"Do your leather care products need to be used in a specific order?" Not necessarily—But you can absolutely use all four in sequence for a full restoration. But if your leather just needs a quick refresh or a little weatherproofing, feel free to pick the product that fits the job. Our system is flexible, and it’s all about giving you the tools to care for your leather in a way that fits your needs.Let’s break it down step by step... Let’s break it down step by step.

STEP #1 SADDLE SOAP TO CLEAN Use this when: Your leather is dirty, stained, or starting to look dull. Why it matters: Before conditioning or waterproofing, you always want to start with a clean surface. Our Saddle Soap gently lifts away dirt, sweat, and grime without drying out the leather. Think of it as a reset button—it prepares the leather to absorb oils and waxes more effectively. How often: Only when needed—usually every few months or when visible dirt builds up.

STEP #2 LEATHER SALVE TO CONDITION Use this when: Leather feels dry, stiff, or is starting to crack. Why it matters: The Leather Salve deeply nourishes and repairs dry or damaged leather. It’s rich, buttery, and packed with natural waxes and oils that sink deep into the leather to restore flexibility and strength. If your leather is vintage, heavily used, or exposed to sun and dryness, this is your go-to. How often: Every few months or as needed—especially in dry climates or for older leather.

STEP #3 LEATHER OIL TO NOURISH & SHINE Use this when: You want to maintain softness, restore natural luster, or do quick upkeep. Why it matters: Leather Oil is lighter than the Salve and great for routine maintenance. It soaks in fast and gives your leather a healthy glow. It also works well as a follow-up after using Leather Salve—think of it like moisturizer after a deep conditioning treatment. How often: Monthly, or anytime your leather starts to look a little dull or dry.

STEP #4 PROTECT WITH BOOT WAX Use this when: You want to waterproof your leather or protect it from the elements. Why it matters: Boot Wax creates a water-resistant barrier, helping prevent water stains, salt damage, and general wear from the outdoors. It’s especially useful for boots, bags, or jackets exposed to rain, snow, or mud. How often: As needed—before wet weather, hiking trips, or winter wear. Reapply when water stops beading on the surface.

YOUR LEATHER CARE, YOUR ROUTINE You can mix and match which products you use depending on your leather’s condition and what it needs. Here’s a quick reference: LEATHER IS... Dirty / Stained Dry / Cracked / Stiff Dull / Dry / Cracked Wet / Rainy / Heavy Use Full Restoration / Deep Care WE RECOMMEND... Saddle Soap Leather Salve Leather Oil Boot Wax Saddle Soap → Leather Salve → Leather Oil → Boot Wax

FINAL THOUGHTS Think of leather care like skincare, but for your favorite leather goods. You wouldn’t exfoliate, deep moisturize, and sunscreen every single day—but each plays a key role in a healthy routine. You don’t have to use all Otter Wax products at once, but knowing what each one does helps you give your leather exactly what it needs, when it needs it. Got a question about your specific item? Reach out anytime—we’re always happy to help.

This project is special because it comes from my sister-in-law, Emma, who recently inherited this leather briefcase that belonged to her grandmother. As a pilot for Horizon Airlines, Emma is constantly on the move and wanted to be able to use the bag to haul around all of her flight manuals and paperwork.

She sent it over to me hoping to get it to a point where it would not only look better, but also for it to be able to withstand the wear-and-tear of heavy daily use. 

Cleaning and conditioning this briefcase was pretty straightforward, but it did pose a couple challenges, namely a stubborn ink stain, scratches, and visible dry cracking. Follow along to see how we were able address these issues and get this bag back to looking better than it has in years.

The bag itself is well-constructed, but the visible ink stains and dry cracking had Emma just about ready to clip its wings. It's obviously been heavily used for a long time without much in the way of cleaning or conditioning.

I'm pretty good at being able to look past surface-level defects, and what I saw underneath was a bag made from super high quality leather that's been gradually softened and broken-in over a couple decades of use.

The ink stains present the biggest challenge, especially because they've had so much time to settle into the pores of the leather. Ink stains are notoriously difficult to extract from leather, think of it almost like removing a tattoo. You want to be able to remove as much of the dye as possible, but scrub too hard and you'll risk damaging the leather or permanent discoloration.

How hard you attack the stain really depends on the condition of the leather. This leather is pretty resilient, so I chose to be a little more aggressive and go after the stain with our Saddle Soap, warm water, and a power scrubber with a medium-stiffness nylon bristle.

