herbal Animals https://www.herbal-animals.com/ , that wanted a Giraffe print for their product. That is in production now and we should have it available for them (and others!) in a few months. I am also working with artist/friend Suzan Friedland - https://suzanfriedland.weebly.com/ - to bring her artwork to printed fabrics. She is having a retrospective show of her work in October and we plan to offer her new by-the-yard at that time (if not before!).

What has been the best part of the Harmony Art adventure?
Definitely connecting with thoughtful likeminded people. The friendships I have made over the last 13+ years have been wonderful, meaningful and inspiring.

Can you tell us about one of those?
Well, there have been many lovely people I have had the pleasure of working with over the years. It is hard to pick just one! I read about Teresa VanHattan-Granath’s, aka The Green Bag Lady (http://greenbaglady.blogspot.com/) eco-art project in August of 2008 in an article in Plenty Magazine. Immediately I thought - I love this project and want to support it!

Green Bag Lady is an eco-friendly art project started by artist Teresa VanHatten-Granath in 2008. Teresa and her international teams of volunteer “Bagettes” make bags out of donated fabric and give them away for FREE in exchange for the promise to refuse paper + plastic when shopping.

I contacted Teresa and offered to send her fabric for her bags. We hit it off immediately! At that time she had given away over 1,700 bags. As of today, the count is up to over 45,206! Even though we live in different states, Teresa I consider one of my best friends. She is a constant source of strength and inspiration for me.

You can make one of these bags yourself with this free pattern and tutorial!

Spa Robe

2018-02-26T13:12:00-05:00

I'm not the sort of woman who swans around the house in an elegant wrap like some sort of 1940's movie star. No. I'm much more the Practical Robe sort. I need something put on after my shower. Something to keep me covered and warm as I brush my teeth and dry my hair. (or feed the dog and let him in & out, as he inevitably needs just as soon as I'm naked and wet).

Sourcing just the right fabric for my spa robe was much easier than I expected. I wanted an absorbent terry cloth that was thick and durable. Something I could wash and dry often, but would still last many years. My search started, and ended, at Organic Cotton Plus. When Organic Cotton Plus learned about my spa robe project, and my intention to use the 16oz Terry Cloth from their shop, they made the incredibly generous offer to donate 3 yards of that fabric to me for the garment.

Creating My Spa Robe

As you would expect, construction of my Lahja Dressing Gown was pretty straight forward. I measured myself and the pattern before deciding on which size to sew. I cut the cropped sleeve but my arms are so short, they hit on my hands like long sleeves. I decided to leave them that way, knowing I could always roll them up if I needed them to be shorter. I also decided not to shorten the length, even though at 5ft, I am significantly shorter than the drafted pattern. This means the woman's "above the knee" hem hits me at the top of my calf. I don't mind at all because I have a teenage boy and the longer length means I can bend over and still maintain my modesty.

If you also choose a natural fiber when you make your Lahja Dressing Gown (or really, for any pattern), keep in mind that there will be shrinkage. Some organic cotton can shrink more than 10% when it's washed and dried. Make sure you pre treat your fabric, as you plan to care for the finished garment, before you cut. I had an approximate 5% shrinkage in my 3 yard length after washing in cold water and drying 3x.

I used my regular machine and my walking foot to stitch this robe, only using my overlocker to finish the seams and prevent shedding of the loops. My Brother 1040d is a wuss. If it won't slice through 2 layers of denim, there's no way it was cutting through the pile on terry cloth. After washing and drying, the fabric was soft and fluffy and nearly 1/4 inch thick!

In some places, like on the collar where I was supposed to stitch in the ditch to finish the inside, I decided to hand stitch, rather than try to shove all the layers though my machine. This resulted in an unexpected bonus: an absolutely beautiful roll on the collar edge.

A big pet peeve I have about mass produced robes is probably something you never even thought about: placement of the patch pockets. It makes me totally crazy that when I have my robe on, the wrap front covers one of the pockets. In my Me-Made version, I am able to customize this smallest of details. I have positioned the pockets all the way over, aligned to the side seam. When my robe is on, the pockets are not covered. I also placed them higher, so that my short little arms can still reach inside.

