Outside Is America

The Road to Palm Springs, Part Two: Finding Shulman

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 18:47:00 +0000

Alexander Steel House, blt. 1961, by Donald Wexler (click all photos to enlarge)

There's a movie making the rounds on the independent film circuit called Visual Acoustics: The Modernism of Julius Shulman. I haven't seen it yet -- it shows around the country in week-long engagements -- but whenever I follow its progress, I can't help but think back to a Southern California road trip last July. While scouting out ideas for a new book, I ended up in Palm Springs for a night and had an encounter with Julius Shulman . . . even though I never met the man.

One of the leading architectural photographers of the 20th century, Shulman and his pictures played a major role in crafting the image of Los Angeles, Palm Springs, and the “Southern California lifestyle” to America and the world during the 1950s and 1960s. Until this spring, I barely knew Shulman's name and recognized only a few of his landmark images. That all changed thanks to an NPR story that opened my eyes to the "modernism" movement and his incredible body of work.

So when I made a unexpected detour into Palm Springs and visited the Orbit In (see last post), Shulman was on my mind. I was hunting for the mid-century modernist architecture that he helped make famous, and I quickly learned that Palm Springs is Nirvana for modernism fans. The visitor center resulted in some great tips and a $5 map of the city's restored homes, motels and other architectural gems. Was that $5 well spent! I made my way to historic steel structures designed by Albert Frey, William Krisel, John Lautner, Richard Neutra and other giants of the time.

Grace Miller House, blt. 1937, by Richard Neutra

That evening, after dinner, I walked along the city's own "Walk of Fame" -- and the first Hollywood-style star I found bore the name Julius Shulman. I stayed there for a few moments, appreciating the serendipity of finding this roadside legacy. Then I moved on, ready to escape the hot summer night.

Shulman's star on the Walk of Fame, Palm Canyon Drive

Waking early, I spent the morning capturing more Desert Modernism landmarks; eventually I ended up back at the city's distinctive visitor center (the former 1965 Tramway Gas Station). During a nice conversation with a book buyer regarding Route 66 Railway, I mentioned Shulman and how he and the city had inspired me on this journey. His face suddenly changed.

"You do know that he died last night?"

"Who?" I replied, in denial.

"Shulman."

At 98 years of living the fullest life imaginable, Julius Shulman had passed away in Los Angeles . . . and for all I know, it happened when I was gazing at his star in the desert town forever linked to his work.

In Shulman's LA Times obituary, this quote stuck with me: "Modernism really was about a belief in a promising future, a belief that our problems could be solved easily by progress," said Craig Krull, whose Santa Monica gallery represents Shulman's work. While I can't quite agree with progress being the sole savior of our ills, optimism is something that comes through loud and clear in Shulman's elegant images. As 2009 nears its end, we need all the optimism we can get.

More Palm Springs images:

Coachella Valley Savings & Loan , blt. 1960

Palm Springs Visitor Center, blt. 1965

Palm Springs Tramway Alpine Station, blt. 1961-63

Next visit? February.

For more information, Desert Modern fans should visit http://www.PSModCom.org

The Road to Palm Springs, Part One: Reaching Orbit

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Mon, 10 Aug 2009 02:44:00 +0000

Orbit In entrance, July 16, 2009 (click all photos to enlarge)

Those of us who follow Route 66 and other old highways are all too familiar with vintage motels that defy age and cultural obsolescence, but typically cling to life by a thread and some well-placed duct tape. So it was a thrill to arrive in Palm Springs one hot July day and discover that the city's modernist movement has sparked the rebirth of several mid-century motels. Not only do they look better than ever, they carry a cool, upscale atmosphere and rank at the top of any Palm Springs traveler's must-see list.

Some personal backstory: midway through last month's photo trip (read here), I'd fallen into a bad slump after an evening by the Salton Sea where everything that could go wrong did go wrong. So I'd departed Indio with plans to head back to LA. While entering Palm Desert, a little voice suggested taking the long route back via Highway 111. I hadn't visited Palm Springs in over a decade, and being a fan of photographer Julius Shulman -- who had captured so many timeless images in this desert town -- the timing seemed right. Besides, I'd heard about this restored motel called the Orbit In . . .

That afternoon, with the mercury at 116 degrees, I stumbled upon the Orbit In with its atomic-era sign and closed gate. As I approached to peek inside, manager Jade Nelson spotted me and invited me in for a tour. For the next 40 minutes it was 1957 again, the year this hotel opened as The Village Manor. Portland residents Christy and Stan Amy purchased the aging motel in 1999; aided by Shulman's photos, they transformed it into today's Orbit In. The mid-century hotel reopened in March 2001 and Shulman himself was a guest at the grand opening party, signing copies of his book Modernism Rediscovered. In 2002 the Orbit was joined by an expansive sister hotel, the Hideaway, located nearby.

Julius Shulman was on my mind as I snapped photos of the courtyard in gorgeous late day sun. The Orbit lies at the base of the San Jacinto Mountains which add a stark, beautiful backdrop. As shadows slowly engulfed the pool area, it was time to tour "Atomic Paradise," one of the Orbit's nine rooms with decor straight out of a mid-century design museum.

The heat eventually drove me to the outdoor bar and its phalanx of misters, where I enjoyed the company of Jade and a fun couple who'd recently driven Route 66.

My thanks to Jade for an ultra-cool afternoon. If you're a fan of 1950s desert architecture, or looking to escape the bland sameness of today's hotel chains, check out the Orbit In. Their website is http://www.orbitin.com/. Yes, it's a shameless plug. Yes, I hope to return as a guest.

