Palmetto Kayak Fishing

DIY No Drill Kayak Anchor Trolley Connection Points

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 02:24:00 +0000

Over the past couple of months I have received a few questions on how I set up the front and rear connection points for the anchor trolley on the 2012 Ride 135. Youtube and forums like KayakBassFishing.com are of excellent resources for learning about a basic anchor trolley setup. Instead of going through the whole process, consider this the Cliffs Notes version that focuses on the connection points - especially the rear one.

Since I don't use a rudder, I took advantage of the factory installed hardware to set up a functional trolley without having to drill additional holes into the kayak. Many of the Wilderness Systems kayaks have these bolts preinstalled from the factory. The key to this entire build is the use of 550 paracord because it flattens out making it ideal for the rear connection point.

These pictures were taken some time ago and I no longer use the zinc plated pulleys. I highly recommend Harken's H224 micro blocks. They can be purchased online at Austin Kayak HERE or locally at West Marine. They are well worth the investment and won't corrode.

Knot a loop of paracord and attach it directly to the pulley or use a snap as pictured. I like using the brass snaps so I can remove the rear portion of the trolley. This comes in handy in shallow spots where I can disconnect the rear of the trolley and use it as tow rope. This allows me to drag my kayak behind me as I move upstream and alleviates the need for separate tow line.

The install is simple. Use a phillips head screwdriver to back out one of the factory bolts found at various points on the rear of the kayak. Place the paracord loop around the bolt and retighten. The paracord will flatten considerably.

The woven portion on top of the paracord loop is just for looks. It is very easy to make a "King Cobra" weave with with a little practice.

Check out the DIY anchor system instructions by clicking on the picture below.

Kayak Fishing Monopod Conversion for GoPro and other Cameras - DIY kayak camera mount

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Mon, 13 Feb 2012 20:34:00 +0000

After several requests, I decided to put the kayak camera monopod conversion on the blog. It is still available for free download in PDF form on the "Downloads" section of the Palmetto Kayak Fishing website. Here is the direct link if you prefer to download the instructions. - Paul

I’ve built quite a few different camera mounting poles over the years and thought I would share a very simple
design that doesn’t cost much to make. It will fit any 1½” commercial or PVC rod holder. An aluminum
Targus telescoping monopod is the main component of the build; specifically, the TG-MP6710 model that can be found at Walmart ($15) or Radio Shack ($12.99). Target sells one as well – the TG-MP7010 ($13.79) – that is silver in color and almost identical except for a narrower foam grip.

1. Targus TG-MP6710 Monopod ($12.99-$15.00)

2. Hacksaw (or Dremel Tool)

3. Phillips Head Screwdriver

4. 9/32” Drill Bit

5. 1” Rubber Chair Tip (Ace Hardware, $0.83)

6. PKF decal available on the website (j/k-optional)

The beauty of this whole build is that you don’t need to purchase a bunch of different parts. Assuming you
have all the basic tools pictured, all that is needed is the monopod and the 1” rubber chair end cap.

STEP 1: Remove the lanyard and set aside. Slide the foam grip to uncover the 3 screws that hold the camera mounting base in place. Unscrew each of these 3 screws to remove the camera base from the pole.

STEP 2: On the opposite end of the pole, unscrew the rubber foot until it will go no further. Using a hacksaw

or Dremel tool, cut the threaded post as pictured leaving approximately 3/8” exposed. If you are using a
Dremel tool, it is easier to cut away the rubber foot and then cut the post. Discard the rubber foot as it is not
needed.

STEP 3: Flip the camera mounting head over and locate the center hole. Use a 9/32” drill bit, and bore the

existing hole out by hand approximately 1/8” deep. This will allow you to easily thread the mounting base onto the post you just cut at the opposite end of the monopod.

The material feels like graphite and the camera head will self-thread very securely to the post using this method. For extra security, add marine epoxy to the threads although this step is not necessarily needed.

STEP 4: Slide the 1” rubber chair tip cap onto the opposite end of the post.

Additional notes: I use this setup with a GoPro HD camera that has its own adjustable mount, eliminating the need for any sort of directional adjustment. If you are using another style of camera and/or need to add more adjustment capabilities, simply purchase a “mini tripod ball head”. This component is designed screw into the ¼“ bolt on the monopod and will allow you to adjust the angle of any camera. They cost around $10.

Get creative with it and add a screw in mount for your kayak light...one pole, multiple functions!

Enjoy! - Paul

Build a strong DIY kayak cart instructions + VIDEO

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 21:48:00 +0000

After forever and a day, the metal cart writeup is finished. My goal was to design a very rugged, bolt together cart that would work well with the 2012 Ride 135's pontoon style hull. This design carries my fully loaded kayak (100+ lbs) with ease. The previous Palmetto Kayak Fishing PVC cart works great, but I wanted to design and build a cart that better mimicked some of the commercially available options. The new model had to be super strong, lightweight, easy to disassemble/reassemble and somewhat aesthetically pleasing.

Let me start by saying this project is a little on the expensive side as compared to some of the other PKF builds due to the initial cost of a few items. For example, the SuperStrut metal framing channel costs around $15 for a 10' section, but the build only requires 15.5 inches of material. Same goes for the thick $10 professional dense poly cutting board from Sam's Club. One board is large enough to make 3 pairs of the bunks that the kayak rides on. The build also requires drilling out thick metal and two flat washers to accommodate the 3/4" axle. Many machine shops will drill the required holes on the cheap if you don't have a step bit available.

With all this being said, take one look at similar commercially available offerings that cost north of $150 and in the grand scheme of things, this cart isn't so bad on the wallet. Most importantly, it fits my Ride 135 like a glove and can handle many different types of terrain with a heavy payload. The cart weighs in right at 11 pounds - that is just one pound heavier than the popular C-tug cart.

For me, it's not always about the destination, but more about the journey getting there. I find these DIY projects to be very fulfilling and enjoy sharing the process. Round up a friend or 3 that are interested pursuing this project and the per-cart costs go down significantly. Lastly, for the steel axle, call a metal or scrap shop that will sell you a small section of the 3/4in. x 1/16in. in plain steel tube and pay less than HD's price of $10. If you can find a stainless steel tube in the same size, even better.

Parts List: (click red text for links and pictures)

10' SuperStrut metal framing channel - (only 15.5" is needed per cart), Home Depot - $15.57

3/4in. x 1/16in. in plain steel tube - cut to 25.5", holes drilled in each end to accept the linch pins, Home Depot - $9.32

Bakers & Chefs Commercial Cutting Board 1/2" thick, 15" x 20" - cut two 3" x 15" sections per cart (1 board is enough to build 3 carts) Sam's Club $11

2 - 10" Low Speed Tires - Northern Tool - $9.99 each.

NOTE: I chose these over the cheaper Harbor Freight wheels b/c of the reduction of weight and simplicity of design. They look very similar - if not the same - to the wheels that come on Hobie's Universal Kayak Cart or the pneumatic C-Tug wheels.

2 - Superstrut 2-Hole 90-Degree Angle Brackets - $1.34 each

1 package of Crown Bolt Inc. 1/2" Create-A-Bolt - Home Depot - $3

2 - Crown Bolt Zinc Plated 1/2 in.-13 x 1-3/4 in. Rod Coupling Nut (the only link is for a 25 pack, HD sells them in single bags, HD part no. 030699191567, at $1.31 each) - Home Depot - $1.31

2 - Crown Bolt 3/16 in. x 1-1/2 in. Zinc Plated Linch Pins - Home Depot, $1.73 each

2 - Crown Bolt Zinc Plated 1/2 in. - 13 x 1-1/2 in. (the only link is for a 50 pack, HD sells them individually)- Home Depot, >$1 for two

2 - Crown Bolt Zinc Plated 5/8 in. Flat Washers & 2 additional 1/2" Flat Washers (the only link is for a 65 pack, HD sells them individually) - Bore out the center hole of the 5/8" washer to 3/4" to fit over axle - this size is modified b/c the outside diameter fits the wheel profile perfectly, Home Depot, >$1 for two. The additional 1/2" washers do not need to be modified.

1 Crown Bolt 1/2 in. x 12 in. Zinc Threaded Rod - Cut into two 6" sections, Home Depot, $1.57

2 - 1/2" stop nuts

6 - 1/2" PVC couplings

2 - 3" sections of 1/2" PVC

Outdoor Carpet scraps and padding of choice to cover the cutting board bunks

11" zip ties

Loctite thread locker

Lashing strap to hold the cart to the kayak

OPTIONAL PARTS:

Foam tubing to cover the vertical PVC arms.

U bolt and 1/2" PVC parts to fabricate a tube to accommodate a push pole of some sort to get the cart in place under the kayak (see video). I use a stake out pole for this, but just about any rigid tube will do.

