:: paunnet ::

Bluegingerdoll giveaway winner + Craftsy offer

2013-05-18T09:47:00.002+02:00

The winners of two copies of the Billie Jean dress pattern are...

Congratulations! Please check your inbox for an email from yours truly.
If you didn't win, remember that you still have until the 19th to get this pattern at its pre-sale price.

To make this post a little more useful, I also wanted to mention an incredible offer from Craftsy, the online hobby-learning platform.*

On May 18th, Craftsy is hosting Free Class Day to benefit DonorsChoose. For one day only, new members can choose one free course from a selection of favorite Craftsy classes, up to a $39.99 value. If you haven't taken a Craftsy class yet, this is your chance to sign up for your first by choosing from classes in quilting, sewing, knitting, cake decorating, and more.

If they meet their goal of giving away 10000 classes, Craftsy will donate $5000 to DonorsChoose to fund arts education in public schools across the US. Existing members are not eligible for the free course offer, but will still receive a special treat.

Isn't this great? I'm a big fan of their courses (especially this one and this one), so I think this is an awesome opportunity!

*this post contains affiliate links

La Mia Boutique 05/2013

2013-05-17T01:34:00.002+02:00

FINALLY!
The LMB people seem to have recovered from the general insanity of the last months.
Sure, this issue is not all gold, but when there are more than 3 patterns I like, I take it as a very good sign.

The cover and the first photoshoot are inspired by Grace Kelly. YES!
Elegant, feminine, classic vintage silhouettes... What can I ask more? I'm not crazy about the very aging styling, but let's not dwell on that.

LOVE the princess-seamed bodice with the unusual dart placement. The bow belt is a very cute touch.

This dress had me literally squealing over it. So many lovely details. It even has French pockets!

I don't care too much for the coat, although it's not bad at all, the dress is the true star here. Another very, very nice vintage inspired dress with a beautiful pleated skirt.

Then we have something more modern but equally beautiful. The neckline is absolutely stunning and the draped skirt looks very elegant.

I think I'd love this dress a lot more just with the short, gathered sleeves. That's one pattern piece that I'm possibly going to trace and use as a variation on another pattern.

This looks more like a dress to me, but it's styled as a tunic with pants underneath (sorry, I scanned the wrong photo). Anyway, it's a very cute garment, although maybe not for the best for someone who's trying to hide a bit of belly.

Oh my goodness, the crazy stylist is at it again... I'll let slide, for now.
The top with the cowl is as cute as it is simple and I like the kimono/bathrobe pattern, it could come in handy if I decide to make myself a robe.

Dear LMB stylist, that hat is just too much. Now you crossed a line. Ok?

That being said, the patterns here (plus-size) are very cute, I just love them both.

So, overall... YAY! I'm crossing my fingers this is a sign of good things to come from this magazine, although they are usually pretty inconstant with their stuff. We shall see...

While we're on the subject of sewing magazines, can anyone help me figure out why there's still no complete preview of the June issue of Burda on the Russian site? The magazine is already out and the photos and technical drawing usually have already been up for a while. I'm worried! :(

Interview: Bluegingerdoll Vintage Inspired Patterns

2013-05-14T15:29:00.000+02:00

Today I'm happy to have Abby of Bluegingerdoll as a guest, she's a new indie pattern designer who specializes in vintage inspired creations. You know you want to know more about her!

Can you tell us a bit about yourself and your background? When did you start sewing?

I'm Abby and I live in Melbourne, Australia with my boyfriend and our 2 crazy dogs, Kenobi and Winnie. I have a love of all things vintage, especially the 40's and 50's. I also have a horse and love to go riding (when I can!), love cooking up a storm, crime shows, summertime and potato chips!

I was taught sewing in high school briefly, to be honest I really didn’t take to it at first, I actually hated going to sewing class, the teacher was a total bore, but fast forward a few years in my 20’s and I become really inspired about the thought of creating my own clothes and sewing them, and actually having the wardrobe I have always wanted. I quickly became obsessed and haven't stopped since.

How did you start Bluegingerdoll Patterns? What pushed you to begin making sewing patterns?

I started drafting sewing patterns, for a few reasons, one being the commercial patterns that are available, aren’t really inspiring and the designs not really my style at all, and let’s not talk about the random and constant fitting issues with the patterns. Original vintage patterns were what I usual sewed with, but were becoming increasingly expensive and hard to find anything in my size. So I guess the drafting come from necessity, and it felt like a natural creative step from sewing as well. I also had all these design ideas but no way of creating them unless I drafted the actual pattern myself. So I started to teach myself to draft patterns, first starting with modifying vintage patterns then onto the drafting patterns from scratch. I found that I totally loved it and I really wanted to hone my skills with this craft, so I decided to learn from the pros and studied a Diploma of fashion design and technology.

I have also always wanted to own and run a small business as well, and become my own boss and realising I had a passion for sewing and pattern making, I decided it was high time to start making that dream a reality. I could totally see myself being extremely happy and content doing this day in, day out. And I decided my designs were worth sharing with the world, and so Bluegingerdoll was born.

Tell us more about your first pattern, the Billie Jean dress.

Billie Jean is a beautiful 1950s vintage inspired dress. It features a fitted princess seam bodice, which is designed to enhance the waist, and an alluring and flattering neckline design. It is a versatile and easily adaptable dress that is wearable in all seasons, day or night, and suits a variety of different fabrics. Perfect for experimentation and for you to add your own individual touch. There are 2 dress styles to choose from, in the pattern:

Dress 1 - A fully lined figure hugging wiggle dress, flattering all the right curves.

Dress 2- A fun full gathered skirt, with lined bodice and practical in seam pockets.

Both close with lapped zipper at centre back. I have created instructions for that are easy and clear to follow with loads of diagrams, which will ensure the sewing of Billie Jean is straight forward. Billie Jean is also available in paper or PDF patterns.

