paris breakfasts

Frederic Desessard of Giverny

2013-06-18T12:52:00.002-04:00

I used to be quite obsessed with miniatures...

Painting them...collecting them

So in the massive gift shop at Monet's Giverny

When I came upon a miniature version of his atelier...

I was quite smitten...

Never mind. As I headed back to the bus for Vernon

The very road I'd been in such a tear to get to Monet's maison looked completely different.

Well I hadn't noticed it at all...

Or the enticing signs for B and Bs along the way...

Sometimes taking the road less traveled leads you right past the bus without realizing and you make some wonderful discoveries...

Like this little shop of Frederic Desessard, full of miniature tableaux.

Each more charming than the next!

Lots of greenhouses and conservatories of course...

All very Victorian of course.

Full of British bits and bobs...

And of course an Eiffel Tower is required.

Mini painting sets anyone can afford if you can't spring for the full room.

Every single item is made from found objects.

In M. Desessard's own words:

The miniature life scenes that you are going to discover in this gallery are made from waste-materials such as cork, plastic, metal fragments, wood, cloth, paper and cardboard.

I hope you will be surprised to see what we can accomplish with these every day objects.

My work is usually concentrated in the years 1940s and 50s.

During that period there was a multitude of original objects found in houses, barns, garages and on verandas unique in their style.

Please enjoy you visit and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask me.

Bonne visite a tous

F. Desessard, Giverny

What a delightful obsession!

Sometimes it works out for the best to wander a little off the beaten path. Of course I found the bus eventually ahem...
Frederic Desessard
L'Universe Miniature
81 rue Claude Monet
27620 Giverny

Paris with Children

2013-06-17T10:02:00.001-04:00

Paris is a kids city.

We love to think of Paris as super glamorous, sophisticated and romantic, but that's not how it seems after 6 months here. There's so much to do for kids (and for our inner kid). Most French families have an average of 3 children - a jolly threesome of kidlets.

Dejeuner sur l'herbe for these school children at Giverny where they get in free under the age of 7. When I stopped in the tourist office why was I surprised to see a pretty green round table laid out with crayons and coloring pages of French historic sights? Kids get perks everywhere you go in France. Almost every exhibition I've visited has free games for kids related to the exhibits.

There's no reason to think twice about bringing children to Paris. And Kim Horton Lavasque's new Paris with Children lays it out for you area by area:Louvre-Tuileries, Marais and Bastille, Notre-dame, Latin Quartier, Saint-Germain, D'Orsay, Eiffel Tower, Champs Élysées, Montmartre - where to play, stay, eat, shop in detail.

I've never seen a town with so many merry-go-rounds. If there's a park usually there's a merry-go-round somewhere. All aboard! Paris has like 600 parks. (Do get the wonderful free Paris park app called CityGardens) Who isn't a kid at heart anyway?

Nor have I seen so many scooters with both kids and grown ups.

Is there another town on the planet with as many pastry and chocolate shops? So much joy and whimsy.,

More whimsy. Why I feel so at home here. Ladybugs for everyone.

Red riding hoods galore whether on your back or in a theatre...

So much goofiness in Paris and great glasses for kids. I know, I'm wearing them.

Lunettes cookies! What's one to think? I really didn't 'get' it until living here fulltime how playful and childlike the French are...

So many toy shops to drool over. Wait I've already done that...

What I love about Kim's book is we can all get great tips from it. It's got the best collection of kids shops I've seen outside a Japanese bookstore and it's in English!

Is it only in Paris you see future ballerinas-to-be prancing down the street? I think so...

Giverny

2013-06-16T14:13:00.000-04:00

Along with painting color blobs onsite you can't go wrong doing little 2" thumbnails at such an auspicious place like Giverny.

Try to arrive at the correct train station in Paris when heading off to Giverny. Somehow I got the bright idea to go to Gare Montparnasse. Luckily there was a direct Metro line to Saint Lazare.

Monet was kind enough to draw and paint Gare Saint Lazare as a friendly reminder..

Even the little bus trip from Vernon is bucolic...

Once off the bus just follow the crowds. Don't go exploring yet. That comes later.

Do look down as you're following the gang. The road is lined with loads if iris hither and thither...

A very nice poster that explains better than anything I've seen elsewhere what were Monet's intentions.

I found myself attracted to the less formal parts of the garden...

Where planting was in process..

Looking out the windows makes you feel you're stepping into Monet's shoes...

The walls are covered with Monet's enormous and influential Japanese woodblock collection. Hokosai's cat gazes out the window...

Can you find the cat in Monet's egg yolk yellow kitchen?

Looking much like the cat in the print but now taking a nap on a peony pink poof...

It's peony season at Monet's Maison by the way. Check the flowering calendar.

I took the less traveled path by chance over the lily ponds.

There are plenty of quiet empty places no matter how many visiters...such a spacious garden.

The gift shop is spacious too but not a Monet dish towel in sight...

This book on Giverny is gorgeous by Fabrice Moireau.

And you can take home your own mini version of Monet's chat.

Giverny

2013-06-14T14:53:00.001-04:00

Do these blobs say Monet's Giverny to you?
I went day-tripping since the sun peeked out today and it is just 45 minutes away by train (stop Vernon at Gare Saint Lazar - look for track 22).

It's so close I think I'll go again to get my blob colors right. The Navette is conveniently waiting when you get off the train (8€ round trip). Another 15-20 minutes and boom you're there.

Again I'd suggest going on a weekday and bring a nice picnic. Officially you're not meant to eat on the grounds but if you're discrete and mind you're manners ahem...

