PaprikaTown

Post Paprika Town

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Sun, 20 Oct 2013 11:57:00 +0000

Yes, I can now officially report that Paprika Town is in abeyance.

No more regular blog reports should be expected. Then again, as life is unpredictable, I might still add to these pages at any time if events or inspiration stir the creative will.

Paprika Town meanwhile will remain online. I hope it continues to provide some interest, help and inspiration of its own to anyone visiting or planning to stay in the fascinating and beautiful city of Budapest.

Crowds flood Danube as water rises

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Sat, 15 Jun 2013 17:44:00 +0000

The floods that hit Budapest in early June have been an interesting experience. I would like to have reported from the front line - at the flood defences - but due to Hungarian bureaucracy, my application to be a volunteer somehow didn't succeed. So I have been an observer.

A city under flood might be similar to a city under siege. There is tension and anxiety, but also a sense of resignation. Nature cannot be fought, it can only be managed. And this flood didn't arrive as a rushing torrent, but as a steady, irresistible rise in the levels of the Danube, until it finally overreached its banks.

The river rose by one-third of its normal height. The corniche roads on both sides of the river disappeared under water. Margit Island, the large r&r islet in the middle of the river, was evacuated and closed down. One metro station was abandoned, and traffic and public road transport was redirected. The giant parliament building that faces the river became a moated palace, fronted by water at its foundations.

Photos: Sandra Király and TheDaily.hu
The magnificently sweeping Danube is undoubtedly at the heart of this city. Its reliable presence, whether in sight or not, is a constant for Budapest life. When it floods, it is like an ailment that afflicts the city. There is awareness, concern and assistance. Yet, no panic. Ultimately, it feels as if the Danube knows best how to deal with its own condition. Mere mortals can only help in limited ways, by channelling its flow and sandbagging higher levels where the Danube really doesn't want to go. A flood, it seems, is just another manifestation of the organic nature of this city.

Indeed, for people at large, including the many tourists now in Budapest, the flooding Danube became the latest and most popular public attraction. People flocked down to its banks, or its new shorelines, just to stand, watch and take photos of the spectacle. Welcome blue skies and hot temperatures on Sunday, when the flood was near its peak, drew heavy crowds keen to witness a Danube that had gained a third in width, and photograph ramparts, road signs and bus shelters that now peeked unnaturally above the flood.

Further out from the metropolitan city, concern for property, and indeed life, was greater. The Romai district, in north-west Budapest, is a frequent victim of even minor floods and sand-bagging volunteers were out in force to protect the area. Further north still, the beautiful town of Szentendre, and other towns and villages near the Danube bend, drew hundreds of volunteers as well as disaster professionals to help erect flood defences.

The waters will take some time to subside and will undoubtedly leave some chaos in their wake. But Budapest seems to have an army of clean-up workers, generally taken from the unemployed, to address such situations.

Much of Budapest's beauty is the result of human hand – but it is a very naturalistic hand, submissive to the city's organic nature. Budapest is quite simply an elemental city. And whatever the elements throw, it continues to impress as the most unique and special place on the Danube.

Good vibrations?

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Fri, 03 May 2013 09:32:00 +0000

I have always found it a little dispiriting to follow a link to a blog only to find the blog discontinued. There must be – a very big number – of abandoned blogs floating in cyberspace: the detritus of past creative efforts that once fulfilled a role but now simply remain adrift as digital hazards to future cyber-surfers.

This blog has had no entries for a few months because I have been distracted by some health issues. However, if PaprikaTown should end then I am resolved there will be a message flagging up the fact. That, after all, is simple courtesy.

And speaking of courtesy reminds me of the small debate raised by the recent republishing of my post "What's special about Hungary?". Comments seem evenly divided over my suggestion that Hungarians are unusually polite. Views range from broad agreement to a belief that I must be on drugs (only vitamins, actually).

Well, my Budapest wanderings on the hot May Day holiday do support both points of view. Being vehemently abused by a very large Hungarian family man for obstructing his photos of noisy, circulating racing vehicles (at Széchenyi Bridge), was unpleasant. Stepping two paces forward would have solved his problem, but it seemed he had claimed his Hungarian space.

Later, I found myself on a hillside on Buda for a free outdoor concert. A tall sound and light stage at the bottom of Tabán hill had drawn thousands to stand, sit or lie on the large grassy hill, covering nearly every square metre. The music was typical Hungarian jazz-rock. The audience was peaceful, co-operative and harmonious, even with flowing beer. All that was missing was flowers in the hair!

I've never said Hungary is perfect. But there does exist plenty of goodwill.

Back to the future

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Fri, 14 Dec 2012 12:12:00 +0000

If you're a follower of an Englishman in Budapest, I'm sure you'll be pleased to know that the flat problem is now solved.

Surprisingly, it's back to V district, with a TOP FLOOR flat near Ferenciek tere.

Although on paper more expensive than planned, I'm hoping the overall deal will prove cost effective. The common cost – paid in addition to rent – is, in this case, inclusive of all heating and water bills.

Heating through winter can be a major expense, especially for an idle type like me. One monthly gas bill at my first 80sqm flat reached over 40000 forint.

My new establishment offers 'house heating', which means one central boiler, and costs divided between tenants. Since heating is usually an additional personal expense, being included in the common cost makes the largish common cost effectively very low. That, at least, is the way I like to view it.

Of course, not all is rosy. Is it ever? Being on the top floor means boiled water has a long way to travel. I've checked with my neighbour and apparently we up here are less well served than our neighbours below. On the ground floor they complain of suffocating heat. Up here we experience a healthier regime that would leave most Spartans in bliss.

I exaggerate perhaps, but I've been over this territory before. Living room and bedroom reach 20C. But, thankfully, bathroom has a super-efficient radiator that warms it to 25C!

The local area off Ferenciek tere, partly pedestrianised, is elegant, intellectual (several university buildings), and almost cloister-like in some streets, especially at night. The famously tourist-trapping Váci ut is also not far away.

Several pedestrian streets leading to Váci have laid red carpet down their full length. Not sure if this is to protect from ice or is just a signal: walk this way for Santa's over-priced grotto!

But, as usual, the Christmas lights and decorations in Budapest are delightful and always warm the heart, even as fingers freeze when taking photos!