Where do you see your pattern company in the future?

Billie Jean is the very first pattern release for Bluegingerdoll, and the huge amount of positive support I have received through Facebook, Twitter and the blog, has validated it for me, that I am on the right track and maybe a little bit closer to my dream of being able to making the pattern business a full –time gig. In the meantime though, the next pattern design is in the process and is hot on the heels of Billie Jean for release, and the plan is for a few more designs to be released later on during the year.

Thank you, Abby!

To celebrate the launch of her first pattern, Abby was also kind enough to offer 2 copies of the Billie Jean dress pattern to my readers. The winners will choose if they prefer the pdf or printed version.
Because the pre-sale of this pattern ends soon (on the 19th), this will be a very very short giveaway, so whoever doesn't win can still take advantage of this offer.

In order to win, leave a comment below before Friday, May 17th at 11:00pm GMT.

Please leave an email address so I can get in touch with you (you need to write it in the comment, because I cannot access the address you leave in the Disqus form).

For en extra chance to win, like Bluegingerdoll on Facebook and leave a separate comment.

Good luck, everyone!

Me-Made-May 2013 - Week 2

2013-05-12T23:21:00.001+02:00

THURSDAY

Blouse: Datura blouse by Deer and Doe (originally blogged here)

Cardigan: Zara (old)

Jeans: second hand

Shoes: Converse

I was a bit under the weather the first half of the week, so taking pictures of myself was the last thing I wanted.
I still wasn't 100% on Thursday, so my Datura blouse was the perfect compromise of style and comfort.

I really need to make the bust darts shorter if I make this blouse again, because they look like nipples right now. I wasn't very noticeable on a print, but it bothers me a bit in this chambray version.

FRIDAY

Shirt: Pimkie

Skirt: Beignet skirt by Colette Patterns (first seen here)
Tights: H&M

Shoes: Pimkie

I can't believe this skirt already has almost three years. It's still one of my most worn makes, and I get to wear it all year round. It also appeared in last year's me-made-may.

Everyone raves about this pattern, and it's totally deserved.

SATURDAY

T-Shirt: Pimkie

Skirt: Kelly skirt by Megan Nielsen (originally blogged here)

Flats: Les Lolitas

This isn't exactly the most exciting outfit ever, but it was one of those days when I spend too much time getting ready on hair and makeup and then I end up having less than 5 minutes to get dressed. I didn't even have the time to put on a necklace.

Anyways, I told you multiple times how much I love the Kelly skirt, so I won't spend any more time on that. Although I'll say that I definitely prefer this skirt in a stiffer material (such as my black version), rather than this denim, that has a bit more drape to it.

SUNDAY

Dress: Lily dress by Colette Patterns (originally blogged here)
Cardigan: local market

Shoes: Pimkie

Oh, this dress. I love it so much... in theory. The colors are a bit too bold for my everyday life, and the material wrinkles so terribly (you can see it in the photos) that it gets worn very rarely. I also think the styling of these photos is not the most inspired choice: this dress begs for sandals and a more relaxed hairstyle.

However, I was surprised at how comfortable it actually is: I was afraid that this kind of skirt was going to be a bit too tight for everyday, but it's actually not at all. The kickpleat really makes your life easier. I really hope to make another version of Lily in a better material sooner than later.

So, I didn't make up for last week's fail, but I still kept up with my pledge of 4 me-made outfits. I can't believe we're almost at half!

The Original How Much Fabric? Reference Cards: review and giveaway

2013-05-09T19:00:00.000+02:00

Today I want to tell you a but more about my new sponsor, Gwen from GwynHug, and her product, the Original How Much Fabric? Reference Cards. As a disclaimer, I didn't pay for this product, I received it for review purposes, but I am giving you my honest opinion. If this bothers you, please don't read this post, but if you have followed me for a while, you know that when I don't like something, I don't have ANY problem to say it.

So, what are these cards and what do they do?

The name says it all, really: these cards will help you figure out how much fabric you need to make a certain garment. They are both available as physical cards or in e-book format, measurements are Imperial OR Metric and they come in different sets (Women's Clothes, Plus Sizes, etc.). I have the Women's Clothes e-book ready to use in my smartphone.

Consulting these cards is easy, and very similar to using the tables on the back of a pattern envelope. The big difference is that here you don't have just one number, but three for every size: minimum, average and maximum. By using the sketches on the back of the card (or on the following page, for the e-book version) you can easily figure out if the amount of fabric you need falls in the minimum, average or maximum section depending on the garment you want make, and on factors such as length, fullness, presence of sleeves, etc.
There are five sections respectively for dresses, pants, skirts, blouses/shirts and jackets/coats, so basically everything is covered.
The number you get is thought to be as precise as possible, but there are are also safety margins that you can add to your number in case you want to be extra careful.

If my explanation wasn't clear enough, here's a very helpful video to see how they work.

So, why not just using the fabric requirements on the back of a pattern envelope?

Well, I ~~don't always~~ never carry patterns with me when fabric shopping, so I'll often see a fabric and think: "That would be perfect for that pattern I bought last year". The cards not only help me figure out how much fabric I need, but also not to overbuy, which is something I always do, worrying that I won't have enough fabric, and end up with remnants too small for a project, but too big to throw away with a clear conscience. I have a huge pile of those, believe me.

I was very impressed by the amount of work and research behind the creation of these cards: the fabric requirements from 8000 patterns were used to give the most accurate estimate possible.
If you’re like me, and you frequently buy fabric with an idea of the garment you're going to make, but you don't carry the pattern with you, these can make your life so much easier! I also often buy pre-cut lengths of fabric, and the cards can help me figure out what I can and cannot make out of them.

Want to win a set of The Original How Much Fabric? Reference Cards?
Gwen was so generous to offer two sets to my readers: one for a US reader (in yards) and one for an International reader (in metres.) You can choose between e-book or physical format and which set of cards you’d like.