After wiping all the residue left over from the cleaning process it was time to apply our Leather Salve to provide a deep conditioning treatment and really moisturize the dried out leather. 

I used both horsehair brushes to buff the surface of the Leather Salve clear, using the large brush for most of the surface and the smaller brush to buff the hard-to-reach spots and thread seams where the Salve tends to accumulate. I recommend going over everything twice just to make sure that you've evened everything out and buffed out anywhere the Salve might have accumulated.

For the final step, I went over the entire bag with a healthy coating of our Leather Oil. The great thing about our Leather Oil is that if you use it relatively often you'll never have to go through the entire reconditioning process.

Our Leather Oil helps maintain moisture levels in the leather and helps keep it from ever drying out to the point where conditioning would be necessary.

The outside of the sneakers was surprisingly clean, so all we had to do to was brush them off to make sure that the surface was free of any dirt, dust, or debris.

If your sneakers have any mud, caked on grime, or stains, we recommend cleaning with our Spot-Cleaner before applying wax. Having a clean surface when waxing an unwaxed fabric is super important because anything that isn't removed will get permanently sealed in under the layer of wax when applied.

Expect the sneakers to be slightly tacky to the touch for about a week. Feel free to wear them right away, but just be careful to keep dirt and pet hair away from the fabric until it's fully cured as it'll still be a little tacky. Cure time depends on any number of factors. For example, you can expect it to take longer for your wax to cure in cold and humid conditions or if you've applied a really thick layer of wax. You can expect your wax to cure faster if you're waxing in a place that's hot and dry, or if you've applied a really thin layer of wax.Most importantly, make sure you get outside, get some fresh air, and enjoy the look and functionality of your newly waxed sneakers.

Today we're working to revive this beautiful Brooks England B17 Saddle made from a high quality vegetable tanned leather dyed black. We'll first be using our Saddle Soap to give the leather a quick clean to remove grime from the surface and also open up the pores of the leather. We'll follow that with a light coat of our Leather Salve to restore hydration and repair dry-cracking. Finally, we'll follow up with a thin coat of our Leather Oil for an extra kick of hydrating nutrients and to revive natural luster and shine.

For cleaning, you'll need a container of warm/hot water, a tin of Saddle Soap, and one of our medium-abrasive Tampico Cleaning Brushes. The hot water helps to loosen any grime while also opening up the pores of the leather and the Tampico bristles are coarse enough to scrub off grime without scratching or damaging the leather.

Dip the brush in the water, swirl it in the soap until it softens up, and then apply directly to the leather. Repeat this process until you've covered the entire leather surface. It's important to always treat the entire item in order to achieve an even finish and coloration.

Use a damp rag to wipe away the Saddle Soap and any lingering white soapy residue. Repeat the cleaning process if necessary until the surface is completely free of any dirt, grime, dust, debris, etc. Use a soft-bristle Horsehair Buffing Brush to buff away any soapy residue still present in hard-to-reach spots like seams and edges.

Once you've thoroughly cleaned the surface of the leather, you'll want to immediately apply a thin coating of our Leather Salve while the pores of the leather are still soft and open. Create a divot in the middle of the tin with a lint-free cloth and swirl until it begins to soften. For this process, a rag cut from an old t-shirt works great. Use smooth, circular strokes and massage a thin layer of the Salve into the leather.

Let the leather rest for an hour or until you see a very thin, white residue begin to appear on the surface of the leather. This happens as the leather absorbs the oils and nutrients while forming a protective wax barrier that adds a layer of protection as well as helps to seal in the leather treatment for a long-lasting conditioning treatment. Use a soft brush or cloth to buff the thin wax layer until the white residue becomes transparent.

It's perfectly fine to apply the Leather Oil immediately after the Leather Salve. Leather is like a sponge, it can only absorb as much as it can absorb. So the Leather Oil helps us maximize absorption. Apply the Leather Oil with a cloth or soft brush and then allow it to sit for an hour or so. After an hour, if the leather surface isn't dry to the touch, any excess oil can be buffed or wiped away.

After letting the leather rest overnight, give the leather a quick buff with the horsehair brush and you're ready to ride.

Going through this whole process 1~2 times a year is likely all that your leather will require, but we recommend giving it a light coating of Leather Oil every week or so during the riding season to help maintain moisture and hydration.

This is a guided tutorial where we'll show you how to care for your leather couch, sofa, or bench with Otter Wax Leather Oil. Keep new leather looking great and revive older leathers by applying every 4~6 months or more depending on use and conditions. Application is quick, easy, and mess-free.

