Panama Surf Photos - Panama Surf - Photography Surf - Surf Photographer

Surf Charter with Bolivar

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 13:07:15 PDT

Lately I have been thinking about the rawness of this blog. I truly started this blog as a scape from the corporate life I live in and the first world material aspect of the Panamanian bushes I live in. I don't expect everyone to like how or what I write and don't expect others to love it. I just write, dont think too much or check on misspelled words...

A few years back I was starting my online tour agency, was 24 years of age approx and was looking for ways to make some $ in order to eat and pay the bills. I had heard about a great wave where I could possibly take some local pro surfers on a surf charter and make an event where funds were coming this way. I made some phone calls, sales copy, liability contract, structured a plan and started to sell the event as a secret spot boat tour. The trip was a success and I had food for a few more months on the table.

Three years after, my old friend and pro surfer Bolivar Andres called me and asked me to join him on a sailing journey to this spot. I said: Bro! im down with it! On the way to the marina I bought a six pack of beer and a pack of cigars, yes, cigars! I wanted to smoke like (Fidel Castro) and chill on the way while we navigated during the night. Usually, I travel with close friends where we can laugh and make fun of things, but this trip was a little different.

I sat down on the deck, smoking and drinking my beer. As soon as everyone showed up, I felt everyone was different and had a different thing to say. Imagine; There was 2 riders from a surf company team and 1 ex owner of the competitive surf company (Conversation Topic - Company A vs Company B), 3 young kids (early 20's) who were in charged of a 1 million dollar worth sailboat (Conversation Topic - None - Quiet all the time) who had just navigated from Ecuador to Panama and me (Conversation Topic - Cigar and Beert). Weird? sounds different to me!

So, I was asking my self if we were going to score the waves I had originally seen on my first trip. The answer was NO! However, was able to catch some shots of this session...

PanamaSurfPhotos.org (under maintenance)

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 22:00:44 PDT

We are still under maintenance. Soon to make a liquid template adaption for those who cant see this right in their screens. Slowly but surely! Cheers! Fidel

PanamaSurfPhotos.org (Under Maintenance)

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 20:57:35 PST

The Website is under maintenance and reconstruction!

You will be seeing changes in the next weeks...

Rgrds,
P11

Felipe Arias

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 08:21:56 PDT

Felipe Arias is unique. He keeps him self moving along with quivers (which include a blue pill single fin, short-boards, twin finner, long board skateboard, shortboard skateboards, video camera and a guitar), lives a thrifting life traveling the world recording his trips and sponsored by him self. He surfs retro style, but you will not see him trying to pop airs or aggressive turns, his surfing is like bread and butter, happy soft turns, large drops, barrels and life's inspiration. But these external points don't make Felipe unique; but its the "punkrock, hippie, blues vibe" mechanism that sets him apart. His perspectives are deep and thoughtful and better described as pure honesty, anti hypocrite, fuck off rocker, peace and love hippie surfing drifter...

He isn't the way he is because it's cool to be a free-surfer and he doesn't ride boards because its cool to do so.

Perhaps the best way to answer the question is to say that Felipe Arias is a free humble philosopher about life and music-- a very raw description in a culture full of men with fucked up egos, childish behavior and lack of music and cultural art. What is Felipe like?

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: Can we start off, Felipe, with a little bit on where did you grew up?

Felipe: I grew up in Panama city and Taboga a small island by Panama City.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: What was your parents life like when you were a kid?

Felipe: Lots of ocean life, boats and youthful mischief, my parents where happy and hardworking.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: I understand your father is a very successful business minded person and experienced business man. Did they ever positively support your influence in music and boardsports or tried forcing you to become a corporate mind?

Felipe: No they pretty much let me do my own thing, even though i was kinda weird growing up
playing punk and skating and stuff...but my dad would go to some of that gigs and enjoy them
he also helped me built my first lunch ramp and mini half so that was pretty cool. They've enjoyed my wierdness i hope.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: Panamanians are very judgmental and it seems like your vision and experiences of travel / books not found in Panama have turned you into a "wild card figure" in this conservative and religiously mixed culture,how do you feel internally?

Felipe: i feel stoked... i don't care about people who don't matter to me
i only care about the people who do there own thing and
really don't give a fuck. I think that's inspirational.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: So there is a quiver in your heart?

Felipe: Single fins got my soul...

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: Obviously as a free surfer, there’s no points that you’re chasing in Panama's professional surfworld. But is there something that you’re chasing that’s of some sort of value?

