This classic lamb stew, served over a smoky aubergine (eggplant) purée in a béchamel sauce, dates to the Ottoman period, and is still an iconic dish enjoyed in İstanbul today. The story goes that when Empress Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III, visited the Topkapı Palace as a guest of Sultan Abdülaziz, the Palace chefs learned about béchamel from Eugenie’s chefs and combined the sauce with the local favourite, smoked aubergine. Eugenie loved the combination, which pleased the Sultan very much, hence the name Hünkar Beğendi, meaning Sultan’s Delighted!

I absolutely adore this dish, especially the beğendi sauce; it is well worth the effort it takes to make as it has a distinctive smoky flavour, that is very special. Once you’ve mastered it, you can also serve it with any grilled meat, chicken and, for a vegetarian option, topped with baked vegetables. Biber salçası (red pepper paste) adds warmth and a rich depth of flavour.

Prepare ahead and variation The smoked aubergine can be prepared a day ahead and kept covered in the refrigerator, as can the beğendi sauce. Warm the sauce in a pan over a low heat for about 5 minutes, stirring often, just before serving. If you prefer, you can use chunks of beef instead of the traditional lamb.

I hope you enjoy this very special dish, Hünkar Beğendi, from my cookbook ISTANBUL, Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City. You can get a copy here worldwide.

Hünkar Beğendi; Sultan’s Lamb Stew Over Smoked Aubergine and Béchamel Sauce

 

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This classic lamb stew, served over a smoky aubergine (eggplant) purée in a béchamel sauce, dates to the Ottoman period, and is still an iconic dish enjoyed in İstanbul today. The story goes that when Empress Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III, visited the Topkapı Palace as a guest of Sultan Abdülaziz, the Palace chefs learned about béchamel from Eugenie’s chefs and combined the sauce with the local favourite, smoked aubergine. Eugenie loved the combination, which pleased the Sultan very much, hence the name Hünkar Beğendi, meaning Sultan’s Delighted! I absolutely adore this dish, especially the beğendi sauce; it is well worth the effort it takes to make as it has a distinctive smoky flavour, that is very special. Once you’ve mastered it, you can also serve it with any grilled meat, chicken and, for a vegetarian option, topped with baked vegetables. Biber salçası (red pepper paste) adds warmth and a rich depth of flavour.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: Stews

Cuisine: Turkish Cuisine

Serves: 4-5

Ingredients

• For the lamb stew
• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) leg of lamb, cut into 3 x 3 cm (1¼ x 1¼ in) cubes
• 15 g (1 tablespoon) salted butter
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 green (bell) pepper or 2 sivri biber, deseeded and finely chopped
• 2 large garlic cloves, crushed and finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon double concentrated tomato purée (paste)
• 1 tablespoon biber salçası (red pepper paste, see page xx for homemade)
• 400 g (14 oz) can chopped tomatoes or 4 medium, ripe tomatoes, chopped
• 85 ml (3½ fl oz) water
• salt and freshly ground black pepper
• small handful of flat leaf parsley, chopped, for garnish
• For the beğendi sauce
• 3 medium aubergines (eggplants)
• juice of ½ small lemon
• 55 g (2 oz) butter
• 85 g (3 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour (use gluten-free flour, if preferred)
• 585 ml (20 fl oz) whole milk, warmed
• 120 g (4 oz) taze kaşar or medium Cheddar cheese, grated

Instructions

1. Put the butter and a tablespoon of the olive oil in a wide, heavy pan (one with a diameter of 28 cm/11 in works well) and warm over a medium-high heat. Stir in the lamb and brown to seal in their juices for 2–3 minutes, then remove the lamb with a slotted spoon and place in a dish. Add the remaining olive oil to the pan, stir in the onions and peppers and sauté them over a medium-high heat for 4 minutes; they will soften and shrink in size. Stir in the garlic, tomato purée and biber salçası and combine well for a minute. Return the lamb chunks to the pan, along with their juices and combine well. Stir in the chopped tomatoes and water (swirling a little of the water in the can to capture any remaining bits of tomato) and season with salt and black pepper. Bring to the boil, then cover the pan, lower the heat and simmer for 50–60 minutes until the sauce has thickened and the lamb pieces are tender. Turn off the heat and taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. Allow the stew to rest, covered, for 10 minutes.
2. While the lamb stew is simmering, make the sauce.
3. Cook the aubergines on a barbecue grill or over an open gas flame on a high heat, turning them every 3–4 minutes using tongs, until the outer skin is charred and blistered and the inner flesh soft. Depending on their size, this should take about 25 minutes. Alternatively, if you prefer not to have the smoky flavour, prick the aubergines in 4–5 places and bake in an oven preheated to 200°C fan/220°C (425°F) for 40 minutes, or until they feel very soft when pressed and the skins are wrinkled, turning them over halfway through cooking. When cool enough to handle, peel away the burnt skins and discard the stalks.
4. Place the aubergine flesh in a colander and gently squeeze to drain away any bitter juices. Chop coarsely, then put in a bowl with the lemon juice and mash with a fork. Make the béchamel sauce by melting the butter in a pan set over a medium heat. Add the flour and beat well to make a roux (foundation of a white sauce). Slowly add the warm milk, whisking continuously to get a smooth consistency, then cook for about 4 minutes, until the sauce has thickened. Add the mashed aubergine with a little salt and black pepper and simmer for a further 2 minutes. Add the cheese, stir for a minute, then remove from the heat.
5. Spread the beğendi sauce over plates and top with the lamb stew, then sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve hot, perhaps with the regal İç Pilav, if you wish, as an accompaniment.