Automotive 15 oz. Truck Bed Coating - Home Depot, $8

Detailed VIDEO

The Build:

The video pretty much explains the process but here are some tips. I cut the SuperStrut to 15.5" for my application, leaving 8 of the oval cutouts. If the build is for a different model kayak, adjust the length of the SuperStut, axle and kayak bunk placement for a custom fit. Make sure to measure and cut the axle at the end of the entire processes to ensure proper fitment.

Enjoy! - Paul

Another DIY Kayak Cart - Work in Progress

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Sat, 28 Jan 2012 17:02:00 +0000

Since the original PKF DIY kayak cart instructions went over so well, I decided to up the ante and construct an improved cart with a rigid metal frame. The 2012 Ride 135 has a unique pontoon-style hull which makes it difficult to find a commercially available cart that fits it well.

To start, the cart needed to be extremely rugged. While I have not had any failures with the PVC cart linked above, I wanted to focus on increasing rigidity and strength. Low weight and aesthetics were also high on the list. The parts used in the build also needed to be available locally to make it easier for other folks to replicate the design. Lastly, the cart had to be easy to assemble and break down. While I am still working on a few more tweaks, this build is almost finished.

Here is a preview -full instructions should be up this week. Have a great weekend!

DIY Scotty backing plates and install video

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Mon, 19 Dec 2011 03:45:00 +0000

The video explains the whole process, but in classic PKF style, I supplied the part numbers and the retailers that sell the components used in this build. I built four of these round plates and the unit cost per disk comes out to be around a $1.30 each. With that being said, I did order my nuts and bolts in bulk so the breakdown was .18 cents per SS flange nut and .21 cents per SS pan head bolt after shipping. You can probably find these SS flange nuts at a more specialized hardware store to avoid ordering in bulk.

I was not able to find the 10-24 size of stainless steel flange nuts locally at any of the "big box" hardware stores so I ordered them through McMaster-Carr. They sell all kinds of bolts, screws, nuts, spring steel - you name it, they probably have it. Every time I have ordered anything from them, my package arrives on my doorstep the next day.

If you order online, shipping costs will not be calculated before you checkout. Just call them before ordering and they can give you a general idea of what will be charged to your credit card for shipping. My shipping costs have always been around $5 which is downright amazing considering the low retail prices and turnaround speed.

And just in case you were curious, I recently fabricated and installed rectangular backing plates for Scotty 244 flush mounts on a different kayak using the same method with equal success.

Fabricated Disk Parts:

8.5" x 11' Poly Cutting Board - $2.16, Walmart (Product page LINK)

Part Number 93776A391 Stainless Steel Serrated-Flange Hex Locknut, 10-24 thread size, 3/8" Width, 7/32 overall height, PACK OF 50 pieces - $6.55, McMaster-Carr (Product page LINK)

Other Parts:

Part Number 91772A249 Stainless Steel Pan Head Phillips Machine Screw, 10-24 Thread, 1-1/4" Length, PACK OF 50 pieces - $7.92, McMaster-Carr (Product page LINK)

Scotty 344 Round Flush Deck Mount Brackets - $9.99, Austin Kayak (Product page LINK)

Plumbers Goop - $4.57, Home Depot (Product page LINK)

Side note: The install procedure will probably also work with non-flush Scotty mounts where no large center hole will be drilled into the kayak. In this case, only the four mounting holes for the bolts will be drilled. To bypass this issue, attach a length of spring steel, bailing wire or something similar to both of the tag ends of the line with tape. Anything that has some weight to it (preferably magnetic) that can be taped to the line and will still pass through the mounting holes should work fine. Each end should look similar to a threaded needle, only the line is taped into place instead of passing through an eye hole. In the same manner as displayed in the video, pass the spring steel "needle" through the drilled bolt holes in the kayak deck. Only this time, just let the spring steel fall into the hull of the kayak. Attach a strong magnet to the end of a length of PVC and slide it through an open hatch toward the lines. The magnet will "grab" the spring steel and the lines can be fed through the kayak. Alternatively, use a piece of PVC with a hook attached to it to grab the ends of the string. The rest of the install process is the same.

Sony Vegas Movie Studio HD 11

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Sun, 18 Dec 2011 20:07:00 +0000

After reading this blog post over at SaltyShores.com, I decided it was time to throw down some cash and purchase a better video editing program. Until now, all of my videos have been pieced together using Windows Movie Maker (yikes!) or a comparable program that came free with my Kodak PlaySport. While they both "worked", countless crashes and limited control of...well...everything, made these programs about as functional as using a hammer to chop down a tree.

When I discovered that Sam Root (unlike me, he is a pro) at SaltyShores.com was using Sony Vegas Movie Studio HD 11, I decided to go ahead and order the software. The $65 price tag makes Movie Studio HD very accessible to an amateur like me in a market riddled with video editing software north of $500.

The video below is the first project that I have pieced together using Movie Studio HD. The learning curve is surprisingly fast with this software and it is actually enjoyable to use. Most of the processes are intuitive and I have yet to run into any crashes or other hurdles that I encountered with the previous programs. While I have only scratched the surface with what Vegas Movie Studio HD can do, I highly recommend it to other kayak anglers that like to mess around with video. Now I just need to find some bigger fish.

Quick release DIY kayak anchor system + bottle opener

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Tue, 22 Nov 2011 01:05:00 +0000

Whether you prefer the store bought variation or some other form of anchor, having the ability to quickly disconnect from it is crucial when kayak fishing. Although not recommended, I often anchor in river current to get close to the fish I am targeting. Using this simple setup in conjunction with an anchor trolley, I can deploy as well as release my anchor in seconds.

The blaze orange dog training dummy from Remington is a cost effective, durable float that makes anchor retrieval a cinch. Nite Ize’s stainless steel “S-Biner AHHH…” carabineer serves as a sturdy anchor line holder and doubles as a bottle opener back at camp. If experience has taught me anything, it is that you can never have enough bottle openers.

Key Components:

Remington 2” x 11” Vinyl Dummies - $4.99 each or a 3pk for $12.99 Academy Sports

Nite Ize “Figure 9 Carabiner” small size - $3.99 Sportsman’s Warehouse

Nite Ize “S-Biner AHHH…” in stainless steel - $3.99 Sportsman’s Warehouse

Velcro Strip – I recommend and use Velcro’s “One Wrap” 7/8”X 23” straps as they work well even when soaked. A 3 Pack is around $4 at HardwareandTools.com and they are also available at select hardware stores and Walmart.

10’-14' section of cord, preferably a different color than the anchor line. Home Depot and Lowe’s sell 75’ length packs of 5/32” diameter cord for less than $3.

Length of anchor line and anchor of your choice.

Start off by securing the “S-Biner AHHH…” to the vinyl dummy as pictured.

Take the 10’ - 14' length of cord and make a small loop in one end that will fit over the “S-Biner AHHH…” Attach and position the cord against the dummy as pictured and secure it with one of the Velcro straps at the top. This setup allows the pressure exerted from the anchor line to pass around the vinyl dummy instead of through it.

Tie the end of the anchor line to the 10’ length of cord as pictured and tuck the knot under the Velcro.

Wind the anchor line around the dummy to take up the slack. Use one of the extra strips of Velcro to keep the wrapped anchor line secure on the dummy.

Lastly, clip the “Figure 9 Carabiner” to the side handle of the kayak or similar location that is out of the way yet easy to reach. On the setup on my 2012 Ride 135, I use this carabineer to control the anchor trolley line and keep it from riding up. It can be easily removed in seconds for full front-to-back operation of the anchor trolley if desired. 95% of the time I have the anchor trolley in the forward position anyway.

To use this setup, slide the blue cord through the ring of the anchor trolley.

Leave a foot or so of excess line free on the tag end and secure it to the “Figure 9 Carabiner” as noted in the manufacturer’s instructions. This allows the anchor trolley to be placed in the desired position before the anchor is deployed.

Unwind the anchor line from the dummy and drop the anchor over the side. When the desired length of line has been let out, simply wrap the anchor line around the “S-Biner AHHH…” carabineer 4 times - two wraps between each opening as pictured.

It only takes a couple of seconds to accomplish and creates a non-slip, yet easy to remove connection. Toss the dummy into the water and get ready to fish. The location of vinyl dummy in can be adjusted by simply taking up or letting the slack out of the “Figure 9 Carabiner” line.

To come off the anchor, simply yank the tag end of the line connected to the “Figure 9 Carabiner”. The line will slide right out of the entire assembly. The blaze orange Remington float will be easy to spot when you return to retrieve your anchor. Tight lines - Paul

Note: If you need a beefier setup, upgrade to Remington's 3" x 12" training dummy that runs $6.99. Switch out the small “Figure 9 Carabiner” for the larger sized one that costs around $6. These substitutions will allow for much larger diameter ropes and a heavy duty setup if needed.