Find help in Budapest

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Tue, 30 Oct 2012 01:38:00 +0000

I've been asked to write about help organisations for those new to Budapest.

There's nothing very original about this brief list. But these are organisations that I've found helpful.

Let's start with expat-blog.

Expat-blog.com is a global website that exists entirely online. It's function is to provide geographically local forums – by expats for expats – covering expat locations throughout the world.

In the case of Hungary there is both a Hungary site and a Budapest site, but the two tend to cross-pollinate.

For me, the most useful feature is the active forums, where almost any question on Hungary can be asked. Answers come from a reliable backbone of voluntary, long-term, expat and Hungarian contributors, plus anyone else who wants to express a view. Local forums are also available in a choice of user languages.

If you want cost of living info, tips on dealing with bureaucracy, how to access tradespeople, where to buy stuff, or you just want to find sociable friends, the forums at expat-blog could be a good start.

The site is especially useful when planning a stay or move to Hungary. Get in your questions before you go! Expat-blog also carries classifieds and a business directory and gives a heads-up to local expat blogs.

Next up, Expatshungary.com. Run by Stuart, an English guy who has lived and worked in Budapest for – a longish time, expatshungary covers a lot of bases offering personal technical advice online to those planning to relocate, plus lots of discounts on an ever-widening range of local company products and services to those who have already arrived. The website also carries streaming Hungarian news, articles on issues of local interest, and a classifieds section.

Expatshungary also organises occasional, well-attended social gatherings at suitable bar/restaurant settings. And Stuart is involved as well in running a Friday night pub club in Budapest, The Club, which can always be relied on for meeting regulars.

Internations.org is another global website for expats organised through local bases. In this case, the prime objective is to bring people together in person, with monthly gatherings at (usually) glittering wine bar/restaurant venues. In Budapest, these events are always well attended, drawing around 150 guests, and you should expect to meet plenty of people working for international companies, or trying to run their own businesses, who've polished up their shoes for an evening of friendly social engagement.

Xpatloop.com is mainly an online media operation. The website carries a long menu that categories almost every kind of information topic you might need for daily life in Budapest. Beyond the main news headlines, there is information on cinema, clubs, bars, restaurants, music, events, culture, concerts, shopping, business, travel, sport, weather and a long list of service companies. The website is also associated with the Budapest Sun newspaper.

As in any capital city, there are of course clubs and meeting groups – including those organised by expats – to satisfy all variety of personal interests. These are best discovered for oneself. But I will mention two organisations that offer entertainment and social engagement.

BabyBlueBanana brings stand-up comics to Budapest for regular comedy evenings, organises weekly pub quizzes at the popular Caledonia pub and also hosts speed-dating nights!

The Budapest Hash House Harriers, on the other hand, is a small self-organised group manifested out of a global organisation begun in Kuala Lumpur 74 years ago which now has similar groups in 185 countries.

Nominally a cross-country running group, following a hare and hounds trail principle, the main purpose of The Hash is to provide social activity (exercise) while exploring the local environment. My one experience so far involved an initial tram ride, casual walking, some steep Buda hills, and at least four refreshment stops: at a pub, an outdoor food festival, an alfresco restaurant and a champagne distillery on open day. Did I say the purpose was exercise? The Budapest club motto "A drinking club with a running problem" may describe it better!

The above are just a few favourite things that make sure you are never lost in Budapest. But if you plan to visit soon please note: warm summery October has just flipped into Budapest winter with temperatures plummeting to 0 C. Fortunately, we have no hurricanes!

What is Hungarian?

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Sun, 05 Aug 2012 21:23:00 +0000

Mi a magyar? That's the question asked by a new exhibition at the impressively neo-classical Kunsthalle building on Budapest's Heroes' Square.

The exhibition title suggests uncertainty, doubt, even angst about the national identity.

It's not unusual for most countries to question their identity at some time in their history. And today's pace of change threatens traditional ideas and values everywhere.

But here in Hungary, it is the sort of question one feels the country has been asking itself for centuries. And, yet, it has still to come up with an answer.

The Kunsthalle (Műcsarnok in Hungarian) is Budapest's centre for the contemporary arts. The exhibition therefore is imaginative, amusing and confusing. Which is what you expect a contemporary art exhibition to be.

But does it answer the big question it poses?

Well... no. But, as the curators point out on the many editorial boards through the exhibition, the aim is not to clearly identify Hungary's identity but to suggest its various possibilities.

In a country where history – of conquest and struggle – remains so important for about half the population, even a contemporary exhibition cannot avoid it. Thus, a life-size war-horse with dismounted, well-armed, Mongol (or is he Magyar?) rider is a pointed reminder. As too is a space containing monitors showing nothing but unexploded mortar bombs.

In another walk-through space, semi-darkness is compounded by a thick, smoky mist, illuminated by sharp laser beams. Modernity co-existing with Hungary's foggy past? Is it futuristic, or just mystically Transylvanian?

One room in the exhibition simply contains published quotations on the nature of Hungary. This surely could provide some answers to the exhibition's big question. But as the quotes are all in Hungarian, I had difficulty drawing conclusions. However, reading between the lines with my scant Magyarül, statements of what makes Hungary special – language, culture, politics – still failed to provide anything singular and concrete to hang a pelisse* upon.

One witty exhibit, juxtaposing traditional with contemporary pleasures, has a shot of palinka in a small glass beside two 'lines' of finely ground red powder – which is, of course, paprika.

Further comment reflecting divisions in Hungarian society places a delicate plaster of Paris model of Hungary's parliament on a table, with a noisy vibrating generator beneath. The building constantly shakes and appears to be slowly splitting apart.

Duality, indeed, is a theme that apparently runs through the exhibition. Not simply to offer the viewer alternatives; but because honouring the past, while facing the challenges of the present, seems very much the nature of Hungary today.

Political ideas must lie close to the heart of any current debate on national identity. And the conflict over political directions that divides Hungarians is illustrated by an exhibit showing two completely identical portraits of a busy middle-aged gentleman, one is named 'the traditionalist' and the other 'the liberal' (or similar words).

For me, summing up an identity for Hungary is probably an impossible task. Hungary is something you feel but can hardly express. As the exhibition suggests, there are many characteristics, but it is hard to shape them into a singular direction or purpose.

