Our Awesome Middle-Aged Adventure .... to Panama and Beyond!

Street Art - Panama Style

2012-03-25T10:40:00.001-05:00

As an artist, my eye is always drawn to those expressions of light and color created by others. And, if it is readily available (as opposed to being behind the doors of a museum or gallery), all the better. This is why I have become a "street art junkie!" The discovery of art in unexpected places is a delightful treat to me, so I was thrilled to wander the art filled streets of Casco Viejo (the old quarter of Panama City, also known as San Felipe and Casco Antiguo). We actually have visited "the Casco" a number of times since arriving in Panama, as we can't seem to get enough of the quirky streets, ruins in various stages of restoration, unparalleled people-watching and mojitos at Vieja Havana. See this post from January, 2012, which describes our first impressions of the Casco.

Street artists are a rare and wonderful breed - creating just for the joy of it (usually), knowing that their art might be of a transient nature if the owner of the building doesn't see the value of the piece. Sometimes the property owner happily offers up his enticingly blank canvas of a wall for adorning, and the piece has a legitimate "home." It is often those works that fall into the former category that are the most exhilarating, just because of the illicit nature of their being.

Whatever the story may be, I enjoy photographing these works that might be whitewashed over tomorrow so that I can enjoy them in the future. I am sharing them with our readers in hopes that you will enjoy them as well, and if you would like to know where exactly in Casco Viejo they are/were located, see the captions.

And, please, fellow street art aficionados of Panama City, do share your own discoveries so I can hunt those down too!

I call these the "Pollera Ladies," as they are depicted in traditional Panamanian pollera dresses. This series is found on Avenue A, near Calle 12 or 13 Oeste (just as you get into the "less dicey part" of Avenue A).

There are 3 Pollera Ladies, and they appear to be having an animated conversation.

Another Pollera Lady, just up the block from the 3 "close-ups." This one shows the full ensemble.

This one is also on Avenue A. I'm not sure if the red splotches were originally part of the piece or added later, but they look like gunshot wounds, which I believe enhances it.

This one is obviously a stencil, and there are several of them around the side streets of the Plaza de la Catedral. I just love the intense look on this guy's face, and with his one good eye!

At a construction site of Plaza de la Catedral, you will find this magnificent Peter Max-ish fish.

An event that occurred last year - but still an awesome graphic, and it's DALI's face!

Near a construction site off Plaza Simon Bolivar... the same artist who did the Pollera Ladies has graced the side of a dumpster with these zaftig mermaids.

On the sidewalk outside of the school at Plaza Simon Bolivar, there are all sorts of creatures etched into the concrete. I love this one, as it reminds me of my favorite riddle: What did the snail say when he rode on the snail's back? Give up? The snail said, "Wheeeeeeeee!"

In Plaza Simon Bolivar, a leg grows out of a planter. You can ponder this dangling limb while enjoying an espresso or wine at a cafe on the square. Incidentally, you will be about a block from the President's house, and a great view across the bay, so photo ops abound.

And finally... here is a piece that exemplifies the old art school saying, "Less is More..."

I hope you enjoyed this virtual tour of the street art of Casco Viejo. If you happen to find yourself there, be sure to stop at Vieja Havana Bar, off the Plaza Simon Bolivar, have a refreshing mojito and enjoy the eclectic collection of paintings and photos on the walls. The Cuban music might even get you on your feet for some salsa dancing!

Holi Hai! Phagwa -- Suriname Style!!

2012-03-11T18:53:00.000-05:00

Inquisitive little girl celebrating Holi in Suriname.

One of the highlights of our Suriname trip was the fact that we were able to celebrate the Hindu Holi festival ("the Festival of Colors") with the Surinamese people and other travelers. Holi (or "Phagwa"), a spring festival, is celebrated at the end of the winter season on the last full moon day of the lunar month Phalguna (February/March), (Phalgun Purnima), which usually falls in the later part of February or March. Celebrations typically last for 2 days, and a major activity on the main day ("Dhuli") is the throwing of scented, colored powders on each other.

It might confuse the reader as to why we would be in a South American country, where Dutch is the official language, celebrating a Hindu holiday. This is one of the things that makes Suriname so unique! Due to the abolishment of slavery, workers were needed in the New World...this brought indentured servants from India, Indonesia, China and many other lands. Those immigrants, along with former slaves ("maroons"), joined the indigenous Amazonian Indian tribes and Dutch to make up the melting pot of Suriname. Dhuli is a national holiday, with all businesses closing, and everyone joins in the fun.

Here is what Wikipedia has to say about Holi:

"One of Holi’s biggest customs is the loosening strictness of social structures, which normally include age, sex, status, and caste. Holi closes the wide gaps between social classes and brings Hindus together. Together, the rich and poor, women and men, enjoy each other’s presence on this joyous day. Additionally, Holi lowers the strictness of social norms. No one expects polite behavior; as a result, the atmosphere is filled with excitement and joy.

Every year, thousands of Hindus participate in the festival Holi. The festival has many purposes. First and foremost, it celebrates the beginning of the new season, spring. It also has a religious purpose, commemorating many events that are present in Hindu mythology. Although it is the least religious holiday, it is probably one of the most exhilarating ones in existence. During this event, participants hold a bonfire, throw colored powder at each other, and celebrate wildly.

Originally, it was a festival that commemorated good harvests and the fertile land. In addition to celebrating the coming of spring, Holi has even greater purposes. Hindus believe it is a time of enjoying spring's abundant colors and saying farewell to winter. Furthermore, Holi celebrates many religious myths and legends."

To prepare for our observation of the Phagwa festivities, we first had to find out where the parties would be held. You won't find them at the Hindu temples -- those are sacred places, where the Holi revelry would be inappropriate. In speaking with an Indian lady and perusing the local newspaper, we learned that the biggest party in town was being hosted by Parbo Bier, and would be held at Flamboyant Park. So, with some Phagwa powder and baby wipes in hand, we set off by taxi to the site. (Note: we had been advised that if we were too much of "a mess" after the party, taxi drivers might refuse to bring us back to our hotel. We prepared for this by buying some cheap rain ponchos!)

Upon our arrival at the event (admission: Free!), we were anointed with Phagwa powder by gate attendants, who gave us each a container of the color of our choice. Blue for Tom, yellow for me, to add to the pink we had already brought. We watched as large tanker trucks pumped water into inflatable swimming pools, to which various colored dyes were then added. A large number of water guns were stacked up, and they were quickly filled with colored water and put to use by merry makers young and old!

For those who preferred to stay dry, being sprinkled with the colored powders by strangers and listening to music was the order of the day. There was, of course, Parbo Bier and Coca-Cola for sale, and Indian food (we had bami goreng - Indonesian stir fried noodles - and spicy chicken), and more than one group of revelers managed to smuggle in bottles of the hard liquor of their choice. Tom and I "made the rounds", meeting all sorts of people, including Surinamese of every origin, Dutch students, U.S. Coast Guard officers who just happened to be in town, young, old and in-between.

By the end of the day, we were blue, pink, green, yellow and orange...and smiling from ear to ear. And to top it off, we were able to find a taxi willing to take us back to town!

Music is a major part of the Phagwa Party


Having fun with Phagwa powder (gulal) and water!

There's always a yellow one in the group!

How can you keep a straight face when your hair is blue?

We met these U.S. Coast Guard officers visiting Suriname and ready for the festivities.

Young artist hard at work.

The dance floor is the place to be.


Thrilled to be here!


How we looked by the end of the day!!

Rainforest Fun in Suriname

2012-03-07T09:21:00.001-06:00

Pretty parrot at Johan Margaretha Plantage.

Still in steamy Suriname, enjoying the many sights, sounds and tastes of this amazing place....

A few days ago, we took a day trip from Paramaribo up to Leonsberg (near the Atlantic coast) and boarded a small boat that brought us up the Suriname River to where it meets the Commewijne River, and then both rivers merge with the Atlantic Ocean. Our boat was filled with Dutch tourists on a quest to see the pink dolphins who frequent the area, and indeed, we spotted quite a few of the beautiful creatures as they jumped out of the water, seemingly to entertain us. The guide from Waterproof Tours, Nalini, was an exceptional host for all aboard, serving wine, beer, rum and other drinks, and snacks, as we left the dolphins for the next stop.

Being out on the water in Suriname is a lovely experience; however, where the rivers meet the sea, the water is brown and brackish, so visibility into the water is nil. There is always a gentle breeze to counteract the humidity, and the green of the jungle shoreline has a calming effect.

After a tranquil trip down the Commewijne, our boat docked at the plantage ("Plantation") Johan Margaretha- really just a tiny settlement on the river. Tom and I went for a walk around the main street (a dirt track), where we met some smiling children, a friendly baby goat, a squirrel monkey and a preening parrot. The only vehicles in the village were motorbikes and one small pick up truck, so it is a peaceful place indeed.

We were sorry to leave the plantage, but we were hoping to view a nice sunset out on the water, so we bid farewell to Johan Margaretha. Alas, there would be no magnificent sunset for us this time, but instead we had delightful conversations with the other passengers on the boat (almost all Dutch people speak excellent English), and a few more drinks!

Here are some photos from our day trip - hope you enjoy them!

From the pier at Leonsberg, Suriname.


Abundant coconuts.

A river boat waits for passengers.

Village girls share a bike.

Tom is meeting a baby goat, while the squirrel monkey vies for attention.

My new friend, a baby goat.

Squirmy baby wants to play with the parrot!

Another day on the river comes to an end.

Suriname Food Porn!!

2012-03-04T13:17:00.000-06:00

For those who are not familiar with Suriname, it is a food lover's paradise - for taste, variety and price. Of course Suriname boasts lush rainforests, exotic wildlife and cultural delights...however, for what many people consider to be an under-developed third world nation, the food choices and quality are mind-boggling.

When you think about how Suriname came to be, with so many cultures throwing their contributions into the proverbial melting pot, it's easy to understand the variety. People from Java, China, India, Holland, Africa came to this place on the northeast coast of South America that was already inhabited by indigenous Amer-Indians, bringing oriental spices and cooking methods to combine with local foods. What has resulted is "Surinamese Food", and while we are by no means experts, we are having a great time discovering it!