Cold Weather Kayak Fishing Gear on a Budget

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Tue, 08 Nov 2011 12:43:00 +0000

Saluda River trout fishing last winter

It was just two weeks ago that I was kayak fishing on the Congaree River in Columbia, occasionally wading through the shallow sections in the 68 degree water. Dressed in my normal summer fishing attire of shorts and Tevas, I soaked up what would become one of the last warm weather days of the season. While the river was a little on the chilly side, the combination of the water and air temperatures was well above the 120 degree mark where things start to get dicey. It is an easy calculation– simply add the water temperature to the air temperature. If this number dips below 120 degrees, the right combination of clothes becomes critical.

I'll assume every kayak angler reading this uses a PFD. While I recommend you wear it all the time, without fail, keep it on during the winter season. I don't think I need to elaborate on why this is crucial in cold water.

For a base layer, I prefer light polyester, capilene or polypropylene long john-style pants. I stay away from standard long johns that tend to be on the bulky side. I use the Terramar brand of thermal base layer pants that sell for $6.99 at Rugged Warehouse in Columbia. They are constructed of high quality 100% polypropylene and have a nice thin design. Whatever you end up purchasing, be sure to read the label and don't buy blends that contain cotton.

Marmot wool/fleece hat - $9, FTP 80/20 polyester/spandex compression shirt - $5, Terramar 100% poylpro pants - $7

I look for the same materials in the long sleeve shirts I use for my torso base layer. Many folks may already own these style shirts for summertime fishing to block UV rays and stay cool. The purpose of this layer is to wick sweat away from the skin. Again, outfitters like Rugged Warehouse offer these shirts from a variety of different manufacturers at deep discounts. While RW's inventory changes all the time, I can usually find what I need. I picked up a few extra FTP brand long sleeve compression shirts (80% polyester, 20% spandex) this past weekend for just $4.99 each.

Source: Dick's Sporting Goods - $59.99 Caddis Neoprene Waders

Caddis Neoprene Chest Waders are available online from Dicks Sporting Goods and make up the key component of my outerwear. At around $60, the price is right and they come in tall sizes as well. I have been using these same waders for over 2 years now. They are durable and quite warm thanks to the 3.5-mm thick neoprene. Although the product picture can be deceiving, these waders are fully footed, waterproof and sealed. Purchase the most inexpensive pair of wading shoes you can find. After all, you'll be sitting down in the kayak and secure footing on riverbed rocks isn't exactly an issue.

I wear an inexpensive ($20) but warm fleece jacket and keep a spare in a waterproof bag in my hatch. To keep the wind and rain at bay, buy a quality 100% waterproof and breathable unlined jacket shell. Outfitters like Sierra Trading Post (take advantage of the coupon codes that are always available) and even Eddie Bauer will offer Gore-Tex like material at low cost. Watch for seasonal sales especially through Eddie Bauer. I use one of EB's "WeatherEdge" jackets for kayak fishing and paid less than $30 for the waterproof/breathable shell that has held up and performed as well as Gore-Tex.

Eddie Bauer WeatherEdge waterproof/breathable shell - $30, spring clearance sale

Lastly, make sure you have a quality wool or fleece hat. The great thing about both of these materials is that they insulate even if they get wet. I wear a Marmot wool/fleece blend hat that I picked up at a clothing discount store last year for $9. When it comes to keeping hands warm, I have found that waterproof Neoprene gloves work the best for me. They don't absorb water and insulate well. I've been using the same pair of Remington neoprene gloves for over 12 years now and they are still going strong. If you need extra layers, stick to the basics I have pointed out here. I'll sometimes add an Adidas ClimaLite pullover (clearance section, T.J. Maxx $9) into the mix if I need it. A number of lightweight layers that can be peeled off or put back on as conditions change make all the difference in the world when managing comfort.

This guide should serve as a starting point, simply adjust layers according to your specific needs. Just remember, dress and prepare as though you plan on taking a swim and be sure you are skilled enough to get back into your kayak in case things go south. I have practiced deep water kayak reentry in the summer months wearing waders and a base layer just to make sure I could succeed without issue. If you have any doubt in your abilities, wait until it warms up.

Another good idea is to throw a backup set of clothes in a dry bag so that you are prepared for the worst. When I head out on the Chesapeake Bay, things become a little more extreme than the more urban kayak fishing I do in Columbia. In addition to the extra clothes, I toss in a couple of Pop Tarts, a waterproof/windproof jet style butane lighter, a roll of toilet paper and a tube of alcohol-based hand sanitizer into the dry bag. The last three items will get a fire started quickly even in the most adverse conditions.

Deluxe DIY Kayak Bait Well with Light

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Fri, 30 Sep 2011 11:35:00 +0000

Although I don't usually fish with live bait, it is hard to ignore the action that live herring can generate this time of year on Lake Murray when targeting stripers. On a handful of occasions I have used a simple Frabill aerator in combination with a small cooler to get the job done. The whole apparatus fits in the tankwell of my kayak, but this setup is far from ideal. The aerator is an inefficient power hog (remembering to purchase D batteries every trip gets old) and the durability is just not there. This may be satisfactory for one season of fishing with minnows, but I wanted something for the long haul that would do a better job of keeping the herring alive. In addition, an insulated container (i.e. cooler) is a must with the summer heat we have in SC.

Commercially available versions of kayak bait wells gave me sticker shock considering the key components include nothing more than a power source, a low volume bilge pump and a watertight container of some sort. Finish it off with a couple of rod holders and handles and there really isn’t much to it.

If you aren’t into the DIY stuff, then check out Hobie’s Kayak Live Well for around $300. Pick up an inexpensive waterproof Nano Spotter light from PKF’s online store and you can get the same lighting result as this DIY version. I give the designers at Hobie a thumbs up as the ergonomic design is quite nice. If you want to save over $200 though, keep reading.

Let me start by saying that this DIY bait well write up should serve as a general guide and that the principals and components used can be interchanged with a cooler or other parts you may already have on hand . If you decide to purchase the same Igloo cooler that I used in this build, all the measurements and parts listed below will match up with the pictures, minus the added light. I made everything removable so that I could use this cooler for other purposes.

Hardwiring the LED light was the most tedious task of this entire build. I knew it was going to be a pain soldering wires to the leads on the small circuit board that controls the LEDs. I chose to showcase what is possible if you wanted to take this project a little further. At the end of this build, I will teach you how to get the same lighting results without the headache and added cost of hardwiring the waterproof light.

Basic Parts List:

Standard Cooler (for this build, I chose Igloo’s 36 quartMarine Cooler - $22

Tsunami 500 GPH Cartridge Bilge Pump - $18

6 Volt 10 AH Sealed Lead Acid Battery ($17.95 shipped from this Ebay Seller who stocks them regularly as of 9/2011)

Radio Shack’s Project Enclosure (7x5x3”) - $6.50

1 – Radio Shack Toggle Switch - $3.50 (Currently waiting on a delivery of 2 screw on rubber marine toggle covers, $2 Ebay)

Igloo 24011 Replacement Drain Plug - $4 (to pass wires through the cooler wall)

4 feet of marine bungee -$5

Hopkins 12 in. 2 pole flat set connector from Autozone $2 (part number: 47965)

1 - Nite Ize S biner, size 2 - $2

2 – suction cup wreath hangers $1.50 each (locally in the Columbia area at “Carolina Pottery”)

Large Zip Ties

Plumbers Goop

Length of ½” Sched 40 PVC pipe, 2 – 90 degree PVC elbows, 1 – PVC cap, 1 – PVC threaded to slip adapter

2” long section of any ¾” inner diameter hose to make connection from bilge pump outlet to PVC threaded adaptor (see picture)

1 – NANO Spotter Light package WITHOUT base - $12.99 from PalmettoKayakFishing.com

Directions:

Start by cutting the ½” PVC pipe to the following lengths:

A) 3 ¾“

B) 6 ½“

C) 16 ½“

Drill 5 holes in the long horizontal PVC pipe and assemble as pictured. I did not use PVC glue on these pieces as the friction holds them together just fine and makes breaking everything down for storage much easier. Firmly seat one end of the ¾“inner diameter hose onto the output of the bilge pump and the other end to the threaded section of the ½“ PVC adapter. Secure the hose in place with large zip ties.

Reposition the plastic wreath hooks to the suction cups as pictured. Press both suctions in place and slide the horizontal PVC tube in place – you will hear it “click” once it is properly seated on the suction cup clips.

The 6 volt SLA battery was chosen so that the force of the streams of water wouldn’t injure the baitfish. The bilge pump (rated for 500 GPH at 12 volts) now circulates 250 GPH with the 6 volt battery. This setup is more than enough to keep the herring happy and makes hardwiring the Nano Spotter light (also 6 volts) possible.