Snapshots from the Edge

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Wed, 05 Aug 2009 04:29:00 +0000

Desert Speedboat, West Palm Springs

(click to enlarge)

I was waiting for enough free time to write something witty or insightful for today's post . . . but the way things have been lately, that might not happen 'til August 2010. So, here are a few snapshots from a pivotal trip to Southern California last month, shooting new material for a possible second book. The roadside-related project isn't exactly on a fast track . . . but it also won't take 18 years like the last one. :-)

Squeezed between two weekend weddings, these 5 days of shooting took me to wonderful extremes of geography and culture that make California famous, as well as some unexpected high and low points. Bottom line, I was happy with the first "test drive" for this concept -- a good sign. Hope you enjoy the samples below. (*click images to "biggify")

Safari Inn at twilight, Burbank

Tramway Road, Palm Springs

Signs, Echo Park, Los Angeles

Union Pacific eastbound, Salton Sea

House of Spirits liquor store, Los Angeles

PS - Watch for photos soon from the amazing "Orbit In" hotel, one of the highlights of an impromptu stay in Palm Springs.

Odds N' Ends at the Dawn of July

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Tue, 30 Jun 2009 23:46:00 +0000

Fireworks, Florida style. Watching in awe are (L to R) Natalie Scott, Gregory Scott and Kat. Thanks to friends John and Debbie for dinner and a show. (click photo to enlarge)

FLORIDA: Okay, after visiting friends in Sarasota, I'll admit my long-held belief that Florida has nothing of interest is as misguided an idea as I've ever had (and there have been plenty, believe me). We were greeted by an outrageous lightning storm, toured the Ringling Museum, drank Key West brew, road-tripped to Anna Maria Island, ate alligator and Salty Dogs . . . and had the best steak of my life at Bern's in Tampa (thanks to my loving family for a killer Father's Day gift!).

The world's biggest miniature circus -- yes, I appreciate the irony.

The humidity was thick, but not as bad as New Orleans. Another landmark moment: we finally ate at a Steak n Shake, that vaunted cathedral of cholesterol revered by Midwest railfans. The next evening, while driving home from San Jose we stopped at an In-N-Out, thereby completing the holy grail for burger aficionados.

Florida is F-L-A-T . . . but she's a beauty when the sun gets low.

In other news . . .

HEMMINGS MOTOR NEWS REVIEWS R66R: A large envelope arrived Friday with pages from the August 2009 issue of Hemmings Motor News, a major car collector magazine . . . and a review of Route 66 Railway! Editor Jim Donnelly gives the book 3 of 4 stars ("Worth Reading") and adds that more car photos would have easily earned the "artful" book a fourth star. (They are a car magazine, after all . . .) Donnelly noted that "the vaunted tale of Route 66 has been told on paper and celluloid innumerable times, but not like this." Check out Hemmings' website at http://www.hemmings.com/.

UPCOMING EVENTS: Plans are in the works for book signings at Route 66 Days in Flagstaff, Arizona, and the Route 66 Rendezvous in San Bernardino, Calif. Both events will be in September . . . more details as they shape up.

RAILROADS OF CALIFORNIA BOOK: Author-photographer Brian Solomon has released his latest book, Railroads of California. It's a beautiful hardcover featuring photos of classic and contemporary trains across the Golden State. His writing and photography are at their usual top-notch form, and I'm pleased that he used a few of my photos. It's available at online retailers like Amazon and Karen's Books, plus hobby shops, etc.

MORE BOOK STUFF: Planning has begun for a second R66R printing, with a mid-July meeting at LARHF to plot things out. The trip to Southern California will also include a brief road trip to shoot material for the next book idea (God help us). No details yet since the idea is still evolving . . . stay tuned.

A Deal to Die For

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Sat, 13 Jun 2009 01:05:00 +0000

While visiting my home town of Fontana, Calif., a few days ago, we stumbled upon this funeral home "special" along Sierra Avenue. Sure, other shots from the trip are better but I couldn't wait to post this gem:

I'm sure the "two for one" special is next . . .

"Wow" Meets Warp Speed

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 06:38:00 +0000

"Space is disease and danger, wrapped in darkness and silence." -Leonard "Bones" McCoy.

I've been meaning to update the blog with some thoughts about Star Trek, the movie we've been awaiting for 2-plus years. Well, now that Kat and I have seen it four times and the movie has passed $225 million in box office . . . there's not much left to say but "wow." Director JJ Abrams, writers Roberto Orci and Alex Kurtzman, and all of the amazing cast knocked this one out of the park.

One movie a year gets this kind of attention from the Lawrence family. On opening night, Kat and pals Sydney & Alyssa were photographed for the online version of the Salinas Californian: http://tinyurl.com/create.php (hopefully it remains online a while). We tried to catch the IMAX Trek show during its 2-week run, but the only close screens were the lame "Mini-max" versions in San Jose. However, friend Rob Curtis came to the rescue last week during a visit to Southern California . . . he spotted a 9:40 "encore" showing at the Edwards IMAX in Ontario, Cal. We happily joined the Curtis family for two hours of amazing visuals and sound. If you can find a real IMAX show, it's easily worth the extra dough.

The best way to sum up the last month is this: A) finally, Trek is cool again, B) finally, optimism and fun are cool again, and C) this is the best I've felt to be Trekkie in almost 20 years. Special shout-out to TrekMovie.com, my favorite site for daily news and interviews. Is it too early to start counting down for the sequel?

The new crew (minus Spock, who's off-camera) . . . they nailed it.

History and Hope in San Bernardino

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Mon, 27 Apr 2009 00:45:00 +0000

We lived in San Bernardino for 10 years, before the Ketchum job offer whisked us to Silicon Valley and eventually the central coast. When I was growing up in nearby Fontana during the 1970s and 1980s, San Bernardino was always the "big city." Santa Fe's towering locomotive repair shops were there, along with Fedco and the Central City Mall (where I saw Star Wars for the first time).

