Pet and Reptile

Autumn Dog Coats, Many Styles To Choose

2011-09-22T07:32:00.000-07:00

Dog Coats for all weather conditions and all breeds.

With autumn upon us maybe it’s time to think about a new dog coat, here is a list of our more popular designs with a brief manufacturers description,

If you require more information on these or any of the other dog coats we have for sale please do contact us for details. Our coats are listed at or below the manufacturers recommended price and the price includes FREE UK POSTAGE. Order Online NOW! www.allpet.co.uk

. Measure your dog from the nape of the neck to the base of the tail to determine the required size.

The Pet Shop 12-14 London Street Faringdon SN7 7AA 01367 244828

The "Quilted Step-In-Suit" from Alex Griffiths Cosipet.

A robust all in one suit that covers the whole underneath with

a secure zip fastening accross the back. The thick quilted

showerproof nylon provides warmth and comfort. Easily maintained

and fully machine washable.

Made exclusively in the UK.

Available in a choice of two colours: Red or Navy

Sizes: 8" (20cm), 10" (25cm), 12" (30cm), 14" (35cm), 16" (41cm),

18" (46cm), 20" (51cm), 22" (56cm) & 24" (61cm)

The "Trouser Suit" from Alex Griffiths Cosipet.

A superb all in one coat in shower proof nylon. Zip

fastening along the back and elasticated cuffs provide

a comfortable fit, keeping any dog clean and tidy.

Made exclusively in the UK.

Available in a choice of two colours: Red and Navy and NEW TARTAN

Sizes: 8", 10", 12", 14", 16", 18", 20", 22", 24", 26", 28", 30".

Danish Design

The Wharfedale Wax Coat has been styled on the Australian Drovers’ Coat. This robust

chocolate brown waxed coat features thermal lining with full chest protection. With a

stylish built in cape, corduroy collar and attractive patch pockets, the Wharfedale

coat offers a fashionable solution for the great outdoors. Made from 100% Waxed Cotton

Fabric and available in 11 sizes. Measure your dog from the nape of the neck to the base

of the tail to determine the required size.

The Luxury Dog Coat features a new waterproof, windproof and breathable fabric

complete with thermal lining and full chest protection. With light reflective

beading for safety at night, these coats offer superb protection against the elements.

The Luxury Dog Coat comes in four colourways:- Dusty Blue, Ebony, Caramel and

Classic Check. Available in 11 sizes. Measure your dog from the nape of the neck to

the base of the tail to determine the required size.

The unique Waggles Dog Coat range has been re-styled. The new coat features a

realistic distressed leather look and feel, and is complimented by a rich cream

fleece lining and turn back collar to give that flying jacket look. Further

enhanced by the introduction of chest protection, the Waggles Dog Coat is a

superb twist on a classic design. To complete the look; helmet, goggles and

flowing scarf are optional! Made from 100% showerproof Polyester. Available

in 11 sizes. Measure your dog from the nape of the neck to the base of the

tail to determine the required size.

Outhwaites NEW UNDERBELLY DOG COATS

Waterproof : Windproof : Washable

These new 'Full Underbelly' coats are a very practical and attractive

addition to the 'Breathe-Comfort' range.

Manufatured from the quality 600D woven polyester in either a blue/green

or tartan design these coats also have an adjustable neck fastening to

make putting on even easier.

They are manufactured with fully taped seamed edges and come complete

with a padded lining for extra warmth and comfort.

All coats are supplied with a generous velcro fastening and packaged in

their own carrier bag,

FOR PICTURES AND MORE DOG COATS VISIT www.allpet.co.uk

Keeping pets cool this summer

2011-08-22T09:13:00.000-07:00

Summer can be a difficult time for pets, both big and small. The increase in temperature can mean some animals are not able to cope with it. As a pet owner there are some things you can do to help reduce the strain on your much loved pets.

