Paris Resto and Culinary

Merry Christmas

2012-12-30T08:17:00.000-08:00

I wanted to put reindeer antlers on Pancha but thought of it too late. This is our solution. We're off to beautiful Colorado for the holidays. Merry Christmas!

Pure Dessert

2012-12-29T23:29:00.000-08:00

I've said it before, but I'm in awe of Alice Medrich. She was an early chocolate evangelist in the Bay Area, who brought us luscious desserts and truffles, inspired by what she had tasted and learned in France. Over the past few years she has written several terrific and award-winning books on chocolate including Bittersweet, Chocolate and the Art of Low-Fat Desserts, and Chocolate Holidays.

Her latest book is a bit of a departure, it's not just about chocolate, but an exploration into the world of high quality ingredients. The chapters in Pure Dessert are focused on the flavors of Milk, Grain, Nuts and Seeds, Fruit, Chocolate, Honey and Sugar, Herbs and Spices, Flowers and Herbs, and Wine, Beer and Spirits. Intriguing, don't you think?

In each chapter is a discussion of the ingredients, the flavors and where they can take you. Best of all are the recipes, which are very simple, in part to highlight flavors and not confuse your palate. It's a celebration of the nuances that contribute to the flavors we love. Medrich is a true perfectionist with an almost scientific like approach, so you are unlikely to ever have trouble with one of her recipes. In this season of too much frosting, sprinkles and fluff, this book is refreshing. Recipes include, Cardamom Roasted Figs, Corn Tuiles with Salt and Pepper, Blackberry Buttermilk Sherbet, Hazelnut Whole Wheat Sables, White Chocolate Souffle Cakes with Chocolate Orange Sauce, and Guinness Ice Cream.

Today meet Alice Medrich at a book signing and dessert tasting(!) from noon until 2 at Fog City News

Fog City News
455 Market Street @ Fremont St
San Francisco
415.543.7400

An interlude, or what happens when she digs in her archives

2012-12-29T21:49:00.000-08:00

Last week I was tagged—not once, but twice—for the 23rd-post-5th-sentence meme, a nifty little game that would have me dig into my archives, find my 23rd post, pull out its fifth sentence, and analyze its meaning. Now, clearly, the universe wants to see me complete this task, and so, we’re off.A bit of perusal reveals that my 23rd post is a report on the 2004 Knight family lamb roast, opening

What is Natural poultry anyway?

2012-12-29T20:45:00.000-08:00

Last week there was a flurry of comments about a post in which my Thanksgiving expert Rick Rodgers mentioned "natural" in regard to poultry. Coincidentally while shopping for chicken I had someone ask me if natural was the same as organic. I gave her the short answer, which was "no". But there's a lot more to it than that. Even reading the labels can be confusing.

Natural, according to the dictionary, means functioning or occurring in a normal way or existing in or produced by nature; not artificial or imitation. But when it comes to chicken and for that matter turkey, natural isn't what you might think. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture the label "natural" means the food contains no hormones, antibiotics or artificial ingredients and is "minimally" processed. But that doesn't prohibit processors from adding sodium, carrageenan and broth or water to the bird. Perhaps those aren't artificial ingredients, but neither are they naturally occurring in poultry at least not in the quantities that end up in the bird.

In fact, up to 15 percent of the weight of the chicken can be an injected solution of those aforementioned ingredients. The salt and broth may make the bird taste better, but it's not great for those on a low-sodium diet. According to the Truthful Labeling Coalition, the sodium added is up to 822% greater than the amount that exists in natural chicken and one single serving can contain over 25% of the recommended daily allowance of sodium for a healthy adult. Plus you pay extra for a salt and broth injected bird.

I don't know about you, but I don't want "enhanced" chicken. I want to buy the minimally processed bird that Rick Rodgers recommended and I'll enhance it myself. It just turns out it might not be the one labeled "natural". I also think everyone should know just what has been added to the bird before they buy it. Last month quite a few members of congress agreed and sent a letter to United States Department of Agriculture, asking for better labeling and that the label "natural" not be used on these injected birds. You can add your voice to the cause, here.

