Performance DIY by DIY Guru

How Much Does It Cost to Get a Check Engine Light Diagnosed for Free vs Paying?

2026-09-25T08:59:04.866-07:00

A check engine light diagnosis can cost $0 at many auto-parts stores and repair shops, while a professional diagnostic scan at a mechanic typically costs around $50 to $150. However, a free code scan usually tells you what fault code was stored—not necessarily why the problem happened or what the repair will cost.

How much does a check engine light diagnosis cost?

The price depends on where you go and how deeply the vehicle needs to be tested. In most cases, you should start with the cheapest option: a free OBD-II code scan. If the code points to a problem that requires further testing, then paying a mechanic for a complete diagnosis may be worthwhile.

Here is how the options generally compare:

Diagnosis option	Typical cost	What you get
Auto-parts store scan	Free	Basic trouble codes
DIY OBD-II scanner	$20–$100+	Codes and basic live data
Independent mechanic	$50–$150	Professional diagnosis
Dealership	$100–$200+	Factory-level diagnostics
Complex electrical diagnosis	$150–$300+	Advanced testing and troubleshooting

Prices vary by location, vehicle, and the amount of diagnostic work required.

1. Start with a free check engine light scan

If your check engine light has appeared, the first step does not necessarily need to cost anything.

Many auto-parts retailers offer free OBD-II code scans as a customer service. A technician or employee connects a scanner to the vehicle's diagnostic port and retrieves stored trouble codes such as P0300, P0420, P0171, or P0455.

This is useful because you immediately get information about the system reporting the problem.

For example, a P0300 code generally indicates detected random or multiple-cylinder misfires, while a P0420 code relates to catalyst-system efficiency.

However, there is an important distinction:

A diagnostic trouble code is not automatically the failed part.

A P0420 code, for example, does not necessarily mean you should immediately replace the catalytic converter. Other problems, including exhaust leaks or sensor-related issues, can contribute to the code.

2. Use your own OBD-II scanner

If you frequently work on cars, buying an inexpensive OBD-II scanner can make more sense than repeatedly paying for scans.

Basic scanners can read and clear trouble codes, while more advanced models can display live sensor information, freeze-frame data, readiness monitors, and manufacturer-specific information.

A basic scanner may cost roughly $20–$50, while more capable diagnostic equipment can cost considerably more.

The biggest advantage is convenience. You can scan the vehicle whenever the check engine light comes on without visiting a shop.

Before clearing any codes, however, record them first. Clearing the code can erase useful diagnostic information and reset emissions-readiness monitors.

3. Pay a mechanic for a proper diagnosis

A free scan becomes less useful when the problem requires actual troubleshooting.

A professional mechanic may use a more advanced scan tool and combine the stored codes with:

Live sensor data
Freeze-frame information
Fuel-trim readings
Ignition testing
Vacuum testing
Electrical measurements
Smoke testing
Manufacturer-specific diagnostic procedures

A typical diagnostic fee at an independent repair shop may be around $50 to $150, although complicated problems can cost more.

This is where paying for diagnosis can save money. Instead of replacing parts based on a code, the mechanic attempts to establish the actual cause of the fault.

4. Dealership diagnosis can cost more

A dealership will often charge more for diagnostic work, with prices commonly reaching $100–$200 or more depending on the vehicle and problem.

The potential advantage is access to manufacturer-specific diagnostic equipment, technical service information, factory procedures, and technicians familiar with that particular brand.

For complicated electronic, communication-network, or manufacturer-specific problems, dealership-level diagnostics may sometimes be necessary.

Free scan vs paid diagnosis: what is the difference?

Think of a free scan as information gathering, while a paid diagnosis is problem solving.

A free scan might tell you:

“P0301 — Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected.”

A complete diagnosis attempts to determine why cylinder 1 is misfiring.

Possible causes could include a spark plug, ignition coil, injector, wiring problem, vacuum leak, compression issue, or another underlying fault.

That distinction is why replacing the part associated with a code is not always the correct repair.

When should you pay for diagnosis?

Pay for professional diagnosis when:

The check engine light keeps returning after a repair.
Multiple codes are present.
The vehicle has drivability problems.
The problem involves electrical or communication systems.
The free scan produces a code you cannot interpret.
You are considering an expensive part replacement.

The check engine light is accompanied by poor performance, stalling, overheating, or other serious symptoms.

If the light is flashing, treat it more seriously than a steady check engine light. A flashing light can indicate an active misfire that may cause catalytic-converter damage. Avoid continued driving and have the vehicle assessed promptly.

What should you do first?

For most vehicles, the logical sequence is:

Free scan → identify the code → research/interpret the code → inspect obvious causes → pay for professional diagnosis if necessary.

The free scan can therefore be an excellent first step, but it should not be confused with a complete diagnostic procedure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I get a check engine light diagnosed for free?

Often, yes. Some auto-parts retailers and repair businesses offer free OBD-II code scans. Availability and the exact service vary by location.

Is a free check engine scan accurate?

The scanner can accurately retrieve stored diagnostic trouble codes, but the code does not necessarily identify the failed component. Further testing may be required to determine the underlying cause.

Is paying $100 for a diagnostic worth it?

It can be, particularly when the problem is intermittent, involves multiple systems, or could otherwise lead to unnecessary parts replacement. A professional diagnosis is intended to identify the underlying fault rather than simply retrieve a trouble code.

Related Resources

For the next step, see How to Read a Check Engine Light Code to understand what your OBD-II code actually means.

Also see Common Check Engine Light Codes and Their Causes for a quick reference to frequently encountered diagnostic trouble codes.

Engine Oil Cooler Pros & Cons | Does Your car Really need an Engine Oil cooler Kit?

2025-08-15T06:40:00.000-07:00

Engine Oil Cooler: Pros, Cons & Best Universal Options

If you’re into high-performance cars or heavy-duty engines, you’ve probably heard about engine oil coolers. But do you really need one? In this guide, we’ll break down:

What an engine oil cooler does
Key pros and cons
Who actually needs one
Best universal engine oil cooler (with an exclusive deal!)

What Is an Engine Oil Cooler?

An engine oil cooler works like a mini radiator for your engine oil. It helps regulate oil temperature by dissipating excess heat, ensuring optimal lubrication and engine performance.

You’ll often see oil coolers in:
- Performance cars (track racing, turbocharged engines)
- Heavy-duty vehicles (towing, off-roading)
- Extreme climates (hot desert or freezing cold conditions)
But before you install one, let’s weigh the advantages and disadvantages.

Engine Oil Cooler: Pros and Cons:

Pros of an Oil Cooler:

Prevents Oil Breakdown – High temps degrade oil faster; a cooler keeps viscosity stable.
Extends Engine Life – Reduces wear on bearings, pistons, and turbochargers.
Improves Performance– Cooler oil = better lubrication under heavy load.
Lowers Engine Temp – Can reduce coolant temps by 10°F+, preventing overheating.

Cons of an Oil Cooler:

Overcooling Risk – If oil gets too cold, it thickens, reducing flow and efficiency.
Added Complexity – Requires proper installation (leak risks if done wrong).
Not Always Necessary – Stock engines rarely need extra cooling.

Do You Need an Engine Oil Cooler?

Who Should Get One?

Track/Racing Enthusiasts – High RPMs generate extreme heat.
Turbo/Supercharged Engines – Forced induction increases oil temps.
Towing/Off-Road Vehicles – Heavy loads strain the engine.

Who Can Skip It?

Daily Drivers – Most stock engines don’t overheat under normal use.
Cold Climate Drivers– Oil may struggle to reach optimal temp.

Pro Tip:Always check your oil temperature gauge before deciding. If your oil consistently exceeds 250°F+, a cooler might help.

Best Universal Engine Oil Cooler (Affiliate Promotion)

If you’ve decided an oil cooler is right for you, the Mishimoto Universal Oil Cooler Kit is our top pick.

Why We Recommend It:

✔ High-Efficiency Core – Keeps oil temps in check even under heavy load.
✔ Durable Steel-Braided Lines – Resists leaks and wear.
✔ Universal Fit – Works with most gasoline & diesel engines.
✔ Easy Installation – Comes with all necessary AN fittings.

🛒 Get 10% Off Mishimoto Oil Cooler Here (Exclusive Deal)

Final Verdict: Is an Oil Cooler Worth It?

If you’re pushing your engine hard, an oil cooler is a smart investment to prevent overheating and extend engine life. But for average drivers, it’s often unnecessary.
Got questions? Drop them in the comments! 🚗💨

📌 Key Takeaways:

- Oil coolers help high-performance & heavy-duty engines.
- Overcooling can be as bad as overheating.
- Check oil temps before installing one.
- Best universal option: Mishimoto Oil Cooler Kit (10% Off)
By optimizing oil temperature, you ensure smoother performance and a longer-lasting engine. Choose wisely! 🛠️

[20+] Mercedes F1 Wallpaper Collection | Mercedes F1 Wallpapers 4k 2025 | Mercedes F1 Wallpaper HD

2024-12-12T07:39:00.000-08:00

Mercedes Benz is not only the ace of luxury automobiles but it also holds a long standing tradition of dominating the F1 - Grand Prix. The Mercedes Petronas F1 Racing team has one the most elite and well equipped F1 cars on the track. What makes Mercedes Petronas F1 team even more formidable is their champion driver Lewis Hamilton. So to honor one of the greatest F1 racing teams, we have gathered a Mercedes F1 Wallpaper Collection for all you Mercedes F1 racing fans.