You'll hear every language spoken under the sun but no one can top the birds singing. It's quite serene...

Here's my attempt at capturing 'en pleine aire' a bit of Giverny. Pronounce that Gee-vern-E please. G as in George not Give-vern-E.

A closeup of my painting setup since some of you asked. There were tons of French school children visiting. One of them passed by and said,

"Tres bien Madame!" Everyone giggled.

Shall we go inside Monet's house?

I can't resist these old photographs. They capture so much words can't...

Monet's painting atelier...

Et voila, voila...

The views out the house windows are spectacularly gorgeous

Don't forget to take a look.

Of course you're not to take photos inside the house.

I got yelled at by the American docent (quite loudly I might add). I think she was trying to make an example of me but she was barking up the wrong tree. I am on a mission and can't be stopped unless threatened with bodily harm.

Of course I found some ice cream,

Though I doubt very much it was 'home made'. The so-called 'Mango' was really vanilla. We won't go into what the pink stuff was but hey as long as it says ice cream it's OK with me.

More Giverny to come soon!

Dress Yourself in Reds

2013-06-13T15:25:00.001-04:00

Do we eat apples because they're sexier?

Yesterday the Guardian said red art sell for much more at auction than non-red paintings and that they're 'sexy'. According to Sotheby's art expert Philip Hook, the colour red also sells. Plugging the upcoming sale at Sotheby's of Mondrian'spainting Composition with Red, Yellow and Blue, he told reporters that the more red a painting flaunts, the higher the price it is likely to fetch.

I'm now on the lookout for Aixoise emigres like this gal in the Metro. Mille Red Riding Hood is a long way from home. Hope she doesn't meet M. Loup/wolf...

There was TONS of red at L'Art du Jardin in Grand Palais - Merci's red car loaded with complimentary colored greens...

A red tomato/carrot bouquet...

And a red 'flower' chair at the show. Just don't sit on it. You'll crush it!

Mom and son look-alikes toute en rouge

Dad is matching bébé at the show. It would be appropriate to dress yourself in reds at a garden show full of greens. It makes color sense doesn't it?

Though it seems odd that a 'Keep Calm' sign would be in tomato red?

Red trench coats are out in full force in Paris. It poured today...

Friend Patricia looks swell in front of this turquoise wall.

Provencal strawbs last night...

And sighted today the 1st fraise du bois/wild strawberries of the season at Maison Stohrer on rue Montorgueil

Just a touch of red will do in Paris...

Looking very rouge et noir with this smidge of a red skirt and black boots.

What 2 Eat in Aix

2013-06-12T12:40:00.004-04:00

What to eat in Aix?
Fruit fruit fruit! Olives are a fruit too you know...

Abricots are fabulous here! Last night I got to taste fresh fresh fresh apricots from a fruit grower in Provence who supplies Galeries Lafayette Gourmand, Thibaud Piqué Selection. He said his fruits (cerise, melon, strawberry varieties etc.) were picked ripe off the tree yesterday. And to eat them today (note the pit above). His father and uncle have been growing fruit for 40 year. Nothing tastes like fresh off the tree does it?

Eat ice cream in Aix! Very refreshing in the heat. Giovanni Gelateria on the far end of 47, cours Meribeau, the main drag. and Aix & Terra has excellent ice creams fruity flavors. Both were at the salon Côté Sud event thanks gawd...

Here's a regional specialty not-to-be-missed, Delices de Provence - candies that look just like fresh green almonds but there's not any almond what so ever inside. Just a supremely lush melt-in-your-mouth ganache that will have you wanting more. I brought them back to paint but in a moment of temptation tasted one and boom all three were gone : ( I have seen them in La Mere de Famille but they cost a small fortune...hmmm

Save yourself a convoluted trip to Saint Tropez and eat the famous pastry, la tarte Tropezienne here on 15, rue Gaston de Saporta.

These were first created in 1955 and even as a non-cream eater they are very hard to resist. Fortunately they have minis...

So you can save on calories and not overdo it with the full-size Tropezienne...

For all those fabulous spreads like anchioade, tapenade, moutarde, exotic salts, amazing jams like melon and the best lemon curd ever you HAVE to visit Aix & Terra. They were at the salon and I stood there trying out every single jar on chunks of bread. Unfortunately certain people can not be trusted with a whole jar of jam and they know who they are. Still you will be different I'm sure and will not go hog wild woofing these down with a spoon by the sink etc....

Go to the Aix marche for the best all round food and buy yourself a picnic.

Fresh everything plus prepared foods and the famous herbs de Provence and calissons.

Then find a seat at a café and go to town eating all the regional specialties. Much better in my opinion than most of the touristy restaurants I saw overflowing with crowds.

Do pick up a typical Provencal market basket to show off when you get home. Everyone will be terribly envious and impressed at your boldness...

Make a watercolor blob while your at it just to get into the colorful swing of things...

And do buy a representative Provencal dish towel for heaven's sake.

What 2 Wear in Aix

2013-06-11T05:04:00.006-04:00

Next time I see a French gent dressed head-to-toe toute en l'orange (like in Fontainebleau) I will know this is an Aixoise far from home...

Chere PBers, when you head Sud do not go toute en noir like yours truly svp!

White/blanc = YES/oui but of course

Even if it looks like you stepped out of bed in your nightie, if it's white you're A-OK in Aix.

Neutrals OK if they are layered, flowie and you can pass as a 60s hippie gypsy.

