Paris and France with Kids

2012-05-11T12:31:00.001-07:00

I've really been thinking about summer lately and can't wait for our own local market to kick into gear - but While I'm witing - here's a few of my fav markets in the South of France...

Summer Hours

(most are closed Mondays and holidays and are finished by 1:00pm)

Cote d’Azur

Antibes –Everyday except Mondays

Beaulieu-Sur-Mer – Covered market – closed Mondays

Cannes – Every morning except Mondays

Cavalaire-Sur-Mer – Wednesdays and Saturdays

Nice – Everyday of the week – vary but most can be found on Cours Selaya

St. Tropez – on Place des Lices – Tuesdays and Saturdays

Cote d’Azur

Aix en Provence – Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays – next to the Palais du Justice

Avignon – Flea Marche every Sunday am on the Place des Carmes

Carcassonne – Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturadays – Place Carnot

Languedoc-Rouissillon

Nimes – Daily markets – well known for provencal fabric

Castillion du Gard –Last Sunday in July – large flea market

Uzes – Wednesdays and Saturdays

2012-04-30T16:53:00.001-07:00

It's official - my new book I've been working on has been downloaded over 500 times!

It's called A Real Mom's Guide to Travel in Paris with Kids (kindle edition on Amazon!)

http://www.amazon.com/Real-Moms-Travel-Guide-ebook/dp/B006U3TTNA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335930389&sr=8-1

I thought I'd never get done and swore lie a sailor and I don't even swear normally! but now I'm working on a South of France version and having a blast -

Of course, I'm really feeling the travel bug to get out of here - maybe it's because its cold and rainy every day!

Still, even going one hour away sometimes feels good.

Just Go already! Embrace Change

2011-04-13T12:58:00.000-07:00

I was speaking to a well known Francophile the other day about why she hasn’t been back to France since her son’s birth almost 4 years ago now. She cocked her head like I said something in another language and responded that she can’t imagine dragging a 3 ½ year old all over the countryside. There were so many things she wanted to do that she knew wouldn’t be fun for her son. I hear this a lot and I have to say that doesn’t sound appealing to me either!

But, who says you can’t travel with kids?! God knows that it’s actually easier with young ones than older ones, or so I’ve experienced. Once they got old enough, they wanted a say in what we did, the place we’re staying at, what they eat, etc. Our list seems endless until I remind them that as a child my only vacations were either to family’s homes or staying at crazy places like the Wigwam Inn.

Inthe end, you have to embrace your change - I've done this with my new wrinkles which appear on a weekly basis, my ever expanding hips and rear - why not with your ever changing family?

Here’s my big suggestion for travelling this season – GO! Enjoy! Don’t travel to 15 different places; you won’t have time to see everything anyway. Live like a local; shop the less expensive markets for quality produce and goods (kids LOVE this) and get to know one area well – MAYBE two areas – no more.

If you’ve never been to France before – Paris is a must – rent an apartment or use points to secure a large chain hotel – whichever you’re comfortable with and both have their pluses and minuses – big US chain will offer nanny services so you can enjoy a night out. For the younger members nannies are required to be nurses so that’s a huge plus.

If you have older kids and plan on 6 or more nights, money wise an apartment makes sense. More room, kitchen, and live that oh so Parisian life – our last apartment was 2 floors above a wonderful left bank café.

If you’ve been before and are looking to avoid the tourists – the Dordogne is my absolute favorite place to visit. So peaceful and feels like you’ve walked into an old 1600 century painting in many respects. Wild strawberries abound, the river for which it gets its name snakes through ancient castles and mills.

No matter where you decide – decide to go! “Just do it” as the Nike commercials say! Don’t let children be a hindrance – they’re not at all – just the opposite - they’re a gift – a gift that’s gone much too soon.

My children all have a genuine love of travel and although it gets crazy, I welcome their input and look forward to being with them wherever we go. Seeing the world through their eyes keeps me young – gives me a new perspective and helps me appreciate this amazing planet!

No Place Like Home for the Holidays

2010-12-20T16:57:00.000-08:00

Being a child during the holidays is wonderful - do you remember? No Stress and Fun and Games – Literally

In France, where I spent most of my childhood Christmases we would arrive at Mémés after a "quick" 13 hour jaunt from Oxford to Chateauroux with my dad at the wheel. WOW! So glad I slept through most of my dad’s weaving in and out of traffic with fellow Andretti wannabe Brits and French drivers! Amazing, really that I’m here writing this!

Once safely at her home, on Christmas Eve I’d eye the small tree on her table and her crèche and platters upon platters of cakes, petit fours and a table of desserts to enjoy. Once settled in, all of us kids would place our shoes outside our shared bedroom doors for Père Noël to place tiny Clementine’s and other goodies inside them.

The most memorable treat was truly disturbing in retrospect but it was the yummiest and most anticipated of all – a milk chocolate sabot or wooden shoe with a pink sugared baby Jesus carefully placed on the top. Yes, we all ate baby Jesus – me, my sister, all my cousins – everyone and we had so much fun! They oddly don’t make this treat anymore.

Now as an adult, with kids of my own, we stay at home for Christmas but my childhood traditions from France live on. Every year we place a Nativity crèche on the table and the animals and figures make their appearances one a day until Jesus’ arrival on Christmas morning.

We also celebrate Réveillon – a dinner on Christmas Eve with adult goodies – oysters, caviar –you name it with items that you normally don’t have during the year so it makes it special. It’s calming and loud at the same time – harmonious chaos – if there is such a beast. I have the kids put the finishing touches on our homemade Buche de Noel - add the marzipan mushrooms and voila!

We drink wine in to the wee hours, like I remember hearing my relatives do and laugh and talk and reminisce. We don’t sing the drinking songs or sing French carols loudly but oh well. Then it’s Christmas morning – bags and packages and breakfast made, we sit back and feel grateful to be together. And grateful when we have our house back to ourselves.

Have a Joyeux Noel, Happy Holidays to you and your loved ones.

Final Journey

2010-09-22T14:30:00.000-07:00

I know I write a blog about traveling to France but this week I’ll be travelling to see a dear friend of mine in Michigan for the last time.