Felipe: yeah am searching for fun, illumination and tranquility some smiles too those are good. Am on the fun plan like mark Gonzales, having fun is the most important thing in life for me and being humble.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: Spiritually, is prayer something that you actively set out and do?

Felipe: Well surfing is a type of prayer or ritual with the ocean. Thats why i do it too. The ocean
cleans your karma and checks it too.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: Is there a higher power that you look to?

Felipe: Am a Buddhist i think the most important thing is believing in yourself instead of something imaginary. I believe in the Universe, in the planet earth and it's need to be respected, in metaphysics and the mysterious power of energy and vibe.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: How do you measure success?

Felipe: By your inner level of true happiness. If your a millionare but your bumed it sucks. If your poor and stoked your killing it.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: Let's bring it back to surfing and being in the water. Do you consider the act you do on the wave an act of sport or an act of art?

Felipe: shit, am just having fun. But surfing is an art form for sure...like skating too i related more to music than a sport like basketball or something.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: How integral is surfing in relation to who you are and how you present yourself? What percentage of surfing and the need to go surfing creates Felipe Arias?

Felipe: thats wierd question...i like surfing....its fun and you get to be in the ocean and
experience its power and strength. The ocean is like a living god so you can test yourself, measure yourself with the ocean, check your karma on a big day. Get something that's in your head visualizing it and then making it real that's cool too.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: Have you ever been in a fight in the water?

Felipe: No i've never been in a fight. I don't like fights, i like arguing and testing peeoples
wits and brain capacity. Just lyrical thought confrontation i like, but physical is gay
i don't like fighting it's a real bummer.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: Where do you see your self in 5 years?

Felipe: Hopefully alive and healthy, still playing music skating and surfing.
And with a big smile on my face, i hope i've seen a couple of more places in the world
Japan, Indonesia, Hawaii and Aussie land sound good.

PanamaSurfPhotos.org: Thanks for the words and keep rocking!

Felipe's Film Making

Felipe's Surfing, Skateboarding and Music

Felipe's Music

http://www.myspace.com/losflasheros

Paul Fisher

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:28:14 PST

A few months back a friend of mine told me that a guy named Paul Fisher was around. I had never heard about this one! When you are thinking about your future, projects "soon to be called hotel" your mind is not really thinking of who is who unless media injects it in your system. Right, thats what is happening without wanting, Paul Fisher the surfer, yes, he is a surfer and seems like a lot of people know him and he knows a lot of people.

Right after I stopped surfing cuz of "the" back injury I started seeing surfing differently. It seems like if I had never broken my back I would had not put my mind into 3 businesses or professions that allowed me to build my dream. For most hardcore surfers, there is nothing else but surf, waves surf, surf barrels, bra, bro, surf and you get stuck with it... It was hard for me to get out of the trans...

According to Machado "Pro surfers are a bit crazy and wierd, they compete among 47 other guys and 1 wins then you get 46 asking, why did I loose?" Geeeze! when ever I get kids, I will tell them to play soccer or baseball if they want to be sane and make real money. No Pipeline in their heads for no $, no Tahiti in their heads for no $... Kick or Hit a ball and you will be safe and with a lot of $$$.

Here is Paul Fisher and the remaining of the whole trip I erased! Great me!

Barrel Poll

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:32:06 PST

Here are my favorite Barrel shots taken thru the past 12 months and a poll for you guys to pick.

Slab Surf

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:32:58 PST

One year has gone by since the last Carnival experience at my Island Property. This year for my advantage things were mellower, surf was epic and quality time with friends were a success. The "Moco de Pavo" experience was eyes opening as time goes by I realize I am a fortunate person to have such a great farm and fam of friends. When Slab surfing comes to my mind I think about Australia, dont know exactly why cuz im sure there are tons of surf slabs all over the world.

On Friday Feb 12, 2010, I was able to drive out to the farm with my friend Pedro, Poti and Santiago "Layo" Cambefort to the farm. Little by little people showed up, built their tents and were set to stay for 4 days of chilaxation. The new rule was "watch out for coconuts and separate your trash"... None of them were applied... Oviously was a bit stressful to see people sitting under palm trees and getting mad about me telling them to watch for coconuts every 4 seconds. If any one knows how to manage that without killing the palms please let me know.

Among all my friends only "Layo" was the most capable to deliver some good sexy poses for the camera on a orange retro surfboard made by my other friend and shaper (Juan Jimenez) from BoaSurfBoards.com.

Here is a slide of the shots, enjoy...
General Slide

Barrel Sequence "Layo"

Rob Machado the Drifter

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 13:47:30 PDT

Last post I dropped some lines about expectations.