Photo: View of redevelopment from the baggage area windows (click to enlarge)

Yet when we left San Bernardino in March 2000, we knew we were getting out just in time. San Bernardino was a city in crisis. The closings of Norton Air Force Base and the AT&SF shops delivered a tough one-two punch to this city of almost 200,000 . . . crime and blight were taking hold and things looked bleak. In the 10 years we lived at the corner of 25th and I Streets, we endured three break-ins, a smashed truck window, and a botched late-night car theft. So when it was time to go, we didn't look back.

The restored 1919 San Bernardino passenger depot

That's why Sunday, March 1 -- the anniversary of our move north -- was such a great day. While in southern California for a bunch of book signings and talks, I'd agreed to appear a "Railroad and History Book Signing Day" at the beautifully restored Santa Fe passenger depot near downtown 'San Berdoo.' The station is a big building, boasting a Spanish-Moorish architecture, and was once home to the railroad's dispatching and division offices. Today it's home to the San Bernardino History and Railroad Museum and its fascinating collection of railroad and Inland Empire memorabilia.

Museum interior (top) and semaphore signal lens study (below).

I've been in San Bernardino plenty of times during the past nine years, but I hadn't visited the museum since it opened in 2008. The authors' day allowed me to once again stand in the passenger lobby where for decades our family waited for Amtrak's Desert Wind and Southwest Chief trains. Even better were the visits from family, friends, railfans and retired Santa Fe people (plus I sold a case of Route 66 Railway books, which is always cool). After the event it was time to tour the museum and gift shop, which occupies much of the station's west end. It's a marvelous place and a must-see destination. The station is located at 1170 West Third Street; hours are 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Authors Greg McDonnell (left) and Glen Icanberry (center) chat with photographer Richard Sugg.

Last but not least, I finally had that long-awaited spark of inspiration for the next book. I've been evading the "what next" question for months, because frankly I had no idea what was next. Now I do. :-) It was a landmark day on many levels.

Let's hope this great museum and the surrounding redevelopment is the beginning of a long-anticipated renaissance for San Bernardino. Every September, the Route 66 Rendezvous car cruise event attracts hundreds of thousands of people. Thanks to the efforts of museum volunteers Steve Shaw, Glen Icanberry and others, people are finding more reasons to come back.

Below: Ray Miranda (top photo) and Bob Drenk (lower), both retired Santa Fe railroaders, stopped by the museum on March 1.

Kodak Moments from Winterail Weekend

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Sun, 29 Mar 2009 21:07:00 +0000

From left: El, Ted Benson, Jim Shaughnessy, Jeff Brouws, John Gruber and David Styffe at the California State Railroad Museum in Stockton, the day after Winterail. The Shaughnessy photo exhibit will continue at the museum through August 16. (Scott Lothes photo - click to enlarge)

The dust has finally settled after a whirlwind month that saw a six-day trip of book signings and talks followed by a weekend selling books at Winterail in Stockton -- a town famously referred to by railfan Donald Gill as "The Paris of the great Central Valley of California." We had an amazing day with Route 66 Railway book sales . . . that evening, the "Route 66 Rails" multimedia show played to a crowd of 1,000 rail photography fans. Several big talents who helped with the book were at Winterail, including Ted Benson, Dave Styffe, Gordon Glattenberg, Hank Graham, Tom Gildersleeve and Richard Sugg.

Between sales I managed to snap a few photos of authors, photographers and other notables who stopped by the table. Here's a sampling:

Author Joe Strapac with Doyle McCormack (l), caretaker of SP Daylight steam engine No. 4449 in Portland, Oregon.

El and Gordon Glattenberg, who photographed many of the 66 book's vintage color images.

Ted Benson (far left) with author-photographers Jeff Brouws and Jim Shaugnessy (l to r, seated), who were selling copies of Jim's marvelous photography book, The Call of Trains.

Photojournalist pals Brian Plant and Chris Goepel.

The family that sells together . . . Kat, Laura and El in a quiet moment.

The following day Ted, Dave Styffe and I caravanned up to the California State Railroad museum in Sacramento to see Jim Shaughnessy's photo exhibit and book presentation. Both were well worth the drive north, and photographer Scott Lothes was kind enough to take a group portrait.

Dave also updated his famous "Top ten lies told at Winterail" list this year. Not to steal his thunder, but highlights include:

7. "Yeah, I took a shower today, why?"
4. "One more lantern and that's it…my collection will be complete."
2. "My wife really wanted to be here this year, but…"

If you're on Facebook, visit his profile to read the full list . . . hopefully they will appear on his Unauthorized Observer blog. I'm just glad that Lie No. 10 no longer applies to me: "My book should be ready next year."

Coming next: photos from the book signing trip to Southern California.

To the Frakking End

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Fri, 20 Mar 2009 15:18:00 +0000

So many things to write about, and so little time . . .

We just came off a fantastic Winterail weekend, and I'll be posting pictures soon -- plus photos from the great southern California mini book tour. But that needs to wait for a day or two. Tonight I'm saying goodbye to the best show on TV: Battlestar Galactica.

Five years ago, I never dreamed I'd be saying those words above. All I remember then was the news that Ron Moore (a former Star Trek showrunner) was planning a "reboot" miniseries of the 1978 classic -- OK, "classic" may be a bit much, but for us kids swirling in 1970s Star Wars-mania, it was like getting a weekly fix of a galaxy far, far away. So what if the good guys were on the run and the bad guys looked like walking toasters? The ships were awesome and the characters were cool. And who's going to argue with Lorne Green as Commander Adama?