How to win:
Go on Gwyn's website and choose the set that you prefer. Leave a comment on this post, stating which set you would like to win (metric or imperial) and an email where I can contact you in case you win.
You can enter from now until Saturday, May 18th at 11:00am GMT.
One entry per person. Winners will be picked randomly.

Good luck, everyone!

Me Made May 2013 - Week 1

2013-05-05T23:38:00.001+02:00

Woohoo! It started!

THURSDAY

Blouse: Airelle blouse by Deer and Doe

Cardigan: Zara (Old)

Jeans: no brand

Shoes: Converse

I never blogged about this Airelle I made last Autumn, but I've been wearing it quite a bit.
The idea is the same as this other blouse: I refashioned a man button-up using the Airelle pattern, this one is just sleeveless.
By the way, the blue refashioned Airelle didn't survive the winter (ie I threw it away), because the material was too stiff and it was just uncomfortable to wear. This yellow one is a lot softer, so it works much better. Lightweight fabrics work much better with this pattern.

FRIDAY

T-shirt: Banksia top by Megan Nielsen (originally blogged here)

Jeans: no brand

Bag: Fiorucci for OVS

Shoes: Pimkie

I really need to make more knit Banksia tops. This one was an experiment and although the fabric is not the best quality and print-wise, I really like it. Extremely comfortable for running around all day, with the added cuteness of a Peter Pan collar.

SATURDAY

Shirt: Fiorucci for OVS

Skirt: Kelly skirt by Megan Nielsen (orginally blogged here)

Bag: vintage

Shoes: no brand

I love this outfit, even more so after my brother made the snide comment that I looked like Minnie Mouse. Like that could EVER be an offence to me (or to other awesome people)!

Anyway, this skirt seriously goes with everything, and looks great with everything. Thank you forever, Megan, for this pattern.

Now, there's no me-made look for today (Sunday). I came back from work late and completely exhausted, and it was raining. I just changed in my pj's and gave up, so to compensate today's fail (my pledge is four times a week) I'll try to go for five me-made days next week!

How did your first me-made week go?

Laurel dress (in the nick of time!)

2013-04-30T20:45:00.000+02:00

Pattern: Laurel dress by Colette Patterns

Size: size 4 for the torso, graded up between a 6 and an 8 at the hips. The length is more or less of size 8.

Alterations: Lowered the bust dart by 1,5cm and shortened it by 1cm. Took the waist in slightly. Added in-seam pockets. Omitted the zipper.

(As you can see, I decided to add this quick list at the beginning of my posts, à la The Sew Weekly, House of Pinheiro, True Bias, etc. This is meant as a reference for those who are not interested in the rest of the post or are returning here looking for this information.)

If you follow me, on Twitter or Facebook, you might know that I started working on this dress just Saturday (which actually became Sunday night...). OOPS!

As every other seamstress on the Internet, I got incredibly excited when the Laurel dress contest was revealed over a month ago, so I purchased the pattern almost immediately, even though I wasn't completely in love with it.

I had planned to take my time with the muslin and had enough ideas for at least two versions.

But of course, I hadn't taken into account the fact that I SUCK at plans and that I'm the biggest procrastinator on Earth, so there I was, two days before the deadline with an ill-fitting muslin and not enough time to make the block printed fabric I would have wanted.

I couldn't just give up, so I made another muslin and went digging for fabric in my stash.

The first time around, I had cut a muslin for the blouse version, taking for granted it had the same fit as the dress.
Boy, was I wrong! The blouse has a weird armhole curve and was desperately calling for an FBA on me, while the dress fit me quite well since the beginning (I just had to move the bust dart slightly and adjust the side seams to my curves).

And at the muslin stage, I also noticed I could easily slip into and out of the dress without a zipper, so I happily omitted it.

If you add that the bottom and sleeves didn't need hemming because they were cut on a border print, this dress took me little more than an hour to make, which is fantastic.

Actually, I couldn't cut one of the sleeves on the border, so i stitched as if it was a trim... Can you notice it? It's practically invisible!

This beautiful fabric is part of a precious gift my boyfriend's father made to me last year, he gave me these beautiful vintage batiks he had bought in Indonesia and kept for over 30 years. I used another piece to make a Hazel dress (again, from Colette patterns!) last summer.

These fabrics are even more dear to me now, since he passed away last winter, which still feels unbelievable to me. I know this is a great way to remember him.

Anyway, final thoughts on this dress: it was a surprise to me, but I really really love it! I was afraid this silhouette might look "nightgown-y" on me, and although it's probably not the most flattering for my body, I like it a lot. It's loose enough to be comfortable, but not as much as to be unflattering, and it's a great balance between casual and girly. I definitely understand why this pattern is getting so much love, now!

Who knows? This might not be the last Laurel I make...

Datura blouse with cutout neckline

2013-04-25T20:33:00.000+02:00

When I posted about my Peter Pan collar Datura, many of you expressed curiosity towards the the cutout version. So it's not exactly by popular demand that I made this second version, but your comments definitely pushed me.

And when I found this lovely light blue cotton that looks a lot like my new love, chambray, I decided it was a good marriage.

I swear my hair is not neon orange in real life... EEK!

I often have the tendency to overcomplicate things, but this time I kept it as simple as I could and used the same fabric for the whole blouse, bias binding included. I really like how this creates a good balance with the many, lovely design details of the Datura.

And just for fun, I styled it in two different ways. I don't think it looks at its best with the skirt, but it's just because this fabric is not as soft as I'd like it to be, so it gets a little messy when you tuck it in a waistband. Other than that, I think it's a very versatile blouse that can be worn in many ways.

The cutout neckline is much simpler to construct than one might think. You just need some patience attaching the bias binding.

The yoke is lined and I also used French seams for the side seams, so the inside looks immaculate, which is always a plus in my book.