Mercedes F1 Wallpaper Collection 2025

Download Sausage man APK

What is the Largest Diesel Engine in the World ? Large Diesel Engine Cold Start | Biggest Diesel Engine Sound 2025

2024-12-12T07:38:00.000-08:00

Whenever the word 'Diesel' is uttered , big bulky black smoke blowing power houses come to mind. Since Diesel engines were invented, they are being used as to power heavy machinery, ships, trains, trucks and submarines. Diesel engines are favored in the heavy machinery industry because of their amazing low end torque and overall reliability.

We know Diesel Engines are supposed to be big, but have you ever wondered how big the largest diesel engine in the world is? If you have then we have got the answer to your question. We have covered the largest diesel engine in the world in the next paragraph, read , enjoy and don't forget to share.

What is the Largest Diesel Engine in the World ?

As of 2025 the worlds largest diesel engine is the Wärtsilä-Sulzer RTA96-C and this behemoth churns out an unmatched 109,000 Horsepower, yes you read it right!

The Wärtsilä-Sulzer RTA96-C is huge in all proportions, its curb weight is 2,300 Tons approx. It holds the title of the Biggest | Largest diesel engine in the world because this baby is 44 ft. Tall and 90 ft. in Length. Well since there aren't any other Huge Diesel Engines to compare it with we will just have to make do with 5 story building and even that would look small compared to the behemoth Wärtsilä-Sulzer RTA96-C. This huge diesel engine consists of 14 cylinders which are so big that each cylinder consumes around 7 ounces of Diesel Fuel with every stroke.

Emma Maersk is the loading ship which was first fitted with Wärtsilä-Sulzer RTA96-C in 2006 and since then this engine has been in service. The RTA96-C is perhaps also the largest turbocharged engine in the world.

Up till now only 25 Wärtsilä-Sulzer RTA96-C models have been produced and fitted on ocean liners. According to estimates, we will get to see almost a 100 more of these in the oceans by the year 2022.

How to Install a Ground Wiring Kit in your Car | Big 3 Update tutorial 2024

2024-01-09T02:24:00.002-08:00

Before we delve deeper into the tutorial. Let us look at the benefits of a ground wire or big 3 kit. Firstly, you shouldn't be expecting substantial horsepower gains. You can rather expect a smoother idling engine and an improved throttle response. Brighter headlights and cleaner audio has also been experienced by some diyers.

Some guys even claim that the ground wires prevent static shocks when getting out of the car.

Also, We checked the voltage differences beforehand at planned grounding points using a recently calibrated Fluke 87 multimeter.

Planning the Grounding Points

The DIY ground wire system we will make and install, dubbed the "Ill save money on mechanic bills," consists of 4 wires connecting 5 points.

Body (A) > Head (B) > Coil Pack (C) > Battery Negative (D) > Body (E)

You can choose your own ground points as well, but you will be on your own with that. Choose your grounding big 3 points wisely and at your own risk. In case you decide to choose your own ground points, get some string and measure those points. Measure with strings to figure out how exactly much wire is needed. Similarly different gauge wires can be used. Most aftermarket kits are 4-gauge.

For the "Ill save money on mechanic bills kit" you will need:

Preparing the Ground Wires for your Big 3 Update:

Cut the wires into the lengths needed.
Once You have finished cutting the wires , use a pair of wire strippers (or scissors) to strip about 1/2" off of the wire insulation to make way for the ring connector. Try not to cut the copper bit of the wires. If a few strands end up getting cut, it's okay. However, if half the strands are wasted, you will have to do it again. There should be enough slack in the wire for mess ups. To prevent fraying twist the wire strands into a rope. Repeat this step for the other side of the wire.
Once you have stripped off the insulation, slide on 2 pieces of heat-shrink on to the wires. The length of the heat-shrink should be sufficient to cover (and overlap) the crimp-able area of the ring connectors. With the heat-shrink out of the way, slide on the ring connector onto the wire firmly.
Using a pair of wire crimpers (or stripper/pliers), crimp the ring connector, and then follow through until the whole connector is crimped. Make sure that the 2 pieces of heat-shrink are still tight on the wire, and then repeat this step for the other side. Double-check the crimps for tightness. Refrain from pulling on the ring-connectors. Just make sure the crimps are tight by re-crimping them. Slide the heat-shrink onto the crimped area of the ring connector. Make sure the hole is not covered, and then use the lighter to activate the heat-shrink.Repeat steps 2 to 4 until for all four wires . Once all of them are done, you should have a kit.

With the kit made, onto the installation!

Ground Wiring Kit DIY Installation(wiring instructions)

To make things less complicated, the wires will be named:

Wire 1:

15" Body (A) to Head (B)

Wire 2:

22" Head (B) to Coil Pack (C)

Wire 3:

27" Coil Pack (C) to Battery Negative (D)

Wire 4 :

17" Battery Negative (D) to Body (E)

Ground Wiring Kit Installation Step by Step Tutorial:
Step 1:

Use the 10mm socket wrench to unbolt the nuts on your engines valve cover. Remove the valve cover completely.

Step 2:

We are ready for the installation of our Big 3 kit now.We will start from the left side of the engine.Simple unscrew the bolts on the bracket that holds the A/C line. Put one ring connector on Wire 1 through the bolt then screw it back in firmly.

Step 3:

The next step is to weave Wire 1 around enough to get to the bolt on the corner of the engine. Unscrew the corner bolt of the engine. Put the end of Wire 1 and the beginning of Wire 2 through the bolt. Screw the corner bolt back in.

Step 4:

Weave Wire 2 through the wiring loom and s unscrew the last coil bolt putting the end of the Wire 2 and the beginning of Wire 3 together. Screw the coil bolt back on.

Step 5:

Weave Wire 3 again through the wiring loom and intake. Unscrew the negative terminal lead on the battery. NOTE:Try not to take the lead off completely as it may reset your cars ECU, clock, radio, etc. Put the end of Wire 3 and the start of Wire 4 onto the negative lead's bolt and screw it back on.

Step 6:

Unscrew the bolt on the throttle cable bracket located on the body. The end of Wire 4 should be placed as close as possible to the body. Put the bracket back on, then screw it in.

Step 7:

The installation is almost complete. Double-check all the bolts and make sure they are firmly screwed in.Also refrain from over-tightening.

Step 8:

Once you have doublle-checked all of the bolts, put the valve cover back on. Start the car, and pray it doesn't throw a "Check Engine" light. Just-kidding, as long as you follow these steps, you'll be fine.

Engine Cold Start Problems | How to start a Car in Cold Weather? | Engine Cold Start Guide 2024

2024-01-09T02:24:00.001-08:00

Cold weather is hard on almost everything, and the engine in your car is no exception to this rule. The most common problem with why your car will not start in cold weather is that batteries literally freeze up, causing the electrical charge in them to do the same. There is also air/fuel ratios that need to be addressed here. It takes more fuel to ignite cold air than it takes to ignite warm air. Then there is just the plain fact that the fluids in the engine can be frozen, seizing it from the inside. We are going address each of these situations and find out what can be done to prevent them from happening.

Engine Cold Start Problems caused due to Battery:

Lets discuss the battery first, battery acid loses its ability to hold charge when subjected to below freezing temperatures. Sometimes it discharges completely, in which case you will require a jump start. Also remember that when the charge drops below 10 volts it may cause permanent damage to your cars battery. This can be easily prevented by insulating the battery . If you are willing to spend money then invest in a 750 CCA (cold cranking amp). Diesel engine cold start problems can especially be averted with this solution.

Engine Cold Start Problems caused due to Air Intakes/Carburetors:

Older engines with carburetors had what is called a ‘choke’. The choke is designed to decrease the amount of air going into the engine, while cold, and gradually let more in as the engine warmed up. Today the choke has been replaced with sensors and a computer. Faulty temperature measuring sensors on your car will almost certainly cause cold weather starting problems. The Intake Air Temperature and Coolant Temperature Sensor are responsible for providing this information to the computer. Vacuum leaks may also cause too much air to enter the engine, to ignite the cold fuel mixture. Vacuum leaks are worse because they actually let unmeasured air into the engine which will eventually damage major components in your engine. One can stay on top of these problems if the engine check light is never ignored when it comes on.

Engine Cold Start Problems caused due to Freezing Fluids:

The likeliness of freezing all of the fluids is relatively low. However it can happen and is very possible. Try parking your vehicle in a garage, or installing oil, and coolant warmers on the engine. Oil warmers go on the oil pan, and coolant warmers (more often called block warmers), go into the engine block into a hole of one of the freeze plugs. You plug these warmers into a normal house electrical outlet and they warm your engine up after a few minutes usually. It is best to have them plugged in and working so that nothing is allowed to freeze up inside the engine anyways. This is because when fluids freeze they expand, and this expansion can actually crack the entire engine block, instantly rendering it useless. Another thing to keep in mind about freezing fluids is that brake fluids absorb water, and if your brake fluid has done this, then it can freeze in the lines causing you to not have any brakes!
That is it folks try to take this knowledge prevent engine cold start problems in the future.