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These moist, grainy cookies are one of the most popular sweets in Türkiye, often served on special days and at religious festivities and are offered in pastanes, patisseries, restaurants for daily enjoyment in İstanbul. Meaning ‘a piece of sugar or sweet’ in Old Turkish, they are of Persian and Indian origin and first appeared in Ottoman Palace cuisine in the 17th century. Variations of şekerpare are also enjoyed throughout the Balkans and the Middle East. Sahrap Soysal and Nesrin Aşıkhasanoğlu very kindly provided tips for my version, which contains lemon juice and zest to balance out the sweetness. I love the grainy semolina in these moist cookies; ideally, they are made a day ahead, so they can absorb the syrup and become tender enough to eat with a fork. They’ll keep, covered, in a single layer, for 3–4 days.

Scrumptious sweets, including these moist Sekerpare cookies are included at my cookbook ISTANBUL, Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City. You can get a copy here worldwide.

Şekerpare; Tender Semolina Cookies in Syrup

 

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These moist, grainy cookies are one of the most popular sweets in Türkiye, often served on special days and at religious festivities and are offered in pastanes, patisseries, restaurants for daily enjoyment in İstanbul. Meaning ‘a piece of sugar or sweet’ in Old Turkish, they are of Persian and Indian origin and first appeared in Ottoman Palace cuisine in the 17th century. Variations of şekerpare are also enjoyed throughout the Balkans and the Middle East. Sahrap Soysal and Nesrin Aşıkhasanoğlu very kindly provided tips for my version, which contains lemon juice and zest to balance out the sweetness. I love the grainy semolina in these moist cookies; ideally, they are made a day ahead, so they can absorb the syrup and become tender enough to eat with a fork. They’ll keep, covered, in a single layer, for 3–4 days.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: Sweets

Cuisine: Turkish cuisine

Serves: 4 - 6

Ingredients

• For the syrup
• 400 g (14 oz) sugar
• 450 ml (16 fl oz) water 1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
• For the dough 125 g (4½ oz) unsalted butter, softened
• 1 medium egg, beaten
• 55 g (2 oz) icing (powdered) sugar, sifted
• 1 teaspoon baking powder 110 g (4 oz) coarse semolina 255 g (9 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted zest of a medium unwaxed lemon
• 1 medium egg yolk, beaten, for brushing
• 1 tablespoon ground unsalted pistachios, to decorate

Instructions

1. First make the syrup. Put the sugar and water in a pan, place over a medium-high heat and bring to the boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the lemon juice, simmer for 15 minutes, then set aside to cool. You can make the syrup a day ahead and keep it covered in a cool place.
2. Put the butter, icing sugar and whole beaten egg in a large bowl and mix using a balloon whisk until smooth and well combined. Stir in the baking powder, semolina, flour and lemon zest, then knead with your hands for 2–3 minutes until you have a semi-soft dough.
3. Preheat the oven to 160˚C fan/180˚C (350˚F). Take a piece of dough a little larger than a ping pong ball and roll it into an oval shape, then gently flatten it so it has a height of about 1 cm (½ in). Pinch both ends so they are pointy, then place in a 35 cm round (or square) baking dish that has a depth of 5 cm (2 in). Continue making oval shapes this way until you have used all the dough, placing them on the baking dish 3 cm (1¼ in) apart. Brush with beaten egg yolk, then, using the back of a small fork, make indentation lines on top of each şekerpare.
4. Bake for about 30 minutes, until light golden on top.
5. Remove from the oven and immediately pour the cooled syrup over the hot şekerpare cookies, tilting the baking dish and spooning the syrup over the top of them a few times. Allow the şekerpare to absorb the syrup for 2-3 hours.
6. Before serving, sprinkle a little ground pistachio in the centre of each şekerpare, and drizzle with a little syrup, if you wish. Perfect with a glass of çay (Turkish tea) or Türk kahvesi (Turkish coffee).

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Mercimek Çorbası is my family’s favourite soup and it can probably lay claim to being the nation’s too. The version found most commonly in İstanbul is made purely with lentils, puréed to a smooth consistency but, like my mother, I add carrots and potatoes to mine as I always have a few that need using. The pul biber-infused olive oil adds another layer of flavour and a gentle heat. Incredibly easy to make and packed full of flavor, it’s like having a warm hug.

Prepare ahead I usually make double the quantity and freeze the extra so there’s something to be enjoyed when hungry on cold, winter days.

I hope you enjoy one of my favourite soups from my cookbook ISTANBUL, Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City, you can get a copy here worldwide.

Süzme Mercimek Çorbası; Red Lentil Soup with Carrots and Potatoes

 

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Mercimek Çorbası is my family’s favourite soup and it can probably lay claim to being the nation’s too. The version found most commonly in İstanbul is made purely with lentils, puréed to a smooth consistency but, like my mother, I add carrots and potatoes to mine as I always have a few that need using. The pul biber-infused olive oil adds another layer of flavour and a gentle heat. Incredibly easy to make and packed full of flavor, it’s like having a warm hug.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: Soups

Cuisine: Turkish cuisine

Serves: 4

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 medium onion, finely chopped
• 1 small carrot (about 85 g (3 oz), cut into small cubes
• 1 medium potato (about 100 g (3½ oz), cut into small cubes
• 255 g (9 oz) red split lentils, rinsed and drained
• 25 g (1 oz) long grain rice, rinsed and drained
• 1.3 litres (5½ cups) hot water
• 25 g (1 oz) butter (or plant-based option)
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• juice of 1 lemon
• salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• For the pul biber infused olive oil
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon pul biber (use more if you like heat!)
• lemon wedges, to serve