3. Subtle Details

As I mentioned previously, this terry cloth is thick! Too thick for details such as belt loops and tie belts. Fortunately, I found some scraps of washed silk dupioni in my stash in a Not Quite White color. The smoothness and sheen are a lovely contrast to the nubby texture of the terry cloth.

My Finished Spa Robe

What do you think? Have I achieved my goal of a luxurious yet sensible spa bathrobe?

YOU BET I HAVE! I love this robe. I wear it daily.

It fits me wonderfully. My wrap front stays wrapped. It is long and over sized, without being overwhelming. The fabric is thick and plush and heavy. It does not shed loops.

You know how when you buy new towels, they always feel so soft, then when you try to dry off all the water just gets pushed around, and the towel doesn't really absorb anything? This organic terry cloth is NOTHING like that!

My spa bathrobe is really an elegant wearable towel, which is exactly what I wanted!

Eco-dyed Tshirt

2018-02-01T08:14:00-05:00

I'm feeling totally proud of this show & tell today, not only did I sew this t-shirt but I also I dyed it with rose petals. So here it is, my first attempt at Eco Dyeing!

I got my inspiration for eco dyeing from this book (in Australia here) and honestly, it was just so super easy to do. The hardest part of eco dyeing is waiting - waiting for the dye to set so you can unroll the fabric to see what magic you have created. Also, the best part about dyeing this was is that you don't need any fancy equipment!

Eco Dyeing:

I wanted to see if there was difference between using dried petal vs fresh petals, as you can see,

yes there is a major difference!

Materials:

I used organic cotton jersey fabric from here, soy milk, rose petals, tea leaves (from my teapot) and some string and I used this tshirt pattern!

If you want to try this fun process yourself, I also recommend reading the following books: eco dyeing for fabric, or this book for yarn and this book for setting up your own 'dyeing garden' (which is what I'm trying to do!).

You can do this too, just remember to use your imagination and have fun!

DIY Pillowcases

2018-01-29T13:18:00-05:00

Materials (for one pillowcase):

Two pieces of fabric, each 1 yard
One 22" zipper ( I used an "invisible" zipper, it hides the teeth of the zipper)
Cutting mat
Rotary cutter and fabric scissors
Pins and clips

First lay your fabric right sides together. If you are using a patterned fabric, be mindful of the direction in which the pattern is going, making sure it is the way you want it. Then take an existing pillowcase and lay it on top. Cut out your fabric around the pillowcase leaving about an inch around all sides, this will be your seam allowance.

Clip all the edges together.

Place your existing pillowcase back on top and pin your fabric all along the edges of the pillowcase.

Here comes the tricky part, attaching the zipper. You will want the right side of the zipper facing the right side of your fabric. Starting with the fabric on top, place the right side (looking at the zipper right/correct side up) of the zipper along the edge of the fabric and pin.

Sew the zipper on. Before attaching the other side of the zipper, make sure to unzip it just a little bit. Then take the left side of the zipper (still with the right side facing the right side of the fabric) and pin it along the edge of the bottom piece of fabric. Sew on.

Once you have sewn on your zipper, make sure that it is unzipped enough for you to be able to unzip it all the way once you've sewn all your edges together. Next clip the fabrics together with the zipper sandwiched in between, this will just hold your fabric in place at the top while sewing the rest of the edges. Start to sew in the same path your pins are running. *If you are using an interlock or a knit fabric, keep in mind that it stretches so you will want to smooth out your fabric before sewing along the next edge, to be sure there is no bunching.

Lastly, un zip your zipper and turn the fabric right side out! There you have your very own customized pillowcase!

A few tips: Before turning your fabric right side out, stick a pillow in it. You may have to adjust your measurements a little bit. Mine was a little too long so I had to cut off a few inches and re-sew the bottom. Also, If there is a lot of excess fabric along your seams, trim it off, that way you won't have lumpy parts in the case.

Up-Cycled Bomber Jacket

2018-01-10T09:37:00-05:00

Creation: Bomber Jacket

Fabrics Used: Rib Knit, Black

The Visionary: Laura, Trash To Couture

Our Thoughts: Laura shows us how to make a bomber jacket from a men's shirt. A super easy project for beginners. Plus you can feel good about recycling an old shirt and turning it into something awesome!