How to Reset ECU and Throttle Body Like a Pro at Home in 2024

2024-01-09T02:24:00.000-08:00

A lot of people love work on their cars and upgrade parts. But what many people don't know is that it is essential to reset the ecu as well as the throttle body in order to gain maximum performance output.

Why Should i Reset My Car's ECU? ECU Reset Benefits :

Very few people are aware of the fact that when you reset your ecu after small bolt on mods the car learns the new driving conditions and performs better, so here's a little DIY guide about manually resetting your ecu and throttle in 2022.

Step by Step Ecu and Throttle Reset Procedure Manual :

First what you need to do is to disconnect the negative lead from the battery for a minimum of 45 minutes. Some experts recommend this period to be around 12 hours but that is not really necessary.
After 45 minutes have passed, you can go ahead and reconnect the battery negative lead.
The next step is to get in the car and put ignition key in, turn to MAR and leave for 90 secs.
Next, turn off the ignition, but make sure that you do not remove the key. Leave for around 90 seconds.
After you have waited for 90 seconds go ahead and start the engine. But do not touch the throttle and let the car idle for 15 mins otherwise the car will not rev freely afterwards.
You will have to turn the car off again and leave it for 10 another minutes.
Well well my little DIY maestro you have done it. You can now start the car and take her for a spin.

Read More :
Automatic Side Step Installation Guide

ECU Reset Guide : How to Reset ECU without scanner

2022-12-18T22:34:00.001-08:00

Why Should i Reset My Car's ECU? ECU Reset Benefits :

Reset ECU | Throttle Manually without scanner :

A lot of car owners hesitate whilst resetting their ecu by themselves thinking that it would require specialized equipment i.e obd i/ii scanner. But contrary to popular belief, you can actually Reset your ECU and throttle body at home manually without needing any specialized equipment. Just follow the step by step procedure described below :

First what you need to do is to disconnect the negative lead from the battery for a minimum of 45 minutes. Some experts recommend this period to be around 12 hours but that is not really necessary.
After 45 minutes have passed, you can go ahead and reconnect the battery negative lead.
The next step is to get in the car and put ignition key in, turn to MAR and leave for 90 secs.
Next, turn off the ignition, but make sure that you do not remove the key. Leave for around 90 seconds.
After you have waited for 90 seconds go ahead and start the engine. But do not touch the throttle and let the car idle for 15 mins otherwise the car will not rev freely afterwards.
You will have to turn the car off again and leave it for 10 another minutes.
Well well my little DIY maestro you have done it. You can now start the car and take her for a spin.

What is Chassis Reinforcement ?| DIY Chassis Reinforcement | Chassis Stiffening Techniques 2022

2022-09-28T11:23:00.000-07:00

What is Chassis Reinforcement ?

Japanese tuning companies used to stiffen the chassis of their circuit/ race cars through this technique.

DIY Chassis Reinforcement

First is the list of things you'll need.

1: Drill ( i prefer an electric with a cord other then one with a battery just to i don't need to worry about it dying on me)

2: Ball-pen hammer (or any other hammer with a metal head)

3: Center-punch (to mark a good start point for the drill)

4: Drill bits ( i prefer a cobalt (the material of the bit not the lowes brand) drill bit because they last longer don't go cheap on this one or you'll know it

5: Rivet gun (blind rivet fastener rivet tool..etc)

6: Appropriate size rivet *** SEE NOTE *** ( i used short 3/16ths (#6) size they make steel and aluminum and some others i chose aluminum because its lighter)

after your interior is out the first thing to do is find the spot wields in the chassis

use a center punch and a hammer to make a duvet between them..

drill a hole that is the same size diameter as the rivet you are using (keep in mind what could possibly be behind the metal like suspension, tires, etc don't drill into anything you need)

place the rivet inside the hole.. it should be a little snug

then use the rivet gun to expand the rivet until the end breaks off..(be careful as sometimes the end will shoot out of the back of the gun (not often but it can happen)

make sure that you press the head of the rivet flush against the metal

once the end breaks off you're done and ready to repeat until you are satisfied... also should mention that you should use a rivet slightly longer then the thickness of the metals you are joining together ( i used ones with a 1/4 inch grip length on all of mine because i don't think its important enough to measure each hole

what it should look like when finished (well kinda my bit isn't sharp enough to drill any more holes lol )

*** NOTE***

good point i should've mentioned this ONLY USE CHERRY MAX/ CHERRY LOCK RIVETS the other ones don't really do anything but hold things together.. they are hollow in the center when you are done with them and are not for anything structural

for sake of time and his post the rivets i used were pop rivets.. here is a comparison of the right (cherry max) rivet and the wrong (pop) rivet to use

the cherry max is the rivet on the left and correct one to use... don't use one like the one on the right

What does Alignment Mean?| Learn How to do a Wheel Alignment at Home in 2022| DIY Wheel Alignment Balancing

2022-09-28T11:22:00.000-07:00

Getting car wheels aligned seems like a real pain from both time and money standpoint. This is why, most of the car owners think of wheel alignment as a rocket science and keep on paying hefty amounts of money to professional shops and work stations. However things are not as complicated as they seem.

DIY Wheel Alignment

If not a perfect alternative against going for traditional wheel alignment checks at repair stores; at least knowing how to DIY, can add a lot of value to your routine drives and help you keep a check on the quality of the work delivered by the technicians. From the concept and logical perspective, alignment is a pretty simple and straight-forward process, which can definitely be turned into an expertise with timely practice.

The part that tests your patience, the most, is that of setting up your alignment structure to get precisely consistent accuracy. Finding a perfectly flat surface to work from is also very critical. However these things get a lot easy if you plan to set it all up in your own garage or shop.

Aspects such as measuring and adjusting bump-steer, scaling and corner-weighting in order to enhance the performance of your car may cost a bit more than a regular wheel alignment setup. So, if you don't mind shelling out a little more, you could as well go for a proper hi-tech setup and get more control over your car's health and performance.

Alignment of wheels not only helps improve the vehicle's performance over the streets, but also helps reduce accidental risks and enhances the lifespan of tyres.

Here's a quick guide for how to do wheel alignment on a car and become an alignment-pro in no time.

Terms:

Before undertaking an actual alignment in hands, it makes a lot of sense to have basic information of some key terms associated with the wheel alignment process.

Toe:

Just as a pigeon-toe acts as a fulcrum and helps the pigeon get more flexibility and shock absorption features; car's wheels also rest on toes that have two main sub-components, Camber and Caster.

Camber:

The vertical toe-in. If it points slightly inwards from the top to bottom, it is called 'negative' camber and if it points slightly outwards, it is considered 'positive' camber. Positive or negative camber adjustments help in fine-tuning wheel movements as per driver's expectations.

Caster:

The angle on which the wheel pivots, when handled with the camber. 'Positive' caster facilitates wheels in being centered in orientation during the drives.

Adjusting camber and caster with basic tools in your garage might not be an easy thing to do. Hence, taking assistance from the repair shops is a better choice here.

However, most frequently needed alignments are to do with the toe, which can easily be managed with the basic tool-kits having jacks, open-end wrenches, measuring tape and pocket knife.

Toe Alignment Figures

Getting the right numbers in hand, in order to address the toe alignment is very important. This numeric data is easily available at some library of motor manuals or popular repair guides. Since these measurements are car-specific, there is no universally applicable combination towards getting the best result. Reaching out to an official factory workshops is also another option, if you don't mind getting extra-technical and spending a little more. Toe alignment settings are often expressed in inches, millimeters or angular minutes. Based on these figures, you can get a clear picture of what to aim at during the alignment process.

Health analysis

Before starting the alignment process, you must make sure that the front wheel components are in good condition. After jacking the front wheels over the jack stand, check the following:

Wheel bearings are properly placed
Ball joints are healthy enough
Steering gear box is in place

If there is no feeling of looseness in the wheels, both vertically and horizontally, they are good to go for the actual alignment process.

How to do Wheel Alignment at Home ? Follow the Process Given Below Step by Step:

Once all the other prerequisites are sorted out, take the following 5 steps:

Step 1

Spin each tyre and mark a line along the center of the tread with a pocketknife. If the circumference is all covered with tread block, make a support for the marking device in order to avoid the undesired jumping effect.

Step 2

Set the car on ground and push a few times on each fender to move the suspension and allow the car to rest on its springs.

Step 3

Free the steering wheel and move the car forward by 10 feet or so, letting the steering wheel go on its own.

Step 4

With the help from a friend, measure the length between the lines in the front of the tyres, at points in line with the spindles. Then measure the distance between the lines on the backs of tyres for the same height. The difference in the two measurements is called toe-in or toe-out. Smaller number in front indicates toe-in and larger indicates toe-out.

Step 5

Release the lock nuts on the tie-rod ends, next to both spindles and adjust it equally on each side to keep the steering wheel centered.

