paris breakfasts

Ciel Bleu

2013-05-24T16:06:00.004-04:00

Ciel bleu/blue skies, swallows, putti...that's what you'll find when you look up in some old-fashioned boulangers in Paris. I went out to hunt a few down today but there are many more to discover.

First stop in the 7th arrondissement at le Boulanger des Invalides Jocteur, 14 Avenue Villars, 75007 Metro - Saint Francois-Xavier

This place is buzzing. The environment could not be more delightful. But the pastries are.

I got a sable praline cookie perfectly matching the peppy pink walls but tasting heavenly...

Next hop onto the #80 bus up to Montmartre to Boulanger Lional Cailles. The sign is tiny. You could so easily miss it but not the facade.

And the interior is one of the best with butterflies, be-ribboned croissants, floral tiles in cornflower blue.

The prices are old fashioned too which is awfully nice.

And very pretty too.

The hunt continues in the 10th at the highly regarded Les Ideas et des Pain14, rue Yves Tudic 75010 Metro: Jacques Bonsergent

The pretty sky ceil is in heavy competition with the perfect pastries and breads, neck and neck. One doesn't know which way to look.

The twirly pistache - chocolate swirls are much loved, But I just got a savory walnut pavé with chèvre and tomatoes seché inside.

The perfect place to complete your hunt for boulangerie blue skies is the 18th century-styled Hotel Caron de Beaumarchaise in the Marais.

Isn't this heavenly?

Speaking of roofs over one's head, I must begin hunting for my next roof for September 1. I need to find another small studio anywhere in Paris. If you've heard of any available studios coming up do let me know dear PBers,

Bonne Soiree PBers!

Chanel Again

2013-05-23T16:48:00.004-04:00

So I went back with my carte d'identite/passport to find out what the Chanel exhibit was really about as requested.

I discovered more exhibits upstairs I'd missed first go round..

And more historical information from the audio tape which includes photos too. More about Chanel's romantic entanglements/liaisons...

Plus a reminder that Chanel was firstly set up as a hatmaker.

Even her hats were revolutionary. Utterly simple compared to what went before. Apollinaire wrote poems about her hats.

Chanel's hats were the cherry on top...

The finishing touch. We've lost so much elegance haven't we...

Catherine di Medici was a heroine to Chanel. She owned this little portrait and followed closely the severity of di Medici's black and white style.

You always see more the second time around don't you?

What was it like to walk in her shoes..?

Or work in her atelier?

Upstairs there's a gazillion reference books to browse on big comfy sofas. And a room to watch all the Chanel N5 videos - a delight.

If you work at the exhibit you get to wear Vans black and white sneakers which are very in again... What would Chanel think?

Murder in the Latin Quarter

2013-05-22T16:52:00.001-04:00

Private detective Aimée Laduc's back in town and duking it out in the Latin Quarter.

Hanging out with Aimée's creator Cara Black in Pigalle was a trip. She doesn't miss a trick. There's red velvet elevator in her Latin Quarter book described in great detail. Will this elevator in the Hotel Langoise we strolled into show up in a future mystery? Ya gotta wonder..?

Cara/Aimée is a bit of an imp. Yet there are can be serious political back stories in her mysteries. I appreciate that her victims are NOT stereotypically brutalized women or all prostitutes.

The 'Latin Quarter' or 5th arrondissement is Aimee's old university turf with scenes inside the Sorbonne. and scenes in the last remains of Roman ruins in the city like Les Arenes. Plus some underground shenanigans going on in the catacombs that you'll never get me to go down in.

Neighborhood cafes are featured since Aimee is big on espresso. So is Cara for that matter.

The main museum is the Cluny on 6 Place Paul Painlevé

There's a terrific scene late in the book with Aimee hiding out in the Frigitorium from her supposed villain.

Aimee could definitely wear a helmet full-time. she gets knocked about on her head way too much IMHO...

She runs around a lot hiding from her persuers...

I wish she'd wear some decent shoes for once..

Foiled again at rush hour on the #10 Metro is Aimee...

And Aimee Puleeze try to stay out of Parisian ambulances. Too much tripping, falling down, heels breaking and tearing of vintage Schiaparelli beaded jackets. Sensible this French girl is not.

Aimee does eat a pastry in Latin Quarter! OK, so it's a figue tarte but figs are not in season so you'll have to make do with apricot or strawberry.Be my guest.

Murder in the Latin Quarter is just as un-put-downable as the rest of Cara Black's Paris by arrondissement series. Right now the guardienne of my building is gobbling up the latest batch sent over from Soho Press but I'll soon get them all to myself. Can't wait! Maybe a tarte citron is waiting in the next bunch to devour. Qui sait?

How to Paint Like Eugene Boudin

2013-05-21T08:57:00.004-04:00

A little painting-sketching leçon today so you can draw like Eugene Boudin even if you can't make it over for the exhibit at Musée Jacquemart-Andréby July 22.

The day I visited the Boudin exhibit the sun was shining brightly..

Today it's continuous Paris drizzle but never mind. This is perfect to get you in a 'Boudin' frame of mind..

If there was another 19th century outdoor painter so in love with umbrellas I'd love to to know about it.

Is it only French rain that makes such nice shadow shapes?

Probably. This one mirrors exactly

The rough dog sketches of Boudin

That later turn up in a beach scene painting.

*Note at least 2 umbrellas...

Another rough preparatory sketch of Boudins that I copied above, first with tracing paper and then into watercolor. The iPad Mini makes a great little portable light box to trace from your photos or paintings.

1. Simply set up an album and pop just ONE picture into it.

2. Then go into your Settings,

3. Then Picture Frame

4. Choose - Show Each Photo For 20 seconds

5. Turn off your iPad in the corner

6. Press the 'flower' icon to start the slideshow (which will stay on that one picture so you can trace it wiggle-free).

Voila! Another reason to love the iPad mini.