Politicians and philosophers try to define the country – in terms of its past, its future potential, or both. But Hungary just continues to be what it is: a blend of past, present and indeterminate future that stubbornly, yet proudly, stays an enigma to most.

* Pelisse – originally a short, fur-lined jacket hung over the left shoulder and first adopted by Hungarian cavalry huszars in the 17th century to protect from sword cuts.

A walk on the wild side

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Sun, 29 Jul 2012 12:34:00 +0000

An unpretentious lunch outside Anna's Cafe on Fovam tér is one good way to watch incoming tourists as they prepare to wend their way up the tourist-trapping Váci ut shopping street.

With luck, you may also be able to listen to, or join in, the conversations of others exchanging information about their travels – in the international language of communication, English.

This is what I did on Saturday, anyway. And, having enjoyed a good Magyar brunch and long beer in the umbrella-shaded heat, a long walk seemed to beckon so I headed for the Green Bridge.

Crossing the Danube on foot, or by vehicle for that matter, always expands the mind into the scale and place of Budapest, set across one of Europe's most important waterways, yet a city sufficient unto itself for a lifetime's adventure.

On the Buda side, the immediate attraction is the Gellert Hotel. But I felt like experiencing an elevated perspective, which meant trekking along the waterfront, beside the beach-front-like greenclad exposed rock-face of the Gellert Hills, and up to the next bridge, Erzsébet híd.

There one finds the inviting prospect of a series of medieval-looking grey stone-walled paths leading up the hills. These paths seem to wend their way in every direction, but always upward (if you're headed that way) and overshadowed by the thick, cooling bowers of trees and bushes that cover the hillside.

At the top, I was on Orom utca, a street that exemplifies the variety and indulgence that wealth can create in terms of Buda residential architecture. Its large, tall buildings – ranging from Art Nouveau to Art Deco, blends of the two, and occasional mini-Palladian style – must provide stunning views from the upper floors onto the vista of the city below.

To the right is a green park in which I discovered the Philosopher's Garden – a recent addition, which places statues of spiritual figures through the ages in a meditative circle that successfully (I think) offers the opportunity to calm the mind.

At the front of the park, a viewing balustrade and benches offer yet another incredible aerial view of Budapest, the river, Pest city and the skyline. Being a vertigo-sufferer, I had to hold onto the bench to avoid intimations that I was capable of flight (that's how it affects me, anyway).

Walking back down from here the parkland becomes a wide open, sculptured hilly space, with steps. Surrounded by verdant green, with views of the Castle to the left, the river and bridges ahead, and the proud structures of Pest beyond, makes one appreciate the good fortune of being in such a place as Budapest.

But thirst can overcome even the most profound musings. So, more walking – past the sadly neglected (but soon to be revived) Castle Bazaar promenade, onto a tram at Clark tér, off the tram at Bethany tér, and across the road to another favourite outdoor spot, Angelika Cafe. Here to watch the world go by with, in hand, a decent, long and fruity iced cocktail.

Getting back to my new home (see earlier posts) is not so difficult. Budapest has public transport sewn-up – they just need to find a way to make it pay! Five stops, and one change of train, and the metro takes me to Lehel tér, not far from my new (but probably temporary) abode.

DeFLATion

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Thu, 26 Jul 2012 09:24:00 +0000

Followers may have begun to wonder about the results of my personally-announced flat move.

The reason I've delayed writing about the outcome is that I'm still wondering about it myself.

I have moved to a one-bedroom flat in XIII district. In doing so, I have saved 27% on my main rental costs (the rent plus Hungary's ubiquitous 'common charge').

The flat is only 16% smaller than my previous flat. And whereas my last was described as two-room (living room and bedroom), this flat effectively has three. The wide access hall, fitted with table and chairs, becomes a dining room of reasonable size.

There are windows at either end of the flat, making it bright and airy. And most of the doors are panelled with light-transmitting glass.

There is also a private balcony – or as the estate agent preferred 'terrace with roof' – measuring 13 x 4 feet, and displaying several pot plants for which I have responsibility.

So why do I feel I don't really like the place?

I guess this is where I have to admit to my secret elitist credentials.

This spot is airy and bright, but it does feel distanced from the architectural beauty, history, heritage and buzz that represents the downtown inner city.

From this flat's rear windows I can view a giant, featureless building of concrete and glass. From the front terrace, three magnificently tall trees only partly obscure the semi-derelict facia of the residential block opposite.

My location is officially in Újlipótváros, an area described as "a popular middle-class/intellectual residential district".

But after one week, I began to think I'd inadvertently located myself to the heart of Angyalföld, an area just to the north, once pointedly noted for not participating in the 1956 anti-Soviet revolution.

(Angyalföld was once an intensely working-class area, where hundreds of engineering and manufacturing industries developed up to the 1980s, with historically cramped and unhygienic living conditions for its thousands of workers. Today's concrete housing estates were built between 1970 and 1985, and much of the industrial activity is replaced by service centres and offices.)

However, I have now examined my local area more thoroughly. And my conclusion is that I've simply picked the wrong place on the wrong street.

Nearby residential Hegedűs Gyula street certainly does justify the middle-class label. And surrounding streets are equally architecturally and environmentally satisfying to my elitist mind.

Yet my present location would still be acceptable if it wasn't for one other, overriding, factor: THE SIZE TWELVE FEET OF THE OVERWEIGHT MAN WHO LIVES WITH HIS FAMILY IN THE FLAT ABOVE.

I have a psychological issue with "neighbour noise". I always have. And there's no escaping it. Despite clear assurances from my new landlady that 'above' was noise-free, I immediately found I was living under a very frequently and heavily trodden ceiling.

So I'm faced with a dilemma – whether or not to move on. I certainly don't look forward to renewing my acquaintance with the local estate agent fraternity. But I have begun to examine the alternative possibilities online.

Moving home is a stressful time. Hopefully, I can resolve this issue. Then PaprikaTown can focus on the real purpose of Budapest: having fun!

Changing places

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Thu, 07 Jun 2012 19:32:00 +0000

The summer heat – the kind that lingers long... pervades walls, buildings, streets, vegetation and the air... makes evenings out seem endless... turns a summer shower humid... and brings the breadth of a city close together in shared sensual warmth – feels like it may have finally arrived.