Instructions

1. Pour the olive oil into a large, heavy pan, add the onion, carrots and potato and sauté for 4–5 minutes over a medium-high heat, stirring often. Add the lentils, rice and hot water, bring to boil, skimming off any froth with a spoon, then partially cover, reduce the heat and simmer for 20–25 minutes or until the lentils, rice and vegetables are cooked.
2. Stir occasionally to ensure the lentils don’t stick to the bottom of the pan and add a little more water if the soup is thicker than to your liking.
3. Once the lentils, rice and vegetables are cooked, stir in the butter, cumin and lemon juice, and season with salt and black pepper. I love this soup rustic and chunky just as it is, but if you’d prefer it to have a smooth consistency, allow it to cool and then purée it using a stick blender. Then warm the soup in the pot again.
4. Just before serving, pour the olive oil into a small pan placed over a low-medium heat, stir in the pul biber and allow it to infuse for 35 seconds.
5. Ladle the hot soup into bowls and drizzle over the infused oil. Serve with a wedge of lemon on the side. Since the soup thickens as it sits, you may need to add a little more water if you are eating later.

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Turks are huge lovers of tost. It is our all-day snack, and you will be offered it at every café and tostçu (a sort of toaster maker hut), as well as on the vapur (ferries) cruising between the European and Asian sides of İstanbul, along with a glass of çay (Turkish tea). This Yengen Tost, also known as karışık tost, acts like a trip down memory lane for me, as it is something I had often when I studied at Beşiktaş Kız Lisesi (Besiktas Girls High School) in Çırağan, İstanbul. The oozy cheese, tangy pickles, spiced sucuk (dried cured beef sausage) and juicy tomato slices provide a delicious symphony of flavours.

I like to use ekşi mayalı ekmek (white sourdough), but you can use your own choice of bread, including gluten-free. The Yengen Tost served at my school canteen had a tomato-based sauce, so that is the version I have recreated here; when in İstanbul, you may also be offered mayonnaise and ketchup. Spiced sucuk is well worth sourcing, but you can use other cured meats if you prefer. I hope you enjoy this delicious, easy to make Yengen toastie from my cookbook ISTANBUL, Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City.  You can get a copy here worldwide.

Variations Use any melting cheese of your choice. For a vegetarian option, replace the sucuk with slices of portabello mushrooms sautéed in olive oil and seasoned with a sprinkle of ground cumin and pul biber.

Yengen Tost; Toastie with Cheese, Sucuk, Tomato and Pickles

 

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Turks are huge lovers of tost. It is our all-day snack, and you will be offered it at every café and tostçu (a sort of toaster maker hut), as well as on the vapur (ferries) cruising between the European and Asian sides of İstanbul, along with a glass of çay (Turkish tea). This Yengen Tost, also known as karışık tost, acts like a trip down memory lane for me, as it is something I had often when I studied at Beşiktaş Kız Lisesi (Besiktas Girls High School) in Çırağan, İstanbul. The oozy cheese, tangy pickles, spiced sucuk (dried cured beef sausage) and juicy tomato slices provide a delicious symphony of flavours. I like to use ekşi mayalı ekmek (white sourdough), but you can use your own choice of bread, including gluten-free. The Yengen Tost served at my school canteen had a tomato-based sauce, so that is the version I have recreated here; when in İstanbul, you may also be offered mayonnaise and ketchup. Spiced sucuk is well worth sourcing, but you can use other cured meats if you prefer. Variations Use any melting cheese of your choice. For a vegetarian option, replace the sucuk with slices of portabello mushrooms sautéed in olive oil and seasoned with a sprinkle of ground cumin and pul biber.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: Toasties

Cuisine: Turkish cuisine

Serves: 2-3

Ingredients

• 4 large slices ekşi mayalı ekmek or white sourdough bread, each about 23 x 8 cm (9 x 3 in) in size, and of medium thickness, or bread of your choice (including gluten-free)
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 130 g (4½ oz) sucuk (dried cured beef sausage), outer skin removed and cut into 5 mm (1/4 in) thick slices
• ½ tablespoon double concentrated tomato purée (paste)
• 1 tablespoon tomato ketchup
• 2 tablespoons water
• 2 medium or 1 large tomato, thinly sliced
• 100 g (3½ oz) salatalık turşusu or pickled gherkins, sliced
• 100 g (3½ oz) taze kaşar, or mild or medium Cheddar, cut into 4 slices
• salted butter, softened

Instructions

1. Pour the oil into a wide, non-stick pan and place over a medium-high heat. Add the sucuk slices and sauté them on one side for 2 minutes, then flip them over and sauté for a further minute or so on the other side until charred along the edges. Reduce the heat to low, stir in the tomato purée, ketchup and water, and combine well for 30 seconds. Remove from the heat, place the sucuk mixture and sauce in a bowl, cover to keep warm, and set aside.
2. Quickly clean and dry the pan. Spread butter on one side of two of the bread slices and place them, buttered side down, in the pan. Spread the sucuk mixture evenly over both slices, place two slices of cheese on each, then top with sliced tomatoes and gherkins, distributing them evenly over both toasties. Top with the remaining two slices of bread.
3. Return the pan to a medium heat and place a flat, heatproof plate over the toasties. Gently press down on the plate and cook the toasties for about 4 minutes, until golden brown on the underside.
4. Carefully remove the plate and swiftly butter the top sides of the toasties, then flip them onto to their other side, using a fish slice. Place the plate back on top and cook for a further 3–4 minutes, gently pressing down on the plate once again, until the yengen tost is golden brown and the cheese is melting.
5. Serve immediately, sliced in half; with a glass of çay, Turkish tea, as we do, if you like.