Take an FTL jump to present-day, and I can't imagine anyone other than Edward James Olmos as the great Admiral Adama. But the entire cast is amazing . . . as are the writers, who have redefined sci-fi with stories about war, politics, terrorism, sex, religion, and more. BSG is the only show that's truly tackled our post-9/11 world, and every week it asks the tough questions: are we worthy of survival? How far do we push our values and morals in the name of survival, without losing what makes us human?

Oh yeah, and then there are mind-blowing space battles, scary metallic Cylons and humanoid Cylons that look like supermodels. There's also Bear McCreary's amazing music, maybe the best EVER in television. (Check out his first-class blog HERE). And of course, there's "frak," the greatest curse word in TV history.

BSG "does bleak well," as one critic has said, so it's not for everyone. Eddie Olmos and Mary McDonnell are routinely robbed of Emmy nominations (she plays President Laura Roslin, the former secretary of education who becomes president after a sneak Cylon apocalypse). Heck, the show won a Peabody and countless other awards, yet the Emmy crew plods along in clueless bliss. But this isn't the time to dwell on such matters.

Bluffing is pretty much pointless

BSG is about a family that's born amid the worst of times, and how they hang onto each other to keep hope alive. These characters -- Apollo, Starbuck, Col. Tigh, Baltar, Helo, Sharon, Six -- have become real to me, and I've laughed and cried with them for five wonderful years. The best shows know when to quit, however, and now it's time to say goodbye. I have a feeling that BSG's legacy will last for decades, long after other shows from the era are forgotten. It's been a frakking good ride. So say we all.

Fun LA Times Battlestar stories:

The Tighs Toast a Final Goodbye (where I learned my favorite new word, "drunkalogue")

The 'Battlestar Galactica' Drinking Game

Public relations, Galactica style, at the HRmarketer.com blog:

Messaging and Mutinies

Books, Beers, and Bono

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Tue, 10 Mar 2009 17:05:00 +0000

No, Los Angeles Mayor Villaraigosa didn't make the show, but I couldn't resist the view.

I know, it's been a few months since the last blog post, but it's been a busy winter. First up was the completion and debut of the new "Route 66 Rails" program -- an 18-minute show based on the Route 66 Railway book. It appears that I'll be playing every Rotary and Kiwanas Club meeting between Salinas and Monterey, but hey, they keep inviting me . . . February 28-March 3 saw the first mini "book tour" in my old stomping grounds, with signings and/or talks in downtown LA, Pasadena, and San Bernardino. What an amazing six days: the books sold well, the shows ran smoothly, and people stayed awake! It was a great homecoming, topped off by some wonderful reunions. Watch for photos soon.

Next up is Winterail on March 14, where the show will get its biggest screening yet. Laura and Kat will be joining me in lovely Stockton, and we'll be selling books in the dealers room. Be sure to stop by and say hi.

The recent blitz of events pretty much killed my blog writing, but a rebound is around the corner. For now, this pretty much sums up the current sad state of affairs:

Pass me another Moretti.

By the way, U2's new CD, "No Line on the Horizon," is every bit as awesome as I'd hoped. After a week of near-constant play, my faves are "Breathe," "Moment of Surrender," "No Line on the Horizon," and . . . well, just about everything else. Greatest. Band. In the World. Check out their hysterical "Top 10 List "on Letterman HERE.

El's Favorite Photos from 2008

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Mon, 26 Jan 2009 01:27:00 +0000

Southern Pacific 4-6-2 2472 crosses State Route 84 in Niles Canyon, Cal., on August 31, 2008. (click to enlarge)

Honestly, I've been meaning to do this for over a month. The original plan was to do it January 1. Now I'm just happy to get it done in January! Last year I posted a "Rogue's Gallery" of my favorite photos from 2007, so I thought it would be interesting to see what images topped the list for 2008. Dave Styffe did a top 10 post last December that features some outstanding photos; unlike me, he had the presence of mind to do it before the year ended!

2008 was a watershed year, to say the least, with the completion and release of Route 66 Railway. Ironically, between the book launch events and private sales, I had less time to get out and do much shooting during the final 3 months of the year. So I went through the digital files with a little uncertainty, wondering if there would be enough good material to fill 10 slots.

To my surprise, I ended up with 16. Don't panic -- I'm not including them all! I edited the list down to 11, mostly railroad-related stuff. I may post a follow-up later on (hmm, with my track record that should appear around Memorial Day). :-)

One trend that was immediately obvious was that I'd shot far more steam than usual this past year, more than the past several years combined. Between Santa Fe #3751's LA-San Diego trips, Southern Pacific #2472's Niles Canyon excursions, and the Sierra Railroad's Winterail fantrip with McCloud River #18, it was an amazing year for California steam fans. The SP 2472 images benefit from the all-access pass I enjoyed while working on a Classic Trains article about the Niles Canyon Railway (shameless plug: it's arriving now in the Spring 2009 issue).

But these aren't limited to steam, as you'll see below. With that said, let's get on with the show (click to enlarge):

Former Santa Fe 4-8-4 #3751 steams along the LA River on June 1, bound for San Diego.

Like a scene out of Spielberg's Close Encounters, an eastbound BNSF freight rolls through the ruins of Tunnel 2 in Cajon Pass on March 1. At right is the new third mainline that triggered the daylighting of the Cajon tunnels. This image was one of two that helped score a bronze award by the Center for Rail Photography & Art.

The next morning, tunnel 1 resembles a toy tunnel as the heavens aligned and a Warbonnet helper was positioned perfectly for the morning sunlight.

My favorite neon catch of the year -- Twohey's, Alhambra, Cal., October 24.

Santa Fe survivor: dusk in Hobart Yard, Los Angeles, September 20.

Alco PA engine door, Nickel Plate 190, Portland, Oregon.