And to wrap up this short post, a little announcement:

"I, Anna of paunnet, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May '13. I endeavour to wear a self-made accessory or item of clothing for at least four days a week for the duration of May 2013."

Last year, my pledge was three days a week, so in the spirit of challenging yourself, I added one more. I think four days a week is a good compromise. I do wear a lot of handmade garments, but I don't want to take a picture of myself every day. For me, it would be more stressful than fun, which is what this challenge is supposed to be. Four will be a challenge for me, but one I can handle.

Are you taking part?

Burdastyle Magazine 05/2013

2013-04-17T23:57:00.001+02:00

I've been wanting to photograph three finished projects and post about one of them since last week, the fact I managed to shoot not even one of them made me bitchier than usual.

YOU ARE WARNED.

But enough about me, let's dive into this review of "Sewing Rectangles Magazine":

You have your sheer rectangle with rectangle-shaped seams and a bow....

The rectangle shirt with asymmetrical hem and rectangular sleeves...

The rectangular lace top with a rectangular lining...

The rect.... WOT?!

A rectangular sleeveless sweater with a rectangular panel of lace peeking out and a triangular cutout?

OH MY GOD! I've been waiting all my life for this!

And finally, the masterwork: a top made of twisted rectangles.
GENIUS!

But if you're a plus-sized lady, don't be afraid, Burda will help you look as big, boxy and dowdy as you can:

If a model can look this bad in these clothes, so can you!

If you're eyes aren't hurting enough yet, feast on these granny panties: they're perfect to look as if you're wearing a diaper!

And what about this little number? They were so kind as to style it as tragically as usual, so that we just couldn't ignore how ugly it is!

The funny thing is, if you chop this pattern at the waist, it makes one the few patterns I like in this issue:

Cute, right? What a difference a ruffled hem makes...

And these two are probably the only two other things that picked my interest in this issue (the second one being a vintage pattern... duh), although I'm too consumed by my own sarcasm to give them a decent commentary.

Seriously, guys... WTF? The FIVE "variation on a rectangle" patterns could be a new low for Burda.

Am I right?

I am SO glad I didn't renew my subscription...

La Mia Boutique 04/2013

2013-04-10T20:46:00.000+02:00

For once, I'm writing a review and I find myself without a lot to say.
I don't know if it's a good or a bad sign for this issue, or maybe it just means it's forgettable.

One thing that struck me, is that there are a s**tload of sheath dresses this month:

These two are part of what is described as a 50s inspired photoshoot... Do you see it? I don't. Not even the styling looks vintage.
Anyway, I kind of like the second one, with the faux top underneath.

These two are as generic as it gets. I really don't have any comments, except that dog is as adorable as it is random.

More randomness... A wedding dress.

Is the model mad because she has a huge bow attached to her back?

Now, the only two pieces I really like in this issue.
The dress looks very chic on the model and the cinched waist makes it very wearable.
The jacket is just incredibly cute, with the cropped sleeves, the rounded lapel and the two buttons.

Finally, we have a Carmen Miranda inspired photoshoot (again, why? So random...).

Can you visualize how excited the LMB stylist must have been when he was told about this theme? If you read a few of my reviews of this magazine, you know that I HATE the styling and I'm convinced whoever is in charge might be a little crazy. It's always bold makeup, chunky jewelry and generally A LOT of accessory, so this must have been a field day for the guy.

But to be fair, some of the garments are actually cute.

That's it. All I had to say.

Since I'm ~~running out of space in my room~~ in a spring cleaning mood, I decided I'm not going to keep this issue, so it's for sale on eBay.

I also listed a bunch of old issues that need a more loving home, so please check this link out if you're interested.

Chambray Bleuet dress

2013-04-05T21:00:00.000+02:00

This is a love story.

It all started last year, at the end of summer, when I heard rumors of a new indie pattern company called Deer and Doe. After I ~~began stalking~~ repeatedly manifested my interest in this, Eléonore, the designer, asked me if I wanted to have a preview of her designs and give her my opinion on them.

Being curious as a fox, I jumped at the chance and my jaw dropped when I saw Airelle, Belladone, Pavot and Sureau.

But then I saw Bleuet, and it was true love.

By now, you know ad nauseam how much I like these patterns, but Bleuet was a whole other deal.

It was the shirt dress I had always wanted but that nobody (me included) had never drafted. It had princess seams, a cinched waist, a pointy collar and cute puffy sleeves.

And then I saw the bow at the back and I was head over heels. Cutest detail ever.

Have you ever felt like a dress is just perfect for you? Like, it's flattering for you, and at the same time it's a perfect reflection of your style, of what you want to convey through your clothes?

It happened to me a couple of times, but this time it's THE ONE.

The fabric I used was chambray, another new love of mine. It's often listed in the recommended fabrics for Deer and Doe patterns, but I had never used it, for some reason. Now I could happily make an entire spring/summer wardrobe with it.

I paired it with squared mother of pearl buttons I found at my local market, which add another adorable touch.

The pattern is marked as an "advanced" level of difficulty and it might be the reason why this pattern is not one of the most popular. The construction is quite long and the 14 (or 15, depending on the size) buttonholes can be discouraging. I sure was thankful for the "memory" buttonhole setting of my machine.

In terms of fit, I made a muslin but I didn't need any alterations. I cut a size 38 at the shoulders, a 40 at the bust and waist and a 42 at the hips (based on other patterns I made from this company), and it was perfection. This is the reason I'm using Deer and Doe patterns so often, they fit me with little to no alteration. I'm a bit afraid I'm boring you guys, but can you blame me?

In conclusion, even if it takes a bit longer to sew, this dress is so worth it! I can't believe it took me so long to get cracking on this pattern. I've already planned a sleeveless version for this summer in a bright floral cotton, and I can't wait to make it!