Wool Peacoat for toddler

2017-11-21T07:53:00-05:00

It seems I'm on a coat-making kick when it comes to using fabrics from Organic Cotton Plus. My previous review was a Kelly Anorak with their fabulous pink cotton twill. I knew that this time around I wanted to make my oldest daughter a winter coat, and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out!

This is the Olivia and Oliver Peacoat from Peek-a-Boo Pattern Shop. I made this coat once before for my daughter, when she was just a baby (sob!). I've always wanted to make it again, and I'm so glad I did!

For my outer fabric, I chose this navy wool (it comes in 11 colors!). Aside from being the classic peacoat color, it also matches my daughter's school colors. I wasn't quite sure about the fabric and whether it'd be suitable for a coat, but I looked through the older posts from other OCP bloggers and found a coat made from the same fabric. Double-checking the weight (13 oz/sq yard) led me to believe that it would be a bit lighter than wool melton, and I was right.

For the lining, I settled on a beautiful golden poplin from Cloud9 fabrics (doesn't say the maker online but it was on the selvedge). It is a little "sticky" in that it doesn't glide over clothing like a silkier fabric would, but I wasn't interested in purchasing polyester just to make dressing easier (have you ever dressed a Kindergartner? It's not easy, no matter what they're wearing!).

Both of these fabrics were absolutely wonderful. The wool, in particular, was a great surprise. I've worked with heavy wool in the past and when you start adding layers, it becomes very difficult to sew. Then when the coat is finished it weighs a million pounds. My daughter is still in a five point harness carseat, and I needed her coat to be slim but warm so that she can be buckled properly on her way to school.

The pattern is surprisingly simple. No collar stand, no pieced facing/lining (only the back panel and sleeves are the lining fabric). Minimal topstitching. But the impact is strong. I opted for only a single row of functional buttons. Extra buttons usually end up confusing my kids. After a quick muslin of a size 6 (my daughter will be 6 in a few months) I realized it was a little too small for wearing over a cardigan, and I wanted it a bit wider. I slashed and spread the front and back pieces from the shoulder to the hem. I spread them 2" at the hem on the front (4" total with two pieces), and 1" on the back (piece was cut on fold so 2" total added). I also added in-seam pockets, and I rounded the collar for more of a Peter Pan style.

My daughter goes around school telling everyone that her mom made her coat, and I kind of want to cry over how sweet she is! The changes I made resulted in a bigger coat that will hopefully fit the entire season, and dare I hope for next season as well? We'll see. At the very least, her two younger sisters will have a high-quality garment to wear when they're older.

THE 1920’S MATA HARI DRESS

2017-10-23T10:50:00-04:00

I used some gorgeous hemp silk from Organic Cotton Plus, that I was given in exchange for a review. I had never sewn with hemp before and it sounded interesting and a good fabric for this dress. The fabric was un-dyed and I wanted to try dyeing it, so Organic Cotton Plus also sent me the procion dye and soda ash to dye the fabric and experiment with. This fabric was so nice with a beautiful sheen and it resembled linen. It’s a kind of a light midweight fabric and opaque and just gorgeous.

I thoroughly read the directions and followed them for the first time that I dyed the fabric. The only thing was that I did not have was enough salt in the dye and I’m not certain if that effected the color, but it turned into more of an apple green color. Looking at the photos now as I write this blog post, it pretty much looks exactly like the color in the jar. At first, I thought about going with that color, but I really did want more of blue tinged emerald green for this dress, so I decided to dye the fabric again. I used an emerald Rit dye for the second try and got it a little darker, but still not the color I imagined it would be. So I tried dyeing it one more time. Third time’s a charm, right? The last time, I used a teal dye and got a color that was much closer to what I pictured in my head.

I paired the hemp silk with silk cotton that I had leftover in my stash from another project. The two fabrics went so well together and the lightweight silk blend fabric didn’t add bulk under the overblouse.

My inspiration for this outfit was a 1920’s version of Mata Hari. I made this to wear to the Friday Night Social at Costume College, which had a spy theme.

Ever since I bought this pattern a couple of years ago, I pictured using gold bias tape for the trim. I think it went well for what I envisioned with kind of a gold lame look. I added gold bugle beads to the trim as well as a beaded tassel on the overblouse. I’m not sure why the tassel doesn’t fall over the side drape on the dressform, as it seems to when I wear it.