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I love our crispy mücver fritters, though I equally enjoy this easy baked version, from my new cook book ISTANBUL; it is packed full of flavour, freshness and lighter too. My dear mum, Gülçin, made this often for us when I was growing up; it suited our busy weekday suppers perfectly in Istanbul, now it is a regular feature in my home too. They are softer in texture (sort of like a crustless quiche) and a great way to finish up other vegetables in hand – try using grated beets, squash here, as variations. You need to squeeze out the excess moisture from the grated courgettes so that your Fırın Mücveri won’t be soggy.

Prepare ahead: You can bake Fırın Mücveri a day ahead and keep in the fridge, covered. You can also freeze baked slices in one layer, covered. To reheat, place baking paper on a baking dish and place the Fırın Mücveri slices on to warm up  for 15- 20 minutes at a preheated oven at fan 180C/200C/400F.

I hope you enjoy this delicious bake, great to use up zucchini (courgettes), as well as other veg and herbs in hand. This and over 80 delicious, easy to make recipes (over 50 of them vegetarian) are at my new cookbook ISTANBUL, Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City. You can get a copy here worldwide.

Afiyet Olsun,

Ozlem x

Fırın Mücveri - Baked courgettes with feta, herbs

 

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I love our crispy mücver fritters, though I equally enjoy this easy baked version, from my new cook book ISTANBUL; it is packed full of flavour, freshness and lighter too. My dear mum, Gülçin, made this often for us when I was growing up; it suited our busy weekday suppers perfectly in Istanbul, now it is a regular feature in my home too. They are softer in texture (sort of like a crustless quiche) and a great way to finish up other vegetables in hand – try using grated beets, squash here, as variations. You need to squeeze out the excess moisture from the grated courgettes so that your Fırın Mücveri won’t be soggy.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: Vegetarian

Cuisine: Turkish, Mediterranean

Serves: 6-8

Ingredients

• 3 medium courgettes (about 640g/1lb 6oz), trimmed and grated
• 1 medium carrot (115g/4oz), trimmed and grated
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 4 spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 15g/1/2 oz fresh dill leaves, finely chopped
• 28g/1oz flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 4 medium eggs, beaten
• 225g/ 8oz beyaz peynir or feta, drained and crumbled
• 100g/3 ½ oz all-purpose plain flour (use gluten-free flour if preferred)
• 1tsp baking powder
• 4tbsp olive oil (plus 2 tbsp for greasing)
• Salt and ground black pepper to taste
• For the garlic yoghurt:
• 425g/15oz plain (preferably) whole milk yoghurt
• 2 garlic cloves, crushed with salt and finely chopped

Instructions

1. Preheat oven at fan oven 180C/200C/400F.
2. Gently press to squeeze out excess moisture from the grated carrots, using a clean tea towel or sturdy paper towels and place in a large mixing bowl. Place the grated courgette in a colander, sprinkle with a little salt and leave to drain for 10 minutes. Using a clean tea towel, or sturdy paper towels, and really squeeze out any excess juice from them and put in the large bowl. Stir in the remaining ingredients and 4tbsp olive oil. Season with salt and ground black pepper to your taste, bearing mind that the feta or beyaz peynir is salty too. Using your hands, combine everything well homogenously.
3. Cover a 26-27 cm diameter round baking dish with 5cm height (or other shapes available) with baking paper, covering the sides. Pour 1tbsp olive oil and brush the base and sides. Pop this dish to the oven to heat for 4-5 minutes. Take the hot dish out of the oven and promptly spoon the prepared mixture over, in a smooth layer. Bake for 50 - 55 minutes, until the top is golden brown.
4. Grease a slightly larger round baking dish or a tray with the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil. Using oven gloves, carefully turn the Fırın Mücveri over this dish and peel out the baking paper. Return this to the oven and bake further 25-30 minutes, until this side is golden brown and crisped around the edges too. Take out from the oven and let it rest for 15 minutes.
5. For the garlic yoghurt; peel the garlic cloves by crushing them with the flat side of a knife and the heel of your hand. Finely chop and sprinkle over a pinch of salt. Using the flat side of the knife, gently squash the chopped garlic to turn it into a fine paste. In a medium bowl, combine the yoghurt with the garlic paste. Check the seasoning, adding a little more salt if needed.
6. Once rested, slice Fırın Mücveri and serve warm or at room temperature with garlic yoghurt. Pickles and a refreshing salad, for instance Turplu Yeşil Salata from ISTANBUL cookbook would be lovely aside too.

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We love pancar (beetroot) and great big bunches of it can be found in our pazar (farmers markets) in İstanbul. The modern eateries and cafés of the city also serve it in salads, usually cooked and then dressed in oil and vinegar, but sometimes grated and mixed with yoghurt too. Inspired by this, I combined cooked beetroot with briny green olives and crunchy, toasted hazelnuts, ingredients that bring layers of flavour and texture to this easy meze. The nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses) in the dressing adds a natural sweet-and-sourness that goes well with the beetroot, complementing both the cooling yoghurt and the heat of the pul biber oil. You can replace the hazelnuts with your choice of nuts, if you wish.

Prepare ahead This is a great one to make ahead, as the flavours develop as it sits. You can make it a day ahead and keep in the refrigerator, covered. Drizzle the pul biber oil just before serving.