He’s in hospice and only has a few weeks left to live and I’m trying to really comprehend what that means I realize I don’t have the first clue. I don’t know what to say or how to act. Knowing me I’ll really screw things up – I’m this decade’s Lucile Ball! I do know I’ll tell him what an inspiration he’s been to our family for how hard he fought his cancer and how much we’ll miss him and love him.

Life truly is a journey and with Mike and his wife, Marla and son Dominc we’ve had some amazing adventures! Chicago – our salad days and very limited funds – pizza night Fridays and $1.00 movies at the Biograph. Or, crazy nights on a Michigan lake chasing fireflies and foxes. Then later, we were lucky enough to spend some time in Paris with them seeing all the sites – Mike’s camera by his side.

But best of all I know for Mike was Italia- Mike’s motherland. We ate too much food, and certainly had too much wine and our house was struck by lightning during the most amazing storm I’ve ever been in. He took photos to prove it! I swear nothing scared that man.

This journey he sets off for is one we’ll on be going on some day – just didn’t expect it to end this way just yet. Then again, I’m not writing the adventures – God is. I hear he has his reasons, though I have not been notified nor do I expect to ever be, I guess.

Hug those kids, and your spouse. Call someone you’ve been meaning to just haven’t gotten around to it – because one day, they’re gone and that’s that. Oddly, Peter and I are blessed that we get this chance this week because I know many that don’t.

If Mike's journey has taught us one thing it's that you should do what you love, say what you mean and live every minute to the fullest. It's corny maybe but it's still right. Go on that trip, paint that room-take that vacation! God bless!

There's an APP for that! France and Paris Apps to Help you Around Town

2010-06-06T13:54:00.000-07:00

These days I'm hooked to my smart phone - I'm in love with all the applications it offers - and even more so when it comes to travel - Here's a few of my favourite apps for getting around France and the "City of Light"...

The following are either free or under $3.00 at the time I wrote this.

GETTING AROUND PARIS and DINING:
Paris - it's a wonderful tool for people like me that want to see on a map exactly where they are in DT Paris. I went to Paris on my own this October and while my husband is excellent at direction - I'm not! I've been to Paris at least 20 times and would still not know all those tiny side streets!

Paris a Pieds - Offers maps of Paris' gardens, museums, churches, markets, passageways and terraces.

Metro Paris - obviously the Metro - or subway, RER and Bus Routes - on your phone - very handy - but turn off alerts when not in the city!

Paris2Go - Offers searchable map and guide for paris. Includes history on famous monuments. Locates nearby restaurant, cafes, bars, wine bars and clubs.

Zagat to Go - dining is huge for me and this is great for France and Paris as well as home.

NEWS/INFO -
France 24 - This app can be in English, Arabic or French - it gives me live news (via video) from France - I use French to beef up my vocab. Also offers individual subjects like Culture, Sports, Economy, etc.

Le Monde.fr if you speak/read French is excellent

TOURING:I love Rick Steves' Tours - here's 2 of his apps: Both apps offer maps, points of interests, and Rick giving you a personal tour of the highlights. They also offer locations to restrooms, restaurants and hotels nearby.
Rick Steves' Paris 2010

Rick Steves' Versailles

Rick Steves' Orsay Tour

Musee du Louvre - gives history and as you might guess a run down of what's what at one of the world's most famous museums

MISC:
Weather - Love knowing what the weather will be like where I am as well as back home :)

Translator - Multi language uses

Selecting a Wine for Dummies - You can create your own personal wine notes with photos. There's also a food and wine pairing section and loads more.

Vogue Paris - need I say more! and it's free

CDG Airport Guide - this place can be very confusing! Lists times, costs of shuttles, buses etc., as well as maps .

Via Michelin Traffic France - gives you real time traffic info. Think being in raffic is the US is bad? Wait until you experience a traffic jam in France.

Eat, Drink & Be Merry in Paris - Sans Enfants

2010-05-28T17:03:00.000-07:00

My 17 year anniversary is coming up (wow!) and my husband I and have decided to wait until Paris to celebrate. Our favorite café is one we discovered while strolling the left bank on our honeymoon and each and every time since, have always made it a point to have an amazing dinner there. It's not fancy but the food is transformational.

It's also always missing something– the kids. We are normally with them 24/7 on vacations – but it’s so important to make time as adults. Granted, the first time we left our first born with a sitter, we ate downstairs in the hotel restaurant and fretted the entire time. I felt like a bad American mommy! But man, these days we’re out that hotel lobby door so fast it makes your head spin! I love my kids, but feeling like a vibrant, exciting adult again is truly refreshing - if even fleeting.

I know it may seem weird leaving your little guys to a stranger but most hotels offer this service, from an accredited source– but ask to be sure. In France its even the law that infants 4 months and under are cared for by registered nurses. And you can request an English speaking sitter.

If you’re renting an apartment while there, try Baby Chou – a nationwide babysitting service. The website is written in French, but I hear they speak English very well. Here’s their website: http://www.babychou.com/index.php

Forget your milk and carrot stained clothing and get out - Cheers to you and your significant other!

PS- It's called Cafe Allard and it's a real treat!

CHECKLIST for LIFE

2010-05-23T16:56:00.000-07:00

These days, I'm always trying in vain to find my brain - I jump in my car, kids in tow and forget the car keys. If my purse wasn't always in my car, I'd forget that too! I leave the water water running too long for the kids' baths, forget to change over the laudry, forget my bags for groceries - on and on it goes!

So, when I travel, even close to home I bring out my checklist that I created so I woudn't leave the kids behind, like in Home Alone! (although some days, that doesn't sound so bad - haha)

3-4 Weeks Prior

Passport is VALID! EVERYONE 1 day or older needs one for Europe and beyond...