A Centennial is always going to make the cut . . .
UP 6936 leads a northbound special up the Coast Line at Harlem, Cal.

In a surreal morning on the Niles Canyon Railway, SP 2472 backs past
the Oakland business car at NCRY's Brightside yard.

Errol Ohlman fires the 2472 up the Niles Canyon grade . . .
my first serious cab ride aboard steam.

It wouldn't be complete without one quirky roadside shot: Highway 138, Littlerock, Cal.

Morning steam, Sierra Railroad, Oakdale, Cal.

Hope you enjoyed them! I'll do my best to keep the blog machine rolling in 2009.

2008: A Good Year

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Fri, 02 Jan 2009 23:20:00 +0000

Amtrak's Coast Starlight, the final train #11 for 2008, departs Salinas on December 31 . . . as GE no. 505 does her best Alco impression.

What a year. Fall 2008 can pretty much be summed up by the book's arrival, book sales, book PR, and the holidays (oh yeah, and those pesky PR clients). Many people are all-too-happy to shove 2008 out the airlock -- understandably so, for those beaten down by the financial collapse -- but I'll always look fondly on the year that Route 66 Railway finally came to life. Thanks to everyone who gave R66R such a warm welcome, and for helping make the past three months truly special.

The final photo of the year: the moon and Venus, seen from Aromas, Cal., on New Year's Eve.

I'm off to a "First Fridays" reception tonight at Salinas' restored Railway Express Building. In the next few days I'll post favorite photos from the past year. And maybe I can settle into a regular posting schedule for 2009 (we'll see).

Happy Birthday, Route 66

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Wed, 12 Nov 2008 07:05:00 +0000

It’s been a very good day.

But first things first: Happy birthday, Route 66! Today is the 82nd anniversary of the Mother Road’s commissioning, which took place on November 11, 1926. To duly celebrate the occasion, I pulled out my Old Smoky’s 66 mug (purchased in Williams, Arizona, a favorite Mother Road town) for the first cup of joe.

We’ve had a good run these past five days. On Friday, one of my greatest evenings ever took place when I gave an author’s talk and book signing at the National Steinbeck Center in Salinas. As part of the city’s “First Fridays Art Walk,” the Steinbeck was kind enough to host a “premiere reception” for Route 66 Railway. Attendance was much bigger than expected – nearly 100 people showed up through the evening! After speaking about the book, its messages and how it came to be (sprinkled with a few stories, including the infamous “reservation tale”), the crowd kept things going with another 30 minutes of questions. The Steinbeck’s supply sold out well before the talk was done, and we all had a grand time sharing memories of the Mother Road and its railway companion.

El does his best George Plimpton . . . hey, the crowd is still awake. (Kathryn Lawrence photos)

Today, with the Steinbeck rush still palpable, today’s agenda included a meeting at our “neighborhood” Borders, 20-something miles away in Sand City, near Monterey. Unfortunately, while Salinas is John Steinbeck's boyhood home, we have only a mall-encrusted B. Dalton to serve as the town’s chief bookseller. (Our other literary refuge is the Steinbeck Center bookstore, of course.)

At Borders I met with buyer Gail Larson and showed her a copy of R66R. Happily, she loved the book and is placing an order for 10 copies. We checked out the “travel narrative” section, where she plans to display the books (showcasing the “local author” angle, of course). It’s an important breakthrough into the mainstream bookseller market, and hopefully the first of many major locations. In an act of divine providence, Laura was off work for Veterans’ Day, and got to share in the success (after all, she did write a mean neon sidebar).

If that wasn’t enough, today Tim Lincecum—our favorite flame-throwing pitcher for the Giants and the salvation of a tough 2008 season—won the Cy Young Award!

Finally, just when I thought the day couldn’t get better, TrekMovie and Entertainment Weekly debuted the first image of the redesigned U.S.S. Enterprise for next year’s Star Trek movie (coming to theaters May 2009). What. A. Beauty. Gotta catch the trailer this weekend with Bond.

Every once in a while life fires on all cylinders, and a perfect day needs to be savored because we don’t know when the next will arrive.

Today was one of those.

They're Here

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Tue, 21 Oct 2008 18:30:00 +0000

I'm happy to say that Route 66 Railway has arrived.

Ten advance copies reached Los Angeles on October 2, and LARHF overnighted a copy to Lawrence Manor, arriving Oct. 4. The big shipment arrived at the Port of LA last weekend, not a moment too soon. This Friday, we'll drive down to the LARHF offices to make a major pick-up. On Sunday, we'll have the first signing party in Redlands, debuting the book to family, friends and members of the community. LARHF has updated their website and orders are now being taken at the online store, HERE.

It's hard to describe the feelings of the last few weeks . . . "surreal" is a commonly heard word these days. What matters most, of course, is that Tien Wah Press did a fantastic job. The books look beautiful, as good as I'd hoped. So far, our lone copy has racked up some serious "show-off" mileage!

For those who live in or near Central California, you're invited to a signing reception on Friday evening, November 7 at the National Steinbeck Center in Oldtown Salinas. I couldn't think of a better setting for a book with a chapter titled "The Ghost of Tom Joad." See http://www.66rails.com/ for details.

Oh, and to those who have read this at the 66rails blog . . . sorry for the double post, but it's big news! :-)

A sample page spread, from the opening of the New Mexico chapter.

Book Signings, Laura's Blog and Our Night with Omar

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Thu, 18 Sep 2008 20:56:00 +0000

A sample from Route 66 Railway: The opening page spread for the history chapter, with images from Gordon Glattenberg (right) and Howard Ande (left).

