Pawsitive Feedback's Dog Blog - www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Fear of Fireworks - Keeping Your Pets Safe During the Holidays

2025-12-29T17:41:00.000-08:00

With New Year's Eve around the corner, it is important to keep your pet safe and secure.   Many dogs are afraid of fireworks and loud noises. Here are some things to keep in mind to keep your pet safe and happy this holiday, especially if you are out celebrating and ringing in the New Year:

* Avoid keeping your pet in the yard. Fearful dogs will frantically try to dig, jump or climb their way out of the yard to escape the noise. Many dogs get lost and end up in the shelter this way. Every year shelters fill up with dogs that ran away from their yard.

*Make sure that your pet has proper ID in the event that he/she gets lost. Consider microchipping your dog because dog collars and ID Tags can break or fall off.

*Avoid the temptation to take your dog to fireworks shows or outdoors. A fearful dog could bolt and get lost. Fearful dogs can also feel trapped and may lunge or bite people or other dogs around them. Play it safe, keep them at home. I have read many stories about dogs who have fled or have been traumatized at fireworks shows.

*Keep your pets in a secure place for your pet stay in. This can be a crate or a quiet, pet-proofed room in your home that does not receive as much outside noise. Dogs can try to chew their way out of an area when scared so make sure it is a secure area. Close your windows and front door to shut out outside noises.

*What if you have a new dog or puppy and this is their first 4th of July? Play with your dog. During those hours when fireworks happen (usually 9 p.m. to midnight here in Los Angeles), play games with your dog. Play fetch or tug of war. Give your dog a toy to play with or work on a Nina Ottosson interactive puzzle with your dog. Click here for examples. Interacting with you will keep your dog's mind off the noises outside and on the games you are playing with your dog. Here is an example of my dog working on Tug-a-Jug under my supervision. She is so preoccupied with working on this toy that outside noises are unlikely to distract her:

*Consider playing music or keep the T.V. on as background noise. There is music that have been created specifically to calm dogs. Through a Dog's Ear is an example of music designed to keep dogs calm. You can purchase the CD on Amazon or play via Spotify

*Alternative remedies: For mild cases, some dogs respond well to flower essences and homeopathic remedies such as calming chews. Bach's Rescue Remedy for pets is one of the older brands out there and can be found in most natural pet stores. For homeopathic remedies you can consult with a homeopathic veterinarian for suggestions and dosage instructions.

*Body Wraps: many people have had success with body wraps which in effect "swaddle" your dog. I often use this product with fearful or anxious dogs. In her book, "Help for Your Fearful Dog," Nicole Wilde discusses a variety of methods of doing this and the proper way of introducing your dog to a wrap. In addition, there is a body vest marketed under the brand names, "Anxiety Wrap" and "Thundershirt" designed to achieve the same result. However, you should first acclimate your dog to the vest before a storm or fireworks so your dog does not react negatively to wearing the vest. Here is one of my dogs modeling a Thundershirt:

*Another calming product is Dog/Cat Appeasing Pheromone that can be sprayed on your pet's bedding or used as a room atomizer. There is also a collar version. It is usually sold in pet stores under the brand name "Comfort Zone" or "Adaptil."

*For severe cases talk to your vet: for severe cases of anxiety or if your dog is at risk of injuring himself/herself, prescription medication may be necessary to keep your dog calm and safe. In such cases, it is best consult with your veterinarian well in advance of the holiday.

My old akita had mild to moderate anxiety to fireworks. I made sure that he was in a pet-proofed room with the T.V. on and the windows closed. Sometimes I distracted him with toys and games he liked to play. I also used a Thundershirt and distracted him with Nina Ottosson puzzles which seemed to help:

Recommended Reading:

Los Angeles Dog Trainer: http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Keeping your Dog Safe this 4th of July

2025-06-26T18:11:00.000-07:00

With 4th of July just around the corner, it is important to keep your pet safe and secure.   Many dogs are afraid of fireworks and loud noises. Here are some things to keep in mind to keep your pet safe and happy this holiday:

* Avoid keeping your pet in the yard. Fearful dogs will frantically try to dig, jump or climb their way out of the yard to escape the noise. Many dogs get lost and end up in the shelter this way. Every year shelters fill up with dogs that ran away from their yard.

*Make sure that your pet has proper ID in the event that he/she gets lost. Consider microchipping your dog because dog collars and ID Tags can break or fall off.

*Avoid the temptation to take your dog to fireworks shows or outdoors. A fearful dog could bolt and get lost. Fearful dogs can also feel trapped and may lunge or bite people or other dogs around them. Play it safe, keep them at home. I have read many stories about dogs who have fled or have been traumatized at fireworks shows.

*Keep your pets in a secure place for your pet stay in. This can be a crate or a quiet, pet-proofed room in your home that does not receive as much outside noise. Dogs can try to chew their way out of an area when scared so make sure it is a secure area. Close your windows and front door to shut out outside noises.

*What if you have a new dog or puppy and this is their first 4th of July? Play with your dog. During those hours when fireworks happen (usually 9 p.m. to midnight here in Los Angeles), play games with your dog. Play fetch or tug of war. Give your dog a toy to play with or work on a Nina Ottosson interactive puzzle with your dog. Click here for examples. Interacting with you will keep your dog's mind off the noises outside and on the games you are playing with your dog. Here is an example of my dog working on Tug-a-Jug under my supervision. She is so preoccupied with working on this toy that outside noises are unlikely to distract her:

Recommended Reading:

Los Angeles Dog Trainer: http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Is your dog afraid of fireworks - safety tips for 4th of July

2021-06-26T17:13:00.000-07:00

*Consider playing music or keep the T.V. on as background noise. There are music CDs that have been created specifically to calm dogs. Through a Dog's Ear is an example of a CD series.

*Alternative remedies: For mild cases, some dogs respond well to flower essences and homeopathic remedies such as calming chews. Bach's Rescue Remedy for pets is one of the older brands out there and can be found in most natural pet stores. For homeopathic remedies you can consult with a homeopathic veterinarian for suggestions and dosage instructions.

*Body Wraps: many people have had success with body wraps which in effect "swaddle" your dog. I often use this product with fearful or anxious dogs. In her book, "Help for Your Fearful Dog," Nicole Wilde discusses a variety of methods of doing this and the proper way of introducing your dog to a wrap. In addition, there is a body vest marketed under the brand names, "Anxiety Wrap" and "Thundershirt" designed to achieve the same result. However, you should first acclimate your dog to the vest before a storm or fireworks so your dog does not react negatively to wearing the vest.

*Another calming product is Dog Appeasing Pheromone that can be sprayed on your dog's bedding or used as a room atomizer. There is also a collar version. It is usually sold in pet stores under the brand name "Comfort Zone" or "Adaptil."

*For severe cases talk to your vet: for severe cases of anxiety or if your dog is at risk of injuring himself/herself, prescription medication may be necessary to keep your dog calm and safe. In such cases, it is best consult with your veterinarian before the holiday.

My old akita had mild to moderate anxiety to fireworks. I made sure that he was in a pet-proofed room with the T.V. on and the windows closed. Sometimes I distracted him with toys and games he liked to play. I also used a Thundershirt and distracted him with Nina Ottosson puzzles which seemed to help:

Los Angeles Dog Training: www.pawsitivefeedback.com
Recommended Reading:

Los Angeles Dog Trainer: http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Halloween: a few safety tips for your pet

2020-10-27T12:06:00.000-07:00

With Halloween quickly approaching, I just wanted to highlight some safety tips for our pets:

Bring your pets indoors—even if your pet is used to being outdoors, bring your cats and dogs indoors. Unfortunately, animals can be the target of pranks and teasing during Halloween, especially black cats.

Keep your pet in a safe room —little children and energetic teenagers dressed up as goblins, pirates, scarecrows or the Grim Reaper may be a bit too much for our furry friends, especially if they are on the fearful side. Sometimes, it is best to have our pets in a safe room (covered crate, a gated-off area or a back bedroom) with a stuffed Kong or bully stick. With the door constantly opening and closing, we want to make sure our pets do not accidentally run out the door. So, keeping them in a safe room will prevent accidental escapes.

Make sure your dog has an I.D. tag and is microchipped - during the holidays is when a lot of lost pets are turned into shelters. Pets can accidentally run out of the door either because of fear or someone carelessly leaving the door open. Microchipping has saved many pets lives and resulted in many happy returns.

Make sure your dog knows how to "wait" behind the door or keep your dog on a leash - If your dog is going to be loose in your home (I prefer using a safe room), make sure he/she understands the cue for “waiting” behind the door and can handle seeing people in costumes. Keep your dog on a leash to prevent darting out the door. If he/she shows any signs of stress, anxiety, or aggression, put your dog in a safe room. Pet gates are another good option.

Keep your pet at home—Although it is tempting to have your dog go trick or treating with the kids, with so many strange looking people out and about, it can scare your dog. Your dog may panic and get loose or react negatively and nip a costumed stranger trying to pet him/her.

Go on Candy Patrol—often the day after Halloween, I find candy and cellophane wrappers on my porch and front yard. Make sure you check your home and front yard for stray candy so that your pet does not accidentally swallow it. Raisins and chocolate can be toxic to dogs as well as the artificial sweetener, xylitol found in chewing gum and other sugarless candies.

Beware of Jack-O-Lanterns & Candles—sometimes our pets are a little clueless about fire. Happy dogs with big wagging tails or cats jumping on a table can knock over a candle. Also young animals may be overly curious and burn themselves. Keeping your dog in a safe room can prevent these mishaps.

Some dogs hate costumes—while cute, some dogs are not very tolerant of costumes and can get cranky and snappy. If your dog looks stressed, unhappy or uncomfortable, take it off. Here is a primer on dog body language so that you can identify the more common canine stress signals.

A bandana is as much as my dog can handle. A costume would put her in a very foul mood.

Sheltering in Place with your pet - keeping you and your pet engaged during the Coronavirus epidemic

2020-04-05T12:15:00.000-07:00

During this pandemic sheltering in our homes has become a way of life. Being cooped up in the house can be challenging for both you and your pet.
Fear not, this just changes the activities that you and your pet can engage in. Here are some examples:

Walking your dog - in cities where it is permitted, you can keep up with your daily neighborhood walks.* Don't forget to wear your face mask and maintain at least 6 feet for social distancing. If you are unsure, consult with your mayor's or governor's websites regarding local guidelines for sheltering in place during this pandemic to make sure walking in your neighborhood is permitted.

*If you are a senior citizen or in an "at-risk" or "vulnerable" group, please make sure you follow your doctor's orders and/or city or state's guidelines regarding staying at home. Walking in the neighborhood may not be an option for you if you are at-risk.

Training – why not use this time in the house to reinforce some of your dog’s training? Put together a series of behaviors for your dog to perform and reward your dog for the last behavior in the chain. Go to your spot, lie down and stay is an example of a training combination. Or teach your dog a new trick. YouTube and other websites have videos of how to teach your dog to do simple tricks. Just remember to change the order and combinations of your tricks so your dog does not begin to memorize the order or sequence of tricks.

My YouTube Channel has some videos you can refer to for training dogs, cats and even birds.

Hide and Seek – playing hide and seek games where your dog has to find you in different parts of the house is a great way to reinforce your dog’s recall (coming to you). When training a dog to come when called, always remember that when they find you to reward them with effusive praise, petting and/or treats. Teach them that finding you is a big party.

Toys
Some toys can be used when the dog is left alone or for times when you need to keep your dog occupied (e.g.when you are on a call, you are busy at the computer, when you are having a meal). These toys must be fairly indestructible and have no small parts. Most people have Kong toys but there are many others you can order online or obtain from most pet stores.