White Panama hats are de rigeur

Any hat is preferred to none since "mad dogs, Englishmen and Aixoises like to go out in the noonday sun".

On ze feet, wear as little as possible.

Havaianas flip flops are the permanent flavor of the month here, so Brazilieras can feel right at home. The rest of us will have to shell out the 28€ for a couple of strips of rubber/plastic? to blend in...

Les kidlets can get away with wearing black evidently...

But most will be wearing a riot of colors as kids do anywhere in the world. So be it.

Dogs can come as they are.

No color is required.

BONNE VESTIAIRE!

Cote Sud Color

2013-06-10T04:56:00.000-04:00

For years and years I collected Côté Sud magazines. Oh why didn't I bring my stacks with me to Paris? ;(

It was all round thrilling to attend their Salon Côté Sud Vivre in Aix and as presse no less. It's still going on today so you can run there VITE!

The magazine has always been an amazing source of inspiration. And the Salon didn't disappoint.

COLOR COLOR COLOR of such intensity. The most beautiful combinations. These are from Les Toiles du Soleil. That's my fan btw. They have a divine shop on west 19th street in New York. I am marching over to their Paris shop toute a suite to get me some more COLOR! I'm in love...

La Table de Nana asked me if people were wearing linens and balloon trousers. How did you know? And why didn't you tell me ahead so I could blend in...

Jeanette, Mistress of Longears asked me what paints I travel with.

I take my basic Kremer paintbox (although I moved the pans (I only use pans but refill with Winsor and Newton tubes when traveling) into my mom's old paintbox. I do use Winsor and Newton Brt Sienna, Fr Ultramarine, Cerulean, Permanent Rose for their nice washy quality. I take only a small sketchbook 6" x 8" to do color studies and thumbnails in. Plus a bunch of old paint brushes on their last legs but I love Da Vinci Junior synthetics series 303. I use real artist grade colors. Would you buy cheap hamburger for your family? Never! So please think the same way about your watercolor paints.

Honestly PBers...tsk tsk

The natural colors of Provence are just stunning bien sur - small olive trees - I wanted to take one of these home...

The regional Provencal foods at the Salon were simply out of this world and not pricy. I couldn't find anything comparable near where I was staying. Too many touristy joints for the masses so I saved myself for the salon and lived on apricots and almonds...

My raspberry tarte and lemonade. but I also had tartines of tapenade, anchoaide, fig confit...miam miam

I could have really used one of these hats. Next time!

I did buy peach soaps on a rope from Cote Bastide. YUM

There were loads of soapy- spa items made from regional olive oils etc.

Of course the Rose was flowing!!

And PLENTY of ice cream/glace for tired, hot ole moi. Nothing like an ice cream to perk you up instantly is there? Do take a look at Cote Sud magazine for instant perks and mountains of inspiration!

Colors of Provence

2013-06-09T03:07:00.002-04:00

I got back yesterday from a two-jaunt to Aix-en-Provence to see the Cote-Sud Vivre salon (which was super FAB btw but more about that Monday).

I booked my last-minute accomodation through AIRBnB.

Have you tried them? Quite an experience.

They are really serious about the B in their name.

My room, in a beautifully decorated apartment in the historic section (deep, deep..like going through an endless maze to find it in the blistering heat) of Aix - my petite chambre/room was full of BEES!

I kid you not.
And the windows were closed? Why not let the bees find another place to sleep or was I sharing? Did my hostess forget to mention it? During the night a neighbor's cat came in the window for a nap on my bed. Shouldn't I have gotten a discount? I much prefer a chat to bees as a room mate anytime ahem..
So BEE it.

Oh well the little adventures of traveling. You just never know...And it's all part of the fun oui?

What really hit home to me were the brilliant colors everywhere in Aix.

Natch I brought my Paris black to wear = ALL Wrong in Provence.

I'll do a post on what YOU should wear dear PBers.

When in Rome etc...

There was both a flower market and a vegetable market on Saturday.

Both an utter delight. Just get out EARLY (like 8 am) before the hoards of tourist groups hit the cobblestones. Aix has become infested I'm sorry to report. Maybe like Bayeux it's way better to go during the week? Qui sait...

So many yummy shops often in brick red and yellow ochre...

Lots of tres charmante oldie-worldie cafes to hang out in...

The endless choices of regional delights is well..endless. Calissons d'Aix is top of the list made of almond paste and melon-flavored.

I just noticed my little box says I must eat before 12.5.14.

Oooopla I misread that as 12.6.13. Being semi (very semi)-dyslexic has it's advantages. I just woofed down my delicious quartet of Calissons...

Beautiful heads of garlic in the marche none of which I brought home since I still have garlic from the Agricultural Fair in March...

I did buy these irresistible sun-dried tomatoes. The seller said to first reconstitute in water and then olive oil, but I love the way they look as is, so may never use them...

It can get blistering hot in Aix so do bring your parasol PBers unless you like having sunstroke which doesn't agree with all of us.

Here's the instructions my host sent to help find my lodgings in the old town.

What do you think?

How to get from TGV Aix-en-Provence to XXX's Apartment From TGV station:

Catch Navette (shuttle) to Gare Routiere.

Note: The Gare Routiere bus stop is in a new location while the old bus station is being renovated. The navette will drop you at the number 11 stop next to the Hotel d’Police (Police Station). You are now on Avenue de l’Europe but there are no signs.

Walk up the hill, past Rue des Xllumettes and the bus information office on your left. Continue walking past all the bus stops until you get to the round-about at Square El Xadate, then turn left into Avenue des Xelges. Again, at the time of writing this, there are no signposts due to the renovation work.