Finally, after you lock it all down, you may repeat this process to get double sure of the adjustments made in the car wheel

Learn How to Strip your Cars Paint at Home | Car Body Restoration DIY

2022-09-28T11:15:00.002-07:00

For most die hard car enthusiasts, when they build a car they want to do each and every job themselves so they can be one with their beloved machine. And the first thing most restorers are faced with is the body work of the car. Although taking on the body work of a project car yourself seems kind of daunting, but rest assured its possible given that you educate yourself a little beforehand.

The first thing one needs to do to get cracking on with straightening out the body work is paint stripping. This step by step tutorial will teach how to effectively strip your cars paintwork at home in 2023 !

Step 1: Preparing your Garage to Strip Paint:

Lay a tarp out in your garage. Drive your car onto the tarp. This will catch any chemical spills and make your cleanup easier.

Step 2: Masking:

Tape off areas of the car that don't need chemical stripping, using masking tape and newspaper. Cover the windshield, windows, tires, fender and other areas in this manner.

Step 3: Applying Chemical Paint Stripper:

Apply a coat of chemical stripper to your car. using a paintbrush. Pour chemical stripper into a disposable container such as an old coffee can. Coat the car's body with the chemical stripper. Wait the recommended amount of time for your chemical stripper to work, following the manufacturer's recommendation.

Step 4: Removing the Chemical Stripper:

Scrape the chemical stripper and old paint off your car with a plastic scraper at the end of the waiting time. Drag the plastic scraper across your car, with your hand held at a 45- to 70-degree angle to the car. The paint and chemical stripper should flake off.

Step 5: Sanding Off Remaining bits of Paint:

Scrub any areas that still have paint with 40-grit sandpaper. This should remove leftover paint.

Step 6: Appyling Lacquer Thinner to remove Stripper Residue:

Apply a coat of lacquer thinner to remove any traces of chemical stripper, using a fresh paintbrush. Remove the masking tape. Your car is ready for sanding and priming.

via: crazyoctopus@flickr

What is Car Weight Reduction ? Performance Gain Expectations | Car Weight Reduction Tips

2022-09-21T11:28:00.000-07:00

Performance car enthusiasts and street racers alike , every one is all about getting that extra bit of performance gains to out do their competitors at the track.

Car Weight Reduction is one such way which racers use to make their cars faster. This article will take you through what Car weight reduction actually is , how to do it properly and what kind of performance gains can you expect after reducing the weight of your car.

What is Car Weight Reduction ?

Car weight reduction is simply the removal of excess weight from your car to improve the power to weight ratio. It can be simply explained like this "the lesser the amount of weight your engine has to pull, the faster it will be". Not only does weight reduction improve acceleration it also makes the handling more nimble.

Car Weight Reduction Stages:

To be honest there are no defined weight reduction stages but we can scale them from amateur to professional level weight reduction.

The most basic car weight reduction techniques that street racers use is the removal of the spare tire , spare seats, carpets , tire changing kit and interior trim. I wouldn't say that it is safe but it does make a small difference.

source: Youtube

For those who are racing on a more professional level weight reduction techniques are different. Apart from removal of the interior trim , performance experts replace the cars removable body parts(door, bonnet , trunk lid, fenders) with either fiber glass or carbon fiber panels. with such a weight reduction job it is imperative that one uses a lightweight roll cage for safety.

source: Youtube

Performance Gain Expectations:

The gains you will get from weight reduction depends upon the extent to which you have reduced weight. For example if someone removes the basic extra parts mentioned earlier , they would be able to feel a very slight difference in acceleration , although handling improvements would be much more evident.

For the ladies/gentlemen opting for a full fiber body weight reduction can expect significant acceleration gains. Professional level car weight reduction jobs also improve the cars ability to take on corners at high speeds and reduce body roll as well as under steer.

Car Weight Reduction Tips:

If you are on your way to reducing your cars weight make sure you read through these tips:

Replace seats with light weight racing seats.
Replace Rims with Light Weight Alloy Rims.
If you love DIY jobs then get your hands on some fiberglass materials, you can easily learn how to cast your own body panels in fiber glass from youtube. If you can make your own fiber panels not only will you save a ton of money but you will also experience significant performance gains.or you can buy pre made fiber panels from amazon
Example :
Removing interior Trim, Seatbelts and rails.
Replace Window Glasses with Poly Urethane sheets.

Learn How to Check the O2 Sensor| Toyota Corolla O2 Sensor Diagnosis

2022-09-21T11:21:00.000-07:00

O2 Sensor Checkup Tutorial:

Turn off your engine
Locate your diagnostic connector, and look for terminal “OX1″ and “E1″
Get an analog multi meter (any brand can do)
Select the 2.5V DC range.
Insert the red color probe to “OX1″, and black colour probe to “E1″
Place the multi-meter on the windscreen, as near to the driver side as possible
Start your engine.
Wait till the engine reaches working temperature.
Keep your RPM stable at 2500 RPM.
10) Observe you multi meter’s needle. It should be moving up and down, from 0 to 2/5 of full scale.
Time your watch, a good O2 sensor will move the needle up and down for at least 8 times every 10 seconds.

If your needle move less than 8 times per 10 sec, or idle at any scale, your O2 sensor is dead. Change it asap..

12a Rotary Vacuum Schematic

2022-09-21T11:16:00.000-07:00

12a Rotary Vacuum Schematic

Coilover Adjustment DIY 2022| Learn How to Adjust your Car's Coilovers

2022-09-21T11:15:00.000-07:00

There is hardly anything more exciting in this world than lowering your car. The feel, the drive, the looks you get ...everything about a lowered car is utter bliss. But the main problem most car owners/tuners face is that they don't know how to lower the coilovers on their cars and they end up spending precious money on getting their cars lowered. If you are one of those gentlemen who is sick of going to a garage every time the ride height of your car needs to be adjusted , then this tutorial is just for you. This article will help you learn how you can lower your car's coilovers at home for free.

How to Lower Your Car's Coilovers at Home (Step by Step Tutorial)

Okay so i assume you came here looking for a tutorial on how to lower your cars height by adjusting the coilovers. Let's start, first off lets note down the things you will need:

A well lit area.
Spanner Wrench (Ring sizes vary on different coilover brands).
A measuring tape.
And your car that's equipped with coilovers ofcourse!

Before you start it should be noted that for lower priced coilover brands such as JIC SF1 or Buddy Club etc. the springs should be raised to their maximum height. This is important to ensure that the coilovers are lowered equally. Usually what happens is that the coilovers get compressed and preloaded incorrectly if not raised to maximum height in the start. Coilover Rings are made of Aluminum so you don't have to worry too much about them getting scratched with your spanner wrenches.However it is advised that you exercise caution as incorrect adjustment may damage your rings.

The first thing you will have to do is measure the height of your springs. When i measured my springs they came out to be 7 & 7/8th" in height.
If your springs have been tinkered with previously then you will need to expand them. Its usually quite easy to spot. To correctly expand the spring, first loosen the top ring to lower it until it is loose. Then tighten it slightly. I observed that keeping the springs to around a 7.75" height keeps them taut but does not preload them.
Please note that your coilover will be adjusted by raising/lowering the threaded pipe and not the springs. Proceed to unlock the steel perch (bottom part of damper that threaded pipe goes in to) by loosening the 3rd/bottom ring and raise it up. The adjustment will be made by turning the two locked rings under the spring. Since there is no preload, it should turn very easily and your rings won't get scratched.
DIY GURU Tip: You can double stack the wrenches which gives you more torque to adjust height.
My coilovers were adjusted to a total of 10" on the passenger side and 10.25" on the driver side. I weigh 90 kg and there is a 1/4" drop with me sitting in the car. These measurements will give you a floor to fender lip height of 26" which is optimum for street use (25" is recommended for track).You will need to measure from the top of the spring (under pillow-ball mount) to the top of the female perch.(Note: Different brands may have different measurements. This DIY was performed using Buddy Club Racing Spec but these are good numbers to start with.)
You will need to keep your composure as it may take some time if you are doing it by yourself. A you will need to adjust every corner several times. Remember to lock the rings and torque the lug nuts properly.

Tip: Get someone to help you measure your car's ride height with you sitting inside it as it may prove a bit tedious if done alone.

Conclusion:

Tada !!! You have successfully learned to adjust you car's coilovers by yourself. If you like our content please subscribe to our social media channels to stay updated with the latest content.

Related Searches: Coilover Installation DIY, How to lower coilovers, Suspension DIY, how to adjust coilovers, howhow to adjust coilover preload,how to adjust coilover dampening, coilovers before and after

Toyota Supra Wallpaper Collection 2022 | [20+] HD Toyota Supra Wallpapers

2022-09-21T11:12:00.001-07:00

Toyota Supra Wallpapers for Desktop and Mobile:

If you are fan of tuner cars then there is a high chance that you have wanted to own a Toyota Supra at least once in your life. Sadly, for most of us it is just but a dream! , but does it mean we stop celebrating the pure fire breathing prowess of the mighty Toyota Supra ?

The answer is a simple NO ! Us car tuning/modification enthusiasts celebrate the amazing Supra with stunning hd wallpapers for our phones and desktop screens.This post features some of the best hd toyota supra wallpapers available for your phone and desktop.