No umbrellas in the finished painting but these are working class so...

Another pencil sketch of beach loungers with their umbrellas and a good one to copy. Boudin loved to throw in just a touch of red to liven thing ups among all the neutral colors. Plus red paint was quite pricy back then so you had to be judicious with it...

Boudin, himself sitting out on a dock. He was really the first to get everyone out of the studio and painting in 'plein aire' including his good chum Monet. Do note his umbrella of course...

At the museum shop you can get a full painting outfit a bit more upscale than Boudin's supplied by the delightful left bank art shop Charvin.

The museum shop does not have any Boudin umbrellas on offer but they do have this darling lampshade for about 69 euros. Why not just practice tracing Boudin sketches and in no time at all you can make your own?

This is my watercolor set, in case you're interested from Amazon. I do use other colors from Winsor and Newton like Burnt Sienna and Permanent Rose, which tend to run a bit more. They didn't have Boudin's paintbox at the exhibit but it's still a terrific show and worth a visit if you're into 19th century anything.

Researche du Canelés

2013-05-20T09:46:00.000-04:00

Falling in love with a little custardie cake, le Canelé, can be quite deleterious to your health.

I'd resisted the flirtatious wiles of the canelé for a long time, but at the Perigord Foire the old coup de foudre/flash of lightening hit and it hard.

Handmade by Lucette of Hautefort in Perigord using walnuts picked from her own grove (usually only vanilla and rum are the only addends to the egg and milk mixture), these rustic babies were irresistible. I even went back to the well for a third helping(!) and decided I must do some caparitive analysis with Parisian canelés.

Research began Sunday morning right after a dunk in the pool at nearby boulangerie, Le Moulin de la Vierge.

Le Moulin is one of the prettiest of Paris' boulangeries but see the yellow tops on these canelés?

That's a no-no according to Paula Wolfert and top pastry chefs of Bordeaux. These little cakes originated over 300 years ago either by nuns (nuns get a lot of credit for creating cakes in France by the way) or else by poor Bordelaises down by the waterfront with bits of leftover flour and egg yolk etc.

Next stop Maison Lemoine originating in Bordeaux with branches in St.-Emilion, Sarlat, Cap-Ferret.

Even Lemoine's logo is a canele cake

They sell the preferred copper molds or moules to make these puppies or you can find silicone molds in any Paris pastry supply shop.

Lemoine makes a soft/moille canele and a crispy or croustillant version with a more crunchy caramelized outer shell. Both had a cakey aroma or nez. The crispy version can be quite chewy.

Just across the street on rue St. Dominique patisserie Jean Millet is a member of Relais Desserts so anything they do is generally delish.

Note the spelling here all you ex-French teachers!

Only authentic cakes from Bordeaux are allowed to use the single N in the spelling. It's the law according to 88 pastry chefs of Bordeaux who hold dear the secret recipe to this little cake.

Only about 1 1/2" high but there's a lot of protection for this recently back-in-fashion pastry - just the past 20 years or so.

The biggest Bordeaux brand of canele is Baillardran. They have a shop in gare Montparnasse.

They offer 3 levels of quality. I got the 'traditional', their top canele with visible flecks of vanilla, a rummy aroma and a little red paper crown for 2.30 euros.

Still after tasting as many of Paris' best example to be found on a rainy Sunday afternoon none comes close to the artisanally made canele by Lucette from La Noix Patiente/ the patient nut of the Perigord fair at Montmartre. I should have known and not gone off on a tasting tangent that has left me with a tummy ache. These little cakes are meant to be eaten just one at a time. And multiple taste-testing by one person is not such a hot idea. I guess I'll have to visit Perigord if I want another ONE!

Le Perigord à Montmartre

2013-05-18T10:21:00.002-04:00

Yesterday on my B'day 365 Creative Dresses and I went to the Perigord fair

In Montmartre by Sacre Coeur

For the perfect lunch.

Dessert First SVP!

Hey it's my B'day

Fraises/strawbs direct from the Dordogne with Chantilly whipped cream piled on top

Next door figs from Norbert Echourgnac filled with heavenly foie gras. Just a gouter/taste did the trick. Insanely riche...

We had the best canele ever we both agreed. Not too sweet yet that perfect balance between cake and custard - so hard to get these babies right IMHO. I went back again today to get another and more strawbs and...

Pretty little bottles of flavored syrups - rose, rhubarb, black current...

Regional walnuts/noix in the shell or out and caramelized !

We shared a perfect half dozen of farm-raised escargot served with a little apero toast and a marinated snail. Heaven.

And just the right amount from Terre d'Escargots. The garlicky-parsley aromas were...oh heck!

This gentleman farmer had wonderful canard something or other and honeys from Château de Fayolle. You can visit and stay as well. There's a pool...

Chèvre/goat cheese in all ranges from fresh to Very aged...

These weekend French regional fairs are always announced in PariScope. Plenty of maps and guides were provided. What a great way to find out about an area before visiting. This British man was showing his Mum the postcard she bought of the ride down the Montmartre funicular...

Bonne Weekend PBers and THANK YOU for all your kind wishes and encouragement!!

Un Cadeau/ a presie

2013-05-17T05:08:00.002-04:00

Today as always, is Norwegian Independence Day.

It's also my birthday and a first while I'm LIVING in Paris.

Today's horoscopes were not too encouraging...

Metro -Taureau: Des remous sont à prévoir dans voter foyer. Vous n'etes pas d'accord enter vous et chacon campe sur ses positions. Faintest le premiere pas pour débloquer la situation.