Deer and Doe giveaway winner

2013-04-04T11:43:00.001+02:00

The winner of a beautiful Réglisse pattern is...

Congratulations, Becky!
Please check your inbox for an email from yours truly.

Burda Easy Fashion SS2013

2013-04-02T11:07:00.001+02:00

For those who are not familiar with this publication, Burda Easy (or Easy Fashion) is a biannual sewing magazine aimed at beginners and young seamstresses.

I swear I was so excited about this magazine when I first started sewing. It was awesome! I'll leave you a link to one of the first issues my mum got for me when I was learning to sew (here), it's in Italian, but just look at the pictures.

There wasn't a ton of patterns, but there were always many cute, interesting ones (this was also the "era" when indie patterns were almost non-existent).

Now, you'll understand what I mean when I say that this magazine changed a lot and dulled down immensely when you see this:

Fabric rectangles with elastic or a drawstring.
The last "skirt" doesn't even involve sewing.
COME. ON.

Followed by this. Disgusting.
And the styling is beyond ridiculous.

To be fair, there are a few nice patterns, although they don't justify buying this magazine at all, at least for me.
This pants can be a nice project for a beginner, although I wouldn't recommend that sash that ties right at the crotch to anyone.

I don't like this type of hem very much, but at least this is on trend.

I was so excited about this pattern when I saw the photo because I thought it had ruched sleeves, or something like that. Turns out it's a regular blazer styled with bunched up sleeves. Sigh.

This is kinda cute, although a shirt dress is probably the last thing I'd recommend to a beginner. Unless you have a very good machine, sewing so many buttonholes can be a pain.

This is a cute dress that was made in a terribly heavy fabric, styled poorly and photographed even worse. It has a lot of potential, though. There's also a blouse version of this pattern (you can see it above, paired up with the pants) and I like it a lot.

This issue is definitely a NO for me. Burda has increased their pricing, so one more reason not to purchase this.

What about you?

Peter Pan collar Datura blouse

2013-03-29T18:19:00.000+01:00

As announced on Facebook, here's my first Datura blouse!

It was made during the testing phase of the pattern, because this time around, I was lucky enough to be a tester for Deer and Doe's new collection.

I also made a Datura with the cutout neckline, but I can't show it to you because my mother fell in love with it and stole it from me (!!!) and also because the pattern was changed after I sewed it.

After taking part in this process, I can only say my respect for Eléonore is even greater: she really puts A LOT of work in her designs and takes the notes of the testers very seriously.

But anyway, back to my Datura.

Do you recognize the fabric? It's the same as one of my Banksia dresses, a lovely cotton blend that I got from Megan Nielsen. I had barely enough of it left to make this blouse, I'm so glad I never throw anything away.

This fabric was perfect for this pattern, because it has just enough drape without being too light, although it was quite difficult to photograph and a lot of the details (like darts and yoke seams) get lost in the print. That's quite nice in real life, but it's not the best to show a garment in all its details to the blogosphere, so I apologize for that.

I do plan to sew the cutout neckline version soon, but I guess you'll start seeing a lot of Datura's popping up, if you're curious to see more of this pattern.

I promise I started working out again after seeing this last photo. I can't stand my chubby arms anymore... But hey, I wanted to show you the back of the blouse, although once again, the details are pretty much lost in the print. The buttoned lower bodice is a bit like the one of my refashioned Airelle blouse and it's such a sweet detail!

The thing I love the most about this pattern is that while it's loose-fitting, it's still flattering on a curvy gal. No one wants to look pregnant!
It's also extremely versatile, as the pattern comes with two variations (three, if you omit the collar), it can be very casual or more elegant depending on your fabric choice and it can be worn as I did here or tucked in a high-waisted skirt (or shorts, or trousers...).

What else can I say about it? I can't recommend it more, if it wasn't clear from the rest of the post.

Is Datura on your sewing radar?

Deer and Doe 2013 Spring Summer Pattern Collection

2013-03-26T17:05:00.001+01:00

The new collection of patterns from Deer and Doe was launched yesterday and it was definitely worth the wait. Eléonore, the mind behind the brand, was kind enough to be my guest to present the new patterns and to share a few words with us on the creative process of her second collection. Enjoy!

This new collection was very interesting to work on, because my creative process was very different from the last time.

When I created the five first patterns, Deer and Doe was like a blank canvas on which I was free to draw exactly the collection I dreamed of. To achieve the second collection, I had more constraints: I needed to be consistent in the style, but original in the designs and the techniques used (because nobody wants to feel like he owns 4 identical patterns with just small style differences, even if the style is great!). Add to this a limited amount of time due to the everyday tasks of a business… I really worked on a different level this time!

But even if it was a little bit scary at first, I finally found that these constraints were helping me to produce better, more interesting patterns! I settled on a skirt, a blouse and a dress, and worked around the idea of easy-to-wear and fast-to-sew patterns for instant summer gratification! I added some interest to each of the patterns with cute features or interesting construction, and in the end Chardon, Réglisse and Datura were born!

Chardon is a skirt specifically aimed at beginners: it's a very versatile pattern that grows with your skills! You can start with a very simple version of the skirt, and then add details like the back ribbon, the belt loops, learn how to sew an invisible zipper… the possibilities are countless!

Réglisse is a very interesting pattern for intermediate seamstresses, because it introduces a technique very few patterns use: a bias-cut bodice.
While it's quite simple to construct, the bias cut totally changes how the fabric is hanging, and creates a very flattering effect! It's also a way to have a lot of fun with stripes or plaids!

Datura is definitely the most eye-catching design in this collection. While looking quite simple, this blouse will be really fun to sew for more experienced seamstresses!
The construction ensures a perfect finish, and a lot of interesting details like cut-outs, home-made bias tape, a lined yoke… and a very flattering result even for the bustier of us :)

As always, they were thoroughly tested before the launch to insure maximum wearability and comfort. Some of the patterns changed a LOT during this phase but it was very important for me to set the bar higher than the last time :) . I hope I succeeded!