The weather at the beginning of this June has seen plenty of rain. And if memory serves, it was much the same last year. But, out of the long bookend seasons of summer and winter, weather passes quickly here and sun generally replaces rain in a matter of hours.

My stay in Budapest has now lasted one year. I've enjoyed the comfort of renting a family-style home, with a friendly and reliable owner, giving me a sense of calm and security in a country where, still, I can hardly speak any sensible native words.

But all things must pass. I concluded a few months ago that I really should start to consider my long-term finances. The option in this case being to look for a cheaper rent. And now the reality of that decision has materialised. My landlady has found a new tenant – and I must find a new flat.

I've received so many warnings of where not to go – Buda is boring, VIII district is risky, downtown is noisy – that my options seem small. Although I don't take these comments too seriously, somewhere not too far away, such as XIII district, seems the best option, provided I can find a place that suits.

What I feel I shall be giving up is a) culture – V is a middle-class district and my adopted street is home to the wealthiest antiques shops and art galleries in the city – and b) space, which includes the stupendous wide-open vista view. But, accepting I must find a smaller flat, the other factors can be replaced, they will simply be different.

Budapest offers great variety and each location has a special ethnic character of its own. So my search is on for somewhere inspiring and different – or just kind to the wallet!

May's Longest Day

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Thu, 03 May 2012 23:25:00 +0000

If you think May Day in central Europe is a celebration of work – think again.

With May 1st falling on a Tuesday, this unusual weekend began Friday evening and didn't end until Wednesday am.

I expect the extra Monday will be accounted as a "bridge" holiday, which usually requires a Saturday to be worked the following weekend.

Anyway, now the tourists are here, the atmosphere over four days of non-work became one of a long summer holiday – aided by weather reaching 32C.

I decided to try to fulfil an ambition – to get to the top of János Hill and view Buda and Pest from the city's highest landmark.

It takes a bus ride to get up to the general area. But, as you see from the photo, I seemed to alight at a point rather distant from my objective. I expected to find a cogwheel railway – as advertised – to the top of János Hill, but others getting off the bus denied any such thing existed.

'You'll have to walk a long way in that direction,' they said. So I contented myself with a walk through the area – Normafa – where I was.

If you know, and like, London's Hampstead Heath then you will appreciate the Buda Hills. The environment is similar – only bigger. In fact, it is remarkable how apparently impenetrable green-clad mountains turn into perfectly walkable woods and grass-scapes when you're there.

And, like Hampstead Heath, the area was well-populated by walkers, sun-worshippers and families enjoying the weather, plus the occasional organic play areas for small kids and the opportunity for adult kids to set-up barbecues without breaking bye-laws.

On May Day itself, central Pest turned into a sponsored racetrack. There were sports racing cars, formula one cars – and Jenson Button. I fancy Button had the better view of proceedings. With roads cleared, he stormed in his F1 between Parliament and Pest's ring road with a terminating straight up Alkotmany utca, which opens onto the vista of Parliament Square.

Although little could actually be seen, a memento remains in my ears and across the zebra crossing where Button performed his wheelies!

Celebrating 100-yr-old buildings

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 02:43:00 +0000

Visiting some of the locations in Budapest's 100-year-old buildings event, on Sunday, inspired me to look again – but more intently – at the architectural environment in which I daily walk.

It is only now I realise that much of the remarkable architecture that abounds in Budapest (beyond the considerable neo-classical) is a product of the Art Nouveau movement, which flourished in Europe around the turn of the 19th century.

On the one hand, I am disappointed to learn that Budapest's style is not entirely unique. On the other hand, the Hungarian manifestation of the movement is, indeed, wholly original. It owes its form as much – or rather more – to indigenous cultural influences (including those adopted from invaders) than to the refined artistic salons of Paris.

Unlike the delicacy of Lalique or Liberty designs, Hungarian architecture of this period is rugged, strong and earthy, yet presents a natural and human beauty that is, frankly, almost without words to describe.

The concept of Art Nouveau was to employ, and interpret, natural forms and structures. While some artists of the movement focused on the excessive beauty of their work, Hungarian buildings from this time excel in expressing what seems effortlessly natural, yet can have been achieved only through arduous attention to shape, form and detail.

The result is an environment that arises and blends with nature in a way wholly in keeping with the magic of Hungary, where nature expresses itself in almost metaphysical ways.

Hungarians, especially Budapestis, are rightly proud of their city and fully aware of the appeal it has for visitors. But Hungarians, instinctively, are neither boastful nor aggressive in marketing their culture (a consequence of centuries of foreign oppressors, no doubt).

So, to fully appreciate the Budapest experience one needs, quite simply, to "be there"– an attitude of mind that also seems to arise naturally in Budapestis.

*Some photos taken of local buildings*

Tourist season

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Sun, 15 Apr 2012 00:15:00 +0000

It seems April 1st is the time when tourists seriously begin to materialise in Budapest.

Austrians and Germans are the first early visitors. But within a week tourist walks near the Danube become increasingly populated by a patchwork of linguistics.

Groups of the middle-aged can be seen standing motionless in the street, pointing uncertainly in all directions. Backpacked youngsters rest on walls, steps or benches, lost in study of the large city map.

The first five days of this April delivered a bonus for early travellers, with temperatures rising to 22C. But the Easter weekend was enveloped by an icy northern wind that muted the outdoor celebrations I visited high up on Buda's castle district.

The blend of coolness and humidity that followed is a curious experience. But the third week of the month is forecast more definitely to be cool and probably wet. A disappointment for tourists and for the many businesses that rely on tourist traffic.

But one week does not a summer make – and this is only spring. Budapest for sightseers is a magical world, with sufficient museums, fairs, festivals and events to satisfy, even in unpromising weather. I personally hope to take advantage of the free, 2-day door-opening of many of Budapest's 100-year old buildings this weekend.

Meanwhile, here is a sunny spring view from my window!

Is it Spring yet?

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 15:43:00 +0000

Pigeons have been inspecting the window ledges for a potential des-res. Branches in the street-trees are spreading signs of olive green. I'm assured we'll see no more snow. And, this Saturday, Budapest opens its artistic Spring Festival.