Google Translation- Taurus: The tub are expected to vote in home. You are not in agreement you enter and o'donnell sticking to his guns. Not the faintest first to break the deadlock.

Ok forget the horoscope.

The other day Patricia left a comment:

Please write a book!

We love your witty comments and hidden peeps of Paris. Illustrate it with your whimsical paintings. Please! And please include a whole chapter (if not more) on ONLY FABULOUS DESSERTS (OFD)

Well I've been working on a book for ages and ages...

It's been through many renditions and it's been a kind of torture..

Just this week literary agent Rachelle Gardner talked about bloggers being told they should write a book and maybe they should forgetaboutit?

Honestly I LOVE blogging daily for PB.

It's a creative challange that makes my day.

Plus what's not to love about the instant recognition you get back?

Creating a book is soooo different than blogging. It takes way more time and the format is completely different.

Solving that problem has stumped me for such a long time...

French Girl keeps asking me,

"When is ze book launch?"

Grrrrrr....she has no idea

Lord knows I've certainly collected enough macaron material to write several books over...ahem

And even researched beyond Paris' perimeters.

Heck! It was the main reason I moved to Paris.

But not a whole lot has gotten done.

So I'm turning to you dear PB readers to give me a good kick in the pants regarding 'Ze Book' as a birthday presie.

Or maybe I should quit?

Qui sait?

I've had a little breakthrough this week.

I do a lot of work while riding on the Metro and in the pool.

Let me know what you think svp.

Veronique Mauclerc

2013-05-16T13:12:00.000-04:00

Today I went off to the 19th to visit the much revered boulangerie Veronique Mauclerc, noted for her wood-burning oven and fabulous breads.

Veronique Mauclerc

83, rue de Crimée

75019

Metro Laumiére

My nose was pressed so close to the window looking at all the goodies...

I didn't realize I was reading the labels out loud in wonderment...

"Crumble Rhubarbe!

Éclair Chantilly Fraises!

Pamplemousse Pistache!"

A young man passed by laughing.

A woman passed by with her little dog and paid no nevermind...

Enfin I tore myself away from the delicious window and went inside. It's positively dreamy. All the right touches for a traditional old fashioned French boulangerie.

The breads looked exceptional and sounded exceptional.

Pistache-Amandes-noisettes, pain à l'épeautre, au lin, sarrasin aux amandes, seigle raisins..

They serve afternoon tea in the back near where the baking is done on the premises.

It was the tartes that won my heart - the irresistable tarte pamplemousse pistache and a crumble griottes(cherry). Both were not overly sweet, even tart and very fruity. The shortbread crust was too good to leave uneaten as I usually do.

The cover of today's Stylist was graced with a picture of a be-wigged Steven Spielberg, president of the Cannes film jury this year, with the line,

"Et s'il avait été une femme?"

(And if he had been a woman?)

There's been a lot of talk of the paucity of women directors competing in this year's film festival and rightly so.

The same goes even more so in the pastry world. Very few women can break through 'the oven door'. Almost no women get a chance to compete for the highly desirable MOF award. And very few were competing at La Coupe du Monde de la patisserie in Lyon. Veronique Mauclerc's boulangerie is exceptional as is Claire Damon of des Gâteau et du Pain. Both should be supported and are worth going out of your way for. So please visit. You won't be disappointed I promise.

And you'll see interesting shoes on the #5 Metro to Laumiere.

Searching for Sugar Man

2013-05-15T09:02:00.003-04:00

Many Thanks to Meeting The French and Ohlala Maman I went to see the film, Seaching For Sugar Man yesterday

This is such a dont-miss I can't tell you - the story, the back story, the MUSIC, the Man (Rodriguez). A heartbreaker yet it put me on such a high, I floated out of the theater...

And went searching for color on the streets of Paris

Not much color on Parisian streets...

But plenty in the shop windows..

But plenty more in the shops like Antoine et Lilli..

Sweet dreams of a pink summer...

Francois Pralus is thinking Summer all year round - the most colorful chocolatier on the planet.

Perfect to put in your Summer picnic basket no?

Pink roses like Rosé wine spell out Spring/Summer in a big way.

Throw some petals on the ground to feel Summery

Or get a gateau full of red berries et voila!

This weekend if you're in Paris come to the 7th annual festival of le Perigord a Montmartre to feast on regional wines, foie gras, + canard whatever...

If you're not in Paris just get out the frais, asperges and an umbrella (since rain is always likely).

And be sure to listen to the sound track from Sugar Man!

N 5 Culture Chanel

2013-05-14T07:36:00.000-04:00

The N5 Culture Chanel exhibit is only on till 5 June at Palais de Tokyo

The exhibit focuses on the evolution of perfume Chanel N5.

Plexiglas display cases/vitrines reflect perfectly the square austerity of the bottle's shape. An explanatory booklet is given out along with a free audio tape (only if you have your carte d'identite with you). I did not, so was left to make my own assumptions...

From the get go Chanel's photos are so graphically designed.

Her use of her own dark hair, sharp distinctive features and slim body

Are the perfect packaging for her house of Chanel.

Such powerful personal imagery. Was there ever another icon like her?

Chanel's art collection and refined taste seems to mirror her image always.

A severity plus grace.

And lyrical lines.

Yet when drawing her it's hard not to notice she rarely if ever smiles. Not a hint of warmth or empathy, but always line and grace are apparent...

I read Hal Vaughan's Sleeping With The Enemy when it first came out - a detailed, historic, somewhat dry account of Chanel during the war years. Nothing like the expose on YSL and Lagerfeld in Alice Drake's The Beautiful Fall, one of my all time favorite books on Paris couture.

Still the pervasive narcissism of her portraits does give one pause...