Kongs (http://www.kongcompany.com) are great toys that can be stuffed with your dog's kibble, treats, and other foods. Your dog will spend a lot of time trying to get the contents out of the Kong. Think of it like a doggie pacifier. For heavy chewers the Extreme Kong (black version)would be a better choice. The Kong website has instructions on how to use it with recipes and I also posted a blog about the many uses of Kongs which you can read about here.

One of my favorite ways to use a Kong is to hide one or more Kongs around the house (I like to use places other than the kitchen or dining room) and ask your dog to find it. My dogs have been taught that the word “find it” means go hunt for the object. An empty Kong makes a great fetch toy as well.

Tug a Jug - This toy, made by Petsafe Pet Products, requires the dog to manipulate the jug and rope to try to get the treats out. If you use smaller treats, it is easier for the dog to get the treats. If the rope is destroyed, you can place balls in the jug for continued play. The other nice thing about this toy is that the jug is see-through so the dogs can see the treats inside. This toy has a high difficulty rating in my book so it may be too difficult for inexperienced dogs like puppies.
Here is a video of my two year old Akita, Kiku, who takes a patient and systematic approach to problem solving:

Twist and Treat – this is another similar rubber toy called the Twist and Treat is made by PetSafe. This toy is probably better for smaller dogs and less powerful chewers. This toy has the advantage of being adjustable depending on the size threat you are using so I find it easier for most dogs.

Buster Cube -  The Buster Cube has been on the market a long time. This was one of the original toys I used with my 10 year old Shiba Inu when she was a puppy. The Buster Cube dispenses dry treats randomly when the dog moves the toy around. You can also adjust the level of difficulty depending on the skills of your dog.

Kibble Nibble: This is another Premier toy similar to the Buster Cube. The object of the game is to roll the ball around to make the kibble come out.The ball is see-through and the dog can see how much kibble is left. It takes some experimentation to determine what size kibble/treat works best so that it is not too easy or too hard.

Here is video of my Shiba Inu, Mitsu, playing with the ball. She is almost 11 years old now and she is going after the ball with gusto. This video is not sped up, this old gal is actually this frenetic. She ended up playing with this ball for about 15 minutes, did a couple of shiba yells at the ball, got a drink of water and came back for another 10 minutes before I took it away from her. During the video you can see a treat flying out of the ball:

Toys Requiring Owner's Participation

This category of toys are toys that involve the participation and supervision of the owner. Examples of traditional toys requiring owner participation are balls, fetch toys, tug of war toys and frisbees. There are also toys that involve problem solving skills. Nina Ottoson has created a whole line of toys which help hone your dog's problem-solving skills and at the same time help develop the bond with your dog. These toys require human supervision and they must not be left alone with your dog because of the moving parts and materials that can be chewed up into small pieces if unsupervised.

The Dog Brick - this toy requires the dog to remove the bricks and slide the covers to get to the treats. The link provided contains an instructional video on how to use this toy. Below is a video I made showing how my dog solved the brick.

Dog Tornado: This toy has a higher difficulty rating than the Dog Brick and it is definitly more challenging. What is fun about this toy is that you can potentially put your dog's entire meal (especially for small dogs) in the Tornado thereby slowing down their eating and preventing gulping their food. Again, these toys require your supervision because there are small parts.

Here is a video of my female akita, who is a little more sophisticated at solving puzzles, using the Tornado at a more advanced setting to make it more difficult to have access to the treats:

Cat Training and Toys

And some of these toys are not limited to use for dogs. Even cats can get in on the fun. Here is my cat using the Dog Tornado as a way to keep her occupied and to prevent her from gulping down food too fast.

You can even train your cat to dog the same tricks as your dog!

For more videos on training you can go to my YouTube channel.

Take advantage of this time at home to bond with your pet and most of all, stay safe everyone!

Foul Weather Friends

2019-01-14T16:20:00.000-08:00

Now that the rainy season has officially started here in Southern California, you may find that you are holed up in your house with your pet because of inclement weather. Your dog may not be able to take his/her daily walks and whenever you look up you find a pair of big, sad eyes staring at you expectantly, anticipating every move that you make.

Fear not, being indoors just changes the activities that your pet can engage in. Rainy days are when I break out some of my favorite interactive dog toys and play some indoor games that reinforce my dog’s training. Here are some examples:

Training – why not use that time in the house to reinforce some of your dog’s training? Put together a series of behaviors for your dog to perform and reward your dog for the last behavior in the chain. Go to your spot, lie down and stay is an example of a training combination. Or teach your dog a new trick. YouTube and other websites have videos of how to teach your dog to do simple tricks.

Hide and Seek – playing hide and seek games where your dog has to find you in different parts of the house is a great way to reinforce your dog’s recall (coming to you). When training a dog to come when called, always remember that when they find you to reward them with praise, petting and/or treats. Teach them that finding you is a big party.

Toys
Some toys can be used when the dog is left alone or for times when you need to keep your dog occupied (e.g.when you have guests over, you are busy at the computer, when you are having a meal). These toys must be fairly indestructible and have no small parts. Most people have Kong toys but there are many others you can order online or obtain from most pet stores.

Kongs (http://www.kongcompany.com) are great toys that can be stuffed with your dog's kibble, treats, and other foods. Your dog will spend a lot of time trying to get the contents out of the Kong. Think of it like a doggie pacifier. For heavy chewers the Extreme Kong (black version)would be a better choice. The Kong website has instructions on how to use it with recipes and I also posted a blog about the many uses of Kongs which you can read about here.

One of my favorite ways to use a Kong is to hide one or more Kongs around the house (I like to use places other than the kitchen or dining room) and ask your dog to find it. My dogs have been taught that the word “find it” means go hunt for the object. An empty Kong makes a great fetch toy as well.

Tug a Jug - This toy, made by Petsafe Pet Products, requires the dog to manipulate the jug and rope to try to get the treats out. If you use smaller treats, it is easier for the dog to get the treats. If the rope is destroyed, you can place balls in the jug for continued play. The other nice thing about this toy is that the jug is see-through so the dogs can see the treats inside. This toy has a high difficulty rating in my book so it may be too difficult for inexperienced dogs like puppies.
Here is a video of my two year old Akita, Kiku, who takes a patient and systematic approach to problem solving:

Twist and Treat – this is another similar rubber toy called the Twist and Treat is made by PetSafe. This toy is probably better for smaller dogs and less powerful chewers. This toy has the advantage of being adjustable depending on the size threat you are using so I find it easier for most dogs.

Buster Cube - The Buster Cube has been on the market a long time. This was one of the original toys I used with my 10 year old Shiba Inu when she was a puppy. The Buster Cube dispenses dry treats randomly when the dog moves the toy around. You can also adjust the level of difficulty depending on the skills of your dog.

Kibble Nibble: This is another Premier toy similar to the Buster Cube. The object of the game is to roll the ball around to make the kibble come out.The ball is see-through and the dog can see how much kibble is left. It takes some experimentation to determine what size kibble/treat works best so that it is not too easy or too hard.

Here is video of my Shiba Inu, Mitsu, playing with the ball. She is almost 11 years old now and she is going after the ball with gusto. This video is not sped up, this old gal is actually this frenetic. She ended up playing with this ball for about 15 minutes, did a couple of shiba yells at the ball, got a drink of water and came back for another 10 minutes before I took it away from her. During the video you can see a treat flying out of the ball:

Toys Requiring Owner's Participation
This category of toys are toys that involve the participation of the owner. Examples of traditional toys requiring owner participation are balls, fetch toys, tug of war toys and frisbees. There are also toys that involve problem solving skills. Nina Ottoson has created a whole line of toys which help hone your dog's problem-solving skills and at the same time help develop the bond with your dog. These toys require human supervision and they must not be left alone with your dog.

The Dog Brick - this toy requires the dog to remove the bricks and slide the covers to get to the treats. The link provided contains an instructional video on how to use this toy. Below is a video I made showing how my dog solved the brick.

Dog Tornado: This toy has a higher difficulty rating than the Dog Brick and it is definitly more challenging. What is fun about this toy is that you can potentially put your dog's entire meal (especially for small dogs) in the Tornado thereby slowing down their eating and preventing gulping their food. Again, these toys require your supervision because there are small parts.

Here is a video of my female akita, who is a little more sophisticated at solving puzzles, using the Tornado at a more advanced setting to make it more difficult to have access to the treats:

And some of these toys are not limited to use for dogs. Even cats can get in on the fun. Here is my cat using the Dog Tornado as a way to keep her occupied and to prevent her from gulping down food too fast.

Teaching a Dog to Ring a Bell to go outside

2019-01-09T09:16:00.000-08:00

Today I was being interviewed at a local radio station about dog training. A caller off the air asked me about teaching a dog to let you know that they need to go outside. One way you can do this is to teach the dog to ring a bell. A few years ago, I taught my Akita puppy to ring the bell when she wants to go outside. The way I did it was to first teach my dog to “target” objects. That is, to teach her to touch objects with her nose. I started off with teaching her to simply touch my open hand and rewarding her with a treat when I felt her cold nose on my palm. Once she got the hang of touching my palm, I added a verbal cue such as “touch.” Once your dog learns to “touch” an easy object like your hand for instance, you can move on to teaching her to “touch” objects like a bell hanging on a door. Then, it is a matter of her making the association that every time she touches the bell and the bell actually rings, the door magically opens and she can go outside to play or go to the bathroom. It may take several sessions for the dog to make the connection that touching the bell means that you will open the door. I have woken up in the middle of the night to the ringing of the bell because one of my dogs had to make an “emergency” potty break. The funny thing is that my older dog who was never taught this behavior has picked up on it without any formal training and he also rings the bell when he needs to go outside. The following video demonstrates how to teach a dog to target an object and it also shows one of my dogs ringing a bell to go outside:

Caveat: Some smart dogs will start ringing the bell just to go outside and chase the squirrel or play. In these cases you must pay close attention to the behavior of the dog and her potty schedule. If I think that she really needs to go I open the door and escort her outside. If no potty happens, she comes right back inside. By careful observation, you can tell the difference by the urgency of the behavior. My dog started doing this and when I put her back inside, if she tried to ring again soon after (and I was pretty sure there she did not need to go to the bathroom, I ignored the ringing). Eventually the dog will learn that she gets to go outside for potty breaks but will be brought back in or ignored if the ringing is not related to going to the bathroom or if it is repeated or excessive. It requires pretty good observational skills and knowing your dog's typical "I need to pee behavior." So, you can see that there is a downside to this method and you will have to be careful about how you manage this behavior.

January is Train Your Dog Month

2019-01-09T09:07:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year! January is Train Your Dog Month. In 2010, the APDT began the National Train Your Dog Month to promote the importance and benefits of Dog Training so that our dogs can be happy and healthy companions. According to the APDT “too many dogs are turned into animal shelters each year for behavior and training issues that could be easily solved with proper socialization and positive, gentle, science-based methods of training.” Addressing behavioral issues early on and being proactive can help prevent these behaviors from turning into serious problems. In honor of Train Your Dog Month here are some dog training tips and resources:

1) Puppy Socialization: for those of you who have or are getting a puppy, socialization is one of the most important things you can do to give your puppy a head start. Socialization should start early. Even if your puppy does not have all his/her shots, you can have people come visit your home. Once your veterinarian clears your puppy for walks around the neighborhood, you can get your puppy used to the sights and sounds of a city for example. Brief car trips (to minimize motion sickness) where the puppy can stay in the car and watch people walk by is also helpful. You don't want your puppy's early car trips to be just vet visits as this can set up a negative association. So short, fun excursions are important for early socialization. Go slow, try not to bombard your puppy with too much at once. We want these experiences to be positive! Enrolling your dog in a well-managed puppy class that uses positive and gentle methods is one of the best ways for your puppy to get exposure to people and other dogs in a safe, controlled environment. For an explanation of why socialization is so important, here is a position paper written by the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior: AVSAB Puppy Socialization Paper

I cannot stress enough how important puppy classes are. Many dogs who are surrendered at shelter in rescues did not receive adequate training or socialization during the critical period in their puppy hood. Training classes can nip a lot of potential problem behaviors in the bud and head off more serious behavioral issues in the future.