After drilling holes, installing the switches, running/soldering wires, sealing everything with Goop, etc., I wedged some scrap foam around the battery inside the box to keep it from moving. I used some left over “Duct Seal” to make a gasket to seal the plastic project box door once it was installed and screwed in place. This step ensures a watertight housing, yet allows the battery to be accessed if needed. Once the rubber marine toggle covers get delivered they will be installed to protect the switches from water damage. I have used it as pictured in fresh water with no issues so far, but think that this step is important for long term durability.

The black project box from Radio Shack comes with two rear doors - one is plastic and one is thin aluminum. Use a hacksaw or other tool to shape the aluminum plate as noted in the picture. Drill the proper sized holes in the thin aluminum sheet in order to mount it to the cooler using the existing screws. Bore out the two bottom holes large enough to pass the bungee cord through. I just knotted the ends of the bungee cord that pass through these holes.

Once the plate is installed, assemble and zip tie the two pieces of bungee cord as pictured and attach the S biner. This setup secures the battery box quite nicely. Use a hole saw drill bit to carefully bore a hole through the top corner of the cooler below the lid. Be sure to keep pressure on the opposite side of the cooler wall with a scrap piece of lumber so the bit actually cuts a hole instead of cracking the inside wall. (I drilled through the outside wall first, carefully cut away the foam on the inside, then reinserted the bit while pressing a block against the inner wall.)

Install the replacement drain and seal liberally with Goop. Now you have a nice, clean connection sleeve for the 2 pole flat connectors. When the cooler is not being used for bait, the drain cap can be screwed back on.

I charge the 6 volt SLA battery with this 6 volt charger from Walmart. Instead of taking the battery out of the sealed box, just attach the charger’s alligator clips to the proper +/- connections on the 2 pole connector and flip the toggle switch on the project box to the “on” position to open up the circuit.

In order to hard-wire the Nano Spotter, I cut the flashlight with a hacksaw as pictured. I then molded an end cap to fit securely over the exposed portion, drilled a hole in the cap and passed the wires through the flashlight body. Next, I carefully soldered the wires to the positive and negative leads on the circuit board of the light. A liberal amount of Goop was used to seal the end cap and the hole drilled for the wires. I reassembled the flashlight head and left it in the "on" position, allowing the additional toggle switch to control the on/off settings remotely. The rest is pretty self-explanatory – if you need an explanation on the basics of wiring up the connectors (w/o a switch) see the pictures on the Battery Box Blog Post HERE.

You can get the same lighting result by just using the Nano Spotter without modifying it. 4 AAA batteries deliver 60 hours of run time and the waterproof flashlight can be zip tied to any of the PVC parts, either under the waterline or above. A twist of the rubber flashlight head is all it takes to turn this light on and off. In fact, if you attach the supplied diffusion cone on the light, it will float and it can be turned on and just be tossed in the bait well. Whatever route you take, the light option makes it so easy to net the baitfish in low light conditions. The Nano Spotter packages include the 4 colored disks as pictured here to change the color output if desired.

Available at Palmetto Kayak Fishing's Online Store - Click HERE

This bait well is solid and I have experienced great results from the battery. So far during the testing phase, I left both the battery and the light on for over 3 hours and it was still going strong. Herring also hold up quite well in there as I have noticed far fewer casualties compared to my previous setup. Lastly, I only fill the cooler up with water about a 1/3 of the way full which keeps the center of gravity of the bait well somewhat low in the back of my kayak. It is very manageable on the water and the light function is an much appreciated addition.

Enjoy! - Paul

Build a Rod Leash for Kayak Fishing

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Fri, 23 Sep 2011 11:47:00 +0000

“If you don’t want to lose it, strap it down or make sure it floats.” While I can’t remember where I first read this, I certainly haven’t forgotten its importance when fishing out of a kayak. I tend to carry four or so rods with me when I head out on the water and have been used homemade rod leashes since day one. These cheap leashes have saved me from losing a rod on a couple of occasions so far.

I made my first DIY Rod leashes from cell phone car charger, a brass clip and a section of strong, waterproof Velcro. Large zip ties and marine adhesive shrink wrap create the clean and strong connection points. The spring-like action of the coiled car chargers help to keep the cords bundled and out of the way.

While the Velcro option is secure, I found a connection method that I like even more. About 6 months ago, I was in Home Depot and came across a product designed to keep cords and wires organized called the “Cable Cuff".

I purchased a couple of the smallest versions for $0.99 each. These little cuffs are surprisingly strong for their size and fit perfectly on most fishing rods. They ratchet into place and wont scratch or damage the rods. The kicker is that it is very easy to secure and remove these cuffs on a rod – even one handed. This factor alone gives them a large advantage over the Velcro version.

These are very easy to construct. Start by drilling a hole in the tail end of the cuff as pictured below, making sure the Cable Cuff is in the open position. Secure the charger wire to the Cuff with a large zip tie. I used a small length of marine heat shrink to dress up the tag end but this is not necessary.

The pivoting arm of the Cuff needs to be trimmed at the second tooth back to make room for the cable wire. A little pressure on a sharp hand chisel makes a very clean cut.

Add a clip of your choice to the other end of the car charger wire, utilizing the same connection methods used on the Cuff end. Here I used light weight Nite Ize S clips available at The Backpacker if you are in the Columbia area or most Harbor Freight stores.

Enjoy! - Paul

****One note on coiled cell phone car chargers - they aren't all built the same! Look for a thick coiled model that is uniform in shape and will stretch to at least 6'. Most of the Nextel branded chargers are very strong, as are the Motorola and Verizon branded models. I often donate old clothes and other items we don't use anymore a church-based consignment shop called "His House". I purchased 4 thick Verizon car chargers there for $1 each. The money goes to a good cause the chargers stay out of a landfill and they work perfectly for this application.****

Ultimate DIY Kayak Crate

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Tue, 20 Sep 2011 11:33:00 +0000

The kayak crate. It is probably one of the most coveted pieces of equipment a kayak fisherman can own and for good reason. While most anglers use a standard plastic milk crate, I tend to make mine out of inexpensive and readily available store-bought containers. When I first got into the sport, I used file crates for storage. The problem with these is that the plastic is thin and the crate tends to flex. Zip tie a couple of rod holders to these units and over a short period of time, the plastic crate will deform. After designing my first DIY LARGE KAYAK CRATE, I found that there are some great, heavy duty containers just waiting to be modified for this application.

This build utilizes an "Itso" storage cube tthat can be found at Target for around $9. The plastic construction of this cube is extremely solid and it is an ideal size for most kayak tankwells. It measures in at 14.8"x14.8"x14.8" and weighs a little over 4 pounds. What makes this cube unique is that it has pre-drilled holes that match up perfectly for the PVC rod holder install.

The first step is to cut six 15.5" segments of 1.25" diameter PVC for rod holders. Although I don't usually carry 6 rods with me at one time, I use the holders for my DIY Telescoping Camera Pole for the GoPro HD and other accessories. I also built a removable carrying handle that utilizes the center rod holders and allows for one-handed portability - more on that later.

Once the PVC segments are cut, use Brillo soap pads and some water to remove the lettering from the PVC. My dad taught me this trick about 17 years ago when he would make furniture-grade rod holders out of various hardwoods and use the cleaned up PVC for the inserts.

If you don't own a heat gun or are not comfortable using one, simply sand the inside edge of the PVC pipes so that they don't bite into the rod handles. If you decide to go the heat gun route, do this OUTSIDE and wear proper safety gear including a respirator mask, eye protection and thick leather gloves.

I like to keep the heat gun stationary and rotate the PVC by hand as this method ensures even heating. I use a Modelo bottle for this next step for a handful of reasons. Most importantly, the glass is thick which is crucial for proper safety. I also really like the beer and the shape of the neck makes a perfect and uniform mold for the PVC every time.

Once the PVC is up to temperature, slide it over the Modello bottle until it stops on the notch below the neck as pictured. The PVC should easily slide into place. If it doesn't expand smoothly with little pressure, it is not hot enough. Leave it on the bottle for a few seconds and slide it back off. Repeat this sliding-on-and-off process as it cools. DO NOT leave the PVC on the bottle for an extended period of time. As the PVC cools it shrinks. If it is left on the bottle, this could lead to obvious safety issues. I keep a cold bucket of water next to me to dip the warm molded PVC (of course, without the bottle attached) in order to speed up the cooling process and set the PVC to shape.

Attach the PVC rod holders to the inside of the crate using large zip ties as depicted in the photos. For the middle rod holders that aren't on a corner, I ran two zip ties through the top hole and attached a brass claw style clip to serve as an anchoring point when the crate is used in the tankwell of the kayak (see photo).

One extra step I took was to drill a hole in the bottom of each PVC pipe and 2 more holes, side by side, in the bottom of the crate. One zip tie attached through the floor of the crate and through the PVC gives the rod holder that much more stability and keeps it from twisting or pulling out of the crate.