Chicken satay at Torarica Hotel; 3 skewers of meat marinated in delicious peanut sauce, with some bread to soak up the excess. A bit of curried cabbage slaw and prawn crackers complete the meal.

Since arriving in Suriname, we have become enamored with satay! This dish, which is believed to have originated in Indonesia, is offered in many restaurants here, and is typically served with combinations of prawn crackers, pickled onions or curried cabbage slaw, and a lovely lightly spicy mayonnaise. Some places get fancy and give you roasted potatoes and a bit of salad, and the little basic "mom and pop" shop will give you just 3 skewers of delicious chicken for around SRD 7.00 (about $2.50 USD).

Zus & Zo's version..the works!

One of the finest restaurants in Paramaribo is De Waag, which is located in the old weigh house right on the river. The building itself is historic and intriguing, as is the artwork it holds. When we visited, I enjoyed a chicken tagliatelle dish with mushrooms, olives and a delicious sun-dried tomato cream sauce.

It's rare that I can finish a pasta dish this size, but I made an exception in this case!

Also at De Waag, which bills itself as an "Italian" restaurant, ribs are on offer. Tom went for these (there are veggies underneath!), and even had some to spare which he shared with an Australian mining exec named Steve who was at the next table:

Many of the dishes served in Suriname are stir-fried, like this combination of beans, almonds, chicken and mushrooms over rice from Zus & Zo Cafe. Very healthy, and delicious!

If you come to Suriname and find yourself overwhelmed by the exotic food options, or just miss home, you can find Burger King and McDonald's here in Paramaribo.The menu is very similar, but veggie burgers, wraps and more chicken selections are available here to cater to the local tastes.

This is by no means the end of the "food porn" that will come from this blog, as we have still not tried Indian roti or any local Chinese fare. We will also be visiting the famous Central Market and looking at the fruits, veggies, spices, fish and other goodies there. But now, it's time to head out to a cafe for an espresso!

Suriname!!

2012-03-02T09:52:00.004-06:00

Paramaribo, Suriname

For the next few weeks, we are taking a break from Panama to explore the South American nation of Suriname. This isn't a place that is included in the typical backpackers' itinerary, other than the Dutch, who travel to the country in large numbers. Since we arrived in Suriname a few days ago, we haven't met a single fellow American. No Brits or Canadians either - thus far - but we have no doubt that we will by the end of this trip!

Along the north coast of South America, Suriname is a small but ethnically diverse country. Most people are descendants of African slaves and Indian or Indonesian servants brought over by the Dutch to work in agriculture. Suriname, formerly known as Dutch Guiana, gained independence in 1975. There has been political turmoil for approximately the past 30 years, with the last 5 years bringing relative economic and political stability. Most Surinamers live in the narrow, northern coastal plain, near the capital city of Paramaribo (often abbreviated by Surinamers as "Parbo").

One of the main reasons that we wanted to come to Suriname, apart from it being so far off the "gringo trail," is to see first hand how folks in such an incredibly diverse society can "get along" so well. One of the most famous examples of this is that here in Paramaribo sits the largest mosque in South America, right alongside the Neveh Shalom Synagogue (Hebrew : בית הכנסת נווה שלום‎) which is the only synagogue of the Ashkenazi community in Suriname.

Neveh Shalom Synagogue, with the mosque in the background.

Aside from religious diversity, there is an incredible number of languages spoken in Suriname, with the official one being Dutch. Other languages spoken include several Amerindian languages, several Creole languages, Suriname Javanese and Sarnami Hindustani. Most people also speak English, and speak it well. We met some young people who explained that all school children must learn English AND Spanish before graduating. The primary creole language is Sranan Tongo, and it is language of "the street".

Access to the interior rain forest and forest people is limited, but there are guided tours into the interior. Tom and I will either visit an indigenous Indian village, or a Marroon village (The Marroons are former slaves who escaped from the plantations and formed their own communities in the rainforest.). For the past few days, we have been exploring Parbo, which has street after street of beautifully restored colonial Dutch buildings (and some still in progress of restoration). The historic inner city area of Parbo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2002, and we are currently staying in a historic building (the Alberto Alberga guesthouse on Lim-A-Postraat. If you forget the fact that there is no hot water or air conditioning here (which, sadly, Tom is unable to..!), it is a very charming place! With temperatures hovering at about 85 degrees Farenheit during the day, and not much cooler in the evening, we are truly appreciating the presence of the small swimming pool here.

For the rest of this series of posts about Suriname, we will report on the food (it is varied and it is excellent!), the culture and the sights. Just to give our readers an idea as to where in the world we are, below are some maps.

As shown by the purple marker on the map below, Paramaribo, Suriname is located on the northern coast of South America:

Here is a map showing Suriname nestled in between Guyana and French Guiana, just north of Brazil:

Stay tuned for more about this fascinating place!!

The Rich Life of Panamanian Children

2012-02-24T21:00:00.001-06:00

Detail of a mural in progress on the side of a grocery store in El Valle de Anton, Panama

Who truly is "rich?" Who is "better off?" Do fancy toys, video games, plasma TVs and other "necessities" of modern childhood really make for well-adjusted, truly happy kids?

The children in our small mountain town in Panama don't have a movie theatre, Best Buy store or McDonald's. They do have strong family ties, a sense of community, simple, abundant and fresh food, and the natural world with its fresh air and sunshine. They have neighbors who know their names and look out for them if mom is not around (and even if she is). They have big brothers and sisters who hold their hands and walk them to school, or let them ride side-saddle with them on their bikes. They have moms and dads that play baseball or soccer with them in the yard.

The children in our town have a foundation of faith, and worship in tiny, open-air chapels, the big Catholic Church on the main street, in the high school, houses... even an old candy factory.

Families go out to dinner, lay around on patios and in hammocks on a Saturday afternoon, take shopping trips to town in buses... well, you get the idea. Family means everything here.

Is life perfect? Of course not. Many of the parents work at jobs that pay only $10 per day (you read it right - per DAY!), and they have bills to pay, like rent, water and propane. Most of them have cell phones - although those devices are not as ubiquitous as they are in other places, Panamanians are catching up quickly. The big news in Panama this week has been that it is "Regreso a Clases" time ("Back to School"), and like parents all over the world, this means extra expenses for school supplies. A newspaper article that I read in today's Dia a Dia (a newspaper that resembles the New York Post) quoted parent after parent lamenting how the cost of uniforms, books, paper and all of the other "utiles escolares" were more expensive than last year.

Tom and I love kids. Ours are now in college, and it's no secret that not long ago, I had a bit of an "empty nest" crisis. I'm happy to say that I did get over it, and that's when Tom and I decided to embrace our empty nester-hood (which, according to more experienced friends, might be short-lived as the birds often return to the nest) and have this adventure. So, we tend to coo over babies, try out our pathetic Spanish skills on little kids, and have conversations with teenagers about Selena Gomez and the Lone Ranger. We have been known to buy treats at the kiosk at La Pintada for as many kids as happened to be there at a given time. Tom plays peek-a-boo with babies on buses and I take way too many pictures of them.

Here are some pictures that we think show the rich and happy life that we see children living, every day, all around us. We hope you enjoy them.

We came upon this giggling group of swimmers in a pool under a waterfall on one of our mountain hikes. When they saw us, they showed off their cannon ball skills.

Mother and sons on the way to do some shopping. Sometimes buses are crowded, but they don't mind sitting 3 to a seat!

Adorable little girl on the local bus.

Taking a break from playing to enjoy some shade and a snack.

Best friends play after church.

These talented acrobats were more than willing to show us their skills!

This little guy has to sit out and just watch for now, but soon he will be big enough to join the fun.

The best treat in town - shaved ice, with your choice of flavored syrup, and cream added if you want (you want!). 50 cents each - a great deal. And look at the muscles on this lady!


It's not common, but some folks still get around on horseback around here, including the kids!

A chance meeting at a Panama beach leads to "Six Minutes To Freedom"

2012-02-20T16:30:00.002-06:00

While enjoying a day at the beach (Santa Clara) recently, Tom and I met a young American family. The Mom, Ingrid, was tending to baby Maren, while Dad (Erik) was speaking with the housekeeper at his nearby hotel room. We overheard this young man from Chicago speaking excellent Spanish, so we asked him how he came to be fluent.

In a casual way, Erik told us that he had been born and raised in Panama, but had be forced to flee at the age of 12 with his family because of his father's involvement in the undermining of General Manuel Noriega's notoriously oppressive regime. Well, this caught our interest, to say the least! In the course of further conversation, Erik told us about his father, Kurt Muse, and that a book had been written about the family's ordeal, his rescue and how it was interwoven with the overthrow of Noriega in 1989.

After saying our goodbyes to the Muses, Tom and I decided that we needed to read this book, so we ordered it for our Kindle 3G right away, with me winning dibs on the first read! Once I had finished the book, which I found difficult to put down, I knew that I should share my review with our followers.

Even for those who don't have much interest in Panama, or its history and politics, this is still a fascinating story. For those who want to visit or live in Panama (or who live here now), reading the book will definitely give some perspective as to how far the country has come in terms of personal liberty. It's hard to image that such an oppressive police state existed here as recently as 1989; in 2012, people are free to raise families, build businesses, live their lives, without the fear of imprisonment and torture because they may have criticized the government.

The strong faith of the entire Muse family and their friends, as demonstrated throughout the course of their escape from Noriega's thugs, give an added depth to the story. The quiet dignity of Kurt Muse as he endures months of interrogation, psychological torture and confinement in the notorious Modelo prison is as inspiring as his unwavering faith. I must say that I really enjoyed this book, and it has piqued my interest in learning more about Panamanian history and politics.

If you would like to check it out, the book can be ordered, in Kindle format or "old school style", by clicking the book title in Amazon box below. Enjoy!!