Here are a few of my favorite puppy books:

2) Rescues and Older Adoptees – many people choose to adopt older rescues. The issues rescues face are different from puppies. While rescues have outgrown many of their puppy behaviors such as play biting and destructive chewing, they may not be house trained and may have fear or anxiety issues from being in a shelter, abandonment or other stressful experiences. It is important to be patient and work through these issues at your dog’s own pace. Respect your dog’s comfort zone and work at the speed your dog can handle. Pushing your dog too far too fast can trigger fear issues and set your training backwards a few steps. If your dog is ready for group classes, then that is a good start. If your dog is very fearful or reactive, then private training may be a better first step. A great book that deals with the unique issues that rescue dogs face is Pat Miller’s “Do Over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life.”

3) Maintain Realistic Expectations About Your Dog – besides respecting your dog’s comfort zone it is also important to be realistic about your dog’s abilities and personality. Some dogs may never be the social butterfly you want them to be and are in reality a homebody that prefers human companionship. Shy, older dogs may not enjoy dog parks and in the case of some middle-aged or senior dogs, large, group classes may be too stressful. However, that does not mean you can’t find a fun activity the two of you can do together, train in other settings or find dog friends that your dog can have one-on-one play sessions with. My Shiba Inu is not that social with other dogs now that she is an adult.  Once she reached maturity, she stopped playing with dogs at the dog park and would spend the entire time sitting with strangers at the park. It was at this point, I decided that she was no longer getting that much out of being at the dog park and instead I took her on excursions in the city or hanging out in cafes which she seemed to enjoy more. Respecting your dog's physical limitations is another factor to consider. My big, clunky 90 pound Akita is probably not the best dog for agility training (nor would I want to subject his aging joints to this particular activity). Forcing a square peg in a round hole, is not always the best for the dog and it can lead to unnecessary frustration on the owner’s part. Try to find activities that your dog also enjoys and work at your dog's own pace.

4) Find Fun Activities to Do With Your Dog – Training is a great way to bond with your dog, but it does not have to stop there. There are other ways to spend time with your dog such as hiking, camping or playing games. If your dog is very energetic and athletic, agility or other dog sports like flyball may be a great outlet. Try to figure out what activities your dog really enjoys.

To find out more information on dog sports here are some good sources:

Agility - http://www.akc.org/events/agility/index.cfm
Rally - http://www.akc.org/events/rally/
Tracking - http://www.akc.org/events/tracking/
Flyball- http://www.flyball.org/

5) Incorporate Training into Your Daily Routine – many of the things you learn in group class have practical applications in real life and should not end once the class is over. For example, “stay” or “wait” can apply to boundaries such as the front door or the curb and help teach your dog not to run out in traffic. Having your dog go to their bed or place is helpful when guests come to the home or when the doorbell rings. Incorporating training in your daily routine helps reinforce these behaviors so that your dog will retain these skills throughout his/her life. On walks, I practice “sit,” “wait,” “stops/halt” and recalls (“come”). Having a solid recall is one of the most important things to teach your dog and should be reinforced throughout your dog’s lifetime. If your dog has not had any training go to http://www.apdt.com/ or http://www.trulydogfriendly.com/ to find a trainer or group class in your area.

6) Keep Training Fun - I like training sessions to be short, fast-paced and fun. Since I own Northern breeds (Shiba Inu, Akitas) that tend to bore quickly and easily, I try to keep them engaged by changing things up and keeping it interesting.  Overly long training sessions, especially for young puppies and the more independent breeds, can lead to frustration for both you and your dog.

7) Exercise – a great New Year’s resolution is exercising with your dog. This is both beneficial for both and your dog! Exercise relieves tension and stress and stimulates your dog’s senses.

For more information on Train Your Dog Month go to: http://www.trainyourdogmonth.com/tips/

So with this New Year why don’t you make dog training one of your New Year’s Resolutions! Wishing everyone a happy and healthy year.

Mobility Aids for the Senior Dog

2018-04-20T12:06:00.000-07:00

One of my akitas is about 15 years old which is extremely old for a large breed dog. I have noticed that he is more stiff than he used to be and has a harder time getting around. So many articles are dedicated to puppies and younger dogs that I decided to devote this month's blog to addressing some of the needs of our senior pets. With old age comes achy joints and other issues which can make our loyal friends' lives less comfortable. The first thing to do is to consult with a veterinarian to determine whether medication or other treatments are necessary help your dog with arthritis and other joint ailments. Fortunately, there are also a number of products to assist your dog in getting around.

Lifts, Slings and Harnesses

Many large breed dogs have a harder time with mobility as they age. Often the rear legs become weak and they have a harder time getting up from a seated or lying down position. Here are examples of a few products that give your dog a helping hand:

Help 'Em Up Harness

This harness has both a front and back portion with handles so you can lift both ends of your dog. So for dogs that have very weak rear legs, it allows you to lift the rear end of the dog. he construction is lightweight and minimizes the amount of material which is nice if your dog is wearing the harness for a few hours at a time. I really liked the design of this harness and my dog tolerated the harness fairly well. I used the rear harness attachment when I needed to lift my dog into my SUV. Given that my dog is very large and about 85 pounds, this is no easy feat. The rear handle came in handy for these trips. However, most of the time, I used just the front portion of the harness to just assist my dog with a little lift to help him get up from a lying down position.

Front section of the Help 'Em Up which is the portion
I used most of the time except for when I needed to lift my dog into the car.

Ruffwear Web Master Harness

The company produces harnesses and foot gear mainly for outdoor activities but these harnesses can also be used for lifting the geriatric dog. I tested out the Webmaster harness pictured above. The harness provided enough support to allow me to lift my dog with little effort to get him back on his feet. Although it has a little more material than the Help 'Em Up, this harness is still lightweight and my dog tolerating wearing it well. Ruffwear also makes a harness with a rear end support but I did not test this particular design.

The Ruffwear Webmaster Harness - My dog tolerated this harness and it was
just enough support for light lifting to help him get off the ground.

Walkabout Harnesses

This is another company that designs harnesses and lifts for dogs. I received a sample but it did not fit my dog so I am unable to provide any information on how well my dog tolerated this support harness. It is more heavy duty in terms of the amount of neoprene used and there would be less ventilation compared to the other two harnesses above.

K9 Caddy (Sling)

For those dogs that do not tolerate wearing harnesses or other contraptions, a sling is a short-term option to assist your dog with a quick lift. There are many companies that make sling such as the Walkabout company above. I was able to revew the K9 Caddie which is a padded sling that you can slip under your dog to lift a front or rear portion of the body or simply to support the body on a walk.

Minimizing Slip and Slides

Often older dogs have a hard time getting up or walking on slippery tile or wood floors. There are a few ways to address the slip and slides.

Carpet Grips

I have wood floors and area rugs and dog beds can slide around when the dog tries to get up. One way to keep rugs and beds in place is to use an inexpensive carpet grip underneath.

Dog Booties

Dog booties with non-skid soles are another option for dogs that can tolerate wearing boots. Like any piece of equipment, some dogs require lots of positive reinforcement (usually treats) to acclimate to wearing them. Other older dogs may not tolerate wearing them. With my old guy, it was not an issue of whether he would let me put on a bootie but whether I could find one that would fit him. My dog has freakishly large feet and finding shoes his size was very difficult.

My dog's freakishly large, furry feet.

Ruffwear Skyliner Boots

Ruffwear markets this boot as an everyday boot suitable for senior dogs. The construction is like a tennis shoe with a rugged sole. I was able to get the boot on my dog's feet but the fit was not quite right for his shape foot.

Meshies by Barko Booties

Meshies is a lighter weight bootie sold by alldogboots.com. My dog fit into the XXL which normally fits Great Danes and Bernese Mtn Dogs. The mesh material is lighter weight and the anti-slide sole is less heavy duty than Ruffwear which has treads.

Summer Heat Wave - Keeping your pups cool

2017-09-03T16:13:00.001-07:00

3 Hot, Sleepy Dogs - heat will make your dogs more lethargic than usual.

We are having a prolonged heat wave here in Southern California and many people who live near the coast do not have central AC. Imagine having a fur coat and dealing with this heat. Here are a few tips to keep your pets a little more comfortable in this heat:

1) Walk your pets in the early morning or after the sun goes down. Not only is it cooler but the pavement won't burn the pads of their feet. My last post reviewed how to test the pavement to make sure it is safe for your dogs. Avoid hiking during a heat wave so that you do not expose your dog to the risk of heat exhaustion.

Walk your pet in the early AM or evening to keep them cool and protect their paws.

2) Evaporative Cooling - I will wet down the fur between the shoulder blades and back of the neck to help cool down my dog via evaporative cooling. If you set up a fan, dogs will sleep in front of the fan to enhance this effect.

3) Freeze a partially filled water bottle - wrap it up in a towel and place it near your dog. Often they will sleep against it or use it as a pillow. Senior dogs may not be able to tolerate the heat as well as younger dogs.

Kiku is sleeping against a frozen water bottle wrapped with a towel.

4) Raised loungers - raised bed or loungers can help with air circulation. And, many dogs like sleeping on them when it is hot. The lounger in the picture below is from Doggie Loungers.

5) Hydration - it goes without saying that you want to make sure your pet is well-hydrated. Keep extra bowls of water out if you are going to be out of the house for long periods of time.

Do you have any other tips you would like to share. Post them below. Happy Training!

Hot Weather Tips - Have You Done the Barefoot Test?

2017-07-10T14:53:00.000-07:00

On hot summer days I often see people walking their dogs on the sidewalk and asphalt in the middle of the day. I often cringe when I see this because the pavement can heat up significantly and because we humans wear shoes, we often don't realize how hot the pavement is.

I often have to work with clients using my dog, Kiku, as a decoy dog and I will not schedule sessions in the middle of the day because I fear the sidewalk and black asphalt will burn her pads.

I will often do what I call the barefoot test and put my barefoot on the asphalt to test out how hot it is. This last weekend the temperature in my neighborhood reached 88 degrees F. I did the barefoot test on my street and I could hold my foot on the pavement for only a few seconds because it was so hot.

At 88 degrees my foot started burning after a few seconds.

Avoid Peak Heat Hours - avoid peak hours by walking your dog early in the morning and in evening. Even then you may want to do the barefoot test because the sidewalk may still retain heat from earlier in the day. This test applies to all hard surfaces cement, asphalt and gravel.

Watch for signs that your dog is under distress: limping, licking feet, whimpering, walking gingerly, trying to get to the grass, lying down in the shade.

Puppy foot pads are more delicate - if you have a puppy, their feet are more delicate because the pads have not yet developed tough callouses. Be extra careful during the period when your puppy is in this phase.

Check your dogs pads for cracks, blisters, bleeding or burns. If you find any injuries, wash the wound with soap and water and take your dog to the vet for further treatment.

Check all hard surfaces including gravel. Here is a hot Kiku trying to get some shade

So this summer be mindful of your dog overheating and burning those cute doggy feet.