Toyota Supra Wallpapers for Iphone:

Toyota Supra 2023 4k Wallpapers :

Toyota Supra MK4 HD Wallpapers :

Toyota Supra Images HD 2023

DIY Truck Steps 2023: Automatic Side Step Installation Tutorial on Ford F-250 Super Duty Crew Cab

2022-09-21T11:11:00.002-07:00

What are Side Steps | Nerf Bars | Truck Steps ?

Many Truck owners are familiar with the concept of Side Steps aka Nerf Bars, but some new off-road truck enthusiasts might not be familiar with the utility that Nerf Bars | Side Steps offer. Side steps or Nerf Bars are steps mounted to the side of lifted trucks to offer ease in getting in and out of the truck. There are two types of Nerf Bars | Side Steps , fixed ones and automatic ones.

Fixed ones are cool and all but if you own a nice lifted truck you will want to go with Automatic Side Steps. And its even cooler when you install them yourself. This DIY tutorial will teach you how to install automatic side steps at home.

Automatic Side Step Installation Tutorial on Ford F-250 Super Duty Crew Cab

We went and got our hands on AMP Power Step . All the mentioned components fit very well to the stock mounting points, the wiring harness was the right size for the crew cab, and the kit included some nice details such as butt connectors, cable ties and connecting wires.

The operation of the steps is just cool. When you open any door, the step on that side deploys very quickly so you don’t miss a step getting in. When the doors are closed and the steps are up you cannot see them, unless you happen to be two feet tall.

The Power Step costs about $1,200, and you can save yourself a couple of hundred dollars by installing it yourself. When ordering the kit, be sure to pursue any information available on AMP’s website about your specific truck model. You can download the installation guide and scroll down until you get to the wiring guide. Find the page that is specific to your truck and look for any additional kits required. In our case we needed some single diodes.

Here’s how we got the install done on a 2001 Ford F-250 Super Duty Crew Cab using a basic tool kit in our home garage:

We started by attaching the motors to the rear linkage assemblies. A gear cover/gasket is situated between the motor and linkage and held together with 3 hex-head bolts.

The second set of holes can be located from the front in the inside wall of the body exterior on the passenger side of the truck.You might have to get your head under the frame rail and look up and toward the outside of the vehicle.

The stock U-nuts from the old side steps were replaced the supplied U-nuts to hold the hex bolts in the top holes. With the hex bolts in place, the slotted openings were positioned in the idler linkage and aligned with the bottom holes with the holes in the truck body.

The button-head bolts and stainless steel washers are supposed to go through the outside of the pinch weld and into the threaded holes of the assembly.

With the idler (motor-less front) assembly in place, fold it back to make sure it clears the

Banks TransCommand, which is mounted near the out side of the frame rail.

The whole process repeated for the rear assembly in the set of holes closest to the rear tire and moved across to the driver’s side.

The supplied zip ties were used to attach the control box inside the engine bay, the harness was connected to the controller.

The next step was to open the inline fuse holder and remove the fuse.

The terminal ends weren’t large enough so they had to be drilled out. You may use a large pair of Channel locks, as they work well to clamp the end to a block of wood for safe drilling.

Then the ends were connected to the clamp bolts on the battery terminals.

The short leg of the harness was threaded out of the engine bay between the firewall and the fender well on the passenger side, and the long leg is threaded across the top of the firewall and then between the firewall and the fender well on the driver side.

The step plate inside each door was removed and the carpet was rolled back.

The floor grommet was punctured and the purple trigger wire was pulled from each side of the harness up through the floor on each side of the truck.

The door lock controls were unplugged.

The door light lens needs to be opened and the door panel mounting bolts were also removed.

The door trim panel near the A-pillar comes off with a standard screwdriver.

The door panel was removed by lifting up and over the lock pin, which pulls out the tabs on the bottom.

Be careful to fish the light fixture out of the back before setting the door panel aside.

The speaker needs to be detached and pried out of its door mounting hole.

Be sure to unplug the speaker before setting it aside.

The AMP Power Step was supplied with a tube, which we fed through the speaker opening, past the grommet and through the wire chase into the cab.

With the tube in place, a wire can be threaded through it.

The rear door-ajar wire was located under the sill plate and cut.The butt connectors were attached to each side of the now-cut door-ajar wire.A single diode harness was installed in between the two halves of the door-ajar wire.

The purple trigger wire was routed to go under the floor and into to the main AMP Power Step wiring harness, to the double diode harness. One leg of the double diode gets connected to the red wire running into the door and the other leg goes to the single diode, which is now connected to the rear door-ajar wire.

We tapped into the front door-ajar wire inside the door panel.

The sliding T-nuts were located and lined up with the corresponding grooves in both arms. Next the steps were bolted on to the arms using the hex head screws included with our AMP Powerstep Kit.

The last step is to match the position of the steps on the arms for both sides of the truck with the help of a measuring tape..

How To Reset Ecu and Throttle Body

The 6 Best Kit Cars on the Market

Which Auto Manufacturer is Making the Most Expensive Car in the world in 2023 | Top 10 Most Expensive Cars

2022-09-21T11:10:00.022-07:00

There is one question that comes to the minds of many car enthusiasts and non enthusiasts alike , and quite honestly most of us would like to know which car is the most expensive in the world?

Well, we did some research to find out which Auto Manufacturers are producing the costliest cars in the year 2023. Now these cars are not just mere modes of transportation they much rather revered as artistic masterpieces and command fan followings in the millions. For many of us we might not unfortunately be able to own these beautiful expensive cars in our lives, but there is still something about looking at them and hearing the sweet roar of their engines that makes us go absolutely gaga.

So, without further ado lets move ahead to the list of Top 10 Most Expensive Cars in the world in 2022 :

10: ST1 by ZENVO ($12,00,000 USD)

At number 10 of our Top 10 most expensive cars in the world is the ST1 by Danish Super Car manufacturer Zenvo. Now the ST1 is not just a car with an insane price tag, it has also an insane amount of horsepower. The 6.8 v8 fire-breathing Zenvo ST1 produces a staggering 1100 HP and a 1000 ft/lb of Torque courtesy of both a Turbocharger and a Supercharger. With a monster living under the hood ; the exterior is quite the contrary as the sleek aerodynamic lines of the Zenvo ST1 are as elegant as a princess. So gear heads if you are looking to spend 1.2 Million $ on a sexy elegant monster of a car , the Zenvo ST1 is the perfect choice.

9. LaFerrari by Ferrari ($14,00,000 USD)

Almost every car enthusiast in the world has dreamt of owning or driving a Ferrari at one point in their life. Ferraris have a reputation of astounding race cars with even more astounding price tag. The LaFerrari is no different , with styling to leave you speechless, power to make your hair stand on end and a price tag that'll make you weep. Yes! the LaFerrari is priced at a cool $1.4 Million. and for that price it'll take you from 0-60 mph in just 3 seconds.

8. Pagani Huayra ($1.4 Million USD)

Named after a God, the Pagani Huayra not only has a Godly presence but also a godly price tag. But before we go any further we must first learn to pronounce it properly , the proper pronunciation of Huayra is "WHY-RAH". Now the Pagani Huayra is master piece crafted out of the best carbon fiber and withing it lives a fire breathing AMG V12 (6.0 BiTurbo). This lightweight monstrosity boasts 620 hp with a gut wrenching 750 ft/lb of torque.

7. Aston Martin One-77 ($14,00,000 USD)

Ah the infamous Aston Martin, the vehicle of choice for Mr.James Bond. The Aston Martin is an icon driven by an icon. James Bond might be fiction but the iconic styling and performance of cars produced by Aston Martin is far from fiction.And since we are talking about unearthly price tags; the Aston Martin One-77 can not be overlooked. The One-77 is a production hyper car by Aston Martin; it boasts a 7.3 ltr naturally aspirated motor producing 750HP and 550+ lbs/ft. of torque. This 1.4 Million USD toy will leave a dent in your wallet, but it will be followed by countless smiles when this baby hits 0-62 mph in just under 3 seconds.

6. Koenigsegg One:1 ($2 Million USD)

The Koenigsegg is a Swedish performance car manufacturer with a hard to pronounce name and a hard to afford price tag. The Koenigsegg One:1 in particular is a 2 Million USD supercar that only the richest of the rich can afford. The insane price tag will buy a custom crafted carbon fiber monstrosity with 1341 HP and 1101 lbs ft of torque. Koenigsegg named the One:1 after its ridiculous 1:1 power ratio.

5. Ferrari F60 America ($2.5 USD)

Tailor made for the American consumer, the Ferrari F60 America is mechanically quite similar to an F12 Berlinetta. The Ferrari F60 America is powered by a 6.2 ltr V12 motor which helps the car rocket from 0-62 mph in only 3.1 seconds. The region specific F60 Ferrari America also hold a region specific price tag of 2.5 Million USD.

4. Mansory Vivere Bugatti Veyron ($3.4 Million USD)

No 'Most Expensive Car' list can be complete without the inclusion of a Bugatti(or two).This list is similar because it feature the Mansory Vivere edition Bugatti Veyron. The motor marvel has a price tag that might make even some billionaires uncomfortable. Yes you read it right, the Bugatti Veyron Mansory Vivere edition costs a mind boggling 3.4 Million USD.