I hope you enjoy my recipe, from ISTANBUL cookery book. Over 85 delicious, easy to make flavours from Istanbul included in the book (over 50 of them vegetarian too), along with stunning design and photography. You can get a copy here

Afiyet Olsun,

Ozlem x

Beetroot with Olives, Toasted Hazelnuts and Pul Biber Oil

 

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We love pancar (beetroot) and great big bunches of it can be found in our pazar (farmers markets) in İstanbul. The modern eateries and cafés of the city also serve it in salads, usually cooked and then dressed in oil and vinegar, but sometimes grated and mixed with yoghurt too. Inspired by this, I combined cooked beetroot with briny green olives and crunchy, toasted hazelnuts, ingredients that bring layers of flavour and texture to this easy meze. The nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses) in the dressing adds a natural sweet-and-sourness that goes well with the beetroot, complementing both the cooling yoghurt and the heat of the pul biber oil. You can replace the hazelnuts with your choice of nuts, if you wish.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: Vegetarian Meze

Cuisine: Turkish Cuisine

Serves: 6

Ingredients

• 650 g (1 lb 7 oz) beetroot (beets) - raw or pre-cooked-
• 4 spring onions (scallions), trimmed and finely chopped 85 g (3 oz) stoned (pitted) green olives, halved
• 55 g (2 oz) shelled hazelnuts, coarsely chopped
• small handful parsley, finely chopped
• For the garlic yoghurt:
• 1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
• 170 g (6 oz) full fat Turkish or Greek yoghurt (use a plant-based version, if preferred)
• For the dressing:
• 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 30 ml (1 fl oz) nar ekşisi (pomegranate molasses)
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• For the pul biber oil:
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• ½ teaspoon pul biber (Aleppo pepper)
• salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. Take the yoghurt out of the refrigerator about 45 minutes before serving to bring to room temperature. Stir in the garlic, season with salt and set aside.
2. If you prefer to cook your beetroot, wash, trim and pat dry. Wrap each beetroot in foil (first cutting small beetroot in half lengthways and large ones into quarters), place on a baking tray (pan) and bake in an oven preheated to 200˚C fan/220˚C (425˚F) for about an hour. Allow to cool before carefully peeling the skin and cutting into 5 mm (1/4 in) thick slices.
3. If using pre-cooked beetroot, drain the excess juice from the package, halve any large beetroot, then cut into 5 mm (1/4 in) thick slices.
4. Place the beetroot in a bowl, add the spring onions and olives and combine well.
5. Toast the hazelnuts in a small, dry pan set over a medium heat for 2½ –3 minutes, until they start to turn golden, stirring often. Remove from the heat and set aside.
6. Pour the extra virgin olive oil, pomegranate molasses and lemon juice into a small bowl, season with salt and pepper and give everything a good mix with a small spoon.
7. Pour the olive oil into a small pan, stir in the pul biber (Aleppo pepper) and allow to infuse over a low heat for about 45 seconds.
8. Stir most of the toasted hazelnuts into the beetroot mixture, reserving some for garnish. Pour over the dressing, combine well, then spoon onto a wide serving dish and top with dollops of the yoghurt, swirling it to reveal the lovely shades of pink and red. Sprinkle with the reserved hazelnuts and the parsley, and drizzle over the pul biber oil.

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Yağlama is a delicious and important specialty from Kayseri, central Anatolia. This lovely dish consists of layering the soft flat breads, with a juicy meat sauce between each layer.  Once stacked on top of another, it is quartered and served with garlic yoghurt. It makes an impressive and delicious meal share with friends and family.

I love making my own soft flatbreads for yağlama (see my recipe here if you like to make your own flat breads) when I can, but when pressed with time, I make this quick, cheat’s version, using tortilla wraps. Some folks also use thin, round lavash breads at home. It makes a delicious, comforting meal to share, fast. Yağlama requires a nice and juicy sauce, to soften the flatbreads, and the garlic yoghurt is a must to serve; one of our favourite family meals.

Many one pot wonders, easy Lahmacun using tortilla wraps (along with homemade dough), as well as over 50 vegetarian recipes are included in my new cookbook ISTANBUL, Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City; dishes you can prepare ahead and freeze too (please note that yağlama is not included in this book). You can get a copy here worldwide.

I hope you enjoy this delicious and made easy yağlama feast,

Afiyet olsun,

Ozlem x

Yağlama; Layered flatbreads with meat sauce and garlic yoghurt

 

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Yağlama is a delicious and important specialty from Kayseri, central Anatolia. This lovely dish consists of layering the soft flat breads, with a juicy meat sauce between each layer. Once stacked on top of another, it is quartered and served with garlic yoghurt. It makes an impressive and delicious meal share with friends and family. I love making my own soft flatbreads for yağlama (see my recipe here if you like to make your own flat breads) when I can, but when pressed with time, I make this quick, cheat’s version, using tortilla wraps. Some folks also use thin, round lavash breads at home. It makes a delicious, comforting meal to share, fast. Yağlama requires a nice and juicy sauce, to soften the flatbreads, and the garlic yoghurt is a must to serve; one of our favourite family meals. I hope you enjoy this delicious and made easy yağlama feast.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: Easy, comfort food, layered flatbreads with meat sauce, regional recipes

Cuisine: Turkish cuisine

Serves: 4-5

Ingredients

• 8 flour tortilla wraps (24cm in diameter)
• 750g/1lb 10 oz minced (ground) lamb or beef (15 % fat)
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tbsp butter
• 2 tbsp double concentrated tomato paste
• 1 tbsp Turkish pepper paste (optional, replace with tomato paste if you wish)
• ½ tsp pul biber
• 400g/14 oz a can of finely chopped tomatoes
• 85 g sivri biber or padron peppers, deseeded and finely chopped
• 425ml/15fl oz water
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Small bunch of parsley, finely chopped (reserve 1 tbsp for decoration)
• For the garlic yoghurt:
• 3 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
• 400g yoghurt (full fat if you can)