Hiking La India Dormida...or How I Learned to Love My Ample Backside

2012-02-18T12:32:00.001-06:00


La India Dormida - The Sleeping Indian Girl

The Legend of La India Dormida goes like this:

Flor del Aire was the daughter of Urraca, the most successful Chief in Panama fighting against the Conquistadores. It was her misfortune to fall in love with one of the Spanish soldiers. Yavari, one of the strongest fighters of her tribe, vied for her affection. When she did not return his love, in despair, he jumped to his death from a mountain top before the Princess' eyes. In sorrow, Princess Flor del Aire left her home and never saw the Spaniard again.

She crossed mountains and valleys bitterly weeping over her fate. Above the beaches of the Caribbean, she fell dead, looking back at the beloved mountains where she had been born. The mountains were so touched by this sad love story they decided to form the shape of the Princess, and that is how the India Dormida arose.

From the El Valle de Anton website

Based on Presbitero José Noto, De Historia de El Valle de Anton
Borrowed by El Rugidor Vallero

Besides being the subject of this evocative legend, the mountain that looms over El Valle is a popular hiking destination for residents and day-trippers. For the indigenous populations, however, the trails that criss-cross the mountain are vital routes between homes and jobs, the market, school and church.

Tom and I decided one morning that we would head up to an area of town known as La Pintada, home to the Petroglyphs, and one of the trail heads for the hike to the top of La India. Our goal was NOT to climb the mountain - it didn't even cross our minds - but merely to go and check out the mysterious drawings on the rocks. I mention this fact in the hopes that you will cut us some slack when I also mention that 1.) we didn't bring any water, and 2.) I was wearing my Keen hiking SANDALS and not my brand new Keen hiking BOOTS. Tom was wearing his Keen boots, prepared man that he is. And actual hiking socks!

Oh yes... and I was carrying a purse. With both of my Nikon cameras in it, but still... a purse.

Upon arriving at the site (take the "Dona Lucy" bus from downtown El Valle - it says, "La Pintada - Capirita" on the front), we paid our entrance fee. Being "Extranjeros" - foreigners - and not eligible for a discount for being neither jubilados (retirees) nor ninos (children), we paid the highest possible fee of $1.25 each. After a leisurely walk up the sloped sidewalk and over a lovely swimming hole occupied by frolicking local children, we quickly arrived at the enormous rock upon which the petroglyphs appear. While no one really knows who made these drawings or what they represent, there are theories that these are maps of caves, water sources and other landmarks of the area. It's fun to look at the petroglyphs and imagine what kind of people put them there so very long ago.

What you pay at the entrance depends on who you are, where you come from and how old you are...

Petroglyphs... no one is really sure who made these drawings...

or what they mean.

While we were viewing the petroglyphs, our little day trip began to get interesting. An Indian man of about 55 years old, in rubber boots, appeared next to us and began speaking to us in Spanish. We got the basic idea that he wanted to show us some waterfalls up the trail, and even though we knew this probably meant that we were hiring a guide, we nevertheless followed him.

In his rubber boots, the man was way ahead of us in moments and looked back at us to see if we were still following him. As we trudged up the steep trail, huffing and sweating, our guide was leaping along as if the terrain was flat. Whereas we had spent years sitting at desks working on computers, he had been walking up and down this mountain. Tom was having an easier time than I was, having been in better shape to begin with.

We soon arrived at a lovely waterfall and pool, and thought, "Ok, this wasn't so bad, and now we can head back to town for lunch"... but our guide said that just 15 minutes up the trail was another, even more impressive waterfall. "Ok, vamanos," we said and continued our climb. By now, it was obvious that we were going to try to make it all the way to the top.

Tom at a waterfall at the base of the mountain.

So peaceful.

Looking happy before the climb got gnarly!

With our guide ahead of us, we climbed higher and higher, hearing the refreshing sound of falling water as we neared several waterfalls, feeling the mountain breezes, and stopping frequently so I could catch my breath! By now, Tom was carrying my purse (in a very heroic, manly way!), and as we were passed numerous times by old men with loads of vegetables, building materials and firewood, I began to wonder if it wasn't a good time to admit defeat and head back down the mountain. Just then, we looked up to see an elderly, yet very fit, American woman coming down the trail. She told us that it was still about 45 minutes hike to the top, and yes, it was worth it! Then came the clincher... she said the was well over 60, and though the remaining climb was steep and difficult, she had made it. So, it was officially on. We were going to the top, and that was it.

70 year old men go up and down all day long with loads of wood, vegetables...

pipes... anything and everything they need to transport.

A short time later, we came to another rock with petroglyphs on it, which marked the end of the portion of the hike that the guide would accompany us. He explained that we should continue on the trail, and with the blue sky looking close, it seemed that the rest of the hike would be easy. We gave him three and a half balboas (he wanted five), and then continued up the trail, stopping here and there to rest at clear mountain streams and take photographs.

Interesting fungus on a tree.

Vines of flowers climb up the trees and cover the forest floor.

We soon saw a sign up in a tree, and we knew we were getting close to the top. After some clambering over steep parts of the trail, slippery with loose stones, we could see through the trees that there was a little house way up on the top of the mountain.

After hiking for about an hour, we saw this sign welcoming us to La India Dormida. From here, it was another 40 minutes to the top.

Seemingly out of nowhere, this immaculately tended garden appeared on the side of the trail. On the other side of the trail, we saw a couple cutting and burning brush to clear more gardening space. We called to them to ask if we were still on the trail, and hadn't somehow stumbled on their private property. After some back and forth conversation in Spanglish, Tom and I were invited up to la casa by the Lady of the Mountain.

Neat rows of vegetables and herbs grace the mountain top.

As we walked past a shed and chicken coop, the incredible view of El Valle opened up before us. The modest house looked out on a view that made us speechless. As we admired the scene, curious puppies ran over to greet us, and our hostess offered us each a cup of MUCH-needed water from her well, along with 2 large round lemons from her tree. After admiring the many flowers in the garden and thanking our hostess for her kindness, Tom and I set off for the trail back down the mountain.

Our hostess -- this "India" sure wasn't sleeping when we met her!

The view from La India's porch.

One of many chickens who lives on the mountain top.

I had never seen a poinsettia growing in the wild! What a delight to see this in La India's garden.

Bananas almost ready for market... somebody is going to have to carry these down the mountain!

Feeling refreshed and triumphant, we set off down the trail. Almost immediately we (mostly me, in my sandals) realized that the trail that was steep and slippery on the way up, could present the danger of falling on the way down. Always concerned about falling the wrong way and injuring my "bad" knee, I perfected the art of falling on my backside after 2 or 3 slips. I spent the remainder of the trip down the mountain giving silent thanks to Chick-Fil-A and Jersey Mike's Subs for helping to provide the padding that made my falls less painful! As we approached the trail head, we passed swimming holes filled with laughing, splashing children and women going back and forth to the market.

We don't know if we'll will hike up this La India Dormida trail again, but we will certainly seek out other mountain trails near El Valle to explore. Our hope is that we can one day be at least half as fit as the people who use the mountain trails on a regular basis. And, on subsequent hikes, I will be sure to wear my hiking boots and Tom will carry plenty of water..!

What We Miss About "Home" - Franklin, TN - Parte Dos!!

2012-02-15T12:12:00.077-06:00

Rusty at the Factory

Today, February 15th, marks the 1 month anniversary of the start of Our Awesome Middle-Aged Adventure... or at least the Panama part of it (We actually consider the real beginning to be over a year ago, when we vowed to change our lives.). Back in December, 2011, we wrote a post about what we thought we would miss about Franklin, TN, our home in the States. If you are new to this blog, see: our original "what we'll miss about home" post .

As it turns out, we do fondly remember and long for the people, places and things we wrote about back in December. While we don't consider ourselves to be "homesick," let's face it... there are certain things that you can't bring with you, and these particular people, places and things come to mind today.

History, charm and authenticity... these are characteristics of Franklin that we love. A great example of this is how the old stove factory, left derelict and abandoned for many years, was transformed into The Factory. The Factory has shops, restaurants and meeting spaces for churches, music lessons, karate, etc. Additionally, the parking lot is where the Farmers' Market is held every Saturday. This sculpture ("Rusty") stands tall and proud at one of the entrances, and he is made of all sorts of cast off metal gizmos that we believe were gathered here during the transformation of the building. Rusty is arriving for work at the factory, all ready for the day. And he even brought his lunchbox..!

Here's a full-length view of Rusty - He's huge!

Embarking on an adventure always means that new people will come into your life in surprising and wonderful ways! Back in September, 2011, Tom and I had to move out of our little duplex in Franklin, and with only 4 months remaining until our exodus to Panama! This meant that leasing a new place in Franklin would be out of the question, so Tom and I did something that we never considered doing: we became roommates with a person that we didn't previously know. It could have only been the work of God that brought us together with Stacey Carden, who had just decided that her 3 bedroom home was just a little too big for one person! As soon as we learned that we had to move out of our place, we got online and checked Craigslist. Lo and behold, Stacey had just placed her ad for a room for rent. We wrote to Stacey and asked her if she would consider renting the room to a couple of crazy people who had sold almost all of their possessions and were planning to go off traveling. Being the easy-going free spirit that she is, Stacey said, "come on over!"

It turned out that we all got along famously - 3 "mature" people who love to eat, swap stories and laugh - and those 4 months sped by. It made us all say repeatedly, "Why did we not do this months ago?." Besides allowing Tom and me to save a lot of money for our trip, and give Stacey some good income on her unused space, it was just FUN. As we moved into Stacey's place with just the stuff we were planning to bring with us on our trip (half of which eventually ended up at Goodwill anyway), it really brought home the fact that we were actually DOING THIS.

While in residence at Stacey's House of the Wayfaring Travelers, we got to be the grateful recipients of our host's selfless hospitality: not the least of which are her amazing cooking skills. Stacey makes the best pot roast in the world. Many folks who know her will agree. And it's not just the pot roast. Fried chicken, mashed potatoes, corn casserole...the list goes on and on. And she's not shy about using the butter! And being the outgoing soul that she is, and one of nine kids (or is it ten? I lose count), there are always friends and family around her. We were fortunate to get to know Ann, Stacey's delightful Scottish mom, as well as her good buddy Linda, and when we mixed our kids into the group, it was always a party. When we left Stacey's house on January 14th, there were hugs and tears and we will always have love and gratitude in our hearts for this very special lady!