Smoky Citrus Tea Shrimp: Recipe

2012-12-29T16:18:00.000-08:00

In a marriage each partner does certain things for the other. One of the things I do for Lee, my husband, is make him a pot of tea every morning. He simply cannot function without it. He rejects the idea of making it himself; when I make it he calls it "tea with the love". How I could I ever deny him that?

While I like drinking tea I don't drink it everyday as Lee does. But I do enjoy making it and I have long been fascinated with both the ritual of tea and the idea of cooking with it. Ever since making Indian style chai from scratch in college, I have tinkered around with recipes, such as Tea Smoked Chicken. When I had some powdered chai tea that was too sweet for me taste, I made some Chai Cookies with it. So I was really excited when this month's "Is My Blog Burning" event was announced with the theme (and pun) tasteTea.

I have several books about tea that include recipes, maybe three or four. One recipe really caught my eye, Smoky Tea Prawns using Lapsang Souchong tea as a sauce and cooking liquid from Tea: Essence of the Leaf. During this past week I received an offer from Adagio to try some of their teas and the tangerine flavored black tea not only sounded terrific, but seemed like the perfect thing to complement the shrimp. In the end I used both the smoky Lapsang Souchong and the tangerine tea. The tangerine tea is marvelously fragrant with large chunks of tangerine peel.

In addition to changing the tea, I also tweaked the ingredients adding some orange juice to bump up the citrus flavor. The resulting recipe is easy as can be and very impressive. Lots of tangy flavor and only minutes to prepare. Lee said it was "gourmet" and "would impress the judges on Iron Chef". Always being my biggest fan is just one of the things Lee does for me.

Smoky Citrus Shrimp
serves 2

2 handfuls salad greens
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
1 clove garlic, smashed
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 cup strong cup of Lapsang Souchong tea (I used Lapsang and tangerine tea)
1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
1 Tablespoon honey
1 Tablespoon soy sauce
1 Tablespoon orange juice
10 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
orange slices for garnish

In a medium skillet, melt butter over medium heat. When butter melts, add the garlic. Saute garlic until fragrant and just beginning to turn golden. Add orange zest and stir quickly with garlic, about 15 seconds. Add tea, vinegar, honey, soy sauce and orange juice to pan and allow to come to a simmer and reduce slightly, a minute or two. Add shrimp and continue to cook until prawns are opaque and firm, cooked through.

Place a handful of greens on each plate. Serve shrimp with drizzle of sauce over the greens. Garnish with orange slices. This makes a nice starter or serve alongside peanut sauce noodles.

Enjoy!

Super Bowl Onion Dip: Recipe

2012-12-29T15:25:00.000-08:00

What I consider "a super bowl" is not THE Super Bowl. It's a sophisticated little serving dish from Villeroy and Boch that's perfect for serving onion dip. I'm of the opinion you can never have too many bowls. Perhaps there is a food stylist somewhere deep inside me, struggling to be free.

Recently I had a creamy mushroom soup with chopped green beans and a topping of crispy onions. It was soup based on that classic, and in my opinion somewhat disgusting, Thanksgiving side dish, the green bean casserole. But the soup was delicious, proving some classics really are good if made with great ingredients. That was my idea for this dip which, coincidentally I served at Thanksgiving this year. But I think it would be great for that other major American holiday, Super Bowl Sunday.

I basically increased the seasonings and onions in a dip recipe I found on the Whole Foods Market website, which has lots of great ideas, by the way. The dip is filled with onions, leeks and garlic, a few seasonings and a rich and a creamy base that is vegan and healthy. Ok, it's tofu. I use a "light" firm soft tofu for a myriad of recipes, when pureed it becomes a creamy bland canvas, ready for flavor. This recipe is a good one for converting tofu-haters and for those who are looking for dairy-free recipes.

Onion Dip
makes about 2 cups

1 Tablespoon olive oil
1 large onion
1 leek
3 cloves garlic
pinch salt
12 ounces soft firm tofu, drained
1 Tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon soy sauce
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Peel and cut the onion in half. Thinly slice the onion halves, you should have about 2 cups of onion slices. Slice the white part of the leek and garlic. Heat a heavy skillet over medium heat and add the olive oil. Add the onions, leeks and garlic and sprinkle with a little salt. Cook the onions, stirring from time to time to keep from sticking until brown and caramelized.