The bottom line on my last post:

"Having expectations about how your desires should manifest will produce negative feelings when your expectations are not met".

About a month ago, I had a quick meeting with "Jota Alfaro" a Panamanian surfer friend who happens to be the "Hurley" Rep here in Panama. I was telling him how I cannot expect to take water-shot photography too seriously in such a small country. The surf industry in Panama is relatively small, very closed "for the ones succeeding" who keep "$success$" to them selves and there are a minimal amount of good level surfers. In the other hand, Surf brands usually bring their photographers along with the international pros and regardless of these points, I make a living from other sources keeping photography as an amazing hobby and spinal chord therapy. Unexpectedly during the meeting, Jota mentioned that he liked my surf shots and that Rob Machado the Drifter was probably coming to Panama. So now there was a random unconfirmed chance to shoot a great surfer.

Drifter Rob Machado showed up to Panama and the first thing that came to my mind was: I wonder if this opportunity could be a fun trip or Machado is simply another stuck up pro surfer?.

Panama is generally not really into fanaticism so I did not know what to expect from the country's reaction and anything from Rob, I did not know the man... As a surprise Panama's reaction to Rob visit was bigger than what I expected, there were tons of fans outside a bar waiting for the afro man...

Before meeting the drifter, I had gone on photo trips with pro surfers in California / Panama and the truth is among most pro surfers from Panama and USA, I would say 75% are cocky fuc@rs! Unless you have tits, ass, cunt or more fame than them, you will not go far on having fun surf tirp unless you like "licking ass". Like any cocky fuc3r, wanna be the best, score the best chicks, eat the best meals, surf better than anyone, look better and simply live a competitive day by day. So, chances to hang out with a cocky spoiled surfer were now there and that's something I could simply give up on regardless of how famous the person is. Stuck up people simply SUCK! I try to see everyone at the same level and until I met Rob, I could not expect anything.

As soon as I met the drifter, I noticed he was a very mellow, humble, sort of careless person. It reminded me of the few times I have been able to share with Tom Curren who spends time in Panama every now and then. Not the classic crazy energetic demanding cocky rock star selfish surfer. He seemed in peace but I also questioned many things about the projected life of a "famous" individual. Regardless of his past, surf experiences, fame, fortune, I was wondering if he could enjoy being in "The bushes of Panama", away from the surf industry I got to learn about in California... questioning if having a camera taking shots of him eating, sleeping, farting or what so ever could create a bad experience on his Panama trip. Now, was this his vacation or a formal shoot? I never got to know and don't really care at this point... It seemed like he is used to cameras, but the truth is... You cant really tell...

After personally dating a famous person in the past, I realized that the famous person's mind gets in a "fame mode" where you involuntarily project something else from the truth. Its understandable when you make a living off your face and actions. People tend to think they know you and expect many things about you. If you don't project what they expect, your image will go down and you might end up loosing "the image".

Since I am not a professional photographer and did not have a compromise to shoot, I kept asking my self, if it was even worth to shoot every second of "The Drifter's" life? Every shot I ever take of what photographers call "Life Style" it feel like I am invading someones "life". For such reason most of my shots are from the water and simply live the "life style" of floating in the water.

After spending some hours hanging with Rob Machado, I realized that he might have absorbed the life style of fame or became mature about the "be natural look". Also imagined that at this point he might have met "too many people" and have gotten "too many shots" to really worry about "shots" or "people". Seems like he carries a natural personal life, keeps him self real by staying in the ocean, traveling, playing music and meeting cultures where "Machado" and "Surf" are the size of a "soccer ball".

In general we had a great time, the crew of local people involved, Jota (Hurley Rep), Guille (Producer), Pedro (Film Maker) and Chino (Professional Kook and Pimp) was great! I got to see some of the best surfing I have seen regardless of the waves being terrible and small. Rob was surfing on a 5.4 fish with barely any rocker and some type of concave in the middle rocker. The drifter passed the sections and popped them turns. For me was very hard to be in the right spots to get quality shots, the drifter moves fast from peak to peak and surf fast from section to section making it hard for me to position my self on a very irregular sand bar. I could imagine being in a heat with Rob, It would be like playing Poker... Strait confident happy face and putting all the pressure in the world... We got to share some Rob Machado music which for the most part was mellow mood music, drinks / food was shared and a fun time with the drifter was accomplished... Keep drifting Roberto!

Here is a video directed by Guille and some of my shots of Rob Machado the Drifter...