Two of the classiest ladies in Franklin: Stacey and Ann Carden.

By now everyone in our orb knows that I am a great lover of espresso, and Starbucks is my "habit." I'm not being paid to shill for Starbucks, and yes, I realize that other places sell espresso. But my Starbucks experience has always been about the people who work there as much as the coffee. For some reason, Starbucks seems to attract employees who are typically cooler, funner and nicer than other places. Or, as Tom theorizes, it might just be me, since I tend to talk to everyone. Whatever IT is, the point is that some of my dearest friends work at the Cool Springs Starbucks and Jesse is one of them! No matter how bad his day might be going, you would never know it.

Our dear friend and favorite barista, Jesse Estrada.

Another great thing about Franklin is the Harpeth River. Even though the Harpeth got a little bit "out of hand" a few years ago and flooded part of the town, it is typically a very tame body of water. The river snakes through Franklin, and you can cross over it numerous times as you pass through town. Here in El Valle, the Rio Anton does the same thing, and Tom cracks me up as we walk around town, crossing the "Panamanian Harpeth" over and over.

The Harpeth River winds its way through Franklin.

In the months preceding the Adventure, Tom and I worked as much as possible to earn money for our trip. In addition to my "main job," I also worked weekends at a local department store called Stein Mart. Tom increased his hours at his job, so we really did not have much time to spend together during the weekends. Knowing that we would have plenty of time to spend together on our trip made it all worthwhile (although the waking up at 4 am some days for Tom did get old). While we don't miss WORK at all, we do miss some of our former co-workers (Tom sez: "ALL of mine - those kids're good kids!"). During my last week of work at the mortgage company where I was a compliance manager, there was a wonderful goodbye luncheon thrown in my honor by the sweetest co-workers anyone could ever ask for. Thank you, from the bottom of my heart, to Amber, Brian, Clay, Brittany, Stephanie and everyone!

Susan's former colleagues at her going away lunch.

Now, for the greatest "void" we are feeling today - we miss our family! We miss Tom's parents and sister and brother-in-law in Tucson, Arizona and my brother in Albany, New York, and my dearest friend Shari, in Brooklyn. And we miss our kids, Thomas and Alex, like crazy! Both of them are students at the University of TN, and are very busy with classes, jobs and activities, so they probably don't miss us quite as much. We are looking forward to Spring Break when they will visit us here in Panama and we get to act as tour guides in our new home.

Our kids - Thomas and Alex - at UT's Neyland Stadium

Now here's a quick rundown of all of the "other stuff" we miss about Franklin, TN:

Everyone knows by now that Tom and I enjoy good grub. While Panama has fantastic dining options, every now and then we crave a taste of home. The following Franklin restaurants come to mind at present:

The Bunganut Pig. I dream of their perfect hamburger and onion rings, sublime Spring, Summer and Fall evenings on the patio listening to live music, and the fact that their professional wait staff can take your order without needing to write it down (and they get it right 99% of the time!). Tom misses their ribeye steaks, onion rings and the friendly atmosphere of the place. We always felt like friends, rather than customers, every time we showed up.

Jersey Mike's. A regular number 7 on wheat, thankyouverymuch. Mayo AND oil and vinegar. Heaven!

Chick-Fil-A. Spicy Chicken Sandwich. Nothing more needs to be said.

Mellow Mushroom. Kosmic Karma pizza and Capri Salad for me, Funky Q BBQ Chicken pizza for Tom and the cool libations of our choice. A table with a view of the square would be great! After dinner, we'll take a walk down the street to Starbucks and Sweet CeCe's for coffee and dessert.

Shane's Rib Shack. Tom's go-to for down home BBQ ribs and a large sweet tea. I'll have the loaded baked potato. Mmmm mmmm!

Logan's Road House. Another place for delicious ribs. I took Tom here for his first TN meal, and it sure did give the right impression!! I love the blackened tilapia and a nice big sweet potato with butter and cinnamon.

There is a lot more we miss - such as the way people pray before meals and no one looks twice (here in Panama we are a bit of an oddity in restaurants when we say "grace," but that's ok!); the way "strangers" on Main Street start chatting and become friends; the way that a "Kroger Alert" can occur with just the slightest threat of a snowstorm.

So, Hello to everyone in Franklin! You are always in our thoughts and prayers!

Beaching It!! At Playa Santa Clara, Panama

2012-02-11T13:50:00.002-06:00

Playa Santa Clara

We'd heard that, of the beaches of the Pacific coast of Panama, Santa Clara is perhaps the finest. So, we decided on Monday morning that the following day would be the ideal day for a trip to la playa. A quick internet search showed that the choices for accommodations were very limited (and not cheap); we opted to reserve a casita at Las Sirenas (The Mermaids), which looked to be the nicest and best value ($130 per night for a casita that sleeps 4, has a fully stocked kitchen - sans food, of course, and has a lovely patio complete with hammock, steps from the beach!).

To reach Santa Clara from our home in El Valle, we took the one of several buses that would get us "down the mountain" to Las Uvas. This is a small village where the El Valle road meets the Pan-American Highway. We disembarked at Las Uvas, and waited on the northwest corner for a bus going anyplace near Santa Clara. Within minutes, a bus headed for the town of Penonome appeared, and knowing that it would pass Santa Clara, we hopped on. It only took about 10 minutes before we arrived in Santa Clara, where we hailed a taxi to take us to the beach, and Las Sirenas.

Total cost for buses and taxis from El Valle to Las Sirenas: $7. Time to get there: 40 minutes (normally, it would have been a shorter trip, but our bus down the mountain had a soft tire and the driver had to stop several times to use a can of "Fix-A-Flat").

Upon arrival at Las Sirenas, we were greeted by Senor Ines, who explained everything we would need to know, and accepted our credit card payment. (We only absorbed a fraction of what was said, as Senor has no English and our Spanish, is um, under construction!). A quick inspection assured as that our casita more than met our needs, and within moments we were swimsuit-clad and headed to the beach.

Room tip!! Try to book casita number 11, which is steps from the beach. Numbers 6 -10 are also close to the beach, but a little further inland. The hillside casitas (1-5) have amazing views of the ocean, if that's what you prefer, but it's a bit of a walk uphill when you come back from the beach, all tired and sunburnt.

On this glorious Tuesday, the sands were blissfully uncrowded and the quiet was interrupted only occasionally by the sounds of gulls, laughing children, and the roar of speedboats and ATVs. The water temperature was about 75 degrees, which tempted us to stay in longer than we should have (if you and/or your companions are fair-skinned, like Tom is, slather on the 70 SPF!). Las Sirenas has several covered bohios - the shade lets in some sun, but filters much of it - where we retreated for a siesta. (The hammocks at Las Sirenas are world-class siesta locations, a fact to which I can personally attest!)

A word about the undertow at Playa Santa Clara -- it is very strong! Don't swim out too far unless you are practicing for the Olympics.

Just down the beach from Las Sirenas are la playa's only dining and drinking options. Santa Clara Beach Bar and Grill is owned by Jennifer and Warren, 2 charming Canadians, and the bar is well-tended by Tennessee-born Curtis. Desayuno (breakfast) is served all day here, so you can enjoy your veggie omelet or a yummy meat-based dish with a cold Atlas beer if you're so inclined! They also serve chicken, hamburgers and my favorite - corvina in garlic. The bar area is set up with tables for dining, or you can sit out on the patio - it's all open to the sea and air; just a perfect place to wile away the hours. For those who are day-tripping, the bar rents "rancheros" (little bohios) with 2 hammocks for $10!

It is said that the entire country of Panama is "just a small town," where, sooner or later, a person will run into someone they know. We found evidence of this when we had our evening meal at Santa Clara Beach Bar and ran into 3 people we knew from El Valle, as well as vacationing Maine inn owners Terri and Kevin (whom we had met while they were passing through El Valle). [Terri and Kevin, if you read this, please let us know how you enjoyed the rest of your trip!]

Further down the beach is Las Veranderas hotel and its restaurant. We haven't heard anything about the hotel, so we can't recommend it, but the dogs sleeping in the sand outside seemed pretty content! The restaurant is spacious, and surrounded by palm covered shade structures, making this a great spot for escaping that strong Panamanian sun. The breakfast is basic and satisfying; my omelet with a side of fried yucca, and Tom's bistec pichada, were an excellent start to our Wednesday morning.

Although we were sorely tempted to stay at Las Sirenas for another night, we had planned to meet friends in Coronado so we had to depart from this little paradise. Senor Ines gave us a ride to the bus stop, and we were on our way! Our trip to the beach was wonderful, and it won't be our last by any means. But coming back to El Valle, with the coolness, abundance of flowers and "green-ness," made us glad that we have chosen this little town as "home."

We hope you enjoy these photos of Las Sirenas and Playa Santa Clara!

The view of the ocean from the Las Sirenas entrance.

Our patio... the hammock is addicting!

This neat bougainvillea covered tunnel leads to the beach.

The kid in you will make you want to walk through the tunnel over and over....

Las Veranderas

Along with sea gulls, you might even spot hermit crabs skittering along the sand.

View of the beach from the Santa Clara Beach Bar and Grill

Folks enjoying the beach.

El Tominator at sunset with a cold Atlas. Cheers!

Beach dogs... ahhh, what a life!

Sunset stroll.

Peace!

Pan-American Highway Road Trip - Capira to Santa Clara

2012-02-06T21:31:00.003-06:00

This past Sunday, Tom and I were invited to spend the day exploring some sites off the Pan-American Highway between Capira and Santa Clara. Our friends Eric and Debbie, who also live in El Valle, picked us up early in morning for the excursion. Eric and I share a love of photography, and had been planning a "photo safari" so we could practice our hobby. Debbie and Tom, both lovers of sweeping vistas, were great sports as Eric and I fiddled with equipment (Eric) or took dozens of frames from slightly differing angles (me), and just generally hung out taking pictures for a good, long time.

