Still, those numbers are tiny compared to deaths from dogs, snakes, or even spiders. So while bear attacks are rare, the real danger isn’t to people—it’s to the bears themselves.

In Montana’s Northern Continental Divide Ecosystem—home to over a thousand grizzlies—a study found that just one in ten adult bears die of old age. Humans account for a staggering 71% of adult grizzly deaths, and many of those happen only after a bear learns to associate people with food. Once that happens, it’s often too late.

As the saying goes, a fed bear is a dead bear.

Presented by Blue Coolers

Why Bear-Resistant Coolers Matter

Most human–bear conflicts start with something simple: a cooler left out overnight, an open garbage can, or snacks left in a tent.

Once a bear gets rewarded with food from a human source, even once, it remembers. And that creates a dangerous situation for everyone involved.

Wildlife managers call this food conditioning, and it’s one of the leading causes of bear deaths in North America. When bears repeatedly raid campsites or garbage bins, they’re often euthanized for public safety.

The good news? We can prevent most of these encounters by simply securing our food and trash. And that’s where the Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee (IGBC) comes in.

What Is the IGBC and What Do They Do?

The Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee is a collaboration between the U.S. Forest Service, National Park Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, and several state wildlife agencies.

Among their responsibilities is managing the Bear-Resistant Products Testing Program, which evaluates everything from coolers to garbage cans and storage lockers. Their goal: identify and certify products that can stand up to the strength and persistence of a determined grizzly.

Inside the Bear Testing Process

Bear testing isn’t done in a lab—it’s done with real grizzly bears.

I visited the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center in West Yellowstone, Montana, where IGBC testing happens year-round, but mostly in late Spring through early Fall. There, I met Chris Wiese, who coordinates product testing at the center.

“Our bears play a huge role in conservation,” Chris told me. “They’re ambassadors. If they can’t break into a container, we’re confident that wild bears won’t either.”

The process is surprisingly hands-on—and a little messy. And it doesn’t just apply to coolers, but other containers too, like bear canisters for backpacking, garbage cans, and even dumpsters for people’s homes and businesses in bear country.

Before a test, Chris removes any small parts that could hurt the bears, then fills the cooler with irresistible bait. The idea is to give the bears a reason to try their hardest to break into the cooler.

Then, the coolers go into a secure enclosure, where one or two bears are released at a time to “test” it.

To pass certification, the container must withstand at least 60 minutes of active bear contact—chewing, clawing, pawing, jumping, and rolling—without the bear getting inside.

Bear-Resistant vs. Bear-Proof

There’s really no such thing as a bear-proof cooler. Given enough time and determination, a grizzly could probably break into just about anything. The goal isn’t to create an impenetrable box—it’s to build one tough enough to survive as long as a bear’s attention span.

That’s why the IGBC standard requires 60 minutes of continuous bear contact—paws, claws, or jaws on the product. Only one container is tested at a time and sometimes it takes multiple sessions over days, weeks, or even months to complete the test.

Chris films every test and reviews the footage back in his office, timing exactly how long the bears were actively working on the cooler.

The reasoning behind this is simple: if a captive bear that knows food is inside, and has years of practice breaking into containers, can’t get in after a full hour of trying, it’s extremely unlikely that a wild bear—encountering a cooler for the first time—will succeed. In the wild, a bear might sniff, paw, or push the cooler for a bit, but if it doesn’t yield quickly, it’ll usually move on to easier food.

The bears at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center are incredibly skilled. Chris has seen one reach through a dumpster slot to flip a latch, and I personally watched Coram, their largest bear, unscrew a drain plug like a human.

These bears are professionals—breaking into containers is their job. So if they can’t do it in an hour, your average wild bear probably won’t even try that long.

Chris says the most common failure point isn’t the latch or hinge—it’s the lid or sidewall. The bears often use what he calls the “CPR method,” standing on a container and pressing down hard with both front legs. If the plastic flexes or cracks, it’s game over. Other times, they’ll start a small puncture with their teeth, then bite and pry until they tear their way through the insulation.

In fact, a cooler can fail the test with just a hole larger than a quarter. That’s all it takes to prove the container isn’t bear-resistant enough for certification.

Padlocks Matter

IGBC certification assumes the cooler is padlocked, because latches are for people—bears can rip them off in seconds.

“Bears are like toddlers,” Chris said. “If they can put something in their mouth, they will.”

That’s why Chris removes all latches, rubber feet, or any loose plastic parts (except drain plugs) during the test in order to prevent bears from ingesting something that might harm them.

Then, all coolers or containers are tested with padlocks on and locked tight.

“You want a tight shank,” Chris explained. “If the lid can lift more than a quarter-inch, the bear’s gonna get in there.”

That was news to me. I’ve taken IGBC-certified bear-resistant coolers camping in bear country before, and I’ve even locked them up. But now I know the padlocks I used were too long.

Use a short-shank padlock, as short as you can fit on your cooler, so the lid can’t lift more than a quarter of an inch. Longer shanks create a gap that gives a bear leverage to pry it open and voids the “bear-resistant” benefit.

A Rare Look Behind the Scenes

Watching a full-grown grizzly work on a cooler is both thrilling and humbling. They’re curious, smart, and ridiculously strong. It’s also easy to see why this testing matters.

Every cooler or container that passes this process earns the official IGBC Bear-Resistant Certification—a small sticker or engraving that means it’s been put to the ultimate test.

So next time you shop for a cooler, look for that IGBC label. It’s more than a badge of toughness—it’s a mark of responsibility.

From the Manufacturer’s Perspective

This particular test was sponsored by Blue Coolers, whose products were in the ring (or the enclosure, rather).

I spoke with Marcus Sorensen, Blue Coolers’ CEO, about why the company decided to go through the process.

“For us, it’s about building trust,” Marcus said. “Some customers require certification, but we also believe in making products people can actually rely on in bear country. And honestly, it’s the right thing to do.”

He admitted it’s a nerve-wracking process. “You don’t know for sure if it’ll pass until the test is done,” he laughed. “If it doesn’t, you’re back to redesigning molds—and that’s not cheap.”

Thankfully, Blue Coolers passed with flying colors.

Marcus also emphasized the brand’s focus on sustainability. “We’re working on cooler lines made with ocean-bound plastics. We want to make long-lasting products that people keep for years—not stuff that ends up in landfills.”

Why It Matters for Everyone Who Camps

If you camp, fish, hunt, or live anywhere near bear country, the takeaway is simple: secure your food.

When you use a bear-resistant cooler, storage locker, or trash can, you’re not just protecting your stuff—you’re helping keep bears wild.

Grizzly bears, in particular, have been protected under the Endangered Species Act for 50 years. It’s a shame to cause them to be needlessly euthanized because we campers are too cheap or too lazy to lock up our food in a safe cooler when spending the night in their home.

As Chris put it:

“It’s all about keeping bears wild. We don’t want them taken out of the population or food conditioned to human areas.”

Final Thoughts

Watching a grizzly try to crack open a Blue Cooler was one of the most fascinating things I’ve ever filmed. It’s raw, real, and surprisingly hopeful.

Brands like Blue Coolers that invest in IGBC certification are doing more than proving durability—they’re helping conserve wildlife by preventing conflicts before they happen.

Then, it’s up to us to lock our coolers up tight, with a properly sized padlock, any time we are not actively using them in bear country.

If you want to learn more about IGBC testing or visit the bears yourself, check out:

• Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee – Bear-Resistant Products Program
• Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center, West Yellowstone, MT
• Blue Coolers

Because choosing IGBC-certified gear isn’t just smart—it’s part of keeping wild places and animals wild.

The post Why IGBC Bear-Resistant Coolers Are Critical in Bear Country appeared first on Outdoor Empire | Outdoor Gear Reviews and Pro Tips.

Many argue that white coolers outperform darker ones because they reflect sunlight, while darker coolers absorb heat and melt your ice faster. I suspected this as well, but have also heard others, including many cooler companies, claim that the color of your ice chest does NOT matter when it comes to performance. So which is it?

To settle this, I conducted a thorough test in both sunny and shaded conditions to find the truth. Here’s what I discovered.

Sponsored by Blue Coolers

What We Tested

To explore how cooler color impacts ice retention, I tested three identical coolers in white, blue, and black. We used the Blue Coolers Ice Vault 60 quart rotomolded wheeled cooler—a solid, versatile, rugged rotomolded cooler in a size that suits most people’s needs. Blue Coolers had the black one specially-made for this, which I thought was very cool of them.

Each ice chest was loaded with ice and a 12-pack of Coke Zero, then placed in direct sunlight for one test. Later I did a second test in full shade. Every day I checked the coolers and recorded my typical observations I do on all my cooler ice retention tests, as well as a series of temperature readings.

Over the course of several days, I tracked:

1. Exterior lid temperatures using an infrared thermometer.
2. Internal air temperatures with Bluetooth thermometers (constantly logging data).
3. Ice retention and melt rate through daily observations.
4. Drink temperatures inside the coolers with a pin/meat thermometer.

Additionally, I reached out to several cooler manufacturers for their input to compare our findings with industry claims.

The goal was to figure out if a dark-colored cooler melts ice faster than a lighter one and also understand if the difference is a big deal or not. The results were pretty interesting!

The Full Sun Test: White vs. Blue vs. Black

For the sun test, I placed the coolers in direct sunlight with no shade, trees, or structures to the south to ensure they were exposed to as much sun as possible. The plan was to leave them there until all the ice had melted in all three coolers.

It was a good week for this test because the daily temperature highs ranged from the mid-90s to over 100°F in full sun. Although, there was a major temperature swing the last two days of the test, it dropped into the 60s and 70s. I believe this allowed the final contender to eek out an extra day.

Here’s how they performed.

Lid Surface Temperatures

Confirming what most people already believe, the temperature of the black cooler’s lid was clearly hotter than the others at any given moment when in full sun.

At one point the black lid reached a scorching 174°F, far hotter than the white cooler’s 109°F at the same time. That extra heat on the black lid definitely had an impact on how quickly the ice melted inside. The blue cooler fell in between but was surprisingly closer to the black cooler’s temps than the white’s.

Internal Air Temperatures

I measured the internal air temperatures with the same Govee Bluetooth thermometers as the outside ambient temperature. I taped one to the center of the inside of the lid for each cooler so it would be hanging right on the ice at the beginning, but a few inches below the lid once ice started to melt and the level receded.

The chart below shows the continuously logged data at 15 second intervals. The peaks represent the hottest part of the day (usually when I opened them to take observations) and the troughs are the cooler nights.

The black cooler’s internal air temperature peaked 10°F warmer than the white cooler, while the blue cooler was about 8°F warmer. But you can clearly see that the white cooler (green line) was consistently the coldest inside.

This is important if you use a dry goods basket in your cooler that keeps things like fruits and vegetables out of the ice water and right under the lid. The temperature difference can be pretty substantial inside your cooler between the air and the ice. A light colored cooler might reduce the risk of moldy cheese or rotten veggies.

Temperature of the Contents

The lid temperature and air temperature inside is interesting, but at the end of the day it’s the temperature of your food and drinks inside that matters. It’s usually sitting in the ice, so even if it’s hot outside, or in the air a few inches above it, food and drinks can still stay cold.

So I kept a bottle of water in the ice with a hole in the lid. Each day I stuck an instant-read meat thermometer in there and recorded the temperature.

As it turns out, as long as there is ice present and the contents of your cooler are surrounded by it, it doesn’t really matter what color your cooler is or how hot it is outside. The water temperatures were the same until the ice completely melted.

Ice Retention

In direct sunlight, the black cooler ran out of ice first, after about five days. The blue one lasted six days, and the white cooler took the crown, hanging on for seven days—a full week! However, if the outside temps hadn’t dropped so much those last two days, I’m pretty sure it would have been done after six days.

I was surprised that the blue cooler performed more closely to the black cooler than the white one. I expected the opposite, that the black cooler would be extremely hot compared to other colors. Instead, it appeared that the white cooler stayed dramatically cooler than an ice chest of any other color.

While the black cooler struggled in direct sunlight, the white cooler proved to be the winner, with the blue cooler falling in the middle. And let’s be honest, 5 days with cubed ice in 90-degree temps is still pretty awesome!

In case you think you had it all figured from the start, there’s a twist.

The Shade Test: Does Color Matter Without Sun?

In the shade test, all coolers were placed in a shaded area in my backyard with no direct sunlight. They were on the north facing side of a fence with big shade trees above and all around them.

Temperatures during this test were cooler, ranging in the low 70s, so I modified the test a bit. I didn’t want to fill them completely full with ice again or else the test could have lasted a few weeks, and I wanted to move on with my life.

Instead, I put a single 10 pound bag of ice in each cooler with a single water bottle (with a hole in the lid so I could take the temperature). I checked them once per day until the ice was gone.

Here’s what we found.

Lid Temperatures

All three coolers maintained nearly identical lid temperatures, basically matching the ambient outside air temperature.

Internal Air Temperatures

The differences in the internal air temperatures among the three coolers were negligible as well, with less than a 1°F variation between the white and black models. That small of a difference could even be explained by instrument error.

Temperature of the Contents

Same story on the temperature of the water in the water bottles—no difference.

Ice Retention

Each cooler retained ice for 3 days before melting completely in full shade.

The results were clear: when coolers are kept in the shade, color has no significant impact on performance.

Expert Opinions: What Cooler Brands Say

To add context to my findings, I sent anonymous emails to the customer service departments of nine cooler manufacturers and asked them if color affects ice retention. Here’s what they said:

• RTIC, Coleman, and Cordova: Claimed cooler color does not impact performance. They were wrong.
• Igloo and Blue Coolers: Acknowledged color differences in direct sunlight but said the effect is minimal in shade. Correct.
• Orion and ORCA: Found no significant differences in their internal tests. They should test more.
• Yeti: Offered conflicting responses, suggesting color both does and doesn’t matter. They don’t know and/or don’t care.
• KONG: Never responded.

I was surprised to see that most cooler companies haven’t paid much attention to this. No matter, we figured it out.

Key Findings and Practical Advice

From my tests, here’s what you need to know:

1. In Direct Sunlight: Color matters. White coolers stay cooler and retain ice longer, with black coolers heating up quickly and melting ice faster.
2. In Shade: Color has no meaningful impact on performance.
3. For Camping or Short Trips: The real-world difference in performance—typically a day or less—may not matter much, even in full sun. So maybe just get the color you like.
4. For Long, Sunny Adventures: If you’re boating, camping in the desert, or leaving your cooler exposed, opt for a white or light-colored cooler to maximize performance.

Ultimately, your cooler’s color matters most in extreme, sunny conditions. For everyday use, especially in shaded areas, any color will work just fine.

I have tested more than 60 coolers for camping and outdoor recreation. If you’re shopping for an ice chest, here are my top picks for the Best Coolers based on real-world use.

When Does Cooler Color Matter Most?

Our tests confirm that cooler color does matter—but only in specific situations. In direct sunlight, darker coolers absorb more heat, causing ice to melt faster. However, in shaded or overcast conditions, color differences become negligible. For most outdoor enthusiasts, the impact of cooler color is minimal unless you’re planning long, sunny outings.

Consider your use case:

• Boating or Beach Trips: Choose a white or light-colored cooler to reflect heat and stay cooler longer.
• Camping in Shade: Color won’t make a noticeable difference—focus on other features like insulation or size.
• Overland Adventures: If your cooler rides on a roof rack or truck bed, lighter colors are better for reducing heat absorption.

Want to see how your favorite cooler brand compares? Check out our ultimate 38-Cooler Ice Retention Challenge to discover which coolers outperform the rest, regardless of color. Watch the full video here.

Summary Data Tables

The post Tested: Does Cooler Color Really Matter for Ice Retention? appeared first on Outdoor Empire | Outdoor Gear Reviews and Pro Tips.

After extensive research into modern hunting rifles that are currently produced and chambered in .30-06 Springfield, Ron and I came up with a short list of about 20 rifles from reputable brands that we wanted to test. Then we managed to beg for and borrow a dozen of them for hands-on testing and review.

With Ron as the primary evaluator, we put them up against each other at the range where Ron must have shot a couple hundred rounds sighting in scopes, shooting groups with different loads, and having a little fun to boot. Having handled, shot, and compared these twelve rifles side-by-side firsthand, this is our report on the best 30-06 rifles that are worthy of your consideration.

The 12 Best .30-06 Rifles: Tested and Reviewed

1. Best for the Money: Howa Model 1500
2. Best Budget: Mossberg Patriot Synthetic
3. Upgrade Pick: Sako 90 Quest
4. Best Lever Action: Browning BLR Lightweight ’81 Stainless Takedown
5. Best Semi-Auto: Benelli R1 Endurance
6. Best Looking: Weatherby M307 Adventure
7. Also Great: Savage Model 110 Trail Hunter
8. CZ 600 American
9. Winchester Model 70 Featherweight
10. Christensen Arms Ridgeline
11. Winchester Model 1895
12. Browning BAR Mark III

DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Many links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on a link we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

All of the rifles included in this review were temporarily loaned to us for free by their manufacturer, a distributor, or in some cases, a friend of a friend. Each company agreed to let us evaluate them as is, on our terms, with no strings attached. Nobody paid for a rifle to be included and the companies were not allowed to preview or comment on the content in advance. We maintained full editorial control over both the videos produced on Ron Spomer Outdoors and this article. What we say is what we think and we did our best to simply share our real experience with you.

Ron Spomer and I did this project together as a sequel to .308 Winchester Week, a video series I co-hosted with him on his straight-shooting YouTube channel in 2023. It was a pleasure for me to work with Ron again this time around on .30-06 Springfield Week in the Spring of 2024. Ron is incredibly knowledgable about firearms, hunting, and wildlife conservation. The opinions expressed in this article reflect both his and my experience with these rifles.