Small animals, such as hamsters through to guinea pigs may find their sleeping patterns become disturbed if they are in an area that is too hot for them. Consider where you put their bedding and living quarters. You may want to move them to a cooler room, away from direct sunlight. You can also consider cage covers as a good way of keeping a bit of shade around. Water is also an issue in the summer. It will inevitably warm up in sunlight, causing it to become stale. You might even notice algae blooms appearing. A great way to combat this is to clean the bottle daily with a disinfectant designed for rodents, making sure to thoroughly rinse. You can also use a special insulated bottle in order to keep water cooler for longer.

Cats will love the sunshine. They will bask in the suns rays given any chance they can. This can be a problem though, as many outdoor cats will suffer from sunburn. Using a small dab of sun lotion on ear tips and other areas of exposed skin can help the sun seeking feline to stay sun burn free! Water should also be kept cool and clean, many cars will and do drink from puddles, but at this time of year it is often difficult to find area to sip, so your own water bowl may be their only choice!

Dogs also tend to feel the heat. As with cats, using sun lotion on exposed areas of skin for the outdoor loving dog can help reduce sunburn. Be aware that on very hot days your dog’s paws may also be at risk of burn from hot tarmac! If you go for a long walk you may want to take a ‘pocket puddle’ with you. They conveniently fold into a small pouch and provide an excellent portable bowl for water stops along the way. Also remember never to leave your dog in the car on a hot day, even if it is just for 20 minutes, it can be deadly. If travelling in the car, there are some things you can do to make your dog more comfortable. Try the RAC range of travel products. The portable water and food bowl makes stopping for refreshments a family wide thing and the RAC window guard means your dog can enjoy fresh air without the dangers of having the window open.

For those with more exotic pets, keeping an eye on temperature is key. Most set-ups should have a thermometer and thermostat to keep an eye and adjust automatically. Sometimes, it gets too hot for that adjustment to be significant. You may want to think about turning off some features of your set up, such as heat mats. You could even try to relocate the vivarium to a cooler spot in the house. Lowering the wattage of heat bulbs is also another thing to consider when trying to maintain the correct temperature in the summer.

Lastly, keeping an eye on your pet's behaviour is a great way to make sure they arent suffering from heat exhaustion. Reptiles may burrow or squeeze themselves into cooler areas of their enclosure. Rodents will often be seen moving their bedding space to a shady spot. Dogs in paticular will display a lot more panting and possibly have a wetter nose than usual. Keeping an eye out for these symptoms, no matter what pet you have, will ensure that both you and your companion can enjoy summer to the full!

Is your dog’s diet healthy?

2011-06-18T05:36:00.000-07:00

In recent years we have become very aware of what goes into our food and we are ever increasingly aware of what effects having an unbalanced diet can have. But do we look closely enough at the food we are providing for our pets? Dogs in particular have a varied diet with some owners lavishing them with a cooked roast every night and other owners providing what they feel is a good value food. But how much do we really know about our dog’s food and the level of health it provides?

Many owners look for premium foods that offer the best health benefits for their dogs, but with most foods boasting their health benefits it can be hard to know what is needed and indeed, what to choose. The best thing to do is decide what your dog needs at his or her stage of life. Are they a young, growing puppy that needs extra protein or are they an older dog that needs to keep weight off and have something to support his joints? If you are concerned about what will benefit your dog and what is just wasted in a food you should ask your vet for advice, a phone call should suffice to get the information you need.

But beyond these health benefits are we looking into what the food is made from? Many health and even behavioural problems can arise from feeding foods that don’t agree with some dogs, many of which can be found in dog foods, both value and premium. Itchy, flaky or red skin, dry or cracked paws and poor coat condition are some of the obvious signs of a food disagreeing. Inconsistent bowel movements and difficulty or frequent need to go to the toilet are also fairly obvious, but sometimes overlooked, signs.

Further more your dog may experience ear or eye problems as well as joint or growth problems if fed the wrong things consistently. The problems may not stop there either; these small health problems can lead to bigger issues as well. Any sign of these problems and you should always consult a vet, but be aware that food and diet plays a huge part in any health issue. Behavioural issues may also arise in some dogs, symptoms such as being irrationally reactive to noise or movement as well as being nervous or aggressive may be down to food not agreeing.