Transfer the onion mixture to the food processor and pulse a few times then add the rest of the ingredients and blend until smooth. Taste for seasonings and adjust to your liking. Chill overnight in the refrigerator and serve with vegetables, potato chips or pita chips.

Note: If your tofu is very moist you may need to slice it and drain it on paper towels.

Enjoy!

Café Press Store

2012-12-29T04:14:00.000-08:00

I'm in the process of opening a Café Press Store that will offer greeting cards, calenders, bags and I'm not sure what else yet with some of the photos I've taken over the past six months.

This will take some time to work on but let me know what you think so far...
just click on the little button on the top right of the page.

I can also do coffee mugs, t-shirts and calendars. What do you think?

La Fête du Fromage - Trappe Echourgnac

2012-12-28T23:55:00.000-08:00

Smoky

That was my first impression of Trappe Echourgnac.

Nutty was my second.

Which would make sense as Trappe Echourgnac is matured in walnut liqueur from the Périgord.
And that isn't the only unique aspect of this week's cheese.

Also notable is that this cow's milk cheese is produced by nuns at the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Bonne Espérance (our Lady of Good Hope) in the Dordogne.
Previously, monks made cheese at the same site, then called the Abbaye d'Echourgnac, until war interrupted their lives in 1910. A group of Cistercian nuns took over the Abbey, changed its name, took up where the monks left off and began producing this special walnut liqueur infused cheese in 1999.

Trappe Echourgnac has a heady, smoky aroma and a smooth, buttery texture. Surprisingly, even though this is a rich cheese, the flavor is quite mild. I would happily eat it again!

A robust red Cahors is a good match for this aromatic cheese.

Photo du Jour - Winter Savory

2012-12-28T05:50:00.000-08:00

La sarriette, growing in our garden.

Winter savory is an aromatic perennial herb with a peppery, robust flavor. Some prefer its bold flavor to that of its softer flavored cousin, summer savory.
Add to creamy white beans or simmering lentils (it has properties that prevent flatulence), mix with roasted root vegetables or pair with braised pork and roasted chicken.

In Provence there is an amazing tasting sarriette infused goat's cheese called Chèvre à la Sarriette de Provence.

A Chef For All Seasons

2012-12-27T21:54:00.000-08:00

This Summer we were introduced to chef Gordon Ramsay in Hell's Kitchen yet another food-oriented reality TV show. I admit I watched it, drawn to it like a moth to the flame. But truth be told I was more curious about the cooking than the pathetic contestants or the sadomasochistic challenges and punishments. Ramsay is a notorious yet brilliant chef with several very successful restaurants in Britain. Now we finally get a taste of Ramsay's food instead of his fury in the paperback edition of A Chef For All Seasons.

The first thing that struck me about this book is the introductions to each season. They cover the fruits, vegetables, meat and seafood and even herbs that Ramsay likes to use in his cooking. He shares how and why he prepares them. It's almost like a mini cooking course. I read every single one of the intros all the way through. I also devoured the Basic Recipes and Techniques section where you can learn his recipes for things like peach chutney, citrus confit, classic vinaigrette and flavored stock syrups.

As for the recipes themselves, they are organized seasonally as the title suggests. Some of the ingredients are not exactly mainstays of the home cook, such as woodcock, pigs feet, squab or pheasant and others frankly I never heard of such as blewit mushrooms? But plenty of the recipes do not call for exotic ingredients or preparations and the recipe instructions are straightforward and very well written.

The Summer recipes I plan on trying in the next week or so include Roasted Figs with Cinnamon Shortbreads and the Roasted Sea Bass with Chive Creme Fraiche, Baby Potatoes and Artichokes. If you'd like to get a sneak peek at the book, you can check out his recipe for Pillows of Ricotta Gnocchi with Peas and Baby Fava Beans here. There is plenty in Ramsay's book to inspire and to learn from if you are curious about the cuisine of the chef behind Hell's Kitchen.