Accuracy Comparison Table

Here is a summarized chart of the group sizes (in inches) we saw from our range test. A more detailed table can be found near the end of the article if you’re interested in muzzle velocities as well.

1. Best Value .30-06 Rifle: Howa 1500

The Howa Model 1500 barreled action is like a pair of Nike sneakers. The core product provides reliable quality, but you can pick the colors and look you like best. The Howa 1500 we used for this review had a carbon fiber stock from Stocky Stocks that made it feel like a rifle that costs twice as much, but you can find this rifle starting around $600. From what we saw, that’s a fantastic value.

Best Value

Howa 1500

Pros:

• Accurate
• Affordable entry point
• Mild recoil
• Grows with you

Cons:

• Hard to find sometimes
• May not shoot all ammo well

Check Price at Guns.com

May be out of stock. Many configurations exist.

Key Specifications

• Action: bolt, 2-lug, push feed, M-16 style extractor
• Barrel: 22” cold hammer forged, threaded, free-floating
• Trigger: 2-stage HACT
• Measured trigger weight: 3.75 lbs
• Safety: 3-position
• Stock: Stocky Stock carbon fiber
• Magazine: 4-round hinged floorplate
• Weight: 6.1 lb
• Overall length: 42.5”
• MSRP: Starts around $600, approximately $1,100 as tested
• Our best group: 0.50 in

The Howa Model 1500’s free-floating barrel, threaded muzzle, and 3-position safety to lock your bolt create a foundation for a high-performance mountain hunting rifle. But what really blew us away was the accuracy of this rifle. It shot the single best group of all the rifles we tested (0.5 in) and ranked 4 out of 12 for overall average (including the additional shoot-off round) at 1.45 inch. It might have been the best overall if it weren’t for the fact that it didn’t like the Federal ammo we shot where it shot 2-inch groups or larger.

One thing we found irritating was how the picatinny rail gets in the way of reloading your rifle. Since it’s a hinged floorplate magazine, you load rounds from the top of the action. A full length pic rail leaves a tight gap that you’re bound to catch your thumb in and peel some skin off. This is no fault of the rifle itself, but word to the wise, just use split scope bases instead of a picatinny rail. You’ll save a little weight this way too.

The nice thing about the Howa Model 1500 is that you can start with a pretty basic trim and stock, then upgrade down the road to a nicer, lighter stock if you want. Started the first year buying a cheap molded plastic stock Howa 1500 along with a basic scope for around $700 total. The following year you can upgrade that optic to what you want. Then the year after that you can save up and upgrade the stock to something sleek and lightweight like the carbon fiber Stocky Stock we had on the one we tested. There are a lot of aftermarket stocks made for the Model 1500 and given how well it shoots, you’d start with a budget rifle and end up with a high-end, lightweight mountain rifle.

2. Best Budget .30-06 Rifle: Mossberg Patriot

Consistency was what impressed us the most about the Mossberg Patriot in our range test. While this budget rifle may be the least expensive of all the rifles we tested, it liked every load we shot through it. Every group was almost exactly an inch and a half.

Budget Pick

Mossberg Patriot Synthetic

Pros:

• Affordable for most folks
• Lightweight
• Consistent huntworthy accuracy
• Nice stock line

Cons:

• No bells or whistles
• Doesn't feel high quality

Check Price at Sportsman's Warehouse Check Price at Cabela's

We may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Key Specifications

• Action: bolt, spiral fluted, 2-lug, plunger ejector, push feed
• Barrel: 22” matte blue, fluted
• Trigger: LBA adjustable 2-7 lbs
• Measured trigger weight: 2.5 lbs
• Safety: 2-position, non-locking bolt
• Stock: synthetic
• Magazine: 5-round
• Weight: 6.5 lbs
• Overall length: 42 ¾”
• MSRP: $482
• Our best group: 1.46 in

We put a pic rail on the Mossberg Patriot, but the Synthetic stock trim we had comes with scope bases, making it even more of a bargain. The rear stock line of the Patriot shoots straight back and resembles the “rifleman’s rifle”, the Winchester M70. While there are no bells or whistles, when you bring it up to your eye it lands in the right place with ease. You can rely on it to be an effective all-around hunting rifle.

We love how lightweight this rifle is for the price. They even flute the barrel and the bolt which is uncommon at this price point. If you’re looking for a .30-06 rifle under $500 as a starter rifle that you can hunt just about anything with, the Mossberg Patriot is a hard one to beat.

3. Upgrade Pick: Sako 90 Quest

The Sako 90 is available in a number of trims and stocks starting at $2400 with the Sako 90 Quest near the top of the line with its advanced, ultra-ergonomic carbon stock. This was perhaps the most comfortable rifle I’ve ever shot and the fact that I shot a sub-MOA group on my first try is a testament to the rifle’s quality, especially since I’m not an overly impressive shooter.

Most Accurate

Sako 90 Quest

Pros:

• Magazine locks in place to avoid accidental drops
• Adjustable stock for different shooters
• Ergonomic pistol grip
• Accurate

Cons:

• Expensive

Check Price at EuroOptic

Hard to find.

Key Specifications

• Action: bolt, 3-lug, Sako extractor, dual plunger ejector
• Barrel: 24” cerakote stainless steel, cold hammer forged, fluted, threaded
• Trigger: single set, adjustable
• Measured trigger weight: 3 lbs
• Safety: 2 position, locks bolt, bolt release button 
• Stock: coated carbon fiber, adjustable
• Magazine: 5-round drop out aluminum and stainless
• Weight: 7 lbs 6 oz
• Overall length: 44 ¾”
• MSRP: $3,999
• Our best group: 0.85 in

The Sako 90 Quest is arguably the most accurate rifle in this review since it had the best average group size of all at 1.22 in. It was prety clear that if you find the right load, you’ll be shooting sub-MOA all day.

We like it when a gun manufacturer builds their receivers so that you can mount your scope directly onto it and the Sako 90 Quest does that. This ensures a precision mount for your optic as well as no extra weight from hardware.

The stock is what really sets the Quest apart from other Sako 90s. It’s a carbon fiber stock with a target style pistol grip, a flat forend for bench shooting, an adjustable comb height and length of pull on the stock, and an extra stud to accommodate both a sling and a bipod. Some folks (ahem, Ron) find that all the features of the stock can get in the way for a typical hunting scenario.

I was a big fan of that pistol grip and it fit my hand just perfectly. There’s a large palm swell and an undercut above where your thumb rests that makes your hand instantly nestle into the right spot. I felt like I had full lateral control and a solid grip on the rifle with it, so no wobbling side to side or up and down. Ron, however, doesn’t get excited about that style of grip and found the Sako to be too tight a fit between the grip and the trigger guard for his hands. He even busted a knuckle open from the recoil, which was mild. So if you have large fingers or where gloves a lot when shooting, take that into consideration. You may prefer a more traditional hunting stock.

4. Best Lever-Action .30-06: Browning BLR

There are two things that set the Browning BLR Lightweight ’81 Stainless Takedown apart from other lever-action rifles. And the ridiculously long model name isn’t one of them. The ‘Takedown’ part of the name does, however, hint at the first unique features which is the no-tool removal of the barrel for easy cleaning and maintenance. Not even the other BLR models do that.

Best Lever Gun

Browning BLR Lightweight 81 Stainless Takedown

Pros:

• Great woods hunting rifle
• Excellent accuracy for a lever action
• Smooth and reliable action

Cons:

• Heavier than a synthetic stock bolt-action

Check Price at Guns.com

This rifle may be out of stock.

Key Specifications

• Action: lever, rack and pinion, 4 position hammer, 6 lug rotating bolt
• Barrel: 22” stainless steel sporter, matte finish
• Trigger: integrated lever, gold
• Measured trigger weight:
• Safety: hammer, half cock folding
• Stock: satin finish laminate, straight grip
• Magazine: 4-round, detachable box
• Weight: 7 lbs 4 oz
• Overall length: 43”
• MSRP: $1,479.99
• Our best group: 0.67 in

The rack and pinion action is perhaps what makes the BLR truly stand out from its peers. When you work the lever there’s less chance of catching your finger in it and it’s just really smooth. The four-position hammer is pretty interesting as well with the typical hammer positions you’d expect (closed, half-cocked, fully-cocked) and then you can actually hinge the top of the hammer forward to further lock it in the half-cock position. It’s an added safety feature.

The drop out magazine doesn’t jut out which allows you to grip it right where it balances best when you hike around the woods.

We did run into a couple hiccups with the action chambering a new round. Eventually we noticed the rim of the magazine was a hair out of whack and once we bent it back into alignment we didn’t have another problem. The trigger is also pretty heavy and has some creep, which isn’t unusual for a lever gun, but it is for a precision rifle if that’s what you’re looking for.

We found the BLR really liked the heavier 175 and 180-grain bullets. While we had a couple two-inch groups, both Ron and I shot sub-MOA with it. But what really shocked us was that it won our final shootoff between a few of our favorite rifles from this list with the best 3-round group of all at 0.67 inch and the best average of three groups at 1.13 inch. We were impressed by how this lever-action hung right in there with the best 30-06 bolt-action rifles.

The Browning BLR is an excellent choice for a throwback hunter who wants a lever action with some modern features. You find plenty of those in the Lightweight ’81 Stainless Takedown trim especially. You can mount a scope on it and it has that quick rack and pinion action as well as potential for some nice accuracy.

5. Best Semi-Auto .30-06: Benelli R1

The Benelli R1 Endurance is a relatively new offering from Benelli where they are bringing some of their tried and trusted shotgun technology into a semi-automatic big game rifle. It currently only comes chambered in either .308 Winchester or .30-06 Springfield.

Best Semi-auto

Benelli R1 Endurance

Pros:

• Low recoil
• Threaded muzzle
• Quick and smooth cycling of rounds
• Built-in picatinny rail

Cons:

• Relatively poor accuracy limits uses
• Minor trigger creep

Check Price at Guns.com

May be out of stock.

Key Specifications

• Action: semi-auto, A.R.G.O (auto-regulating, gas-operated) system borrowed from shotguns, 3 lug rotary bolt
• Barrel: 22” steel, gloss blued, free-floating, threaded
• Trigger: 2-stage
• Measured trigger weight: 4 lbs
• Safety: crossbolt
• Stock: Synthetic Comfor Tech
• Magazine: 5-round
• Weight: 7.3 pounds
• Overall length: 44”
• MSRP: $1,829
• Our best group: 2.70 in

What we found most impressive on this rifle was the low recoil compared to all the other 30-06s we tested. Benelli’s Comfor Tech stock really came through here and we hadn’t even added a brake or a suppressor to the threaded muzzle. Ron felt just a little bit of creep in the trigger and preferred the magazine on the Browning BAR over this Benelli, but everything functioned smoothly and it ejected the empty casings smoothly, unlike the BAR.

The biggest problem we had with the R1 was the overall accuracy. At 3.80 inches, it had the worst average group size of all the rifles we shot. It may just require some extra maintenance or experimentation with different ammo, but those numbers won’t excite any precision shooter and it limits what you can use this rifle for. That said, both Ron and I eventually managed to hit a steel target at 200 yards just fine. Plus, the other semi-auto in the group, the BAR, didn’t shoot very accurately either. So perhaps there are just some tricks we don’t know with these autoloaders.

Keep in mind, however, that this is more than good enough for guys who are shooting hogs running through the woods at 50 yards. They’re more interested in speed and firepower than they are accuracy, and the R1 delivers on that. For driven hunts, this rifle would be a joy to work with and the flexibility of a threaded barrel makes it a versatile semi-auto rifle overall.

6. Beauty Contest Winner: Weatherby M307 Adventure

The Weatherby M307 Adventure lies at the intersection of the old and the new. They went back to the retro California style stock of the 1960’s that was Weatherby’s signature, but then added the first new Weatherby action in decades, the 307.

Best Looking

Weatherby M307 Adventure

Pros:

• Beautiful detailed wood stock
• Thoughtful design
• Threaded muzzle

Cons:

• More recoil than others
• Not as accurate as expected
• Heavy to pack around

Check Price at Guns.com

New model with limited availability.

Key Specifications

• Action: bolt, 2-lug, M16 extractor, plunger ejector, fluted bolt
• Barrel: 24”, graphite black cerakote, fluted, threaded
• Trigger: TriggerTech adjustable down to 2.5 lbs
• Measured trigger weight: 3 lbs
• Safety: 2 position, does not lock bolt
• Stock: Walnut with rosewood forend and grip cap and maple inlays
• Magazine: 4-round, hinged floor plate 
• Weight: 7 lbs 10 oz
• Overall length: 44 ¼”
• MSRP: $1,799
• Our best group: 1.30 in

The Weatherby M307 has a lot of potential. It’s set up to take all sorts of aftermarket appointments and the sexy wood stock isn’t just for looks. For example, the cheek piece on the butt of the stock is designed to reduce the amount of slap you might feel when the rifle recoils by sending the rifle underneath your cheek. This is appreciated given we felt more recoil out of this rifle compared to others.

This Weatherby didn’t quite meet our expectations for accuracy. Its best group was only 1.3 inch and while the average of 1.84 will certainly kill a deer, it probably won’t win any competitions. We usually got two good shots, but it was the third one that blew it off MOA. The windage was spot on, but the vertical crawled a bit.

If you like this rifle, though, try some different ammo until you find what it likes. We also noticed that even though the barrel appears to be floating, there’s a pressure point (likely epoxy) that adheres the stock to the barrel at one precise point. That is likely intended to improve accuracy, but it may be having the opposite effect in our case. The good news is you could take some sand paper and relieve that pressure to see if that helps improve accuracy as well.

If you like the Monte Carlo retro look with that beautiful wood stock and those accent inlays, this is a rifle that you’d be proud to hang on your wall. You can still take it to the field if you don’t mind a little extra weight and recoil.

7. Savage 110 Trail Hunter

New for 2024, the Savage Model 110 Trail Hunter is the second least expensive rifle on this list after the Mossberg. And yet, it shot some of the best groups of the whole field, including a half-incher. So much for having to pay the big bucks for an accurate rifle!

Also Great

Savage 110 Trail Hunter

Pros:

• Excellent MOA or better accuracy
• Good for both hunting and targets
• Affordable

Cons:

• Heavy for hunts on the move

Check Price at Guns.com

New for 2024. May be out of stock.

Key Specifications

• Action: bolt, 2-lug, push feed, plunger ejector
• Barrel: 22” carbon steel, tungsten cerakote, button rifled, threaded, medium heavy, free-floated
• Trigger: 2.5-6 lb adjustable AccuTrigger
• Measured trigger weight: 3.5 lbs
• Safety: 3-position tang
• Stock: Hogue overmolded in OD green
• Magazine: 4-round detachable box
• Weight: 8.2 lbs
• Overall length: 43 ¼”
• MSRP: $639
• Our best group: 0.51 in

Compared to all the other rifles we tried, this Savage just feels beefier in the hand. The cerakote finish on the medium heavy barrel sets the tone then the Hogue overmolded stock has a real rubbery, grippy feel to it. That would be nice in humidity or rain, but some folks won’t love it all the time. Ron noticed the stippled grip on the forend made it hang up more than he liked on the bench rest. That may be a concern to folks looking to do a lot of target shooting.

Of our more budget-friendly group of rifles we shot together, the Savage had the best average group size at 1.08 in. We did have one anomaly group in the final shoot-off with a different 165-grain bullet where it had a flyer that left us with a 2.82-inch group. But that was the exception, not the norm. Otherwise, this rifle held up to Savage’s reputation for excellent accuracy for the money.

While it may be contrary to the name of this rifle, in our opinion, this Savage 110 Trail Hunter is for your stand hunter, primarily due to the weight. But if you’re a burley fellow that’s willing to pack it to a ridgetop for a mule deer hunt where you’ll glass all day then make a longer shot, that works too.

8. CZ 600 American

The CZ 600 American, as the model name suggests, is a pretty traditional American hunting rifle with a few modernizations. The thing we like most about this rifle is the fit and finish. It simply looks and feels like a well-built rifle.

CZ 600 American

Pros:

• Looks and feels well-built
• Threaded muzzle
• Locking drop-out magazine
• Classic hunting rifle with modern features

Cons:

• Heavy
• Average accuracy

Check Price at Guns.com

We may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

Key Specifications

• Action: bolt, short extractor, controlled round feed, 3-lug, 60 deg bolt throw angle
• Barrel: 24” cold hammer forged, free-floating, threaded
• Trigger: single stage, 1-3 lbs adjustable 4 positions without removing receiver
• Measured trigger weight: 2 lbs
• Safety: tang, vertical, locks bolt, bolt release button
• Stock: black walnut
• Magazine: 5-round drop out, lockable
• Weight: 8 lbs 3 oz
• Overall length: 44.9”
• MSRP: $1,299
• Our best group: 1.23 in

I really like the CZ600’s bolt-release button that allows you to unload a round from the chamber without taking the gun off safe. It has a short bolt lift because it has three lugs instead of two, which makes it quick to cycle and keeps the bolt handle clear of a larger scope. The adjustable trigger has preset positions that are easily adjusted with a hex key. And the threaded muzzle is a nice 21st century touch to a classic hunting rifle.

This CZ 600 American is a good example of a 20th century walnut stock hunting rifle with some upgraded features like that safety mechanism and locking magazine that avoids accidental releases. If you appreciate a precision-made rifle with a wood stock and a classic feel to it, this CZ might be for you. And while it’s list price is well over $1,300, you can likely find it for $800-$900 if you shop around.