So what foods should you avoid? The first and usually most widely used product is wheat. Some dogs can tolerate an amount of wheat others will suffer when they eat it. Unfortunately it is a cheaper ingredient and therefore used widely in many treats and foods. In their natural states dogs would eat mainly meat and of course a small amount of vegetation and other foods that their prey has eaten. So while they aren’t totally opposed to eating it, continual large amounts may cause your dog to react badly. Always check the back of the food or treat bag; you will be surprised how many foods have it as a first ingredient!

A second culprit is maize and cereals. Maize is often used as a replacement for wheat as more dogs can tolerate it than wheat, but it can still cause problems. Even more so ‘cereals’ as they tend to be any cereal crop, which doesn’t have to be stated which one on the bag. A small amount of these is okay in most cases but it is usually better to opt for items with these ingredients further down the list, not at the top.

Other foods that dogs may be sensitive to include, soya, dairy, beef, chicken, fish, pork and potato. Not all dogs are sensitive to these things, but if you notice a pattern occurring when you feed a certain type of food (for example beef treats and afterward a red tummy or itchy patches) you may want to avoid it.

So how can you feed your dog a healthier diet? There are several premium dog foods that don’t contain any of these known offenders. Burns and James Wellbeloved are two popular brands. You can also look out for wheat free meat and mix that with a wheat free mixer. The best way however is to simply read the back of the packets, many own brands are now coming round to the realisation that a lot of dogs don’t go well with certain foods and as a result the kibble market is changing for the better.

Lastly, why are manufacturers allowed to use ingredients that aren’t healthy? Simply put, not all dogs will be sensitive. You should also keep in mind that the kibble market is relatively new. Twenty years back the majority of foods were a mixer and meat set up, but kibble foods slowly became standard because of their convenience. The wheat and cereal in them meant that they were cheaper and that they would keep longer, there wasn’t much to suggest that they would have adverse affects on some dogs. However, as the market evolves and expands, people are finding out about the different ingredients in the foods and if dogs can tolerate them or not. This also means that the varieties are expanding and you as a consumer, by buying what you believe to be best, will have an influence on what is available in the future.

Inviting Wildlife to your Garden

2011-06-04T03:24:00.000-07:00

Whether you have a large backgarden or a balcony as your garden space, there are lots of things you can do to invite a healthy array of local wildlife into your outside area. Both children and adults alike will enjoy the many creatures that can be both fun to watch and beneficial for your environment.

The first thing people think of when they talk about backyard wildlife are wild birds. With common speices such as Pidgeon, sparrow, starling and thrush to the less common woodpecker, wren and finch, all of them are fun to watch and feed. The best way to attract them is to provide lots of tasty morsels. Bird feeders placed strategicly around what available space you have is a sure fire way to find some feathered friends. If you have a large space, bird tables with suet and other bird foods are a good place to start, with hangers and feeders dotted around other areas, such as patios and trees. If your space is limited, there are various window hangers and feeders that will fix neatly on most windows and allow for a close up view of the birds' feeding habits.

However, often an overlooked aspect of feeding birds is what some species naturally eat, bugs of course! Insects help to keep any garden healthy, with bees pollinating and predatory bugs such as ladybirds keeping pesky aphids and the like away, maintaining a careful balance will make any garden thrive. A vast array of bugs will also invite more birds to your garden and help out many of our rarer breeds. If you have a large space, planting fragranced flowers in medium patches will attract bees and butterflies, with some useful plants being buddleja, geranium, hyacinth, lavender, dandelion, clover and nettles. You may even want to keep a 'wild patch' an area where you can allow plants seen as weeds to grow, while mainting it and keeping it tidy. This will allow a huge number of catapillars and later butterflies to frequent there and bring a spot of colour to the garden. If you have a smaller space you can try pot plants or window boxes filled with some butterfly attracting plants or even place a 'bug box' or two. A bug box is a small wooden box, much like a nesting box, but its usually filled with hollowed wooden canes. This makes a perfect place for non aggressive pollinating bees, such as the solitary mining bee, which are becoming rarer and rarer in the UK.