• Order Euros/Foreign currency (also UK Sterling money IF your are transferring in London) for the trip – usually takes 1-2 weeks from your bank
• Purchase nylon duffle bag (Target - $20) – for any extras and stress-free packaging
• Have all reservations completed for trip – email confirmations/rail tix, etc
• Decide on how are you getting to airport? Friends, Driving, Taxi?
• Check with cell phone company to get their international calling plans (if available)
• If not available – rent cell phone from Hertz, etc
• Buy a money belt, travel alarm if you don’t have one
• International plugs for charging cell phones, hairdryers, curling irons, shavers, etc.
• Arrange for special meal request onboard for your flight (i.e.– special kids meal, veggie, etc)
• Check with physician regarding any meds you’re on or if going somewhere exotic – check for special shots for you and others traveling

1-2 Weeks Prior:
Animals/Home:

• Confirm all shots for boarding Dog/Cats
• Boarding confirmed – reconfirmed
• Instructions left for home – home sitter/pet sitter – KEYS
• Timed lights working okay – or get timers
• Extra keys to neighbour – inform neighbours of your absence - dates
• Newspapers – stop
• Mail – stop or arrange for pickup
• Cleaning ladies – notified
• Clean out fridge/ Arrange for Trash

Flight/Hotels/Passports/Cell Phones/Etc
• Re-confirm flight, and flight times, car and hotel reservations – child policies
• Check with airline company on restrictions for bags/carry-ons Check with airline and partners to see if you can use their airport lounge
• Have seats onboard together
• Printed off all reservations confirmation numbers to pack for carry-on
• Make 2 copies of passports/birth certificates – one for neighbour, one for us in separate suitcase (also copy of birth certificates for children) SUPER IMPORTANT
• Email detailed itinerary to friends/family – leave your contact numbers in case of emergency

Money/Misc
• Pick up your foreign currency for taxis, tipping, meals upon arrival – Also, 50 British Sterling Pounds if connecting in London (for use both ways for lunch, magazines, etc) ALWAYS AVOID currency converters at airports!
• Have bank card that works overseas (most do)
• Have pin number for Visa/MasterCard to pull cash if needed in case of emergency
• Print off contact #s of friends, family, neighbours for you to call if emergency
• Kids – diapers, wipes, etc., to last one week
• Haircut apt. or try one while overseas? Fun, exciting, but never know what you’ll get!
• Pick up earplugs for the trip to help with sleeping on the plane - some airlines give you these now, like Air France

A Few Days Prior:

Check http://www.weather.com/ for local weather conditions for latest and how to pack

Where I am going will determine what I wear to a certain extent (i.e. it is considered offensive – VERY rude to walk into any church in Italy wearing shorts and sleeveless tops) – I bring a scarf to wear over my shoulders so the guards/monitors will let me in.

• Dark sweater, cardigan, pants, shirt – navy or blacks
• Line bottom of luggage with dryer sheets - makes clothes smell nice and can use them later!
• Great walking shoes – that are NOT tennis shoes (Ecco, etc) – no more than 3 pairs
• Pack zip-lock baggies – come in super handy
• Wet wipes/Purell hand sanitizers
• Pack any necessary meds – check with Dr. keep in original container!
• Tylenol, Pepto-Bismol, etc - ordinary items that work for you/family you may not be able to get overseas or at least recognize with the different branding.
• Band aids, Neosporin, basic first aid stuff OR – babelfish the translation for headache, stomach ache, etc in case you find yourself trying to do charades for a dozen Italians – it’s funny about a year later – hahaha!
• Deodorant, brush, contact solution- easy to reach compartment of luggage (not carry-on any more) Manicure Kit
• Downy wrinkle Reducer, small bottle of Woolite detergent if staying in hotels
• Swim suit, wrap, sun screen
• Make sure copy of passports/birth certificates in suitcases!
• Baby powder – helps stay dry and fresh when walking 10 miles a day!!!
• Small scissors, small sewing kit, flashlight, screwdriver
• Envelope for all receipts of items purchased to make it easier at customs and to get back any VAT if you qualify. – Also, pack these items upon return separately to make it easier for you at customs and VAT kiosk.
• Bubble wrap if you know you want to purchase some things that may be fragile – OR diapers!
• Pack your empty nylon duffle bag at the bottom of suitcase

For your CARRY-ON – check your airline policies…
• Chapstick, Vaseline - small
• Water bottle – after airport security and if LHR – after BOTH security check points
• Toothbrush, travel size paste
• Camera, etc.
• Clean pair of undies – yes, undies – makes all the difference in the world!
• Hand lotion, travel size– super dry on plane
• Good book – Guide books, maps, directions to where you’re going if driving
• Ipod with head phones – or use the airline’s music
• Glasses, contact case and very small Renu, if possible
• Sunglasses, Earplugs, Tylenol, Tums
• SLIP ON shoes for the trip and socks to wear on the plane
• HOTEL Name/Addresses of where you're staying at in case you get a taxi driver that doesn’t speak English - which does happen!
• Prelabeled names of friends/family for postcards
• Snacks – nutrition bars, apples, goldfish, nuts – if you can bring them
• Plastic bag for trash – if you’re like us onboard – to keep trash under control
• Little toys, games, crayons markers, stickers, car seat, stroller
• Diapers if you need them and at least one change of clothing for the little person
• Benedryl in case of allegic reaction and motrin infant if ears etc hurt.

THE BIG DAY:
• Call airlines to see about delays if weather is bad
• Arrive at Airport at least 3 hours prior to departure time!
• Lock all doors and windows, unplug unnecessary appliances, check thermostat
• Sky cap to help with bags (if you need it) – they cannot check you in to international destinations, usually
• Have passports, driver’s license’s ready and handy
• Make sure you have your medical insurance card
• Have money belt with all your currency – US and EU
• Get thru security ASAP to avoid missing flights
• Shop Duty free now or upon return?
• Have emergency numbers in wallet -- I have Stresa ones for you below…
• Drink plenty of water so jet lag isn’t as bad (alcohol makes it much worse)
• Have your itinerary, all travel information in a folder/folio ready to go (we usually use a small three ring binder with car, hotel info, etc.

• Relax – Hang out and have a positive attitude - it’s going to be a very long day – but that’s okay!

The Wild Hair and the Low Euro - Winning Combo!

2010-05-16T10:35:00.000-07:00

If you're ever going to get a wild hair for travel - now is a perfect time! The Euro to my memory, hasn't been this low years and makes Europe an unexpected less-expensive vacation spot than other locations.

My husband and I decided to see if we could make this year's vacation to France cost about the same as what we would've spent had we stayed closer to home.