Using masking tape, mark out a section on the front of the crate that will be cut out. This "door" makes it very easy to access items in the crate. Use a hacksaw blade to carefully cut out the pattern. I installed Cowles Products - Door Edge Trim (Part #T3802 - O'Reilly Auto Parts LINK) to cover the rough edges and to dress the crate up a bit. This trim has strong adhesive housed inside the U-channel and only costs a couple of bucks.

You could stop here and have a really nice setup. I decided to go further with it and make things a little more organized. I took some scrap 7/8" fiberglass rods (1" PVC could be substituted), added rubber chair tip protectors to the ends and zip tied them to the PVC rod holders in the back of the crate as pictured. This provides a shelf for my Plano boxes and makes them easy to reach.

I ran a section of bungee cord through 2 of the existing holes in the top of the cube and knotted the ends. I made another loop of bungee cord and passed it over the horizontal bungee and around the two fiberglass rod supports (see photo). The tension that the combination of these two bungees creates holds the boxes in place, whether it be as many as 5 boxes or as few as 2. I left enough room under the bottom of the shelf to store my water bottles. There is still a lot of storage space left over in the front of the cube for other items.

Lastly, I built a handle out of a 10.5" length of 1" diameter PVC, two 6" sections of 1" diameter PVC and two 90 degree couplings. I can't tell you how nice it is to be able to throw 3 or 4 rods and my camera in my loaded crate and carry it one handed like a suitcase.

The top portion of the handle was sprayed with truck bed liner. I drilled two holes at an angle through both the rod holders and the vertical legs of the handle for an attachment point. PTO pins, available in this well-priced assortment available at Harbor Freight, make quick work of attaching and detaching the handle.

Enjoy! - Paul

MORE PICTURES BELOW

Homemade Wilderness Systems SlideTrax Hardware and Acessories Plates - 2012 Ride 135

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Tue, 06 Sep 2011 13:10:00 +0000

Wilderness Systems’ “SlideTrax”, available on many newer-model fishing kayaks, opens up an assortment of accessory mounting options for the kayak angler. If you are not familiar with the SlideTrax system, it is basically a metal rail that is molded into the deck of many WS kayaks and allows users to have a movable (and removable) mounting point for all kinds of accessories. After dropping a significant amount of cash on a new kayak, many paddlers don’t want to spend a lot of money on accessories. The cost of commercially available SlideTrax bolts, nuts and platforms can soar quickly. So to stay true with my DIY roots, I set out to fabricate my own setup.

When I first purchased Rachael’s Tarpon 140 with the SlideTrax system a few years back, I opted for the popular Toilet-to-Floor bolts method (Lowe's part number PP23517) to add accessories like Scotty rod holders.

One $2 package of brass bolts cut down to size and a couple of wing nuts are the main components. This option gets the job done and requires very few tools other than a hacksaw to cut the bolt down to size. The bolt has a rounded rectangular head that fits into the SlideTrax, leaving the threads pointing up through the holes in the cutting board. The only downside is that the toilet-to-floor bolt may spin ever so slightly in the track when tightening or loosening up the wing nut.

This time around I wanted to fabricate something that closer resembled the OEM hardware for the 2012 Ride 135 SlideTrax. OEM brass SlideTrax nuts are available online but the price is around $12 before shipping for a package of 4 nuts.

Using one of the OEM SlideTrax nuts from the Tarpon as a guide, I cut down blanks out of the leftover 1/8 x 3/4 x 3 aluminum flat stock (Lowe's part number 24403) from the rear transducer arm build. I rounded off the edges of the aluminum with a sander to match the curvature of the original hardware.

A 1/4"-20NC Tap and #7 Drill set that costs around $6 (Lowes Item #: 232572 or Home Depot Item # 1765538) produced the threads in the aluminum. I used a center punch in the middle of the aluminum blanks so my drill bit would stay in place.

Next, I put the hand drill on the slowest setting, using the tap bit to produce the threads. To make the accessory bases, I cut and shaped pieces of black cutting board (again, left over from the Transducer arm build).

One tip to make the cut edges of the board look super clean is to first use sandpaper to smooth the edges down. Follow up by using fine grade steel wool. When enough pressure is applied, the steel wool will make the edges “shine” and look like a custom molded piece of plastic instead of a chopped cutting board. This step really makes the accessory plate look very clean.

Mounting Hardware: (Home Depot is significantly cheaper than Lowe' on these items - for this build, I recommend buying all the components at HD vs. Lowe's if you want to make one stop.)

1 – package of Stainless Steel 1/4 in.-20 x 3/4 in. Button Head Socket Cap Screw (Home Depot part # 71918) includes 2 bolts

2 – packages of Nylon Spacers: .358 in. x 13/64 in. x 3/4 in. (Home Depot part # 87348)

Various SS bolts or screws for mounting accessories to the cutting board mounting base.

The nylon spacers were epoxied to the bottom of the accessory plate. This gives a smooth, raised surface for the accessory plate to glide on top of the SlideTrax. I keep an allen wrench in a pocket in my PDF in case I want to adjust the placement of the accessory plates or remove them all together.

The aluminum plates are very strong and lightweight. The tapped threads have not deteriorated in the least bit over the last month of use and I am confident that this setup is just as secure as the commercially available options.

Kayak Battery Box for the 2012 Ride 135

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Thu, 01 Sep 2011 12:31:00 +0000

While there are a lot of different power options for running a fish finder or other electronics on a kayak, I chose to stick with what has worked for me in the past. I went with a small sealed lead acid battery (SLA) available locally at Batteries Plus due to its long run time between charges and durability. There are a couple of different options and sizes available, but I specifically chose Werker’s 12v 7ah (part number: WKA12-7F2).

In my previous rig – the Ocean Kayak Prowler Big Game – there was a built in battery shelf inside the hull designed to house one of these SLA batteries. I must say that this option was well thought out and allowed me to leave the battery inside the kayak at all times much like a traditional fishing boat. Since the Ride 135 is a little different, an easy to build battery box works just fine.

For this build, I picked up a large Outdoor branded dry box from Walmart and test fitted it inside the center hatch of the 2012 Ride 135. Not only is it a perfect fit, it wedges securely into position either forward or back once on the floor inside the hull.

I prefer to keep it in the forward position because I like to stand in my Ride 135 and think that the floor may flex ever so slightly and possibly put unneeded pressure on the battery box if it were kept in the rear position.

To make the connection to the fish finder removable I purchased a Hopkins 12 in. 2 pole flat set connector from Autozone for around $2 (part number: 47965). In addition to being inexpensive and offering a watertight connection, this setup allows me to charge my battery without having to remove it from the box (see picture).

I simply cut the connector in two and soldered one end to the fish finder’s connections and the other end to the battery box leads. A few extra parts including battery terminal hardware, an inline fuse, marine heat shrink and extra wire were used for making the electrical connections from the battery to one end of the cut Hopkins connector.

Here is a tip on drilling into the dry box. Use a small drill bit to make a pilot hole into the plastic. Next, attach the larger drill bit that will bore the hole large enough to pass the wires through with the addition of the rubber stopper. REVERSE the drive of the drill so that the large bit spins counterclockwise. The reason for doing this is that it prevents the bit from digging into the rigid plastic too fast which can cause the box to crack. By using the large bit in reverse in a high speed drill, the friction and heat do most of the drilling instead of the cutting edge of the drill bit.

I passed the wires through the hole, modified a rubber stopper from Lowe's and added marine Goop to make a sealed port. Foam tubes cut to size house the battery inside the box and keep it from sliding around. I added one additional small piece of foam between the battery and the hinged door. It works great!

Related Past Posts: DIY Fish Finder Install
DIY Transducer Arm Fabrication

DIY Kayak Fish Finder Install - 2012 Wilderness Systems Ride 135

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Wed, 17 Aug 2011 12:32:00 +0000

Last week I published details on how I built a pivoting transducer arm that makes use of the existing rudder screw holes in the rear of the 2012 Ride 135. Since then, I have received quite a few requests for a write-up on how I completed the entire fish finder install. These instructions are pretty universal so no matter what you are paddling, the fundamentals are pretty much the same.

I chose a basic waterproof fish finder – Humminbird’s Piranhamax 170 – that can be purchased for around $100. What I like about the Piranhamax 170 is that it is simple, accurate, boasts a digital temperature gauge and has a vibrant LED backlight for low light/no light conditions. It utilizes dual beam sonar (60°& 20°) which produces great results in both the shallow and deep water that I regularly fish. My only gripe is that I wish the unit had a digital voltage display like my old Eagle Cuda.