Holiday Gifts Ideas for Pet Lovers

2014-12-17T21:06:00.000-08:00

Do you need to give a gift for an animal lover? Want to give something meaningful for the holidays? Here are some ideas and suggestions:

Books

Here are some books that make nice gifts or are good holiday reading:

The Dog Whisperer Presents - Good Habits for Great Dogs: A Positive Approach to Solving Problems for Puppies and Dogs by Paul Owens. This book covers positive approaches to solving problems for puppies and adult dogs. It tackles modifying dog behavior from the perspective of changing habits. This book also has a unique approach to dog training called “Take a Vacation from Canine Education.” Those of you who have taken my classes might recognize this approach as a comprehensive version of the “Magnet Game” we play in class. Not only is this approach easy to follow but it takes the stress and pressure out of dog training. Small brag: my Akita and Shiba Inu are in some of the pics.

Reaching the Animal Mind: Clicker Training and What It Teaches Us About All Animals. This book explains why clicker training is such an effective training tool. Karen Pryor is a former marine mammal trainer that popularized the use of clicker training with dogs. Her book has many entertaining anecdotes that demonstrate the theories involved with training animals whether it be a dog, a dolphin or even a hermit crab!

The Science of Consequences: How They Affect Genes, Change the Brain, and Impact Our World. Here is one that is on my reading list this holiday season. Featuring illustrative human, pet, and wild-animal anecdotes, this book is a unique and fascinating introduction to a science that is truly epic in scope. Children quickly learn that actions have consequences. This elementary lesson is repeated again and again throughout adulthood as we adjust our behaviors according to the reactions they produce in the social and natural environment.

Do over Dogs: Give Your Dog a Second Chance for a First Class Life (Dogwise Training Manual) by Pat Miller. A great book for people who have adopted rescue dogs. Many people adopt dogs during the holiday season. This book addresses the behavioral and training issues unique to rescue dogs.

Donate to an Animal Rescue

During this time of year, animal rescues are in need. Consider donating money or even your time to an animal rescue. With the cold weather, many shelters and rescues need blankets and old towels to help keep the animals warm. If you are no longer using your dog’s crate, x-pen or leash, consider donating it to a rescue. Call first, to see if they have a need for your equipment.

Pet Portrait

There are many talented animal photographers in town who specialize in pet portraitures. An animal lover would love to have a professional portrait of their pet as a keepsake. A couple of people in town are:

http://www.pawprintspictures.com/about2.html - the photos on my website were taken by Erin Tomanek.

www.furryfotoes.com – I have used this company as well for pet portraits.

Gift Certificates

Many pet boutiques, pet stores, pet groomers and even certain dog trainers offer gift certificates you can give your friends. Recently, a client purchased some private training lessons for her mom to help with a newly adopted dog and another client purchased group lessons for her son and daughter-in-law. These make great gifts for someone who has a new dog or a dog that needs a bit of training.

Gift Baskets

Many companies can make dog-themed gift baskets. You can build a gift basket with dog treats and bowls or doggie toys. Here are some fun ideas for interactive dog toys that they will be sure to love:

http://www.blog.pawsitivefeedback.com/2010/01/interactive-dog-and-cat-toys.html

Peeing in the Rain

2014-12-08T22:29:00.000-08:00

A common complaint from dog owners is that their dog does not like to go outside to pee in the rain. My dogs are the same way. I open that back door, my dogs take a peek outside, see and smell the wetness and in the house. So what do I do on rainy days?

Wait for a break or light rain - most dogs don't like to go outside during torrential downpours so wait for a break in the rain or at least when it is a light drizzle.

Misery Loves Company - the simplest solution is to put on my raincoat and boots, leash up my dogs and walk around the neighborhood. My dogs are willing to go out on a walk in the rain because, well, their walks are a positive experience and walking out in the neighborhood is always fun and exciting for them. I also believe that dogs are more willing to walk on wet sidewalks than wet grass. So, while it is not so fun for you to walk out in the rain, I find that this is the easiest way to coax your dog outside.

Put Peeing on Cue - the other thing I did when my dog Kiku was a puppy was to put peeing on cue by teaching her to pee when I said the words "go pee pee." On rainy days this helps keep your excursions outside short and efficient. Even if your dog is an adult, it is not too late to teach your dog this verbal cue. So this is how I taught my dog to pee on cue:

1) When you go on a walk, watch for signs that your dog is about to pee. For female dogs, it is when they begin to squat and for male dogs leg lifting is a good sign. When you see your dog begin these behaviors, say your cue (e.g. go pee pee, go potty, etc). Some people say "hurry up" or "go now" but I never liked that phrase because people have a hard time saying it in a positive tone. It tends to come out anxiety-ridden or impatient

2) When your dog finishes eliminating, say "yes" and reward my dog with a treat.

3) You will need to do this for a few weeks so your dog makes the association between the words, "go pee pee" and the actual act of urinating.

4) After a few weeks, test your dog to see if they understand what the verbal cue means. When you get close to a spot your dog likes to pee at, say the words, "go pee pee," wait 10-15 seconds and see if your dog begins to eliminate. If your dog eliminates, say "yes" and give a treat. If not, you may need to repeat steps 1-3 for a few more weeks before attempting step 4 again. Eventually, you will be able to tell your dog "go pee pee" and your dog will know that it is time to go.

The above tips have been tried and true for me however, the following tips may also work for your dog:

Raincoats - some dogs do not like being rained on and a raincoat may help.

Wee wee pads - on very rare occasions where I had to leave the house for extended periods of time on a rainy day, I may leave a wee wee pad by the back door where they normally exit into the backyard.

Covered balconies and outdoor areas - for apartment and condo dwellers, sometimes it is helpful to teach your dog to go out on a balcony. Putting wee wee pads or boxes of sod can help encourage the dog to use this as an alternate elimination area but it helps if the dog is introduced to these areas early on when it is not raining.

Dog Bite Prevention - Leash Laws are Good

2014-05-21T09:36:00.001-07:00

In this 4th installment for Dog Bite Prevention Week, we address the issue of leash laws. In a recent article from the LA Weekly, State Farm Insurance has ranked California as the leading state for dog bite claims. State Farm cites it dealt with 449 claims in 2013 from California, which accounted for $14.7 million in canine-attack payouts by State Farm. Los Angeles accounted for 61 attacks on Postal employees. Although, the statistics do not seem to take into account pet population or housing density, these statistics do raise the issue of why the dogs are not behind secure fences, indoors or on leash.

There seems to be a growing trend for people to disregard leash laws and allow their dogs to walk off leash or roam their neighborhoods unattended. Several incidents have happened in recent months which motivated me to write a blog about leash laws. I have had several clients involved in incidents with off-leash dogs during neighborhood walks. In some cases, the off-leash dog and their dog got into an altercation. I have also worked with clients who have come to me after their dog had been attacked by an off-leash dog. In such cases, the dog is often traumatized and shows aggression to other dogs after the attack.

While it may be a sign of pride that your dog can walk off-leash or it may be based on the notion, that the dog is happier off-leash, leash laws serve several very important functions which help protect both the public and the animals living within city limits.

First, leashes help keep the dog within the owner's control. The leash will prevent your dog from getting into an altercation with another dog. Even though you think your dog is friendly, the other dog may not be friendly or may be very fearful. In addition, your dog may not like every dog he/she encounters. Leashes help prevent serious injuries from such encounters.

Second, not every human likes dogs. There are some people who are very frightened of dogs and being confronted by an off-leash dog (even if friendly), can be traumatic. In addition, children can be knocked over by a large, enthusiastic dog. Keeping your dog on leash respects other people's space and possible discomfort towards your pet.

Third, many people are working with reactive and/or leash aggressive dogs. Running into an off-leash dog can not only trigger an aggressive encounter, but can also set that person's training backwards. Many of these dogs are fearful and having a predictable environment helps the dog overcome that fear. Running into off-leash dogs when outside the safety of that dog's home can reinforce aggressive and fearful behavior. Many of my clients who are working with their reactive dogs have had runs with off-leash dogs and it is unfortunate that these run-ins can have such a negative impact on someone's training program.

Fourth, your dog may not respond to your verbal cues 100% of the time and there is always a possibility that your dog will chase somebody's cat and do harm to that animal. In a similar vein, your dog may chase another animal into oncoming traffic and run the risk of being hit by a car.

For people who allow their dogs to roam the neighborhood unattended (and yes, I see these dogs all the time), the same arguments apply. Your dog may be hit by a car or may wander into someone else's property where there is a territorial resident dog. Not only are there penalties for free-roaming dogs but there are issues of liability if that dog harms another person or animal or damages someone else's property.

So while many people have idealized notions of walking their dog off-leash, this is not practical or safe for a busy and crowded city streets like Los Angeles. There are designated beaches, hiking areas and parks where dogs can safely be off-leash. Leashes are not only for your protection but for the protection of other people and their dogs as well.

Dog Bite Prevention - Children and Dogs

2014-05-20T08:25:00.000-07:00

I am sure my parents thought this was cute
but the look on my face is not too happy. A friend
pointed out that the dogs are also stealing food off my
tray. Hey mom and dad, a little management please.
Fortunately, no harm came to this baby.

One of my earliest childhood memories of a dog showing aggression towards me was when I was probably about 3-4 years old and I was with my 4-5 year old toy poodle (we had 3 of them at the time). I had a fisher-price type train toy and I decided to play choo-choo train and my dog was going to be the caboose. I tied the string of the toy around my dog and then my dog growled at me. Add to the fact that this young dog was completely blind and he did not do more is quite tolerant. At some point one of my parents came in, untied the dog and got mad at me for bothering the dog. Needless to say, I never teased or mistreated my dog for the rest of his long life.

Sadly, small children under 12 years old are one of the most frequent recipients of dog bites. According to the AVMA, children between the ages of 5-9 are at greater risk of being bitten and seriously injured by that dog bite. Approximately 400,000 children receive medical attention every year. Most of the injuries inflicted on children are from everyday interactions with familiar or family pets. Children move faster than adults and toddlers move in a manner that seems erratic and odd to dogs. This video from Dr. Sophia Lin and illustrated by Lili Chin (the artist who did the doggy drawings on my website), really captures what a small child seems like from a dog's perspective:

This video highlights the importance of supervision and management when young children and dogs are in the same room or area. Here are some important things to keep in mind:

Be vigilant of stress signals - If a dog is showing stress, increase distance between the dog and the child. If you are in a house, separate the children and dogs using baby gates, crates or separate rooms. The following video is a summary of the major signals dogs exhibit when stressed:

Most dogs do not like hugs (or kisses) - there is a tendency for young children to want to hug, kiss or grab dogs much like a stuffed animal and this runs the risk of a bite to the face. Unlike primates, most dogs do not like to be hugged or kissed on the face so it is wise to make it a practice not to do this with your own dog so your child will not assume that it is o.k. to do it to other dogs. Teaching gentle petting is a better alternative. As I was contemplating this article I looked through all my childhood photos of me and my dogs and sadly in almost all of them, I have my dog in a tight choke hold. Another interaction that can provoke a dog is putting your face too close to a dog's face. Many children want to do this and try to kiss the dog.

Not digging on the hug
Notice the flattened ears and head tilting away from the person.
My dog is shy and is uncomfortable being grabbed or hugged by people.

Tolerating the Hug
This dog (who is blind) is tolerating the hug.
Notice the tense mouth and expression.

Tolerating the hug better
My dog is more relaxed,
I am not grabbing around the neck
but over the back

Here is a happy dog.
Face relaxed, mouth relaxed, perky expression
Apparently my dad had better manners than me.
But then, they are in Hawaii so who wouldn't be happy.