Za'atar:Recipe

2012-12-27T19:36:00.000-08:00

When I find a new ingredient I am intrigued. So it's not unusual for me to buy something I have absolutely no idea what to do with. Lately I have have been drawn to the Middle Eastern ingredients I've discovered in a fresh produce market. Last week I bought both a bottle of concentrated pomegranate juice and a spice called sumac.

Sumac is a plant with bright red berries. When dried and ground up they are sour and tangy, almost lemony. Sumac is the main ingredient in a spice blend called za'atar. It is composed of sesame seeds, thyme, sumac, salt and pepper. But it varies depending on who is making it. It might also include marjoram, oregano or cayenne. From what I've read za'atar actually means "thyme". It's often mixed with oil and served a dip with veggies or pita, but you can put it on almost anything, meats, eggs, potatoes, fish, salads or in a vegetable tagine. It's great sprinkled over feta cheese or over sliced white onions. I am crazy about it on toasted sourdough bread with a little butter.

You can buy za'atar in Middle Eastern grocery stores, spice store or online at your favorite spice seller but I think if you can find sumac (also available online or in Middle Eastern grocery stores) it's more fun to experiment and make it yourself. If you have difficulty finding it, at Penzeys you can get za'atar or sumac. Sumac is much cheaper at MySpicer but you have to buy in larger quantities.

Za'atar
2 Tablespoons sesame seeds
2 Tablespoons ground sumac
1 Tablespoon powdered dried thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
pepper to taste

Roast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet over medium heat for a few minutes, stirring frequently until toasty golden brown. Allow to cool, then mix with the rest of the spices.

Enjoy!

Photo du Jour

2012-12-27T18:54:00.000-08:00

La Journée National Slow Food in les Halles in Narbonne.

We handed out dozens and dozens of delicious, creamy, Mona Lisa, Eden and Hermine potatoes that had been steamed and drizzled with olive oil.

Photo du Jour - Pickled

2012-12-27T17:16:00.000-08:00

A big ol' jar of pickled pigs feet at Cochon Butcher.

La Fête du Fromage - Brebis de Cocagne

2012-12-27T08:38:00.000-08:00

Hold a morsel of this runny fromage de brebis up to your nose and breathe in the warm fragrance of earth and wild mushrooms. Place it on your tongue and savor its alluring, buttery flavor.

Brebis de Cocagne oozes charisma.

It also oozes all over the plate as soon as you cut into it.

Runny, gooey, delicious cheese. Perfect for spreading on bread.

There in no way that Brebis de Cocagne could be mistaken for anything other than sheep's milk cheese - it has that typical round, tangy, brebis character. Though the soft fragrance and texture masks a surprisingly gutsy, rich flavor.
I am smitten.

The region around Albi, in the Tarn is home to the producer of this unpasteurized fromage artisanal. A glass of dry white wine such as a dry Jurançon would be a nice match with Brebis de Cocagne.

Photo du Jour

2012-12-27T04:41:00.000-08:00

Fishing boats on the Étang de Bages.

TARTE TATIN RECIPE FRANCE part 2/2 YouTube Video VIDEOGULP !

2012-12-26T20:31:00.000-08:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zkxw_tIM0ZMendofvid
[starttext]
TARTE TATIN RECIPE FRANCE part 2/2 YouTube Video VIDEOGULP !

GULP - A classic recipe for Tartes Tatin - France chef - French dish -

HOMEMADE VIDEO TARTE TATIN RECIPE - FRANCE Cooking

Selection YouTube video Videogulp !
[endtext]

Brownie Points

2012-12-26T12:20:00.000-08:00

Living in a small village of 400 people in the south of France has its advantages and its disadvantages.