Since I already had a few extra Scotty 241 bases left over, I decided to save some money and build a mounting post with some items I had laying around in the garage. The main components total around $3-$4 and include:

1 - 4.00" Round Plastic Electrical Box Cover – Lowes Item # 81585 (LINK)

1 - 1½” long, ¼’ diameter bolts (or something similar)

1 – Stop Nut to fit bolt

1 – ½” Schedule 40 PVC Coupling – Lowes Item # 23849 (LINK)

1 – ½” Schedule 40 PVC Pressure Plug - Lowes Item # 22679 (LINK)

1 length of schedule 40 PVC cut to 2-3/8”

Fish Finder Mounting Base

Drill a hole in the center of the round electrical box cover and one through the center of the PVC pressure plug. Slide the bolt and nut into place as pictured and tighten up the whole assemble. Using PVC glue, attach the PVC coupling to the end of the PVC pressure plug. Take the 2-3/8” section of PVC and glue it inside the coupling. The exposed length of ½” PVC pipe is what will hold the unit firmly inside the standard Scotty mount. I drilled an additional hole at the bottom of the PVC so that when the unit is inside the Scotty mount, I can slide a bolt or pin through it for added security.

(***To dress it up a little, I sprayed it with a can of “Truck Bed Liner” left over from another project. If you go this route, be sure to mask off the bottom section of exposed PVC so that it will still be able to fit inside the Scotty Mount.)

I used the stainless steel screws that came with the fish finder to mount it to the plate. Once in position, I smoothed off the points of screws so that they were flush with the round plate using a Dremel tool.

Installing the Unit

I used the Dremel tool to bore out the underside of the Scotty mount to make more space for the transducer and power cords (see picture). Once this was completed, I placed the Scotty mount in position on the deck and drilled out 4 holes for the mounting screws. Next, I selected a drill bit that would create a hole large enough in the center area of the 4 mounting screw holes to allow the wires and plugs to pass through the kayak deck.

Using a rubber stopper - 3/4 x 9/16 x 1 Lowes Item # 139548 (LINK) – I drilled, shaped and cut the rubber as pictured. Again, there are commercially available marine accessories that accomplish the same thing, but I had an extra rubber stopper from the transducer arm install so I decided to put it to use.

Leave 12” of slack in both wires from the rubber stopper to the end of the wire plugs. Remove the rubber stopper while holding the wires in position to maintain the 12” of slack. Generously coat the entire rubber stopper and both wires with Marine Goop. Push everything back into position and add a small amount of goop to the 4 mounting holes as pictured. Carefully mount the Scotty mount to the deck ensuring that there is enough space for the wires to pass through without any pinching.

Click for Transducer Arm DIY instructions

The next blog post will feature a DIY removable battery box setup that I use to power this unit. Have fun out there! - Paul

Palmetto Kayak Fishing Facebook Challenge - win free gear!

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Wed, 10 Aug 2011 14:59:00 +0000

So here is the challenge. We are currently at 318 fans on our Facebook page. Help us get the Palmetto Kayak Fishing Facebook fan page up to 400 "Likes" and we will reward one lucky fan with a nice prize pack valued at over $75.

Tell your friends about us, send out a simple post on your own Facebook page, tweet it - it is that easy. Once we hit the 400 mark I'll do a random drawing for one of PKF's 5' fiberglass Stake Out Poles as well as a PKF Fiberglass Floating 5 LED Light Stick package shipped anywhere in the US. Thanks for your support and good luck! - Paul

DIY Kayak Transducer Arm for the 2012 Wilderness Systems Ride 135

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Tue, 09 Aug 2011 15:02:00 +0000

I have received a lot of questions on how I fabricated the rear transducer arm for my 2012 Ride 135. There are a few elements I may update with this setup in the future, but I really like the way it works as-is. In the past I have used transducer arms that hang over the side of the kayak (like this DIY removable fish finder project) or installed the transducer so that it fires through the hull. This new setup accomplishes a couple things: 1) water temperature is accurately measured and 2) the transducer is protected, out of the way and creates minimal drag. Having the ability to rotate it up and out of the way also makes things easy during transport.

Shopping list:

Poly Cutting Board (Walmart, Target, etc.)

Aluminum Flat 1/8 x 3/4 x 3' (LINK)

1 Rubber Stopper 3/4 x 9/16 x 1 Lowes Item # 139548 (LINK)

Package of ¼-20 x ¾ SS Oval Head Machine Screws for mounting assembly to existing rudder holes – Lowes Item #136337 (LINK)

Package of 8-32 x 2 SS machine screws Lowes Item # 136468 (LINK)

Package of 8-32 Stainless Steel Forged Wing Nuts Lowes Item # 136212 (LINK)

Zip Ties, Marine Goop

(Note: Some of the Lowe's links may display "product not available online" but they are regularly stocked in all the local stores)

Step 1

Cut out a 4” X 1.5” rectangle from the poly cutting board. As pictured, cut an additional slot in the center of the 1.5” side at the ¾” mark that is 2.5” in length as depicted in the photos. Make sure the slit is wide enough to accommodate the width of the aluminum flat stock.

Step 2

While wearing thick leather work gloves, use a heat gun to bring the poly rectangle up to temperature, focusing on the slotted end. Once the poly rectangle is pliable, secure it in a vice and bend by hand until it looks similar to the one in the pictures. Hold it in the curved position until the poly cools.

Step 3

Using a vice, make a 90 degree bend in the aluminum stock that will accommodate a proper mounting point for your transducer. Cut the stock to 10” in length above this bend.

Step 4

Line up the poly rectangle on the stern of the kayak where the preinstalled rudder mounting holes are located. Mark and drill the holes in the poly rectangle and use the ¾” SS Oval head bolts to temporarily mount the unit to the kayak as pictured. Slide the aluminum flat stock arm into the slit in the poly and position the arm so that it is vertical. Note that the aluminum arm will rest against the 2 mounting bolts that hold the poly to the kayak.

Mark and drill a hole starting on one side of the poly cutting board, continuing through the aluminum arm and back out the other side of the cutting board that will accept the 8-32 x 2 SS machine screw. Slide the bolt into position and tighten the wing nut, creating a pivot point for the arm. Clean up the aluminum arm with a grinder making sure to round off all sharp edges.

Step 5

Remove the factory installed drain plug from the rear portion of the kayak and feed the transducer cable into the hull. Drill a hole through the rubber stopper that is the same size as the transducer cable. Using a razor blade, cut a slit into the stopper until it meets the hole that was just drilled. This will allow the cable to slide into the stopper as pictured. Place a liberal amount of Marine Goop on the stopper, transducer cable and drain hole and slide the stopper snugly into place. Allow it to dry and ensure that you have a watertight and secure seal.

Step 6

Mount the transducer to the arm and secure the cable with zip ties or similar method. I used some of the hardware that came with my fish finder to route the cable from the rubber stopper to the aluminum arm. That’s pretty much it!- Paul

2012 Wilderness Systems Ride 135 Review

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Fri, 05 Aug 2011 22:52:00 +0000

The redesigned 2012 Wilderness Systems Ride 135 delivers a remarkable fishing platform in a well thought out package. Mine came in on Tuesday from Austin Canoe & Kayak and I spent the afternoon rigging it up for fishing. I added a few basic items like an anchor trolley, Scotty mount rod holders, fish finder, custom transducer arm and some homemade Slidetrax accessory plates. Rigging a new kayak from the ground up is one of my favorite hobbies and each time I seem to find a better way to do a few things.

The center hatch was damaged during shipping, but Austin Canoe & Kayak took care of it immediately. Thirty minutes after the call, I had a FedEx tracking number and the new hatch was on its way. The sense of urgency that that the ACK customer service reps took with this issue was impeccable. Accidents happen - it’s all about how a company responds to a problem. I’ll be the first to say that ACK embodies true customer service.

Other companies/industries in our weak economy should definitely take note. In the meantime, I “borrowed” the center hatch from my girlfriend’s Tarpon 140 and replaced my broken unit with it until the new one is delivered.

On Wednesday I loaded up the Ride and took it out to a local pond for the first test paddle. I was amazed - literally amazed by how well this kayak performed. I’m 6’8”, 240lbs and not only is the 2012 Ride 135 incredibly comfortable, there is room to spare. It is dry, gets up to speed quite easily and tracks well. For its large stature, it is surprisingly easy to paddle and control. So well in fact, that I don’t think it should be categorized as just another “big guy’s kayak”. I have no doubt that my much smaller girlfriend could paddle this yak with ease. In addition, the fly fishing crowd is probably going to appreciate a lot of the styling cues that this yak has to offer.

Granted, the new Ride 135 is a little on the heavy side but so are the majority of other fishing kayaks in this class. When loading the kayak on the roof rack or carting it down to the water using my Bulletproof DIY Cart, I don’t notice any significant weight difference from that of my previous big man’s fishing kayak that the Ride 135 is replacing.

The seating system coupled with the floor layout is genius. In other kayaks I have owned, I run into a common problem - there never seems to be enough leg room for me from the seat to the foot pegs. I have historically had to modify the design of the foot pegs to make my legs more comfortable, but the Ride’s configuration worked perfectly right out of the box.