And make one wonder about the real life of the original mysterious French woman...

Perhaps I should go back with my carte d'identite/passport and find out what the Chanel exhibit is really about non?

Or you can go and report back.

UGC illimité

2013-05-13T13:46:00.001-04:00

I've been in Paris for FOUR months and NO movies!

This is a disaster

Especially in a town...

A wash in movie theaters. That grey sky looks threatening to open up at any moment and give us all a good soak. Movies are a great escape from the rain or a chance for a quick snooze after too much running...

Weekly PariScope has SIXTY pages allotted to just films every issue so I have been dying to go.

Enfin I was saved. The UGC chain has a deal where for just a monthly fee of 20.08€ you can see as many films as you want (even in the same day as long as an hour has elapsed between séances/shows.

You do need a French bank account. I opened one precisely for this reason - to go to the movies believe it or not. Up to now it's just been me and the ATM. By the way UGC has 620 salles/rooms playing 620 films in Paris and the card is good outside Paris as well.
Heaven!

French movie theater seats are low and cushie. The rooms in most multiplexes are on the small side but who cares

As long as there's a movie playing. I don't care if I'm sitting on an orange crate.

Before the feature begins there are ads for perfume!

And art exhibits ads!

Not your usual fast food chains or soda pop.

Today I went to see Sous Surveillance or Robert Redford's “The Company You Keep” with a top-drawer cast and story. I thought it was dynamite terrific! A don't-miss.

Of course there were French subtitles. I scribbled in the dark little expressions I wanted to remember...

I should to be seeing Fr films to improve my language skills but I'll get there eventually...

Gatsby opens on Wednesday and I can't wait!

UGC illimite je t'aime!!

Mother's Helpers

2013-05-12T10:22:00.000-04:00

Quite a few of you begin your emails with,

"I know you must be a fanatic Francophile like myself bla bla bla.."

Honestly I came to Paris because of the enchanting kitchen gadgets. It was love at first sight with the Chef's Palm Zester (which just happens to be American born and bred).

I can thank Chef Marthe as the Pied Piper who led me down the road to French kitchen gadget madness. I fell hard for her herb-cutting sissors.

In no time at all I had my own pair. Sadly I left them back in NYC...

An instant coupe de foudre/like a flash of lightening the attraction I felt for this adorb apple peeler/slicer.

I discovered it all on my own at the Agricultural Salon and no one pushed me to buy it (15€). I take full responsibility.

I met the French Fry potato-cutter in the Sunday marché. I never eat or make French fries but the appeal of instant carrot sticks was irresistible. What's a girl to do?

Here's a French gadget I had no problem passing up. Too many parts, bits and pieces.

This one selling in the street I liked a lot but fortunately my pockets were empty. Most of these run around 10€ on average so you won't break the bank if you do fall in love...

At the Foire de Paris this week lightening struck again. It's not like I eat pineapples daily, weekly or even monthly. But with a mere twist of this gadget you get such lovely slices. True, most of these demonstrators are strapping young men, who probably lift 50 pound barbells when not cutting up bushels of pineapples at trade shows. Somehow this fact eludes me as I stand entranced and then dig into my purse for the do-re-me.

Did I mention that you get a FREE (unripe) pineapple along with your purchase? Here's my sad attempt at duplicating the master's technique. I filmed him as a reminder. I think I need to re-watch it many times or start lifting weights. 365 Creative Dresses says there's nothing a good sharp knife can't do in the kitchen so she takes a pass on these Frenchies. But she was not along at the Fair to dissuade me...

Ahhh the 'Holy Grail' of gadgets (belonging to Chef Marthe again). I am still on the look out for this baby. Le sigh...

Y'all can dream of Mona Lisa's and Eiffel Towers.

I'm waiting for the next French gadget to come along...

F comme Fraises

2013-05-10T13:48:00.004-04:00

I've been working on my fraises/strawberries all week = an ongoing WIP/work in progress

The French Gariguettes in the marché go for about 5€ a 500 gr box (or 1 pound) and these babies are BIG and SWEET!

Honestly some are almost the size of a small pomme/apple. Eat two and you're full. No need to store them in the fridge either. They'll last for a few days too.

With the bounty of berries, gâteaux Fraisiers show up in all Parisian patisseries like crazy.

Louis XIV sent off to South America Amedee Francois Frezier, a French military engineer, mathematician, spy, explorer who is best remembered for bringing back 5 varieties of strawberries.

True there are now at least 600 kinds of berries to put in your tarte/gateau.

But what's with the red Vichy checkerboard on top? De rigeur for most Fraisiers and very pretty but I'd love to know the whys and where for...

Yesterday, Ascention Day in France and a major holiday was not the day to go looking for a good fraisier.

It was slim pickings all around but I made do. By the way, it must be genetic how the French can wrap up these delicate cakes in a bit of paper and Scotch tape and they arrive home completely intact. Don't even think of requesting a box in some small patisseries either. HA!

Intact yes. Inspiring? Non...

Today was different. Cara Black and I waltzed into L'Éclair de Genie (Cara wanted to see the stone cave/labo downstairs where the workers create 1,500 eclairs each weekend).

Maybe there's a future Aimee Leduc mystery inside a patisserie? I hope so. Cara fell hard for the fraisier éclair in a big way. Absolutely fabulous so a definite candidate for an OFD entry.

What to wear whilst eating your Fraisier gâteau?

A strawberry pink dress of course.

Plus the essential jeans jacket bien sur.

And do sit on a complimentary green cafe chaise/chair while you're at it?

Happy Mom's Day All!

Do Fr Girls Have Longer Legs?

2013-05-09T07:30:00.002-04:00

I have to admit that French girls DO have longer, straighter legs. It's a hard fact of life one just has to accept living here...