Could this mean real Spring is actually on it's way?

Weather-wise, the average day remains chilly. Overcoats and jumpers are still preferred. But skies can change quickly over Budapest. Mornings can be bright and sunny, delivering warmth through glass windows, yet easily turn to overcast afternoons – threatening, though rarely delivering, rain.

Fortunately, Thursday, 15th March turned out to be a fully, clear-skied day. 164 years earlier, standing on the damp steps of Budapest's National Museum, poet Sándor Petöfi delivered the politically-charged message that began Hungary's 19th century independence revolution.

The date is marked here by an annual national holiday – despite the ultimate failure and violent repression of the Hungarians' revolt by the country's Hapsburg rulers and their allies.

In keeping with its political history, this day is now an annual focus for party political rallies across the city. Being a short walk away, once again I found myself at a political rally in front of Budapest's grand parliament. And this one was addressed by none other than the Prime Minister himself; as is his responsibility on such a national occasion.

No, I didn't understand a word he said. It is frustrating – but it's how it is. Nevertheless, such events deliver intimations on the Hungarian character and on Hungary's international political stance.

For example: Hungary must submit to the EU, yet it hates EU interference. It creates laws through its democratic parliament, yet they are refused and sent back by the overlords in Brussels.

For Hungarians, history just seems to endlessly repeat itself – it's a fact of life that appears the only certainty. Real independence is forever just beyond Hungarians' reach!

Yet, as I returned through parliament square following the rally – after imbibing at a nearby hostelry – the air shook with the sounds of a youthful, head-banging rock band playing on the same steps that had supported the prime minister and his entourage.

There's plenty of bureaucracy and convention in Hungary, but there's a creative freedom of expression too. Tomorrow might bring a better future but, in the meantime, the present irresistibly deserves to be enjoyed.

Winter

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Thu, 09 Feb 2012 00:59:00 +0000

Well, I thought the weather gods had decided to be lenient with Hungary this year. January was cold, but bearable, and I imagined the worst was over. Then February arrived.

Ukraine and Poland gave an early warning of harsh winter conditions ahead. Seven days later, extreme cold descended on Hungary accompanied by snow.

Presently in Budapest, an 8 cm initial fall of snow has compressed on the ground. The Danube looks like a Canadian waterway, with broken ice floes over much of the surface drifting constantly downstream.

Daytime, with appropriate layered clothing, walking outdoors presents no problem. In fact, some clear sunny days have partially melted the snow. But clear days merely set up nightfall for deeper extremes of cold.

Last Friday, when the official night temperature was merely -11C, I missed both the last metro and alternative bus home. This meant 40 minutes exposure... seeking options, walking for 20 minutes against ice wind, then waiting for the night tram to arrive. It was an interesting experience!

Today, Feb 8th, the southern regions of Hungary are forecast temperatures of -23C overnight. This is extreme – even for Hungary.

In such conditions the homeless (of which Budapest has far too many) become of prime concern. Extra police have been mandated to locate those still on the streets. Official hostels, however, have become full, requiring hospitals and other centres to open their doors for shelter.

Meanwhile, many schools have temporarily closed. The reason offered is they cannot afford the current costs of heating!

Hungary – a place of extremes – suffered, mainly, with remarkably quiet equanimity...

Politics by Candlelight (Budapest Rally)

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Mon, 23 Jan 2012 13:33:00 +0000

On Saturday, 21st January, I attended my first political rally in Budapest.

I was quite surprised by the turnout, given the cold weather. The rally had begun in the afternoon at Heroes Square (the Trafalgar Square of Budapest) and made its way across the city to gather in front of the parliament.

That's where I joined it, and waited with the crowd for something to happen. But it took another hour and a half for thousands to reach the square from their long walk.

Candles enclosed in small hand-held lanterns are popular here as a sign of loyalty, or perhaps of remembrance. Plenty of large national flags were in evidence, plus tall placards bearing pointed political statements. In particular, I noted "1956 - The Tanks : 2012 - The Banks" and "Hands off Hungary".

Once the whole square, and beyond, seemed filled to capacity, some encouraging speech-making began. I've no idea idea what was being said, of course. But it seemed to hit the right note, with frequent roars of approval and applause rising from the audience.

After some thirty minutes of crowd-bonding political statements, the rally obediently fell into a clearly meaningful and patriotic hymnal song, signified by the removal of hats by gentlemen (including myself) and its slow pace.

As I now know the meaning of the (very beautiful) national anthem, I have no doubt this hymn was an equally poignant lament over Hungary's troubled past with a commitment not to forget but build on other's sacrifices.

The communal singing marked the end of the event, which from the organisers' point of view must have been deemed quite a success, given the present political environment.

Oh... did I mention this was a pro-government rally, in support of Viktor Orban's governing Fidesz party?

Outside election time, a pro-government rally in the UK would be unlikely. We're too dismissive of our politicians to give them more encouragement than they need. But here in Hungary, the legacy of the past remains a significant and polarising issue.

Patriotism and anti-communism is what unites those giving the government their support (despite the prime minister's evident international 'difficulties'). In contrast, the present socialist opposition remains significantly tainted by corruption and its communist party roots.

On the way home, I was asked for directions by a pleasant elderly gentleman. I wasn't much help, but between our languages I gathered that to be at the rally he'd travelled all the way from Debrecen (120 miles). Political rallying is much the same in most countries – as long as the freedom of democracy remains.

Though I can't understand too much of the political detail, it felt good simply to be sharing Hungarian values among so many Hungarians.

New Year in Budapest

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Sun, 15 Jan 2012 17:46:00 +0000

Visitors should know that New Year is celebrated with gusto in Budapest. Despite the expected cold, the street is where things happen, for younger Budapestis at least. But the call to the street should be tempered with a health warning. Fireworks seem to be easily available and – despite the several well-organised public displays – in the hands of individuals, thrown into the air in a crowded square, they can represent a hazard.

However, for less energetic Budapestis, and once the midnight hour has passed, the many clubs, bars and restaurants are the places to be. There is a special Hungarian new year diet – involving hot soup, sausages and bread – which, if you're lucky, may be served after the last midnight chimes have struck.