Follow the Avenue des Xelges to the large fountain at the large round-about in the Place de Gaulle.

(I loved this next instruction!!)

*You will see a small group of trees on your left and if you wish, you can detour to the Tourist Office in the low building on the plaza behind the trees. (How did I NEVER find the tourist office?)

To continue, cross rue Xonaparte and follow the round-about where you will see the Le Xestival Cafe. (Oh sure)

Turn left here at Place Jeanne d’Xrc and you will see a small street called Rue Xspariate leading into the old city.

Once again there is renovation work and the signs maybe hard to find.

If in doubt then ask a local shop keeper for directions. (Hahahaha)

Follow Rue Xspariate (the streets are now well signposted) and then turn left into Rue Xedarrides. Follow along and turn left into Rue X Foch and follow to large old arch and clock tower that is attached to the Hotel d’Ville (Town Hall). Continue through the arch into Rue Gaston de Xaporta. Continue along and look for the Xstienne de Saint-Jean Museum on the left and just next to this you will see a small side street called Rue des Xremondis.

Turn left into this street and you will come to Rue de l’XXX, turn right and then immediately on the left you will see a low iron fence with gate. Enter here into the small courtyard and you will see the flat between X and X.

(Some names have been changed to protect the innocent...)

Bonne Chance PBers
Next time I'll try couch surfing...

Paris Tokyo cantine

2013-06-06T23:29:00.003-04:00

Hier soir/last night I went to an opening...

Have you ever wanted to look into the dome of department store BHV like this girl? I have...

Just go up to the 5th floor for Japanese tapas in their new cantine. The views are great!

Economi yaki omlettes with those wood shavings on top = delish!

And my absolute favorite little egg custards in mini cups with a big shrimp inside...what's the name of this? I know you'll know it. I haven't had this since Japan...so hard to find in NYC...

Of course the Sake was flowing thanks to Sakeologist M.Toshiro Kuroda. they broke open a special cask right then and there with a smashing of mallets on the lid...

I loved the decorative fan designs around the casks...

Which reminded me of this Pub Art exhibit at musee des arts decorative...

Everyone was dancing happily from the sake too

This girl was appropriately 'dressed' with tattoos of adorable TOTORO on her back...

Paper-thin omelettes were made on the spot. There will be a Manga bar and lecons in drawing manga cartoons with Kaori Yoshikawa later on...TBA

Desserts of course c/o master pastry chef Sadaharu Aoki.

We tasted perfect bite-sized pieces of these 6-layered delights. Plus an ice cream chaser of mango and vanilla I forgot to upload...how could I forget the ice cream(by Pedone)!? And green Sencha tea from the divine Thes Jigetsudo. Tea ceremony classes too at the cantine.

what to wear to the new cantine on the 5th? Just pick something out of BHV's vitrine of course!

Sara Midda's South of France

2013-06-06T11:55:00.001-04:00

Tomorrow I'm off early to Aix-en-Provence for Salon Cote-Sud Vivre

Does this look like Provence? It ain't. It's just around the corner from here on 'villa Juge'. Any street in Paris called villa will look a lot like you just stepped into the provinces - villagy and cosy with bright colors and shutters, so keep an eye out for 'villa' streets...

I've been collecting Cote-Sud magazines for years. They're simply gorgeous and full of visual inspiration. They were the hardest thing I had to toss when I moved here...

So I'm pretty thrilled to be actually attending the Cote-Sud event. I stayed in Aix eons ago for 6 weeks with Chantal Deltour. Bonjour Chantal!

Chantal took me for a delightful picnic on Cezanne's Mont St. Victoire. But it was impossible to sit down - all sharp thistles. I won't be doing that again. I will try to visit Cezanne's atelier this time...

I'm staying 2 days so perhaps I'll get to a marché...I still have the necklaces I bought at the marché...hmmm

Here's my assignment - to eat as many local specialties as possible. Do you have any favorites I shouldn't miss out on?

My absolute favorite book on the South of France is by Sara Midda.

It's maybe my all time favorite book.

Formated like a casual sketchbook yet every page is evocative and exquisite.

I dream of making my book like Sara's...

Sara Midda is British and a bit of a mystery. She does still illustrate many wonderful books but nothing quite as intimate as this one IMHO. A quiet genius. Definitely a labor of love...

If you've never looked at Sara Midda's South of France you have a big treat in store. It's an utter delight and there's nothing else like it out there either. Enjoy!

Bayeux

2013-06-05T09:56:00.001-04:00

I'm loving taking day trips out of Paris like Versailles and Fontainebleau. Yesterday's day trip took only 2 hours by train to Bayeux, Normandie. Instantly your whole frame of reference changes like stepping back in a time machine.

Go on a weekday and miss the lines and massive groups. You'll have the town to yourself.

The church is a must stop

After the obligatory look into a courtyard (a la Cara Black) I went on to forage for regional specialties. Shops close for lunch in these small towns while the museum stays open all day so treats come first like dessert.

A lovely Ciel Bleu patisserie

Where you can stop for tea and

A slice of tarte Normande/apple.

Would you believe 'D-Day' jam? Made of apple, pear, cider calvados and lemon.

After many tastings of caramel confit and Calvados in every variety including creamed I was ready to forget the Bayeux tapestries and just hang out.

I ended up with a lovely bottle of rhubarb jus with NO alcohol to speak of but major YUM.

Are these regal hounds waiting to get into the tapisseries?

Inside two more hounds of Baskerville embroidered on the tapestry...