These are not models imported from wherever like you see all over NYC. These are born and bred Frenchies. I've even noticed moms with daughters, both very long-legged.

Of course Ines de la Fressange IS exceptionally tall no doubt about it. I've put up a video of Ines giving a little speech on YouTube (unedited btw so not so hot, still it is Ines, who can do no wrong in my books).

The thought used to be that French girls were all petite like Leslie Caron...

No more.

What are they eating I ask myself to get these legs?

The only historical reference I found were French 19th century costume drawings...perhaps not very relevant?

Clearly Tamara de Lempika was not drawing and painting French slender- legged girls. Were her models Slavic?

When I went to Brazil I noticed the girls/Brasilieras had very curvy hips. I decided this was due to standing in the water lengthy periods of time at Ipanema Beach and letting the waves slap their hips. After 3 months of following suit my hips were NOT curvy like Brazilieras. It's genetic.

Same deal in France.

It's not because they eat a lot of haricot vert.

It's genetic.

As Americans we're brought up to believe we can change/do anything we want if we try hard enough. This is not true.

C'est la vie.

Especially with the stacks of OFD/'only fabulous desserts' everywhere you look in France.

Here's a little Frenchy with the shortest possible legs.

OK so he/she is a Scotty. She has French citizenship. At least I think she has...

Le Road Trip in Paris

2013-05-08T00:42:00.003-04:00

Yesterday I went to CDG to pick up author Vivian Swift and escort her into town to her quite fabulous tiny hotel de Nesle in the 6th arrondissement. Vivian had generously taken me to JFK when I departed NYC with my mountains of junk, so it was the least I could do...

Drawing by Vivian Swift
This is Vivian of the wonderful le Road Trip and When Wanderers Cease To Roam fame...

Since Vivian has 9, now possibly 10 cats, I figured she might bring me Penelope. She did not. But she did bring me more chewing gum than I could have dreamed of (15 packs!). Gum has become popular in France (as an alternative to cigarettes?). Still a pack here of 'Hollywood' gum is quite pricy. And Vivian brought me the Timex alarm clock-radio I left behind and impossible to find in Paris. It lights in the dark, wakes you up to Cherie FM and improves your accent immeasurably if you listen to soccer games in the background (if not your comprehension). Almost as good as having a French spouse.

I didn't see a live cat at Hotel de Nesle but plenty of decorative cats.

Masses of artworks and homey tchotchkes.

Even a bear or two...

There's a delightful terrace garden up on the landing for Serenity Now and peace and quiet when you need it.

Evidently every room has a different theme at Hotel de Nesle.

Vivian has a short trip to Morocco planned, so the 'Afrique' room could not be more perfect

It's pretty normal to arrive in Paris completely jet-lagged and sleepy, but as soon as Vivian put on her J.Peterman 'English Tunic Blouse' (No. 3774) she was transformed into a dynamo raring to go. Who knew? I must get one of these.

Top of her to-do list was a decent cup of tea (Vivian's list includes must-dos in every arrondissement in Paris(!) so good thing she's got her J.Peterman with her...ahem We headed/ran out the door.

Enroute to that essential cup of tea at café de Nesle on the corner of Nesle and rue Dauphine, was an open doorway of interest, and like Cara Black, Vivian is another Fearless Fosdick when there's an inviting entryway. In she marched. Turns out to be private for soirees only and not a public musee as written on the door...

At the café my chevre chaud was disappointing. I didn't expect it to be deep-fried inside dim sum wrappers. Vivian was thrilled with her omelette nature and perfect cup of tea.

But she left the cookie that accompanied the tea, a Speculoos cookie of all things. I asked if I could have it and how come she wasn't eating it in the first place. Didn't she eat sweets?

Vivian said long ago a friend told her,

"Don't eat dessert if it isn't something FABULOUS!"

I did not eat the cookie.

And I'm immortalizing it here by posting it as the first-ever cookie I didn't eat that was there (like Mount
Everest) sitting on the table.

It's on my desktop too as a reminder to not eat non-fabulous desserts. (OFD)

We'll see how long that lasts...

Bonne Trip in Paris Vivian!

Cara and Murder in the Sentier

2013-05-07T10:37:00.002-04:00

Back prowling Paris' dark streets with Cara Black, this time in the Sentier looking for murder and mayhem as always

Cara wants to show me a particular secret passage so off we go...

Down what seems to me the loneliest and darkest of streets in Paris...

Ooopla the passage is locked tight.

This doesn't deter Cara in the least, who is climbing up the grate like a cat. My heart 's in my mouth and I'm holding my breath. No way am I game to follow suit. Just give me a nice armchair to follow Aimée Leduc's adventures thank you very much.

I'll stick to stalking Paris' dogs.

Clever Cara knows there's a fountain nearby to wash her hands...Lordie!

A murder occurs here at le Tour de Jean-sans-Peur, rue Étienne-Marcel in the Sentier mystery and no wonder - very eery...

Cara tells me, "it's not so easy to murder someone in Paris."

"Why, because of the crowds?"

"No, you need a place to hide the body...like behind construction or in a trash can.."

Ohhhhh OK. Hmmm...

We wander through passage Moliere - kind of romantic...

Nevermind. Cara finds a weird shop where you can get a plaster cast of your hands or feet for 125€. Only in Paris.

In the Aimée Leduc Companion (free on Amazon). you'll find nice places to eat and visit in each murder area. No kidding.

I've always wanted to eat at Le Colbert on rue Vivienne

And especially Le Grand Vefour...