Eric had already scouted out this area - the Mirador National Park - which is a good thing, as it is up a long, winding road and is not really the type of place that one just happens across. There are some little pull-off areas for cars, and a viewing platform, so that an incredible view of the Chagres River flowing into the Pacific Ocean may be enjoyed:

This neat little house is situated to take full advantage of that gorgeous view. Debbie and I thought this might be the perfect house for us...if only the grocery store wasn't so far away...

It's hard not to sit and stare for a long time...

Debbie and Eric - they are happily retired and living in Panama!

Driving farther up into the mountains, it's one magnificent scene after another. There are some quiet little villages tucked away in the hills, which had modest homes surrounded by lovingly-tended gardens. We'll have to go back and explore them someday!

Birds of prey such as hawks and Harpy eagles ride the thermals...

When I look at this photo, I can't help thinking that the von Trapp family is going to suddenly appear and break into "The Sound of Music."

Back out on the Pan-American highway, heading west, there is an incredibly intriguing place that compels a closer look! There are hectares of metal and wooden parts of endless variety and origin, and near the road there are numerous examples of what the ingenious owner can craft out of all of that "stuff." There are dinosaurs, conquistadors, giant insects, horses, dragons, elephants (oh, my!)...

This reminds me of a horse statue in Fountain Hills, Arizona, made in a similar fashion.

This is quite a handsome and happy guy.

This car is mostly made of old parts that have nothing to do with cars! Our son, Thomas, would like this one.

This pterodactyl is something our daughter, Alex, would appreciate.

"Take me to your leader!"

After all of the vista viewing, picture taking, sculpture perusing and driving, we started looking for a place to get some good criollo (local) food. There are lots of restaurants, fondas (small restaurants) and parrilladas (grills) all along the highway. We pulled into a parrillada - you will know you have found one when you smell the meat cooking before you even see the place! Typically, parrilladas will have various dishes based upon the meats being grilled, such as pollo (chicken), cerdo (pork), chorizo (sausage) and carne (beef). There are usually accompaniments on offer such as arroz (rice) and patacones (fried plaintains), but this place had arepas (similar to flattened cornbread stuffed with cheese)! Anyone who knows me or has read this blog more than once knows that I love cheese - so I quite enjoyed my pollo con arepas, muchas gracias!

Chorizo and arepas on the grill.

Hot off the grill.

With full bellies, we continued going west on the Pan-Americana, all the way to Santa Clara. While in Santa Clara, we stopped by the XS Hotel right off the highway to visit the fantastic collection of birds that live on the property. The hotel itself is very nice, with an inviting pool and lush landscaping. One of the macaws spends the better part of the day in the tree near his cage, only using the cage for eating and sleeping! He looks extremely pleased with this situation.

What's next?

Tomorrow, we will be heading down to Santa Clara for a few days of "beach time," and our next report will detail that area of the Pacific Coast. Many folks have contacted us with questions about the desirability of one Panama beach area versus another, and since we chose to (initially) live in the mountains, we can't really answer that question yet. Tom and I do enjoy the beach and will probably move closer to it at some point; however, we are learning that beaches and beach towns in Panama vary greatly. So, we are taking on the arduous and unpleasant task of assaying as many beach towns as possible for the benefit of our readers!

Tropical Gardeners' Delight - APROVACA Orchid Center

2012-02-02T19:56:00.003-06:00

This morning during a delicious breakfast at Artash (a neat little breakfast/lunch place in El Valle) with our friend Aaron, Tom and I had the pleasure of meeting Cathy and Dave, a couple from Wisconsin. Cathy and Dave were visiting Panama, and El Valle, for the third (or fourth?) time... guess they are pretty fond of this place!

After breakfast, Tom and I chatted with our new friends for a while, and ended up catching a ride over to APROVACA Orchid Center with them. Tom and I are taking our time about seeing the sights of our new home, so we had not yet visited APROVACA. Since Cathy and Dave had already visited the orchid center and had other sights to see, they dropped us off with promises to see us again someday in El Valle.

According to the center's website, APROVACA "is the Spanish acronym for The Association of Orchid Producers of El Valle and Cabuya. Founded in 2001, we are a small grassroots association dedicated to the conservation of native Panamanian orchid species in danger of extinction. The local orchids are facing two main problems: deforestation and poaching. The trees in the surrounding mountains are being cut down, and since most orchids are epiphytes (meaning they grow on trees), this practice deprives orchids of their natural habitat. The act of poaching orchids to take home or sell at market has also been a major problem in El Valle de Anton. Although illegal, it is still commonplace. "

Upon our arrival and payment of $2.00 each, we were greeted by our guide, Liza, an Austrian volunteer on holiday. Liza works for an eco-tour company in her "regular life" and was an engaging and knowledgeable host. Many of the workers at the center are volunteers, while some are paid workers, and they all share an interest in preserving these unique and beautiful plants. The center has recently added some hostel accommodations as an additional profit center - it is only $12.00 per night to stay in one of these rooms.

Our tour started off with an explanation of how orchids are classified in the horticultural realm. Orchids are perennial herbs, and can either be tuberous or epiphitic. In warm and humid climates, many orchids are epiphitic, which means that they do not need to be rooted in soil. Instead, they have a special epidermis which absorbs moisture and nutrients from the air. This is why orchids do so well in El Valle's cloud forest climate - the air is moist, and the breezes keep the air around the plants circulating. In some cases, orchids are parasitic, and will make their home on a host tree and draw nutrients from that host (which may even be dead).

Liza showed us this little "nursery" of sorts for miniature orchids. The variety was astounding. Orchids that are kept in pots must always have plenty of circulation for the roots, hence the holes in all of the pots. Moisture is carefully controlled, with mulches of shredded coconut husks, bark and even bits of Styrofoam.

Here is an example of an orchid growing happily on its host tree. Those long dangling things are developing leaves.

Who knew that vanilla is an orchid species? Well, I didn't... until now. Below is an example of a vanilla plant, winding around its host tree.

APROVACA is about more than orchids - there are many other types of plants that are indigenous to the region on display. It was a pleasure to stroll the paths and learn the names of the plants in our new home.

That tall plant with the large red flower is called "ornamental ginger."

Below is a good example of a parasitic type of orchid. The host tree is dead. However, this orchid will have no worries about surviving. Those long, carrot-shaped bodies are storehouses of nutrients that the plant has collected.

This plant grows near our house, and it's one I had never seen before. I was really happy to learn its name (Nazareno), and that it produces lovely flowers.

The center has a small plot of vegetables, as well as medicinal plants. The herbs and medicinals are offered for sale. We happily acquired lemongrass and rosemary (called "Romero" here). There are mangoes, ornamental bananas, pineapples...

gourds...

...and this interesting plant, called a calabash! In Africa, the spongy guts are used to make soup Here in Panama, the plant is cut in half, hollowed out and each half is used as a bowl or planter:

Ferns of all kinds are abundant and grow quite large in El Valle.

Below is an example of one of many types of bromeliads that inhabit the center. Bromeliads are members of a plant family known as Bromeliaceae The family contains over 3,000 described species in approximately 56 genera. Like orchids, many bromeliads are epiphytic. The most well known bromeliad is the pineapple! The family contains a wide range of plants including some very un-pineapple like members such as Spanish Moss (which is neither Spanish nor a moss). Other members resemble aloes or yuccas while still others look like green, leafy grasses. Many have brilliantly colored flowers, like this one:

Believe it or not, gardeners of North American climes, this is a caladium!

All types of birds and butterflies like to hang around APROVACA. This bird is called a "sangre de toro" (blood of the bull), and I was thrilled to learn its name. We have been feeding a group of these in our yard since we moved to El Valle. Extremely common here, they are also very beautiful.

Colorful hibiscus flowers attract the hummingbirds...

A tour of APROVACA can last an hour or several. For very serious orchid aficionados, this center is a treasure trove of information. Even for everyday gardeners like us, it is a must see for visitors to the cloud forest of Central Panama, who desire an understanding of the plant life of the region.

Lady's Slipper

Sunday Worship -- El Valle Style

2012-01-29T18:59:00.002-06:00

As seems to happen quite a lot in El Valle, Tom and I had a fortunate meeting this Saturday while having coffee at the local cafe. We were blessed to meet Aaron, a native of Dallas, Texas, and his adorable daughter, Avalyn.

Aaron told us that he, his wife Janet, 7 year old son Mylon, and Avalyn (aged 4), had come to Panama a year ago to live. As the son of Christian missionaries who had lived in Africa and other far flung locales, Aaron wanted to give his own children the same exposure to cultures other than their own. It was excellent timing that we got to meet Aaron on this day, as he explained that the family would be leaving Panama in a month to return to Texas.

After some conversation about El Valle, Panama in general and where the best restaurants are, it came up that Aaron and Janet were helping to lead a church that met in El Valle. He invited us to attend a worship gathering of about 40 other Christians, including other expats, Panamanians and Kuna Yala people.

We immediately accepted the invitation, along with the offer of a ride to the El Valle Bread Club. The El Valle Bread Club is run by a German family, and Charles makes some of the most delicious bread and croissants that we have ever tasted. Each week, families place their orders via email, and on Saturday mornings, they show up at Charles' home to pick up the bread. With everyone showing up at about the same time, it turns into quite the social event, with Charles' wife putting out samples of bread, her delectable herb butter, hummus and fruit spread. It was here that we met Janet, Aaron's wife, along with Mylon, their son. (Aaron, upon arriving at the Bread Club and seeing the amazing spread, knew that he would be in trouble if he didn't run home to fetch Janet!)

Before Tom and I left with our motherlode of baguettes, croissants and assorted artisan breads, we firmed up the plans to ride to church with Aaron and his family in the morning. We then scurried home to savor those croissants!

Best buddies! (Aaron and Janet in the background.)