9. Winchester Model 70 Featherweight

We tried for months to get a hold of a current production Winchester Model 70 Featherweight factory rifle in .30-06, but we came up short. The M70 we tested was Ron’s personal rifle with a custom barrel and different scope, so the range results from this rifle aren’t a direct comparison with the others. We also handled a current Featherweight, but it wasn’t a 30-06. However, since a lot of folks looking interested in the traditional .30-06 cartridge are likely equally as interested in a classic hunting rifle, we had to include it on this list.

Classic Hunting Rifle

Winchester Model 70 Featherweight

Pros:

• Traditional look and feel
• Reliable controlled round feed
• Great for active hunting

Cons:

• Heavy compared to newer guns
• No threaded barrel

Check Price at Bass Pro Shops Check Price at Cabela's

May be out of stock.

Key Specifications

• Action: bolt, 2-lug, round feed with claw extractor, blade type ejector
• Barrel: 22” steel, featherweight profile, free-floating, polished
• Trigger: M.O.A. stainless steel
• Measured trigger weight:
• Safety: 3-position
• Stock: black walnut, satin finished, Decelerator recoil pad
• Magazine: 5-round, hinged floorplate
• Weight: 7 lbs 0 oz
• Overall length: 42 ¾”
• MSRP: $1,279.99

The controlled round feed in the bolt of the Winchester is one of the main features that earned this rifle the name, the rifleman’s rifle. The claw extractor grabs so much of the rim of your casing that it’s rare to have an issue feeding a new round. I’m a big fan of the three-position safety that let’s you lock the bolt, or free the bolt but lock the trigger.

Traditional hunters who are fond of that blued steel and walnut look will appreciate the Winchester Model 70 Featherweight. Ron says, “It’s the epitome of the best 20th century hunting rifle.” That’s quite a statement coming from a man who has probably shot thousands of rifles in his career and take game with hundreds. The M70 in .30-06 Springfield is poised to to hunt deer, elk, moose, and more.

10. Christensen Arms Ridgeline

The Christensen Arms Ridgeline is a known to be a precision rifle, but it shot a bit erratic for us. When we requested a rifle from Christensen to include in this project, they didn’t have one in .30-06 available on the shelf to send out, so they built one for us in a hurry. We saw some surprising results from it in the range test.

Christensen Arms Ridgeline

Pros:

• Lightweight
• Durable carbon fiber stock and barrel
• Muzzle brake included
• Company offers MOA guarantee

Cons:

• We had accuracy issues that require manufacturer intervention

Check Price at Guns.com Check Price at Sportsman's Warehouse

Hard to find in .30-06.

Key Specifications

• Action: bolt, 2-lug, M16 extractor, plunger ejector, fluted bolt
• Barrel: 22” 416R stainless steel, carbon fiber wrapped, stainless steel 2 in muzzle brake, free floating, threaded, sporter
• Trigger: Trigger Tech adjustable
• Measured trigger weight: 3.5 lbs
• Safety: 2 position, does not lock bolt
• Stock: carbon fiber composite
• Magazine: 4-round internal hinged floor plate
• Weight: 6.3 lbs (5 lbs 15 oz at home)
• Overall length: 44 ¼”
• MSRP: $1,799
• Our best group: .95 in

The best group we got out of it was indeed sub-MOA at 0.95 inch, but that was an exception. We got a few two-inch groups and a few others that were as much as six inches in size. There was especially a lot of horizontal wandering going on. Some shots even flew off paper. We even shot this rifle more off camera with different scopes and things to rule out user error or scope defects, but all that checked out.

Fortunately Christensen has a sub-MOA guarantee and a reputation for quality. When we contacted them about what we were seeing, they responded right away. We sent the rifle back so they could dive into it deeper and address the issue. In the end, we expect there was something going on with the particular rifle we had, so don’t expect this to be an issue with every Ridgeline. It’s worth noting that .30-06 Springfield isn’t the most popular cartridge for these modern precision rifles, so perhaps it doesn’t get as much love and attention as some other calibers.

Besides the hiccups, we really liked the fit and finish of the rifle, the carbon fiber stock, and even the paint job on it. It brings in some of the fancy features guys like nowadays like the carbon-wrapped barrel. And despite the 6.3 pound weight they advertise, we weighted it at only 5.9 pounds on our scale. That’s impressively lightweight and it allows you to put a bigger, better, heavier scope on it but still end up around 8 pounds total field weight.

11. Winchester Model 1895

The Winchester Model 1895 in .30-06 was the first lever-action rifle chambered for a modern high-pressure cartridge with a bottleneck and no rim. This rifle has a lot of history. Theodore Roosevelt took it to Africa, the Russian Empire purchased it as a military rifle, and this was John Moses Browning’s last lever action that he ever designed.

Winchester Model 1895

Pros:

• Classic look and feel
• Quick shooter
• Accommodates large hands and gloves well
• Safety mechanism (uncommon on lever guns)

Cons:

• High recoil
• Doesn't accommodate an optic easily

View at Guns.com View at Sportsman's Warehouse

This rifle may be out of stock.

Key Specifications

• Action: lever, rebounding hammer, rear locking bars
• Barrel: 24” steel, blued finish, gold bead iron sight
• Trigger: lever action
• Measured trigger weight:
• Safety: 2 position top-tang
• Stock: black walnut, straight grip
• Magazine: 4-round, blind, top-load
• Weight: 8 lbs 0 oz
• Overall length: 42”
• MSRP: $1,469.99

The magazine is nested in the lever, but it’s fixed in place, so you load it from the top. The lever has a clever design that accommodates folks with fat fingers or gloves on.

The Winchester 1895 is great for woods hunting, but it’s not a modern rifle. If you’re interested in high accuracy, this is not the one for you and be aware that this rifle in this caliber has more recoil than many others. But it’s a real fun rifle to shoot. So much fun that it was even a favorite of Pancho Villa, true story.

We borrowed this rifle from a friend of a friend who shoots in open sight competitions with it. We didn’t want to mess with his setup, so we didn’t test it with the same scope as the others.

12. Browning BAR Mark III

The Browning Automatic Rifle (BAR) was originally developed by John Moses Browning in the early 1900s and it was later adopted as a squadron rifle in the U.S. Military. The BAR Mark III is the modern, civilian, sporting version of that and it’s popular among hunters in North America and Europe who do a lot of active or group hunting for running deer, boar, and other game.

Runner-up Semi-auto

Browning BAR Mark III

Pros:

• Light consistent trigger
• Semi-detachable magazine easy to load
• Nicely balanced

Cons:

• Inconsistent accuracy
• Problems ejecting

Check Price at Guns.com

May be out of stock.

Key Specifications

• Action: autoloading, gas piston, 7-lug rotating bolt
• Barrel: 22” sporter, polished bluel
• Trigger: single stage
• Measured trigger weight: 3.25 lbs
• Safety: crossbolt
• Stock: Turkish walnut, shim adjustable cast and comb, inflex recoil pad
• Magazine: 4-round detachable box, hinged floorplate
• Weight: 7 lbs 2 oz
• Overall length: 44 3/8”
• MSRP: $1,479.99
• Our best group: 1.50 in

The BAR has a lighter trigger than Ron anticipated, but that was a nice thing about it. But we experienced one major issue repeatedly–it wouldn’t eject the empty case after a shot. We never managed to sort that out, but we expect it’s something that could be resolved with some intervention from Browning under warranty on a new rifle or a qualified gunsmith.

The magazine is unique because it’s like a drop out, but it’s on a hinge so that when you release it, it won’t just fall out in your hand or on the ground. That’s convenient for active hunting when you may want to reload on the move. Ron couldn’t stop saying how much he liked it.

How We Tested These Rifles

This review isn’t just a regurgitation of specs, features, and crowdsourced opinions from the interweb. We actually had all of these rifles in our possession and evaluated them together over the course of several days. Here’s how we did it.

1. Cleaned barrels. The first thing we did when Ron and I got together for this was we unboxed and inspected all the rifles to ensure they were in good working order. We found most of them had dirty barrels, so we cleaned the barrel on each gun in the same way.

2. Mounted identical scopes. With clean barrels we proceeded to mounting the rifle scopes. Thanks to Maven we had four identical scopes, the Maven RS1.2 (2.5-15 x 44 FFP), which helped rule out variations in optics as the reason some rifles shot better or worse. Talley provided rings for all the scopes and, if the rifle didn’t come with a picatinny rail we added one from Talley as well. This enabled us to work with these rifles in batches of three to four at a time, then move the scopes to the next cohort.

3. Sighted in scopes. It was a lot of mounting, bore sighting, and firing a few rounds through each rifle to get on paper and close to zero before the real shooting began. We weren’t looking for a perfect zero, just close enough so we could aim at the same point and get our groups on the target.

4. Shot groups with different loads. Once each rifle was dialed in, we shot three groups of three shots with three different loads at 100 yards, letting the barrel cool between groups. We recorded the group sizes and bullet velocities. We used ammunition from different manufacturers with different bullet types and weights to try and find a load each rifle might like. After we shot all the rifles, we picked a few of our favorites to do a final shoot-off with a couple new loads.

• Remington 150-grain UMC
• Federal 165-grain Trophy Bonded Tip
• Federal 175-grain Terminal Ascent
• Winchester (used for sighting in scopes)
• Norma (used in final shoot-off)

5. Compared side-by-side. Besides the range test we compared the function, fit, finish, and features of each rifle. Naturally the few rifles we ran into minor issues with didn’t rise to the top as our favorites. And it goes without saying that our opinions on certain features or furnishings are subjective. Ultimately, you should pick a rifle based on your own tastes and priorities.

Range Test Data

If you just want to see the raw data we recorded, here you go. Though we did run into some technical difficulties with the chronograph and some good ole’ human error once or twice, so the data wasn’t all recorded perfectly, but what you see in the table below is reliable.

NOTE: Since it was borrowed from a friend of Ron’s and we didn’t want to mess with his setup, we didn’t mount a scope on the Winchester 1895. Instead, we shot it with open sights. We also didn’t use the same Maven scope on Ron’s personal Winchester Model 70 which is a custom rifle with a scope he already had mounted. Since it’s not a stock factory rifle (and the factory Featherweight M70 we had was not a 30-06), it wasn’t on the same plane as the others anyway. That’s why for these two rifles we didn’t fully include them in the shoot-off, record all the data, or follow the same shooting protocol as the others.

Why Trust This Review

In-depth research. Hands-on experience. Expertise.

This isn’t a regurgitation of press releases, opinions, and “that one time I shot that rifle a few years back.” We went through several months of research and planning, as well as a lot of working the phones and emails to round up a collection of currently produced .30-06 rifles. We managed to not purchase any rifles out of our own pockets this time (which made the ordeal more tolerable for our significant others), but we spent plenty of our own money on all the logistics, supplies, and fuel to make this happen.

We treated all the rifles the same regardless of how we acquired them. All loaners were lent to us with no strings attached with the condition that we could give an honest review based on our firsthand experience. We’re not in the business of selling rifles anyhow, we’re simply providing helpful information for educational purposes that will hopefully help you know what to expect from these rifles.

Ron has been a student and teacher of firearms for his entire career and there are few people with a wider breadth of knowledge on the topic than him. I know I learned more from him about firearms and shooting in a few days working with him on this and another project than I have my entire life on my own.

One Last Shot

If you’re looking for a new .30-06 hunting rifle, the good thing is, you have a lot of options both new and used. With a cartridge that’s been around for over 100 years, you can always find one. It’s a great all-around big game rifle caliber which is why it was the first rifle I purchased when I started out deer hunting about a decade ago. Decide which features are most important to you, what distances you want to shoot at and accuracy you realistically require for the hunting you plan to do, then get the rifle YOU think is best. As Ron put it, your rifle should help you enjoy your experience outdoors, it doesn’t necessarily need to be the sharpest shooter in the shed.

If you’re looking for something sexy, look at that Weatherby. For something inexpensive but reliable, the Mossberg Patriot will do the trick. For a semi-auto Ron preferred the Browning BAR, mainly for the look and feel, but I prefer the Benelli R1. The Browning BLR is a great blend of an old-timer lever-action rifle with a modern twist. Ron and I both agreed that out of this group of rifles, the Howa 1500 offered the best value for the money. But if money is no object, that Sako 90 Quest is amazing. I think I’m ready to trade my Hyundai in for one.

The post The Best .30-06 Rifles of 2024 appeared first on Outdoor Empire | Outdoor Gear Reviews and Pro Tips.

The abundant advertising and high price tags might make you think there is more to an ice chest than there really is. But fortunately, they’re really not that complicated and, while you can, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get a good one. High-end rotomolded coolers like YETI, RTIC, and Kong might make good sense for backcountry hunters who need to keep 300 pounds of meat cool for a week with little ice, but there are less expensive options that do the job just fine for tailgates and beach days.

Out or more than five dozen coolers that I have thoroughly vetted, one of these ten will likely suit just about any outdoor fun-haver. But if you’re still not satisfied, be sure and check out our more curated reviews like the best coolers with wheels.

After you scroll through our top picks, be sure to read on about how we tested, how to choose your next cooler, and all the geeky data and analysis from our research.

EDITOR’S NOTE: This cooler review was entirely revised and republished on May 10, 2024 by Chase Fly in order to include currently available products, remove discontinued ones, and provide more insight into how these bad boys (and girls) were tested.

DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Many links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on a link we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

The Best Coolers of 2024

1. Best Overall Hard Cooler: Maluna 70
2. Most Versatile: Orion Core 65
3. Also Great: Orca 58
4. Best with Wheels: BrüMate BrüTank 55
5. Best YETI: YETI Roadie 48
6. Budget Pick: Coleman 316 Series 62 Qt Wheeled
7. Best Small: Coho 24 Qt Injection Molded
8. Best Soft: Cordova Backcountry Class Daypack
9. Best Backpack: ICEMULE Pro Large
10. Most Innovative: Oyster Tempo

Just so you know, of the 60+ coolers we have at Outdoor Empire, roughly a quarter of them were sent to us as media test samples with no strings attached, meaning we didn’t pay for them but we can still say (or not say) whatever we want about them. We purchased the rest at regular retailers and prices like anyone else. Of the coolers covered in this buyer’s guide, the Orion, Orca, and Oyster were sent to us for free. We treat and test all gear the same, regardless of how we acquire it, and there are no paid placements or sponsors in this review.

Here are some things I have discovered while searching for the best cooler for camping, hunting, fishing, tailgating, the beach, or simply sneaking in booze where it’s not welcome.

• The best cooler probably comes from a brand most people haven’t heard of.
• Everyone expects different things from a cooler. The best one for you may not be the best one for my mom, which is why I offer several suggestions below.
• There are coolers at every price point that can retain ice for far longer than most people will ever require.
• Gear review sites like us can’t earn affiliate commissions on some of the top performers. We don’t mind, but that may be why you don’t see some of our top picks in the 1,652,347 other Best Cooler articles on the web.

1. Best Overall Hard Cooler

Best Overall

Maluna 70

4.9

List Price: $390

Capacity: 70 qts

Weight: 37 lbs

Ice Retention*: 17 days, 62 points, rank 1

Construction Type: Rotomolded

Warranty: Lifetime

View on Amazon

*Based on our 38 cooler ice retention test in mild weather (highs 60-75F, lows 40-50F).

Outdoor Empire Score 4.9
Ice Retention 5 | Build Quality 5 | Durability 5 | Features 4.5 | Warranty and Service 5

The reason I picked the Maluna 70 as the best overall hard sided cooler is because it nails the fundamentals. It handily won my ice retention challenge where I bought 1700 pounds of ice and tested 38 coolers simultaneously. It was mild weather, but the Maluna held ice for 17 days! It beat the Cabela’s Polar Ice Cap by one day and the next two coolers on this list (Orion and Orca) by 3 full days.

While I wouldn’t expect that kind of ice retention in the dead of summer (you can bank on around 50% of that, based on my experience), the Maluna’s Unhinged design is built to optimize ice retention. A thick, 3-finned freezer gasket provides an air tight seal thanks to the self-tensioning rubber straps on the front and rear of the cooler which help apply even pressure around the entire lid. The ice box has a tapered shape because the insulation is thicker up higher where ice recedes and warm air typically prevails. They simply put more insulation where it matters most, and I found it to be quite effective.

The Maluna checks all the boxes of what you should expect from a high-end cooler at a premium price point. Its rotomolded, thick plastic shell is not only durable but also feels high-quality. It’s internal capacity is 70 quarts, as advertised, which isn’t the case with every cooler. The Maluna is IGBC bear-resistant certified, having passed official testing and approval—I checked that personally. It also comes with an excellent lifetime warranty a few practical features like a bottle opener, a padlock hole, and a quick-flow drain.

This made in the USA cooler even has a built-in pressure regulator under the bottle opener. This makes it much easier to open the lid after a big elevation gain, like from your house to the mountains, which can make some air tight coolers a boar to pry open. The rubber latches are easier to use than many others and I personally like the molded handles on the sides compared to dangly ropes. They keep the cooler from dragging or banging against your shins when you carry it.

A downside of this cooler is that it’s heavy, though the same could be said for any rotomolded cooler. And if you’re interested in a lot of add-ons, accessories, or attachments, there are better options than the Maluna. You can get a basket for it, but no wheel kits or rod holders.

Who should get this? Hunters, anglers, rafters, and campers who take extended trips. In a smaller size, it’s a perfect back-of-the-truck cooler for farming, construction, and landscaping, keeping drinks and lunches cold while taking a beating and reducing ice costs. It’s also ideal for emergency preparedness to keep food cold at home for a long time. For better portability, consider the YETI Roadie 48, or for a cheaper option with good ice retention, look at the Coleman 316 Series.