We didn't stop in either one or the recommended Brasserie Vaudeville. Instead we stick to the dark side - an area that used to be chock-a-block with street walkers but those days are over. Par hazard, as I'm filming Cara walking, a working girl pops out, blond and toute en noire and accuses us of taking her picture. She demands to view the video tape. I want to make a run for it, but Cara's cool as a cucumber,

"mais non Madame we did not take you picture." All is resolved peacefully. Whew.

My 15 seconds of video is on YouTube here.

*Listen to Cara tell of her 1st trip to Paris and her encounter with writer Romain Gary - what a brave and resourceful woman.

Then curl up with Murder in the Sentier someplace safe and cosy and read all about murder and mayhem preferably with a cup of tea and some biscuits...

Jacques Demy

2013-05-06T04:13:00.005-04:00

Staying with the theme of love, romance and Spring don't miss with a visit to the Jacques Demy exposition at the musee de la Cinémathèque Française. Who hasn't seen The Umbrellas of Cherbourg at one point or another? If you haven't you can catch it at the cinemathèque with your entry ticket to the exhibit

51, rue de Bercy Metro Bercy #6

The story of boy filmmaker, Jacques Demy meets girl filmmaker, Agnes Varda could not be more endearing...

In her own words...

Demy's earliest film efforts are displayed in a facsimile setup created in his attic at age 13. "It was alone in his attic young Jacques began to make short animated films, including Attaque Nocturne, in the tradition of films painted on celluloid. His desire to make films in 1949, next led him to Paris where he took classes at the École Technique de Photographie et de Cinematographie."

Throughout the exposition there are loads of interactive displays with film clips, headphones, sketches and storyboards many drawn by Demy himself.

Jacques Demy comes across altogether a tres sympathique guy passionately committed to creating his vision and supporting his actors in every way.

Catherine Deneuve, his main muse, appears in many of his films...

"Jacques is the first director who really looked at me, who really saw me. Something brought me to light, and gave me the self-assurance I could do something and confidence I could really do something I didn't really believe in, not because I had doubts but because I had a much deeper doubt about being able to do something special, about being unique".

Demy was mad for Hollywood and Marilyn Monroe. He made Jeanne Moreau over to replicate her in appearance, voice and gesture for Des Baies des Anges.

There's artwork to compliment and reference the films like Rual Dufy's Baies des Anges in Cannes. Other artists represented:Jean Cocteau, David Hockney, Alexander Calder, Niki de Saint-Phalle.

Costume sketches like Anouk Amiee's fabulous corselet from Lola..

Plus the elaborate costumes from Demy's fantasie period film, Peau d'Ane

With Deneuve again...

Sets if course and the amazing wallpapers specially designed for each film.. "For The Umbrella of Cherbourg, 90% of the papers were specially printed with the color we wanted. When I said to the production that I needed about 15,000 Francs worth of papers in a total sets budget of 120,000 Francs, they told me I was crazy. But that's where the money had to be spent; for the rest, we were sure we'd manage." 1981

The gift shop is a joy to behold, selling multicolored parapluies and the wIld hats worn by the sisters in 'Cherbourg'. On Saturdays at 5 there's a singing duo to accompany you through the exhibit (in French bien sur). And as previously mentioned your entry ticket can be used to see whatever films are playing that day in the Cinémathèque Française. A don't miss exhibit for total French immersion in my opinion.

Are Fr Men More Romantic?

2013-05-05T08:58:00.002-04:00

After four months of living in Paris I've come to the conclusion French men are more romantic.

If more romantic means openly affectionate and demonstrative...

There seems to be a lot of it going around - displays of affection...

Do French men have 'attachment issues'?

Long term maybe they're like all the other mecs/guys out there.

But short term I would say not...

Hand holding starts early.

I'm basing my theories on what I see, but it seems French toddlers are out of their strollers much sooner and out and about earlier.

Parents slow down to walk at the child's pace.

Time is taken.

And there's lots of hand holding right off the bat.

Lots of tactile contact

Could this effect later relationships?

Why not?

I didn't pose this 'Doisneau Kiss' nor arrange the back lighting...

On the other hand, French dogs seem much less romantically involved with each other or physically attached...

Being an extraterrestrial in Paris can lead to odd conclusions...

What do you think PBers?

Your opinion requested.

Paris Pinks

2013-05-03T14:47:00.005-04:00

Almost all these pics were shot today so maybe we can say Spring has sprung?

Waiting to cross the street at Metro La Muette in the 16th a bevy of 'ados'/adolescents in their KEDS.

Shot yesterday at the Victor et Hugo stand in Printemps department store..

You need greens to make your pinks stand out - pretty Muguets along rue des Archives in the Marais

Pinkie-coralie raw silk scarf in BHV. The guard is about to tackle me but gives up. Must be Spring Fever...

Giant pink rose lollipop inside BHV.

Little French girls in pink ballerinas on the Champs-Élysées last week..

The same day 365 Dresses and I broke down and got ice cream cones at Haagen-Dazs (Mango Framboise). It was hot!

Today not so hot. People are still wearing coats. Leche-vitrine in action.

At chocolatier Mazet. Only in Paris do people try to walk through glass with such..intensity. Well that's what I think.

A beautiful Spring fraisier at Patisserie Pain de Sucre 14, rue Rambuteau.

Macaron earrings in all flavors at Le Paris Gourmands 15, rue des Archives.

Kwanzen cherry blossoms full-blown last week at Square Marie Trintignant 75004

You can find every garden and square in Paris (and Lyon) with CityGardens app (free).

BONNE WEEKEND PBers!

Cara et Murder in rue de Paradis

2013-05-02T09:28:00.000-04:00

Cara Black took this photo for the cover of her mystery, Murder in the rue de Paradis.

On Monday we both took photos of this doorway in the 11th...

Author Cara Black is in town to research and reconnoiter for her next book. I know Cara claims in interviews that she is NOT her main character PI Aimee Laduc but I'm not so sure. Hmmm...