This is the Luca Bench from our friends at Poly & Bark. It’s upholstered in cognac tanned, full-grain aniline leather and our Oil will help it last a lifetime. Otter Wax Leather Oil is safe to use on all types and colors of leather because our products never contain synthetic dyes, chemicals, or petroleum.

All you need is a bottle of our Leather Oil, a couple of lint-free cloths, and a small soft-bristle brush.

Before you begin, ensure the surface is free of any dust, crumbs, or pet hair. Dampen a cloth in warm water, ring out excess, and wipe down the entire item. Remember that leather is skin, using the warm water opens leather pores and facilitates better absorption when the oil is applied.

Give the bottle a good shake and always dispense the oil first onto your cloth first and then to the leather.

Dispensing Leather Oil directly to the leather will result in a splotchy uneven finish. If this happens, it's not the end of the world. The leather will even back out over the next several days in dry conditions.

Always test on a small inconspicuous area to make sure you’ll be happy with the results. Temporary darkening may occur and is especially common when treating light color leathers.

Dispense oil onto a dry cloth, then begin applying using a smooth circular motion. Make sure that whenever you apply Leather Oil that you are applying to the entire item.

Use the soft brush for those hard to reach spots like seams and corners.

Small surface scratches from pet claws can be blended in, but it's important to note that scratches that involve any kind of tearing are permanent. If the leather is torn or ripped, your leather will need to be cared for by a professional in your area that specializes in torn leather.

It's important to remember that leather is unique because it ages along with how it's used and cared for. Leather that is nourished and hydrated consistently can be used heavily every day and still last for decades.

It's also important for people to let go of the idea of leather looking the same as when they bought it. Leather holds the memories of the people that use it, so it's important to try and embrace all the uniqueness that well-cared-for leather has to offer.

This particular fabric is really easy to work with for a couple of reasons. First off, since the fabric is woven really tight, it lacks the 'toothiness' of a heavy canvas, which means that it won't take as much wax to fully treat the jacket. Additionally, we're working with a factory-waxed fabric that's already been saturated with wax, so naturally we'll end up using less than we would with an un-waxed fabric.

We only ended up using about half of one of our Large Bars on this jacket, and we applied a pretty thick layer of wax.

You might be wondering, why it's even worth the effort to Otter Wax a jacket that's made from factory-waxed fabric in the first place. Two reasons:

1. It will vastly improve upon the existing waterproofing ability of the fabric. Water is going to bead up and roll right off.

2. The fabric will take on somewhat of waxy-shine that gives it the slight appearance of leather. It's going to look awesome.

Pushing the bar out of the wax paper wrap helps you keep a nice grip on the bar while you're waxing. You'll inevitably get some wax on your hands, but it definitely helps keep the mess factor under control.

Start by applying downward pressure. Not so much that you end up chipping the bar, but hard enough that you create some friction when you begin rubbing the bar back and forth on the fabric. 

Once you've thoroughly waxed a small area of the jacket, smooth it out with your fingers or with the beveled edge of one of our Smoothing Tools. This helps work the wax into the upper layer of the fabric and helps the wax bond to the garment.

Utilize the edges of the bar for hard-to-reach spots like seams and pockets. 

No matter what fabric you're waxing, you'll always end up with the occasional clumps of wax that form when the wax collects around seams.

To help even things out and remove any unsightly clumps of wax, use the sharp corner of the Smoothing Tool to scrape it out and then smooth out the area with the beveled edge.

Once the jacket has been fully waxed, you'll want to hang it in a warm, dry place for about 72 hours to allow excess oils to evaporate off the fabric, leaving the wax bonded to the fibers. But make no mistake, waxing fabric will always, always change the way that a fabric looks and feels. Even after 72 hours, you can expect to feel a slight tack to the jacket. It's perfectly normal, and will continue to fade over time.

If you're concerned about the wax coming off on furniture or car seats, you can simply rub the waxed fabric between your finger. Did any waxes or oils end up on your hands? If so, just use some caution around furniture and car seats and take the jacket off before sitting.

Before we get down to brass tacks, let's all get on the same page about why suede is such a great material worth taking care of. It's important for everyone to understand that leather is an extension of your lifestyle and that it will evolve over time and with use. Like our own skin, leather is porous and malleable. This is why your wallet probably curves to the shape of your back pocket, or why it's darker where you always grab it from the oils on your skin.