THE BOOK: It's just come off the presses, and I should see a set of completed pages this Monday to approve. The dust jacket showed up last week and is dazzling. We're so close! Advance copies are to be shipped from Singapore on Sept. 25 (cross your fingers), and the bulk shipment is scheduled (cross them again) to arrive at LARHF in mid October. For more info, check out the book site at http://www.66rails.com/ and read the author's shameless blog.

MARK YOUR CALENDARS: If you live near Central California or the Bay Area, the first big signing event will be at the National Steinbeck Center in Salinas on Friday, November 7, from 5 to 8 p.m. It's part of the Oldtown Salinas First Fridays Art Walk, and the center will be open to tour.

Omar Vizquel, future Hall of Fame shortstop and art star.

LAURA's RX: My wife debuted her new blog, "Prescription for Fun," and the latest post is about a grand evening we had in San Francisco on September 4. Caldwell Snyder Gallery held a reception for Giants shortstop Omar Vizquel, and during the course of the evening, we met and took pictures with Omar, Rich Aurilia, Peter McGowan, Brian Sabean, and best of all, broadcaster Mike Krukow. Plus Laura and I were interviewed for a Giants pre-game show, which should run this coming week. Check out the photos at her new blog, HERE.

El hangs with broadcaster/former pitcher Mike Krukow at the reception.

THANKS, BUT NO THANKS: For those who recall the accident last December, Costco sent us a membership renewal. Uh, we'll pass.

Remembering September 11

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Fri, 12 Sep 2008 01:18:00 +0000

Interfaith healing service, San Jose, 9/14/01

How many Americans stopped to watch the news this morning? How many went to work, spent the day in meetings, kept tabs on Wall Street . . . how many gave the seventh anniversary of the 9/11 terrorist attacks a passing glance, then went back to life as usual? Of course the country can't grind to a halt, but why is there no real pause? People seem all too willing to push this terrible date out of our minds.

We were at a "back-to-school" event at Monte Vista Christian last night, where we made the rounds of all Kat's classrooms, following her daily schedule. (Of course the periods were a LOT shorter, but we still had to hurry between bells!) When we arrived at Mr. Gott's Social Studies classroom, rows of huge black and white September 11 photos were laid out on the long tables. As we sat, the image that faced me was of a lone man against one of the towers, falling to his death. He had a graceful pose . . . one leg straight, the other knee bent, almost like a dancer. I couldn't stop staring.

Mr. Gott asked us not to reveal what we saw to the kids. When they walked into class this morning, they were greeted by those images posted across the walls; black velvet draped the door and the areas not covered by photographs. It turns out Kat was transfixed by the same image that held my gaze last night. But all the images are powerful. They speak of a moment we never expected, and will never forget. Thankfully no major attacks have happened since (for that we should thank our government, politics aside). But we know it's a matter of time before it happens again.

Watching the news today, and reading anniversary stories in the LA Times and elsewhere, caused me to think back to when it all happened. I pulled out a few slides I'd shot on the day of the attacks, back when I worked for the San Jose Downtown Association. That morning, as Dan Rather's radio voice told us the World Trade Center was no more, I arrived at Gilroy and hopped on a northbound Caltrain. I should have driven home instead, but by the time sanity prevailed it was too late. During lunch we walked around downtown in a daze, and picked up an extra edition of the Mercury News (remember extras?). I don't remember taking the photo of the newspaper carrier, but I bought a paper.

Three days later, San Jose held a midday inter-faith service that brought people together in a way I'd never seen before. A row of patriotic ladies caught my eye (top), and I was able to snap a few pictures while trying not to be crass. The day's Mercury News also captured the feeling of the week (look, a newspaper selling for 35 cents!).

Today Kat, Laura and I talked about 9/11/01, and Kat told us what she recalled from seeing that day as a six-year old. We talked about the towers, the people that jumped, the Pentagon attack, and the sacrifice of the NYPD, NYFD and Flight 93. We did our best to keep the memories alive of the Americans who were lost seven years ago. I hope others did too. As I write this, we're watching a History Channel special that is flooding us with memories. Footage from 9/11 should be required viewing every year, so we never forget. We owe that much to those who lost everything.

Labor Day Steam in Niles Canyon

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Fri, 15 Aug 2008 05:33:00 +0000

If you're a Southern Pacific steam fan, or just dig vintage trains, the Niles Canyon Railway near Fremont is running three days of steam excursions on Labor Day Weekend with 4-6-2 No. 2472, one of the classiest engines in California. Owned and operated by the Golden Gate RR Museum, this handsome Pacific is completely at home in Niles, where she and her sisters used to roam in Espee passenger days. Saturday, August 30 will see a photographer's special with matching Harimann passenger cars, a typical SP consist through the canyon during the 1920s, 30s and 40s.

I was lucky enough to ride the Memorial Day photo train on May 24 (above), and it was a blast. This short canyon is Disneyland for railfans: there are places where the views are unchanged from 100 years ago. An added bonus: the line runs over the original right-of-way of the first transcontinental route, dating back to pre-Central Pacific days . . . some bridge abutments and culverts were completed in 1866 by the first Western Pacific Railroad.

Trains are running Saturday, Sunday and Monday. 2472 will be under steam all three days, but is running on Saturday and Monday only. On Sunday, she'll be on display with a short train next to the Sunol depot while the regular Niles Canyon train operates. For more information or to buy tickets, click HERE.

Putting a (Dark) Smile on Our Faces

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Tue, 22 Jul 2008 19:00:00 +0000

"Whatever doesn't kill you . . . simply makes you stranger."

Like the great white star of Jaws, a theme announces his arrival . . . a noisy, steadily ascending blare, not unlike an air raid siren or an airplane free-falling to earth. When he's on screen, he dominates The Dark Knight. Batman's greatest villian has truly come to life.