Boxes in general are a good idea to place in the garden. Smaller areas will benefit from a few nesting boxes. You might even want to introduce bat boxes in higher areas, as bats are superb insect catchers and will help keep annoying midges and mosquitoes away. In larger areas, leaving hedgehog boxes in secluded areas will be a nice way to keep some spikey critters around, which will help to keep slugs and snails down too! Of course, you don't have to invest in boxes, a pile of dry twigs and leaves in a secluded area will allow for hedgehogs and maybe even lizards to take refuge. Generally keeping a maintined 'wild' space full of wildflowers and large stones and branches will allow for some interesting animals to make their homes in your back garden.

However, if you intend to attract wildlife, you should also be aware of what you need to do in order to keep away unwanted visitors. If you feed your birds its generally not a good idea to leave food on the floor as this can attract rats. While you are bound to get some rodents in your garden, you want to minimise that so don't leave too many built up areas and those that you do have, make sure to maintain and check occasionaly. Also be careful where you place any nesting boxes, bats in the roof may not be so pleasant! Leaving food out for hedgehogs, badgers or foxes is also not advised. While they are a joy to watch most of the food available (such as cat food which is commonly given to hedgehogs) isnt nutritionally correct. You will also find that some larger animals, such as foxes will become dependant on you and your food source, bad if you can no longer provide for them and also bad if they start raiding dustbins!

All in all, if you are careful with how you do it, inviting a vast array of local wildlife will be great for you, your garden and the wildlife population in your area. A fantastic win win situation for all!

Caring for a chameleon

2011-03-21T07:34:00.000-07:00

Many people look at chameleons and their usual reaction is ‘wow’ or ‘cool!’. It’s true that chameleons are one of the most stunning and unusual reptiles you can keep. But it’s also true that they have specific care needs and without getting this right they can quickly become ill and unhappy. Chameleons live for around 5 years and for all that time they need a lot of special care. So before you get a chameleon, be sure to read this care sheet and make sure you are prepared to give your new pet all it needs.

The first thing you need to know is what type of chameleon you will be getting. The most commonly found species is the Panther Chameleon and the Veiled or Yemen Chameleon. Both species are striking, yet the Veiled chameleon is usually easier to keep and easier to obtain, this care sheet will focus on the Veiled chameleon because of this. Whatever type of chameleon you decide to get, make sure that you not only read up on it, but ensure it is a captive bred Chameleon. This is often shown as ‘CB’ on stock lists and supplier’s lists. Wild caught chameleons are often unhealthy, often with parasites, they may not tame and usually endure long and stressful journeys to reach you, so it is best to buy a captive bred chameleon.

The veiled chameleon comes from some parts of Saudi Arabia and most parts of Yemen (hence it’s other common name). It would naturally be found in very hot areas, near streams. Some veiled chameleons can be found in desert areas, near streams with limited vegetation, while others are found in lush highland plateaus. While your chameleon is captive bred, it’s body is still adapted to these conditions and this is helpful in knowing how to provide a suitable enclosure.

The enclosure

Some keepers prefer to construct a tall structure with some sort of meshing, either fine aluminum or something to withstand the heat of bulbs. Others use the more traditional wooden or glass vivariums, which are readily available. What ever you choose, make sure that your chameleon has plenty of space to move, up and down, and that there will be enough room to create a thermal gradient. As a general rule there should be at least 25”/64cm of height in the enclosure. Another important aspect is ventilation. As chameleons like humidity and heat, poor ventilation means that fungus and bacteria can grow rapidly, this nearly always results in your chameleon becoming ill. To avoid this, make sure there is at least one mesh door. If your entire enclosure is mesh this will be fine, some glass vivariums have mesh tops and ventilated doors, this is adequate. If you use a traditional vivarium, with sliding doors, simply replace one of the doors for thin dowel with mesh, its best placed furthest away from the heat lamp, as air will circulate the best like this.

No matter what you use, you should never place a chameleon next to noisy areas, or high traffic areas, they will get stressed! You should also avoid putting them in direct sunlight, near radiators or doorways. All of these things can cause temperature irregularities, which will stress your chameleon. Above all you should only ever house on chameleon at a time. In the wild they would not be sociable creatures and it only serves to stress them when put in permanent close quarters!