2. Most Versatile Cooler

Best for the Money

Orion Core 65

4.9

List Price: $335

Capacity: 65 qts

Weight: 36 lbs

Ice Retention*: 14 days, 55 points, rank 3

Construction Type: Rotomolded

Warranty: 10 years

View at Jackson Kayak

*Based on our 38 cooler ice retention test in mild weather (highs 60-75F, lows 40-50F).

FYI, the link above is NOT an affiliate link, but Jackson Kayak did offer our readers a discount. Use code DYMFJ9TET571 at checkout for 5% Off!

Outdoor Empire Score 4.9
Ice Retention 5 | Build Quality 5 | Durability 5 | Features 4.5 | Warranty and Service 5

Based on the Outdoor Empire score, the Orion Core 65 tied for the top spot. The Maluna broke the tie when it beat the Orion by a couple days in our ice challenge and by having a lifetime warranty. The Orion, however, is 15% less expensive than the Maluna and cheaper than half of the coolers on this list. It offers excellent value with premium cooler features like padlock holes, IGBC bear-resistant certification, a freezer-style gasket, rotomolded construction, and thick insulation. Plus, it has enough bottle openers (4) for a frat party and enough tie-down strap slots (6) for a covered wagon. Though what really sets the Orion apart as the most versatile cooler is all the optional add-ons you can get for it like accessory rails, rod holders, traction pads, and a well-designed wheel kit which I’m still hoping to get my hands on.

Orion delivers on its advertised capacity of 65 quarts, unlike some other cooler brands. The rope handles are perfectly sized to prevent banging your knuckles or dragging the cooler on the ground. The rubber latches with aluminum cams work well but occasionally prevent the cooler from closing, risking either smashing your fingers or letting cold air escape. I’m sure some folks will like the Maluna latches and handles better, though I still love the Orion’s. If you’re serious about one of these two coolers, take a moment to watch my YouTube video about them and think about your own personal preference on that.

The Orion is extremely durable—you can sit or stand on it, or even drop it on concrete. I’ve done all of that without leaving a mark. Jackson Kayak makes its Orion Core coolers in Tennessee where they make their famous kayaks. While not everyone will love their vibrant multi-color designs, I sure do. However, without a finger hold, opening the cooler’s lid can bend back fingernails and cause involuntary cursing. Pull up on the latch instead. Despite this minor flaw, it’s still a solid choice. In my blind customer service test, they responded within well under 24 hours (only about 1 business hour) with a friendly, personalized, and helpful answer to my inquiry.

Who should get this? Fishermen, especially kayak anglers, and people who do a lot of different things outdoors. It’s great for camping and could be made great for the beach with the add-on wheels. If you like customizing your truck, you’ll like the Orion cooler. For something easier to find that performs just as well but with fewer bells and whistles, look at the Orca.

3. Also Great

Also Great

ORCA 58

4.7

List Price: $360

Capacity: 58 qts

Weight: 36 lbs

Ice Retention*: 14 days, 55 points, rank 3

Construction Type: Rotomolded

Warranty: Lifetime

View on Amazon View at Cabela's

*Based on our 38 cooler ice retention test in mild weather (highs 60-75F, lows 40-50F).

Compare Prices: Bass Pro Shops, Sportsman’s Warehouse, Camp Saver, Walmart

Outdoor Empire Score 4.7
Ice Retention 5 | Build Quality 5 | Durability 5 | Features 4 | Warranty and Service 4.5

Where the Orca 58 cooler really excels is in ice retention. While it hasn’t won any of my ice challenges, it consistently finishes near the top despite being slightly smaller than those that beat it. It lasted 8 days in my hot weather ice challenge, only one day short of the Orion. But then it tied the Orion in the mild weather round. The Orca fans who commented on our YouTube videos also swear that it’s among the best. This cooler is as solid as a rock and can take a beating. It’s made in the USA, it’s sold in many retailers which makes it easy to find, and they offer a lifetime warranty on it.

I really like the more square shape compared to other more rectangular coolers. It makes it especially stable to stand on, so if you’re an angler who wants to use your cooler as a fishing platform on a boat or from shore, this is a good bet. The included cargo net on the back is also handy to throw in some fishing gear or stuff you don’t want to get buried in the sand at the beach. And the net material doesn’t feel cheap, it’s thick and durable and feels like it should last a long time.

Like other rotomolded coolers, the Orca is heavy and a bit burdensome to lug around, but the nylon handles on this one make it pretty easy with a partner. One downside is that the well-branded Orca tail latches are very hard to pull and use. This is good if you want to keep kids out of it, but bad if you don’t want to put out much of an effort to grab another cold one since it’s often a two-handed ordeal.

Who should get this? Serious campers, hunters, boaters, and anglers that want awesome insulation and maybe a platform to stand on. Convenience shoppers will appreciate that the Orca is easy to find in many different stores, even Walmart. For even better ice retention, consider the Maluna, or look at the YETI Tundra Haul for a similar wheeled alternative.

4. Best Wheeled Cooler

Best Rolling Cooler

BrüMate BrüTank 55qt

4.5

List Price: $400

Capacity: 55 qts

Weight: 40 lbs

Ice Retention*: 13 days, 52 points, rank 10

Construction Type: Rotomolded

Warranty: 5 years

View on Amazon View at Moosejaw

*Based on our 38 cooler ice retention test in mild weather (highs 60-75F, lows 40-50F).

Compare Prices: Scheels

Outdoor Empire Scores 4.5
Ice Retention 4.5 | Build Quality 5 | Durability 4 | Features 5 | Warranty and Service 4

The BrüMate BrüTank 55-Quart Rolling cooler dethroned my previous pick for the best cooler with wheels, the YETI Tundra Haul. The BrüTank offers way more value for a lower price and it holds ice longer. Even though it’s expensive, it comes with a bunch of extra stuff like a basket and foam seat top so you feel like you’re getting your money’s worth. But they didn’t leave out the bottle opener, padlock holes, or rugged design that everyone else offers, which now seem boring. It’s rotomolded and rugged with a high-end fit and finish. With quality components, a fat tethered drain plug , and beefy, easy-to-use latches, it simply looks and feels nicer than perhaps any other cooler I’ve seen.

Portability and fun are key functions of the BrüTank. It may not be compact or easy to fit in a small vehicle, but it offers enough capacity inside for anything from a day at the beach to an extended camping trip, while still being easy to move around. The tow handle is ergonomic with nice grips that extend outward so you can walk along side the ice chest and avoid getting bashed in the calves like you do with less thoughtfully designed wheeled coolers like the Pelican Elite. It also locks in place making both pushing and pulling a cinch. With its never-flat wheels that are just the right diameter and width, the BrüTank rolls easily over any terrain, even sand and rocks.

Perhaps the best thing about this cooler, though, is that it’s ready to party. The integrated 2.8 gallon drink tank with a tap on the outside and a pressure cap on top (to adjust the flow) means you can mix and chill your favorite drink inside next to the ice and snacks, then serve it directly from the cooler without opening the lid and letting all the cold air escape on a hot day. I don’t even like parties, but this cooler has me considering it.

Who should get this? People looking for a highly portable cooler primarily for social gatherings like beach days, parties, and sporting events. This works great for camping too. For a more compact wheeled cooler, consider the YETI Roadie 48, or look at the Coleman 316 Roller for a less expensive alternative.

5. Best YETI Cooler

Best from YETI

YETI Roadie 48

4.3

List Price: $400

Capacity: 48 qts

Weight: 28 lbs

Ice Retention*: 14 days, 54 points, rank 6

Construction Type: Injection molded

Warranty: 5 years

View on Amazon View at YETI

*Based on our 38 cooler ice retention test in mild weather (highs 60-75F, lows 40-50F).

Compare Prices: Sportsman’s Warehouse, Cabela’s, Bass Pro Shops, Academy Sports, Scheels, Sportsman’s Guide, Camp Saver

Outdoor Empire Score 4.3
Ice Retention 4.5 | Build Quality 5 | Durability 4 | Features 4 | Warranty and Service 4

YETI made an unprecedented move this year by dropping the price of some coolers, including the YETI Roadie 48, which now costs $50 less than I paid. While it’s priced similarly to the BrüTank (which is larger and comes with extra accessories), the Roadie 48 is still my favorite YETI cooler due to its impressive ice retention. In our 38-cooler ice challenge, the Roadie 48 outlasted any cooler in its size category and even several larger ones. It beat the Tundra Haul by two days in my test and even surpassed the Roadie 60 in other reports I’ve read. Its narrow, deep shape likely contributes to this outstanding performance.

Portability is another strong suit. The wheels roll smoothly over different surfaces, and its compact size fits into nearly any car. It’s lighter than the competition, and the side handles make it easy to lift. The retractable tow handle works smoothly and is sturdy enough to haul a full load without bending. This is a refreshing improvement over the likes of flimsy tow handles like what you find on the RovR RollR 45.

Some things that surprised me: it’s injection-molded, not rotomolded, which keeps it lightweight but isn’t the same as the Tundra series. It’s made in Thailand, not the USA, and isn’t IGBC bear-resistant certified, which won’t cut it in certain national parks and camping areas where that’s required.

The Roadie latches are far easier to use than the traditional Tundra latches and you still get the high-quality fit and finish expected from YETI. While the accessories are overpriced, the included dry goods tray is a nice touch. YETI’s 5 year warranty is average these days when competitors are offering 10 years or lifetime.

Who should get this? Die-hard YETI fans should get a Roadie 48 for its convenience and portability compared to the classic Tundra coolers. And for anyone who doesn’t mind the premium price tag, the Roadie is a great all-around cooler. Hunters and anglers are better off with something like the Maluna and if you camp in bear territory you should go with an IGBC approved cooler like the YETI Tundra Haul.

6. Best Budget Cooler

Budget Pick

Coleman 316 Series 62 Quart Wheeled Cooler

3.1

List Price: $75

Capacity: 62 qts

Weight: 15 lbs

Ice Retention*: 9 days, 40 points, rank 35

Construction Type: Blow molded

Warranty: 1 year

View on Amazon View at Sportsman's

*Based on our 38 cooler ice retention test in mild weather (highs 60-75F, lows 40-50F).

Compare Prices: Walmart, Academy Sports

Outdoor Empire Score 3.1
Ice Retention 3.5 | Build Quality 3.5 | Durability 3 | Features 3.5 | Warranty and Service 2

Don’t be alarmed by the lower Outdoor Empire score or the ice retention rank of the Coleman 316 Series 62-quart rolling cooler. The average price of the coolers I handpicked and tested after extensive research is $300, but this Coleman costs a fraction of that (I paid $60 at Walmart). Despite this, it lasted 9 days in our ice challenge, outperforming its advertised 6-day capacity.

If you’re shopping for a cooler under $100, you’re likely choosing between Coleman or Igloo. I’ve tested both brands, and the Colemans consistently outperform their Igloo counterparts in ice retention and durability. I’ve thrown this one off a truck onto asphalt and hurled it around to push its limits, yet it still looks almost new. Made in the USA and widely available at major retailers, I was impressed by the responsiveness of Coleman’s customer service when I contacted them anonymously. Although the one-year warranty is below average, Coleman once offered to replace my cooler even after the warranty expired.

I have a couple of 316 Series coolers and what I love about them is that they provide more capacity with less weight and bulk than a rotomolded cooler. With over 60 coolers to choose from, you’d think we’d always pack a fancy one, but my wife favors this Coleman for its lightweight portability. From Costco grocery runs to kids’ sporting events, it gets used more than any other cooler I own. The wheels and tow handle work well enough, and its low price means no one will shed a tear if it gets banged up. Plus, it’s less likely to be stolen than a $400 YETI.

Who should get this? People who want cold food and drinks without forking out hundreds of dollars. Truth is, this cooler will do the job for the vast majority of folks. It’s great for sporting events, grocery runs, beaches, campouts, or anything else. If you need a budget-friendly bear-resistant cooler with wheels, consider the Lifetime High Performance ice chest.

7. Best Small Cooler for the Money

Best Small Cooler

Coho 24 Qt Injection Molded Cooler

3.7

List Price: $70 ($60 in store)

Capacity: 24 qts

Weight: 13 lbs

Ice Retention*: 5 days

Construction Type: Injection molded

Warranty: 3 years

View at Costco

*Was tested separately from other coolers, but in mild spring weather (50-70 deg F) in both garage and outdoors. Expect 2-3 days in hot temperatures.

Link above is NOT an affiliate link, FYI.

Outdoor Empire Score 3.7
Ice Retention 3.5 | Build Quality 4 | Durability 4 | Features 3.5 | Warranty and Service 3.5

The Coho 24 Qt Injection Molded cooler at Costco offers unbeatable value. It’s a direct competitor to the YETI Roadie 24, which costs over four times as much. Although injection molded coolers aren’t as thick or heavy-duty as rotomolded ones like the Orca, they’re still highly durable. I am intentionally rough on my coolers to identify which ones hold up the best, and so far, this Coho is a tank. Despite its beefy build quality, it’s still compact and easy to carry. The drain plug is rather robust as well, but I’m not convinced it’s necessary on a cooler of this size, and I had to really crank on it to prevent leaks. Another potential weak point is the plastic piece connecting the handle to the cooler body.

While I didn’t have this cooler during my last big ice challenge, I tested it alone in mild spring weather and it held ice for five days. I suspect in hotter conditions it will meet the advertised 3 days of ice thanks to its thick walls of dense closed cell insulation and freezer gasket, features you don’t usually find on coolers under $100.

The cam-style latches make it open with ease and they even managed to squeeze in useful extras like tie-down strap slots, a bottle opener, and padlock holes. Although not bear-resistant certified, it has all the makings of a high-end cooler. While I wasn’t impressed with the Coho rotomolded cooler from Costco which lagged in ice retention and durability within its category, this injection molded version rocks.

Who should get this? Couples, day trippers, and weekend warriors. Though it’s not large, this cooler holds enough drinks and meals for a weekend campout or a day on the job. If Costco membership isn’t for you, consider Cordova’s Basecamp 20-quart hard cooler, which is cheaper than a YETI, or the Backcountry Class soft cooler, which can work in similar situations as the Coho. But if you want to impress your friends, the Oyster Tempo ought to do it.

8. Best Soft-Sided Cooler

Best Soft

Cordova Backcountry Class Daypack

4.6

List Price: $130

Capacity: 16 cans

Weight: 4 lbs

Ice Retention*: 3 days, rank 2

Construction Type: PVC soft-sided

Warranty: 1 year

View on Amazon View at Cordova

*Soft cooler ice retention test included 8 coolers and was completed in the summer with average daytime highs in the 90s.

Compare Prices: Scheels

Outdoor Empire Score 4.6
Ice Retention 5 | Build Quality 5 | Durability 5 | Features 5 | Warranty and Service 3

The Cordova Backcountry Class Daypack soft cooler offers excellent value from a brand based right here in Idaho like Outdoor Empire. It’s particularly impressive when compared to its main competitors, the RTIC Soft Pack ($119) and the YETI Hopper Flip ($300). Cordova combines the best of both worlds, affordability and all the features. It includes the molle loops like the YETI, an external pocket more functional than the RTIC’s, various carrying options (butterfly handle, side handles, shoulder strap), and an attached bottle opener, which the other two lack.

Its design not only looks cool, but it kept ice cool for three full hot summer days. Only the larger Engel HD30 outperformed it, which is nearly twice as big and started with more ice. The zipper is easier to pull than the RTIC’s and it’s watertight to prevent leaking in your car.

The main drawback is the one-year warranty with a 30-day registration requirement and several exclusions. However, in my blind customer service test, Cordova was responsive and helpful, so hopefully they won’t put up a fight if an issue arises.

Who should get this? Folks who want a grab-n-go day cooler or something compact for overnight trips. If you want to save ice and money compared to a YETI or an RTIC, consider this Cordova. But if you just want a cheap soft cooler, consider the Titan by Arctic Zone Zipperless Hardbody Cooler.

9. Best Backpack Cooler

Best Backpack

ICEMULE Pro Large 23L

4.4

List Price: $135

Capacity: 24 cans

Weight: 3 lbs

Ice Retention*: 2.5 days, rank 3

Construction Type: PVC soft-sided

Warranty: 90 days

View on Amazon View at ICEMULE

*Soft cooler ice retention test included 8 coolers and was completed in the summer with average daytime highs in the 90s.

Compare Prices: Sportsman’s Warehouse, Bass Pro Shops, Cabela’s, Academy Sports, Camp Saver

Outdoor Empire Score 4.4
Ice Retention 4 | Build Quality 5 | Durability 5 | Features 5 | Warranty and Service 3

If you want mobility, the ICEMULE Pro Large 23L backpack cooler is your go-to. It’s rugged TPU-coated polyvinyl material, the same used for whitewater rafts and paddleboards, is highly resistant to abrasion, making it ideal for hiking through trees and rocks. Instead of fail-prone zippers, it uses a roll-top that doubles as a handle. From my experience, the cooler is watertight and won’t leak ice water on your back, though sometimes that might be refreshing.

In my summertime test, the ice lasted for an impressive 2.5 days. At a family reunion, I planned to use it as a day cooler but ended up relying on it as overflow cold storage for a few days because it stayed so chilly. The comfortable shoulder and sternum straps make it suitable for extended day hikes. There’s no pocket, but the bungee straps can hold a towel or jacket. Plus, it sits flat on the ground instead of tipping like other top-heavy backpack coolers.

However, it gets heavy when fully loaded and there’s no waist belt to take the weight off your shoulders. The short 90-day warranty is also disappointing when they’re marketing a high-quality, durable piece of outdoor gear—ICEMULE should have more faith in their product.