3. W Motors Lykan Hypersport ($3.4 Million USD)

The Lykan Hypersport is a Super Car originating out of Lebanon. The car is rather exclusive as many people didn't even know it existed until they saw it in Furious 7. This super exclusive super car will set you back an impressive 3.4 Million USD.

2. Lamborghini Veneno (Price Tag:4.5 Million USD)

Lamborghini has earned its place in the ranks of the most sought after super car manufacturers in the world. And looking at the Lamborghini Veneno one can safely assume that Lamborghini is out to produce the worlds most exotic super car as well. The Lamborghini Veneno is the kind of car that even the oil rich sheikhs think twice before buying ....err not because its a bad car...but because it costs 4.5 Million USD.

1. Rolls Royce Swept Tail (Price Tag :$12.8 million USD)

Ladies and car nerds the moment you have all have been waiting for as you skimmed through the article has arrived. Presenting the Ultra Rare , Ultra Powerful and Ultra Expensive Koenigsegg CCXR Trevita. The world's most expensive car in simpler word. Costing an affordable(NOT) 4.8 Million USD, the CCXR Trevita produces 1004 hp and around 800 lb-ft of torque courtesy of a dual supercharged 4.8 ltr V8. Only the Koenigsegg CCXR Trevita's were ever produced.

Q: What is the most expensive car in the world in 2023?

A: The most expensive car in the world in 2023 is the Koenigsegg CCXR Trevita with a price

Rust Repair DIY 2024 : Learn How to Remove Rust Spots From Your Car at Home

2022-09-21T11:06:00.001-07:00

Rust can be a major problem for car owners(especially in humid climates). Rust not only robs your car of its structural integrity but it also devalues it a great deal .Not to mention the hundreds of Dollars that are spent on rust repair. Body shops are usually well aware of the fact that most people are too scared to take on a Rust Repair DIY, so they charge a pretty penny.

Rust most commonly damages surface of items and places that are exposed to the elements (i.e moisture, air and salt).Moisture in the atmosphere cause metals such as iron and steel to develop rust fairly quickly due to oxidation processes. Rust usually leaves brown patches or spots on the metal's surface.

Read Our Rust Repair DIY step by step guideline so you can easily remove rust from your car at home.

Rust Removal/Repair Step by Step Guideline:

Tools Required :

Sandpaper Strips (Different Grits)
Primer (for rust proofing)
Paint (for covering rust stains.)
Knife / Paint Removal Tool
Small Hammer
Marker
Masking Tape
Bondo/Body Filler for dry repair

Step#1: Identify Rust Spots

The first step you need to take for removing rust from your car is actually marking out areas where the rust has corroded you cars body. Make sure you identify all the spots that have already rusted or are currently getting oxidized. The best tool for identification of rust spots would be a small knife or paint removal tool. For areas that are easily accessible try to remove the paint gently with a small knife/paint removal tool. Use a small hammer to tap lightly and identify the weak spots on the metal. Use the marker or tape to mark the areas that need rust removal treatment.

Step#2: Rust Removal

Now that the rusted areas have been identified, its now time to start removing the rust.Use a paper/rag to place beneath the metal. Slowly start removing the rust from the previously identified corrosion spots using a rough grit sand paper. Use a vacuum to remove all the rust-dust that will fall on to the rag in the process. Precaution should be taken with this dust it is harmful to human health and the health of metals in your garage alike.

Step#3: Filling the Rust Holes

After you are done removing all the rust from the corroded areas, you will notice there will be some holes left by the rust in the weaker areas.These holes require filling to prevent further rust issues. Use repair substances such as Body Filler or Bondo. Apply small amounts of Bondo to the affected areas and even out the excess with a squeegee until the filled area becomes indistinguishable. Wait for the prescribed time(varies with brand/product) for the Body Filler/Bondo to dry up.Run your hand over it to check for imperfections in the surface.

If you are faced with large rust holes, some welding might be required. Weld a rectangular plate to close all the gaps and cover a larger zone including the rust spot. The purpose of welding a larger piece of metal on is to cut out the rust agents completely. After welding, grind the excess down with an angle grinder to smooth out the area.

Step#4: Sanding & Primer Coating

After sealing the holes we need to ensure that the treated area is sanded and primed before painting. Get some fine grit sandpaper and start to wet sand the area to get a smooth surface for primer coating. Once all the imperfections are smoothed out, start coating the treated area with a few coats of primer (2-3 coats are advisable for optimum results).The primer coat will ensure that the treated area is rust proof. Without this step your rust repair job would be incomplete.

Step#5: Painting the Rust-Proofed Area

Congratulations! your cars body has successfully been saved from the menace of Rust. Its time to paint. Some fine grit wet sanding would be advisable before spraying on your first coat to get a quality finish. It is important to pick the right paint codes according to your car to match the painted spots with the rest of the car. Paint layers should be sprayed on evenly from a distance of about 6-8 inches. Once all the treated areas have been painted leave the paint to dry preferably in a dust/moisture free environment.

Engine Oil Cooler Pros and Cons | Engine Oil Cooler Benefits | Do I really need a Car Oil Cooler ?

2022-09-05T08:49:00.003-07:00

What is an Engine Oil Cooler ?

An Engine Oil Cooler is basically a heat-exchanging device much like a radiator but its function is to maintain the engines temperature through removing excess heat from the Engine Oil.

You might have seen some customized cars at your local meets with a small intercooler or radiator like contraption with two pipes leading into the engine bay. Engine Oil Coolers do offer some benefits when it comes to high performance | high revving engines, but does everyone need it ? Now that's a whole different debate. So to simplify things we have weighed out the pros and cons of engine oil coolers in the paragraph below so you can decide for yourself if you need one or not.

Engine Oil Cooler Pro's and Con's | Engine Oil Cooler Benefits

When it comes to engines it is commonly perceived that the cooler the better, but that is not entirely true apart from some exceptions. Before going on an engine oil cooler hunt, the first thing you will need to understand is what benefits would your engine gain from running the oil cooler than usual. Engine Oil is designed to flow at optimum viscosity in certain temperatures. It would simply become thick below optimum viscosity temperatures causing your engine to run heavier ultimately eating up the piston rings. On the other hand higher temperature will cause the oil to lose it viscosity which will cause your engine to overheat and stall maybe even seize up too. If you are not currently using synthetic based engine oil, then you should definitely consider switching. The reason behind it is that synthetic oils are much better suited for higher temperatures.

Engine Oil Viscosity Chart

Now to gauge if you really need and engine cooler or not, you will have to measure your cars initial oil temperature. Engines running higher oil temperatures should definitely be equipped with an engine oil cooler. A good oil cooler will not only lower your engine oil temperature but it will also cause the water temperature to drop by a good 10 degrees Fahrenheit easy.

If you're reading this chances are you're already using synthetic-based oil in your engine. Synthetic oils are better suited for higher temperatures-at least 40 degrees F higher than conventional oils. However, neither synthetic nor conventional oils function well at temperatures below 150 degrees F. The only real way to know whether or not you would benefit from an oil cooler is to record your initial oil temperature readings and see where you're at.

Do I really need a Car Oil Cooler ?

Now for the gentlemen running high performance engines (petrol or diesel) you should invest in a good oil cooler with Steel braided lines and AN fittings. And if you are running your car stock my advice would be to not waste money on an engine oil cooler as it might end up doing more harm than good.

If you have any questions or recommendations please hit us up in the comment section.

Car Soundproofing DIY: Learn How to Soundproof your Car at Home in 2023

2022-09-05T08:46:00.002-07:00

Soundproofing can greatly improve the ambiance in your car by deadening the noise coming from your engine and other parts. There are several key places from where sounds penetrate into your car, so insulating these areas with the correct materials will grant you a peaceful ride wherever you go. All of the materials you need for soundproofing can be easily found in automotive, hardware or music stores.

Soundproofing DIY Tutorial:

Things You'll Need

Adhesive hood insulator
Scissors
Anti-vibration mats
Contact adhesive
Screwdriver
1 ½ inch thick soundproofing material

Open the hood of your car and have a friend hold a sheet of hood insulator against the inside of the hood. You need to trim the insulator with scissors so it fits the shape of your hood, without sticking out past the edges.
Peel off the backing protecting the adhesive on the insulator and press the upper edge of the sheet against the upper edge of your hood. Make sure it is straight and aligned properly so the insulator lies nicely on the inside of the hood.
Press the insulator against the hood and smooth it out with your hand, working downward until the entire sheet is against the hood. Work out any air bubbles that form as you press the sheet down.
Cover the inside of the trunk door in the same way as the hood using the insulator sheets. Make sure you don’t put any insulator over the window of your trunk door, if there is one.
Take all of the mats and rugs out of your car and lay anti-vibration mats down on the floor. You will need to cut these mats so they are flat on the floor.
Pull the mats up and apply a thick bead of contact adhesive all around the edges on the back of the mats. Make sure there are no gaps in the adhesive so you have a solid, consistent line.
Press the mats back onto the floor, pushing the adhesive into the car as you smooth them out. You can put your rugs back into the car on top of the mats.
Trim a mat to fit inside your trunk and glue it to the car in the same way as you did with the other mats.
Open your door panels with a screwdriver. Each car will have different methods for doing this, but in general you will have to unscrew the hardware on the interior side of the door and disconnect the wiring, which will allow you to just pull the door panel open.
Cut a piece of 1 ½ inch thick soundproofing material to fit the size of your door panels. Make sure you cut opening for any wires or hardware that is part of the door that need to pass through the soundproofing.
Close your door panels and reconnect the wiring through the soundproofing.