TRIP SHOTS

SEQUENCE FRONT SIDE SNAP

SEQUENCE BACK SIDE SNAP

BACK SIDE SNAP 2

Bocas del Toro Surf 2010

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:35:48 PST

This time was a quick call from wing man Felipe "Elixir" Arias who told me we got a ride on a plane to bocas. I oviously said, fu@#R lets do it! The swell indicated some size on the net 4-7 ft. However, this never really happened! poopsie! some times, no good light, some times the light was good but the tide was too hight so the barrels were not opening right but right now it seems like things are getting better. I will extend my trip for 1 more day! Here is a slide of what went on... Still looking for a specific shot I have not gotten... I might have had too many expectations about the swell...

Here are some words about EXPECTATIONS:

"When you are attached to an outcome, you expect things to happen at a certain time in a certain way. But when it does not happen at the expected time or in the expected manner, then what results is a feeling of fear. Having expectations about how your desires should manifest will produce negative feelings when your expectations are not met. That is why it is better to act on your intention without expectations about the when and how it manifests"

Panama Surf Spot with Chris Culpen

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:36:22 PST

Last week was one of those weeks when you just want to snap out of "real time reality". I cannot say that reality for me is mostly bad cuz its not, its usually pretty dam good! However, looking at news about Haiti, checking out a new website "vbs.tv" on Liberia's reality, going thru some mayor personal changes, I desperately started looking for a surfer to shoot on a now spontaneous surf trip. I just can't shoot the birds and fish around me if I took off on my own, there is no one there!

As I drove that desperate day around the city, I decided to stop by my shaper friend Juan Jimene's surf shop "www.BoaSurfBoards.com". A guy I met before new year pops up from Juan's shop. Chris Culpen who now helps out Juan on surf board manufacturing was happy to leave the city and ended up coming along for a short escape to paradise. Once there we had a day of choppy surf and the followed to a perfect 3-4 ft session along with Fello a local surfer from the area and friend.

Within the trip I learned that Cris had been ripping professionally since the 80's, manufacturing boards with Tim Patterson, Matt Biolos and sure has not forgotten how to surf. A funny character who can still try some flips on a surf board and me a young white indian from the Latin American bushes showed him some traditional meals in one of the paradises of this world. Rice, Lentils, Fish and Salad for $2.50, no cell phone signal, and empty waves, what else do you need when you have perfect uncrowded surf and all mentioned above?

Here are a few shots of the relaxing trip:

Surf Snap

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:36:50 PST

The surf snap is one of the basic moves in the sport of surfing. Once you have managed to paddle / drop with confidence, rip with enough speed to make smooth turns, it is most likely that you will start trying to hit the lip or "tap that sh@T!".

One of the tips I can offer to people is to focus on going down the drop straight down, then turn while looking straight to the lip of the wave in a "U" motion, while turning make sure to keep your hands parallel to your "invisible line or turn". Some people make the mistake of looking at the spray they left loosing momentum, you wanna keep your eyes in track along with your head. (your eyes lead your head, your head leads your shoulders, your shoulders lead your body).

I actually learned to follow my eyes as a kid ridding BMX and eating shi@$ trying 360's on a rap. It wasn't until I learned to follow my eyes that I was able to pull them off!

Here is a sample of how to do a surf snap by Diego "Bobo" Salgado.

Surf Expo

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Thu, 10 Dec 2009 15:27:22 PST

My first surf expo pictures are here! finally done after 12 months of pushing this, my surfer friend and artist Jaime Noia pushed me into it by asking and then putting me on his event flyer. I had been saving surf photo files for over a year that said: "to print" and never did. The truth is... I thought it was going to be risky, Panamanians are spoiled and I contributed with that by giving pictures for free for over 1 year. I mean, I do this for fun and dont want to change it! However, it would be great if I could improve my equipment after this first camera and housing pays it self off with some sales...traveling also costs $...

The surf population here is small and this means only one thing, "the industry is small". Due to this matter, I did not expect a lot of people and I did it on a Monday! Mondays are the least important day of the week for an event or restaurant. I still did it "to do it"!

Who ever showed up, I thank! who ever did not, thanks! The Surf Expo 2009 was great, showing pictures of empty lineups, and mind filled with great memories was simply good!

Thanks to Ricardo J. Alfaro (Team Hurley) who printed my shots! Looking forward to do this
every year and ready to project my self for a Surf Expo 2010!

www.JaimeNoiaSurfArt.com

This one is for Friendship

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Thu, 12 Nov 2009 21:17:05 PST

Russell Mcclanan's best friend needs help, please watch the video. Help would be great for research.