I spent New Year's Eve at a pub well-known to expats, The Caledonia in Mozsár Street. Yes, it's Scottish run and knows how to celebrate Hogmanay. The pub was busy, crowded, lively, with the vast majority of celebrants being Hungarian. After the organised entertainment of a singing-playing duo, it was over to the customers for ear-splitting karaoke.

I've not experienced much karaoke in Britain and used to imagine it was mainly the province of emotionally-drunk Japanese businessmen. But karaoke in Budapest is a revelation and can be found in many bars. What makes it special here is the quality of singing. Hungary is somehow blessed with exceptional musical talent (unknown to the rest of the world) and on karaoke nights, well-fueled by alcohol, this talent excels – and rocks.

The Caledonia's karaoke was joined by what I was assured was one of the best rock-blues-jazz singers in the country. And when local contributors make even the inevitable My Way sound original, captivating, exciting, one can be sure a good time was being had by all. And for me, another night that didn't end 'til 5 am.

Snowy portent

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 12:10:00 +0000

Today it snows in Budapest. A light, watery snow, drifting on a gentle wind. It is the first of the winter. And, briefly, I feel like a child experiencing snow for the first time – which is clearly the case for some of the smaller, well-wrapped, toddlers-in-hand passing by.

This is my first Budapest winter. But on this well-walked street, Budapestis seem almost oblivious to the snow, walking casually without hat or umbrella. Even the man in his wheelchair, who likes to use the roadway rather than the pavement, is speeding about his business without extra protection from the elements.

I have heard stories of how deep the winter here can sometimes be. Deep in ice and snow, with temperatures falling to minus 20C. In contrast, today's passing snowflakes seem worthy of no more than a Budapesti shrug. But for me it is a sign of significant things to come – the Great Hungarian Winter.

Will it be mild or will it be severe? We shall see...

What is cold?

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Sat, 26 Nov 2011 16:51:00 +0000

It's the time of year when Hungary's winter climate begins to dominate people's lives. Maybe I am experiencing the effects a little earlier than hardened Magyars.

In my flat the temperature when I wake is 15 degrees (C.) and the ambient indoor daytime temperature – without heating – reaches just 17 degrees. After a short while, I am not comfortable with such temperatures.

There are hot water radiators in each room heated by gas. Each radiator is located, as convention dictates, beneath a glass window! Each window is 9 foot high and 3 foot wide.

My Hungarian landlady – with inbuilt Magyar instinct for minimising unnecessary expense – insists that heating the flat to 19 degrees is perfectly adequate.

Well, I have had news for her. It takes 22 degrees before the chilly environment I feel recedes and I'm approaching comfortable. The truth is, it's not what others say or a research institute recommends, it's what we feel ourselves that marks the difference between cold and warmth.

It does, nevertheless, seem strange that an adequate temperature at other times of year feels so cold in winter. Apparently, humidity and radiation are to blame.

Lower air humidity draws warmish water particles out of the body. Radiation, operating like global weather, takes warmth from the body to heat cold windows and walls.

Of course, no-one other than me is responsible for setting the temperature level in the flat – or for paying the resulting bills. I am naturally anxious about winter heating costs. And I feel equally coerced by the prevailing Magyar attitude of denying the Hungarygaz company excess profits.

Ultimately, though, I know which impulse will win. Beset by falling humidity and rising radiation, I'm going to have to turn a blind eye to costs and turn up the heating.

You can't resist the forces of nature for ever.

Autumn leaves

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Tue, 01 Nov 2011 19:33:00 +0000

Did we get an October Indian summer in Budapest this year? Unfortunately, no.

After little more than a week autumn arrived with rain and cold. The temperature remained cool through the month, confirming that warm outer clothes would now be the order of the day. But, as is typical for autumn, there have been many days with simply clear blue skies.

This period of the year sees some relief from the almost perpetual schedule of public events. But the turn of October to November also delivers three public holidays.

Republic Day, on October 23, recalls both the 1956 revolution and the proclamation of independence in 1989. Being a Sunday, this meant little change, aside from the opportunity for nearly a hundred thousand citizens to gather in Kossuth Lajos (Parliament) square to vehemently protest about everything!

All Saints Day is celebrated with a holiday on November 1. This being a Tuesday, an extra holiday is added on October 31, creating a 'long weekend', together with a few attempts at celebrating the unfamiliar concept here of Halloween.

Budapest is very peaceful (demos aside) on such autumn holiday occasions. Buda, the hilly and greener side of Budapest, provides a natural attraction for walking among fallen leaves and observing the crisp and coolish city from on high.

Many visitors will have taken the funicular that runs from close to the Chain Bridge up the hillside to Buda's Castle District above. It is worth doing. But I can recommend a more leisurely approach on foot that doesn't exhaust the legs.

Batthyányi Tér is the closest metro station. Walking through the square, and past to its left, you will find restaurants and bistro/bars. Turn left up Fő utca and to the right you will find Vam utca, which takes you steeply to Donáti street. This weaves left on cobbled stones past rustic buildings to a small village green.

About here, you may already be being seduced by the call of a gypsy fiddle. Above, you will see step paths leading you higher up the hill. Turn a final corner and all is revealed. The monumental masonry of Fisherman's Bastion and its many viewing galleries is upon you.

Fisherman's Bastion is one of the strangest locations in Budapest. Built at the turn of the 19th century, it seems to emulate a Disneyworld of what medieval castles ought to look like. But impressive it certainly is, and it provides some of the most stunning views of the Danube, Parliament and Pest city.

Walk up to Castle District's 'high street', keep crossing west, and you'll shortly be at the opposite western battlements. From here you can view the Buda side of town, with its seven or eight hills disappearing into the haze or autumn mist.

If your legs do get tired, the number 16 bus returns you downhill to the Chain Bridge and Pest.

What's special about Hungary?

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Sun, 30 Oct 2011 21:49:00 +0000

This is a civil society. The civility of Hungarians is one of the first characteristics that impressed me.

Pass any Hungarian in an enclosed space – a stairwell or a lift – and you'll receive a greeting 'Good day'. Enter any small shop and you'll receive the same greeting from the shopkeeper, plus 'How can I help you?' and on leaving 'Goodbye'. Travel on a tram and you'll soon witness a teenager – without prompting – keenly give up their seat to an elderly person.