We arrived at the home of David and Lisa, 2 mission workers from the US who were back in the States for the week. David and Lisa rent a lovely home and grounds which used to house a candy factory, and the large shed at the rear of the property was more than ample for the worship gathering. We quickly set up the simple space with chairs, handed out song books, and in short order the people began to arrive.

Walking to church.

The worship gathering takes place in this old candy factory.

We were introduced to every man, woman and child who arrived, and given a brief run down as to who was related to whom. The families all sat down in the circle, and Janet led everyone in song; old favorites such as "Holy, Holy, Holy" were sung in Spanish, and then sometimes in English, and even in Kuna Yala! It was quite an experience to be singing Christian songs in Spanish, let alone Kuna. Cleo, a church member who is Kuna, did the translations for the songbook. Such a gifted young man; fluent in English, Spanish and Kuna, as well as being a father of 5.

Communion.

The message for the day came from 1Corinthians 12, which talks about how we are all members of the same body - the Body of Christ - though we are each individual members. And Aaron broke the news that he and the family would be leaving El Valle and returning to Texas. His eloquent, heartfelt expressions of appreciation for each and every person there (he called them all out by name, and gave thanks for them) put tears of melancholy, and yet joy, in almost every eye, including ours.

Getting ready to sing more songs after communion.

When the worship gathering concluded, it was time for the children to have their Sunday School lesson. I was reminded of my Sunday School kids back in Tennessee, and how sweet and bright they were. Hat's off to Janet for being able to conduct just one class for kids ranging in age from 4 years through 14!

Aaron and Janet's adorable children, Avalyn and Mylon, with a pal.

Tom and I feel amazingly blessed to have been invited to share this special worship time with our new friends, and that we were able to meet Aaron and Janet and their wonderful kids before they left El Valle. We wish them many great blessings as they start a new chapter in their own adventure!

After church, it's off to the mercado for shaved ice!

Day Trip to Playa Coronado and Gorgona

2012-01-26T15:44:00.003-06:00

This is a tale of getting lost, finding out and making a mini-adventure out of a shopping trip to "town."

Besides having some funny parts, this post might also prove helpful for those who are seriously considering a move to Panama and are interested in such practical matter as: "How do we get around?, "Can I buy mayonnaise down there?" and "How much is the rum?"

Our story begins on a Tuesday morning; needing to bring the infamous broken laptop to Punta G Computers (the place that was recommended to us by "everyone" in Panama) and assay the big, fancy supermarkets for items such as meats (for Tom), fancy cheese (pour moi), and - dare I dream? - Hellmann's mayonnaise, we caught a ride to Coronado with our land-persons, Michele and Ken.

The plan: to compare prices at all of the grocery stores, then grab a cab to La Playa, explore the beach, come back to town by cab, and then buy all of our groceries and take the bus back to El Valle. While we did end up accomplishing much of this, it did not go exactly as planned....

The 40 minute ride down the mountain from our volcano-crater home was winding and scenic, and before we knew it, we were at the Coronado Mall. We immediately took note that a McDonald's McNifica burger would run us about $1.59 each, should we feel the need to partake in some fast food (we did not, but we reserve the right to have a taste of the USA if we need to!). We then took the dastardly Dell up to nearby Punta G Computers, where a cheerful, English-speaking lady named Ruby took the demon off our hands with a payment of about $25 for diagnostic services. (Ultimately, the diagnosis was "dead hard drive", and we are having Punta G install a new (bigger) hard drive, Windows and virus protection for a bit less than this would cost in the States.)

With that bit of business behind us, we crossed the Pan-Americana Highway to the new mall that is still being finished. This mall houses the much-hyped El Machetazo store, and some of the hype is indeed warranted. It's basically a grocery store on the first floor with 2 upper floors of toys, housewares, electronics, clothing and "what-not." Sort of like a Target store in the States (but NOT Target...the Conway stores in Panama City are owned by Target). So what's the big deal, right? Well, for ex-pats who yearn for the modern grocery shopping experience, complete with Hellmann's mayo, good quality meats and "luxury" items - not to mention armed guards at the front of the store (de riguer in Panama) - this place is PARADISE.

Before our faithful readers point out our previous ramblings on this very blog about how Tom and I want to learn to live with less and consume less, there are times that we are just comforted to know that if we want this experience, this mayo, this CHEESE (yes, I like cheese), it is here. And for the record, we did come home with 3 logs of herbed chevre, some wine, a spatula (our well-equipped rental cottage was lacking this essential implement), some art supplies (!) and POUNDS of various meat. No mayonnaise; alas, I had already bought some at the Super Mini Centro Hong Kong Market in El Valle, and thus could not justify buying more.

Now for the million dollar question - how are the prices? First thing to know about shopping ANYWHERE is that you need to know what things cost typically. For example, in our little town of El Valle, a pound of papas (potatoes) can run .65/lb up to .95/lb, depending upon how close the market is to the "tourist" section of town. This is not considerably less than the cost of potatoes in the US. When you get into a store like El Machetazo, the cost of food can be close to US prices. There are some big, IMPORTANT (to some) exceptions. Booze is much cheaper here, even in the "fancy stores." Regular white table wine (they do have bottles, not just boxes!), runs about $2.15 (the "B" in the pictures means "Balboa" -this is what the dollar is called in Panama) for 2 liters. Liquor is also cheap by comparison to the US; this is a local brand of rum, priced at $3.89!

After El Machetazo, Tom and I had a quick lunch at Don Lee (think "down-scale" Pei Wei), which was cheap and good. Then we headed back over to Coronado Mall to check out Rey and Super 99, the 2 main grocery chains in Panama (the family of Panama's President, Ricardo Martinelli, owns Super 99). We found a lot of items in these stores that we were used to "back home," and made sure to grab a coveted bottle of Hershey's chocolate syrup for Tom, who'd been jonesing for it!

Bottom line: if you move to Panama, and shop at "fancy" markets and buy imported foods, Panama will not be a bargain for you. If you go "criollo" (local), and shop the mom and pop stores (look for the words, "super" and "mini") and Super 99, you will do better. Eat local foods - fruits and veggies in season, rice (don't ask me how to cook it perfectly; I am still trying to figure that out), fish - and you'll be healthier and richer. Try and stay away from the sugar-y juices that Panamenos love!

Tom found a steampunk-style Iron Man statue in the El Machetazo toy department!

In the Coronado Mall there is also a Dollar Store - the presence of which, we hope, will entice Tom's parents to visit us! This place is crammed to the limit with unnecessary plastic objects, and even some useful stuff. Tom didn't find any useful stuff.

After the inspections of the supermarkets and such were completed, we stopped into the Mailboxes Etc. store and spoke to the owner about their services. For those who don't know this yet - not every country in the world has door to door mail service, and Panama is one of them. Heck, many places in Panama (such as our house) don't even have street addresses! When we tell folks where we live, it is usually, "the casita in the front yard of the big green house on the road next to the Yin Market; the house that Doreen used to own but now Michele does." So, there is a dilemma that exists for those who need to receive mail, which is usually resolved by renting a post office box. Since Tom and I are currently having the tiny amount of mail that we receive sent to a friend's house in the States, and we will be apprised of anything "urgent," we didn't feel the need to rent a PO box just yet. In the unlikely event that we start ordering stuff from Amazon and EBay, we will have to revisit this. We did find out that if you only order things every now and then, Mailboxes Etc. will let you have it shipped to them on a "by the piece" basis.

And now the fun begins! After grabbing a refreshing libation at the Sunset Grill and Bar, we jumped into a taxi on the road that "appeared" to lead to the playa. Those who know me know that I tend to conduct careful due diligence before travelling to places - on a recent trip to Greece with my daughter, I researched every grain of sand on every island we visited before we left the US. Those who REALLY know me, know that I have a mischievous side, and sometimes I like to just "get lost." Tom probably thought I had studied the map and knew exactly where "la playa" was, but he quickly learned that I had no idea where we were going. The long, bumpy ride through residential neighborhoods and the cackling laughter of the driver and his front seat passenger soon revealed to us that the taxi driver had no idea where "la playa" was either, but was up for some fun.

As we rounded a corner, we spied a bit of sky and water in the distance. There was an alleyway leading between 2 houses that led to the promised land! "Aqui, aqui," we exclaimed, and hopped out of the cab. Headed in the direction of the golden sand of Playa Coronado, we figured that we'd take a nice stroll on the beach, dip our toes in the water, and take those kinds of photos that make the folks "back home" green with envy. After that, we'd duck into one of the many resorts that we just knew would be beachside, have a cold drink and maybe a nosh, and then have the door man hail us a taxi.

After the required rituals of beach frolicking, toe dunking and picture taking were completed, we set off on our stroll toward what appeared to be luxury hotels in the distance.

Looks good so far... except that these are all private homes on the left (see photo above), and continued access to beach was blocked by rocks. And the beach was quite deserted for such a lovely day, so we figured: well, the best thing to do would be to go back to the road and try to find the "resorts" from the front. After a long, sweaty walk down a street with lovely seaside homes, we arrived at the Sands resort and cut through the property to the beach. As we strolled down the beach for quite some time, looking for that perfect resort at which to alight, we noticed that the sand was gradually getting blacker and blacker; I knew that Gorgona had black sand, but we couldn't have walked to Gorgona... or could we..? Seeing a fancy staircase leading up to what appeared to be a posh hotel, we decided that this would be the place to stop. Arriving at the top of the stairs, we saw tanned people lounging by the pool, a lovely bar area, children playing in the pool and uniformed waiters attending to the needs of all.

As we sashayed across the pool deck, looking for all the world like we "belonged", a gentleman addressed us from his lounge chair. "Can I help you?," he asked. To which my dear husband, in a slightly veiled smartly-alecky tone, replied, "Why, is this your house or something?" [Tom sez: "Hey, it was hot out and I was frustrated..!] I can't make this stuff up, folks... of course this guy (a New Yorker, no less) replied, "Yes, it actually is."

With feet in gaping mouths, we were speechless. The man got up from his chair and asked if he could get us each a glass of water, which we accepted gratefully before we slunk away, wishing we had remembered to pack those cloaks of invisibility.