I organize my patterns by collections because I love to create an harmony and to work with the seasons, but every Deer and Doe pattern is created to work well with the other garments: you can for example pair the Chardon skirt with an Airelle blouse, and how chic would the Datura blouse be styled with skinny jeans and a Pavot jacket for spring?

Thank you so much Eléonore!
~~But it doesn't end here! To celebrate the launch of the new collection, Eléonore is offering a Réglisse pattern to one of you!~~
~~In order to win the pattern, you just need to leave a comment! Please leave an email address for me to get in touch.~~

~~For extra entries, you can:~~
~~✄ Tweet about the giveaway (+1)~~
~~✄ Follow Deer and Doe on Twitter(+1)~~
~~✄ Like Paunnet blog on Facebook (+1)~~
~~✄ Like Deer and Doe on Facebook (+1)~~

~~For each additional entry, please leave an extra comment below.~~

~~You have until 11:00am GMT of April 3rd to enter. Good luck!~~

Giveaway closed, winner announced here.

Burdastyle Magazine 04/2013

2013-03-23T12:00:00.000+01:00

Before the review, a little public service announcement: if you're interested in following me on Facebook, I've just created a new public page. I'm keeping the old one just for my Etsy shop, so I can keep the two things separated.
I don't know why it took me so long to do it, but if you're just interested in the blog and want to be notified about new posts and have sneak peeks, you can "like" me here or using the button below.

Now, onto Burda!

I thought my subscription expired, but yesterday I found the issue in my mailbox, which means I won't have to deal with the "will I get it or not?" question. And that's good, because I was seriously undecided.
There's some good:

Stunning, actually!
The bustier-like bodice has princess seams and two small darts. I think this dress could look spectacular on every figure.
The bustier bodice is also available as a pattern, it's styled with an A-line skirt and it looks great.

Maybe not the most original design, but it's cute and summery. I love the little buttons at the back! Absolutely hate the ruffled band on the skirt.
The dog is too cute not to be mentioned.

I'm not big on maxi dresses (I don't know why, really) but this one is seriously cute. I love the necklines of both front and back, and the smocked waist makes it flattering and super comfortable at the same time.

Am I crazy to like this? I think it could be extremely cute (and a bit more elegant) without sleeves.

And this is basically it. There's a couple more nice patterns, but it's stuff I feel I've seen more than once on Burda.
But I'm not finished, because there's also some real ugliness in this issue, and I wouldn't be myself if I didn't complain about it on the Internet.

MY EYES HURT.
Not only is this unflattering and dated, it was made in SUEDE.
What. The. Bleep.

I don't know what this is and how is one supposed to wear it, but I hate it.

Tacky.
I'm sorry, many people will probably like it and many girls probably will look very sexy in it, and maybe it would look better if made in a more severe fabric, but I just find it vulgar.

UGH. A sack with ruffled sleeves and bottom.
Can you see the suicidal thoughts behind the model's sunglasses?

Plaid Laelia blouse

2013-03-20T19:14:00.000+01:00

2012 was the year that marked my reconciliation with France, or to be more accurate, with the French-speaking world.

You see, I've been studying French since I was 10, and while I've always been in love with the language and the culture, I've had the worst luck with my teachers. Were they Italian, French, Belgian or Swiss, they never had my sympathy. A couple of them were plain mean.
This, together with the century-long rivalry between Italy and France, irrationally reflected on my perception of French people. What can I say? It happens.

*If you're French, please don't be offended. I'm exaggerating a bit for the purpose of this post*

But then, last year, I became friend with Eléonore of Deer and Doe, I discovered some wonderful French blogs like Magali's and Gigette's and all my preconceptions disappeared!

The last blow came from the gorgeous pattern I used for this creation, the Laelia blouse pattern by Blousette Rose, a Belgian indie pattern company.

The pattern is available for both adults and children, but only in French, although the instructions are illustrated and not too difficult to understand, if you have some experience with sewing.

The design of this blouse is so unique! The front and back panels have a curved hem and they're overlapped under the armhole, but there's no side seam. There's also a bib detail and a gorgeous Peter Pan collar.

The style of this blouse is not what I usually go for because, being curvy, it's easy to look, you know...

...PREGNANT!
I know it's not the most flattering garment on me, but it's so cute and comfy for a lazy, casual outfit! It's more interesting than a t-shirt, but equally as comfortable.

I used some plaid viscose for my Laelia blouse and I cut the bib and back yoke on the bias to add some interest. I should have taken more time constructing it, because a curved seam on the bias using viscose is a pain in the butt!

But overall, I'm very happy about my blouse! It's been waiting to be photograph and blogged about for over three months, so I hope it was worth the wait!

Harts Fabric giveaway winner

2013-03-18T17:23:00.000+01:00

Drumroll, please...

Congratulations to the Garment Farmer (such a cool nickname)!
You'll be contacted shortly, so keep an eye on your email inbox!

La Mia Boutique 03/2013

2013-03-14T16:48:00.000+01:00

What do you know? First Burda, and now LMB comes out with a pretty decent issue.

There wasn't anything really ugly in this issue, so what you're about to see are the patterns I liked the most or found mildly interesting.

LOVE this dress, especially the little pleats of the skirt and the back neckline. The fabric they used is adorable! I'm not crazy about the cap-like sleeves (do they have a specific name? Enlighten me, please), but they can be easily avoided.
The styling is terrible (no surprise, there).

Such a cute shirt! I love the concealed button-band. The skirt is insanely short.
Again, I love the fabric choice and hate the styling, although I have a bit of a crush on this model and her makeup.

I love trench coats in general and this is no exception. I still haven't decided if I like that it hasn't a lapel, but I think I do.