How to make the most bang for your buck -

WHERE TO GO???

Are your roots in any particular country or region? Do you have a love of a certain wine or cuisine? Is there a place on your bucket list we've always wanted to see or experience? Are you a history buff? Think of what makes you tick and decide. Or go crazy and look at inexpensive homes for rent on the below sites and go with the flow!

I happen to love a good rosé wine - hence, I'm travelling to Bandol this summer and plan on touring a vineyard while there - soak up some Southern French sun and shop the markets - voila - vacation! My kids are excited about the beach, the swimming pool that came with the bastide and exploring the Roman ruins. Oh, and of course shopping in a few of the larger cities, like Nice and Marseilles.

AIR
Turn in those frequent miles or shop the internet - sometimes travel agents can offer lower fares if their companies purchase seats in bulk. You know these:

http://www.expedia.com/
http://www.travelocity.com/
http://www.orbitz.com/
http://www.hotwire.com/

BUDGET - What are you able to spend? My husband and I decided to see if we could make this year's vacation to France cost about the same as what we would've spent had we stayed closer to home. We're doing this by getting some free tickets - thanks to mileage points on credit cards, renting a home and apartment in Paris and making meals in our home - with one very nice meal out. Also, markets are a huge draw for the kiddos so spending money will be used there. Museum passes are purchased so cost is cut and there's a ton of stuff for families free in France and elsewhere in Europe.

WHO'S COMING?
They may sound weird, but Peter and I always travel in Europe with friends and family. We get to spend time with them in a beautiful location, share memories later and have a lot of laughs - sometimes after the fact.

We get lost in Rome together, have a meal at a home that turns out completely wrong and it's all good fun! We've even had a home get struck by lightning on a Sunday night with no visibility and have laghed so hard about that evening that I thought I'd wet myself! Also, the mountain lion on the roof trying to get to the chicken story was one to remember!

THE KEY to to inviting people is know thy self and those you're inviting. Our only 2 criteria - are they needy people? If yes, they don't come! And, are they fun or have a sense of humour? We go off and do things just our family while there, and respect our friends needs for privacy also. We come together in the evenings and do go out siteseeing but it's not a must do or a requirement if people don't come. Easy breezy.

RENT A HOME!
It can be a much better deal, especially if you're like us with a family of five to rent a home or villa in your chosen country/region. A lot of rental homes are second homes to famillies in Europe - in order to help pay their bills, they rent. With the crisis over Greece and other countries, there seems to be a lot of rentals on the market, and a lot of bargains. A great deal of Brits seem to own homes in France and need to rent them more than ever so rates are wonderful!

We've mostly been pleasantly surprised by how much nicer the place is in reality than in the photos and would highly recommend this option. Of course you do your own cooking and shopping - which is half the fun for us!

Also, know the owner's policy of deposits and payments first. The photo below shows one of our friends and family trips in Stresa, Italy overlooking Lago Maggiore in the Italian Lake District. The home was old, massive and truly located in the most amazing location - close to everything. The kids explored the home, the amazing grounds complete with table tennis, swings and hammocks - not mentioned in the listing.

Here's some rental companies I've dealt with in the past - some are owner run and operated and some are agencies specializing in rentals: The difference is simple - agencies charge a fee - usually already included but means more for you monetarily. However, they've inspected it - again, usually and have better photos, sometimes services like catering, cars, handle the deposits for you in a more timely manner and give much more details.

But renting from an owner = less expensive rates, can agree to use their bikes, car etc in advance. If you have an infant - be sure to let them know so they can accomodate your baby prior to arrival. Also, they may not tell you about animals on their site because they don't consider it important. We've been surprised by donkeys, chickens, horses and a mountain lion on our roof in Chianti once! Owner didn't think it was important to let us know he's always after her chickens! Ask questions first! Email is a great way to communicate.
http://www.parkervillas.com/ - ONLY Italy - but wow are they fantastic!
http://www.parisperfect.com/ - Excellent resource and now I believe they've expanded to other areas as well - see this link for more info.
http://www.vrbo.com/ - Vacation Rental By Owner
http://www.holiday-rentals.co.uk/World/r1.htm - Just got an email from these folks - lots of homes on sale! Also, B&Bs
http://www.simplychateau.com/ - rent a chateau for family reunions, group gatherings, a wedding, or just to feel like royalty. The one we rented came complete with a dungeon - everything still in its place!
Or opt for a B&B- still affordable and have one meal a day covered in your price. I check http://www.tripadvisor.com/ for the latest reviews on B&Bs I'm interested in.
http://www.frenchconnections.co.uk/ - homes and B&Bs
Also - http://www.bedbreak.com/chambres_d_hotes.asp Chambre d'hote in France is B&B

Love these Karen Brown guide books:

She was my only source of information for my honeymoon many moons ago - before - gasp- the age of the internet and smart phones!

So, get crazy - get that wild hair and do something unexpected - plan your vacation to Europe with your family and spend what you would normally spend having a holiday closer to home! Enjoy the Dolce Vita!

Definitely an American at the Funeral

2010-04-25T11:33:00.000-07:00

Meme Simone

I maybe half French and grew up in England but have definitely adapted my lifestyle to my American ways – especially when it comes to funerals!

At the funerals I’ve been to here in the US, the deceased are viewed in their coffins in a medium to large room. Friends and family are invited to attend. Memories are told and a few smiles and tears are shared. And, other than an occasional kiss or a slight caress, rarely is the deceased touched or handled.

Not so in my French grandmother’s case. Even though it’s been a few months since I’ve returned from France, I still can’t get over how different my experience was from anything I’d ever seen – ever. I’m not going to say it’s weird or wrong or bad – just REALLY different.

After a total of 12 hours on a plane, 3 hours of waiting at the airport and 3 hours of drive time, I get in to my aunt’s home just in time to get back in the car for the “viewing”. (Keep in mind that I haven’t slept and it’s about 5 in the morning my time – up 24 hours straight) At this point, I’m blissfully unaware of the customs and norms of a French funeral. Although, I really wish I’d read about what was coming!

My grandmother was at a funeral home of sorts – but in a small room that looked a lot like somewhere you’d go to get a massage. The 12x 12 room had peach colored walls, dim lighting and new age music playing as she lay there on a small table.