Snap Sequence by Matt Pagan

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:40:32 PST

After meeting Brandon Bowden "Neighbor in Manhattan Beach" I was able to meet with some Body Glove people. I did not get to meet them directly, only Bryce White who was responsible for their water shot photography. Bryce is a good guy with a good vibe as well. Here is a sequence of a snap with style and a description of the performer Matt Pagan.

Matt said:

Stoked to see the Fidel made it up to Cali. Although it probably wasn't as good as Panama, this was a really fun day at home.

In the first couple shots of the sequence, I'm setting up my turn off the top. My bottom turn is low (could be lower too) and I am eyeing out the section I want to nail. I'm also setting up the turn to spray my good friend Alex Gray on the shoulder! As soon as I see the my section of the wave I want to hit, I pivot my shoulders and head to where I want my body to go. Where your head goes, your body will follow. So after you see the section you're about to hit, you're lower body will take the board there and as you torque your shoulders and head back toward the pit of the wave, it will create a whip and that's when water fliieesss and your speed will come out of the turn. So just remember to keep your weight on your back foot, have your hands relaxed so that they can react to whatever move you're doing and have fun!

Yew!

Aerial Sequence

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:41:22 PST

Once you jump into a new surf break its always a wonder to see whats the vibe of the people. As a photographer its always good to connect with people and surfers in general, without them cooperating, is harder to capture the moment. Here is a sequence of Jeff Pera's cooperation. Many thanks Jeff and keep the good vibes!

Barrel Sequence Shot

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:42:27 PST

After checking out some surf spots around L.A. I was able to find this area. Thanks to Holly Beck who touched base with me on Facebook. The first day I was around I did not make it (still did not have a wetsuit), a second time of invitation did not work either (I made it late!), guess it was not for me on this trip to meet with Holly but I did find a great spot with great people to take shots! and ended up with 3 wetsuites! Thanks Holly! I will post more shots soon!

Venice Beach Skatepark

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 15:43:24 PST

Here are two slide shows from my trip to California's Venice beach skate park.

Silverback Pictures

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Tue, 27 Oct 2009 17:16:28 PDT

Silverback is one of the bigwave surf spots in the Republic of Panama. It is unknown for many around the world and even Panamanians. Its a peak with not that long of a ride. However, it can give you a long adrenaline rush. Check Matt Archbold enjoying this LONG adrenaline ride. I will see if I find some Silverback pictures to post. None of this footage is mine. However, I think its good footage and good surf.

Mariato

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 16:37:11 PDT

Mariato is one of my favorite spots in the Republic of Panama. Why? Because people are clean, friendly, hardworking and humble. Once you are at mariato, there is always a good vibe. As a matter of fact, some villages like Malena are so into religion and being good people that there is no beer, cigarettes or human "auto clickiti" destructive products.

Last dry season I spent months out there working on my farm. I had a great experience exploring around other farms, view, beaches and actually found some really good surf breaks! According to my family's history, Mariato was a shrimp farm owned by a single family. Most people there are ex workers of this shrimp farms. Even before them, there were Spanish conquerors who had taken over on this place and thats why my great grandmother lived there. She had green eyes, white skin and a very refined face. People keep telling me that I am a "Gringo" or "European" but the truth is my roots are from Spain and the Mariato region.

It is cool to see picture of this place 70 years ago. I will make an effort to scan them and post them here. My grandmother's stories about this place are pretty good. She said she used to take a boat from Puerto Mutis in Santiago, passing by all those little Islands (Governadora, Cebaco, Isla Verde, etc) bordering by Cerro La Hoya, then passing by Cambutal, Venado and going back into Agua Dulce. Then she would jump on a horse and took 4 days to get to Panama City! its freaking crazy! She said she had the first car in town and her father used to charge 10 cents a ride!

Mariato will always be my favorite option to live outside Panama City, not just for its people, enviroment, ocean views but also for my roots! The most famous spot is playa mariato which is where Mrs. Martina, Luz Delia and YiYo live and where the surf is (This is for sale). If anyone interested I will let them know. Them three of them operate a fishing operation and distribution like most people around there. Among every single beach I have ever seen in the Republic of Panama, this region is the most hard core for fishing. These guys are true fishermen. When it comes down to fishing, these guys take off at 7 pm with single engine pangas, no radio, no GPS, no radar, no fish finder, no nothing, they just go! when they come back, they have all the fish in the world with or without waves!

I truly dont like taking shots of the playa Mariato surf break, the wave is too mellow for me. This is the type of wave you want to ride on a longboard if you suffer from arthritis. Its very soft and lack of power.