On down the now-black sand beach we continued, in the direction of three naked, laughing children, and when it become apparent that we were at the end of the world and there would be no resort (those tall buildings are condos that are still being built -argghh!), no cold drink, NO TAXI, we headed off the beach and down a local road.

Happy children!

Gorgona sands.

As we wandered with wet sandy feet down the rural streets, we were indeed "lost," but not overly concerned. We knew that we could muster enough Spanish to ask a person (should we encounter one!) how to get back to the Pan-American Highway, and a bus. For a while, we walked with only the chickens and country dogs as company. Eventually, we came to a fork in the road - which we took. A few buildings (one with the bible verse John 3:16 beautifully painted on the side of it), kids on bikes, people relaxing in hammocks, even a car or 2, appeared - but no buses or taxis yet. Seeing a "Super Mini" store, we stopped in for a cold drink and asked the young lady inside for directions to the Pan-Americana. With hand motions and the few words we did understand, she helped us get on our way. Another young lady we met on the road communicated that it was very far to the highway, but that a bus would come soon. We walked and walked, and sure enough - a bus came and on we jumped. 5 minutes and 30 cents later, we were at the highway, where we grabbed another bus right back to Coronado, and the meats and cheeses of El Machetazo.

After all of the shopping, walking, self-inflicted embarrassment, lamentable speaking of Spanish to smiling, helpful strangers, the 40 - minute bus ride back to El Valle was a welcome respite!

Sometimes it's ok to get lost -- you never know what you might find out.

For God so loved the world, that He gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in Him should not perish, but have everlasting life. John 3:16 KJV

Settling In - El Valle de Anton

2012-01-22T09:47:00.003-06:00

We have arrived in El Valle de Anton, our new home base for the next six months! After a half-hearted attempt to find a used car to buy in Panama City was aborted (Tom and I have decided to try to *gasp* live without a car!), we did as the locals do and took the bus. The public transportation system in Panama is excellent and far-reaching, and many locals and expats get along just fine without owning cars.

The Albrook transportation center, conveniently located near the Albrook Mall, is on the west end of Panama City (in the old Canal Zone). If you arrive at the terminal by taxi and laden with 4 suitcases, two backpacks and 2 laptop bags (as we did), a porter will load up your gear and bring it right to the ticket counter and then to your bus. Once you buy your ticket and board the bus, you will soon be traveling over the Puente de las Americas and onto the Pan-American Highway within minutes. There is a bus to El Valle every 30 minutes, and frequent buses to many other destinations, so you won't be waiting long in the terminal. If you do become peckish during your wait, there are restaurants and shops (tons of mobile phone shops...we are not quite sure why they need so many); we decided to try Nikos Cafe, which is basically what Southerners call a "meat and three". You can also buy dishes and desserts a la carte, and the food is hearty and inexpensive. We both had the meat and 3 veggies (pure de papas = yum!) and the tab was about $11.00.

Important Note: Make sure you have a nickel to get through the turnstyle to board the bus. Also, if you need to use the restrooms at the terminal, you will need a quarter to insert into the turnstyle. Tom calls it the "pay to pee swindle."

The buses in Panama range from the smallish passenger van type (which we rode in), to Diablos Rojos (intricately painted old school buses that primarily navigate the urban areas), to "luxury" buses (the air conditioning is the open window and the toilet is, well, rough), to genuine luxury buses with real toilets and a/c. ALL Panamanian buses feature loud music, so bring your mp3 player or ear plugs if this doesn't suit you! I happen to think it adds greatly to the experience, and you might agree. (Tom said "bollocks" and listened to the Sex Pistols.)

Also present on every bus is the driver's assistant (sometimes there is more than one). The assistant collects the money and tickets, opens and closes the door and helps with packages and luggage. It is very interesting to see the assistants round up prospective passengers at the many bus stops along the Pan-American Highway. I observed that many of the passengers don't line up for the bus immediately when it arrives; rather, they wait for the assistant to come out and announce the bus' destination.

After a pleasant ride of about 2 hours, the bus ascended the mountains surrounding El Valle, and then descended into the extinct volcano crater where the town is situated. Our stop was the "end of the line," near the mercado. Once our luggage was unloaded, we waited outside the very busy Yin market for our new landlady to pick us up and bring us to our new home. We quickly learned that our new home is very centrally located just down the dirt road next to the Yin Market, and across from the big Mercado. Our cottage is part of a small compound, which includes the owner's home, gardens and a lovely bridge across a stream which leads to the stable. The owner is a cat lover, and she has set up the stable as a shelter for "feral" cats.

During our first few days in town, we have been very busy shopping for food at the various markets (which all seem to be Chinese owned), poking around the big Mercado (one of the most famous markets in Latin America), meeting people and assaying various restaurants. Shopping for food around here is an experience - you might have to go to 3 places to find most of what you need! We have been told that the best shopping for "stuff that expats like" is in Coronado, so we will be sure to check out the situation there. You might buy something in the store here, as I did, thinking it is something entirely different. I grabbed what appeared to be a stack of pineapple slices, and opened it later to make a fruit salad. I found out that I had purchased masa,
which is dough that is used to make tortillas and tamales. Guess I will be learning how to make tortillas - but not tamales, as Tom hates them!

A great discovery we made right away is that Ty's Sports Grille is located close to our house. We met Ty and Michelle, the Canadian owners, and had a delicious lunch. My beloved husband does not need to go without his sacred baby-back ribs! Just when I was wondering, "When am I going to see a monkey around here?", in walks Michelle with her pet Capuchin, Mona. So, great food, nice people, close to home, and a monkey...yes, we will be regulars here..!

The entrance to Casa Verde

Here I am, relaxing in the yard - Aaaahhhhh!

Our street...it doesn't have a name, so just turn at the Yin Market and keep going until you see Casa Verde.

The end of our street, where it meets Avenida Principal. You can see the mercado on the left, and La India Dormida straight ahead. There is a legend that goes with that name (of course), which we will blog about soon.

What we see when we walk to El Valle Gourmet Coffee Shop.

Michelle and Mona.

My monkey, Tom with Mona.

Pekin Plaza, which has shops, restaurants and a hotel. It kind of makes you wonder if you somehow got on the wrong bus and ended up in China!

The Mercado

Kuna Yala lady working on a mola (MO-lah) at the mercado.

Exploring Casco Viejo -The Old City of Panama

2012-01-19T13:58:00.004-06:00

A district of Panama City known as Casco Viejo, Casco Antiguo or San Felipe, is full of beautifully restored colonial buildings, crumbling ruins, restaurants and bars, museums, churches and tourists rubbing elbows with locals as they navigate the narrow streets.

In 1998, UNESCO declared the area a World Heritage Site, and the restoration effort began in what had previously been a dangerous and poverty-ridden slum. The President of Panama moved his official residence to the Casco district, and brought with him a large force of National Police. The presence of the armed Policia Nacional, in their red berets, can be disquieting at times, but it cannnot be denied that the Casco is now considered a very safe place to visit (at least in most of the district).

People watching...

Balconies festooned with laundry are a common sight.

La Plaza de La Catedral. The Cathedral is lovely and peaceful inside.

The Kuna people sell their moles and other handicrafts on the streets of Casco, and they all seem to have radiant smiles!

The cathedral at Plaza Simon Bolivar, one of the prettiest squares in the Casco, and a busy meeting place at night with bars and restaurants all around.

Viejo Havana...this unassuming-looking place serves the world's best Mojitos, AND plays the best Cuban music!

It's amazing what can be done with bananas. These fried plantanos, served with a fancy dipping sauce known as ketchup, were crispy and delicious. We recommend you visit the Diablicos Restaurant if you find yourself in these parts..fantastic service and wonderful food.

Our first Panamanian meal consisted of Ceviche de Corvina (served in little cups made out of mashed bananas) for an appetizer, followed by the dish shown below...Ropas Viejas (literally translates to "old clothes" - sure doesn't taste like it!) with rice and beans, and these little "cakes" made of......you guessed it -
bananas!

Here's the Policia Nacional guardsman that has to stand outside of Viejo Havana and watch the people inside having drinks and fun. He seemed pretty bored out there, and I felt like being a pal and bringing him a Balboa beer. But they carry machine guns, so I decided against it.

Tom and I found ourselves drawn to Casco Viejo, and spent a lot of time there while in the city. There is a patina of warmth and history that blankets this district. When you go, you will see restored buildings with every detail lovingly wrought, next to dilapidated building. Often these ruins consist of just a facade. If you purchase that ruin/facade, keep in mind that when you rebuild it to open your chic bed and breakfast, you will need to keep that facade and building footprint as part of the new structure! Even with the restrictions, the Casco is a hub of construction activity and it seems like it will be more and more lovely on each subsequent visit we make.

Good Morning from Panama City!

2012-01-16T08:30:00.002-06:00

Tom and I arrived safely last night...we are finally in Panama! After a flight delay at Dallas/Fort Worth Airport, a very long line at immigration, collecting the luggage and going through customs, we met our driver, Jose. With Jose's English limited, and my Spanish even more so, we relied on Tom to do most of of the talking. By the end of the cab ride to our guesthouse, I was already speaking Spanish..."Si, bueno!" I exclaimed repeatedly as Jose pointed out the new Trump Tower, Casco Viejo and other landmarks. What a vocabulary I have.."aqui", "gracias", "necessito un bano" (haven't used that phrase yet, but I am sure I will bust it out within the week).

Seriously, I am very thankful that Tom speaks some Spanish...it's obvious that he will be fluent very soon. And maybe it will rub off on me. [Tom sez: "Oh, Monkey - you'll do just fine in no time at all..!"]

Upon arrival at our guesthouse around midnight, we discovered that my Dell laptop crashed during the flight from Dallas to Panama...we have tried to revive it, but it's not looking good. Right now I am very very thankful that I bought my emergency netbook for $100 at Music City Pawn back in TN. And wondering if it will be able to fit the Rosetta Stone Level 1 Spanish program that I just got around to loading onto the Dell just before our departure...sigh...trying not to stress. Especially after waking to the calls of strange new birds out in the garden.....