They're both fearless, fierce and determined to get their killer or in Cara's case, the story.

Cara/Aimée doesn't miss a trick either. She spotted this bit of graffiti, 'amour' that I waltzed right by. The entry way above was once the stables for Marie Antoinettes horses.

If there's a sign announcing L'INTERDITE - PRIVEE - PERSONNE/ forbidden, private, no one allowed, Cara's on it like a cat on catnip.

I hung back hesitating...a scaredy cat.

One courtyard was filled with old workshops, some going back to the 17th century and certainly around during the 2nd world war. French craftsmanship has a way of turning up in Aimée Leduc mysteries. We always stopped for a look and a photo at any old workshops in passing. Paris' underbelly is Cara's turf not mine but it's great fun to follow along and discover new hidden places connected to the stories in her books.

We stopped for a coffee in a nondescript cafe.

Cara disguised herself in my new glasses (they look good on her) and my macaron bracelet...

Today I went looking for rue de Paradis in the book and explored the 10th arrondissement a bit. I stayed across from Brasserie Flo in this quiet passages des petites Ecuries mentioned in the book.

The book starts off in rue de Paradis and these china shops play a big role. Some are quite grand and carry Baccarat etc. This area is a mix of old world and Bobo. You'll find new Mexican and Corsican restos, the popular veggie Nanashi next to quite traditional china shops.

There's a Paris map of the quartier in the front of each of Cara's mysteries...

I wish they were more detailed and illustrated like this Gien china pattern I spotted in the Cristallerie boutique on rue de Paradis.

We parted ways at this doorway. Cara was entering another forbidden courtyard. I watched as her khaki trench coat and khaki converse drifted smaller and smaller into the vista...

The next day, like a sleepwalker, straight from the pool I went to Galeries Laffayette and bought myself a khaki scarf (12€), khaki straw hat (10€) and khaki T (Uniglo 9.90€).

You too can try pass yourself off as P.I. Aimée/Cara.

*And don't forget to read Murder in the rue de Paradis while your at it. You won't be able to put it down. These books are addictive. And no way can you skim or read back to front as I usually do.

You'll miss way too Paris secrets!

Paris Sketchbook Jason Brooks

2013-05-01T09:47:00.001-04:00

It doesn't matter where you look, Paris is such a visual feast.

Jason Brooks' Paris Sketchbook manages to capture so many aspects every which way in line and silhouette.

It's true bevies of beauties are everywhere...

The Metro is the perfect place to people watch...

Jason Brooks, a renown international fashion illustrator for Elle and Vogue, would fill endless sketchbooks while in Paris covering the couture shows.

Photo by Elliot Erwitt
His sketched umbrellas remind me of this fab photo.

(Help me remember the photographers name please).

Of course Paris' beloved Eiffel Tower shows up throughout the book along with travel tips...

In rain or shine (yesterday it was rain on the menu).

And bien sur Paris lovers...

Seen everywhere....

Paris is kiddie town as much as a lovers paradise...

The lineups of school children tearing off to museums or the Metro is well-captured by Brooks.

And Brooks' perfect pastries sketches are just as pretty as his fashion drawings and architecture. There isn't much Brooks can't draw. He gives you the feeling you're in Paris looking over his shoulder

Munch..munch...

Do take a look at Jason Brooks' Paris Sketchbook.

A perfect immersion for the Paris-obsessed.

Paris Boots Forever

2013-04-30T08:52:00.001-04:00

So it's April 30th PBers. Like practically Summer and all of Paris is still wearing their BOOTS!?

What's up with that? I shot these pics this morning. It's in the 50's and sunnyish so why all the boots Parisians?

If you just arrived in Paris and didn't bring your boots, turn around and go home. Get em!

I mean it. Parisians are dead-seriously dedicated to their boots.

Boots with tights. Boots under jeans. Over jeans. You name it.

Look! Galeries Lafayette wants you to buy Summer boots aerated with tiny holes. Bet that makes them super cool..

I asked this woman if I could shoot her Fab boots. No problem.

I asked this Galeries Lafayette sales girl if I could shoot her bleu suede shoes?

She asked "why?"

I said, "Oh, you know... I have a blog..

I'm an American...I'm crazy".

Finally she agreed ;))

Uggs in April in Paris!??? Who knew?

Honestly fur-lined high suede boots? Come on

So what are Parisian girls gonna wear when the temperature rises besides skate boards?

These?

Or these?

I'm holding my breath. It could be Boots. Qui sait?

Ooopla This girl was wearing boots - check

But slurping her Starbucks on the Metro

A Big no-no. Definitely an outta-towner

When in Rome PBers...

L'Éclair de Génie

2013-04-29T03:55:00.002-04:00

It was rainy and damp last Friday when I visited L'Éclair de Génie 14, rue Paviée 75004

But inside all is bright and cheery. The éclairs are displayed like art objects in an art galerie and so they should be.

No kidding. Each one is a work of art. L'éclair caramel beurre salé is the top seller. The buyer in front of me cleaned them out.

L'éclair Vanille Noix de pécan is another top seller with caramelized American pecans and vanilla from Madagascar.

I was flirting with this strawberry creation...

But I fell hard for éclair de Maracuja. With passion fruit and a Brazilian name who could resist? Adding in éclair Rouge Framboise, what better way to beat the bad weather?

I got a little nervous when the vendeuse put my éclairs into a plastic bag imagining them arriving home battered and bruised. I was assured not to worry. Hmmm...

I was surprised to read the éclair was crowned France’s most popular pastry in 2012.

Please *note the ovoid arch-shape when you cut into any éclair.