Hope you enjoyed the surf photos from mariato.

Santa Catalina Surf

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 15:18:39 PDT

Santa Catalina Surf in Panama could be one of the best waves in Central America and the world. The wave has power, it builds up quickly and has enough wall to fool even the best surfers. The wall is very long, it makes you think that it will close out but the truth is, is so perfect you will only experience a fast train down the line!

Among every single wave in Panama, the Santa Catalina surf experience is the most professional. At the same time, is the one the scares me the most when it comes down to take water shots. To start with, the surf break is a 20 min paddle with a surfboard to get to the peak. Without a surf board could be a 30 min swim. Once you are out there without anything to float on, it a bit sketchy.

As a retired surfer, I could say that the perspective of water movement is different than a water shot photographer's. When you take watershots you are mostly looking at the movement in rewind. Besides from this you worry about both "under currents and upper currents". Another interesting thing is, since you have to be in the impact zone to take the best shots you might find waves like Santa Catlina where the lip literally hits the rock directly underwater. There is no space to duck and not get pounded at certain tides. In some occasions, I have taken shots at low tide and have found my self at knee high dephts waiting to get hit by an 8 ft set on rocks. Its sketchy out there.

I always have good memories of this wave and not too good ones on the main land. Its a love and hate relationship about this place. Ever since I stepped in Catalina for the first time 9 years ago I found other people's problems. Seems like every single beachfront property owner in this place has problems among each other with the classic property ownership. Who owns this? and every single one goes, ME! Its enough material to write a good book.

My advise is to stay at "El Oasis Surf Camp" owned by great people and old friends David and Silvia. The service is great, the food is good, you are across a river from soap opera and in the middle of other surf spots. If you need to reserve the Oasis you can count on me and send me an email.

Leaving behind the drama, I will now post some NOT SO GOOD shots of this epic wave! I am still practicing to get "The Shots".

Hope you enjoyed the Santa Catalina Surfing Shots.

Pavones Surf Cr

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:06:12 PDT

Pavones Surf is one of the most epic in America. As a matter of fact is one of the longest lefts in Latin America and truly a surfer's dream. I had been there 10 years ago and one more time last year. It was a regular week for me, some work to be finished with Panama's tourism and then received a call from my friends letting me know that the swell of the year was going to hit. Stoked about it, I took a 4 hour bus ride to meet with some friends at Santiago and jump into the "smurf ride" to drive out to playa pavones in Costa Rica.

Before I keep writing more about my trip, it is important to note that playa pavones was once part of my native country "Panama". In 1921 there was a small battle "Coto War" in between Costa Rica and Panama. Hector Zuniga Mora was the leader of this war claiming the "real" limits in between Panama and Costa Rica. Apparently Panama had won the war but since Panama has been managed by the U.S. since the early 1900's, Mr. White "Banana Company owner" decided to mediate and stop the war giving the land to Costa Rica. He could do it because of personal corporate interests with the U.S government. Thank you Mr. White for giving away one of the most epic surf breaks in the Planet! Later on the famous Dan Fowlie purchased the area and started developing it! Here is a cool video of this epic spot.

Ok, keeping up with the trip. We got there on a Friday night and looked for some hotels in Pavones. Since it was the swell of the year, everything was full. We found some pavones lodging at $10 per head a night. It was not bad but when you are done with a 5 hour surf session under the sunny days and long rides you wanna have the bathroom to your self / shower for hours to cool off. Unfortunately we were sharing 1 bathroom / 1 toilet among 5 rooms!

On Saturday, waves were picking up, 6ft to 8ft sets. The Pavones point was grinding at low tide, long long long lefts and plenty of happy people. It was time for me to measure where and how to get into this break and take some pictures of Pavones. The wave is so long that it was hard to decide where to start. I tried the inside area at first but the current was strong and in not time I was all the way in the bay. Walked out again and went as far as I could and just fought the current for hours and hours waiting for people to start creating magic. Most people were truly just racing the sections, little tricks and turns but in the end everything worked out, did therapy for my broken back and took some fun pavones pictures this day. Eventually I met cool people from different regions of the world (Italy, Israel, Hawaii and US). It is important to mention that 90% of the people I met there flew into Panama and then headed out to Pavones. They mentioned that its cheaper to fly into Panama than Costa Rica and that it takes less time in better roads to drive from Panama than Costa Rica. I will post a surf package (Chiriqui Panama / Pavones) soon on my new website www.panamatravelagent.blogspot.com.