Our guesthouse is The Balboa Inn, right near Cerro Ancon. It's in a residential neighborhood with lots of trees, birds and the cute little critters known as agoutis. They look like guinea pigs, and probably are closely related, if not the same thing!(I will have to research this further.) You can see one in the picture above...the guy and his buddies joined us for breakfast along with more kinds of birds than we could count. Several types of hummingbirds and lovely little blue parakeets clamored around the patio when food was offered by Mieke and Bill, the owners.

Now it's time to go exploring! The weather forecast is for temperatures in the '90s, with quite a bit of humidity, but we are undaunted. Tonight at 6:00 pm, we have a date for drinks with a gal named Liz Taylor who is here from the UK for the big jazz festival that is taking place mainly in the Casco district --I made Liz's acquaintance via an expat forum, while talking about starting a book exchange for expats down here. I am expecting that it will be very interesting down in the Casco today with all of these "jazzy" people around, and we will have some good photos and stories to tell!

What We'll Miss About "Home"...

2011-12-30T19:10:00.003-06:00

"Home" is Franklin, Tennessee. Even though I am a New Yorker, born and bred, and Tom is, for all intents and purposes, an Arizonan, Franklin has been more than a place to live for us. I've lived here twice (1993-2002, and 2009 until the present), and I can't help but think that I'm not "done" with this special place. Tom trusted me in 2009, having never lived in the "South", and he has since become an adopted Son of the South. He loves the people, the food and sweet tea!

What makes Franklin (and Tennessee) special? It's the people. Once you have experienced the genuine friendliness of the folks here, it's hard to NOT feel at home. Aside from the people, Franklin has wonderful restaurants, music venues, shops and is surrounded by lovely countryside.

As we prepare to ring in the new year, and set off on our journey, we want to pay homage to Franklin and some places, people and things we'll miss...

This is Five Points...where everyone eventually ends up, having a coffee at Starbucks and meeting up with friends.

Downtown Franklin is full of lovingly cared for homes...this is one of my favorites -they decorate for every holiday!

Rural Williamson County...this old train depot has been sagging for many years and probably will do so for many more.

The BEST burger in Franklin and possibly the world can be found at the Bunganut Pig...this is Dina, one of our favorite servers at "the Pig". The patio is the place to be in the spring, summer and fall with awesome live music!

Both of our kids attend UT - Good Ol' Rocky Top!! This is Neyland Stadium on game day (not exactly "Franklin", but most folks in Franklin have orange blood in their veins).

The Student Section!

Brad, one of many wonderful baristas at the Five Points Starbucks.

Sign on the bench that Tom and I usually sit on when we drink our coffee in the sunshine...

The people of Franklin raised the millions of dollars needed to restore the historic Franklin Theatre. It's more beautiful now than ever, and all sorts of acts play here. They also show movies...

There is always a street fair, festival or parade happening downtown! Franklin is a great place for families.

The Farmers Market is not just a place to shop...there is always some sort of entertainment, and being so close to Music City, Franklin is home to some unbelievable talent.

This is my Noble Farms Goat Cheese Lady. I sure hope we can find goat cheese in Panama!

Fall color.... We won't be seeing this for a while.

Ribs and BBQ...Tom will miss this A LOT.

Saturday morning...bring your coffee and wander the market...fresh produce, eggs, grain fed beef from nearby farms can be found, along with honey, crafts, herbs, artisan breads and granola...

Frozen yogurt at Sweet CeCe's...Tom can be found here even in the winter!

McCreary's Pub on Main Street...if you can get a seat, try the fish and chips and a stuffed baked potato...with a Guinness of course...

One of our favorite places to go in the Franklin area is High Meadow Alpaca Farm in Liepers Fork. Every year they have an open house, and last summer, we watched two crias (baby alpacas) being born. Here is one of them...standing and bonding with Mom about an hour after birth!

Machu Picchu Pictures -- National Geographic

2011-12-21T12:22:00.001-06:00

Bucket List item number 1!!

Machu Picchu Pictures -- National Geographic

Why, oh why?!

2011-10-30T20:57:00.002-05:00

As a creature of habit, I have a daily ritual of stopping by the local Starbucks every morning to get my quad espresso over ice. One day last week while enjoying said beverage and reading Lonely Planet's Central America on a shoestring, I engaged in conversation with another coffee drinker. When I told him that my husband and I were planning to leave the US indefinitely to live and travel in Panama and beyond, he asked, "Why? What are your top 3 reasons?".

Without thinking, I listed:

1. Lower cost of living

2. Warmer weather

3. Have never been!

As I thought about this question later in the day, I was able to mentally list many other reasons, some very serious, some a bit trivial...even whimsical. And here they are, in no particular order or ranking:

We are tired of the cycle of "work-buy-consume-die" lifestyle that many confuse with "living".
We are tired of being taxed to support a government that appears to have forgotten that it is here to SERVE the people.
We are tired of 600 channels and nothing on.
We are tired. Period. Just plain exhausted. Panamanians have made an official past-time of "hammocking". We believe we will excel at it!
We want to spend time together, just BEING.
We want to unleash our creative sides and spend time writing, painting, taking pictures and just "living artfully".
We need to have quiet time, spiritually, to read, contemplate and be worshipful of a God that loves us more than we can imagine, and who created an amazing world of wonders for us to experience.
We need fresh air, exercise, even bugs. (Tom will not agree with the needing of bugs. I may change my mind once we get to Panama. Oh, and spiders are NOT bugs. Let me be clear -we do not need spiders.)
We want and need LESS. Less noise in our heads, less stuff to encumber us, even less "discretionary income". GASP!! Am I saying that we want to be destitute? Not at all. Just that, living simply and keeping our load light, our expenses will be far less than what they currently are in the States. What we "lose" in money, we are gaining in the sweet luxury of TIME. There's got to be a trade-off...some people are rich and can have their cake and eat it too...we are not those people. More about how we are financing this adventure in a blog post coming soon!
We want to be a blessing to those we meet along the way (people as well as critters). We don't yet know what that will look like (volunteering in a children's home, building a church, helping to care for baby sloths?), but we hope to have opportunities present themselves organically as we travel.
Our middle-aged brains need stimulation. Over the past few years, I have felt like my mind is atrophying from lack of stimulation -almost like I'm getting "dumber" as I move zombie-like through my mundane middle-class suburban existence. What could be a better jump-start to the grey matter than finding a place to live in a new country, applying for 3 different visas, combing over maps, guidebooks, websites, airline and train schedules and learning (or trying to learn) a new language?!

What things are NOT reasons that we are embarking on our the Adventure:

We don't hate the U.S.A., and we have not "given up" on it. This is our country, warts and all, and we love it. Tom served in the armed forces during the Cold War and he would serve again if called.
We aren't trying to get away from our families...we love our kids, our parents, and our friends! Y'all can come visit us in Panama anytime!
We aren't on the lam.

Hopefully, this answers the "Why" question!

Becoming a Vagabond Takes A Whole Lotta Preparation...by Tom

2011-10-13T19:41:00.001-05:00

Well, friends, it's on - The Lovely Susan (my wife's name is more than just that... it is a title!) and I are about to embark upon what we like to call our Great Middle-Aged Adventure. We are going to be exploring and savoring the mysteries and wonderments of Central and South America for the next six months (at least). The general idea is to take off that time to rest, relax, recreate and regale our friends (that would be you) and family (that would be... well... our family) with thrilling tales of travel and residence in some of the most beautiful lands God has ever created. We are setting out on an odyssey of legendary importance, and we will be chronicling our experiences and observations for your reading pleasure and enlightenment! Take the time to (vicariously) live and travel with us as we lay bare the exotic bounty of Central and South America... complete with photos!

Ah, but I hear you ask: "So, Tom... what exactly goes into preparing for a vagabondian excursion into the heretofore untracked wilds of these dark and primitive lands?" Okay, so maybe you're not asking me that, but I'll tell you anyway: the groundwork for this exodus was laid months ago by The Lovely Susan - who is the most brilliant travel planner I have EVER known - who poured countless hours into research on the places we'll be going, and establishing relationships with numerous people already living "in country," so we won't be just diving in blind. Single-handedly, she made the travel arrangements, secured the reservations and did all of the necessary brainwork to get us up, up and away. My role in all this is to basically carry the luggage.

Okay, all fine and well. But this blog post was supposed to be about my feelings about leaving the good ole US of A for regions as yet unexplored (by us). So here, in a nutshell, are my musings:

- I'm looking forward to the trip with great excitement. Susan's enthusiasm for this is so inspiring and encouraging, any feelings of trepidation or uneasiness are easily quelled by just the look in her eyes as she describes all the fantastic experiences awaiting us.

- I am a bit concerned with how we'll support ourselves on this Adventure. We're both leaving our jobs and using what money we've saved up, plus other monies we managed to make by selling most of our possessions at garage sales and consignment shops (oh, yeah - there's also the hope that we will earn some sort of income from this blog, and by doing some travel and copy writing, as well as selling some photographs). But Susan assures me that we will have plenty of ducats for the entire stay, and our money will go much farther "down there" than it does here, and I trust her completely, so...

- I will miss some fantastic folks and friends we've made here in the US, but there's always Fa(r)cebook for keeping in touch, and hopefully, you will keep reading, and tell your other friends about, this little literary endeavour of ours.

- I wonder what the social/political/spiritual climate will be like in the places we plan to visit. What are their thoughts on us "Americans Who Speak Limited Spanish But Are Learning?" Will we be good ambassadors for our country, and more important, will we be good witnesses for our Lord? Will we make friends among the locals, or will we be seen as merely more "gringos" to grudgingly tolerate until we shove off for home?

All legitimate concerns, and I have several more (which I won't bore you with), but my sense of adventure transcends all of them with a "let's see what's what when we get there" philosophy. As I said, I am very excited about this, and look forward to the entire experience as a Great Big Middle-Aged Adventure..!