Teach your child the appropriate way to approach an unfamiliar dog - it is important to supervise your child around other animals. Teach your child to never touch another person's pet without permission and that you must be present. Here is a summary and video:

Instruct your children that a parent needs to be with them before approaching a dog.
Stand 6 feet away from the dog
Ask the owner for permission
Look for stress signals (see video above)
Stand still, let the dog come to you, do not go to the dog or hover over the dog. If the dog does not want to come, leave the dog alone.
Let the dog smell your closed hand
Remember - dogs don't like hugs. Gentle petting if the dog shows you he/she is receptive
If the dog shows stress signals or growls, stop what you are doing and slowly back away (don't run or yell). See my article on what to do if your dog growls at you.

Running or Loose dogs: Children should not yell or run away from dogs that are loose. This can cause the dog to chase and knock down the child. It is better for the child to stand still (like a tree) and stay still until the dog loses interest and goes away. Here is a video from Doggone Safe that demonstrates this concept:

Read this article by Joan Orr for a more detailed description of how to stand like a tree

Parents should never leave a dog unattended with a child under the age of 12 years old no matter how gentle your dog seems. A few months ago an infant was killed by the family golden retriever/lab mix. The child was left in a swing while the father fell asleep in another room. There are many stories like this every year and children left alone in baby swings is a common theme. Moreover, any breed is capable of harming a child. Do not assume that your nice family dog is not going to react to a child teasing him/her. As my story with the choo-choo train illustrates, toddlers and kids can do some pretty crazy things.

Respect a dog's boundaries. Teach children not to touch or poke dogs when they are sleeping, in a crate, eating or behind a fence. If you have resident dogs, you may want to create a "safe zone" where dogs can eat in peace and rest when things get really active around the house. Crate training is also a helpful tool. Dogs behind a barrier can get frustrated and dogs behind other people's fences can be territorial so teaching children not to bother dogs behind barriers is also important. Barriers include crates, gates, fences and the inside of a car. Riding a dog like a horse will provoke a dog to bite and can harm the dog physically.

It is important to teach children not to
bother dogs when they are sleeping. It is also important to
teach children not to put their face in a dog's face

Dogs can get defensive behind boundaries or areas where they sleep.
Instruct children to leave dogs alone when they are in these areas.
Note: Yawning can be a stress is a stress signal

For dog owners - many dogs are afraid of young children. As highlighted in my earlier post, most dog bites inflicted on people are on children and senior citizens. For this reason, early socialization and puppy classes are important for puppy owners. Many people think puppy socialization means socializing with other dogs. This is only one facet of a dog's social development. Socialization includes socialization with different people including children and senior citizens. Dog training classes also help build a dog's confidence and teach your dog some basic training skills and manners which will help your dog behave more acceptably in public.

If you have a dog that is afraid of children or certain people, follow the tips addressed in my previous article on how to greet a dog. This includes recognizing signs of stress in your dog, managing your dog's space, providing a safe place for your dog and working with a certified trainer who uses positive reinforcement-based approaches to address this type of behavior. With children, very strict supervision and management is required. Instruct guests and children how to interact with your dog and always supervise. If your dog is very stressed when children are at the house or if you are too busy or distracted to supervise, it is better to put your dog in a "safe place" until the children leave. Children and strangers should not hug or grab your dog, hover over your dog or rub the dog's belly because your dog may act defensively.

Fortunately, for me, my little blind poodle was very tolerant and was my best friend for many years until he died at the age of 17. Despite his early onset blindness, he could find his way around a two story house and hang out in the back yard with no problem. Does anyone else have any fond memories of their childhood dog?

Los Angeles Dog Training: www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Dog Bite Prevention

2014-05-19T02:30:00.000-07:00

This week is Dog Bite Prevention Week and here are a few tips to minimize the risk of dog bites:

Learn a dog's stress signals

In my last blog on Canine Body Language I go over some of the common postures and stress signals that dogs exhibit. Here are a few stress signals to be on the look out for: frequent yawning, licking lips, ears pulled back, pacing, panting. If your dog is stressed, do not force them to meet someone they are afraid of. In a similar vein, learn your dog's aggressive stances. This could include stiff body, very still body, ears forward, body leaning forward, hackles raised, tight/closed mouth, hard stare, curled lip, growling and snarling. Here is a video showing some common stress signals:

Respect these signals and remove your dog from the situation that is causing stress by increasing the distance. Don't worry about offending a stranger. Your dog's well-being is more important. If your dog is frequently afraid of strangers, work with a dog trainer or behaviorist to develop a behavior modification program to help your dog feel more at ease around strangers. It is important to choose a professional who focuses on positive reinforcement methods. If you meet someone else's dog exhibiting these signals when you approach them, stop and slowly back off to give the dog more space.

Appropriate Greetings and Interactions

Besides being able to read a dog's body language or stress signals, another factor that can reduce the incidence of dog bites is knowing how to greet a dog in a manner that will put the dog at ease. Here are a few tips:

1) Stop 5-6 feet in front of the dog. This is usually the distance that a dog is comfortable with and is also the length of most leashes if the dog is on a walk.

2)   Ask the owner if you can pet the dog. If the owner hesitates or says the dog is not always friendly, move on. If you are the owner and you notice that your dog is fearful or showing stress signals, ask the person to stop moving forward and refrain from reaching towards your dog.

3) Turn your side to the dog - dogs are often more comfortable when your side is facing them rather than facing them head on.   By turning your side to the dog, it makes them more comfortable to approach you.

4)Let the dog approach you - rather than going towards the dog and invading their space, let them approach you. If the dog does not want to approach you or shows you the stress signals mentioned above, then leave the dog be and do not try to pet the dog.

5) Pet the side of the body or neck - avoid blind spots like the top of the head. Fearful dogs do not like to be petted on top of the head and do not like people hovering over them. Here is a video showing the steps:

Sadly, small children under 9 years old are one of the most frequent recipients of dog bites. Children move faster than adults and toddlers move in a manner that seems erratic and odd to dogs. This video from Dr. Sophia Lin and illustrated by Lili Chin (the artist who did the doggie drawings on my website), really captures what a small child seems like from a dog's perspective:

This video highlights the importance of supervision and management when young children and dogs are in the same room or area. There is a tendency for young children to want to hug, kiss or grab dogs much like a stuffed animal and this runs the risk of a bite to the face. It is therefore important to teach children how to appropriately greet a dog.  Most dogs do not like to be hugged or kissed on the face and make it practice not to do this with your own dog. Be vigilant of stress signals and teach your child the appropriate way to approach and handle a dog

This dog is tolerating the hug but is shying away from close contact with the person's face. Notice the flattened ears and head tilting away from the person. Teach your children appropriate ways to interact with a dog that helps put the dog at ease.

Runners and Bicycles

If you have a dog that reacts to fast moving objects, be vigilant and aware of oncoming runners and cyclists. Make a point of teaching your dog to sit and stay so that you can step out of the path and give enough space to allow the person to go by. If you have a dog, that lunges and goes after runners or cyclists, consult with a trainer to help your dog learn to handle people and bicycles moving quickly by them. When I run or jog behind a person with a dog, I try to give them a heads up several seconds before I approach them to give them a chance to move out of the way and not surprise them.

These are a few tips to help you understand canine body language and how to approach a dog safely.

A Few New Year's Resolutions

2013-12-31T08:54:00.000-08:00

Happy New Year everyone! When it comes to New Year’s Resolutions we tend to focus on ourselves. But since this is a dog training blog, I am going to focus on our dogs. Here are a few resolutions based on my experiences with my own dogs and from helping my clients with theirs:

1) Incorporate dog training in my everyday routine – now that my “puppy” is full grown, it is very easy to let all that old puppy training fall by the wayside. So this year I will strive to reinforce my dogs’ training by continuing to incorporate them in my everyday routine. A few examples are:
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “wait” behind the door before going for a walk so that they learn not to dash into the street.
• Asking my dogs to “sit” before I put the leash on them for a walk so that they learn to be calm before going out for a walk.
• Asking my dog to “sit” before releasing her to “take” the toy for a game of tug of war or fetch.
• Asking my dogs to “sit” and “leave it” until I am able to put the food bowl down on the floor before giving them my release cue (“o.k”) to take the food.
• Asking my dogs to “go to their beds” and “stay” while I am eating my meals.

Incorporating these simple requests to your daily routine will seem less like a chore (for both you and your dog). In the end, you will have a well-mannered dog with relatively little effort.

2) Management – having a dog with good house manners is a combination of management and actual training. Often the management portion of this equation is overlooked. Keeping or removing food from the counter before leaving the house will reduce temptations for your dog and will help keep your dog from forming a habit of “counter-surfing.” Dogs will continue to perform behaviors that are successful for them and behaviors that do not reap any rewards gradually extinguish. So, if my dog is “rewarded” by getting a piece of food off that counter (even if relatively infrequent), there is no impetus for her to stop checking out the counter while I am out of the room. If my dog knows that food is not on that counter when I am not home, she is less likely to scavenge while I am out of sight. Management is also good way to keep your pup from destroying your favorite pair of leather shoes. Putting shoes away in your closet and closing the doors to your bedroom will prevent access into non-puppy proofed parts of the house when you are not home. Baby gates are also good management tools until your puppy passes the chewing phase and learns to chew the appropriate toys. If your puppy does not have access to shoes but instead has access to chew toys, you will protect your property. Who knew that having a puppy can lead to a clutter-free house.

3) Give my dog time to think - often we get impatient and we have a tendency to repeat the verbal cue over and over again thinking that it will make our dogs perform the behavior more quickly. If anything, it leads to your dog tuning you out. Instead, once your dog has learned the verbal cue for the behavior you are training, use the word once and give your dog time (10-15 seconds) to think about it. Repeating the cue while your dog is trying to figure out the behavior is the human equivalent of someone standing over your shoulder asking you, “what is 29x37” over and over again while you are trying to solve the equation. If your dog does not complete the task within that time frame, go back to the previous step in training (e.g. using a hand signal or lure with the verbal cue) and practice at that level until your dog becomes more proficient.

4) Exercise – regular exercise stimulates your dog not only physically but mentally. Your neighborhood is a smorgasbord of smells, sights and sounds that are different from what your dog experiences at home. A bored dog can be very destructive. When my dogs are bored, I often find little holes my backyard. Exercise can help channel some of that pent up energy. Similarly, exercise can help with high energy and anxious dog.

5) Play more games with my dogs – playing games with your dog not only stimulates your dog mentally but it helps foster the bond with your dog. Although some dogs can play fetch until the cows come home, other dogs will get bored of this game after awhile (Northern breeds come to mind). This year I plan to introduce more games into my dogs lives beyond fetch and tug of war (which my dog never seems to get tired of). My dogs like to hunt and they love the “find it” games where they have to search for different objects to receive a treat. I also use training as a game and try to teach new tricks or combine different behaviors in a row (chaining behaviors) before the dog receives a reward. Keep training sessions short (5 -10 minute sessions at a time) to maximize on the “fun factor.” For more information see my review of popular interactive dog toys on the market.

6) Give my dogs some down time – sometimes it is tempting to try to train your dog every day for long periods of time especially if you are working on modifying particular behavior. I have found that it is beneficial to give my dog some down time from such intensive training because I want my dog to look forward to training rather than view it as a stressful event. Taking a day or two break can give my dog time to recoup and lessen the likelihood of burnout (for me too). Dogs need alone time too.

7) Appreciate every moment with my dogs – dog years are too short as far as we are concerned. That is why we should appreciate the time we have with our pets while they are with us. I have two senior dogs right now and I appreciate the confidence and tolerance that many older dogs have. The comfort and security that our senior pets provide is reflection of the strong bond formed after years of working together. Without my older dogs, I am sure my Akita puppy would have been a handful, but my older dogs have kept some of her rowdy teenage behavior in check. There is something to be said about the wisdom and experience of an older dog.