Who should get this? People on the move who want a cooler you can take anywhere. It’s ideal for hiking, biking, boating, rafting, picnicking, or floating the river. An interesting alternative with rigid sides is the Engel BP25 backpack cooler.

10. Most Innovative Cooler

Small But Mighty

Oyster Tempo

4.2

List Price: $500

Capacity: 24 qts

Weight: 12 lbs

Ice Retention*: 12 days, 49 points, rank 15

Construction Type: Vacuum-insulated aluminum

Warranty: Lifetime

View at Oyster

*Based on our 38 cooler ice retention test in mild weather (highs 60-75F, lows 40-50F).

Outdoor Empire Score 4.2
Ice Retention 4 | Build Quality 5 | Durability 3 | Features 4 | Warranty and Service 5

The Oyster Tempo cooler stands out in our test fleet for its sleek appearance and exceptional cooling abilities. Made from aluminum, it cools faster than typical plastic coolers due to its conductivity. In addition to closed cel foam insulation, it employs Oyster’s vacuum-insulated DLTA system, similar to the double-walled metal tumblers that keep drinks cold for hours. By minimizing the gap under the lid, it reduces thermal bridging. All this technology results in faster cooling and longer cold retention. The lustrous design hails from Norway, where they know a thing or two about ice, aluminum, and aesthetics.

Despite being the smallest in our ice challenge, it retained ice for 12 days, outperforming 60% of the coolers tested, including those much larger with more thermal mass to throw around. In one test, it dropped below 40°F (food-safe) in just 38 minutes using only two ice packs that Oyster pretentiously calls ‘thermal batteries’ . Its rapid cooling eliminates the need for pre-chilling, which is recommended for massive rotomolded coolers that need to cool themselves before they can keep their contents cool.

I also tested it without ice, starting with food straight out of the fridge. For the results, watch my full Oyster Cooler review on YouTube!

While that high price is out of reach for most folks, this cooler is unique. With only a 1:2 ice-to-can ratio, the inverse of standard recommendations, it kept a couple dozen sodas icy cold for me during a multi-day camping trip. I like how the lid opens from either side and ensures an airtight seal. Its lightweight, compact size is perfect for those with limited space.

While the aluminum will eventually dent, and I might cry about it, it’s generally durable. Though the thin metal rim around the lid looks vulnerable and might compromise the seal if damaged. The lifetime warranty is reassuring, provided this startup stays in business.

Who should get this? Gearheads with extra cash and space-conscious individuals. Ideal for short trips, van life, and taking drinks to a bonfire, it’s not suited for a family’s week-long backcountry camping trip. For a more practical option with similar capacity, consider the Coho above. You can even save some money and go with a full-size rotomolded cooler like the Maluna.

How We Tested Coolers

When we evaluate gear at Outdoor Empire, we start by selecting a set of criteria based on research and our own experience in outdoor recreation. I’m not a scientist and I recognize that any gear testing involves some subjective opinions and biases, but we do this in a diligent effort to be as objective as possible when we compare similar gear against each other. This way, regardless of personal preference or how we acquired a piece of gear, we can give our honest assessment of it.

For each criterion we give a score between one (lowest) and five to each cooler. These scores are generally assigned based on the relative performance among all the products tested, but sometimes we deduct a specific number of points if a certain attribute or standard is not met. The average of the combined scores is the Outdoor Empire Score we use as our primary ranking factor.

The five criteria we use to test, score, and rank coolers are as follows:

1. Ice Retention: Given this is the primary function of a cooler, our ice retention tests consume a huge amount of our time and effort. We have conducted two large ‘ice challenges’ (28 coolers in 2022 and 38 in 2023) and several smaller ones where we purchased hundreds of pounds of ice that we dispersed among the test coolers. We left the coolers outdoors as if on a camping trip and we recorded results until all the ice melted. We made four daily pass/fail observations for each cooler including: ice presence (visual), soda cans on top of ice (visual, indicates volume of ice to water and surface tension), internal temperature (infrared thermometer reading at or below 50°F), and food temperature (pin thermometer reading in hot dog at or below 40°F). Each cooler received one point for each passed test each day and was eliminated the first day it received zero points. The number of full days with ice present was also recorded for each cooler.
2. Build Quality: This is largely a qualitative evaluation of the fit, finish, feel, flaws, components, construction, and materials used, relative to other tested coolers in the same category.
3. Durability: We assess the damage sustained by a cooler following regular use as well as some simulated real-world torture testing such as a cooler falling off a truck. In addition, one point was deducted if a cooler was not IGBC bear-resistant certified and one point was deducted if the construction type was not injection or roto-molded. The durability score is meant to be relative to coolers in the same category (hard, soft, etc.).
4. Features: This is also a relative, qualitative assessment. We look at the number and utility of features (e.g. rod holders, rails, tie-down points, included accessories, add-on availability, clever design elements, rulers, etc.) relative to other coolers in the same category. This applies to features beyond the basics (e.g. lid, carry handles, drain, keeps things cold).
5. Warranty and Customer Service: Half of the score is based on the warranty (2.5 points for 10 or more years, 2 points for 5 years, 1 point for 1 year, 0 points for less). The other half of the score is for the quality and responsiveness of customer service relative to other cooler companies (2.5 points for great service and multiple ways to contact, 0 points if impossible to contact, 1+ point for multiple ways to contact, possible lenience for good online support, 2 points if successfully contacted with acceptable response time and quality).

Why You Should Trust Us

I have spent hundreds of hours researching, acquiring, using, testing, and abusing ice chests. Hundreds of photos, dozens of hours of video footage, and more spreadsheets than I can recall have been collected to track, rank, and analyze coolers from nearly 40 different brands.

I personally make a concerted effort to use different coolers for all of my own outdoor adventures, which has brought to light little details and insights I may have missed from group testing and evaluation. From camping to hunting, fishing and sporting events, I’m the guy that shows up to every event with a different ice chest than the last.

My educational background is in Geography and business. I have an MBA, a highly analytical mind, and extensive experience in product management at a tech company where I worked closely with engineers to identify customer pain points and come up with solutions to fix them. I’m an avid outdoorsman and have been camping since I was a baby. I notice things that others don’t and when I finally do stop researching a piece of outdoor gear I’m gonna buy for myself, I know exactly what I’m getting.

I obsess over coolers so you don’t have to. While my wife tells me it’s a problem, it pangs me to accept that there are still cooler brands out there I haven’t ice and torture tested just yet. On my quest to find the best, I dare say that I have spent more time and money than even the largest websites that appear at the top of the Google page when you search for ‘best coolers’.

For this review, I put in dozens of hours researching coolers online, at tradeshows, and in retail stores. As contenders were accumulated I used them in the real world out camping, hunting, picnicking, and doing the things people do with ice chests. I came up with both reasonable and ridiculous tests for evaluating durability and features. I even anonymously contacted every cooler company’s customer service department with the same question to evaluate their response time and helpfulness.

The results were chilling. No cooler came out unscathed, but those with the best overall performance and quality are the ones that appear in this review.

How to Choose Your Next Cooler

If you’re a regular camper or a backcountry hunter, a cooler could be one of the most expensive pieces of gear in your kit. Since YETI made coolers cool (in both meanings of the word), dozens of small companies have followed suit making rugged rotomolded coolers with hopes of high profits. Some are little more than copy cats while others add bells and whistles to differentiate themselves, like that goth kid in middle school.

The truth is, for the way most people use coolers most of the time, those fancy coolers are overkill. Honestly, that Coleman cooler listed above is probably sufficient for 80% of people out there, including myself. But then, people like myself like to have thoughtfully designed, high-quality outdoor gear instead of the run of the mill.

So here are some things you ought to look for in a new cooler. Just keep in mind how you want to, but especially how you actually will, use your future cooler.

Insulation and Ice Retention

When you’re shopping around, knowing what kind of insulation lies between the walls of a cooler can help.

• Dense, closed cell polyurethane foam insulation is what the best brands use. It’s sprayed in the cooler shell wet and as it expands, it bonds to the internal plastic walls of the cooler. This helps eliminate voids and push out much of the air, replacing it with dense foam insulation with a high R-value. It’s relatively rigid and water-resistant.
• Open cell foam insulation is often used in less expensive and soft-sided coolers. While it’s also made of polyurethane, the chemical process is different and the result is a less dense foam material that incorporates more air. It’s generally more ‘squishy’, less water resistant, and less dense. That’s why it works for a small soft cooler that is watertight and only really intended to keep things cold for a day or so. But it may be a form of cost-cutting if found in larger hard coolers.
• Styrofoam or extruded polystyrene (EPS) is lightweight with decent insulation capabilities, but it’s made up of 95% air and can more easily crack or break down inside your cooler, like how a foam coffee cup breaks. Polystyrene does not insulate an ice chest as well as polyurethane and is less common now than it used to be, other than those cheap disposable coolers you get at the gas station in a pinch.
• Some of the cheapest coolers just have an air gap between a blown plastic lid or body. This is indeed better than wrapping your food in newspaper, but not by much.

The fundamental feature of a cooler is its ability to keep food cold. Many modern coolers express the quality of their insulation by stating how long it will keep ice fresh, but everyone has their own method and a theoretical lab test doesn’t necessarily reflect how you actually use a cooler on a camping trip.

That’s what I try to simulate in my ice retention challenges and you can see the results here. I left the coolers in my backyard, opened them every day, and monitored what happened. But you should still probably shave off a margin from the results I got based on weather in your region and how often you open it. When we’re out camping, my daggum kids will be in there every 30 minutes looking for a snack, letting warm air in every time.

Besides solid insulation, a rubber, freezer-style gasket will make a world of difference in ice retention. High-end coolers should always have an air-sealing gasket, cheap coolers usually won’t. You want to eliminate warm air from sneaking in your cooler and killing your ice. However, that doesn’t mean a cooler should be completely air (or water) tight. In fact, most coolers want to be dry ice compatible, which requires a way for carbon dioxide to escape, lest your cooler is a bomb. So a snug, supple gasket that allows a bit of one-way air traffic out is what you want.

Ask yourself, do you really need to have ice for 10 days?

Practically speaking, most people don’t require a cooler than can retain ice for an entire week, let alone two. While we use that as a primary ranking factor and the best coolers in this review will keep your food and drinks cold for several days even in the hot summer, if that doesn’t really matter to you, don’t fixate on it.

It’s worth noting that, while a $400 rotomolded cooler will keep drinks cold for days on end, if you just need to throw ice and drinks in a cooler for the baseball game tonight, they’ll probably be colder by then if you use the cheap Coleman. Why? Because heavy-duty coolers have a lot of mass and they have to cool themselves down first before they can cool the contents. Even if your drinks are cold going in, the cooler is going to zap some of that coldness from them before it reaches equilibrium and everybody’s cool.

That’s why YETI and other big cooler companies insist that you ‘pre-chill’ your cooler, meaning put a bag of ice in there 24 hours before you need to actually use it. When you’re ready to pack up, you drain off the excess water (just this once). Then they want you to add your food in cold too, straight from the fridge or freezer. Doing that will indeed start your trip off icy cold and likely stay cold longer.

BUT…

This is why that aluminum Oyster cooler is so impressive with its rapid cooling superpower. It’s the best option if you need cold drinks within a couple hours, not a YETI or a Maluna.

I digress, let’s move on.

Size

Cooler size matters both for the amount of storage available and the amount of space required to store and transport the cooler itself. Storage space is usually advertised in terms of quarts or the number of 12-ounce cans it can carry. Here’s my take on cooler sizes:

• 15 quarts or less: Good for your lunch and that’s about it.
• 15-30 quarts: Small coolers that are good for a day, drinks, or an overnighter as a couple. Great to have as a second cooler.
• 30-50 quarts: Medium coolers that are good for an overnight campout with a family, or longer trips for a couple. Great for beach days, parties, or a truck cooler stocked with lunches and cold drinks.
• 50-75 quarts: Large coolers that serve most needs of most people. This is the sweet spot that will usually work for anything from supplying your kid’s football team with Gatorade and Gogurt, to a weeklong camping trip for a family of five. This is what I use the most. It’s chock full for long campouts, but it’s got extra capacity on shorter trips. If you only get one cooler, this is probably the size range to get.
• Over 75 quarts: I consider these extra-large coolers and people that need a cooler of this size should have a good reason in mind for it. Packed full of food and ice large coolers like this will stay colder longer than their smaller counterparts. But if you only use half the capacity, it’ll be full of air and burn through ice like crazy. Big time hunters, whitewater rafters, and big families might go this route. Just know that they take up a ton of room in the garage and the truck too.

Many coolers have a number in the model that corresponds to size, but sometimes that number is arbitrary. If you’re set on a 70-quart cooler, read the specs to ensure it’s really 70 quarts. Brands like Maluna and Orion use the true internal capacity in their model names, while brands like Engel and YETI don’t. Sometimes the capacity listed is actually the volume of the entire cooler’s outer shell.

Overall size and shape is important because you will need to store, transport, and at some point, move the cooler. Too small, and you will be unable to store everything necessary for your trip. Too large, and the cooler will be unwieldy, too heavy, or might not fit into your car, tent, etc. I find more squarish shapes like the Orca are easier to fit in the back of an SUV (more stable to stand and fish from too). Some are too tall to fit under the tonneau cover of a pickup. So take some measurements of where you want to store it before you go for it.

For example, the Igloo Trailmate is a fun cooler, but it’s massive and takes up the entire cargo area of my Honda Pilot. So much for bringing chairs to the beach too.

Also note that you lose a fair amount of space to ice or ice packs. If it’s just for the day you may get away with a single bag of ice and have plenty of space in your 55-quart BruTank for drinks and snacks. But if you’re going camping in the boondocks for a week, you’ll want to aim for a 2:1 ice to content ratio which means you have less than 20 quarts of space for food. So if long trips are on the agenda, a big ole’ cooler you will need.

Related: How To Pack a Cooler Properly (Drinks, Camping, Day Trips, Meat)

Construction Type

There is an ever-expanding list of options when it comes to what cooler materials, and scientists are constantly looking for the next lighter, more efficient material. However, for the purpose of this article, we will simplify matters and look at plastic, fabric, and metal coolers.

• Rotomolded
• Injection Molded
• Blow Molded
• Metal
• Soft-sided
• Plastic

This is the most common material used and the nearly exclusive choice for hard-sided coolers. However, there is one important aspect to remember—not all plastics are created equal. Both the very expensive and extremely inexpensive use plastic in their construction, and it all comes down to the manufacturing process used.

Fabric

Various fabrics have always been the choice when it comes to construction of cheaper, soft-sided lunch tote style cooler. Now, new stronger materials are being utilized to develop high-end brands as well. As new materials are developed or adapted their use in cooler will undoubtedly increase.

Metal

There was a time when metal, usually lined with an insulating material or consisting of two vacuum sealed layers, was the material of choice for cooler. Today, it is the exception. Although metal does allow for a very durable, long-lasting design, it is heavy and has been largely replaced by plastic.

Portability

Portability is a big deal for many cooler shoppers and the most portable coolers are either lightweight, compact, and no fun, or they have wheels.

If you are shopping for your first cooler you probably think that portability comes down to three simple features—smaller size, wheels, and large, easy-to-use handles. However, making a decision based on those criteria alone will likely lead you to be disappointed.

A small, lightweight cooler is of little use if it has such a small capacity that it barely holds lunch, never mind a weekend’s worth of steaks, corn on the cob, and beer.

Likewise, how likely is it that those tiny, hard plastic wheels that allowed you to speed across the driveway will perform even half as well in the sand or mud?

Next, you need to consider how uncomfortable or difficult it may be to actually use. Is it too bulky to load into and unload from the car? Are the handles placed to allow for a good grip when carrying it alone?

Ease of Use

It is hard to believe that ease of use would even be a concern when it comes to a cooler, but advancements have resulted in coolers with a wide array of features never before available, and each added feature means a higher degree of difficulty for the user.

The first order of business when reviewing ease of use are the general features available on any cooler—size, shape, handles, and wheels (if included).

Can you load it easily and efficiently? Does the size allow for loading common items, and is it easy to carry? Are the handles adjustable? If so, how hard is it to adjust them? Do the wheels provide a smooth, easy-to-pull platform?

All these things you should wonder when buying any cooler. But then things get a little more complex as you dig a bit deeper.

Improved seals and latches are required for multiple days of ice-cold temperatures. There are a variety of latch designs in use, including large rubber models that are stretched into place, push-button locks, and even slide latches. Eventually every cooler loses its cool and ice melts, so there has to be a drain available.

Some of these drains are simple plugs—pull them out and let the water run. Others involve multiple discs that need to be turned, lined up, etc. Each manufacturer is convinced their design is best, but some are far more difficult to use.

Accessories

With all the advanced features available in today’s cooler, it is almost mind-blowing to think that there is the possibility of even more optional accessories. But there are plenty of options to upgrade the “best cooler” and make it even better.

So, if you are the type of person who is always looking to make improvements, it is important to consider what upgrades may be available. Examples include dry trays to keep items off the ice, interior/exterior storage compartments, cup holders, bottle openers, and even measuring tapes (once a common feature on the lid of any cooler).

Some wheeled models offer upgraded wheels for use off-road or on the sand. There are even models that offer a handle replacement that allows the cooler to be towed behind a bicycle.

Other features

Although not features that usually distinguish a specific brand, there are some features that can be a tie-breaker when two models are up for consideration. What colors are available? Does it include a warranty? If so, what are the terms of it?

Analysis and Test Data

Before I met the Maluna, the Orion Core 65 was the cooler to beat. It handily won the first ice retention challenge I did (actually tied with the Cabela’s) in the heat of summer making it 9 full days with ice when daytime highs were teetering around 100 degrees.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why Do I Need a Quality Cooler?