Hungarians are aware of one another and of their responsibilities to each other. The social interplay may be a ritual, but a Hungarian would feel uncomfortable if the proper acknowledgements weren't made.

I have no doubt this dignified display of human respect has a long and ancient history, like the Hungarians themselves. For centuries the passive victims of rule by foreign forces, Magyars have nevertheless retained a common filial bond, maintained not least through their very individual language.

Of course, there are paradoxes, as in any society. One might expect the characteristics I've described to be reflected in a generously liberal political outlook. Yet the current government – elected with a very large majority – delights in campaigning as 'anti-liberal'.

I'm still too ignorant of Hungarian politics to express a personal view – which might be mixed. But, in this case, Hungary's history surely comes into play. A strong, national-minded government, sceptical of the dilution of Hungarian values by 'internationalists' or 'liberals', is precisely what Hungary has been denied over hundreds of years.

There is opposition too, naturally. In fact, civic action in the form of street demonstrations takes place almost weekly in Budapest. These are well-coralled demonstrations, but also generally good-natured, and often accompanied by a mobile DJ to maintain noise volume and good spirits.

Hungary faces a struggle over several years to overcome a difficult economic situation. There will be dissent over 'anti-liberal' measures designed to address the country's debts. But underlying the to and fro of politics, it seems to me, there remains an instinctive commitment to civil society. Times are tough, and Hungarians have no option but to submit to this reality. But the common dignity and resilience of this community is what I believe will eventually pull Hungary through. This is a very civil society.

Observant readers will note I've suggested only one characteristic that makes Hungary 'special' (and apologies for going 'political'). This leaves endless scope for considering many more.
So what makes Hungary special for you?

Pálinka-fest

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Thu, 13 Oct 2011 17:20:00 +0000

A wintry autumn made its appearance in Budapest this week. The temperature high fell to 12 deg. and at night it was only 2 deg. above freezing.

But are we truly heading for winter's grip or was this just a passing visit?

Indian summers in Hungary occur one month later than any such fortunate event in Britain. Temperatures in Budapest can reach 24 deg in October, but then again, they may not. Generally, winter is described as beginning in December, so autumn has some time to reveal its true colours yet.

The sudden cold spell didn't deter visitors to the Pálinka (and Sausage) Festival, held on Budapest's higher reaches of Buda Castle. Budapestis, rather than tourists, seemed to be in the majority. Undoubtedly, they were aware of the vast variety of pálinka brews on offer to satisfy any palate and its ability to generate internal proof against any cold.

The atmosphere, as chilly winds blew and rain tried to drizzle, was reassuringly peaceful. Dressed in sensible pullovers and winter jackets, the somewhat hedonistic attitude that summer heat brings was replaced by a mindful gathering of talkative people, becoming ever more so as the pálinka produced its gentle, but certain, effects.

In case you didn't know, pálinka is a brandy-style spirit made from fruit and is a national delight. Double distilled it produces a brew between 40–70 percent proof. Almost any kind of fruit can be used, but the commonest finds are cherry, apricot, pear, plum, apple, mulberry and quince.

Hungarian pálinka brands are protected by the EU (an organisation obsessed with eliminating borders which nevertheless protects national products!) and by strict distillation rules for each variety. However, fortunately for Magyars with fruit trees, it's also presently quite legal to distill-your-own.

For more obscure information on pálinka you could do worse than visit here.

Antiques Road Show

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Mon, 26 Sep 2011 13:28:00 +0000

This Saturday, yet another "Event" that couldn't be missed – it was on my doorstep.

The major antique dealers of Pest congregate in a street close to Parliament and twice annually throw open their doors to encourage all and sundry to inspect their wares.

The encouragement takes the form of a street party, which was carried out with the flair I now expect in Budapest.

The show lasted from 10am to 10pm and was accompanied by street food stalls, street seating and a stage for singer and band.

However, only one stall sold glasses of wine. And the upmarket wine shop was only selling bottles. So I was a little disappointed with the lack of alcohol, given there are merely three hostelries in the street!

While I'm no expert on antiques, in terms of art I know what I like. Two galleries showed exhibitions of contemporary art – one on loan from Leipzig, the other a private Hungarian collection. Although I prefer a Leonardo to a Warhol any day, some of these works from the 1970s were clearly masterpieces, priceless, and not for sale.

Of the genuine antique shops, I have a particular liking for one selling militaria. The range includes flintlock rifles, ball and powder pistols, pikes, swords, sabres and chain mail. Swords are in particular strength, dating from the 19th century to Saxon times, with ethnic curio examples from throughout the world.

Other sellers specialise in various objet d'art... functional gold, silver and pewter objects, beautifully autumnal-coloured vases, plates and bowls, miniature figurines, and a lot of (not very exciting, frankly) 19th and 20th century paintings.

But that's not all. The largest store in the street sells stunning antique furniture over three large floors. Some of the Empire pieces (Austro-Hungarian?) are vast marble and wood constructions for the manor hall. Antique marquetry is available, from beautiful tables and cabinets to fold-away chess sets, plus plenty of elegant softer furnishings and lots of curious collectors objects.

Finally, I must mention the Hungarian tradition for rugs. The indigenous variety owe much to what has become the Romanian region in design. Colours are warm, the design simple and they are a very distinctly Hungaro product. But thanks to the foreign influences of Hungary's past, classic Turkish and Asian style rugs and carpets have been popular here for centuries and some fine examples are available, at a price, from the antique sellers in Budapest.

...The street party dawdled on into the late evening and I returned home to find the ground floor art house was presenting jazz. A very accomplished blind Hungarian musician was accompanied by an equally accomplished blonde American female singer. Guests who found their way to the inner courtyard were well rewarded. I was able to listen from my balcony above.

P.S. For five days this coming week it seems there are more 'events'! Belvárosi Művészeti Napok means City Arts Days, featuring music, theatre, folk art and museum talks across the city, with the antiques galleries receiving another throw of the dice.

Horses for Heroes'

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Mon, 19 Sep 2011 23:15:00 +0000

Hungarians, especially in Budapest, seem to have an obsession for audience 'events'. There is hardly a weekend, or sometimes full week, without one.