70 meters long and from 1090ish.

You get an audio that describes every pictogram in the story of William the Great and Harold. The designs are riveting and completely contemporary in their sparse simplicity...oh what can one say other than pretty terrific!

Do not leave town without the essential Bayeux dishtowel (10 euros) though somehow I managed to. I'm still working on my Moulin Rouge dishtowel...

What to wear to Bayeux? Definitely not armor. You can probably get away with just about anything. Large groups of Brits coming over to catch their history in stitches so... As for lunch I'd recommend picking up something at the charcuterie on 8, bis, rue Larcher. Plus bread from the boulangerie. There are plenty of nice spots to sit outdoors by the museum and picnic. Most of the restaurants looked to be set up for large group seatings.

The railroad station is walking distance from town and easy to spot thanks to the traditional Hotel de la Gare (it looks like Inspector Maigret's kind of place).

Leaf Greens Paris

2013-06-04T01:35:00.001-04:00

Yesterday it was green, green, green in Paris.
Does anyone know anything about 'green' almonds?
What does one do with them?

This picture was shot a few Sundays ago when it was drizzling. I love the little green squares that pop up out of nowhere in Paris.

Pierre Hermé's Macarons of green apple, mint, cucumber and Rocquette. Next time I'll taste instead of shoot...

Yesterday at the Tour Eiffel. I got off the#42 bus several times to shoot the greens...

Love how Sadaharu Aoki plays with the color green...

Another bus detour for the building covered in greens near musee Branly - I think these are evergreen - year round greens.

Boissier green tins look like they were created in the 1890's. Were they?

Poubelle (sp)green is not the same word as pourboire,but I keep mixing them up...

Hermés latest Les Jardins box has real (?) green turf in it. You pay extra for this...

Green silk jacquard fabric on the walls of Chateau Fontainebleau.

I never noticed the patisserie across the street from me is forrest green! Le Figaro gave them 2nd place for their chocolate religieuse. I almost never go in but suddenly there were lines out the door. I was not bowled over I have to say but then the religieuse sat around on my table waiting to be painted for days - a definite no-no with French pastry which has a shelf life of about 24 hours.

Yesterday in Printemps I fell in love with this vendeuse's little grass green bows going down her back...

Today I'm off to see the Bayeux tapestries in Base-Normandie. I will try to eat every local specialty except les tripes, les moutons de mer, and espace d'andouilles.

No way will I miss out on le caramel d'Isigny!

L'Art du Jardin

2013-06-03T07:37:00.005-04:00

When I got back from Fontainebleau Saturday, I returned to l'Art du Jardin.

Experiencing the exhibit on press day was very much 'serenity now'. But I wanted to see how it felt with loads of people everywhere.

And there were loads. Plus a very long line outside waiting patiently. Yet it still felt peaceful and serene within.

Quite a few unusual structures were created to help compliment the Grand Palais' high ceilings.

The most interesting was this tree house. Again long lines waiting for a chance to climb to the top - just 4 people at a time plus the guide (who mentioned she was getting vertigo!).

The French are very good at waiting and evidently not afraid of heights. I'm neither of these so I didn't wait. There was another tall pillar-like column filled with intense scented plants and flowers and almost completely dark inside. That I experienced on Thursday fortunately. But lines were again long.

Back down on terra firma, beautiful roses...

Of all kinds and all for sale for your balcon or terrasse.

Or if you have room for a lilly pond...

Buy these!

If not you can make do with lilly pad earings.

Everyone was shooting like crazy.

And there were artists showing work that hadn't been there on Thursday.

French families were present en mass from the tiniest bebe to all ages. No dogs though ahem. Paris Chronicles said if your first name was a flower or plant you got in free! There is to be a l'Art du Jardin next year, by the way, so plan accordingly.

Chateau Fontainebleau

2013-06-02T12:37:00.003-04:00

Tarte Rhubarbe, watercolor, 9" 11"

Yesterday I went to Fontainebleau again. If you have a monthly Metro card, on the weekends you can travel free within the Ile de France region on trains and buses. Friday is NOT considered the weekend by the way.

Who knew Fontainebleau had such gorgeous pastries? Strawberries plus a raspberry set on top of a caramelized rhubarb base with a poof of créme brûlée vanille. Where was my crust person when I needed you?

Like Versailles, this is a very pretty town with lots of pedestrian walkways and tiny shops.

An event was going on - Festival de l'histoire de l'art - but it turned out to be all lectures and no art. So I decided to take a stroll through the chateau where there is heaps of art..

Including a plate room

The walls are covered with embedded plates d'accord.

And of course there is ice cream at the chateau. This is the same company at L'Art du Jardin, Versailles and Rond Point in Paris - La Ferme de la Metarie, with 16 hand-made BIO fruity sorbets, perfect for a hot afternoon.

Dressing in one color is quite OK in Fontainebleau as well.

Though I think he should have been hanging out near the orange tea tins at Chocolatier Frederic Cassel...

This beautiful white bouquet inside the chateau...

Looks a lot like the specialty of the town, Le Fontainebleau made of fromage frais and crème fouettee(crème Chantilly). I wish there were signs when you enter a French town, that instead of welcoming you, reminded you not to not leave until you ate such and such specialty. Now I have to go back and taste this! HMPH.

L'Art du Jardin

2013-05-31T00:42:00.004-04:00

If you're in Paris don't miss the spectacular L'Art du Jardin at the Grand Palais until 3 June. Words can not describe the beauty or creativity. C'est comme ca.