I looked at my sister and after the initial shock of the setting, I wanted so badly to burst out laughing – so much so that I couldn’t look at my sister for fear that I’d embarrass my family. I could tell she was about to lose it too! Nervous and tired energy, I guess.

Then, as I sat in the only little chair provided, the "rabbit hole" really opened wide and from my protected corner, I watched my family touch and hug my grandmother repeatedly. They kissed her over and over and held her hand and talked to her. They snuggled in the bed and tucked in items into the covers for her that had meaning or significance. They looked at me as if I were evil because there was no way on earth I was going to touch her – let alone hop in with her. I was asked to come over and “join” in but NO WAY! My butt might as well of been super glued as I watched in morbid fascination. My younger sister touched her, though very uneasy - but she was braver than I.

As if this weren’t bad enough, after this long “process” – men came in and put my grandmother into her selected coffin and in front of us all; they closed the lid and SCREWED it on in front of us. This is a traditional part of the funeral I was told. Are we in 1780 still?

She was placed in the hearse and we followed. I’ve never been happier to attend mass – I prayed hard that she’d forgive me and understand that this is not my world. I also wanted to laugh in church though! My grandmother loved a good joke and laughed a lot – though I know she wouldn’t have been happy if I had.

This blog serves as fair warning to anyone that’s about to experience a French funeral for the first time. I would’ve loved to know that this was coming! Our norms are much more homogenized – for better or worse. The actual funeral procession was beautiful – the day, the setting, the rituals and our flowers upon her coffin as she was lowered in to her chosen resting spot. Children’s laughter was heard on the other side of the hedges and I knew this was would be a happy place.

Still that night, my sister and I stayed up ALL night laughing with and giggling at ourselves- we got up at 4:30 - had coffee with my aunt and mother and as soon as we could headed out the door for hot, fresh croissants. Something my grandmother loved.

Maybe a book I should've read!

Kids on a Plane and a Camel to boot!

2010-03-27T13:01:00.000-07:00

Truth is now that I’m older, I’m afraid of flying. I really have no idea why…maybe it’s that I’ve seen too many bad made-for-TV movies about all the things that can happen on a plane? Maybe it’s the thought of perishing along with all my family members in a fiery crash, or some crazy snakes slinking under my feet? Well, at least on Air France, they keep the wine flowing and have enough programs that could help distract me while we were going down.

The last time I went Trans Atlantic was actually by myself last October, for my grandmother’s funeral. I sat next to a 17 year old French boy who along with his 26 or so of his classmates were on their way to Seattle, USA for the first time ever. My first thought was crap! Just what I need – 4 rows of loud, crazy teens, being obnoxious and here I am in the middle of them all – the only person not part of their tour group! Stewardess – more wine please and keep ‘em coming!

Turns out, they were a fun, quiet bunch and took my mind off some of the sadder moments of the past week. So excited about all the things and people they were about to meet, about to see. They were really interested in the food – typical French!

But, the poor kid who was in the window seat though, next to me never once got up – something I can’t even imagine—11 hours of not getting up! Between my bad back and weak bladder (should really do more kegels!)I honestly cannot imagine how he did it. I asked him in French if he was a camel but started back blankly at me.

Then it hit me, as I was getting off I had assumed something about this group that turned out to be totally wrong – just like what people do when they see my brood coming their way on a plane. Turns out I was in the best part of the plane – no drunks, no rude, loud people – just a nice group of kids who kept me entertained and my mind off crashing!

Travel in France-Top 10 things you should know

2010-03-08T14:42:00.000-08:00

A I R

AIRPORT GATES - If you fly out of a Paris airport –gates for non-American Airlines (and a few American ones too) close 30 MINUTES prior to departure – this means that if you arrive at the gate 30 minutes or fewer to the gate – it will be CLOSED!

STANDBY – que ce c’est? IF you’re flying Air France –and miss your flight, you will not be able to fly on standby - you will have to purchase another ticket! This has happened to me – with my 18 month daughter and being 6 months pregnant – not fun! Always, check with your air carrier on their policies.

BAGGAGE – Overseas or international flights allow more baggage than domestic flights and you may be charged heavily for more bags - Again check with your air carriers.

T R A I N

FINAL DESTINATION- Trains in France are marked with their final destination, which is not necessarily your destination – be sure to know which location/-platform your train is at and be ready – they are usually very good at being on time and don’t wait long.

ON TIME - Trains in France are marked with their final destination, which is not necessarily your destination – be sure to know which location your train is at and be ready

VALIDATE TICKETS - Kiosks, sometimes with English language option are located as you enter the train platforms – they can be bright orange. Make certain you punch or validate your ticket or you could be fined by the conductor once on board. COMPOSTER is the correct button to push.

BAGGAGE - If you’re like us, traveling with younger children means more bags – strollers, car seat the works! Be organized and ready to board – Peter stays on the platform with all of our stuff – and hands me the bags so I get them on. Once everything’s on, we place the bags over us, in the luggage are etc and get to our seats. The French travel with bags that look more like a small computer cases and look at us with such curiosity.

A U T O

CAR RENTALS – We use our Amex card when we rent so we’re covered in case of accidents or damage – check with your credit card to see if they offer this option. Also, most car rentals rent manual vehicles unless you ask for automatic – and you’ll be charged more on most occasions for this “luxury”.

ROAD SIGNAGE –for roads are different – know your road rules before you leave and get familiar with working round-a-bouts.

FOOD- The food on the autoroutes is not bad – really – the Autogrill restaurants are my family’s most stopped at brand, maybe due to convenience but cleanliness too. Mostly they’re cafeteria style food with a mini-mart of sorts attached, it’s easy for kids to get fed and stock up on snacks.

Top 10 Packing List for Teens and Tweens - by Lauren

2010-03-02T14:30:00.000-08:00

So, as we loaded our car last week for a long weekend to visit family and friends only a few hours away, I realized that even though I have no more infants in tow, we still pack like we're off for a month long journey to Siberia or somewhere remote!