A quality cooler will not only store and protect your food and drinks, it will also maintain a consistent food temperature at or below 40°F.

This is the temperature at which food-borne pathogenic bacteria starts to thrive, so a cooler that keeps food and drink below this mark helps to protect you from illness.

A quality cooler will also offer features or accessories that make it easier to use. Some are even specifically designed to accommodate specific tasks, such as boating, camping, or fishing.

Recommended reading:

How to Properly Clean and Maintain a Cooler (Even Stains and Smells)

How To Store Coolers So They Stay Clean and Last Forever

The post 10 Best Coolers of 2024 appeared first on Outdoor Empire | Outdoor Gear Reviews and Pro Tips.

To effectively fish a tube jig, start by casting it out and allowing it to sink naturally. Once it’s settled on the bottom, produce a series of hops and snaps to mimic the movement of a swimming fish. Remember to pause sporadically to entice strikes. It is important to adapt your technique based on fish activity levels and environmental conditions for optimal results.

When used correctly, tube fishing can be highly successful and can easily bring in some of the largest bass fish you can find.

Knowing how to fish a tube jig allows you to bring bass home almost any time of the year. There’s always a time and a place for tube fishing. In tube fishing, the rigging, different lines, baits, and technique are all important to getting your style down right. Here, we’ll go over how to fish a tube jig from the very beginning, all the way to the very end. 

DISCLOSURE: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Many links in this article are affiliate links. If you click on a link we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no additional cost to you.

What is a Tube Jig for Fishing?

Bass love to live in waters of all different types. When they’ve decided to swim in choppy waters, a tube jig comes in handy.

A tube jig is designed to mimic a small baitfish or crawfish, and with the motion of the water, the tail of the tube will move and imitate the motion of the fish. 

These tube jigs come in all different sizes and colors, but the basic premise is always the same. Tubes are a simple design, a small silicon tube with multiple tails coming off of it. The hollow of the tube works for simple rigging of a hook. Overall, it’s a simple, but highly functional design.

In combination with the tube, a weight is used to jig the tube through the water and create an accurate representation of the bait you’re attempting to replicate. 

These tubes are best for fishing bass, as they most easily replicate the baitfish and crawfish that bass famously love to eat. You can adjust the tube for the time of year and location you’re in, making it possible to land all types of bass with different tube jigs. 

What are Tube Jigs good for?

As mentioned, tube fishing is best for fishing bass. The tube can easily imitate a shad, crawfish, or golden shiner, all favorites of many bass species. The tube jig comes in handy when the water is turbulent from the weather or the general motion of the water itself. The tube will dance and the tail will move in the water, just like a fish. 

Compared to classic baits, a tube falls through the water in a highly particular way that is hard to replicate with anything else. It’s a highly unique bait when used correctly, allowing for some incredible fishing. 

Tube jigs are also a great way to introduce bass fishing to anyone just starting to learn how to fish. They’re incredibly forgiving and easy to fish, plus it’s a great way to learn how to study different bass, where they live, and what they like to eat. 

Tubes come in all shapes and sizes, which also allows for a highly dynamic and diverse style of fishing. Plus, tube fishing has declined in its popularity over the years, making the tube even more efficient as bass are unaccustomed to their presence in the water.

Tube fishing falls amongst popular styles of fishing, which is to your benefit!

When to Fish With Tube Jigs

Knowing how to fish a tube jig is as much about knowing when to rig a tube as it is about knowing what tube to rig. There’s a diverse array of times in which fishing tubes for bass is the right move, but it isn’t a one-shot wonder that will do it all. 

There are certain times when fishing a tube is the best choice by far:

• When water is choppy (Winter and Spring Seasons)
• When fishing rocky underwater terrain
• When fishing areas with several different bass species
• When fishing near docks
• When fishing thick weed mats where bass hang out

That being said, you can fish a tube jig any time you’re out on a lake, big water with sandy bottoms or large rocks, main lake dams, weed mats, and even around docks. When the right tube is used, you can fish them just about anywhere you want. 

How to Rig a Tube Jig 

There are plenty of different ways to rig a tube jig. Some of the methods are perfect for snapping along the bottom of sandy lakes, while others are better fit for weed mats or large rocky bottoms. Sometimes it’s best to rig up a few rods with different setups, just to have the option available.

A tube jig looks similar to a normal jig, but typically has a longer piece of lead and the eyelet is always different. The eyelet sticks out away from the hook so that it can be stuck through the front of the tube. 

To rig a classic tube jig, simply shove the weight up from the bottom of the tube to weigh the top half of the tube. Then push the eyelet through the front of the tube so that the hook sticks out the bottom with the eyelet at the top.

This setup leaves you with an exposed hook, which can be difficult for heavy vegetation or dense rocky bottoms. 

Texas Rig

A Texas rig is perfect for any time you want to fish a tube in a weed mat. With an EWG (extreme wide gap) hook, you have plenty of space to shove the tube back on the hook and expose just enough to help snag the fish. 

You can also use a Texas rig when dragging along the bottom of any body of water in order to avoid the hook snagging on something that isn’t the bass you’re after. 

Drop Shot Rig

Using a small tube on a drop shot is a great way to fish a tube in large rocky areas. The sinker will hold the tube in place while you jig it around and lure a bass out of its hiding in the rocks. 

Not only does this setup help bring in bass, but it will also help you to avoid fraying your line. Even when the sinker gets trapped, you won’t lose the tube or the hook. 

Punch Rig

Finally, a classic punch rig setup will work well with tubes as well. This is a great choice when fishing heavy weed mats, often catching even less than when using a Texas rig. If a bass is in serious hiding, it can be tough to reach. This rig will make it significantly easier. 

How to Fish a Tube Jig

Fishing a tube jig is a rather easy, forgiving style of fishing that makes it easy to learn and practice even if you don’t have a lot of experience. There are a lot of different techniques to learn and choose from, but just like all fishing techniques, everyone has their favorite. 

To fish a tube jig in the most simple matter:

• Cast it out and allow the tube to fall to the bottom
• On the way down it will spiral like a skirt on a bass jig, and can often trigger a bite right away. 
• Once the tube reaches the bottom, fish it like a regular jig, hopping and snapping along the bottom with quick, short motions. The goal is to move the jig up and down along the bottom to imitate a fish swimming along.
• In between the jerking and snapping, make sure you include a brief pause. This is when the bite is most likely to be triggered, rather than when in motion. 
• Snapping the jig quickly can imitate a crawfish that is darting from one hiding spot to another, but not all fish are going after the quickest-moving bait. 
• When fish are lethargic, typically in colder waters, you want to drag the tube slowly along the bottom rather than moving quickly. Sometimes a fish wants an easy target, rather than a difficult chase. 

There are plenty of other methods of fishing a tube jig. When rigged up with a drop shot, you will jig the tube in one spot multiple times rather than moving around as much. 

When skipping, you will keep your rod at a low angle, and use that low angle to pull the tube quickly across the bottom without much movement up and down. 

Best Tube Fishing Gear

You can fish a tube with just about any spinning or baitcaster setup. But in my experience, some gear works better than others. 

Related: Best Tube Fishing Rods

Reels for Fishing Tubes

In general, you can use either a baitcaster or a spinning reel when fishing tubes. This can often come down to personal preference, but you can also choose them depending on the style of tube you’re using. 

A smaller tube will work better with a spinning reel as it gives you more finesse and control over the jigging motion to dance the tube through the water. 

If skipping, a baitcaster will be much more difficult to use, but they come in handy with larger and heavier tubes. Many people prefer a baitcaster, but they are much more difficult to use as a beginner. 

Pick what you feel the most comfortable with, as it’s likely what you’ll have the most success with. 

Best Fishing Line for Tubes

The best fishing line for tubes can change depending on conditions. Typically, a heavier braided line allows you to cast smaller baits further and still reel in any size fish with ease. However, a heavier line can be much more visible when fishing in crystal clear waters, meaning you need to switch it up depending on where you are. 

At the end of your line, use a fluorocarbon leader before rigging up the tube. Since tube fishing is a highly active process, you’ll want to protect your line from the abrasion that’s unavoidable when jigging around the bottom of the water. Fluorocarbon or floroclear are both great options for this. 

What Hooks To Use With Tubes

The hook you use with your tube is going to change in regards to where you are fishing and the way you choose to rig up your line. You can use a classic tube jig, or an EWG hook sized correctly for the tube that you are using. 

Tube Jig Sizes and Colors

Tubes are great because of their versatility and all the different sizes and colors that they come up with. Natural tones are often the best colors for winter whereas brighter, more vibrant colors like chartreuse and neons can be great in summer. In the fall use deep purples and reds as well as silver, gold, and pumpkin seed.

One of the best ways to choose what color and size tube you are wanting to use is to set one bass aside in a live catch and wait. Bass will typically spit something up if given the time. From this, you can decide what the fish are eating that time of year in the area you’re in. 

It’s best to grab a wide variety of different sizes and colors in order to be prepared for any situation. Some 3.5” tubes are good for a lot of different bass, but you may want to pick up some longer and shorter ones for massive bass and finesse fishing. 

How to Rig a Tube for Skipping

Bass love docks and skipping is a great way to fish for them in those areas. While you can fish shallow docks in a lot of different ways, skipping is a great way to get a lot of bass quickly. The main difference is just to use a lighter head jig with your tube in order to provide more finesse in your casting and skipping. 

How to Fish a Tube for Bass

Tubes are known classically for their ability to catch smallmouth bass, but it works incredibly well for largemouth bass as well. This technique is focused on the bottom of the water, where bass tend to live. 

Pro Tip: Snapping, jerking, and skipping are the most common techniques when going after bass, as the baitfish and crawfish bass love tend to move quickly from hiding spot to hiding spot. 

The only thing that might change between fishing smallmouth and largemouth bass is going to be the tube that you choose. However, you can often catch a smallmouth and a largemouth with the exact same tube depending on where you’re at. 

How to Fish a Tube Jig for Trout

Fishing a tube jig for trout can be highly effective, but is a much different technique than when fishing for bass. For trout, the tube acts like more of a trailer attached to a float. 

Rig the tube a set distance (1-2 feet) down from a float and move it slowly along the water’s surface. Trout are much more likely to chase a baitfish higher in the water than down low like with a bass.

This is a great way to switch up how you fish with a tube and can expand the different fish you catch with them. Some people will even use this technique to catch salmon as well.

Final Thoughts on Fishing Tubes for Bass

Tube fishing is one of the most versatile styles of fishing out there. Not only can you use it to catch a wide array of bass, but you can also snag trout and salmon when changing up the technique. Fishing tubes for bass is a great way to get newcomers hooked on fishing with a technique that has a high success rate. It is quick to learn, forgiving, and a heck of a lot of fun!

The post How to Fish a Tube Jig (Rigging, Lines, Baits, Technique) appeared first on Outdoor Empire | Outdoor Gear Reviews and Pro Tips.

Using a deer feeder is one method that many hunters employ to achieve better opportunities for a successful hunt. There are different styles to choose from — some are attached to a tree trunk, others hung from a tree or mechanism, and still others are raised on a stand.

Deer Feeder Types and How To Build Them

There are many many ways that you can build a deer feeder. You may even be able to successfully improvise one. However, this article will focus on some of the most popular types of DIY deer feeders.

Trough Tables

One of the most popular types of deer feeders you can build is a trough table. The steps for building a trough table are very simple, and are as follows:

• Collect sturdy, easy-to-use building materials (wood or metal are popular choices).
• Build a simple table with sturdy legs.
• Add raised edges.
• Add a simple covering, such as a sloped roof (optional). 

You can adjust the design of a trough table to your preference, but the basics of this design are easy to achieve. Beyond its simplicity, this design is popular because it allows deer to approach the table and see all around them as they eat. Some deer may be discouraged if part of their view is blocked while they eat.

There are some possible downsides to this design, such as the fact that you have to refill it continually, which can become cumbersome and possibly expensive depending on how far you intend to travel. It is also exposed to weather conditions and pests.

However, these issues are easily solved. One option is to add a container (which can be made of wood, plastic buckets, barrels, or anything else that you have access to) that has holes on the sides near the bottom. Then place it in the center of the table. This allows you to fill up the container and tray with the corn or grain. 

As the tray is emptied, the container uses gravity to fill up the plate. Your visits to refill it can now be spaced out. Meanwhile, you can address exposure to the elements by adding a covering and choosing a spot for the feeder strategically.

Gravity Feeder

Another basic feeder is a gravity feeder, or mounted game feeder. There are many different styles of this type of feeder, and which one you should choose depends on what materials and tools you have available, as well as your experience with building and crafting.

Gravity feeders keep a limited amount of food accessible at one time. However, these will not give you quite as much control over how much feed is distributed as an automated feeder would.

People often build DIY gravity feeders using PVC pipe or other durable, hollow materials. PVC pipe is popular because it is cheap and easy to work with. Some common styles include:

• “J” shape: Perhaps the most popular style is a long, wide tube or pipe with a cap on the top. At the bottom, place a 90-degree elbow and then a 45-degree angle pointing up — forming a “J” shape.
  • This will allow you to fill up the tube without the grain falling out directly. The deer will be able to eat from the 45-degree angle piece. As they eat, gravity will refill the base with grains.
• “Y” shape: For the most part, other variations only change at the bottom. For a “Y” shape feeder, use a 45-degree “Y” attachment piece with the 45-degree part pointing up. For the bottom hole, use a cap with a form of grating cuts in it.
• “L” shape: Use a 90-degree elbow and then more pipe length and a cap on the end. Then on the horizontal section, cut the top layer to form a gutter-type trough to eat out of. It can be attached to a tree or you can do a free-standing post by using a T-post. Some people use a small skinny structure that has a roof shelter over it.
• Barrel or 5-gallon bucket design: Obtain a 5-gallon bucket or similarly sized barrel with a hole at the bottom. Attach piping to the hole in the bucket. This design allows for a large holding capacity.
• Feeding spout: Secure a variety of trays to the piping.

You may need to try out some different options to determine which works best for your needs. 

Tripod

For grain feeders, you can make a homemade version of a tripod deer feeder. Take the following steps to achieve this:

1. Obtain a large barrel with a lid on top that is removable for easy refilling.
2. Attach three poles as legs for broad support at the base like a tripod.
3. Cut a hole at the bottom of the barrel and place some form of a feeding spout over the hole.

You can also upgrade it and have up to four different spouts to feed more deer.

Keep in mind that you will need a ladder and will need to be physically capable of refilling the barrel bag by bag until you have the amount you want in your feeder.

Alfalfa Feeder

This type of feeder is very similar to the table trough, but is specially designed to feed alfalfa. To build this type of feeder, do the following:

• Build a structure like a table trough.
• Ensure the structure features a sturdy cover.
• Build a series of beams out of the covering, spaced closely together and forming a “V” shape that will hold the alfalfa above the table.

As the deer pulls the alfalfa, the beams hold the rest in. And whatever spills out lands right on the table.

You also can build a variation on this with a 50-gallon barrel:

• Cut the middle of the barrel vertically: use one half of it to form a trough, and the other half as a roof.
• Set the two halves around 3 feet apart (creating the top and the base) using 2×4 wood beams as the structural support.
• Between the barrel halves, use a sturdy and thick pig fence style wire mesh forming a “V” shape.
• Lift the roof pipe to add the new feed and keep it dry.

To make an even simpler version, take a barrel and cut holes around it to allow the animals’ heads to access a pile of alfalfa piled inside of it. People use this design for goats and other animals, but you can also easily use it for deer, although bucks need bigger holes to get their heads inside.

Further Tips

There are many more tips that can help you succeed in attracting or bolstering deer populations in a given area. 

Make Attractants as an Alternative or Additional Asset

If you find the options above too time-consuming or costly, then you might be interested in knowing that there are other even simpler attractants that you can use. You can also use these in conjunction with feeders to further ensure success.

Perhaps the most popular option is a deer lick. Aside from alfalfa and similar feeds, there are a variety of attractants you can turn into licks or blocks. One common recipe uses molasses, deer corn, cornmeal, brown sugar, oils, and salt. There are several ways that you can form the lick, including:

• Mix and bake the ingredients, and then press them into a form of your choice to cool. As it cools, you can then place a large screw in it so when it hardens you can attach it to your setup and not have the animals carry it off.
• Make it into a hard candy. Boil sugar and butter. Then pour it into your form to harden with the stick or large screw, depending on how you want to fasten it.
• Make a deer cane using various sweet ingredients like sugars, Jell-O, and syrups. You can mold this into a block, liquid, mixed with dirt, or however you like.

You can also make variations on the base recipe, but it is important to ensure it is nutritionally appropriate for the deer and not harmful to any other populations.

Consider Options for Making Your DIY Project More Affordable

There are several ways that you can make your project more affordable, including:

• Start with a simple design you know you can get right, so as to minimize the use of materials.
• Ask people with experience for advice, so that you can avoid costly mistakes.
• Compare prices for materials.
• Choose resilient materials that you will not have to repair or replace often.

You may even have some success upcycling old materials from around your home or from a local junkyard.

Start With Easy Options

It is usually best to start out simple when approaching a new type of project. There will inevitably be mistakes and learning curves to contend with. As such, it is often best to start small with a simplistic design, so as to give yourself room to learn for the future. After that, you will be more successful in your approach to more complex projects.

Be Aware of Laws

It is important to keep in mind that some localities have laws about deer feeders and deer licks, as well as various outdoor structures, especially if you’re going to use them for hunting. Therefore, it is vital that you do your research before starting your project. Peruse a government website or reach out to the relevant local authority to gain the proper information.