Hannibal Lector. Norman Bates. Colonel Kurtz. Darth Vader. The Joker has joined them in the pantheon of Hollywood's all-time greatest villians.

I'll admit when the name Heath Ledger first crossed the newswires as the latest actor to play the Clown Prince of Crime, I was seriously concerned. Who? That was summer 2006, and he was best known for Brokeback Mountain. Cruel "Jokeback Mountain" jokes ensued. But we Batman Begins fans kept the faith, buoyed by director Chris Nolan and star Christian Bale, who'd brought us back from the bat-nippled abyss of Batman and Robin.

Then the first teaser photos appeared, followed by snippets of dialogue, and finally the Dark Knight trailers in all their glory. The critics were silenced, and July 18, 2008 was circled on the calendar.

The Bat-pod: I gotta get me one of those (Warner Bros. pic)

"Good evening, ladies and gentlemen . . . we are tonight's entertainment."

It's been nearly a week since Kat, Jack and I stood in line for our first-ever midnight movie. All I can say is The Dark Knight was worth three years of waiting, three hours in line, and three hours of sleep the next day. In a world where "amazing" and "spectacular" have lost some of their impact, this one deserves the accolades: it's more like a crime thriller and psychological drama than a superhero movie, examining the blurry line between good and evil and the price of heroism. Those of us who grew up with Batman finally have a movie that returns Bruce Wayne to his noir roots, and gets the Joker-Batman relationship right (nothing against Jack Nicholson's portrayal, which we still love, but this is the real deal). And oh yeah, it's a two-hour, 30-minute thrill ride.

The breathless news media want you to believe that Knight's box office records are the result of morbid curiosity for a young actor who left us too soon, but it couldn't be farther from the truth. Of course, Heath Ledger's death tinges the film with sadness (especially during his final scenes with Bale), but we've been waiting for this performance long before the bad news broke. Heath's Joker is a character for the ages . . . it's a tour de force of twisted fun. Plus he does a mean disappearing pen trick.

All that's left is to buy the soundtrack, a thrilling piece of work by Hans Zimmer and James Newton Howard (starting with the Joker's theme, with its single-note structure twisted and transformed like it was pressed through a Nine Inch Nails filter). Next we need a roadtrip to San Francisco and catch an IMAX show . . . six action scenes were filmed with the giant cameras, including a jaw-dropping chase scene that involves a SWAT truck, a semi, and Batman's Tumbler.

Mainly, I just need to see it again.

Jack who? (WB pic)

The Road to Portland

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Sun, 13 Jul 2008 05:58:00 +0000

It's been a busy few weeks . . . round three of page proofing for the book is now done; Route 66 Railway has officially been put to bed! Final corrections were sent back Monday morning. This came on the heels of a week reviewing nearly 250+ final images and returning them to the printer with our comments (riveting examples include "slightly less magenta" and "jackrabbit should be grey"). Once I approve the redone proofs, we're on our way to a September release.

This post began Saturday evening. I'd planned to finish it up Sunday, but Tim Lincecum and the Giants finally gave us an exhilarating (and sorely needed) win. On Monday we saw The Police in concert and Tuesday night was consumed by a 15-inning All-Star Game (with the same sadly predictable outcome -- God, I hate the AL!). As I write this Wednesday evening, we're just 24 hours away from a midnight screening of The Dark Knight. Man, I have waited years for this! Heath Ledger's passing has made the event bittersweet, but I hope to set that aside for two-plus hours when the lights dim at 12:01 a.m.

So before any more time passes, here are some photos from our first vacation in some time: a train ride to Portland, Oregon in late June/early July. The Lawrence family traveled north from Salinas on Amtrak's Coast Starlight, and later flew back [insert 'tired arms' joke]. How fun to jump on a train less than 15 minutes from home, with no security lines . . . no pushy people . . . no need to slip off our shoes . . . and no coach seating. The added bonus: train no. 14 carried a 1956 ex-Santa Fe Hi-level lounge, recently refurbished by Amtrak and looking damn sharp with cushy seats, a nice lunch menu and afternoon wine tasting. Without further rambling:

California is burning, but man, that's some cool lighting along Elkhorn Slough.

Soaking up those Santa Fe vibes.

More wine, Midge? (*yes, it's an inside joke)

We were treated to a two-hour delay in the Cascade Mountains when a UP freight encountered problems. Yes, treated. Unlike flying, falling behind schedule on a train means more train time. And that's always cool. After waiting 40 minutes, our crew decided to back us to a clearing where smokers could be unloaded, not to mention two railfans who needed some Cascade air . . . below is Kat with a snowball on June 26.

More to come soon. Tomorrow, to quote the newest Clown Prince of Crime, it's time to "put a smile on that face."

There Goes the Neighborhood

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Tue, 24 Jun 2008 04:54:00 +0000

California and the nation are sinking into a sea of foreclosures and auction signs, and Salinas is no exception. A casual drive around our neighborhood reveals dozens of "For Sale" signs, empty houses and dead lawns. It's starting to feel like a ghost town . . . our generation's version of places like Bodie and Ludlow.

When we moved to Salinas in July 2001, fairly-new homes were fetching up to $400,000; at the height of the boom, people were asking for more than $700K! So we rented. For years friends told us to buy now, before prices went completely out of reach. Boy, we're glad we waited. Laura once said that the only way we'd be able to buy would be by "capitalizing on someone else's misery." She was thinking more along the lines of a major earthquake, though, not the collapse of the entire housing market.

Our first real estate venture wasn't entirely successful -- we bought in San Bernardino at the height of the market in 1989, and within a year and a half our home lost 25 percent of its value. We perservered, and 10 years later we were happy to sell for $6,000 more than we originally paid. Perhaps the real estate fairy will smile on us this time. There's something to be said for patience.