The amount of flat floor space on the deck of the new Ride 135 just begs the kayak angler to stand up and fish. Combine this feature with the super stable pontoon-style hull design and a whole new standard in fishing kayaks is born. Even with the wind blowing at a good clip, I wasn’t even remotely concerned about stability while standing for the first time. Transitioning from a standing position back into the seat – a topic that is rarely discussed yet is equally as important- was effortless.

Another nice touch is the sliding seat system. The robust seat is very comfortable and has multiple adjustment points that allow for a tailored fit. Back support is also more than sufficient. Changing the position of the seat works much like a manually adjustable seat in a car and is surprisingly smooth. This arrangement allows the paddler to adjust his weight over the deck of the kayak, giving the user control over how the yak sits in the water. I tend to carry quite a bit of gear in my kayak crate so having this option will be a welcomed change when I am out fishing. It is also worthy to note that the seat can be removed completely which opens up a lot of doors for custom configurations. Given the stability of this kayak, an aftermarket “high seat” would be very feasible.

So in a nutshell, I couldn’t be more pleased with the new 2012 Ride 135. A lot more details and how-to rigging ideas coming soon! - Paul

Thanks for reading and be sure to visit our online store at www.PalmettoKayakFishing.com

2012 Wilderness Systems Ride 135 Pictures

2012 Ride 135 Rigged

My custom built transducer mounting system - more on this later!

Facebook Challenge Successful - Free PDF kayak camera pole instructions

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Wed, 27 Jul 2011 23:20:00 +0000

Thank you all for helping Palmetto Kayak Fishing, LLC's Facebook page reach 300 fans! As promised, I posted the DOWNLOADABLE PDF INSTRUCTIONS for building an aluminum telescoping kayak camera pole on PKF's store website (click the link in yellow). It is easy to build, inexpensive and durable.

If interest continues to rise, PKF will release more free downloadable instructions like this in the future. Tell a friend and join the PKF Facebook page if you haven't done so already - we would love to hear your feedback. Thanks again and I hope you enjoy the build! - Paul

Facebook Fan Page Challenge - Free, Downloadable Kayak Camera Mount Instructions

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Fri, 22 Jul 2011 13:18:00 +0000

Here's the deal. Once we reach 300 "likes" on Palmetto Kayak Fishing, LLC's Facebook page, I will post FREE DOWNLOADABLE PDF instructions on how to build this 5.5 foot aluminum telescoping camera mount/light mount pictured below. It fits nicely in 1.5" rod holders, costs less than $15 to construct and can be built in less than 30 minutes! - Paul

Palmetto Kayak Fishing, LLC's Facebook Page - Click for the Link

Stake Out Poles

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Wed, 20 Jul 2011 15:51:00 +0000

“You plan on doing some spear fishing?” I can’t tell you how many times I have heard some variation of this line followed by a chuckle or two when I’m launching my fishing kayak in a public area in the Midlands of South Carolina. What onlookers are referring to is my stake out pole or anchor pin. While quite common in coastal areas, SOPs aren’t exactly popular around many of the lakes and rivers that I routinely fish. My SOP of choice (surprise, surprise) is the PKF 5’ solid fiberglass shaft option with T -handle and 550 paracord leash. Instead of having to toss out an anchor, the SOP allows me to quickly and quietly pin my kayak in shallow water. This is extremely useful in the wind or current. The SOP also removes the hassle of having to dodge the anchor line while fighting a hooked up fish.

SOPs can be used in a variety of ways. I deploy my SOP through one of the scupper holes in my sit-on-top kayak, slide it through the ring on my anchor trolley or use the supplied paracord leash to clip it to an eyelet on the deck.

The conditions usually dictate which method I chose. In choppy water, I use the 4’ leash because it allows me to put some distance between my kayak and the pole. This way I am not banging up against the SOP every time the wind blows or a wave rolls by. In rivers, I slide the SOP through one of the scuppers and wedge it into the river floor or between rocks. This method works exceedingly well in light current. If I am in a back cove, I slide the SOP through the ring in my anchor trolley. With a gently pull of the anchor trolley rope I can reposition the direction of my kayak with ease. No matter what method is used, having a leash allows the SOP to remain secured to the kayak at all times.

I’ve seen (and built) SOP’s constructed out of just about everything from PVC to wooden broom sticks, metal conduit to bamboo….the list goes on and on. After all, the basic “technology” isn’t exactly advanced – for all intensive purposes a SOP is essentially a pointed pole. But for those of us that take kayak fishing a little more seriously, fiberglass construction coupled with a few basic accessories can take the shallow water fishing experience to the next level.

Why fiberglass? It is durable* and is at home in a marine environment. Rigidity plays a very important role in SOP construction as well. There is a “sweet spot” between rigidity and flexibility for SOP construction. Like shocks on a car, a SOP that has some flex absorbs most of the impact from rough water, wind or current. Not only does the kayaker feel less jolt, the slight flex keeps the SOP firmly planted.

So whether you build your own SOP or purchase a commercially available one, this tool can greatly improve your kayak fishing experience in shallow water. If nothing else, it is a great conversation piece at the boat landing - especially if you tell the locals you are still after that white whale.

-Paul

* PKF’s Fiberglass Shaft SOPs are also coated in a special smooth outer sheath that won’t crack, yellow or otherwise deteriorate from water or UV exposure. For more information click here to visit PKF’s online store

Kayak Fishing Women

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Wed, 06 Jul 2011 14:06:00 +0000

It’s not every day that you will find Rachael willing to lip a fish. Our past kayak fishing trip on Lake Murray in June had her pushing the boundaries of what she thought she could do. Rachael has come a long way since her first paddling excursion in Mexico in 2007. In fact, both of us were convinced that she would never find herself back in the seat of a kayak after that rough experience. But things change and her determination to not give up on kayaking has blossomed into something I could have never predicted. I think it is safe to say that Rachael is hooked on kayak fishing.

DIY Telescoping Kayak Camera Pole

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Mon, 27 Jun 2011 20:48:00 +0000

For less than $25, you can build your own telescoping aluminum camera pole that is strong, lightweight and functional. I have been using this design since December 2010 when I purchased my GoPro HD camera. The fact that this pole is infinitely adjustable from the closed position up to 5’ in height really makes it very versatile and allows easy access to my camera while the pole is secured in the 1¼” PVC rod holder in my kayak crate. I usually set the camera at a height where all I have to do is reach up and press the power button to start filming (instant on filming – excellent idea by GoPro!) Using this pole in conjunction with a camera like the GoPro HD, you can create some spectacular overhead photos/videos. I have also had great results with a handful of other waterproof cameras as well. With a little ingenuity, this design can be slightly modified to fit just about any application and angle. Lastly, the marine friendly components make this DIY project a great choice for kayak fishermen.

There really isn’t too much involved in building one of these poles. As with most of my DIY builds, you can usually purchase all the items you need locally:

1) LOWE'S - NeatHome by Unger Flow Through Water Pole ($12.98)

2) RADIO SHACK - Targus Table Top Tripod Targus Model # TGT-CT7 ($7.99)

3) LOWE'S - ½” PVC Cap - slip ($0.27)

4) LOWE'S - short length of ½” PVC for joining the two pieces together

5) LOWE'S - ½" PVC Threaded Male Adapter ($0.33)

6) DOLLAR STORE - Pool Noodle ($1.00)

7) LOWE'S - 7/8 -1" Rubber Chair Tips ($2.28 for 4)

8) LOWE'S - ½” PVC Double Threaded Female Coupling ($0.46) - *Pictured below*

I utilized the adjustable camera ball head from an aluminum Targus Table Top Tripod (Targus Model # TGT-CT7) that can be picked up at Radio Shack for $7.99. A quick Google search shows that they are also available at Kmart for the same price. Using a phillips head screwdriver, remove the bolt that secures the tripod to the ball head. Save the bolt and the rubber gasket.

Step 1

Drill a hole in the center ½ inch PVC cap that will allow the bolt to pass through. Try and get this hole as close to center as possible for a clean, level install. The rounded shape of the PVC cap works perfectly to seat the ball head and allows for use of the original mounting bolt. Slide the bolt through the hole, add the rubber O-ring and put some Loctite or Epoxy on the bolt threads. Tighten everything up.

Step 2

Using the short piece of ½” PVC pipe, join and glue the following pieces together.

Step 3

Brush on some PVC Transition glue to the black threads of the pictured aluminum rod. Screw on the double threaded ½” coupling. The narrow threads of the PVC coupling will “rethread” the black plastic threads on the pole and the result is a tight, secure fit – especially with the addition of the transition glue. Now you have a pole that can be interchanged with various accessories using cheap PVC parts (SEE OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES at the end of this write up). As pictured, the camera mount portion can now affixed to the telescoping rod.

Step 4

Remove the hose connector at the end of the aluminum pole. The easiest way to do this is to tighten the black hose connector in a vice and twist the aluminum pole.