First bus out to Santiago

Little girl impressed by Rhino giving birth!

Guy making sure the Nitro is in correctly.

Felipe "Elixir" Arias, rocks star from (Los Flasheros)

Robert and I

Street to the Break from Lodging

The Line Up

This dude was going so fast he almost fly off

American who has been living here for 16 years I hear.

My new ripper friend Ingrid "Dean's Wife" from Hawaii

The coolest and most functional tent setup ever seen!

This is Mateo's car, pure style! he is also a photographer, dude if you see this, please send me your contact, I lost the paper where I wrote this, e mail me (fidelp11@gmail.com).

My new friend Dean "Ingrid's Husband" ripping

Breakfast of Champions!

The soccer field / Helipad

Lodging in Pavones

The Pizzeria at Pavones

A hotel I will be using on my 2010 packages to Pavones

If any thing you wanna write send to fidelp11@gmail.com

Endless Summer Panama

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:07:44 PDT

Endless Summer Panama is what I have recently have been experiencing on this small region of the planet. Im sure a lot of people ask them selves, where the hell is Panama? or they might think of Panama as an indian tribe area with "The Panama Canal". I cannot generalize about this but what I can really assure is that Panama has an Endless summer.

I will now give you reasons off top of my mind why:

1) Panama has 50% sun 50% rain year round. December to March is full sun all day! Offshore too all day.

2) Panama is a 360 day vacation, there is surf and parties every day of the year. And if there there is non I could make a few quick calls and arrange one for you (I dont party much).

3) Panama has the shape of an "S" so there is swell exposure on every direction of your compass.

4) There are two oceans at 1 hour away from each other so if there is no swell on the Pacific then you go to the Atlantic.

5) If it rains it will be for not more than 5 hours. Thank god for 12 hours of sun! rain will not kill you here "only if thunders" and after its gone its only oil to be ridden.

There are many other reasons why this country feels like summer year round, cops are flexible if you speed or flexible in general, you are free to do anything you want really, outside of the city there is not even cellphone signal so once you are out of the city you might find your self like back in the days, no internet, no blackberry or I phone so check the swell forecast quickly and go enjoy the endless summer panama offers. Its year rounds surf in warm water waves of all types. Here is a flash gallery for you guys to enjoy of the past year traveling around Panama. These are only Panamanian people and spots in exeption of my loving mermaid from Kauai who is always a pleasure to have around.

Panama Surf Travel - Playon 2009

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:08:39 PDT

A few weeks back I got a call from Mr. Peter Novey from EL REVOLVER suggested we took a trip to a place where surf dreams can come true. What am I talking about? crystal clear barrels, no one out, golden sand, no one out, warm water, no one out, gated piece of land, no one out...

We showed up, scored, did it again every weekend for a month and all of a sudden thanks to facebook, we found a crowd, yes, I Fu!#R up! Social media can make this happen but the truth is, the gated property was opened as there is a house being built so they need trucks to go in and out as well as giving the opportunity for others to do the same. Oh well... Life is like a box of chocolate!

After a short drive on the new corridor we got to the spot and went driectly to the point, surf, shoot some photos and enjoy the day. Not much to say about this spot, somewhere in this blog you will find some old stuff from 2007. Just look for Playon Panama surf spot.

Rudy Waller (Pro Freestyle Motocross)

Surf Travel Panama

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:09:25 PDT

When it comes down to think about the best surf travel destinations in the world, most people will immediately think "Fiji, Tavarua, Indo, Australia, Hawaii, etc". Recently I had the pleasure to receive the visit of my loving Hawaiian mermaid who motivated me to take off on the road saying, "we are going places!" and show her a bit about my beautiful country. My intentions were to equivalently show that some parts of Panama are as beautiful as she is and that there was no need to go to any Fiji, Tavarua, etc at the moment. We totally scored!

I had planned to explore this remote region in the NE of Panama "San Blas Panama Surf" a few years back, but the truth is, Panama has great surf year round so why waste time when there is a swell? We can still get to uncrowded spots at 1 hour from home. Growing up in the central Northern coast "Colon" I expected to find swell in the NE of that same coast. However, it was expensive to fly out, is far by land, roads were and still are in bad conditions, drug traffic and people said "its sharky out there". It seems like it could be, the place is by the continental shelf but, every ocean has sharks right? Bocas del Toro is out there with some sharks’ right? Drug traffic is not looking for you, they are looking to get from point A to point B, and offroading can be fun after 3 cases of beer right? Somehow I ended up with maritime charts from the 60's in 2006 and while sending a fax "doing N2 in the toilet" I started to analyze the chart around that region, looking at reefs, depths, directions and it all made sense.