The Atlantic, one of my favorite magazines, recently ran an article about America's next slums. They won't be in the inner cities, the writer said; they'll be in the suburbs. During the past decade, urban subdivisions sprawled across the Southwest with little thought to the future. Today, driving past clusters of auction signs, I'd say the future has arrived.

Back in Action

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Tue, 10 Jun 2008 05:10:00 +0000

After the scary events of last December, and the "winter of our discontent" (see here) . . . it was an immensely happy moment to watch Laura cross the finish line in the Big Sur International Marathon on April 27. OK, she was actually part of a relay team, joining her fellow Monterey County planning managers, but it was still a great achievement. Her approximate time was just over an hour for the 4.2 mile segment.

Where's Laura? Crossing the finish line on Highway 1, of course! Another barrier broken.

Above, the relay team poses for a portrait in Carmel. From left: Jacqueline Onciano, Carl Holm, Mike Novo, and Laura. Below, mementos mark the occasion . . . if the timing works out, she'll be back next year.

From Gamers to Goners

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Tue, 01 Apr 2008 21:07:00 +0000

Yes, we suck, but this shirt will never get old.

If you’re a baseball fan, I don’t have to tell you that yesterday was Opening Day, a mini-holiday of sorts. Our Giants and the L.A. Dodgers each kicked off celebrations of 50 years on the West Coast. And what a glorious game: the pitching ace was on the mound . . . the cleanup hitter delivered the death blow (a 2-run homer) in the first inning . . . the shortstop made a dazzling play . . . and the bullpen preserved the shutout with a final score of 5-0.

Oh, wait -- that was the OTHER 50th anniversary team. WE had Barry Zito pitching. WE had the old guys playing. Osama's cave was filled with joy.

Honestly, we realized a few weeks ago that this was going to be a long year . . . but after watching yesterday’s feeble opening, well . . . it’s REALLY going to be a long year. Thank God there were other games last night to cleanse my palette and remind me what real baseball is. Then again, I’ve never laughed as hard at the McCovey Chronicles blog as I did yesterday. The Giants train-wreck/entertainment value is going to be through the roof this year.

It may be time to take John Belushi’s advice in Animal House: “My advice to you is to start drinking heavily.”

Barry Zito, our $128 million ace, picks out suits during happier times . . . i.e., before opening day 2007. Minutes later, he blew off a group of kids asking for his autograph. Yep, that's our face of the franchise.

Altamont's Summit Garage

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Tue, 25 Mar 2008 22:23:00 +0000

“This place is worth saving,” says Linda Krhut, owner of the Creative Cave in California’s Altamont Pass.

She’s standing at the shady doorway of the old Summit Garage in Altamont Pass, elevation 741 feet, just a stone’s throw from the abandoned Southern Pacific mainline to Oakland. Beside the empty grade is the former Western Pacific between Oakland and Stockton, now home to ACE commuter trains and Union Pacific freights.

A chance side trip on Altamont Pass Road led me to the Summit Garage, recently dedicated with a “Historic Lincoln Highway” sign. I met Linda while hurrying to get my Ranger out of the path of an oncoming trash truck, who had waited not-so patiently while I blissfully (some would say cluelessly) snapped pictures. Once the refuse truck had moved on, Linda and I struck up a conversation and she invited me in for a quick tour of the garage. Now called the Creative Cave, the place will soon open as an antiques shop. Linda, who’s lived here for three years, will also sell her stained glass and jewelry creations; a few Harleys and old Fords will round out the historic setting . . . although Linda’s old Chrysler (which still runs) does a good job of infusing the garage with proper charm.

Not a train rolled by during my visit, but this was clearly the highlight of my drive to Winterail in Stockton. The train gods rewarded me later with a sunny view of another vintage machine – 1963-built GP30u No. 2442, still proudly wearing AT&SF blue and yellow.

Be sure to visit the Summit Garage when you get a chance . . . I know I’ll be back.

Another classic in Stockton

Chasing the Daylight Domeliner

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:42:00 +0000

Pacing 1996 and train (see mirror) near San Ardo

Ever since Union Pacific unveiled her at Roseville, California last summer, I've been hoping to catch Southern Pacific "Heritage" diesel no. 1996 on the old SP Coast Line. The planets finally aligned last Saturday, Feb. 23, when UP placed her on the point of a business special from Oakland to West Colton. Railroad forces gave the Daylight-painted engine a bath before departure, and the seven-car train cruised down the Salinas Valley under overcast skies (but no rain, thankfully). And what a pretty train -- three domes, and two cars from SP's old business car fleet -- with former "Espee" biz car Sunset bringing up the rear. I'd recovered from a cold just enough that Kat and I headed out that day for an old-fashioned chase. We met the 1996 South at Aromas, then followed her down the valley to Bradley . . . where we finally turned around to head home. It's been months since we chased a train, and we made the most of it. Below are a few images from a fun day:

The first encounter at Aromas . . . 1996's air horn echoing through the Pajaro Valley

The Coast Line was home to the Daylights, but this classy train fits right into the Salinas Valley. (2 views)

Searchlight signals and emerald hills at Bradley . . . our final runby of the day.

Cover Me

noreply@blogger.com (Elrond L) — Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:06:00 +0000

As regular visitors to the 66rails website already know, the Route 66 Railway book has a cover:

It's a screen grab from a PDF, but you get the idea. About 40 pages are done -- roughly one-fourth of the book, but things are moving at a quick pace. I'm heading down to southern California this weekend to meet with the designer and publisher . . . tomorrow I'll visit what remains of the Cajon Pass tunnels before BNSF demolishes them in early March. If you're heading to Winterail on March 8, be sure to stop by the LARHF table, where we'll have sample page spreads to show. Or register HERE for news and updates at the book's website.