That beaded trim took me much longer to complete than I thought it would. There’s a lot of territory to cover on those tiers! I was sidelined by the wildfire, which put me behind on my projects. I brought this dress to work on while we were evacuated, but didn’t have much desire to bead it. I ended up beading it while we drove down to LA and even did some of it while I was sitting in a lecture at CoCo. I didn’t notice until the trip down that I hadn’t even hemmed the dress, so I hand sewed the hem in a CoCo lecture as well. I also had failed to add the gold bias tape to the side slit on the skirt, so that’s something I need to do in the future.

I did a lot of hand sewing on this ensemble, which is something that I think always gives a better finish, especially with vintage outfits.

This fabric was really a dream to sew with. Like I mentioned before, it’s a lot like linen, with a beautiful texture and sheen. It does wrinkle a bit, but not as bad as linen.

I actually prefer this dress without the overblouse, but I love the three tiers. Janet (Decades of Style) mentioned that another sewist had made a jacket out of the overblouse, so I think that’s what I’m going to do. I think that hack will work and be pretty easy with a slit down the center.

As with most 20’s patterns, I went up a size at the hips to achieve the loose columnar fit with this dress.

The lightweight silk cotton that I used for the bodice is a bit sheer, so I have a slip on underneath it. To be period correct, I should be wearing a slip regardless. Janet had recommended using the same dress fabric for the bodice, so that you can wear this ensemble with or without the overblouse. I didn’t have enough fabric for the bodice, but thankfully I had a similarly colored fabric already in my stash. The pattern suggests using a lining fabric for the bodice.

This dress wasn’t really one of my favorites to sew. Why? I guess it was just because those tiers weren’t that fun to sew, but the effect that they give is well worth the effort.

When I put this dress on to take photos of it, I forgot to add the sautoir necklace that I wore with it at CoCo. Below is a photo from Coco and how I wore it there. I still need to work on taking photos in public with another photographer…. I am so much better posing when I’m by myself.

As I keep making/wearing gold outfits, I’ve put some gold shoes on my wish list. :0

Lander Twill Pants

2017-10-17T10:54:00-04:00

The pants! After my first pair of True Bias Lander pants, I knew there would be another, and soon... I had a few tweaks to make regarding size, but was pretty enamored with the pattern!

Enter Organic Cotton Plus... they offered to send me some fabric to review, and, given my previous experiences with them (see Jasper and Riley, both wardrobe winners for me), I jumped on it. Organic Cotton Plus provided me this fabric for free, but all of my opinions are my own.

Conveniently, Organic Cotton Plus has a line of cotton twill that is the same weight (7 oz/square yard) that Kelli at True Bias recommends for the Lander pattern (she used this weight in her gorgeous sample photos)! Plus, the twill is Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS)-certified, which means it's certified to be produced in a manner that's environmentally and socially responsible. Yes.

While the twill comes in a pretty wide variety of colors, the plum color immediately jumped out at me. This fabric is great! It's not too heavy, not too light; definitely the perfect weight for the Lander pant. The color is vibrant and rich, and I can feel good about the fabric's origins.

After finding my first (tester) pair of Landers to be a bit big all around, I decided to size down to a 16. Luckily, for the final pattern, Kelli provides a 1" seam allowance on the outer leg seam so that you can tweak the fit. I ended up giving myself a bit more room through the hip/lower belly area, but sticking with the 16 elsewhere. Perhaps I should have done a legitimate full abdomen adjustment of some sort, but this cheater side seam adjustment worked out ok, too.

I went with the suggested hem allowance (I may be close to 5'8", but I have the legs of a 5'5" woman), which seems better than my slightly-too-long first pair of Landers. Does it look right, though? Or too short? I can't decide what the best length should be... help me, stylish internet friends.

Other construction details: I skipped the belt loops this time, because I'll never use them. I lined the front pockets with rayon challis scraps from my Suki robe. I also decided to add a little strip of interfacing to the top of the back pockets to prevent them from stretching out. For the corners of the back pockets I topstitched little triangles for extra security, like you do on a shirt's front pocket. The jeans buttons are from Joann Fabrics; I liked the dark color.