That said, I let my kids pack their own "carry-ons" this time and asked them to name the top 10 most important, fun items to bring on any vacation. Here's what my 91/2 year old, Lauren came up with:

( Photo: Daniel with his favorite stuffed animal from home and Madeleine with her camera around her neck...Center, this week's author, Lauren)

1. *IPods, MP3 player (Mom and dad only let us use electronics during the airplane trip or on long car rides!)

2. *Portable DVD player, Ninetendo DS ("BYOB" - bring your own batteries from home)

3. Personal Items you can’t live without - i.e., Glasses, sun hat, jewelry, stuffed animal

4. Camera and/or Flip camcorder - we have the Flip Camcorder and Nikon Cool Pix - both are small and work great for us.

5. Small knick-knack toys (from Walgreens or the airport - cheap and okay if you lose)

6. Binoculars - We got ones for Madeleine for a 6th grade 3 day field trip - good for the price and sturdy. Can find them at Target)

7. Travel Journal

8. Sketch pad

9. Activity Books – Mad Libs, kids' Atlas, sticker books

10. Markers, watercolor pencils, etc

*My Note - I don't like them to miss out on their surroundings so we ask them NOT to use the IPods, IPod Touches, DVD players etc., while we're out exploring Paris, or other parts of France. I feel more connected to them this way and feel like we have a shared experience where they're plugged in to what we're doing as a family and not tuned out. If I'm a big meanie for this - I guess tough! It always seems to work out though.

Some of our favorite brands, items that we own or have used...

TOP 10 THINGS YOU CAN DO TO AVOID "UAS" UGLY AMERICAN SYNDROME

2010-02-24T09:24:00.000-08:00

I know the French have their stereotypes as being rude and such but sometimes it’s due to lack of understanding among each of our country’s customs and norms. What's acceptable here is not so there and vice versa.

For instance, no one in my family (or most of France it seems) understands the whole “waiting in line” business for starters! While we line up at a Starbucks for ten minutes or more, my aunt, visiting last summer from France gets irate – this is silly she cries! She has a lot to learn about what we'll do for coffee!

But interestingly, a lot of Americans in France don’t fare much better. Here’s how we avoid the “UAS” – Ugly American Syndrome, just by understanding a few French customs and norms and make a few friends in the process…

1. BONJOUR et MERCI - Simple words that mean the world - Always exchange a greeting with someone before asking for something, etc. and prior to departure – Bonjour, Madame/Monsieur and when departing their store or stand, merci or bon journee. This applies to waiters, the butcher, anyone at all. Failure to do so will instantly label you as an extremely rude individual and you will be treated so. This is a French custom that can’t be broken if you plan on enjoying your trip. It’s really the ONE thing you need to do. It’s funny because in the US, we don’t think of this at all – it’s not a big deal but in France it’s truly everything. Plus, the kids love to do this and warms the French!

2. MENU SIGNAL - When you’re ready to order, the French custom is that you show this by closing the menu - the waiter will see that you’ve selected your items and will only come over then.

3. HOW LONG?! - Never expect to be in and out of a restaurant in less than 2 hours – seriously! In France, eating is a ritual, a time for catching up with people - the waiter is NOT ignoring you – simply allowing you to have time with your family, friend, etc. in peace. If you’re in a hurry – eat at a deli, fast food joint, creperie, etc.

4. Du VIN – feel free to compliment the wine you’re enjoying with a Frenchman but don’t begin to compare it to an American one. French wine is a great source of national pride. I made this mistake only once with my family and wished I could’ve gotten a photo of their faces!

5. FLOWERS - Don’t present a French woman flowers if coming to her home – it comes across as perhaps her home is either not prepared for your arrival or it stinks! For some types of flowers, it signals bad luck or even death.

6. PARLEZ VOUS? -Never assume someone speaks English – they probably do (at least in Paris) but until they hear you floundering and realize that their English is better than your French, they won’t try.
Here's Above - Peter with my then 90 old Grandmother trying his hardest to speak French.

7. BACK IN TEXAS - Don’t talk about how much better everything is “back home”. I have actually seen this with a few Southern women in a bistro and all 50 people (including us) were either really annoyed or embarrassed. Maybe it really is better where you’re from but no one wants to hear that. Imagine someone coming to your home and telling you how much better their country and their foods, etc is than yours – plainly rude. And not a good way to make friends with anyone.

8. SCOTCH - If you’re bringing over alcohol to a person’s home – bring over Scotch Whiskey but not wine, unless you really know the person. My uncle loves Jack Daniels because it’s American but I bring nothing else from the USA. Once I brought over a bottle of very good Oregon wine, made from a well-known family in France and my family laughed! Don’t mess with the French and their wines, I guess.

9. DRVING LANE - If you’re driving – stay OUT of the far left lane – it truly is JUST for passing – you will get honked at, flashed lights at and worse, trust me! In France they really only use this lane to pass each other (going at least 160 kilometers an hour!

10. TAKE OUT – Although there’s Starbucks in Europe now, it’s filled with Americans and some French youth. Most French still prefer to enjoy a cup of coffee sitting down, relaxing. If you want coffee to go – go to a Starbucks or McDonald’s. A café (even off the highways) will not have cups to go. Unheard of! And a rather crass idea at that for most of France still.

Top 10 Affordable Items to buy in France

2010-02-22T09:53:00.000-08:00

Think markets, super markets and pharmacies - Seriously! There's a lot of fun, affordable items at these locations- I know this sounds cheap - but no one knew - until now, that I shop here. Plus, I have a gazillion people to shop for when I go to France. And with kids, this is practical!

So, here's some of my favourite gifts to give and get for me and my family. (plus, when I run out, sometimes I treat myself to more via online shopping for birthdays, holidays) Or if I forget someone on my list, like I always do!

Soaps/skin care products - Roger and Gallet – French soap, cologne that’s heavenly – my favourite scents are Green Tea, Ginger, Lavender, Rose – Can buy these at pharmacies, Carrefour, Monoprix, etc. Also great as gifts and small in your luggage. Also, Savon de Marseilles – crushed lavender – good for you and your clothes!
Roger & Gallet Lavender (Lavande Royale) Perfumed Soap Boxed Set - 3 x 3.5 oz
Market Bag – Beautiful Market bags are everywhere in France but I buy mine – at the market of course! I have one that’s huge, colorful and leather strapped. Every time I use it, I get asked where I bought it – fun to have something practical, eco and fashionable. My friends always ask for one of these - wonderful birthday gift and they pack flat.