All became clear when I boarded bus #69 to head home trying desperately to protect my éclairs from rush hour crowds.

Paris is chock-full of éclair-shaped arches! The bus #69 will take you past at least a good 10 éclair-arches.

There's no getting around it. Cross any bridge in Paris and how can you not think éclairs? It's a given...a fait á complet!

This archway at the Louvre.

Walk through and your brain will whisper subliminally,

"eat éclairs...eat éclairs..."

That monster éclair-shaped arch - Paris' beloved Eiffel Tower. But of course the éclair is France's best loved pastry. No question about it! Is there any other choice dear PBers?

I was delighted to find my éclairs arrived home in perfect condition. And they tasted even better. Even after a couple of airborne somersaults. L'Éclair de Génie are a bit shorter than your average 15 cm éclair. More like 11 - 12 cm of deliousness. I found this a plus. Some éclairs are too much of a good thing. They can be too heavy, too sweet. These were just right. Chef Christophe Adams has been creating les éclairs at Fauchon for 10 years before he opened L'Éclair de Génie, so he should know what it takes to make the perfect éclair.

Do try them out PBers.

And immerse yourself in a Paris arch or two while munching...

For more éclair stories:

éclair obsession

éclair a day diet

éclair plaque chocolat

Picard 101

2013-04-28T02:24:00.000-04:00

Listen up PBers. This could be an important Paris leçon. If you plan to rent an apartment in Paris, even for one week, you NEED to know about Picard. Who wants to eat out every night?

Granted I rented apartments in Paris short-term many times but Never figured out Picard. I used to go in, look around, always when it was empty(?) and think,

"What is this? A dental surgery? Get me outta here vite!"

But Bear and I have come to know dear Picard quite well these past months. We're in there almost daily. On occasion twice daily just to check the ice cream case. More about that later...

Here's a special fav of ours - Alaskan cod. Just pan fry it and add their Provençal roasted vegetables (microwave em) and you'll be sooo happy. Picard's frozen food is like nothing you've seen in the US or elsewhere I bet. They have canard if you've got an oven. The selection is humungous and pas cher de tout (cheap).

Tons of BIO (organic to us) stuff like these veggies under 2€ for a big supply of spinach. I'm addicted to their epinards branches bio.

How bad can that be for you PBers?

Clever Picard portions out the spinach and other products into these nugget-shaped things instead of one massive clump. They must love single peeps and couples. Personally this could be a good pickup place IMHO. I see lots of cute guys/beau mec shopping.

Picard is Paris' Trader Joe's (900 stores in France). They always have new tempting seasonal stuff like whole cooked lobsters from Canada during holiday season and Coquille Saint-Jacques in the shell! All kinds of deluxe mushrooms ready for the micro. It's well known many a fancy schmancy Parisian dinner party got their fare at Picard. Chef Marthe said she was eating at her daughter's and asked how she made the main course.

"Oh it's Picard. I tweaked it".

Oh and about their ice cream...ahem

It just may be the best on the planet. I kid you not. Please try the coffee/cafe (only 2.80 for a litre!!) and let me know what. Inquiring minds etc,

They have 'dixie' cups if you're watching your weight and don't trust yourself with a full litre (2 euros). The vanilla with macademia caramel is to-die-for. Darling Carla Coulson says all French moms-to-be are told to stock up for 6 months so they won't have to cook once the bebe arrives. I'm not enceinte but my freezer is jam packed...

Fancy pants chef Francois Theron is creating special flavors like Speculoos (!!!) for a mere 4.50€ - the same price as 2 bols de Bertillon you can hardly see.

Disclosure: I am not in the pay of Picard nor do I get any free ice cream (quelle dommage) so don't get the wrong idea PBers.

Bear's favorite bedtime reading is Picards latest newsletter and mine too. Good way to practice yr French non? Hmmm...

"Palette de rouges, de jaunes et verts. Les légumes bruts ont la part belle chez Picard. Cueillis au meilleur de leur maturité, bla bla bla

Modern Art Desserts

2013-04-26T20:53:00.004-04:00

The late Friday edition - I'm so happy for the 6 hr time difference...

Here's another Don't Miss PBers.

The Keith Haring exhibit at MAM - le Musee d'Art Moderne.

I can just hear you saying,

I am not coming all the way to Paris to see an American artist! No way.

I know, I know. I went reluctantly myself but got swept away by the enormous energy

So much vitality and downright positivity (I hope that's a word)...

It makes you feel extra proud to be an American - all that 'can-do' spirit is ever present in Haring's work.

And boy did he work - so prolific! I didn't know he painted sculptures and huge ones at that, plus murals everywhere including Paris.

And for very good causes - for AIDS awareness, stamping out crack cocaine, South Africa, you name it. And Haring supported the hip hop/rap movement as a positive change from crime and drugs. This guy was immensely pro-active in every possible way. Plus his bold color sense is riveting. You can't help feeling deeply energized when you leave.

So how does that bring us to these gorgeous tartes? In this town art and pastry are joined at the hip. Well maybe that's not the best cliche. My hips certainly feel the connection. But pastry chefs in Paris know their color wheel and their creations are works of art.

Even the Paris Opera chose American artist (and a big favorite of mine) Wayne Thiebaud to illustrate their posters all over town for Hansel and Gretel. What a clever and sophisticated leap of faith. I was floored when I saw these.

And isn't Caitlin Freeman (also from San Francisco like artist Thiebaud) a clever duck to come up with cakes that illustrate many famous tableaux!

Her table of contents is like walking through the best art gallery.

And it's all edible! What's not to love. I wish I baked. I wish I had an oven and not just a microwave...

Nevermind.

You can make these arty cakes!

And don't miss Keith Haring when in Paris!

Bonne Weekend PBers!