8) Keep expectations realistic – there is a temptation to expect too much from our pets. We have a 6 month old puppy and we expect them not to chew on our favorite chair. We expect a kitten not to climb up our drapes. We have a 10 year old dog and we expect them to adapt to new and strange situations like a younger dog. We expect an independent breed like a husky or akita to want stick to your side at all times or want to perform repetitive tasks. We adopted a dog from the shelter a few weeks ago and we expect them not to be fearful or anxious. This New Year, let’s keep our expectations realistic based on our pet’s age, history, temperament and personality. Realistic expectations reduce frustration and forge a better bond with your pet!

9) Nip those behavioral problems in the bud - sometimes it is easy to ignore some of your dog's behavioral problems. For example, we let the dog jump on us because we think it is cute or affectionate but let it go on and one day your dog may knock someone over. Your dog may start guarding objects or food and let that go on and it can escalate to guarding entire locations of the house/couch or the behavior may become more pronounced. Sometimes, I get calls from people who have had a behavioral issue that has gone on for years. In such cases the behavior can become so ingrained that it is harder to treat. So, if there is a behavior that you find problematic or can foresee becoming problematic, get the help you need and address it before it escalates.

10) Go at your dog's own pace - this is a corollary to #8 above. Often when we are working with our dogs, whether it be a puppy or a dog with behavioral issues such as fear or aggression, we may have some arbitrary time table by which we have set some goal or want a problem "fixed." Sometimes our timetables do not match up with what our dog's is able to accomplish. Trying to push our dogs faster than what they can handle can backfire or lead to frustration on our parts. For example, if you have a fearful dog, bombarding the dog with the object he/she is afraid of (person, dog, garbage truck, motorcycle etc) over a short period of time may intensity this fear and cause the dog to shut down. Often with behavioral problems it may take weeks or months to resolve and pushing your dog above and beyond what he or she is capable of will only serve to increase stress levels. Instead, just go with the flow and appreciate the accomplishments your dog makes even if it seems like baby steps.

Do you have any New Year's resolutions for you and your pet?

Happy New Year and Happy Training!

Pawsitive Feedback Training
www.pawsitivefeedback.com

New Year's Eve Fireworks and other loud noises

2013-12-30T20:55:00.000-08:00

In many cities, New Year's eve is celebrated with setting off fireworks (and sometimes even guns). For the safety of your pet, keep your pet indoors on New Year's Eve.

If your pet is afraid of fireworks and other loud noises, follow this link to my earlier blog on how help your dog through the "noisier" holidays:

http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/06/4th-of-july-tips-for-fireworks-fearing.html.

Wishing everyone a Happy New Year!!!

Holiday Training Tips

2013-11-26T08:47:00.000-08:00

Holidays are full of excitement for our pets: houseguests, turkey, ham, gifts under the Christmas tree and other temptations. Here are a few tips to keep your pet safe and happy during the holidays.

1) Holiday Decorations, Christmas Trees and Candles – Holiday decorations are full of pretty shiny things and electric cords. However, some of these shiny things can be usafe for your pet. Avoid using tinsel and glass ornaments which can be torn off the tree, broken or, worse yet, eaten. If you have a puppy, use your management strategies such as pet gates, crates or exercise pens to prevent your puppy from getting into mischief when unattended. Make sure electric cords are tucked out of the way or otherwise inaccessible. Candles are another hazard, make sure they are out of reach of your pet (especially cats).

2) Holiday Treats – please remember that chocolates can be harmful to dogs so make sure that holiday chocolate is out of reach and in a safe place. Even the artificial sweetener, xylitol, has been found to be harmful to dogs.

3) Holiday Plants – plants are a popular gift or decoration during the holidays. For example, poinsettia plants are an irritant and cause vomiting so make sure holiday plants are out of your dog’s reach. If you are unsure if a plant is toxic, please visit the ASPCA poison control center at: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/

4) Guests – not everyone’s dog is a social butterfly. If your dog is shy or disturbed by having so many strangers around, make sure your dog has a safe room where he/she can rest and get some respite from all the excitement. Using management strategies like baby gates can also prevent your dog from running out the door if a guest accidentally forgets to shut the door. Conversely, not everyone is a "dog person" so giving your guests breathing room to socialize and eat can make the event more pleasant and stress-free. Training your dog to go to his/her bed or place is also handy if you want your dog to hang out in a particular spot when people are eating or hanging out. If your dog needs a little more training, using short-term management strategies like baby gates can help.

5) Food on the table - again, training your dog to station himself/herself on a mat or bed while people are eating is essential. Teaching your dog a good "leave it" cue can also help if you are vigilent. But the reality of the situation is that you are often too busy playing the host to worry about your dog and if your dog is not that trustworthy falling back on management strategies such as crates, baby gates, the back yard or another room are perfectly acceptable options.

6) New Year’s Eve – like 4th of July, New Year’s Eve can also involve fireworks (or in some areas people firing off guns). Please keep your pet inside to avoid mishaps. If your pet is afraid of loud noises, please see my 4th of July blog for tips for the noise phobic dog: http://pawsitivefeedback.blogspot.com/2010/06/4th-of-july-tips-for-fireworks-fearing.html

Wishing everyone a wonderful holiday

and a happy New Year!

4th of July Tips for your dog

2013-06-27T10:00:00.000-07:00

With 4th of July just around the corner, it is important to keep your pet safe and secure. Many dogs are afraid of fireworks. Here are some things to keep in mind to keep your pet safe and happy this holiday:

* Avoid keeping your pet in the yard. Fearful dogs will often try to dig, jump or climb their way out of the yard to escape the noise. Many dogs get lost and end up in the shelter this way.

*Make sure that your pet has proper ID in the event that he/she gets lost. Consider microchipping your dog.

*Avoid the temptation to take your dog to fireworks shows or outdoors. A fearful dog could bolt and get lost. Fearful dogs can also feel trapped and may lunge or bite people or other dogs around them. Play it safe, keep them at home.

*Keep your pets indoors and provide a secure place for your pet stay in. This can be a crate or a quiet, pet-proofed room in your home that does not receive as much outside noise. Dogs can try to chew their way out of an area when scared so make sure it is a secure area. Close your windows and front door to shut out outside noises.

*What if you have a new dog or puppy and this is their first 4th of July? Play with your dog. During those hours when fireworks happen (usually 9 p.m. to midnight here in Los Angeles), play games with your dog. Play fetch or tug of war. Give your dog a toy to play with or work on a Nina Ottosson interactive puzzle with your dog. Click here for examples. Interacting with you will keep your dog's mind off the noises outside and on the games you are playing with your dog. Here is an example of my dog working on Tug-a-Jug under my supervision. She is so preoccupied with working on this toy that outside noises are unlikely to distract her:

*Consider playing music or keep the T.V. on as background noise. There are music CDs that have been created specifically to calm dogs. Through a Dog's Ear is an example of a CD series.

*Alternative remedies: For mild cases, some dogs respond well to flower essences and homeopathic remedies. Bach's Rescue Remedy for pets is one of the older brands out there and can be found in most natural pet stores. For homeopathic remedies you can consult with a homeopathic veterinarian for suggestions and dosage instructions.

*Body Wraps: many people have had success with body wraps which in effect "swaddle" your dog. I often use this product with fearful or anxious dogs. In her book, "Help for Your Fearful Dog," Nicole Wilde discusses a variety of methods of doing this and the proper way of introducing your dog to a wrap. In addition, there is a body vest marketed under the brand names, "Anxiety Wrap" and "Thundershirt" designed to achieve the same result. However, you should first acclimate your dog to the vest before a storm or fireworks so your dog does not react negatively to wearing the vest.

*Another calming product is Dog Appeasing Pheromone that can be sprayed on your dog's bedding or used as a room atomizer. It is usually sold in pet stores under the brand name "Comfort Zone."

*For severe cases talk to your vet: for severe cases of anxiety or if your dog is at risk of injuring himself/herself, prescription medication may be necessary to keep your dog calm and safe. In such cases, it is best consult with your veterinarian before the holiday.

My old akita had mild to moderate anxiety to fireworks. I made sure that he was in a pet-proofed room with the T.V. on and the windows closed. Sometimes I distracted him with toys and games he liked to play. I also used a Thundershirt and distracted him with Nina Ottosson puzzles which seemed to help:

Los Angeles Dog Training: www.pawsitivefeedback.com
Recommended Reading:

Los Angeles Dog Trainer: http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Dog Bite Prevention - Can You Read Dog? A primer on dog body language and stress signals

2013-05-22T08:30:00.000-07:00

This week is National Dog Bite Prevention Week and I will be posting relevant articles throughout the week to address this very serious topic. Here are a few statistics from the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA) about dog bites:

4.7 million people in this country are bitten by dogs every year

children are by far the most common victims

800,000 Americans receive medical attention for dog bites each year

children are far more likely to be severely injured; approximately 400,000 receive medical attention every year

most dog bites affecting young children occur during everyday activities and while interacting with familiar dogs

senior citizens are the second most common dog bite victims.

So this week we will address dog bites from two perspectives, that of the owner of a dog (especially fearful, shy or aggressive dogs) and that of a parent, child or other person meeting an unfamiliar dog.

One of the most important things that dog owners and non-dog owners should learn and become familiar with is canine body language and stress signals. Many signals that dogs put out are very subtle to the human eye because they are so different from primate body language. Often dogs show us these signals to let us know that they are uncomfortable or stressed. Conflicts arise when we humans fail to recognize these signals or we misinterpret the message our dogs are trying to convey.

Here are a few common signals that are important to be on the look out for:

Lip Licking

This is a behavior dogs will often perform when they are under stress or unsure of what is happening around them. What distinguishes this behavior from a dog “licking his chops” is that it is more frequent and more like a tongue flick. It is a behavior that Turid Rugaas terms a "calming signal" (see book reference below). A "calming signal" is a behavior that dogs display to each other to prevent or reduce the risk of conflict. It is a way for a dog to try to defuse a situation and calm the other dog (or person) down or even to calm themselves down.

In the photo above, my male Akita just came into the house to find my dad’s dog sleeping on his bed and also blocking his path. He paced back forth several times in front of her licking his lips before he finally walked past my dad’s dog and found another place to sleep. My Akita is not very confident and tries to avoid conflict as much as possible so the lip licking not only shows his discomfort approaching the new house guest but also his attempt to walk by her in close quarters without triggering a reaction or make her feel threatened.

In the videos below, the dogs show this behavior in response to the camera being too close to them:

Head Turns
One of the more common signals a dog will emit is the head turn away from another dog or person. This is another behavior that Rugaas considers a "calming signal." I most often see this behavior when a dog is being approached by another dog or human and the dog is not quite comfortable with what is happening or when the dog is trying to show the other dog that he/she is not a threat. In the picture below, my shiba inu is not very comfortable with my dad’s dog and is turning her head away from her to avoid direct eye contact, which can be threatening to another dog.

The dog on the left is emitting a calming signal to avoid
confrontation with the dog on the right.

Another scenario where I see head turns is when a dog or puppy is being hugged or kissed by a human being and the dog is not comfortable with this show of affection. Hugging for a primate is a normal expression of affection but is not comfortable for most dogs. Often accompanying the head turn in this scenario are other calming signals such as lip licking or yawning (see below). This is probably one of the most common situations where humans fail to read the signs of the dog’s discomfort and if ignored can lead to a growl or dog bite to the face.

This dog is doing both a head turn and lip lick

In the picture above, my shiba inu is not comfortable with someone taking a picture so close to her when she is on her bed. She is displaying both a head turn and lip lick. When you see this behavior in this type of scenario, it is best to give your dog more space.

This dog is merely tolerating being hugged. Note the head tilted away from the person.
The ears are also tilting backwards.