Suede is different from smooth leather because it is rubbed by an abrasive wheel to raise a velvet-like nap on its surface. This process breaks down the protective outer layer of skin and exposes the soft leather underneath. It's also what make suede notoriously absorbent and prone to staining. A single raindrop has the ability to leave an unsightly mark on your loafers.

Our foaming Suede Cleaner is different from other cleaners because it is formulated to lift dirt and stains from delicate suede while also conditioning. Alcohol-based cleaners will dehydrate the pores of the leather. While alcohol and chemicals might be good for removing stains, they leave the suede more susceptible to future staining. The combination of Aloe Vera, Vitamin-C, and With Hazel makes cleaning really easy, with the added bonus that you're also leaving the leather hydrated and conditioned.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How To Clean Suede Shoes

Step by step instructions for how to clean suede and nubuck leather with Otter Wax Conditioning Suede Cleaner

All Natural Leather Care Tutorial

Leather will dry out over time, but dries out even faster when dirty. When allowed to dry, dirt and mud will rob your leather of oils and nutrients. Think of leather like a sponge. When it's dry and dehydrated it's going to absorb any moisture that it comes into contact with, resulting in stains and blotches. Even worse is when leather dries out to the point that it begins to crack.

Using our Saddle Soap is the best way to clean your pair of Blundstone Boots without robbing the leather of essential oils and nutrients. Specially formulated using a proprietary blend of all-natural beeswax, castile soap, and hydrating oils, Saddle Soap gently cleans and revives leather. Made without harsh detergents, chemicals, or dyes, this product is safe to use on all types and colors of leather.

In this tutorial, we'll be applying our Heavy Duty Fabric Wax to a Pointer Brand Brown Duck Chore Coat. We love waxing up the canvas that Pointer Brand uses. It's 100% cotton and has a nice, thick texture that allows our wax to be thoroughly incorporated into the top layer of canvas. Since this is a single-layer coat, we've elected to use our bars of Heavy Duty Fabric wax in order to ensure that the wax stays on the outside of the coat. Using something like our Fabric Dressing would likely soak through, so if you wanted to wear this coat with with just a t-shirt underneath, you won't have to worry about your skin being in contact with the waxed fabric. It's not like there's anything wrong with having waxed canvas touching your skin, it's just that it's not really all that comfortable, and can feel kind of clammy against your skin. Save the Fabric Dressing for when you want to wax something with a lining on the inside.

You can expect this project to take about 1-2 hours, and then a couple days of cure time to allow some of the oils to evaporate off the canvas before wearing. A canvas like this one will absorb a fair amount of wax, so don't be surprised if after a few days of hanging it's still somewhat tacky to the touch. This is totally normal and the jacket is wearable, so just put it on and get outside!

Here's what you'll need:

• 2x - Heavy Duty Fabric Wax | Large Bar

• 1x - Wooden Smoothing Tool

• 1x - Heat Gun (Optional)

• 1~2 Hours + Cure Time

This tutorial covers how to apply Otter Wax Leather Salve. This all-natural salve provides our deepest level of conditioning to all types of leather.

Aside from black leather, please note that darkening will occur, as is typical with any kind of treatment. This will fade over time, but it's important to remember that leather in any form is an extension of you. It doesn't matter whether it's a couch, a pair of boots, or a jacket; leather is always going to evolve as it ages. Yes, treating your leather will change how it looks, but our goal is to help leather age well so that it lasts for many years to come.

Before applying Leather Salve, you'll want to make sure that your leather is clean so that the pores of the leather will be able to evenly absorb this treatment (we recommend our Saddle Soap). This treatment can be used on leather in any condition since the leather is only going to absorb as much oil and nutrients as its pores have room for.

Once applied, any additional Salve that can't be absorbed by the leather will create a cloudy layer of wax when the treatment has dried. A cloudy layer of wax indicates that the leather is fully saturated, and once the treatment has dried this can be buffed clear to help seal in oils and nutrients as well as provide a layer of protection.

Our Leather Salve is an excellent way to introduce a large amount of oils and nutrients to the leather. It's a thick paste that once applied, will take a bit longer to soak into the leather. When applied in larger quantities, it also has the additional benefit of providing the extra layer of wax for added protection. The application process also takes a little longer and requires a bit more effort to ensure even coverage. On the other hand, our Leather Oil provides a quick nourishing treatment that also gives the leather a bit more shine, but needs to be applied more frequently because it doesn't get sealed in with the layer of wax like our Leather Salve. If Leather Oil is applied frequently, you might find that your leather rarely needs the deep conditioning that our Leather Salve provides.