You can't tell anything in the photo because they made it in black and the model doesn't really look plus size, but all in all, this looks to me like a very flattering dress with some design interest to it. What can you ask more from a plus size pattern (from any pattern, really)?
I really wish they did a better job with the photo.

Now, onto the less exciting stuff.
I don't know about the geometric detail. You need to really like. I think be really nice on a more mature woman.

Lots of interesting stuff going on here: asymmetrical hem, the shirring at the back to give more shape, the square neckline. I don't like everything about it and it's not the silhouette for me, but it's cute.

This doesn't like at all promising on the technical drawing, but once I saw it on the the model, made in a cute print, I really liked it. Again, not the silhouette for me, but it would look stunning on a tall, lean girl.

I like the skirt, but I really don't get the leather tank top, it's so 90's.

Again, I like the skirt but the top is just a rectangle with armholes, which doesn't flatter anyone.
The styling here reaches its peak of CRAZYNESS.

[CLOSED] Harts Fabric: 100$ coupon giveaway

2013-03-10T11:08:00.000+01:00

Since the beginning of March, I have a wonderful new sponsor*: Harts Fabric!

When I was contacted by them, we spoke about doing a giveaway and I suggested a pattern as prize, but guess what? They offered a 100$ coupon for you guys!

The winner will be spoilt for choice, as this shop has everything you might wish for. I was particularly attracted by the Decades of Style patterns, vintage reproduction patterns that I'm itching to try out.

To enter the giveaway, you need to be following my blog (via email or via rss reader) and leave a comment telling me what would be the first thing you'd spend your coupon on. Please leave an email address for me to get in touch.

~~For extra entries, you can:~~

~~✄ Tweet about it (+1)~~
~~✄ Like Harts Fabric on Facebook (+1)~~

~~For each additional entry, please leave an extra comment below.~~

The giveaway ends on March 17, 11:00am GMT. Good luck!

EDIT: GIVEAWAY CLOSED, THE WINNER WAS ANNOUNCED HERE.

Oh, and I didn't forget about the By Hand London giveaway. The winners are:

✄ Gwendolyn for the Elisalex dress pattern
✄ Pennie for the Charlotte skirt pattern

You're being contacted as this post is published, so please check your email!

*[If you're interested in sponsoring me, here is all the info.]

Inspiration: Lazzari SS2013

2013-03-05T15:21:00.001+01:00

I'm a huge fan of this Italian brand, and their latest collection didn't let me down. I mean, cat-shaped pockets and cat prints. Need I say more?

Source

Burdastyle Magazine 03/2013

2013-03-02T17:05:00.000+01:00

Very, very late, but here it is!

It looks like Burda FINALLY released a juicy issue. It is just my impression or spring issues are usually a little better than the rest?

But before we get to the nice stuff, let's get our hands dirty with some unavoidable ugliness:

Sorry, I had to include this. It made me laugh so hard.
Ugh, terrible.

Moving on and up a little bit, there a couple questionable patterns:

I want to like these blouses, but I just can't. I don't understand if it's because of fabric choices and styling, but they look so awkward to me!

It's so weird, the plus size patterns are usually classic and flattering design... Not really this month.

Another questionable pattern, meaning: I can't decide if it's different and interesting or plain weird. Although I'll take a pattern like this over the first one of this post any time.

Now... Are you ready for the good stuff? There's a lot of it!

Favorite pattern of this month. There's also a shorter version made in a non-sheer fabric that looks more casual and it's equally beautiful, but the gown is prettier to look at.

Of course, this is not a boob-friendly dress. I have a C cup and I can't go braless (I feel too self-conscious, I just can't) so I'm crying a little bit.

Classic. Understated. Great blank canvas for a number of variations. Love it!

The photo sucks, but this is so cute! Very flattering, and feminine with a touch of retro.

Very cute! The gathering at the center front adds interest and femininity.

For once, J'ADORE the styling of the photo.

Vintage pattern of the month.

If you have the right combination of fabric and lace trim, this could look extremely sweet.

This looks very similar to the princess seam dress above, but I love the idea of the contrast trim.

Gorgeous lines! Not that you can tell shit from that terrible photo.

Again, cute and retro. Not the dress for me, but this might look spectacular on a petite girl.

Are you happy?

This was the last issue in my subscription, and I think I would have gone and buy it if hadn't received it. What about you?bur

Interview: By Hand London

2013-02-27T19:46:00.001+01:00

These stylish girls and their beautiful patterns definitely don't need an introduction. They've been the talk of the blogosphere from months, so I'm sure you've already heard about By Hand London patterns. But if you want to know a bit more about the company from one of its creators, here's a few words from Elisalex.

Can you tell us a bit about yourself and your background? When did you start sewing?

Charlotte and I were actually at school together! We went down pretty different routes however after we left - I trained as a shoemaker and set up my own sustainable-high end shoe label, Nina Dolcetti, while Charlotte studied Classics and ended up working in marketing roles at various London startups. Sewing for me has been a long love affair; even as a child I had an insatiable need to make stuff! I messed about with my Mum's sewing machine a lot as a teenager, but it wasn't until I studied shoemaking though, that I realised my love of craftsmanship and decided to start really honing my skills. Charlotte was always a thrifting and customising expert and has had the sewing bug for the last couple of years, simply out of a desire to have more control over her style and is fast becoming a very skilled seamstress!

How did you start By Hand London? What pushed you to begin making sewing patterns?

By Hand London all began about a year and a half ago when Charlotte randomly got in touch to ask my opinion on a hare-brained scheme she had been cooking up. At the time I had just decided to pack in the whole shoes thing and had been mulling over some new ideas of my own. We met up and talked over a coffee (or three!) and realised pretty quickly that we wanted to join forces - what followed was months of late night skype-scheming, plans for world domination, and three ideas and two business plans later, By Hand London sewing patterns were born. It was then that we met Victoria - recent fashion graduate and London girl - in a stroke of internet matchmaking perfection, having advertised for an extra pair of hands getting things started. And then we got to set about creating our patterns! It's not been easy, that's for sure! It already feels like we've had some great successes as well as some seriously hairy moments. But we are so very proud of what we have created, and are so excited for everything yet to come.