Tips & Warnings

Using high quality tires helps to reduce the road noise; less expensive tires make more noise while you drive.
Make sure you use only automotive grade soundproofing materials or you could harm yourself and your car.

Smoked Headlamps DIY 2023 | Learn How to Smoke your Car's Headlights at Home

2022-09-05T08:42:00.001-07:00

There is one thing that is common in all gear heads, and that is the love for customizing their car's to own personal taste. And since there is huge a knowledge base for car enthusiasts on online communities, car customization has reached another level. Most guys especially tuners want an aggressive look for their cars. The front of the car plays an important roll in the cars overall looks. The headlights being the most important part, while there are hundreds of aftermarket headlight options but they usually cost a pretty penny and not really economical for the broke car enthusiasts like myself.

But that is where the fun bit starts... yes that means doing it yourself. I am assuming you have been searching away on the internet for smoked headlamp DIY Tutorials. Well you have landed on the right page, this DIY Tutorial will teach you how to smoke your car's headlights at home in 2022.

Smoked Headlamps DIY (Step by Step Tutorial):

So lets get cracking. Firstly you will want to note down the tools you will be needing for this DIY.

Tools Required to Smoke your Car's Headlights at Home:

Flathead Screwdriver Set
Masking Tape
Spray Paint (Black High Gloss)
Silicone Sealant
Baking Oven (Preferably with Temperature Controls)
Clean Cotton Cloth
Rubbing Alcohol

Now that we have our tools in place we will proceed to start this project.

Note: This tutorial was performed on an 00 Honda Civic.

Step 1: Opening Your Headlights:

The first thing you need to do take the headlights off of your car. There are five metal clips on the Honda Civic Headlight housing. Take the clips and all the screws off. Pre-heat your oven to around 350 degrees Fahrenheit.Civic headlights are glass, so you can pop them straight into the oven without needing to put extra sheets in the oven to put the headlights on(please ensure the material of your headlight lenses before putting them into the oven).

The next process is a bit delicate so you need to be careful. Put the headlights in the oven for about 5 minutes, then pull them out, try to gently pry the lens free from the headlights assembly using a Flat-head screwdriver. Get a feel for how much the glue has softened, if it feels hard to pry the lens off do not use excessive force as you may end up cracking the lens.Simply place the headlight back into the oven for a few more minutes so the glue can loosen up a bit more.

There is internal reflector needs to be unscrewed and removed before proceeding further.

Step 2: Masking and Painting:

So we have successfully taken the lenses off of our headlights. Its time for paint. Get the masking tape and mask off the fixed internal reflectors. After masking get a clean cotton cloth put a drop of rubbing alcohol and clean the area you are about to paint. Start spraying an even layer of the High Gloss Black spray paint. You will need to put on a two three layers of paint to get a quality finish.

(Note: You can use any color high gloss spray paint)

Step 3:Putting it all Back Together:

After you have air dried your headlights and given it a good two three hours for the paint to heal. Get the Silicone Sealant and apply it to the outer seams of the headlight lens where the glue previously held the housing together. Put your the lens on the assembly and pop it into place. Preheat your oven to 350 Degrees again and put your headlights in ideally for about 5-7 minutes. What this will do is loosen the silicone so it can spread out evenly into the seams. Take your headlights out air dry them in a cool place for about 5-6 hours allowing the silicone to harden and form a completely water tight fix.

After that re-attach the five metal clips you previously took off. And voila you have beautiful smoked headlights that can give any aftermarket headlight a run for its money.

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What is Wide Band Tuning? Wide band Oxygen Sensor Tuning Explained(Hondata)

2019-09-25T15:23:00.000-07:00

What is Wide Band Tuning?

Wideband Tuning is basically the practice of manipulating a car's Air/Fuel Ratios to get the most power out of it. This is achieved by using a wideband oxygen sensor which measures your Air/Fuel Ratio from about 10:1 up to about 20:1 AFR. This means that a wideband o2 sensor allows you to specifically target your AFR.. A narrowband o2 sensor on the other hand can only measure upto 14.7:1,

Why use a Wide Band O2 Sensor ?

The reason why tuners prefer wide band tuning is because of a few shortcomings of the stock narrow band sensor.Full throttle tuning only manages to tune about 1/5th -1/6th of the available map area. Part throttle where drivers spend most of thier driving time and it also happens to be the most common area for complaints. (e.g poor fuel economy, roughness, stumbling).Not many dynos are capable of holding a constant load for part throttle tuning. Dynos also have a some flaws such as inaccurate representation real world conditions like under-hood airflow at speed and RAM air effects etc. Cars tend to run Typically you car will run leaner off the dyno than on,

If the ecu is running closed loop and your part throttle fueling is incorrect, your full throttle fuelling will be affected directly. (read more abour closed loop). Another good reason to tune part throttle correctly. Using a wideband o2 sensor to tune on road conditions will enable more accurate fuel tuning. However this is not an alternative for dyno tuning, but supplements it.

Wide band Oxygen Sensor Tuning Explained(Hondata):

Hondata has had extensive tuning time with two wideband lambda meters, the PLX and the FJO. Most wideband meters - (the ones that are of any use in tuning here) have a 0-5 volt output proportional to air fuel ratio. That output is fed back into the O2 sensor wiring where ROM Editor or HondaLogger convert it back into a precise air fuel ratio. The stock O2 sensor is very inaccurate for anything other than 14.7:1 air fuel ratio. (image courtesy of FJO)

What is Wide Band Tuning? Wide band Oxygen Sensor Tuning Explained(Hondata)

Note - you must have Stage 4 as datalogging is used.

Installation

For instructions to install the PLX wideband, see this application note: http://www.plxdevices.com/AppNotes/PLXApp002.pdf

Remove the stock oxygen sensor and install the wideband O2 sensor.

Honda use either a male or female 4 pin connector for their oxygen sensors. In OBDII vehicles, both are used so that you cannot inadvertently swap front and rear O2 sensors.

1 Power and ground cables for the FJO wideband
2 Wideband O2 cable
3 0-5V Output from wideband to stock O2 wiring
4 In car air fuel ratio LED display

You can make an adapter (using the plug off a dead O2 sensor) that connects the 0-5V wideband output to the stock oxygen sensor plug. Tha adapter plug does two things. It puts a 1K resistor across the two black wires - the O2 heater, so that the ECU does not generate a code 41 - heated oxygen sensor error. Even if you do get this error the ECU functions normally.

The other two wires, typically green and white are ground and signal, which are connected to the wideband's ground and signal output.

ROM Editor and HondaLogger Setup

Open settings, click edit conversion table under Lambda and type in the voltage-airfuel values for the wideband you will be using. These values should be found in your wideband's documentation.

Edit Target Lambda and change the 750 Mb column to 12.94 by pressing the J key. This will get you closer to peak power for 750 mb air pressure. Remember that these target values are just suggestions. Your engine may require more or less fuel for maximum power.

Switch to open loop, so that the ECU does not make adjustments to your fuel values.
Set acceleration enrichment to zero - which due to a bug in ROM Editor 2.5 is labeled as cranking enrichment. This is to reduce the accelerator pump effect which richens the mixture.
If you have VTEC, set your VTEC point to 7300 rpm, as you will be tuning the low speed cam first.

Checking Operation

Start the car and read the air-fuel ratio from the wide-band's display. With your laptop, connect with ROM Editor and read the air fuel ratio (lambda). The values should be similar.

If the signal and ground are reversed, the lambda value might read high - say 20, and the car may run badly due the ECU being fed an incorrect negative sensor voltage.
Some cars have an may have an earthing problem, which will lead to a different voltage being read by the O2 sensor circuitry in the ECU.
Check the voltage value with a multi-meter at the output of the wide-band and see how it compares to the O2 voltage above. If there is a difference, install a diode with the diode cathode pointing to the FJO and the anode pointing to the the O2 plug (green sensor ground wire) The diode is type 1N4001, Radio Shack part # 276-1101. This prevents what is called a ground loop.

Tuning Part Throttle

Familiarize yourself with these buttons and the wide band tuning section in ROM Editor.

Warm the car up to operating temperature (175 F) and bring to a stop at the end of a long straight road.

Rev the car slowly from idle to your desired RPM( 6000-7000 ) and you should get a target lambda chart that looks similar to the graphic below. This tells you how rich or lean you are running by percentage. Put the car in first gear and drive the car slowly in first (or second). Values in column 4 should start to be recorded as you move to a higher lower vacuum with more load column 5.

Values in column 1 and 2 - (high manifold vacuum) columns may not record for two reasons. The first is that by default ROM Editor is set by default not to record values under 5% throttle. This is because under deceleration the injectors shut off and the wideband meter will read very lean air fuel ratios of 17-20. (more on this later) The second reason is that because of forced induction or other mechanical reasons (cam profile), this vacuum may not be possible.