For many Panamanians was and still hard to believe because of onshore winds, but the truth is, the intensity of swell can always "reach around" and get good winds. Months ago after a night of partying I decided to knock on some friends windows and head out to check it out without thinking much "a few beers on me to be honest", we found the treasure! I had been holding my self from posting this but the truth is... its not easy to find this spot when you have over 300 islands in San Blas, there are no outboad engines to take you on a regular basis and you have to paddle about 40 minutes to get there from shore.

This last trip was very special to share with my two old friends Sasha (the russian), Jay (the salad tosser) and my loving mermaid Amie Gaines. We had a great camping trip and Pocahontas canoe ride around paradise.

Here are some shots of our own surf travel panama dream.

Yes, with beers in our hands!
Beer run...
The main ride the drops you in no where.
Getting the fire ready, thank me salad tossers for the wood!
Amie's new friend! Auuu Auuuu!!!!
Tossers...
Waking up!

New Day in Paradise!

Getting our ride ready!

Bottled Water, Snorkeling gear, mermaid and my friend's beat up boards! we are ready...

15 min break for the paddlers, thanks guys, cayuco masters!
"2 paddles, 2 cayuco masters, 1 bailer and me feeling like pocahontas"

The Treasure

Mermaid Drop

Mermaid Duck Dive

Humm...

Salad Snap!

Wave, Snorkel, Board, Paddle... hum?

Jay looking for the "Tiburon Salchicha" anchor got stuck...

Is this a mermaid or what?
'
Doing what he does best! M.P.L "Making People Laugh"

The end of the surf travel Panama.

Note: If anyone is intersted to take a profesional tour to this new break please visit

http://www.PanamaSanBlas.blogspot.com or write me to fidelp11@gmail.com

Panama Surf Island - Surf en Panama

noreply@blogger.com (Fidel Ponce) — Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:15:08 PDT

As usual, it takes me quite a while to find time to write on this Panama Surf Blog. Now, its time to put a new place, a "Panama Surf Island" on the site. It will soon be my secret future home and one of the best places to surf in this planet. If you are hardcore enough I can say, considerably heavy, crystal clear water, white sand beach, heave barrels, lots of fish, ecology and wild life! I think it could be Hawaii 30 years ago, that's why I don't want to burn it... It will happen little by little but the group of property owners in this area (including me) are all about conservation and educating people on it... as one of the owners... I can say... "look at google earth and check it out for your self, the world is dry, there is barely any green to be seen on this google earth tool".

The Panama Surf Island is located at 1 hour charter flight and near the continental drop off. You can see from primary forests based on huge trees that are rare to see, black panthers, monkeys, huge snakes, sharks, manta rays and more! everything mentioned here is not small, its actually huge in size and old in age.

I keep going every weekend! this trip I was with a bunch of fun mostly non surfer people, Panamanian rock star friends of mine and a pro skater friend of mine (Joe Pepper or Mr. Hams) from NY! so basically if you are not famous dont even try to find me! (JUST A JOKE).

The Feeling:

I consider to know what is a "steep drop" growing on the Atlantic coast of Panama (18 years), this drop is steep! trust me, you have this little current that pushes you towards back door of the peak. The back wash tends to make this current stronger as the tide goes up and gets higher on the volcanic rock formation. Its actually been the biggest, widest barrels I have ever experienced through Central American Surf. The good part is that this sweet secret place has no sections, once you drop, you bottom, you hold tight and you will be riding a fairly long barrel in perfect private panama surf at a fast pace. The last section is the driest spot where the barrel really sucks in so hold tight to those last 16 inches of rail / exit rocker... puch the inner rail all the way so your rail doesn't suck in and die! If you have enough adrenaline left you can always make a huge round house or make a last section aerial! today my back is broken but if I had it I would still go for it, umm sad eh??? not really, life is long, always new things come out! who ever reads this, drink water, stretch and don't stress too much in order to keep you back strait. Photography is making me happy so its all good!

PS: if you ever make it please take your trash with you (cans, glass, etc) if it burns, put it on the metal tank I have on the farm, this is totally virgin and takes a little bit of effort but worth to preserve!

Here are a few shots of my future secret home location;

The perimeter

Mr. 100 fires (Cien Fuegos), Pepe Calavera and friends from Panama (Rock Stars)

Mr. Santiago "Angerri" Cambefort from Panama (Rock Star)

Panawaii (my backyard)

Diego "Duro" Salgado