The picture above shows my dog being hugged by someone he knows fairly well. You can tell he is straining to turn away from the person. While he is tolerating being hugged, he is not really enjoying it. He is a shy and somewhat fearful dog that I rescued as an adult. Therefore, this is a situation where I would tell guests not to hover directly over or hug this dog, especially young children. Even though this is a large dog, the same rules would apply to a small dog that shows the same behavior. In fact, I rarely grab dogs around the neck or kiss them on the face. I find that most dogs would rather be petted and given a little more breathing room, especially from strangers.

It is important to respect these signs and reduce your pet's stress and discomfort by not putting them in situations that make them uncomfortable. Working at a dog’s comfort level helps build a more trusting relationship. One way to do this is to approach an unsure dog by turning the side of your body to the dog. Hovering, hugging and direct eye contact can be intimidating to a dog and can provoke a dog to growl or bite. Most dogs are comfortable approaching a human when the person's side is facing them and the person's head is slightly turned away (a calming signal). This is especially true of fearful dogs.

This dog is more comfortable being held but then my face is also not close to hers and I am not hovering over her or trying to make direct eye contact. Note the relaxed expression and mouth.

Colleen Pelar who has written several excellent books on raising children with dogs has the following videos on her website demonstrating the stress and calming signals dogs exhibit when they are being hugged or kissed. When you watch these videos, try to identify the calming signals. The videos can be found at:

http://www.livingwithkidsanddogs.com/video/

Body Turns

Another "calming signal" is a body turn. Often when dogs approach each other one or both will turn their bodies rather than approach head on. If one dog approaches and the other turns away very deliberately, the dog is signalling that “I am not a threat.” It can also be a sign that the dog turning away does not feel comfortable or does not want to interact.

These two dogs do not know each other very well and are
cautious around each other. The dog on the left is blocking the other dog's path and the dog on the right turns her body and sniffs the ground
which is another calming signal this particular dog seems to do a lot.

Mitsu (dog on left) keeps her body and head turned away.

In the pictures above, the two dogs are showing a lot of calming signals. It is these signals which help maintain harmony and minimize altercations. In the days since these photos were taken the two dogs have become more comfortable with each other and there is less supervision required on my part. Fortunately, both dogs are surprisingly good at expressing calming signals and have made my job much easier.

Sometimes in class I see dogs doing body turns or head turns (usually accompanied by lip licks or yawns) away from their owners. Usually I will ask the owner to give the dog a break from training for a few minutes. The dog is not trying to ignore the owner or being obstinate, an example of when dog behavior is often misinterpreted, but rather the dog may be stressed or is uncomfortable with something that is happening around him.

The interesting thing about calming signals is that humans can reflect a calming signal back at a dog. For example, turning your own head or body from a dog that is exhibiting a calming signal (yawning, lip licking or head/body turns) can help put them at ease.

Yawning

Sometimes dogs will yawn for reasons other than fatigue. This is another behavior that Turid Rugaas terms a "calming signal." Yawning can occur when a dog is stressed or uncomfortable. Try yawning back at your dog when you see this behavior and see if your dog relaxes.

Sometimes when I point the camera at my dog, Kiku,
she will yawn in response because she is not quite comfortable with the camera. If she gets too uncomfortable, she will walk away (a scenario that some people incorrectly attribute to "stubbornness").

Relaxed Face

The pictures below show dogs who are relaxed and comfortable with what is happening around them. The mouth is relaxed, not tensed and the eyes are soft.

Relaxed mouth, relaxed face, ears in normal position

Relaxed mouth, soft expression, ears in normal position

Tense Face

In contrast, dogs who are on guard, nervous or uncomfortable usually have a tight, closed mouth or tense face. The look in the eyes may be hard or intense and the ears may point forward rather than be relaxed.

Closed, tight mouth, worried expression

Closed tight mouth, ears forward,
hard expression in the eyes

Mitsu guarding the avocado and giving a warning growl to another dog.
Notice the forward posture, stiff body, forward ears and tense face.

Shaking off

Often you will see dogs shaking their bodies in much the same way they shake off water after a bath. When I see this with my dogs, they are usually reacting to something unexpected or trying to dissipate some nervous energy or tension. The video below shows some examples of this behavior.

Play Bow

Most people recognize this move. It is an invitation to play and most dogs react positively when they see this posture.

Come play with me!

Sneezing

Some dogs sneeze multiple times when they are excited or stressed. My Shiba sneezes and prances excitedly when I come home and greet her.

These are a few of the many facial expressions and forms of body language that are expressed by dogs. In this blog I am focusing on some of the calming signals and other less obvious behaviors that dogs will also exhibit to humans. It is important to recognize these signs and identify what may be causing your dog discomfort or stress. Knowing these signals can also enhance your own interactions with your dog. To learn more about dog body language, the books below are a few good resources:

Next time we will review how to safely greet a dog.

Los Angeles Dog Training www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Caring for the Senior Pet and End-of-Life Issues

2013-03-26T09:09:00.002-07:00

About six weeks ago, my 16-year old Akita, Tomo, passed away. While his health and mobility had gradually deteriorated the prior 2-3 months and I knew 16 was ancient for such a large breed dog, I was still taken by surprise when I woke up to find him barely conscious. He passed away 20 minutes later. Dealing with an aging pet entails a whole set of issues that can sometimes be overwhelming both physically and emotionally. Moreover, when a pet dies at home, there are issues an owner needs to address that are normally taken care of by the staff at the veterinarian’s office. Based on my experiences during the last 6-8 months of Tomo’s life, this month’s blog will address the needs of aging pets and the end-of-life issues that every pet owner will likely face.

Health, Medical and Behavioral Issues

One of the harnesses I used to help Tomo stand up

Mobility Issues: Taking care of an aging pet can be challenging. They may have mobility issues from arthritis or illness and they may need special accommodations to help them get around. Arthritis and spinal degeneration may also manifest itself as incontinence or soiling in the house. If you have a large dog like my 90 pound Akita, you may have to physically lift your dog to help him get around. There are special mobility aids that assist both you and your dog including: special harnesses, steps, ramps or other lifting devices. See my article reviewing some common mobility aids.

Pain Management: An ill or arthritic pet may also be in pain. Signs that your pet may be in pain include: decreased appetite or changes in appetite, difficulty getting up, favoring a particular part of the body, decreased activity, excessive panting, hiding, being less sociable, agitation and whimpering or yelping. It is also not unusual for dogs to become aggressive and defend their personal space when they are in pain. It is important to speak with your veterinarian about pain management options to make sure that your pet is as comfortable as possible.

Dementia (Canine Cognitive Dysfunction): Aging dogs can also get dementia (termed Canine Cognitive Dysfunction or CCD) much in the same way that humans can. Often the signs are subtle and people mistake them for something else. Symptoms include: confusion or disorientation, getting “lost” inside the house, pacing (especially at night), barking for no apparent reason, failure to recognize family members, getting stuck in corners, increased anxiousness and eliminating inside the house. Keeping furniture in the same place can help with disorientation. Medication may be prescribed by your vet to lessen the severity of the symptoms. However, there is no cure for CCD.

Increased Anxiety: Many aging pets can experience increased anxiety or agitation whether it be from CCD, loss of hearing/sight or pain. Anxiety aids such as a Thundershirt or DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) can help calm a dog. My dog started exhibiting occasional bouts of separation anxiety and I used a Thundershirt in combination with ambient music to keep him calm. Many of these anti-anxiety aids are discussed in this article.

Incontinence: As mentioned above, your pet may become incontinent due to a physical disability or due to CCD. If an aging pet becomes incontinent, it is important to have your vet first rule out a medical problem such as diabetes, kidney disease, spay incontinence or bladder infection. Encouraging your dog to eliminate outside more times a day can help lessen the number of accidents in the house and in some cases your vet may prescribe medication to address this issue. In some cases, doggie diapers may be needed.

Deafness and Blindness: Many aging pets eventually become blind or lose their hearing. In the case of blindness, it is important not to move furniture around so that your dog will have an easier time navigating. For blind dogs you can make your presence known by shuffling your feet or calling your dog’s name to prevent your dog from getting startled (and perhaps reacting defensively). In my case, my dog starting going deaf so it was important for me to make sure he could see me before I used my hand signals to ask him to do something like sit, come, wait or lie down. In addition, I would clap my hands to get his attention because he seemed to be able to still hear higher pitch sounds. Inside the house, I would tap the floor or simply get up and stand in front of him to get his attention because deaf dogs can easily startle as well. Here are some resources for owners of deaf or blind dogs:

Deaf Dog Education Action Fund: http://www.deafdogs.org/training/

Blind Dogs.Net: http://www.blinddogs.net/

Reaction from other pets – It is not uncommon for other resident dogs to pick on an ill or aging housemate. It is important to keep a watchful eye on their interactions and intervene if you see bullying behavior. You may also need to set up management practices (separate feeding areas, crating, gating etc) to keep the senior dog from being harassed. In serious cases, contact a certified dog trainer or behaviorist to help you with this issue (see my article on selecting a dog trainer).

Euthanasia/Hospice Care

There may come a time when you need to assess the quality of your pet’s life. In my case, my dog had good days and bad days and I was constantly monitoring the number and severity of the bad days. Although in his case, I did not have to make this decision, I have had to make this decision with other pets and it is important to be aware the condition of your pet and whether it is getting progressively worse. Some of the issues I monitored were:

Appetite - amount of food eaten and whether meals were missed;

Pain - whether my pet was in chronic pain and how it was affecting day to day activities and mobility;

Interactions - is my pet interacting with members of the household (human or animal) or being withdrawn? What is the nature and quality of the interactions? Is my pet hiding or spending a lot of time alone?

It is best to discuss these issues with your veterinarian who, other than you, can assess the physical condition of your pet. Your veterinarian will be able to advise you on hospice care or whether euthanasia is the best option for your pet.

These services often take place at the veterinarian’s office but there are also mobile vets who can come to your home. This may be a less stressful option for you and your pet. In my case, since I had such a large dog who had mobility issues, I had the number of a local mobile vet on my refrigerator door in case I needed their services.

When your pet dies at Home

It is less common for a dog to pass away suddenly or unexpectedly at home. In my own experience, when a pet was euthanized, as had been the case for my previous pets, the veterinarian’s office took care of all the arrangements after the procedure and I did not have to worry about what to do with my pet. However, if your pet dies at home, you will have to make these decisions and contact the appropriate facility.

Pet Mortuaries and Crematoriums – you will need to find a local mortuary or crematorium that caters to pets. They will come and pick up your pet and deal with the remains based on your instructions. You essentially have two options: cremation or burial.

Burial - Many cities prohibit the burial of animals in a resident’s back yard. For example, in the City of Los Angeles, “no person shall bury an animal or fowl in the City except in an established cemetery.” Therefore, if you want to bury your pet, you must contact one of the pet cemeteries in the city. Burial at one of these facilities is the most expensive option. Here are 2 cemeteries in Los Angeles:

LA Pet Memorial Park - www.lapetcemetery.com

Pet Haven Cemetery - http://www.pethavencemeteryandcrematory.com/

Cremation: A less expensive option is cremation. In addition, cremation gives you more options as to how you would like to deal your pet’s remains. Most mortuaries or crematoria will do individual or mass cremations (the latter being less expensive). If you would like your pet’s ashes returned to you, then an individual cremation would be necessary. Often the ashes are placed in an urn or box and some companies provide a plaster cast of your dog’s footprint. Individual cremation is the option I chose for my pets. Here are two facilities that I have used:

Royal Pet Mortuary (Culver City) - http://petmortuary.com/

Guardian Animal Aftercare (Sun Valley) - http://www.guardianaftercare.com/

City Removal – many cities, including Los Angeles, will pick up your pet free of charge. However, your pet's remains will not be returned to you. Your city’s animal control department can provide more information. In Los Angeles, the Bureau of Sanitation (not Animal Services) provides this service.