Disadvantages

everyone, and I mean everyone, knows your business
your neighbors always know if you're home or not - no hiding!
the épicerie owner knows if you have guests arriving by how many baguettes you buy on any given day
very slow tractor traffic
can feel like a ghost town in the winter when everyone is inside, shutters closed, huddled next to the fire
don't expect to run a quick errand to la Poste on the other side of the village without having to stop and talk to at least three people - a normal, 10 minute trip will take at least 30 minutes, so plan accordingly

Advantages:

the owner of the épicerie will let you take things home without paying because she knows where to find you
your neighbor the winemaker will deliver a case of his excellent Muscat Sec or Viognier right to your door
concerts at the church are a 30 second walk down the street
your neighbors (who know that you suck at gardening and take pity on you ) will leave lettuce, eggplant, green beans, fava beans, zucchini, cherries, apricots and tomatoes hanging in bags from your front door
the Poissonerie van on Thursday, the Poultry van on Wednesday, the Fruit and Vegetable van on Monday, the Pizza van Friday and Saturday nights
the mailman will deliver mail addressed to "Aunt Jenny, Our Village, FRANCE" - they must figure since it came from America, it must belong to les Américains
delivery drivers can pretty much ask anyone who we are and where to find our house
you can always have a quick snack of figs, which grow everywhere
your Mayor writes you a very nice, complimentary letter to the powers that be, in support of you becoming a French Citizen

Last time I was dealing with bureaucracy problems, I took Lemon Bars as a 'thank you' to the Mairie. I think this time some gooey, dark chocolate Brownies are in order.
Our Mayor deserves a giant Merci.

It's good to live in a small village.

Je Suis Française

2012-12-25T20:58:00.000-08:00

I still can't believe it.

I returned home from a shopping trip to Narbonne yesterday and the moment I walked in the house, husband held up an envelope and started singing la Marseillaise.
He must be mistaken, I thought. It's too early. The sous-préfecture said last May that it would take 1 more year to process my citizenship application and I had heard from several readers that they had to wait 2 years, 3 years, even 6 years.

I tentatively opened the envelope.

Madame,
J'ai le plaisir de vous faire savoir que vous êtes Française depuis le 30/11/2009.

Tears welled up in my eyes. I know that sounds silly, but it has been such a drawn out, paperwork-filled, frustrating journey to get here, I just can't quite believe it.
I am officially a French citizen.

The celebration has begun. Vive la France!

The Journey:
The First Few Steps Toward French Citizenship
Stumbled Already!
Picking Myself Up and Brushing Myself Off
Marseille - One More Step on the Path to French Citizenship
Life as a Stranger
French Citizenship Update
French Citizenship - One Step Closer
The Boys in Blue
French Citizenship - Chapter One Too Many to Count

Photo du Jour - Fields of Gold

2012-12-25T18:15:00.000-08:00

Slowly but surely the vineyards here in the Minervois are being ripped up and planted with olive trees, fields of asparagus and even hay.

The Good Home Cookbook: Giveaway!

2012-12-25T09:27:00.000-08:00

Some time ago I mentioned that the publishers of The Good Home Cookbook were looking for recipe testers. In addition to getting a first crack at the recipes, testers also got their names in the book and a copy of the book. Now the book is out and for a limited time only you can get a FREE COPY too!

The Good Home Cookbook is filled with American recipes that have been tried and tested by hundreds of home cooks. The story of how this cookbook came about is really quite interesting. This isn't a cookbook in which to find wildly new and exotic recipes, it's a solid book to refer to time and again, in the same vein as The Joy of Cooking and The Fannie Farmer Cookbook. Because America is a melting pot you'll find recipes inspired by the cuisines of many countries from Greek Baked Shrimp, to Sausage & Saurkraut Supper to Spaghetti Carbonara (which thankfully does not include cream in the recipe). I recently turned to it when looking for gingerbread cookies.

You can check out the Good Home Cookbook blog and by sending an email with your name and address to the editor, Richard Perry, you will receive a free copy of the cookbook. This offer is good through the end of November, and I imagine it is good only in the US. Get 'em while they last!

You can STILL get a free cookbook, though the publishers have reached capacity for the free cookbooks, they are running a contest for the best custom eggplant parmesan and macaroni and cheese recipe. The winners will get a free cookbook. Their name will be attributed to their recipe on the Good Home Cookbook blog and their recipe will be in a forthcoming cookbook based upon “spin-offs on the classics.” More details available on the Good Home Cookbook blog. Good luck!

FOOD

Photo du Jour - December Sunset

2012-12-25T02:57:00.000-08:00

Midnight blue skies at 5PM.