During processing, thick cowhides are typically sliced down to three "splits", consisting of top-grain, interior, and underside. While the first two splits are processed into leather that's finished to be all smooth and shiny, the underside split is what's used to make our suede. Just like our own skin, the outer layers of cowhide are tougher than the new skin underneath, which is why these layers are usually used to make firmer, more rigid leathers. In contrast, the underside layer used to make suede has a lot more flexibility, making it ideal for when comfort is a priority. Think of it this way, a black motorcycle jacket made with top-grain leather is usually going to weigh a ton and be really stiff before it's broken in, while a suede jacket is going to be relatively light and flexible right from the start. In addition to all this, suedes have varying degrees of "nap" (the little hairs that stick out from the leather). The length of the nap depends on how it's processed and is usually a good indicator of quality. A really short nap is going to be more expensive, but will have a great 'velvety' appearance.

For this tutorial, we'll be waxing a pair of suede 1883 Wolverine Men's Chukkas.

Applying our Heavy Duty Fabric Wax to suede is relatively straight forward project, however I've thrown in a couple of optional steps depending on what look you want to achieve. From start to finish this project took about 30 minutes, and used up about 3/4 of one of our Regular Size Otter Wax bars.

I'd say the suede has a medium nap, but the top part of the boot seems to be made with slightly higher grade. It doesn't really matter though, since the wax we'll be applying is going to lay all of those leather fibers down. One of the things I really like about finishing suede with our wax is how it will take on the appearance of a smooth patent leather, but there's still some degree of texture left, giving it a much more natural look. Wolverine lists the color as Crepe, but they're almost a medium brown. Once waxed, they will darken up considerably.

What you'll need:

• Otter Wax Regular Bar (1x)

• Cotton or Poly-Blend Hat (1x)

• 45~60 Minutes

The first thing you're going to want to do is check the manufacturers label to learn what fabric your hat is made from. 100% Cotton is best, and a 60/40 Cotton/Poly Blend will also work well. Our wax bonds best with natural fibers, so you'll probably experience some wax pilling or rejection if the hat is constructed from a fabric where a synthetic material comprises all or a majority of the fabric.

The hat we're using for this project is from our collaboration with Coal Headwear, the Otter Wax Richmond SE. The hat is your standard 5-panel camp hat with a leather strapback and is 100% Cotton, making it perfect for waxing. The canvas itself is relatively light-weight with a pretty tight weave. This means that it will require less wax than a heavier canvas, but also might require more frequent touch-ups to maintain the waterproofing capabilities.

We're using the Richmond SE, but keep in mind that you can do this with virtually any hat, old or new. Just make sure that before waxing the canvas is free of any dirt, dust, or debris that may get sealed in when the wax is applied. You might need to give it a wash, but usually a lint roller will do the trick.

Ready. Set. Let's Wax.

Step 1: Start with the bill of your hat. This will be the easiest part to wax and will help give you a good idea for how the fabric will look once it's been treated. Use some elbow grease to apply pressure and rub the bar back and forth to create a little friction heat.

Step 2: You're getting there, but if the fabric looks like this, you've still got some work to do. You can see how it's a little splotchy, but what we want is a uniform appearance. Apply some more pressure and create friction to really help work the wax into the fabric.

Step 3: This is what the fabric should look like when fully waxed. Note the uniform appearance. You can also see how wax has penetrated into the threading.  When the hat gets wet, this is most likely where water will be able to penetrate. Making sure these little needle holes are coated with wax is going to offer great protection and is exactly how you want it to look. At this point, don't worry too much about the wax accumulating in the seams. When you're finished you can just scrape the excess wax out with a toothpick.

Step 4: As the wax slowly begins to heat up by way of friction, you'll notice that you can start making longer strokes with the bar. Make sure you're using the edges of the bar to get into the creases and other hard to reach areas.

Step 5: Even if you've done this a million times, after the first coat of wax you'll probably notice that there are still some parts where it didn't spread out evenly. Use your fingers to smooth the wax around and really work it into the fabric until everything looks even.

Step 6: Ok, now for the hard part. This hat doesn't have a lot of structure to it, so it's going to be a little difficult to get it flat enough so that you can wax a large area. Start using shorter strokes and just focus on waxing about 2" section. Once that area is fully waxed, move onto the next. In this picture, I'm using one hand on the inside of the hat to hold the fabric taut and create that small waxing surface.