Of course, this is good for tourism, yet many occasions cater as much for Hungarians themselves. Fortunately, Hungarians are excellent at organising such events, and often on a very grand scale.

National Day, August 20, produced events all over the city, with a focus on the water and air display on and over the Danube, and a crowd-enthusing evening firework display.

One weekend ago, Buda Castle saw the culmination of several days of the International Wine (and food) Festival, which has now reached its twentieth year.

And this past weekend brought the turn of an especially cultural specific event – a horse racing pageant in Heroes' Square named The National Gallop.

Three days of public heats elsewhere in the city climaxed in an extravaganza in Budapest's largest square – sand and sawdust strewn for the occasion – with associated attractions stretching for nearly a mile.

Andrássy Avenue – the long, straight approach from city centre to Heroes' Square – turned into a mecca for most of its length for stalls and displays covering every kind of marketing opportunity, from high performance vehicles to traditional crafts, with plenty of participatory action for children.

Of The National Gallop itself, one can be in no doubt of its national flavour. Enormous posters proudly display moustachiod Hussars in colourful 19th century uniforms. Trotting, galloping and sabre-drawn, charging Hussars feature throughout the programme. And, as well as show jumping, dressage, carriages and traps, polo and racing, we were also presented with re-creations of the Magyar settlers staking their Hungarian claim and battle scenes from the 1848 revolution.

Incidentally, it may be little known that the original huszár –a light-cavalryman– was first created in the 15th century by the Hungarian King Mátyás (Matthias). Only after four centuries of offensive and defensive huszár valour did this successful concept finally catch on with most of Europe's other armies.

The organisers of the now annual National Gallop describe it as not only presenting horse racing tradition and history, but also engendering Hungarian "faith, strength and cohesion" from a living past. "Every nation has an indisputable right to basic cultural and moral demands," they say, and through these "there is power which can be used at any time to recover a sense of belonging".

Since I feel obliged to take an objective view, I sometimes wonder if the profusion of public spectacles, such as this one, in Budapest – in receipt of official encouragement no doubt – aren't reflecting a 'bread and circuses' relationship with the population.

I expect, however, this is just too cynical a view. After all, what better place than a beautiful city like Budapest to hold almost any kind of event. The fact they keep the Budapesti happy, the tourists happy and me happy as well, is surely justification enough to consider Budapest as one of Europe's finest events capitals.

By the way, the winner of the National Gallop Finals 2011 was Pearl Molnar from Baja region. The only female in the race, she received a rapturous reception on the winner's stand and stood with tears in her eyes as the national anthem played – totally overcome with pride and emotion.

Fifties jive (and all that jazz)

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Sun, 28 Aug 2011 09:16:00 +0000

To Margit Island Saturday night for a concert billed as 60s–70s rock, apparently.

I'd been given the tip by an English couple at the tram stop. Since, unusually, the trams weren't operating anywhere, I decided to walk to the middle of the Island and give it a try.

Perhaps this would be a revival of The Searchers, Freddie and the Dreamers – maybe even The Eagles would drop in for the evening, I mused.

(There's no lack of rock talent available in Budapest most weekends - plus this year's Sziget Festival brought 500 bands to eleven stages for seven days.)

The reality of this concert, however, was rather different.

The venue was a (possibly collectivist era) concrete exhibition centre with stepped outdoor seating attached that faced the stage. The theme was predominantly 50s jive. And the presentation involved a large, loud swing orchestra in red jackets, colourful stage dancers doing choreographed twirls, and a middle-aged compère in glitter-jacket and dark glasses.

The whole evening was in Hungarian and the seating was pretty much full.

Now I may be sounding somewhat cynical, but, as we expats frequently say: nem ertem – I just didn't get it.

The main act seemed to be another middle-aged swinger, very well-known to the audience, who crooned through rather a lot of ballads that clearly had deep meaning for most.

A number of the tunes sounded vaguely familiar, such as 'Lonely Blue Boy' (check it out). The sound was big and the professional dancing lively. But, unlike the over-excited, seat-jiving woman next to me, I couldn't really get into this particularly dated Hungarian era.

I suppose every genre and every performer has a following. Cliff Richard could still fill the Albert Hall, I understand. But like the Hungarian's love for jazz, there must be a historical connection with Hungarian Big Band Jive that I'm just missing.

I left early, passing through idolising fans jiving in the isles.

Hungarian time – and how to tell it

noreply@blogger.com (Jeremy) — Fri, 19 Aug 2011 10:36:00 +0000

Readers of this blog may probably know that Hungarian is a 'difficult' language.

This difficulty refers to the frustration experienced by any foreigner attempting to understand, or learn to speak, this truly individual language.

Hungarian uses a unique vocabulary. Hungarian grammar is determined by many rules, many exceptions to these rules and, ultimately, an almost free-form of putting a sentence together.

Such flexibility, sometimes, can be an advantage to students – except, of course, when language needs to be precise.

One illustration of Magyar flexibility, and the confusion it can present, is the way in which Hungarians tell the time.

In the English language there are, indeed, many ways of stating the time: eight o'clock; twenty hundred hours; eight fifteen; quarter past eight; twenty past eight; twenty minutes past eight; half past eight, half eight, eight forty, etc. But all these terms have a clear relationship to a specific hour. Or so it seems...

In Hungarian, time is viewed differently – and, just maybe, more correctly. Although constructions similar to English are available – and can often be used – Hungarians prefer to indicate time by referring to the forthcoming hour.

Thus 'eight-fifteen' in English becomes a 'quarter-nine'. 'Eight-thirty' is 'half-nine' and 'eight-forty-five' is 'three-quarters-nine'.

One explanation is that, optimistically, Hungarians prefer to look to the future!

This future construction becomes more complex when indicating exact minutes. For example, 'in ten minutes half nine' means 'eight-twenty'. Or, 'three-quarters nine will be in ten minutes' means 'eight-thirty-five'.

In essence, Hungarians use the 'twenty to three' forward-looking English construction throughout every hour. And, arguably, this is more consistent than the English form that can soon jump from 'twenty past two' to 'twenty to three'.

However, when the familiar 'three twenty-two' can be used just as easily (especially by younger Hungarians) as the alternative 'seven minutes past quarter four', the difficulty of understanding Hungarian becomes all too clear.

Or do I mean all too obscure...?