Basic Crepes:Recipe

2012-12-24T23:30:00.000-08:00

Crepes are popular all over the world. They are great for just about any meal at all, or even a snack. I've eaten them on the street in France, but also in Asia. In Holland they serve them in proper restaurants for lunch or dinner but never for breakfast.

Here in Japantown, there is a shop where you can watch crepes being made in a storefront window. People are mesmerized. It's the same in Thailand with street vendors selling "roti" another type of crepe. There is a big round flat cooking surface and the batter in ladled out onto it, a wooden spreader is used to get the batter thin enough and to cover the surface perfectly. In a matter of seconds it is flipped then flipped again, then filled and served. Popular fillings seem to include cheese or an egg or bananas or chocolate.

Because chocolate and bananas are a bit decadent for breakfast we had our crepes filled with peaches and yogurt this morning. It took me a long time to get a crepe recipe just right, but now it is no fail. The great thing about crepes is they can be filled with savory or sweet fillings, meat or vegetarian and with this recipe you can even make them virtually fat free if you want and they still come out good.

Here it is:
Basic Crepes
2 eggs (or 1/2 cup fake eggs)
1 teaspoon sugar (skip for savory filled crepes)
1/2 cup flour
1 pinch salt
1 cup milk (any kind is fine including nonfat)
1 teaspoon oil

Throw all the ingredients into the blender and blend away! The batter only needs to rest 15 minutes or so (to reduce bubbles) then heat a non-stick crepe pan over medium heat and spray lightly with cooking oil. Ladle approximately two tablespoons of the batter into the pan and tilt the pan to cover the bottom with a thin, even coating. Cook the crepe until small bubbles form on the surface and it is barely firm, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Flip and repeat until crepe is done. Use crepes immediately or stack them separated by wax paper. Wrap well and freeze for up to one month. Thaw while still wrapped at room temperature.

You can actually buy your own crepe maker. Home versions start at about $150. However unless you're planning on a career change that involves selling crepes--I would suggest a non-stick crepe pan, and in my experience cheap ones work just fine.

Weekend Away

2012-12-24T22:35:00.000-08:00

I won't be posting this weekend. I'm going off to camp.
Camp Cassoulet, that is.

See you Monday!

Inside the Kitchen--Gerald Hirigoyen

2012-12-24T05:29:00.000-08:00

www.flickr.com

Inside the Kitchen presents so many great chefs and classes, it can be hard to choose, but one of my first choices was to take the class called "Secrets of Basque Cuisine" with Gerald Hirigoyen. I am a big fan of his two current restaurants, Bocadillos and Piperade (I also used to love both Fringale and Pastis, his former restaurants).

Basque cusine has both French and Spanish influences, but is unique and not well-known in the US. Hirigoyen gave us a bit of the flavor of the region with his description of eating outside under an umbrella and drinking a glass of rose. In his recipe booklet he also gave us a suggestion for his favorite restaurant near Saint-Jean-de-Luz, the town where the seafood stew originates. He also did a little Emeril impression to keep us amused.

Today's dishes were an elegant yet spicy and satisfying fish and seafood stew with langoustines, called "Ttoro". An interesting technique was demonstrated, pureeing the stock, vegetables and fish bones in a blender before straining it to create the broth. The other dish was a seasonal dish of squab in red wine. The mahogany roasted squab was succulent and delicious, perfect for this time of year.

Gerald Hirigoyen is one half of the other team competing this afternoon against Elizabeth Falkner and Melissa Perello. Who am I rooting for? I'll never tell!

FOOD + INSIDE THE KITCHEN

What a day!

2012-12-23T23:30:00.000-08:00

My interview? No other than Jacques Pepin! KQED ever so kindly arranged for me to meet and interview him. Much better pictures and lots of details soon. That's me with a stack of books for him to sign.

Breakfast by the way, was terrific, I definitely recommend Canteen. A tiny little place, only four little booths and about ten seats at the bar. I had a scrumptious corned beef hash that was made with house smoked corned beef, lots of carmelized onions and Yukon gold potatoes topped with two perfectly poached eggs. I will plan another meal or two and post a review.

It was also great catching up with the Culinary Muse who I am glad to say is posting more frequently. Today she shared a discovery for a juice bar in the Ferry Plaza. Betcha didn't know there was one!