Step 7: Here's a tip to make this process a little easier. Find a smooth bowl that fits snugly inside the hat. This will give you a nice hard surface that will help prevent the wax from bunching up the fabric* when being applied. *More on this later.

Step 8: Continue working the wax into the fabric one section at a time. Make sure that all of the seams are throughly waxed. Not only will this help to waterproof, but it also helps to protect the thread from fraying over time and will extend the lifespan of the hat.

Step 9: If the hat starts to slide around the bowl, hold it firmly in place while you complete each section.

Step 10: This photo shows some of the bunching that was mentioned earlier. This happens primarily when attempting to use long strokes on a lighter-weight fabric without a lot of rigidity. Sometimes this can be fixed by smoothing the wax into the creases with your fingers, and other times you may have to go over these areas with the bar again to make sure the wax creates a uniform seal. When fully waxed, reapply as often as necessary or desired. It's perfectly fine to apply more wax directly onto previously treated fabric.

Once the hat is fully waxed, you'll probably notice that it still feels slightly tacky to the touch. Of course it is, you just rubbed wax all over it. If this doesn't bother you, you can absolutely wear it immediately, but we typically suggest allowing the wax to "cure" for about 48~72 hours in a warm and dry place to allow the wax to bond with the fibers. This is really a rough estimate on time since there are all sorts of conditions that could lengthen the amount of time it takes for the oils to evaporate off. If it's cold and humid, you can expect it to take a little bit longer to feel dry to the touch.

When it comes to cleaning a waxed hat (or any waxed fabric for that matter), remember that washing or drycleaning is completely out of the question. The agitation from washing and the chemicals from drycleaning will break down all the wax that you just applied. Instead, treat small stains or splotches with a soft bristle brush and some of our Canvas Cleaner. Spot cleaning may still result in losing some wax, but once it's dry you simply reapply some more wax to that spot.

If you start to notice that the inside of your hat smells a little funky or starts to feel a little sticky, all you have to do is spray the inside with Odor Eliminator. Odor and stickiness is caused by bacteria living off the moisture that can't escape. Our Odor Eliminator is comprised of cultures of living enzymes that will actually digest the bad bacteria and eliminate the problem rather than just cover it up with fragrance.

Ready to try it yourself? Just click on the picture below to head over to our shop where you can get yourself a bar and start waxing!

We all know how expensive a pair of leather boots or shoes can be, so with rainy weather fast approaching we wanted to pass along some tips to help you protect your investment. Remember that leather is skin, but without a system to replenish natural oils, the leather will dry out like a sponge. Otter Wax Leather Care products provide continuous hydration, keeping the leather plumped up and resistant to water and staining.

Before conditioning leather, it's always best to start with a clean slate. Dirt, dust, and debris can clog the pores of the leather and prevent conditioning treatments from being absorbed evenly. Our Saddle Soap is made from a base of Beeswax and Castile Soap and provides a deep clean without utilizing harsh detergents or chemicals which can cause leather to dry out and break down over time.

When leather gets dry, it's going to absorb anything it comes into contact with, resulting in water, mud, and salt marks that can leave the leather permanently stained. Our Leather Salve utilizes natural waxes, butters, and oils to quickly and evenly reintroduce vital oils and nutrients to the leather. When the Salve has been absorbed, a thin layer of white wax will form on the surface. Use a horsehair brush or soft cloth to buff until transparent. This thin layer of wax acts as a protective barrier against the elements, but also helps to seal in the oils and nutrients absorbed by the leather.

Our Leather Oil is the most versatile product from our Leather Care line. It's a fantastic way to add a bit of natural shine to leather, but it also functions as a quick and easy way to maintain continual hydration and extend the amount of time between full conditioning treatments. Made from a base of safflower and vitamin-E oil, this treatment is rich in oleic acids that are vital to maintaining healthy skin. Simply pour a few drops onto a soft cloth, wipe onto leather, and you're done!

If your goal is to completely seal leather with a heavy-duty layer of waterproofing, a quick application of our Boot Wax what will do the trick. A thick blend of natural beeswax and lanolin protects leather and is also a great way to make sure all the seams are completely sealed. Before launching a new ship, captains used to coat their propellers with lanolin to prevent barnacles from latching on. One coating would last for the lifetime of the ship, and now we utilize it to help make your boots last a lifetime.