Bureau of Sanitation: http://san.lacity.org/solid_resources/refuse/services/dead_animal.htm

Other Pets

The other pets in your home may experience varying levels of behavioral changes after the loss of your pet. Some pets may act withdrawn or reclusive, others may not react differently at all. One issue that I had to address since my dog passed away at home was whether the other animals should approach him after he passed away. It was an issue I never had considered before and a cursory search on the internet did not have a definitive answer. After discussing it with the mortuary (because they could not get to me for several hours), I decided to let my other pets approach Tomo if they chose to. My cat and Shiba Inu did approach him while my other Akita avoided the room he was in altogether and she appeared distressed prior to and after his death.

Although this is completely anecdotal, my Shiba and cat did not exhibit any significant behavioral changes. My Akita, who spent a lot of time playing with Tomo, became very reclusive and spent a lot of time sleeping in her crate. She did not want to interact with anyone the weeks following Tomo’s death. In addition, she did not want to spend any time in the yard. This lasted for about 2-3 weeks. In the meantime, I tried to maintain her regular walk schedule and arranged for play dates with my dad’s dog to keep her active and engaged. After a few weeks she started coming out of her shell and within the last few weeks she is almost back to normal. But every dog will be different and it is best to maintain your dog's usual routine and provide enough attention but at the same time not go overboard and force your dog to interact with you if he/she chooses to rest or sleep. Sometimes, people feel like they have to keep them occupied every minute of the day but sometimes our pets, like people, need time to themselves.

My other dog spent a lot of time in her crate after Tomo died.

Grieving

It is normal to grieve in the weeks and months following your pet’s death and you will likely go through a range of emotions from sadness to guilt and depression. Sometimes it is helpful to commemorate your pet in some special way, especially if you have children. In my case, I spread some of my dog’s ashes in a grotto at a favorite hiking trail.

A favorite place where we hung out

Fortunately, there are many resources available to help pet owners cope with their loss. Here are some resources that you may find helpful:

City of Los Angeles: http://animalcare.lacounty.gov/bereavement.asp

ASPCA Pet Loss Hotline: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/pet-loss/

Tufts Pet Loss Support Hotline: http://www.tufts.edu/vet/petloss/

Association for Pet Loss and Bereavement: http://aplb.org/index.php

Pet Loss.com : http://www.petloss.com/

Rainbows Bridge: http://rainbowsbridge.com/grief_support_center/grief_support_home.htm

Tomo in his much younger days
at a favorite hiking trail

Los Angeles Dog Trainer: http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

Leashes are Good

2012-12-12T09:59:00.001-08:00

There seems to be a growing trend for people to disregard leash laws and allow their dogs to walk off leash or roam their neighborhoods unattended. Several incidents happened this week which motivated me to write a blog about leash laws. First, several clients mentioned incidents with off-leash dogs in their neighborhood that could have ended tragically. Second, a friend who lives in West Hollywood forwarded me a notice from the city informing its residents that the City of West Hollywood will be strictly enforcing the Los Angeles County Leash laws due to the growing number of complaints the city has received. The City informed its residents:

In response [to the complaints], the City has asked the Department of Animal Care and Control to strictly enforce the City's ordinances requiring dogs to be kept on a leash in public, including in public parks (the Hart Off-Leash Dog Park exempted). Animal Control Officers have been deployed throughout the City and have issued a number of citations over the last week.

Walking your dog without a leash is a violation of Chapter 10.32 of the Los Angeles County Municipal Code, which is enforced in West Hollywood. Violators will be cited $250 for the first offense, $450 for the second offense, and $850 for the third.

While it may be a sign of pride that your dog can walk off-leash or it may be based on the notion, that the dog is happier off-leash, leash laws serve several very important functions which help protect both the public and the animals living within city limits.

First, leashes help keep the dog within the owner's control. The leash will prevent your dog from getting into an altercation with another dog. Even though you think your dog is friendly, the other dog may not be friendly or may be very fearful. In addition, your dog may not like every dog he/she encounters. Leashes help prevent serious injuries from such encounters.

Second, not every human likes dogs. There are some people who are very frightened of dogs and being confronted by an off-leash dog (even if friendly), can be traumatic. In addition, children can be knocked over by a large, enthusiastic dog. Keeping your dog on leash respects other people's space and possible discomfort towards your pet.

Third, many people are working with reactive and/or leash aggressive dogs. Running into an off-leash dog can not only trigger an aggressive encounter, but can also set that person's training backwards. Many of these dogs are fearful and having a predictable environment helps the dog overcome that fear. Running into off-leash dogs when outside the safety of that dog's home can reinforce aggressive and fearful behavior. Many of my clients who are working with their reactive dogs have had runs with off-leash dogs and it is unfortunate that these run-ins can have such a negative impact on someone's training program.

Fourth, your dog may not respond to your verbal cues 100% of the time and there is always a possibility that your dog will chase somebody's cat and do harm to that animal. In a similar vein, your dog may chase another animal into oncoming traffic and run the risk of being hit by a car.

For people who allow their dogs to roam the neighborhood unattended, the same arguments apply. Your dog may be hit by a car or may wander into someone else's property where there is a territorial resident dog. Not only are there penalties for free-roaming dogs but there are issues of liability if that dog harms another person or animal or damages someone else's property.

So while many people have idealized notions of walking their dog off-leash, this is not practical or safe for a busy and crowded city like Los Angeles. There are designated beaches and parks where dogs can safely be off-leash. Soon other cities in Los Angeles County may follow suit and begin to strictly enforce these laws.

Dog Days of Summer

2012-07-02T09:00:00.000-07:00

Summertime can be a fun time for you and your dog. You may be off from work and have more time to spend with your dog. Or, you may be planning a vacation with your pet Here are some summertime tips:

Hot Weather

Here in California, it tends to get hot in August and September. Keeping our pets cool is a high priority. Since I have double-coated breeds, they have a lot of fur and can easily get overheated. Some of the symptoms of overheating include: excessive panting, drooling, difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, weakness or collapse. More severe symptoms can include diarrhea, vomiting and seizures. To avoid overheating your dog, here are some tips:

1) Walk your dog early in the morning or early evening - besides the external temperature, the pavement can get hot in the middle of the day and can burn your dog's feet. Asphalt is even worse as the dark color absorbs more heat from the sun. I often get questions about why their dog stops in the middle of the walk and lies down on the grass. One of my first questions is "what time of day are you walking your dog?"

2) Do not leave your dog in the car - I know this seems obvious but every summer there are reports of dogs dying in locked cars. Cars, even with the windows cracked, can heat up very quickly on a hot day turning the inside of a car into an oven. It only takes minutes for the temperature to go up 20 degrees.

3) Bring plenty of water on hikes - make sure you have enough hydration for both you and your dog and give your dog frequent rest stops in the shade when he/she looks tired. Dogs have a lot of fur and only can cool themselves by panting and some limited sweating from the pads of their feet.

4) Wet your dog - if I am on a hike on a warm day, I will often drench the back of my dogs' neck and upper back with water to create evaporative cooling.

5) Keep your dogs indoors - if the inside of your house is cooler than outside, bring your dogs indoors to avoid heat stroke. If the heat outdoors is intolerable for you then your dog is likely to feel the same way (if not more so).

6) Avoid intense exercise during heat waves - when we have 90+ weather, avoid intense exercise. If your dog is elderly, overweight, has a medical condition (especially respiratory or cardiac) or very young, they are more vulnerable to the heat.

Remember, your dog has a heavy fur coat and can easily get overheated. Imagine how hot this guy feels on a hot summer day.

Going on the Road with your pet

Traveling with your pet can be a great experience and you don't have to worry about finding the boarding facility or pet sitter. Here are a few tips:

1) Identification and Microchipping - Make sure your dog has a secure collar with I.D. Dogs can panic in unfamiliar locations and bolt. Microchipping is also critical if you frequently travel with your pet. Lost dogs can lose their collars and most shelters and veterinarians have scanning equipment.

2) Water bowls – dogs can get dehydrated during the car ride so stop every few hours to check on their water bowls. Better yet, teach your dog to drink from a water bottle (like the type rabbits drink out of) that hooks on to the crate. I taught my older dogs to drink out of a water bottle by putting peanut butter on the nozzle. My puppy did not need any prompting.

3) Vet information – Take the number of your veterinarian as well as the phone numbers of vets in the area where you will be staying.

4) Copies of shot records – sometimes you run into a situation where you cannot find pet friendly accommodations or hotels where you cannot leave your pet unattended. In such cases you may need to put your dog in daycare if you are going to a function or will need to leave your pet for an extended period of time. Day cares require shot records so it is helpful to have them handy in case you need to board your dog. Make sure your dog is current on vaccinations especially rabies if you are going to wilderness areas.

5) Crate and Crate Cover – often I will bring extra blankets to cover the crates. Covering the crates can help quiet the dogs when they cannot settle down in a strange location. My dogs know that the blanket means they need to go to sleep.

6) Extra towels and brushes – in case your dog gets wet or dirty.

7) Flea, Tick and Heartworm Treatments– make sure your dogs are current with flea, tick and heartworm applications. Many mountainous areas and regions of the U.S. have ticks or mosquitoes that transmit heartworm. Do your research and protect your pet accordingly. Ask your veterinarian about the appropriate treatments to apply.

8) Finding Pet Friendly Accommodations – here are some of my favorite websites for finding pet-friendly accommodations:

http://www.bringfido.com/– nice search engine and photos of properties

http://www.dogfriendly.com/– this one has been around for a long time and has a good list of accommodations for hotels and restaurants.

http://www.vrbo.com/– provides list of vacation rentals if you would like to rent a home. Several dog friendly properties are available.

The Creepy Crawlies

Fleat, Tick and HeartwormTreatments: Summertime is also flea and tick season. Make sure that you are on top of treating your dog against these external parasites. Many areas also have mosquito-borne heartworm so check with your veterinarian about whether your area is at risk and, if so, the appropriate preventative to use.

Removing Ticks: Inspect your dog after hiking in tick-infested areas. Ticks like to perch on the end of grassblades and other plants waiting to hitch a ride on the next warm-blooded creature that brushes by them. If you have been hiking on narrow trails with a lot of brush, it is especially important to do a tick check. Here is a link to instructions and here is a pictorial version on how to remove ticks but if you are not comfortable doing this take your dog to your veterinarian. If your dog developes a rash after begin bitten by a tick, take your dog to the veterinarian as ticks can carry Lyme Disease. Often keeping the removed tick inside a sealed container or jar of alcohol is a good idea in case you need to take it to the veterinarianfor testing to rule out Lyme Disease.

Mosquitos - as mentioned before, mosquitos are vectors for many diseases. Make sure you don't have any standing water in your yard (even in the saucers underneath your potted plants) and if your area is particularly infested with mosquitos, bring your dog inside when they are active.

Hiking with Your Dog

We have many beautiful trails here in Southern California. If you take the appropriate precautions above, you can have a great time hanging out with your dog. Here are some good books on finding dog-friendly trails:

Los Angeles Dog Trainer: http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com

How to teach your cat (or dog) to sit

2012-06-19T08:47:00.000-07:00

Despite what most people believe, cats can be quite trainable. My cat is clicker-trained and has picked up on almost all the same behaviors that I have taught my dogs in my group classes. Since this is adopt-a-cat month, here is a link to the first how-to video on training your cat to sit on cue:

http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com/videos/catsit/trainingsit.swf

Los Angeles Dog Trainer: http://www.pawsitivefeedback.com