La Pomme de ma Tante

2013-05-30T12:16:00.002-04:00

Apples today and jardins tomorrow...I need to paint a flower Ooopla.

We went to the Apple lady in the marché before getting lost on the way to Versailles yesterday.

What better snack to take than apples and handmade apple jus pur?

And everything comes from her farm in the Loire Valley.

She's really quite unique in the market with an extensive variety of apples

She has many regular customers, quite loyal too.

How else could she have such a big table? Comparable in size to the fishmongers.

I've always been a little hesitant to try her apples being still loyal to New York State apples myself...

But I gotta admit they are darn good. Some times you get the crazy idea that there are no other apples except New York State apples. It comes with the territory. Are you loyal to your state's apples?

This morning I ran a little test to see if I could bring home a chausson au pomme after the pool from boulangerie Pichard.

My loyalty to their apple 'danishes' knows no bounds. It rarely lasts more that a few feet from the bakery.

I thought maybe I'd paint it and popped it into my swim bag...

Remember the 'Marshmallow Test'?

5-year old kids were left alone for 15 minutes with a marshmallow and told they would get a second marshmallow if they didn't eat it? I know I would have flunked within seconds (a sure sign of one's future success if you could wait out the 15 minutes ahem).

Not only did I pass with flying colors but I only ate the apple compote inside! Wonder if it's too late to pass the marshmallow test at this stage in the game..?

Versailles Greens

2013-05-29T15:51:00.001-04:00

I went to Versailles today with Carolyn and Vanessa. The weather was most obliging wth a bit of sunshine.

You know you're on the right RER train (C) by the 18th century decor, but it's a good idea to also be headed the right direction. We were not. The signs can be confusing...nevermind. Just get off and change tracks.

The fountains are on during the weekends so you might wish to wait.

I decided to just do the gardens at Versailles this time, with all the hints of Spring in Paris. Immersion in greenery and Mother Nature was quite appealing.

I ended up riding around on the little train all over the grounds without ever getting off. My plans to paint onsite a la Eugene Boudin were squashed by a lack of benches and maybe a touch of Spring fever inertia.

It may be too early for the flowers but the greenery is sumptuous.

I highly recommend reading Heather Stimmler's Secrets of Paris PDF on Versailles before you go. All the details are nailed. Definitely buy your entry tickets online before you go and a round trip RER ticket as well. You'll still have to go through a long line to have your bag checked before entering the buildings (not the gardens). Bring a book! Heather's monthly newsletter is full of treasures. Well worth subscribing. I wouldn't miss it.

I would also suggest you take lunch so you won't have to wait on more long lines or search for a place to eat. We picked up some goodies in the marche which proved a blessing.

There may not be many flowers yet but there are plenty of sheep and joggers.

The town of Versailles is charming and worth a promenade.

Look for the Cours de Scents - an elegant gathering of shops just outside the perimeter of Versailles including Guerlain and Diptych.

Lenotre has much needed ice cream cones after your jaunt through Versailles...

The gent behind the counter saw me eying the macarons and offered me one gratis! Is it that obvious that I'm a devoted macaron fan. This delicate creation is from their Printemps/Spring collection - almond with a dash of jasmine inside.

I passed a small courtyard and thought I better do a 'Cara Black' and waltz right in. An unlikely place for a murder but very pretty instead. Sorry Cara.

More gardens coming tomorrow with the l'Art du Jardin opening tomorrow at the Grand Palais. Get your shovels out and start planting PBers!

Red Tuesday

2013-05-28T07:33:00.002-04:00

On grey, drizzly days like today there must be a general consensus amongst Parisians to throw on a touch of red.

Sit down in your reddest chair and prepare to have your spirits lifted. Isn't that what red does?

School kids are big proponents of the color red. I shot all these on the way home from the pool this morning. Fortunately my pool bag is red so I blend in...

The pool is near several grade schools. I pass lots of red riding hoods.

Red ridding hoodism starts around the same time as immersion into pastry shops = early indoctrination.

Red jeans work for boys...

And girls.

Vichy red checks are an everyday occurrence in Paris. They do not just appear when it clouds over nor do they have any political significance for those concerned.

Which Pantone red is preferred in Paris I can't tell you. Just bring something RED when you visit.

Red tartes are pretty common and also not weather-related. But it doesn't hurt having a quick browse of a red desserts in patisserie vitrines when it's overcast. You won't be disappointed.

I would not suggest putting your red tarte inside your red satchel even if they do match...

Remember I told you to pick up the daily free news at the Metro? Today's 20 Minutes announced that since Monday Café de la Paix is having a special petit dejeuner prix choc promotion for charity. Just 5 euros for a hot drink, croissant + OJ until 7 June. The Café de la Paix will match it in a donation. Look for those red news stands.

Have a cheery RED day PBers!!

The Best Baguette in Paris

2013-05-27T10:16:00.000-04:00

In today's PB post:

1. How to paint une baguette traditional

2A. How to speak French

2B. How to find the best baguette in Paris

3. Why the French don't get fat.

1. To paint une baguette place it right on your paper and trace around it lightly with your pencil. Start laying in your light warm colors with lots of water - yellow ochre, burnt Sienna etc. Darker cooler colors go on top.

2. Moving right along - How to speak French.

I Googled "French news out loud" and found Frenglish News = perfection.

Not only will you be able to read in French and English bits of the latest news but you can hear it and play it over and over.

Just what I was looking for.

2B. On to finding the best baguette traditional in Paris.