Spices – I love to bring home spices for family and friends – it’s economical and fun to receive – lasts a long time. You buy these at your local grocery store or at several markets by the ounce. (carry your smart phone to translate the spices) Huge assortment.

Child’s picture book – Having a book in a foreign language is a hoot for my kids. If you don’t read French, get a story you’re familiar with like Cinderella or Three Little Pigs, you get the ida.
Also, sticker books in French are fun ways to learn words.

We now have a collection of these books From Antoon Krings...
Droles De Petites Betes: Belle La Coccinelle (French Edition)

Artwork – Arts and artists are all over France and bringing back a small painting or sketch is a way we have of remembering our trip – It’s sort of a present for all of us.

Scarves– I love Hermes scarves – who doesn’t! But, sometimes at markets they sell inexpensive silk ones (about 10Euros) that can be fun to wear and give as gift to friends.

Leather goods - The same is true of handbags and small leather goods. Sometimes you can get a decent bargain at the markets. I still have a leather handbag I bought in a market from 8 years ago – and surprisingly it still goods look.

Ceramics – Sounds crazy to bring home a breakable item but if you put it your carry on (and wrap it in diapers) I’ve so far been able to not have a single ceramic jug, mug or platter break – famous last words, I’m sure! Now that all my kids are out of diapers (YAY!) I bring bubble wrap WITH me – yep, I actually pack the stuff. If I don’t need it I donate it to the house we’re renting.

Tablecloths – I really really love French tablecloths – from the material to the colours to the fact that they wash really well – which is a huge plus come spaghetti night at our house. Know your table’s dimensions before you leave so you’re not stuck with something that doesn’t fit – like I’ve done!

Pomegranate Inc. 100% Cotton 55-Inch Square Tablecloth, Blue Provence

Hard Candies – anything from lollipops to chewy, my kids enjoy eating them once at home and are great gifts to the neighbor kids.

Bonbons Barnier Pierrot Gourmand Salted Butter Caramel Lollipops

TOP 10 FREE THINGS TO DO WITH KIDS IN PARIS AND FRANCE

2010-02-20T09:00:00.000-08:00

Free is a great word these days given the Euro value against the US Dollar - You can have fun with some of these ideas and things we've done to tighten our budgets without feeling cheap...

1. EIFFEL TOWER – It’s free to wander around the base and some of my favorite photos are from hanging around this awe-inspiring structure with my family. Watch for pick-pockets!

2. MUNICIPAL MUSEUMS – Over a dozen Museums in Paris are free to the public. The French believe that culture and its rich history should be for all to enjoy. Here’s a few:
http://www.paris.fr/portail/Culture/Portal.lut?page_id=6450 – History of Modern Art
http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr/ - History of Paris Museum
http://www.galliera.paris.fr/ – Fashion Museum
http://www.galliera.paris.fr/ – crypt under Notre Dame

3. SPIRITUAL - Church or cathedral – play a guessing game – when was it built? How many gargoyles do you think there are? How long do you think it took to build? etc.
Religious exploration – Sainte Chapelle supposedly houses the crown of thorns and its rose window is truly exceptional Also, Vezelay Abbey – or Basilique Ste – Madeleine - Claims to hold actual relics of Mary Magdalene – Even if it doesn't it’s a beautiful place

4. GARDENS Abound – all over France and Paris – your kids will love blowing off energy running around, chasing the local pigeons or picking up a game of “fut” or US soccer with the local kids. Champs de Mars garden has over 60 acres of land!

5. PUPPET shows - Champs de Mars (Eiffel Tower) and Jardins du Luxembourg both offer shows for kiddos in Paris

6. FESTIVALS –FETES - local festivals abound ALL over France and its a source of great pride. Go to your destination’s website or visit their “Marie” online to view upcoming events - these are great ways to get a true sense of the culture and its people. You can also visit: http://www.francemonthly.com/ for regional activites

7. VIEWS – Wow – the views from Sacré-Cœur are just as breath-taking as those seen from the Eiffel Tower in my opinion and of course - Free!

8. MARKETS or marches – Not all markets have food and/or clothing – some offer antiques, animals, you name it. It’s fun to stroll around and look at all the amazing wares the merchants offer. Can the kids figure out an item you point to was used for?
Markets of Parisbook!!!

9. PEOPLE People watching- plop yourself down and enjoy your surroundings – whether in a park or café (MUST purchase something and PAY for a table in a cafe in France!) But people watching is a favorite sport of mine. It’s relaxing and calming and after a L O N G day on my feet – good sport!

Taken by my then, 9 year old Madeleine

10. PHOTOGRAPHY -Make your own photography tour! It's a fun way to get your whole family involved. Get throw away cameras (digital ones for your younger guys) and decide on a theme - statues, people, cafes, favorite things you did, etc. My kids REALLY got into this and now have a budding photographer in our midst!
CULTURE SHOCK - FRANCE book - Culture Shock! France

MY TOP 10 TRAVEL PLANNING WEBSITES FOR FRANCE

2010-02-17T08:30:00.000-08:00

Let’s face it – anyone who writes about “planning a stress-free” vacation does NOT have children coming with them!

That being said, these websites reduce my stress when planning any of our trips overseas...

MY TOP 10

TRAVEL PLANNING WEBSITES

My girls -relaxing in one of the rental farmhouse's hammocks

after an overnight train to Bordeaux

www.viamichelin.com
This is the first stop I make – helps me determine distances, routes, even walking distances to and from any destination in Europe. I print out maps here to take with me in case my satellite connection is not working. plus they offer GREEN options - huge!

www.tripadvisor.com
I love checking out the reviews on hotels and restaurants before I book.

St. Emilion Door Steps

www.franceguide.com
French Government Tourist Office Guide services ALL areas of France

http://france.usembassy.gov/service.html
US Embassy in France – general information and good contact numbers

www.raileurope.com
Website that helps you plan all of your rail needs – schedules and tickets around Europe.