Instructions

1. Combine the garlic with yoghurt, season to taste, set aside to bring to room temperature.
2. Place the minced meat on a wide pan, and saute for 8 minutes over medium to high heat, stirring and breaking into small parts, until browned. Pour the olive oil and stir in the butter to the pan and add the onions, saute for a further 7 minutes; the onions will soften.
3. Add the peppers and saute for another 3 minutes. Stir in the tomato and pepper paste, give everything a good mix. Add the chopped tomatoes, combine well. Pour the water, season with salt, pepper, pul biber, combine and bring to boil. Simmer for 10 minutes over low to medium heat. Add parsley, mix and keep the heat on lowest setting.
4. Fold a tortilla wrap in half and fold again, then dip the edges into the juicy meat sauce. Place this tortilla wrap flat on a large serving plate or a dish, ideally with 5cm height, so the sauce dribbling at the sides can stay in. Generously spread about 4 tbsps of the meat sauce over, leaving about 1cm around the edges filling free. Working fast, continue this way, wetting the edges of each tortilla and spreading the meat mixture over and layering on top of each other. Spread the remaining sauce over the final tortilla and scatter reserved parsley over. Turn the heat off the sauce.
5. Cut the yağlama stack in the quarters and serve immediately, with garlic yoghurt. We place a ½ tbsp of garlic yoghurt over each yağlama wedge, then roll and enjoy – you will need paper napkins! Afiyet olsun.

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I love the simplicity and comforting taste of İzmir köfte. Traditionally, the köftes, meatballs and thin wedges of potatoes are first lightly fried, then cooked with tomatoes, sivri biber (our green pointy peppers) in a rich tomato sauce. The result is a comforting, all in one pot deliciousness; the meatballs melt in the mouth and potatoes soak up the delicious juices of the casserole. I tend to make a generous portion, as it freezes well and leftovers are great next day.

İzmir köfte is a proper esnaf lokantası fare. At these humble, no-frills style neighborhood restaurants that I am very fond of, trays of freshly cooked home style casseroles like İzmir köfte is offered to customers. You pick up your tray, point the casserole, dolma, pilaf you want to eat and they plate them up for you. I hope you enjoy my İzmir köfte recipe. I like to partially bake the köftes and potatoes, rather than frying; the result is equally delicious, easier and lighter. A family favourite.

Another version of these succulent köfte, casseroles, zingy piyaz salads, meze, bakes and so much more are included at my new cookery book, ISTANBUL, Delicious recipes from the heart of the City. You can get a copy here worldwide.

Afiyet Olsun,

Ozlem

İzmir Köfte; Turkish meatballs with potatoes, tomatoes, peppers

 

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I love the simplicity and comforting taste of İzmir köfte. Traditionally, the köftes, meatballs and thin wedges of potatoes are first lightly fried, then cooked with tomatoes, sivri biber (our green pointy peppers) in a rich tomato sauce. The result is a comforting, all in one pot deliciousness; the meatballs melt in the mouth and potatoes soak up the delicious juices of the casserole. I tend to make a generous portion, as it freezes well and leftovers are great next day.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: One pot Izmir kofte with peppers, potato, tomatoes

Cuisine: Turkish cuisine

Serves: 8-10

Ingredients

• 1kg medium potatoes, sliced into 1 ½ cm thick wedges
• 200g sivri biber, cut into 3 pieces or padron peppers, sliced lengthways
• 3 medium to large tomatoes, sliced in 2 cm thick wedges
• 2 tablespoons olive oil (for coating potato wedges)
• For the köfte:
• 1 large onion, grated
• 5 tablespoons breadcrumbs (use gluten-free if preferred)
• 2 medium eggs, beaten
• 25g flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1kg minced (ground) beef (12 % fat) or a combination of minced lamb and beef
• For the sauce:
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons double concentrated tomato paste
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 teaspoons pul biber
• 700 g plum tomatoes in can, pureed (use fresh tomatoes in season)
• 600ml water
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

1. First prepare the köfte mixture. Combine the köfte ingredients except the meat in a large bowl, season (2 teaspoon of salt is recommended) and knead well. Stir in the meat and combine for 3-4 minutes thoroughly, until blended well. Cover and keep in the fridge until using.
2. Preheat oven to fan 200C/220C/425F. Place the sliced potato wedges in a large oven tray and drizzle 2 tablespoons olive oil over them, season with salt and black pepper. Go hands on and coat the oil and seasoning on potatoes. Slice the sivri biber (or padron peppers) and tomatoes and place in a large plate for later.
3. Have a small bowl of room temperature water with a drizzle of olive oil nearby. Take the köfte mixture out of the fridge. Wet your fingers in the bowl and take a small tangerine size köfte in your hand and roll to a roughly 9cm long sausage-like köfte, with slightly pointy edges, place in a large plate. Shape the rest of the köfte this way, place side by side. Then, place the köfte rolls and potato wedges side by side, alternating, in one layer, on a large oven tray, about 4 cm high. Bake for 30 minutes; they will start to crisp up round the edges. Take the tray out and bring the oven temperature to fan 180C/200C/400F.
4. While the köfte and potatoes are baking, make the sauce. Melt the butter in a medium sized pan and pour the olive oil. Stir in the tomato paste and combine over medium heat for a couple of minutes. Then pour in the pureed tomatoes, oregano, pul biber and combine. Pour the water, season to taste and bring to a boil and simmer for 2-3 minutes then turn the heat off.
5. Insert the peppers and tomatoes in between the potatoes and köfte in the tray. Gently pour the sauce over, shake the tray gently so that the sauce can penetrate. Bake in the oven for another 35-40 minutes.
6. Serve hot, with either pilaf or chunks of bread at the side. Afiyet Olsun.