Thanks to Frenglish I charged off to Au Paradis du Gourmand in the 14th today. They are closed on Sundays

156, rue Raymond Losserand

Metro Plaisence Ligne 13 (take exit 5)

Isn't it funny how one thing leads to the next?

I'm not the world's biggest baguette eater but my curiosity got the better of me. What's all the fuss about?

On The Paris by Mouth tour Meg Zimbeck explained in detail what makes a great baguette.

Think: aroma, interior holes, outer appearance, and CRUNCH. The French are very big on crunch and crispiness. Who knew? Crustillante is the word to remember. You can use it for just about anything and get away with murder IMHO.

There were 203 contestents in the 2013 competition. Every baguette must fit the strict requirements of size, weight etc. By the way Meg Zimbeck was appointed to be on the jury which though quite large is a big honor. Or do they draw names out of a hat? I forget. Still Meg is the right person to be up there. Her tastebuds are the TOP!

Back to Au Paradis du Gourmand's baguette. Tunisian-born chef Ridha Khadher came to France at age 6 and started apprenticing at 14. The difference between his baguette? His takes 24 hours to make not the usual 5 hours. To me this was most flavorful and crunchiest baguette ever.

I thought I should do a some comparison tasting and stopped in 'bleu ciel' Boulanger Jocteur.

You can watch the baker making the bread as you pay.

On to Monoprix. I don't know if their MOF Chef Frederic Lalos makes the baguettes but I hope not. This was not an enticing loaf.

I nearly got knocked over by this guy running off with 5-6 baguettes from my local Alsacian boulangerie Maeder.

Again nothing to write home about. Honestly I would say take a trip to the 14th and try this fabulous bread. Everything else is dross. Well almost. I should taste more baguettes, being new at the game. As the winner of this year's competition, Au Paradis du Gourmand will be supplying President Hollande for a year and everyone else in the Elysees Palais with their daily bread. I'll be going back for more. The sandwiches and tartes looked divine too but I was trying to stay focused. I must say I now have flour over everything I own including my iPad.

3. As to why the French don't get fat.

If you start off from day 1 hanging out in pastry shops and boulangeries in your pousette, you won't behave as we do = Stark raving-famished for these goodies. It will be old hat to you. Very ho hum. You'll have built up immunity. Well that's what I think. I could be very wrong...

My Marché

2013-05-26T07:20:00.000-04:00

I bet everyone who lives in Paris thinks their marché is the best.

I'm absolutely certain I live near the best marché hands down. Marche Grenelle
Bd Grenelle 75015

The reason I moved to Paris is very simple. I wanted to have radis/French radishes and carrot rapée everyday.

Even though radis are grown in the Ile de France, the same Province Paris is in, the price fluctuates every week up and down like the stock market. They're available all through the winter too which I never expected. Usually you can eat them without washing.

Apricots are just starting to show up in the marché. Note in the corner 'ESP' . That's for Espana. People prefer their fruit and veg from France it seems. It's the law the origin must be stated for an item.

Cerise are new this week coming in from ESP and Grece so far. I tasted one and it was perfect IMHO. Still I'll wait a bit for the prices to fall...

There are lots of specialists in the marche coming in from the hinterlands. This chap is promoting his cooked-on-the-spot Aligot, a dish traditionally from the Aveyron. It's made of mashed potatoes, melted cheese, cream, butter and loads of garlic. Have you tried it?

This woman's specialty is escargot/snails and other seafood farci like scallops and moules.

The apple lady hails from the Loire vallee. She grows everything on her farm and produces endless variations on a theme - apple cake, jellies, juice, pate de fruit, you name it all apple-based.

I planned to come back and get some apples to paint but of course there was a big line. Next time...

Every single marche I buy une cuisse de poulet cuite from this woman hot off the rotisserier. Just hold up your thumb if you can't pronounce that mouthful when buying one thigh.

And I always get tabouleh from these Libannaise purveyors, who kindly throw in what we call a pita and they call pain. I'm addicted.

What to wear to the marche? It's still chilly here in the 40s-50s, so woolly scarf, coat and carry a pup under your arm.

If you haven't got a pup to carry at the very least have a pup on your shopping bag. It's de rigueur in the marche.

Bonne Sunday!

Ciel Bleu

2013-05-24T16:06:00.004-04:00

From Danny Gregory's An Illustrated Journey
Ciel bleu/blue skies, swallows, putti...that's what you'll find when you look up in some old-fashioned boulangers in Paris. I went out to hunt a few down today but there are many more to discover.

First stop in the 7th arrondissement at le Boulanger des Invalides Jocteur, 14 Avenue Villars, 75007 Metro - Saint Francois-Xavier

This place is buzzing. The environment could not be more delightful. But the pastries are as beautiful as the decor.

I got a sable praline cookie perfectly matching the peppy pink walls but tasting heavenly...

Next hop onto the #80 bus up to Montmartre to Boulanger Lional Cailles. The sign is tiny. You could so easily miss it but not the facade.

And the interior is one of the best with butterflies, be-ribboned croissants, floral tiles in cornflower blue.

The prices are old fashioned too which is awfully nice.

And very pretty.

The hunt continues in the 10th at the highly regarded Les Ideas et des Pain14, rue Yves Tudic 75010 Metro: Jacques Bonsergent

The pretty sky ceil is in heavy competition with the perfect pastries and breads, neck and neck. One doesn't know which way to look.

The twirly pistache - chocolate swirls are much loved, But I just got a savory walnut pavé with chèvre and tomatoes seché inside.

The perfect place to complete your hunt for boulangerie blue skies is the 18th century-styled Hotel Caron de Beaumarchaise in the Marais.