I think the Lander pant fits in well in my handmade wardrobe. Here I paired it with a long sleeved t-shirt (not handmade... turns out long sleeved t-shirts are a hole in my me-made closet) and my new Estelle jacket/cardigan thing. I tried it on with a few other things, too, and found it looked good with my Appleton top, Harrison shirts and several other tops. Hooray!

I'm really happy with these pants! The color is just gorgeous and I think they're pretty cute. I'd be curious to try a bottomweight with a hint of stretch if I make the Lander pants again. Organic Cotton Plus has a denim-like stretch twill that's slightly heavier than their non-stretch twill. Do you think it would work?

Box-Style Jacket

2017-10-16T09:35:00-04:00

A few months back I had the pleasure of collaborating with Organic Cotton Plus to make this lovely off the shoulder dress. I'm delighted to use one of their gorgeous fabrics for my latest project---a box style jacket. Truth be told for me as a designer the fabric comes first and then I hunt for the perfect design to go with it. Trust me there's no method to it for me and it's a completely intuitive process. Upon one glance of their Dashes Blue canvas fabric I absolutely and unequivocally knew I wanted to work with this fabric. The colors is so dynamic and beautiful and the dashes and their arrangement and pattern made it most interesting.

Those who know me and who have followed me for some time KNOW I'M BIG ON COLOR AND PATTERNS! I've never shied away from them. I've been that way since I began sewing over a decade ago and since become an Image and Color Consultant--check out my new website (www.distinctly-u.com). The first thing I do before selecting a fabric is to make sure it's going to go well with my skin tone. I was able to get a swatch from the wonderful folks at OCP and trust me the canvas was even prettier then it looked online. The blue is the perfect shade for my skin tone and is one that is perfect for a variety of different skin tones for sure!

After confirming the blue dash was what I wanted, I ordered fabric and anxiously waited it's arrival which was really quick. The website gave pre-treatment instructions which I followed exactly. The fabric washed and dried beautifully. A lot of cotton's can shrink up or discolor or even loose it's smooth texture. That wasn't the case for this fabric. It retained it's color and texture fine. You can definitely feel the quality of organic cotton. It's really strong and durable yet soft and supple.

After getting a good feel of the fabric and it's weight I realized I definitely wanted to make a jacket. I knew I wanted an uncomplicated style so the fabric could be the focus. NewLook 6496 certainly did the trick and was the perfect style for me. As a professional and entrepreneur running 2 businesses I want to add more jackets to my wardrobe. Simpler jackets like the box style are great because they are professional but not overtly dressy.

Here are a few details about the jacket:

- I lengthened about 3 or 4"

-I cut the size 12 and graded to 14. That's my usual grading but I should have given myself a little more room in the hips and sleeve. That correction is noted for next time.

-I added darts in the back for tapering so it wasn't too boxy.

-I didn't add the front band and unfortunately forgot to lengthen jacket front. So I had to go back and extend so in the end I did add a band of the same fabric LOL!

-I decided to fully line it

-I added a sleeve head and shoulder pads

-I shortened the sleeves a bit more. The next time I make this I would definitely like to add a cuff

For styling---I kept things fairly simple.

Blue Dash box style jacket

White Top

Silver dog tag

White studded bracelet

Light denim jeggings with cuff

Yellow strappy heels

---- I've got a little backstory (testimony) about the yellow heels: In planning this outfit I wanted yellow heels to wear with this outfit and had been hunting them down for weeks. I knew they would be the perfect addition and yellow great pairs great with blue---remember I'm a color consultant and I'm serious about color LOL. I hunted but to no avail. Did I say for weeks? For weeks! Who stocks yellow shoes in October. Well to no avail I gave up the search. On a whim one day I walked into a Goodwill while doing a donation and guess what I saw on one of the shelves. Yellow heels! Yellow heels that just so happened to be in my size and the exact color and style I wanted. That's hardly a coincidence. That's what I like to call a "God Wink" moment for sure. He sure knows how to make my little heart happy and I love Him for it!

This was indeed a fun jacket to make and that was definitely due to the Blue Dash Canvas from Organic Cotton Plus! This fabric inspired the entire concept for this outfit. I love when a great plan comes together! Thanks Organic Cotton Plus for such a beautiful fabric!