What are your main sources of inspiration? Your favorite designers or style icons?

We find that our inspiration comes from so many different avenues, and especially since the three of us have our own very unique styles! We look to sewing blogs as well as fashion blogs, vintage fashion as much as contemporary, and of course, our friends and girls we see around London town. It's because of this diversity of style and influence that we decided to personify each of our patterns, basing them on a real girl we know and who's style we admire.

What has been your biggest challenge with By Hand London?

There's not really been one distinct thing; I think when you're starting out on a new venture the main challenge is finding your rhythm as a business - setting yourself achievable goals and deadlines, each finding and settling into our individual roles within By Hand, and also being supportive of each other and understanding each other's external commitments i.e. part-time jobs and kids!

Where do you see your pattern company in the future?

At this point while it's all so fresh and new we feel like we're bursting at the seams (ahaha!) with ideas and plans for the future and we definitely want to expand the By Hand brand beyond sewing patterns. Before we take over the world, however, we want to really get to grips with what's going on right now, continue to better ourselves and our products and really get to know who our customer is. But ultimately, sure - world domination! Mwahahahaaaa!

Thanks Elisalex! Very inspiring, right?

And guess what? The girls have very generously sent me one Elisalex dress pattern and one Charlotte skirt pattern to give away to my readers!

In order to win, just leave a comment below telling me which pattern you'd like the most and your email address, so I contact you.
The giveaway ends on March 6th, 11:00pm GMT.
Good luck!

Di Tutto Boutique 02/2013

2013-02-23T12:04:00.000+01:00

I mentioned this new Italian sewing magazine in my last (tragic) review of La Mia Boutique, but it looks like I was wrong on a lot of things.

First of all, this magazine is not published by the same people of LMB: different publishing house, different city, different everything. Well, not everything, the stylist of this magazine is the same man who worked on most LMB issues I've reviewed on this blog (isn't it that a little weird?).
Anyway, it was a legitimate mistake; why would you name a new magazine so similarly to an already existing one? It's confusing! It sure was for the 3-4 newsstand guys I asked this magazine to, they would all pull out LMB.

Furthermore, "Di Tutto Boutique" doesn't really mean much in Italian ("di tutto" means "everything", so "boutique of everything"?! Weird.).

My second mistake was, this magazine doesn't focus exclusively on patterns for knits. Again, a legitimate mistake because of the subtitle "Taglia e Cuci", which in Italian means "serger", but also "crafting/sewing" in general. I really think they could have put more thought into choosing their name.

That being said, this magazine is not bad at all. There are patterns for everyone: women, men, children and plus size women (hence the "di tutto", I guess).

The designs don't strike me as particularly bad or good, and I can't judge the quality of the patterns themselves since I haven't tried one yet. There are less patterns than in Burda and LMB, but the price is inferior as well.

Since this is the first issue, I'll include more photos than usual to give you a better idea of what's in it.

First up, patterns for women. The first issue is 20's inspired (just in the styling) and features some cute formal dresses. I like most of them, but you need an occasion to wear these to... Not exactly cake material.

And in the middle of the children patterns (sorry I didn't include any, but not having kids, I find them extremely boring) we have a random, badly photographed dress with a nice cowl and a seemingly interesting skirt.

The men patterns are quite nice, they look like modern, interesting pieces that a man could actually wear.

Finally, plus size patterns. Again, I'm not head over heels about these, but they're well designed garments with some nice details.

I wish they used a curvier model, you can't really tell these are plus size clothes. Also, WTF is up with this stylist and gloves? They're in every single shot except for one. They make sense in a Gatsby-inspired photoshoot, but with a jersey dress? With a PANTSUIT??

Please let me know if you're interested in reviews of Di Tutto Boutique, because as much as I love ranting with myself, I can do it off the blog.

I also mean to try and get in touch with the editors to ask them a few questions about this new magazine, so if you have any questions you want me to ask them, leave a comment.

Also, if you're one of the 1200+ Russian gals who come here for the magazine reviews, please stop by and say hi! I get a huge traffic from you but you're invisible!

Knit Banksia + Denim Kelly

2013-02-15T18:56:00.000+01:00

Oh my gosh, this feels like the first "hey-look-at-what-I-made" post in forever (if you're not counting the dress I made for Marie, which was a bit of a different story).

To get back into the rut, I present to you a cute, casual outfit made of two of the most awesome patterns in history: the Kelly skirt and the Banksia top, both by Megan Nielsen. I've already made both and declared my love for them here and here.

Both garments have been finished (and worn) for a long time, but I hadn't been blogged yet. They don't look at their very best paired together, but as much as I love them, I don't think they were worth a post each.

I finished the Kelly skirt just after the first one, using some denim generously gifted to me by my neighbor (yes, the same saint who gave me this dress).

This time around, I made the mistake of adding a button close to the hem... too close to the hem, actually, because this button won't stay closed. Lesson learnt. Although it didn't stop me from wearing this skirt to death both last summer and this fall/winter. An incredibly versatile piece.

The knit Banksia was actually finished around Christmas. I used Megan's awesome tutorial and it worked like a charm. If you like this pattern as much as I do, TRY IT, you will love it!

This was actually one of my first attempts with knits and it went quite well. I don't know why I've always been (still am, a bit) so frightened by knits...

The finishing on the inside is not perfect, I really need more practice. My machine doesn't love knit fabrics, but I'm sure we can make it work.

This post is also a great chance to invite you all know to vote for Megan in the Modern Craft Project. She can win a lot of money to invest in her sewing patterns, and she really deserves it. I've been voting for her everyday! You can vote her here or go here for more details.