3.5.3251

]]> https://ozlemsturkishtable.com/2026/03/izmir-kofte-turkish-meatballs-with-potatoes-tomatoes-peppers/feed/ 0 https://ozlemsturkishtable.com/2026/02/some-of-my-favourite-things-do-to-in-istanbul/ https://ozlemsturkishtable.com/2026/02/some-of-my-favourite-things-do-to-in-istanbul/#respond Tue, 24 Feb 2026 16:09:27 +0000 https://ozlemsturkishtable.com/?p=28334

I am often asked to recommend places to visit in İstanbul. It is a fascinating city with so much to see and enjoy, not least the captivating historical sites of Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace and the Basilica Cistern (one of my personal favourites). If you enjoy modern art, İstanbul Modern is well worth a visit. Whatever you decide to do, may I suggest you don’t overcrowd your days and take some time to relax – perhaps with a cup of Turkish coffee – so you can watch  İstanbul unfold in front of you. I have recently returned from İstanbul, it was special to visit this magical city with my son, and seeing family. There were much excitement too, as I took a sample copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, Delicious recipes from the heart of the city, to show family. Here are some of my favourite things to experience in the Queen of the cities.

Some of my favourite eateries For the ultimate ocakbaşı-style kebab and meze experience, look no further than Zübeyir Ocakbaşı. For delicious regional specialties, I head to Sinem Özler’s Seraf Vadi and Musa Dağdeviren’s Çiya Sofrası. For traditional Turkish specialties, Karaköy Lokantası and Borsa Restaurants are amongst my favourites places to eat in İstanbul. Sahrap Soysal’s Sahrap’ın Ev Yemekleri restaurant in the international departures section of İstanbul Airport also serves delicious food with traditional Turkish flavours. The original Sultanahmet koftecisi (Selim Usta) in Sultanahmet is wonderful too, with succulent kofte and bean piyaz salad.

I love our Turkish breakfast, Kahvalti – every neighbourhood offers our favourite meal. Namli in Karakoy, Sade Kahve in Rumeli Hisari, amongst my favourite spots. You would be happy to know that Menemen and Sigara boregi are included at my new cookbook ISTANBUL too.

Eat like a local at an esnaf lokantası In the past, these humble yet iconic institutions provided the working men of İstanbul with affordable, nourishing, home-style meals, though today they are enjoyed by everyone. Great value, they are some of my favourite eateries. I love the delightful Makbule Hanım Lokantası in Mahmutbey. Balkan Lokantası in Besiktaş and Lades in Beyoğlu were regular hangouts of my dear father, Orhan – I’m grateful to have enjoyed countless Süzme Mercimek Çorbası at these places with him.

Spices, nuts, Turkish Delight Mısır Çarşısı, İstanbul’s historic, vibrant Spice Market, is a must-see, Malatya Pazari there offers fresh nuts, Turkish delights and spices. Erdem Bey Kuruyemiş in Beşiktaş, and Koz İstanbul Kuruyemiş in Kadıköy, are wonderful choices too for nuts and dried fruit. Kuru Kahveci Mehmet Efendi Turkish coffee shop at the entrance of Spice Market is lovely to visit and get Turkish coffee.

Bosphorus boat tour The Bosphorus is the lifeline of the city, connecting the European and Asian sides of İstanbul. I highly recommend taking either a scenic boat trip along the strait or using the vapur (local ferries) to cruise between the two sides. You can also hop on and off from vapur to enjoy delicacies in each district, for instance the famous, creamy yoghurt in Kanlıca.

Enjoy sokak yemekleri (street food) There is a vibrant street food scene in İstanbul offering huge variety, so indulge yourself by sampling Simit, Açma, Gözleme , Balık Ekmek, Lokma and Köz Mısır, as well as the freshest of juices, pickles and more, just as the locals do; all these recipes are included at my cookery book ISTANBUL too.

Discover multicultural İstanbul Known for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, the Kurtuluş district (formerly known as Tatavla) was historically a prominent Greek Orthodox and Armenian neighbourhood, has a strong Orthodox Greek and Armenian patisserie culture, and is also home to a few kosher bakeries. Here you can enjoy Paskalya Çöreği at Üstün Palmie Pastanesi, Borekitas at Kurtuluş Pastanesi and Armenian specialties such as Topik  and midye dolma at Marinee and Mezme restaurants. For Sephardic Jewish specialties such as borekitas, head to Büyükada Pastanesi in Big Island. And if you have a spare day, I recommend visiting the beautiful, multicultural Princes’ Islands, which are a very pleasant hour’s ferry trip away from İstanbul.

Use public transport İstanbul has an efficient public transport system – Metro (subway), buses, trams and ferries – which I use all the time. It offers good value and means you avoid the traffic. The city is best discovered, though, by walking – go off the beaten track to check out local neighbourhoods.

Visit the city’s pazar (farmers’ markets)  Almost every neighbourhood has one, showcasing a huge variety of seasonal produce, including dried fruits, olives and nuts, as well as textiles and so much more. The pazar are the heartbeat of their neighbourhoods and a great way to observe and be a part of local life. Whenever I go to one, I always make time to have a bite of gözleme, accompanied by a glass of çay (Turkish tea), just as I used to do with my dear father, Orhan. 4th Levent Salı pazarı, Fatih Çarsamba pazarı, Besiktaş pazarı and Kadiköy Salı pazarı are among my favourites.

Discover modern İstanbul It is worth taking the Metro (subway) to discover the modern side of İstanbul and observe local life, if you can. I lived in 4th Levent in the modern, European side of the city for more than 15 years, which is a lovely, residential neighbourhood with a gorgeous Tuesday farmers’ market, Salı pazarı. After work, I loved driving to the Arnavutköy and Bebek districts to walk along the Bosphorus with my mother, Gülçin. We would then enjoy a glass of çay (Turkish tea) at Bebek Kahve whilst we watched the world go by. Sade Kahve in Rumehisarı, overlooking the Rumeli Fortress and the Bosphorus, also holds happy memories of having leisurely Turkish breakfasts there with my family.

İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets If you enjoy experiencing local life and eateries off the beaten track, I highly recommend taking an İstanbul food tour with Culinary Backstreets. They offer a unique, in-depth exploration of the city’s culinary scene, showcasing the city’s diverse culinary culture.

Take a hands-on Turkish cookery class It really is special to take a hands-on Turkish cookery class when in İstanbul, learning how to enjoy the abundant seasonal produce and a variety of spices. I love teaching at Cookistan (cookistan.com). They also run their own wonderful cookery classes in their beautiful, friendly studio.

I lived in Istanbul over 15 years and our time with family always meant the most. Revisiting family, places with memories. I hope you make your own special memory in this magical city. For delicious recipes from Istanbul, places to visit, tips , you can order a copy of my cookery book ISTANBUL, here.

This soğan dolması is one of the easiest and tastiest dolmas you can make. I used a mixture of red and yellow medium to large onions, they look so pretty and taste delicious, though you can use either. Baking brings extra natural sweetness to the onions and a touch of tangy pomegranate molasses in the filling adds a delicious tang. I used ground/minced lamb in the filling – you can use other meat, just make sure it has about 15-20 % fat for flavour. You can also use a vegetarian filling; I love loads of sauteed onions, pine nuts, currants, herbs in the filling, along with rice or cooked green lentils as a vegetarian filling.

Soğan dolması really is a delicious, good value feast to share with family and friends. You can prepare ahead; flavours develop and it tastes even nicer the next day – it is gluten-free too. Make sure to have creamy garlicy yoghurt aside- an indispensable part of dolma experience for us.

We are a nation of dolma lovers and I love the ritual of dolma making at home, where generations get together and make dolma; I was lucky enough to make many dolmas with my parents and grandparents. You will find one of my favourites, Biber Dolması, Stuffed peppers with aromatic rice and ground/minced meat, in my new cookery book İSTANBUL, Delicious Recipes from the Heart of the City – you can order a copy HERE worldwide.

Afiyet olsun,

Ozlem x

5.0 from 2 reviews

Soğan Dolması – Stuffed onions with aromatic rice and meat

 

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This soğan dolması is one of the easiest and tastiest dolmas you can make. I used a mixture of red and yellow medium to large onions, they look so pretty and taste delicious, though you can use either. Baking brings extra natural sweetness to the onions and a touch of tangy pomegranate molasses in the filling adds a delicious tang. I used ground/minced lamb in the filling – you can use other meat, just make sure it has about 15-20 % fat for flavour. You can also use a vegetarian filling; I love loads of sauteed onions, pine nuts, currants, herbs in the filling, along with rice or cooked green lentils as a vegetarian filling. Soğan dolması really is a delicious, good value feast to share with family and friends. You can prepare ahead; flavours develop and it tastes even nicer the next day - it is gluten-free too. Make sure to have creamy garlicy yoghurt aside- an indispensable part of dolma experience for us.

Author: Ozlem Warren

Recipe type: One pot dolma

Cuisine: Turkish cuisine

Serves: 6-8

Ingredients

• 6 medium to large yellow and red onions
• For the filling:
• 200g/7oz minced/ground lamb – or beef, 20% fat
• 225g/8oz long or short grain rice, rinsed
• Small, core parts of the cooked onions, finely chopped
• Small bunch of parsley, finely chopped (save 1 tsp for serving)
• 2tsp dried mint
• 2tbsp pomegranate molasses
• 3tbsp double concentrated tomato paste
• 2tbsp Turkish red pepper paste
• 85ml/3fl oz water
• 2tbsp olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• For the sauce:
• 55g/2oz butter, melted
• 2tbsp olive oil
• 2 tbsp double concentrated tomato paste
• 450ml/16fl oz water
• For the garlic yoghurt:
• 2-3 garlic cloves crushed with salt and finely chopped
• 400g/14 oz plain yoghurt

Instructions

1. Trim both ends of the onions, peel the skin and layer beneath, as it can be tough. Using a knife, make a vertical incision on each onion, until you reach the half point, the core of each onion (this helps to separate the layers, after boiling). Gently place the onions on a large pan of boiling water, partially cover and simmer for 10 minutes; onion layers will soften but not be mushy. Drain the water and place the softened onions on a large tray to cool.
2. Once cool, gently separate the onion layers, discarding the thin membranes on onion layers; take care not to tear the onion layers.
3. Save the smaller core parts of the onions; finely dice them to add to a large bowl, for the filling. Stir in the remaining filling ingredients except the meat. Season (2 tsp salt recommended) and knead with your hands to combine well. Stir in the meat and combine again. Filling needs to be a little loose, hence the addition of water is important.
4. Preheat oven to fan 180C/200C/400F. Have a 30cm diameter round or square baking dish, 6 cm deep.
5. To stuff the onion, take a layer and place about 1 ½ tbsp of the filling on the inner side and roll to seal (it will look like a fat shallot shape. Place on the baking dish. Keep on stuffing and layering each soğan dolması next to one another, quite snug, in one layer.
6. Combine the sauce ingredients, season with salt and pepper and gently pour over the stuffed onions. Cover the dish and bake for 45 minutes. Then uncover and bake for further 15 minutes; most of the sauce would be absorbed and the dolmas have a lovely golden colour with dark brown patches. Cover and let the dolma to rest for 10 minutes.
7. In the meantime, combine the garlic with yoghurt, season to taste.
8. Serve soğan dolması with a little sauce over and sprinkle of parsley and garlic yoghurt aside.

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