The post How To Build a Homemade Deer Feeder: Instructions, Tips, and Ideas appeared first on Outdoor Empire | Outdoor Gear Reviews and Pro Tips.

After years of teaching fly fishing and angling across the country, I’ve run into my fair share of unwritten rules. 

Fly fishing etiquette focuses on being open-minded, patient, and kind to your fellow fly fishers. While often unofficial, anglers respect a set of basic fly fishing rules like right of way and sharing the water to make the experience more enjoyable for everyone. 

Read on to discover these unwritten, basic fly fishing rules and etiquette.  

Basic Fly Fishing Rules and Etiquette

1. Be Neighborly

It never hurts to be neighborly. This can look like offering tips, fly patterns, or engaging in a quick streamside chat. Taking on a general openness will help improve everyone’s day on the water.

2. Respect River Right of Way

The person going upstream always has the right of way. 

When hiking a trail or driving a mountain road, the person going uphill has the right of way because it takes more effort to go up than down. This rule applies to a river as well. 

While most rivers won’t have that perceptible of an incline, always remember that anglers working upstream against the flow of water have the right of way.

If you come around a bend and see someone up ahead, leave plenty of space between you and them. It’s better to back off than to close the gap or tag along. And don’t simply leapfrog 50 yards ahead of them upstream. That’s a good way to get a stern talking to. 

While most anglers will want to work upstream, steelhead anglers work downstream. That said, the upstream right of way rule still applies.

3. Communicate

When you run into other anglers, ask them what their plan is. This is especially useful if you meet each other heading out of the parking lot. Figuring out a plan ahead of time can resolve the potential for later disagreements. 

If there is a disagreement, talking it out is always better than resorting to shouting or physical encounters. 

4. Share the Water

Always leave a respectful amount of room between you and other anglers. This is generally the distance that two anglers can fish without impeding the other’s line. 

If you might get tangled or you can have a conversation with them, you, or they, are fishing too close. 

This same rule applies regardless of which side of the stream you’re fishing on. Don’t assume you’re in the clear just because you’re on the opposite bank. 

5. Be Curious

In general, people like to share things that they enjoy or are good at. This is true for most fly anglers.

Asking other anglers about techniques, gear, or tips is almost always welcome. Most fly fishermen especially enjoy sharing tips with new anglers.

Adopt the rule that there are no stupid questions, and you’ll learn excellent tips from strangers wherever you fish.

6. Move Along

As much as you might want to  “camp out” in one spot, doing so on heavily pressured waters is rude. Regardless of whether or not you’re catching fish, heavily pressured waters rely on folks taking turns at good holes.

Once you have had a fair shot at a pool, move to the next one in a consistent pattern. This gives the anglers working upstream or down a shot at the same pool.

Of course, on days where you have the water all to yourself, stay as long as you like. 

7. Don’t Trespass

Different states treat rivers differently. In Minnesota, Idaho, and many other states river bottoms are considered public property, so anything below the high water mark is public. This is true even if the river travels through private property. 

Always thoroughly research the rules where you live and where you plan to fish. 

When in doubt, asking permission from a nearby landowner, checking with your local natural resource agency, or talking with other anglers is always preferable to taking your best guess and striking out on your own. 

Doing your due diligence ahead of time will prevent misunderstandings or unfortunate run-ins with the law. 

8. Leave No Trace

The idea of Leave No Trace is to leave a place just as you found it. This enables the environment to sustain many anglers. At the same time, it lets others that visit the same place enjoy the natural beauty of the area in their own way. 

If you want to take this a step further, carry a trash bag on every fishing trip. On the walk out, pick up trash when you see it and put it in the garbage.

This active management of our resources is a small and simple ritual that can have big impacts down the line. 

9. Respect the Fish

Whether you’re an angler that prefers catch-and-release or you want to bring home some wild protein for dinner, respect the fish by respecting the environment they live in. Here are a few specific tips.

Catch and Release

Catch and release anglers should:

• wet their hands before touching fish, 
• use a net with rubber mesh, 
• use barbless hooks, 
• and keep the fish in the water as long as possible. 

Touching a fish with dry hands can damage their slime coat. The slime coat is a fish’s immune system. If that slime is washed away, the fish can suffer fatal infections. 

The same is true of mesh nets. Abrasive, dry fishing nets raked across sensitive fish like trout is sometimes a death sentence. Wet, rubber nets help protect fish.

Barbed hooks can cause jagged wounds that take longer to heal. This is why it’s best to use barbless hooks for catch and release fishing. Barbless hooks are also much easier to remove. 

Keeping fish in the water can help reduce fatigue by allowing them to breathe. If fought too long, kept out of the water, or the water temperature is especially warm, a fish may die from lack of oxygen. Always keep them in the water as much as possible. 

Catch and Cook

It’s an oversimplification that just keeping fish alive before eating makes the fish taste better. While it’s true that fresh fish tastes the best, the way that a fish is handled, dispatched, and stored can make or break the flavor.

Fish that sit in high stress environments like live wells, coolers, and stringers for a long time build up stress hormones that can impact meat quality.

Respect the fish by dispatching it quickly and immediately put it on ice for the best meat quality. 

Related: The Most Ethical Fish to Catch Recreationally (Best Practices)

Overhyped Fly Fishing Etiquette

While there are many low-profile rules that go unnoticed, there are no specific overhyped fly fishing rules. That said, some individuals will have personal pet-peeves that they bring up often and sometimes there will be local expectations in specific areas that you might not know as a visitor.

If you “make a mistake” around someone who is overzealous about a specific rule, talk about it. Don’t let their hyper-focus ruin a moment if you made a mistake in the heat of a great experience. Apologize and move on. 

We can’t always predict what will upset another angler and we can never control it. We just have to accept that there will always be soft spots and that some people’s are different.

In this same vein, pay special attention to the unspoken rules surrounding catch and release. Because the goal is to release a fish with as little harm as possible, catch and release anglers can be particularly firm about best practices.

What Not to Worry About

Like any activity, fly fishing has its share of gatekeepers. Some people will swear there’s only one right way to do something and pick on or harass other people who don’t do it. 

Beginners tend to get the short end of the stick when it comes to these kinds of people. 

At the end of the day, don’t be afraid to make mistakes. If you do make one, apologize, learn from it, and keep on fishing. Decide what feels right for you. 

Last Cast

Fly fishing is a great opportunity to remember the golden rule. Treat others the way that you would want to be treated. If you follow these simple reminders, you’ll never have a bad day on the river.

Finally, when fly anglers say goodbye, it’s customary to sign off with, “Tight lines!”

So, tight lines! And have fun on the water.  

The post Fly Fishing Etiquette: 9 Unwritten Rules You Gotta Know appeared first on Outdoor Empire | Outdoor Gear Reviews and Pro Tips.

I had the opportunity to test and compare nine different rifles, all chambered in .308 WIN. You can read our best 308 rifles review to learn more and see our recommendations. I was fortunate to partner with Ron Spomer on this project. He published several YouTube videos about it.

I learned a lot from Ron that week and wanted to share what I learned about how to select a good rifle, especially if you want to use it for hunting. Read on for help honing in on what to look for in a .308 rifle.

Why Do You Want a .308 Rifle?

You don’t want to buy an expensive, high-end competition rifle only to dread lugging it through the woods on a hunt. You also don’t want to worry if you can trust it to make the shot you need.

Start by considering what you actually want to do with your rifle, then you’ll know which features and characteristics to focus on.

Recommended: Pros and Cons of .308 Rifles: Great Gun, But Not For Everyone

Hunting

Hunting rifles are designed to be carried for long distances, function reliably, and hold up to use in extreme outdoor environments. They should generally be lighter and easier to handle than target rifles, and you don’t need to fret if that comes at the cost of a little accuracy. The barrels are typically thinner, so they are more susceptible to point of impact shift due to barrel heating if they are fired rapidly.

Typically, .308 hunting rifles will accept only a small number of rounds and many states place a limit of 5 rounds on rifles used for hunting. This results in a rifle that is sleeker, easier to handle, and has fewer moving parts.

Target Shooting

Target .308 rifles, typically heavier and larger than hunting rifles, are built for stability and accuracy with thick, long barrels and heavy, adjustable stocks. Customization options like attachment points and rails allow for accessories such as bipods and high-powered scopes. Their weight, beneficial for reducing recoil and stabilizing sight pictures, is less of an issue in non-maneuverable, long-range shooting scenarios.

Tactical-style .308 rifles balance the agility of hunting rifles with the precision of target models. Despite their lightweight design, they don’t compromise on accuracy, durability, or adaptability. Suited for a range of applications from professional military use to competition shooting, these rifles maintain effective performance from 30 to over 1,000 yards. Their high cost reflects the advanced technology and top-tier performance demanded by users in challenging, rapid-fire shooting environments.

Main Considerations

It helps me to really dial in on each main part or quality of a gun, then decide which ones are important to me. For example, some things, like the trigger, aren’t particularly critical to me even if they are to someone else. But weight is really important to me because I don’t like to lug around more than what’s absolutely necessary when I’m deer hunting.

Think about and evaluate the following things that will affect your overall satisfaction with whatever gun you ultimately choose.

Action

The most common action for a .308 caliber rifle is a bolt-action. Hunting rifles and many target-oriented .308 precision rifles have a bolt action. Bolt action .308 rifles are simple to operate and have fewer moving parts than a semi-auto or lever action, which makes them less prone to failure. This reliability makes them the most common type of action for a hunting rifle.

When choosing a .308 bolt-action hunting rifle, consider if it has a 2-lug or 3-lug bolt. This choice impacts bolt lift height, affecting cycling speed and scope clearance. For faster action and compatibility with larger scopes, a 3-lug bolt, like those on the Browning X-Bolt Speed SR and Ruger American, usually offers a lower lift.

A .308 lever-action rifle like a Browning BLR is quicker to cycle than a bolt-action in experienced hands. This is useful for bear hunting or in thick wooded areas. But there’s a lot more moving parts which makes them harder to clean and maintain. They can also get mucked up more easily in rain or snow.

If you’re into target shooting or hunting coyotes and varmints, the AR-10 platform is a great choice for semi-auto fans, especially since it was designed around the .308 Winchester cartridge. The AR-10 is known for its modularity, ease of use, low recoil, and accuracy. But, remember, laws vary — in some states, the AR-10 can be restricted or even illegal, and it might not be lawful for hunting. Always check local laws before buying.

Barrel

More and more hunters want a threaded barrel these days and I’m one of them. It’s nice to have the option, for now or later, to add a suppressor or a muzzle brake which can help reduce recoil and even improve accuracy. I definitely found that to be true when I added a suppressor to my X-Bolt Speed SR.

Free-floated barrels are generally more desirable for a lightweight hunting rifle with a synthetic stock or for a heavy target rifle like the Bergara B-14 HMR or Savage 110 Tactical. Like we saw on the Remington 700 SPS, flexible plastic stocks with a rifle bedded to them doesn’t do any favors to accuracy. It should either be free-floated, or fully bedded to a stiff stock.

Barrel length might not matter a whole lot for most hunting purposes, and if it has a threaded muzzle a suppressor can give you some added length if you want it. Long barrels can be great for target shooting, but a nuisance when you’re brush busting through the deer woods.

Sporter weight barrels are typically fine for hunting rifles whereas thicker heavier barrels ore often desirable for target guns. Gun makers often try to shed some weight by fluting a barrel, which is great. Carbon fiber-wrapped barrels are another attempt to shed weight and maintain stiffness, but they drive the price up quite a bit.

For hunting you also want a corrosion-resistant barrel. Some older blued barrels can rust through the finish whereas newer guns with cerakote or other fancy finishes like the ArmorTough used on the NULA Model 20. A stainless steel or carbon fiber barrel will do the trick too.

Stock

A flat-bottomed forestock, found on rifles like the Savage AccuStock and Bergara B-14 HMR, is great for stable bench shooting. It’s also favored by some long-range hunters. However, traditional hunting stocks, with their curved forends, are easier to carry and use in various field shooting positions. Rifles like the Tikka T3x aim for a balance between these styles. Your preference might depend on how you plan to use your .308.

Hunting rifle butt stocks are usually straight and slender, but adjustable stocks are gaining popularity for their customizability in length of pull and comb height. This is particularly useful for different sized shooters or when using high-mounted target scopes.

Materials also matter. Synthetic stocks are light and weather-resistant, while wood stocks require more care. Stiff molded polymer stocks like on the Bergara B-14 HMR can add significant weight compared to an ultralight carbon fiber stock like on the NULA.

When choosing, consider how the rifle feels when shouldered. Try it out in a gun store before purchasing if you can. And check for a good recoil pad to ease the kick.

Trigger

Those who enjoy customizing their setup may appreciate an adjustable trigger. Most hunters tend to stick with the factory-set trigger pull weight (usually about 3 pounds) and don’t necessarily need to scrutinize that feature too much when making their purchasing decision.

Safety

A lot of hunters, including Ron Spomer and I, like a bolt that locks with the safety on. It prevents accidentally lifting or pulling back the bolt while moving through thick brush, which can be a safety issue or cause unintentional ejection of your round. So, if you like the sound of that, look for a rifle with either a 3-position safety or a 2-position safety that locks the bolt.

The downside of a locked bolt is that you must take the gun off safe to remove a round from the chamber – something you do often when moving or before getting back into a truck. I really like the Browning X-Bolt because even though it has a bolt-locking 2-position safety, it also has that bolt release button that lets you eject a round without taking the gun off safe.

Target shooters may not get too picky about a bolt-locking safety.

Weight

If you’re often hiking or navigating rough terrain when you hunt, you’ll likely appreciate less weight, especially if backpacking. Spending more money on a rifle with a lightweight carbon fiber stock and carbon fiber-wrapped barrel might be worth it to you in these instances. For stand hunting, spending extra for a lighter rifle isn’t really necessary.

A traditional .308 bolt-action hunting rifle weighs 7-8 pounds without an optic. A lightweight rifle weighs around 6 pounds. That NULA Model 20 may just be the lightest .308 rifle you’ll find at a hair over 5 pounds. The Tikka, Ruger, and Browning from this review are also very lightweight, which was a main reason we selected them as some of the best .308 hunting rifles.

Target and long-range shooters, whose primary objective is precision, probably don’t need to worry about weight and may even prefer a heavy rifle that won’t move as much when dialed in on a target from a bench rest. Though, something like that Springfield Waypoint rather attractive to long-range mountain hunters because it’s a precision .308 rifle that weighs relatively little.

Also keep in mind that any optic or scope you put on your rifle can add considerable weight. It doesn’t make a lot of sense to pay for a super light hunting rifle only to slap a behemoth target scope with a 34mm tube and a 54mm objective lens on top.

Accuracy

Accuracy matters for any .308 rifle, but it ought to matter more to a target shooter than a hunter. When hunting, your objective is to hit the vital organ zone of a big game animal which can be the size of a dinner plate or larger. That gives you some leeway and allows you to favor things like weight and reliability more than a precision target shooter might.

Lucky for us, almost all modern .308 rifles are plenty accurate for hunting, even for around $500 like that Ruger American Predator. There are many highly accurate .308 rifles to please the target shooters too.

Price

Most rifles are sold at prices below the Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) by retailers such as sporting goods stores and gun shops. I recall paying the listed MSRP for only two of the eight rifles I acquired for our best 308 rifles review. I bought the others at lower prices. So shop around if possible.

Any .308 rifle under $1,000 is a very reasonable, if not budget-friendly, price. The least expensive .308 rifles start around $400, but I paid $530 for my Ruger American Predator and it offers a ton of value for that amount. Mid-range .308 rifles will cost roughly $1,000-$2,000 and anything over that I would consider high-end. But don’t get me wrong, you could spend several thousand dollars on a tricked out competition, custom, or precision rifle.

Ammunition

When choosing a .308 rifle, it’s better to consider ammo types after selecting your gun. Think about your intended use and the bullet weights that suit your purpose. This will help you find a gun that pairs well with what you expect to shoot.

In our experience shooting 3 different types of ammo through 9 different .308 rifles for our best 308 rifles review, the 150 grain bullets seemed to produce the best accuracy overall. So that’s where I’d start experimenting with a new .308 rifle. If you think 180 grain bullets are too light for what you want to hunt, you might need to explore other calibers because that’s about where .308 Winchester ammo tops out.

Popular .308 Brands

If you’re looking to buy a .308 rifle, the brand probably isn’t the most important thing to look for, but you do want a dependable brand with a good reputation. Here are a few manufacturers that have been making quality .308 rifles for a long time. This is far from a comprehensive list, so don’t limit yourself just to these.

Winchester

The Winchester Arms Company has been active in America since 1866. Winchester introduced the .308 Winchester caliber cartridge with the bolt action Model 70 rifle and the semi-automatic Model 100 rifle. The Model 70 is still one of the best .308 hunting rifles today. Winchester rifles retain their reputation for quality and craftsmanship.

Ruger

Ruger offers a number of .308 rifle models, from budget hunting combos to fine hunting rifles to tactical rifle setups. Recently, they have been a fierce competitor in the budget rifle field with the introduction of their Ruger American series. These rifles produce accuracy that is difficult to beat in the budget firearms game.

Remington

As mentioned earlier, the Remington 700 is one of the most widely sold .308 bolt-action rifles in American history. Remington actions are commonly used for custom rifle builds. The company has faced criticism in the past due to their handling of potentially dangerous issues with their trigger system. Regardless, Remington still has many fans in the rifle world.

History of the .308 Winchester Cartridge

Introduced in 1952, the .308 Winchester is one of the most popular rifle cartridges not only in America, but worldwide. At the time of its introduction, developments in powder technology allowed it very similar power and ballistics to the .30-06 Remington. All in a short action package!