My kids beg for the overnight train rides - they think sleeping on a train is awesome - less so for their parents - but sometimes it's cheaper than getting a hotel and saves us time.

http://www.intransit-international.com/directory/practical_emergency.html
International telephone numbers for emergencies etc.

www.europcar.com
Great company for car rental needs - and they also offer GREEN options!

http://www.louvre.fr/llv/commun/home.jsp?bmLocale=en
Planning your trip to the Louvre before you travel can help reduce stress and feelings of being overwhelmed! Also - purchase museum passes, tickets

http://www.airfrance.us/US/en/common/guidevoyageur/pratique/pratique_visa_douane_airfrance.htm
Air France has ood info on customs, children etc.

http://www.france24.com/en/france
French news in English – know before you go!

Weekly Top 10 Lists - Top 10 Places to Dine with Children in Paris

2010-02-15T12:29:00.000-08:00

Dining out with kids (and sometimes adults!) can be a challenge on a good day!!
Here's my family being really silly!

For some reason it seems daunting in a foreign country. Here's my suggestions for a pleasant meal experience in Paris restaurants or "restos" from traditional cafes and bistrots to fast food and unusual spots...

TOP 10 PLACES TO EAT IN PARIS WITH KIDS

Brasserie Balzar
http://www.brasseriebalzar.com/en/
49, rues des Ecoles
Metro Stop - Cluny-la-Sorbonne
Traditional Brasserie that is used to kids and has an aquarium for the kids to entertained
Kids menu and grat menu for the adults

Restaurant Polidor
http://www.polidor.com/
41, rue Monsieur le Prince
Very good food and like kids - helps to go early before the Parisians arrive for later seating

Bistrot Romain
http://www.bistroromain.fr/restaurants-a-paris.htm
Chain with several DT Paris locations
122 Champs Elysees and many more
Decent Bistrot with menus for children

Restaurant Musee d'Orsay
http://www.musee-orsay.fr/en/espace-professionnels/professionals/tourism-professionals/restaurant.html
What a great way to dine with kids in a "fancy" place
Very kid friendly with inexpensive kids menus

Blue Sucre
7 rue Antoine-Vollon
(rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine)
Metro: Ledru-Rollin 7 rue Antoine-Vollon
GREAT pastries, hot dogs and sandwiches - also THE best Madeleines (Parisians claim) in all of Paris!
Oh, and a good breakfast!

Also - Try the hot dog stands around Paris - really! Not the same as home, which my kids think is interesting. Super large french baguette is the bun.

Toupary
la Samaritaine
http://www.lasamaritaine.com/fr/savourer/d_savourer.asp
Lunch and Dinner
Has Fabulous views from their Terrace of Paris and opened very late. Shop and dine and enjoy a relaxing stop here.

courtesy of Restaurant Toupary

Hippopotamus or Hippo Resto
http://www.hippopotamus.fr/
Decent place and kids loved this because it seems like a French version of Chilis to us.

Photo credit to JB Hall, D. Czap, F. Kompalitch for Hippo Resto.

Cafes - so many in Paris - go somewhere near your hotel so when you're done with dinner they can go to bed.

So much more casual of a dining option - which for kids is good! Plus you're in France - when will you get to experience a true cafe? Offers yummy breakfasts with eggs and croissants and a good coffee. Also offer dsanwiches and egg platters for later.

McDonald's or as the French say "Mc Doe"

I know - this is not my favourite place, but when you have a child that's tired and hungry and fussy - it's a good choice. Your child is familiar with the food, tastes familiar in familiar surroundings.Also, French McDonalds offers more healthy choices - yoghurts, etc. than it's American counterparts.

Bon Marche Department Store

la Grande Epicerie

http://www.lagrandeepicerie.fr/#en-GB/e-boutique

22, rue de Servres

Metro - Sevres-babylone

Great place to purcahse deli meats, prepared foods, etc.

(Honourable Mention - Hediard - wonderul prepared foods, amazing wine selection and chocolates that I still crave! Great for picnics or to bring back to the hotel.)
http://www.hediard.fr/Corporate/Our_shops/

About the Author

2010-02-13T12:39:00.000-08:00

(Meme, Pepe et moi)

As someone who's half French and lived in France I have a certain connection with Paris and with travelling in general. Having visited this beautiful city on many occasions with my grandparents I have come to love its people, its energy and all it offers to all groups of people.

My favorite memories are of lighting candles for loved ones at Notre Dame and of playing in the Tuileries Garden with a picnic lunch - with chocolates of course!

Since living in the US I've visited Paris with my children at least 6 times - with my youngest infant experience of a mere 6 weeks. Now, I'll be returning shortly to visit with my 6, 9, and 11 year olds who seem to share our passions for travel and food - thankfully!

I would love to hear from anyone out there any tips or places to go that they've enjoyed with their families.

Planning Planning Planning!

2010-02-12T12:42:00.000-08:00

I must be insane! With 3 kids and a hectic life of work, school, after-school activities, etc., it's hard to plan for any vacation - let alone an overseas one.
Except that my husband, Peter and I LOVE to travel! Even when we were dirt poor and ate Ramen noodles night after night so we could go somewhere (anywhere) from our tiny space in downtown Chicago.
So, 10 years later and 3 kids - here we are in the middle of planning again - Paris this time and other parts of France.
It helps, I know, that I'm half French and grew up overseas for at least 1/2 my life.
So back on planning!!! We've learned a LONG time ago to rent apartments and homes with our size family and because Peter and I aren't very keen on having our children stay in another room in another part of the hotel. Most hotels in Paris and other parts of France do not have connecting rooms and none sleep 5 as a general rule, unless they offer separate apartments - like the one in Versailles - Le Hotel Residence du Berry.

Trains

Trains are fun but can be frustrating! I like to plan way ahead of most people. This is probably because my brain seriously NEVER returned to the way it was B.C (before children!)And short term memory is literally a thing of the past! So if I don’t do something right then when I think about it doesn’t get done. Still, trains are awesome ways to get around Paris and the rest of Europe for that matter.

Plus, planning for a party of 5 people with frequent flyer miles, credit card rewards, etc. it's enough to make a person's head spin. Still, it gets us over here at least for free so can't complain!