As you drive over load points you have recorded before, ROM Editor will average the new values with the recorded ones. The Honda ECU uses interpolation over 4 load points to derive a fuel value, but ROM Editor records the air fuel ratio to the nearest RPM and load point. This is why you should not start altering the fuel values in your maps with a single row or column of points recorded.

Now you are ready to start making some changes. Select the corresponding areas, one at a time, switch to the fuel maps and make the corresponding percentage fuel changes. Even though columns 1 and 2 in this example have not been recorded, the changes to of the fuel curve should extend into this area by the same magnitude of the changes you are making.

Pro Tip:

Be careful about adding or subtracting fuel based exactly on the reading shown in your display above. If you are lean along a specific range of rpms or across a few MAP values, add fuel at least one rpm range before it as it affects reading in that area. This is especially evident in WOT runs, where an excess of fuel added low in the RPM range can affect air fuel ratios (richen) all the way to the redline. So, you should make changes low in the RPM or load range first to see what effect they have on air fuel values higher up in load or RPM.
Rewrite the chip or download the changes to the emulator. Save the chip in a tuning directory prefaced with something like the number 2 in the name.
From the Edit menu select Clear Lambda Highlighting - ctrl L. This erases the recorded lambda values. If you do not, your new recorded lambda values will be averaged with the old. Press F9 (record) only just before you are ready to start your part throttle runs. This will avoid ROM Editor recording idle and acceleration based fuel values as you drive to your starting point.
Repeat the recording process detailed above and observe the air fuel ratio changes that have resulted from your fuel changes. Now you can select smaller areas and make finer changes. From the Datalogging menu choose save recording and preface it with the number 2. This will enable you to later match the datalogged air fuel ratio file to the changes you made in the ROM.

Part to Full Throttle Tuning

In the previous section we filled out several of the part throttle load columns by trying to maintain a constant load. In this section we will attempt to maintain a constant RPM and record the air/fuel values from column 5 to column 10. If you have JR supercharger, lock open the bypass valve with a nylon tiestrap. At this point we do not want to generate boost. It you have a turbocharger, set the boost value as low as possible - preferably zero.

There are two techniques to part throttle tuning.

The first involves depressing the brake while accelerating to maintain a constant RPM, so as to fill in as many load values as possible. We have had reports back that this produces falsely rich values leading to over-leaning the fuel tables.

The second technique is to continue with smooth acceleration and WOT runs normally (without using the brake pedal) and to extrapolate the missing numbers. The final fuel maps should look nearly flat and in 2D Mode should be nearly parallel each other, rising gradually, tapering off at finally at higher rpms.

Braking Technique:

Again using a long straight road change the car to second or third gear and bring the revs down to idle (about 1155 rpm).

Depress the brake while depressing the accelerator. Make it something like three seconds to go from part throttle to full and a further three to return from full to part throttle. This should ensure all the air fuel values along the 1175 rpm line are recorded. This is quite difficult. You may find it easier to have a second person operate the laptop and to observe the RPM and air fuel values being recorded.

Increase the revs to the next line - 1375 rpm and so on up to 6000-7000 rpm.

Notes on this graph - display in air fuel values. Ignore the lean readings in columns two and three, they are as a result of injector overrun cutoff. Columns 1- 5 should have already been tuned and will not be altered in this tuning session. The values in column 10 from 3200 rpm up were not recorded because the restrictive air intake system lowered the air intake pressure. Attention here would improve power.

The aim here is to be smooth. Do not make large changes, but blend changes in 1 - 2 % at a time. Use the 2D map to make sure the fuel transitions are smooth. Ignore overly high or low recorded points (like the 15.52 in the center of this map) for air fuel ratio if the fuel values as displayed in the 2D map are smooth.

Full Throttle Tuning:

Once you have air fuel values broadly correct you will want to concentrate on some full throttle runs and the values in columns 8, 9 and 10. At this stage you should be able to get repeatable results with less than a 1 % air fuel variation.

For this car - a stock Civic ej8 the fuel curve should closely follow the torque curve - and it does, with peak torque at 4000 rpm. Note that after peak torque, the engine will need less fuel.
Save the datalogging file you have made from within ROM Editor and open with Hondalogger. Select RPM and Airfuel Ratio as charts.

Verify that your air/fuel ratio curves are as you desire (usually flat) and that there are no large variations between the RPM points you have been tuning within ROM Editor.

VTEC Tuning

Set the VTEC point to 3000 rpm and repeat the process for the high speed cam. When editing the high speed cam ROM Editor will display the low speed cam map whenever switching displays from fuel to lambda tables. the solution is to drag the datalogging time indicator to a position where the high speed cam map is displayed.

Boost Tuning

Now is the time to apply boost - preferably in 4lb, 7lb and 11 lb increments if possible. Tune down each of the boost columns. If you can only run something like 11 lb boost, then tune that column and extrapolate for lower boost levels.

This may not be the most efficient way of tuning. If you make improvements to this process let us know.

Learn How to Install Aftermarket Steering Wheel | MOMO RCE35BK1B Installation on DIY on EF Honda Civic

2019-04-15T17:31:00.001-07:00

Have a new aftermarket wheel in your room you want to install, but don't know exactly how? Watch, Read, and Learn.

1. Locate steering wheel.

2. Take your small screwdriver and pop the H emblem off the wheel.

3. Locate the steering wheel nut. 19mm or 13/16".

4. Find the appropriate socket/extention

5. Zip it out with an impact gun if you've got one. The reason I say use this is because you don't have to worry about the wheel moving very much as you rip the nut off, as opposed to useing a hand-powered ratchet.

6. If the nut doesnt come out in the socket, it'll just sit there like yay:

7. Then go ahead and pull the wheel off.

8. *edited* nvm.

9. Slip on the new hub.

10. Bolt down the new steering wheel nut. Connect your horn wire, etc and line up the wheel.

*Note*. When you slide the new hub in, hold the steering wheel up to it(with the wheel in the appropriate position(i.e. vertical) and see if the hub is on right. look at your tires. make sure it's straight unless you wanna live with a crooked wheel...

11. After you've lined up the screw holes on the wheel/hub, and have made sure the hub, wheel, and screws are correctly lined up.

And there you have it. Youv'e completed your wheel install. Good for you! Now your car is more jDm than ever.

Look how much smaller my newly installed wheel is. FYI it's a 11" wheel.

Before:

After

7 Must Have Tools for DIY Projects in 2023 | Tool Buying Guide 2023

2014-03-06T01:48:00.006-08:00

They say great DIY Projects can only be made possible with great DIY Tools. When it comes to DIY projects, the first and most important thing for a DIY enthusiast to have is a 'GOOD' (read great) set of tools. Some have the ingenuity to use a limited number of tools for a multitude of purposes. But for the simple man there are some basic tools that must be at hand all the time.

Without further ado let us look at the 7 Must have tools for Automotive DIY Projects that every gear head should own.

Tool # 1: Magnetic Screw Driver Set

Magnetic Screw Driver

A magnetic screw driver set comes in handy from opening a door handle to dismantling an engine. So it is a must have for a rookie DIY enthusiast.

Tool # 2: Torque Wrenches:

Torque Wrench Set

If you are going to build a car or going to do home improvement DIY, You will definitely need to keep a set of Torque Wrenches handy.For example,almost all parts of a car are held together by nuts and bolts of different shapes and sizes. A normal set of wrenches although good for unscrewing nuts but it makes the task very labor-some , So to save yourself the hassle get a nice set of torque wrenches.

Tool # 3: Jack stands:

Jackstands come in very handy when working with the under body of the car, not only do they provide a stable lift and make sure that the vehicle doesn’t fall over ,they also provide a good and stable clearance to work underneath the car.

Tool # 4: WD-40:

WD-40

The only thing that WD-40 cannot do is bring a dead man back to life. Any other problems and it comes in handy .WD-40 sprays must always be available when working on your car because they will help you in removing jammed parts and nuts, freeing jammed/clogged mechanisms and for overall lubrication of moving parts.

Tool # 5: Soldering iron:

Soldering Iron

Soldering irons can save you a fair bit of cash when working with the electrical bits of the car. Heat shrink and tape is also necessary for working with the electrical parts.

Tool # 6: Pliers and Cutter set:

A pliers and cutter set comes in handy in almost every types of job. A good pliers and cutter set doesn’t cost much and is very helpful for prying off parts, cutting wires/pipes, straightening sheet metal and bent screws and taking off rivets.

Tool # 7 Miscellaneous Bits:

Miscellaneous Tools

Various small items are very useful in DIY projects, small items such as ,Extra Wires, Rivets/Rivet Guns, Pipe Fasteners and Clips ,Fly clips, Plumbing Tape, Grease and Glue may come in very handy when fixing up your ride.

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Performance DIY by DIY Guru

How Much Does It Cost to Get a Check Engine Light Diagnosed for Free vs Paying?

How much does a check engine light diagnosis cost?

1. Start with a free check engine light scan

2. Use your own OBD-II scanner

3. Pay a mechanic for a proper diagnosis

4. Dealership diagnosis can cost more

Free scan vs paid diagnosis: what is the difference?

When should you pay for diagnosis?

What should you do first?

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I get a check engine light diagnosed for free?

Is a free check engine scan accurate?

Is paying $100 for a diagnostic worth it?

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