Isn't this heavenly?

Speaking of roofs over one's head, I must begin hunting for my next roof for September 1. I need to find another small studio anywhere in Paris. If you've heard of any available studios coming up do let me know dear PBers,

Bonne Soiree PBers!

Chanel Again

2013-05-23T16:48:00.004-04:00

So I went back with my carte d'identite/passport to find out what the Chanel exhibit was really about as requested.

I discovered more exhibits upstairs I'd missed first go round..

And more historical information from the audio tape which includes photos too. More about Chanel's romantic entanglements/liaisons...

Plus a reminder that Chanel was firstly set up as a hatmaker.

Even her hats were revolutionary. Utterly simple compared to what went before. Apollinaire wrote poems about her hats.

Chanel's hats were the cherry on top...

The finishing touch. We've lost so much elegance haven't we...

Catherine di Medici was a heroine to Chanel. She owned this little portrait and followed closely the severity of di Medici's black and white style.

You always see more the second time around don't you?

What was it like to walk in her shoes..?

Or work in her atelier?

Upstairs there's a gazillion reference books to browse on big comfy sofas. And a room to watch all the Chanel N5 videos - a delight.

If you work at the exhibit you get to wear Vans black and white sneakers which are very in again... What would Chanel think?

Murder in the Latin Quarter

2013-05-22T16:52:00.001-04:00

Private detective Aimée Laduc's back in town and duking it out in the Latin Quarter.

Hanging out with Aimée's creator Cara Black in Pigalle was a trip. She doesn't miss a trick. There's red velvet elevator in her Latin Quarter book described in great detail. Will this elevator in the Hotel Langoise we strolled into show up in a future mystery? Ya gotta wonder..?

Cara/Aimée is a bit of an imp. Yet there are can be serious political back stories in her mysteries. I appreciate that her victims are NOT stereotypically brutalized women or all prostitutes.

The 'Latin Quarter' or 5th arrondissement is Aimee's old university turf with scenes inside the Sorbonne. and scenes in the last remains of Roman ruins in the city like Les Arenes. Plus some underground shenanigans going on in the catacombs that you'll never get me to go down in.

Neighborhood cafes are featured since Aimee is big on espresso. So is Cara for that matter.

The main museum is the Cluny on 6 Place Paul Painlevé

There's a terrific scene late in the book with Aimee hiding out in the Frigitorium from her supposed villain.

Aimee could definitely wear a helmet full-time. she gets knocked about on her head way too much IMHO...

She runs around a lot hiding from her persuers...

I wish she'd wear some decent shoes for once..

Foiled again at rush hour on the #10 Metro is Aimee...

And Aimee Puleeze try to stay out of Parisian ambulances. Too much tripping, falling down, heels breaking and tearing of vintage Schiaparelli beaded jackets. Sensible this French girl is not.

Aimee does eat a pastry in Latin Quarter! OK, so it's a figue tarte but figs are not in season so you'll have to make do with apricot or strawberry.Be my guest.

Murder in the Latin Quarter is just as un-put-downable as the rest of Cara Black's Paris by arrondissement series. Right now the guardienne of my building is gobbling up the latest batch sent over from Soho Press but I'll soon get them all to myself. Can't wait! Maybe a tarte citron is waiting in the next bunch to devour. Qui sait?

How to Paint Like Eugene Boudin

2013-05-21T08:57:00.004-04:00

A little painting-sketching leçon today so you can draw like Eugene Boudin even if you can't make it over for the exhibit at Musée Jacquemart-Andréby July 22.

The day I visited the Boudin exhibit the sun was shining brightly..

Today it's continuous Paris drizzle but never mind. This is perfect to get you in a 'Boudin' frame of mind..

If there was another 19th century outdoor painter so in love with umbrellas I'd love to to know about it.

Is it only French rain that makes such nice shadow shapes?

Probably. This one mirrors exactly

The rough dog sketches of Boudin

That later turn up in a beach scene painting.

*Note at least 2 umbrellas...

Another rough preparatory sketch of Boudins that I copied above, first with tracing paper and then into watercolor. The iPad Mini makes a great little portable light box to trace from your photos or paintings.

1. Simply set up an album and pop just ONE picture into it.

2. Then go into your Settings,

3. Then Picture Frame

4. Choose - Show Each Photo For 20 seconds

5. Turn off your iPad in the corner

6. Press the 'flower' icon to start the slideshow (which will stay on that one picture so you can trace it wiggle-free).

Voila! Another reason to love the iPad mini.

No umbrellas in the finished painting but these are working class so...

Another pencil sketch of beach loungers with their umbrellas and a good one to copy. Boudin loved to throw in just a touch of red to liven thing ups among all the neutral colors. Plus red paint was quite pricy back then so you had to be judicious with it...

Boudin, himself sitting out on a dock. He was really the first to get everyone out of the studio and painting in 'plein aire' including his good chum Monet. Do note his umbrella of course...

At the museum shop you can get a full painting outfit a bit more upscale than Boudin's supplied by the delightful left bank art shop Charvin.

The museum shop does not have any Boudin umbrellas on offer but they do have this darling lampshade for about 69 euros. Why not just practice tracing Boudin sketches and in no time at all you can make your own?

This is my watercolor set, in case you're interested from Amazon. I do use other colors from Winsor and Newton like Burnt Sienna and Permanent Rose, which tend to run a bit more. They didn't have Boudin's paintbox at the exhibit but it's still a terrific show and worth a visit if you're into 19th century anything.