Two years later, the .308 WIN was adopted by NATO as the 7.62X51mm NATO. The difference between these cartridges and their interchangeability has been a subject of much debate in the gun community.

In truth, there are only very minor differences between the two cartridges. They are just exacerbated by differences in testing methods between civilian and military standards. Overall, the .308 Winchester has a slightly shorter chamber specification as well as thinner case walls. SAAMI (Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute) considers the two cartridges safe to interchange. Just be aware it can lead to issues.

The .308 Winchester is considered a highly versatile and capable cartridge. Its intermediate length enabled it to be adapted to bolt-action, semi-automatic, lever action, and other types of firearms easily.

The cartridge is considered powerful enough to humanely kill almost any large game in North America. It even has competent ballistics for shooting out to 1,000 yards and potentially beyond. These characteristics have made the .308 highly popular for sporting, hunting, and tactical purposes.

Read this next: Best .308 Hunting Rifles Tested and Reviewed

The post Buyer’s Guide: How To Choose the Right .308 Rifle appeared first on Outdoor Empire | Outdoor Gear Reviews and Pro Tips.

What Is a Fishing Reel?

A fishing reel is a mechanical device designed to store, release, and collect fishing line through the use of a rotating arm. First developed in the 4th century, they are now standard equipment for most anglers.

The Invention of Fishing Reels

Before the advent of the reel, anglers did not have an easy way to fish from a long distance. You could only access the water in your immediate vicinity, as the line was simply tied onto the end of a rod. This made it difficult to catch wary species who were easily spooked and it meant that some parts of the water were effectively out of reach.

Additionally, it was difficult to play fish as efficiently which led to many lost fish. However, by using a reel, anglers can cast their baits and lures at considerable distances using a variety of casting techniques. Many freshwater fishers routinely sling lures 40 yards or more, and some saltwater anglers can cast 200 yards, thanks in part to the long rods that are commonly used to fish from the beach.

Using a modern reel, you can keep the line taught and control the lure very efficiently once you have cast it to the desired area

Types of Fishing Reels

Most modern anglers use one of four different reel types: spinning, spincast, baitcasting, or fly. While you can always use whichever style you prefer, each offers its combination of strengths and weaknesses in a given set of circumstances.

Note that there are more reel types than the four detailed here, such as trolling reels and a few others, but they are not used as commonly by modern freshwater anglers.

1. Spinning Reel

Spinning reels feature a spool that sits parallel to the main axis of the rod. They are designed to hang beneath the rod when in use, unlike most other reels which are designed to rest on top of the rod during use.

The line wraps around the spool and passes over a small wheel called the power roller before continuing up through the rod guides. A metal arm called the bail keeps the line in place and ensures that it passes over the power roller. Like most other reels, the spool of a spinning reel rotates as the handle is turned when reeling in line.

And like modern baitcasting and spincast reels, spinning reels are called multiplier reels. This means that a single revolution of the handle causes the spool to rotate more than one time.

How To Use a Spinning Reel

To cast with a spinning reel, you must first move the bail arm into the up position — this is often called “opening the bail.” This frees the line and allows it to unspool (the spool of a spinning reel does not spin during casting) so you need to keep the line taught by pulling the line with your first finger while you prepare to cast.

Maintain the pressure on the line during your backswing and only release it at the very end of your casting motion. You can usually adjust the drag — the amount of resistance the reel applies to the line — of a spinning reel via a dial on the front of the spool.

Common Challenges and How To Address Them

The most common problem anglers experience when using spinning reels is a twisted line. When this happens, you need to unspool many yards of line so that it lies flat, then rewind the line on the spool slowly and carefully in order to ensure it goes on smoothly.

A proper line-spooling technique will help limit line twist but you can also prevent it by using a swivel on the end of your line.

2. Spincast Reel

Spincast reels are not as popular as they once were but they still provide great value for some fishing applications and anglers. They are essentially spinning reels that are fitted with a plastic cover. The line emerges from a small hole at the front of the reel.

How To Use a Spincast Reel

Like spinning reels, spincast reels feature a spool that is parallel to the rod axis. Also, they do not rotate during the cast. Instead, the line simply unspools as the weight of the lure pulls it free.

However, unlike spinning reels which require the angler to hold the line in place during the cast, spincast reels are easier to use. When it is time to cast, a button on the reel is pressed which allows the line to unspool freely.

Because the line is covered by a plastic housing, spincast reels do not become tangled as easily as spinning reels do. This means that you will experience fewer technical problems when using a spincast reel. The ease of use is partly why they are often the best option for children and beginning anglers of all ages.

Common Challenges and How To Address Them

Quality spincast reels rarely malfunction but they can suffer from the same types of line-twisting problems that spinning reels do.

3. Baitcasting Reel

Instead of the spool being parallel with the rod’s axis, they are mounted so that the spool sits perpendicularly to the rod. They also rest on top of the rod while in use, as spincast reels do.

How To Use a Baitcasting Reel

There is another important difference between baitcasting reels and those discussed previously. The spool of a baitcasting reel spins during casts. This means that you have to use a lure heavy enough to pull the line free.

It also means you have to adjust it properly and use a bit of skill to ensure it stops spinning when the lure hits the water. Otherwise, the reel continues to turn which can cause huge backlashes that can be difficult to untangle.

However, the free-spinning nature of a baitcasting reel also means that you have better control over your casting accuracy — especially regarding distance. If you like, you can simply stop the reel from spinning with your thumb which causes the lure to fall straight into the water. This is often helpful when trying to target small, isolated areas of cover.

The spool on most baitcasting reels is also smaller than the spools used in other types of reels. You can usually collect line more quickly, and with fewer turns of the handle, while using a baitcasting rod than you can with a spinning or spincast rod. This is particularly useful when using lures designed to be retrieved quickly such as spinnerbaits or crankbaits.

Common Challenges and How To Address Them

As with many reel types, baitcasting reels can be prone to tangles. In particular, fishers who use this reel type may commonly experience “backlash.” This refers to a circumstance where the spool spins faster than the line can release, causing tangling and knotting. Largely these problems can be addressed by ensuring that your spool components are kept in good condition and by practicing proper casting techniques. However, backlash can also be caused by issues such as poor wind conditions.

4. Fly Fishing Reels

Fly reels function quite differently compared to the other main types of fishing reels. Rather than relying on the weight of the bait or lure to cast the line, like a spinning or baitcasting reel, fly fishing reels rely on the weight of the fly line. They are often made with precisely machined, high-quality components and can be quite expensive. Fly fishing reels are commonly used for freshwater fishing, however, there are also fly fishing reels that are made specifically for saltwater use. 

How To Use Fly Fishing Reels

Fly fishing reels are very simplistic compared to many other reel types, and accordingly, they are fairly easy to use. However, fly fishing itself requires a lot of technique and finesse which can make this type of fishing more challenging than other types of fishing.

Fly fishing reels are “single-action,” which means that the spool rotates once with every turn of the handle. These reels also feature a variety of drag systems that anglers utilize to tire out a fish on the line. 

Common Challenges and How To Address Them

One of the most common mistakes that fly fishers make is starting out with too much slack in the line. This may result in tangling and lack of proper leverage when playing a fish. These issues can be addressed with proper casting technique, as well as starting with the tip of your rod close to the water and slowly lifting it. 

Which Type of Reel Is Best for You?

None of these reel types are inherently better than the others. But they each excel in different situations, thanks to the differences inherent in their designs. And while there are no unbreakable rules for angling and you can use whichever style you prefer, some are undoubtedly better suited for some circumstances than others.

Questions To Ask Yourself

To determine what type of reel is best for you, it can be helpful to ask yourself some basic questions about your particular needs and preferences when it comes to fishing.

Do you want to use light or heavy line and tackle? Generally speaking, baitcasting reels are better suited for heavy lines and lures than spinning or spincast reels are. Definitions of “light” and “heavy” vary from angler to angler, but a reasonable boundary would be somewhere in the 10-pound-test line or ¼-ounce lure range. If your line or lures are heavier than this, a baitcasting reel is probably the best choice for you. If you like lighter tackle than this, opt for a spinning or spincast reel.

How much experience do you have fishing? If you are completely new to fishing, you probably have the most success by using a spincast reel but anglers with a bit more experience may find a spinning reel preferable. Experienced anglers who are willing to put in the additional time necessary to learn to use a baitcasting reel often find them to be well worth the effort.

Are you primarily using “power” or “finesse” techniques? If you like to burn crankbaits and spinnerbaits through the water or use other “power” fishing techniques, you’ll likely find a baitcasting reel the best option. Finesse-oriented anglers, on the other hand, who often choose lighter lines and smaller lures usually have better success by using a spinning reel.

Are you actively fishing or will you leave the rod in a holder for extended periods of time? Most anglers — particularly those targeting bass or trout — fish actively, meaning they keep the rod in their hand the entire time. But many anglers targeting carp, bluegill, or catfish leave their rod in a holder while they sit back and relax. Such anglers likely find that the simplicity of a spinning reel suits their needs better and present fewer technical problems than a baitcasting reel.

How big are the fish you are targeting? The size of the species you intend to catch will impact things such as the size and type of reel you need. For example, if you are trying to catch panfish, crappie, or trout, you need to use light line and tackle so you may want to use spinning or spincast equipment. But if you are chasing after muskies and double-digit bass, you may find it easier to haul in the fish with a baitcasting reel.

NOTE: The original article was written by Ben Team in 2017, but the article was entirely revised by Chase Fly in 2024.

The post What Are the Most Common Types of Fishing Reels? appeared first on Outdoor Empire | Outdoor Gear Reviews and Pro Tips.

GMRS radios use the same frequencies as FRS radios. While FRS radios are limited to 2 watts of power, GMRS radios can use up to 50 watts. However, most handhelds are limited to 5 watts due to battery size. GMRS radios can also have removable antennas and can connect to repeaters, things that FRS radios cannot do.

Is the money and time spent in obtaining a license worth the extra range? Let’s find out.

By the way, there are a couple key differences between the Midland GXT1000VP4 and the Midland GXT1050VP4 walkie talkies that tailor the latter for hunters. I cover whether or not the 1050 is a worthy hunting walkie talkie near the end.

Midland GXT1000VP4 and GXT1050VP4 Walkie Talkies at a Glance

Think of the Midland GXT1000VP4 two-way radio more as an FRS radio that’s hopped up on Mtn Dew than a true GMRS radio. It pushes out transmissions at 2.8 watts giving it better range and audio, and is considered a budget GMRS two-way radio. It’s durable, water resistant, but requires an FCC license to use.

Midland GXT1000VP4 Two-Way Radios

$89.99

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03/25/2026 05:05 pm GMT

Key Features:

• $90 for a 2 pack
• Requires a license
• JIS4 rating which means that it is splash proof (similar to IPX4)
• Recharges with desktop chargers
• 7.4 ounces
• The Midland GXT1050VP4 model is camo and has electronic animal calls built-in

Pros: Better range and audio quality than FRS radios, Excellent clip, lightweight, has animal calls

Cons: Need a license to use, not fully waterproof, lacks some of the functionality of other GMRS Walkie Talkies

Recommended: Best Walkie Talkies Compared

Is the Midland GXT1000VP4 Worth It

If you want a walkie-talkie with the form factor of an FRS radio with better audio quality and better range, then this is a great radio and I would highly recommend it. Just be aware that it does require a license from the FCC to legally use.

On the other hand, if you go to all the trouble of getting a license and want a GMRS radio that you can geek out on, or you don’t want to go through the hassle of getting a license, then you should look elsewhere.

Best for:

• People that want a little extra range
• Hunters who often forget their calls but remember their radios (the Midland GXT1050VP4 has built in calls)

Not for:

• People that want full functionality from their GMRS radios
• Anyone going near water

What is the Range of the Midland GXT1000VP4 & GXT1050VP4 Radios

The stated range of the Midland GXT1000VP4 radio is 35 miles. This, however, is best case scenario, with a direct line of sight, no trees and perfect atmospheric conditions. In real life the range will be significantly worse.

 Midland GXT1000VP4 Range in Real Life

I was a little skeptical that the extra 0.8 watts would make much difference so, I set up a test near my house and put the Midland GXT1000VP4 up against the other FRS and GMRS radios that I have been testing. 

The Midland GXT1000VP4 and GXT1050VP4 had significantly better range and audio quality than any of the FRS radios that I had. The radio sounded the same at half a mile as it did at 2 miles where the other walkie talkies were either struggling or not working at all.

It is a little like comparing apples to oranges, but I was impressed. 

The Midland GXT1000VP4 Was a Bit Confusing to Set Up

The Midland GXT1000VP4 walkie talkie is a little more complicated to use than its FRS cousins. I found the set-up menu confusing and had to use the online user manual to find the privacy code that I needed. 

Clip

The Midland GXT1000VP4 had one of my favorite clips. It has a spring with the right amount of tension. I didn’t have any problems with it falling off unintentionally. I wish all the other radios that I tested had a clip like the Midland GXT1000VP4. 

Display

There is an always on display that is easy to see in direct sunlight and a backlight for when it’s dark.

The display shows you all of the information that you need to know in a quick glance and is easy to read and decipher.

It Feels Sturdy in the Hand

Durability Score: 3.5

During the Midland GXT1000VP4 and Midland GXT1050VP4 reviews, I appreciated the feeling of sturdiness that the radios had. They felt like tools that I would be comfortable taking into the woods to use. I also did not feel like I needed to treat them with kid gloves.

The Midland GXT1000VP4 has a JIS4 rating which means that it is splash proof (similar to IPX4). Although I did not have a chance to test it directly, it should easily withstand a moderate rain shower, just don’t fully submerge it.

If you want a fully waterproof walkie talkie, I recommend the Motorola T600 H2O.

How Long Does the Battery Last

The Midland GXT1000VP4 comes with a 700 mAh Ni-MH rechargeable battery. This is not the biggest battery that can be found in radios but should last a solid day of mild to moderate use. If you plan on heavy use, you can also run it with 4 AA batteries.

The radio can only be charged on a desktop charger, there is no USB charging port on the radio. This makes it a little trickier to charge while away from home.

Just know that it usually takes about 15 hours to charge the radio so prepare ahead of time or have some extra batteries on standby. As a side note, while the radio is charging, the red light comes on, but it does not change colors or go off when the radio is done charging. This is super annoying. How hard would it be to make the light change from red to green?

Gimmicks or Good Extra Features

Features score: 3.5

Scan

With the Midland GXT1000VP4 you have the ability to scan through channels or privacy codes within a channel. This is an easy way to find the channel and privacy code that your buddies are on without a lot of work.

Weather Channels

The Midland GXT1000VP4 has 10 weather channels that are activated by a button on the front then you can scroll through the 10 channels until you find one that has the weather for your area.

Weather Alert

You can set your radio up to receive weather alerts from the NOAA weather channels. I did not get a chance to test this feature, but it is there.

VOX

This feature allows you to use your radio hands free. With VOX on it will recognize that you are talking, and it will transmit without pushing the push to talk button. You can also adjust the volume so that it will activate with a whisper or a shout.

Every time that I tried to use the VOX feature it would cut off the first half of my sentence so maybe start with the uninteresting part of the conversation.

SOS

The Midland GXT1000VP4 will send out an SOS siren call to other radios that are in range. 

Midland GXT1050VP4 Hunting Review

The only difference between the Midland GXT1050VP4 and the GXT10000VP4 is that the 1050 model has a couple extra features designed for hunters.

• Mossy Oak Break-Up Country camouflage print
• Built-in electronic animal calls

The camo aesthetic is cool, but let’s be honest, I doubt a regular black walkie talkie is gonna be the thing that spooks a deer. And while the electronic call feature is nice in theory, I see no practical application where this helps your hunt at all.

The most useful hunting feature of this radio applies to either the camo or the regular black version — it can be operated silently. Both the 1000 and 1050 model radios come with headsets and a quiet mode. This makes them ideal for hunters who don’t want to scare game away with noisy beeps or their buddy calling in randomly to ask, “You seein’ anything?”

With an earpiece in your ear, any transmissions or calls won’t blast out from the main speaker and the quiet mode means you can whisper to send a message. Communication without scaring off game is why the Midland GXT1050VP4 is one of the best walkie talkies for hunting.

Midland GXT1050VP4 Radios with Headsets and Charger

$109.99

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03/25/2026 04:07 pm GMT

Animal Calls

The Mossy Oak version of this walkie talkie is called the Midland GXT1050VP4 and it has 5 electronic animal calls programmed into it.

• Turkey
• Duck
• Crow
• Cougar
• Wolf

I didn’t play around with this feature that much, but you need two radios to make it work. You transmit the call from the Midland GXT1050VP4 Mossy Oak, and it broadcasts it to any radios that are using the same frequency in the area.

It’s hard to say if the intent is to try and make you and your party “blend in” to the woods as you try and dupe the critters you’re hunting into believing you’re also a wild animal, or if it’s supposed to be a nasty prank where you spook all deer approaching your buddy’s tree stand.

Sure, a crow call might help locate a turkey and in theory a turkey or duck call should lure your target toward you, but I just don’t see this as a practical, realistic, or effective solution. Besides, many states have a ban on electronic calls for hunting, so make sure you check the regs before you get yourself in trouble for no good reason.

And if you were hoping to replace your electronic coyote call, this isn’t the answer.

Quiet Mode/Whisper Mode

You can configure the radio to not have any beeps when used. More importantly for hunters and ninjas is that you can put it into whisper mode. In this mode you whisper into the mic but it transmits like you are talking in a normal voice.

FAQs

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