Liberally apply gel hand sanitizer to the aluminum pole and the undersides of the black foam rubber grips. This will allow you to move the grips around until the sanitizer evaporates. Slide both grips off then thread the pool noodle onto the pole. Position one grip on the pole and roll up the other one as pictured.

Slide it back on the pole until it is flush with the other grip and unroll the foam so the two pieces overlap. This will ensure a tight fit inside of a 1 ¼” diameter PVC pipe rod holder. Slide on the rubber chair Tip.

Pretty easy right? Like I noted before, once the basic pole is built, it is easy to interchange all kinds of accessories.

For less than .50 cents, pick up another ½” screw-to-slip PVC adapter and a short length of PVC pipe. Palmetto Kayak Fishing sells Waterproof 5 LED Nano Spotter marker Lights with (or without) a custom molded base in the parts department. If you order the light with the base, simply glue the assembly together as pictured and screw it onto the pole instead of the camera. Or get creative, add a PVC “T” adaptor and mount both your camera and a light at the same time - the possibilities are endless. Enjoy - Paul


Parts Department - Nano Spotter Waterproof Light with custom base - $15.99 + S/H

May 2011 - Striper Fishing the Congaree/Saluda Rivers in Columbia

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Wed, 22 Jun 2011 12:28:00 +0000

It was a good run this spring on the rivers in Columbia as far a striper fishing goes! Here is a short video from the last trip I made in May. Striper fishing on the rivers is over until after September 30th - even for catch and release. For more information, check out SCDNR's website.

Hmm...what to do next? Smallmouth fishing on the rivers, largemouth and stripers on the lake? You'll just have to check back and see. - Paul

DIY Portable Fishfinder For Your Kayak

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Fri, 17 Jun 2011 12:06:00 +0000

I have been asked quite a few times recently about my fish finder setups and what I would recommend as far as units and mounting are concerned. When I wrote for Examiner.com I published a basic “how to” article on making a removable system. Instead of linking back to Examiner, I decided to park the write-up here with a few updates.

Backlight on the Humminbird Piranhamax

As far as units go, I have a Cuda 242 permanently mounted on one of my Big Game’s and a Piranhamax 160 on a removable setup that I use on my girlfriend’s tarpon 140. Whenever I head to Virginia, I take the removable unit and use it on my Big Game that I keep at my family’s house. Both are great basic fishfinders, but the Piranhamax has a better LED backlight system if you plan on fishing at night. If I ever have to replace either unit, I will probably take a hard look at some of the higher end color units that have more features. But if you want a great fishfinder at an exceptional price, the Cuda series from Eagle and the Piranhamax line from Humminbird are excellent contenders in the sub $100 range.

The technology housed in the most basic sonar unit can be a real asset to the kayak fisherman. Modern units are waterproof, energy efficient and can be powered by a variety of different battery options. This write up will focus on the basic guidelines used in the construction of a removable, all in one, portable assembly that even a novice do-it-yourselfer can put together in a few hours.

The unit pictured in this article, the Humminbird Piranhamax 160, retailed for $89 at the West Marine in July of 2010. The newer Piranhamax 170 is currently available for $79 at a number of different retailers local and online. Aside from the basic sonar functions, this model includes a water temperature sensor and a 5 stage adjustable backlight setting. I called Humminbird and was reassured the unit operates on a power input range of 10 to 20 volts. This is nice because it gives a lot of flexibility when considering how to power the unit. Since portability is the objective, 12 NiMH rechargeable “AA” batteries wired in a series (diagram can be seen HERE) were chosen to power the unit. Each of the rechargeable “AA” batteries supplies 1.2 volts (as opposed to standard, non rechargeable “AA”s that deliver 1.5 volts) for a total of 14.4 volts when wired in a series. The 12 rechargeable batteries will power the unit for more than 8 hours of continuous use.

The basics components of the mounting assembly are listed below:

Lowes:

A length of ½” schedule 40 PVC pipe

(1) - Weatherproof Round Blank Plastic Cover (electrical aisle)

(2) - ½” “T” PVC slip fittings

(1) - ½” 90 degree elbow PVC fitting

(2) – ½” PVC plug (flat portion to which the round black cover is bolted to the PVC assembly)

Package of Velcro One Wraps 23" x 7/8" each (located at the end of aisles at Lowes)

(1) – 18 inch length of flat aluminum bar (bolt and screw aisle)

Various mounting nuts, bolts and screws – all stainless steel.

1 ½” diameter ABS black plastic tube, cap & screw on fitting (for battery housing, located in the PVC aisle)

(1) – small jar of PVC glue

(1) – tube of silicone sealant
(1) – tube of Loctite thread locker

Radio Shack:

(3)– 4 AA battery holder

(1) – package of heavy duty snap connectors

Since each application is different, use the pictures as a guide to construct your own setup. I selected a Scotty Triple Rod holder for the base of the mount, but a standard single Scotty mount receptacle will work just fine too with a little creativity. The triple mount provides a very solid platform to mount all of the components and leaves one mounting hole open for other accessories. All the white PVC parts are glued together except for the horizontal piece that slides into the 90 degree fitting. Leaving one end of the arm unglued allows the transducer arm to swivel up and out of the way in shallow water. Glue the flat PVC cap into the "T" fitting and drill a hole through the center of the gray round plastic disk and the end cap. Attach the two pieces with a large bolt and nut (use Loctite on the threads). Using the included hardware, attach the fishfinder to the gray plate as pictured above. Cut two small lengths of PVC tubing and glue them into the down ends of the "T" fittings. These pieces fit snuggly into two holes of the Scotty triple mount and lock the whole assembly in place.

The picture above gives a clearer illustration of how to wire up the unit. The positive (+) wire from one holder is soldered to the negative (-) wire on the next battery holder. When all three holders are wired in a series, solder the remaining positive and negative wires to the power cord supplied with the fishfinder. Each battery assembly slides into the black ABS plastic tube. Apply silicone sealant around the power wire where it exits through the battery tube to ensure a watertight assembly.

Bend the end of the aluminum bar at a 90 degree angle and mount the transducer to it using stainless steel nuts and bolts. Be sure to apply Loctite to the threads to ensure a semi-permanent bond. Slide the other end of the bar inside the vertical portion of the PVC pipe, drill a hole through both sections and bolt into place. Attach the transducer wire to the arm with Velcro and wrap the excess transducer cord around the black ABS battery tube. Secure the wrapped wire to the battery tube with 2 Velcro straps. Lastly, attach the battery tube to the horizontal PVC arm with the remaining straps until a solid connection is made.

I have been using this setup for just about a year now and it still works great. If I were to change anything, it would be to add a cotter pin or something similar to the PVC arm that swivels up and down. It still works just fine as-is, but the cotter pin would allow for it to lock in an upward position a little more securely.

DIY - Transporting Rods on a Kayak Rack

noreply@blogger.com (Palmetto Kayak Fishing) — Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:42:00 +0000

If you have a truck rack similar to the Thule Xsporter, there is a cheap and easy way to transport your fishing rods. I got tired of carrying them in the cab of my truck all the time so I came up with this method. I chose Berkley’s HR1 Horizontal Rod Holder based on the fact that it does a great job of protecting the rods tips and holds up well in the South Carolina sun.

The fact that they are $10 for a set at your local Walmart doesn’t hurt either. One set “could” hold up to hold 12 rods on the rack, but I prefer to space the reels a little bit apart to ensure no rubbing takes place. If I stagger the rods, I can carry 8 combos without any issue.

Using Velcro’s 15 inch reusable ties (comes in a package of 30) from Lowe’s, secure the rod holders to the back bar of the rack upside down as pictured. Lowe’s sells two lengths of these ties so make sure you purchase the 15” model.

Once in position, the HR1’s will not move. If you have more unused space on the rack you could mount them right side up and have the rods rest on top of the bar instead of having them hang. I chose to mount them under the bar so that I can have both kayaks on the rack and also strap in my rods. Just remember to remove your rods first prior to removing the kayaks when you get to your destination.

Purchase these Task Force 12” bungees from Lowe’s. They will need to be shortened a little based on your specific application. To do this, simply push the knot end of the bungee through the back of the blue ball, retie and cut the excess bungee off. I believe mine are around 7” now which allows for easy installation while keeping the butt end of the rod very secure against the crossbar of the rack.

The rubber strip mounted under the Xsporter rack acts as a cushion and prevents any scratching of the rods when under tension from the tarp bungees. If you are using a different rack, pipe insulation foam rubber or something similar will function in the same manner.

That is pretty much it. To load the rods on the rack, secure the butt ends with the bungee cord first then pop the rod tips into the HR1 holder. It takes almost no time to load up and take down a handful of rods. This system has been mounted on my rack for over 3 months and shows no damage from use or the elements. I couldn’t be happier with the results.