You should also aim to provide some chunky and robust climbing structures, securing large branches is a good place to start. You can add live or plastic plants in sturdy, heavy pots, make sure none of the plants or plastics are toxic! Make sure your chameleon can access all areas of the enclosure so he can climb around and regulate his temperature. Placing lots of different branches, vines and plants helps your chameleon to feel safer and gives more cope for feeding and watering.

Heating, Lighting and Humidity.

The veiled chameleon, coming from very warm areas, needs a high temperature range, around 32-36 Celsius during the day at the hottest part of the vivarium, known as the basking area. The other end, usually lower down, should be around 22-26 Celsius at the very least, higher than this is okay as long as there is a gradient of heat for the chameleon to move in and out. The heat can be provided by a 40-60 watt basking bulb, usually fitted outside of the enclosure to stop your pet from burning itself. In mesh enclosures, or those with mesh tops this is easily done, but in am traditional style vivarium you will need to fit the bulb well out of reach of the chameleon. Most keepers advise you not to put a guard around the bulb as the chameleon may climb onto it and still burn itself, or even worse pull the guard off and injure itself. Its much better to keep it well out of reach.

Along with heat, comes UV rays. It is essential for your chameleon to get UV rays as they help to synthesize vitamin D3, a much needed nutrient. This is best provided with a special reptile UV light. These are usually fitted onto the back or on top of the enclosure and powered by a ‘starter’. The light is angled down with use of a reflector. Make sure the light you are buying is meant for providing UVB and UVA to reptiles and that it has at least 5.0 UVB/UVA, tungsten (light bulbs) or fish tank lights are not adequate for this. However some companies, such as exoterra, sell ‘canopy tops’, which is an all in one UVA/B light unit for their range of vivariums, a convenient way to fit these otherwise unsightly bulbs.

Lastly you will need to provide humidity in the enclosure, although veiled chameleons come from hot areas they are naturally found where insects are abundant, this usually means in high humidity areas. Providing this for your chameleon is straightforward and can team up with your ‘watering’ method. Spraying the enclosure 4-6 times a day can help, although a dripper, a water container that drips a regulated supply of water, usually into a dish or collection tray, is usually a better method. Don’t let your chameleon get too wet, excess water is not a good idea and can lead to health problems. Some keepers use potted plants to help moisten the atmosphere, although chameleons will sometimes eat the plants so use non toxic varieties, such as umbrella plants, fiscus and hibiscus. Even better, use plastic plants, settled in pots filled with large vermiculite, that you can spray regularly.

Providing water

The first thing people usually notice is that there are no water bowls in our chameleon enclosures. Some chameleons, especially young ones, can fall and drown into water, but the main reason that a static bowl of water is not provided is that the chameleons cannot see it! Chameleons can only see moving water, or water that is collecting on surfaces. This is why spraying them regularly is one of the best ways to give them water. They will happily lick droplets from the side of the enclosure, leaves and other décor in the vivarium. If you cannot spray them regularly, maybe because you are away for some of the day, provide a dripper. This is suspended bottle of water with a tube that regulates the flow of drips. It’s a great way to maintain humidity and provide a permanent source of water.

However you provide water, make sure it is always fresh, if using tap water make sure you let it stand for a little bit to get rid of the chlorine however it is generally better to use mineral water as it contains less chemicals. You should also try to warm the water, especially if you spray it, as the water cools quite quickly when sprayed and can be quite a shock to your poor chameleon! Boiled and slightly cooled water is a great way to do this, but make 100 percent sure to test that the water is not too hot or cold by spraying your arm at a reasonable distance. If your pet chameleon comes to the nozzle of the bottle to drink, put your finger in front of the nozzle and spray to check it is not too hot. Be careful not to burn yourself either!

Feeding

The food is the most important part for a chameleon as it helps keep it in tip top condition. Chameleons eat live insects, so before buying a chameleon make sure you don’t mind feeding live creepy crawlies. Some chameleons will eat a very small amount of vegetables too. You also need to provide calcium and vitamin powder, usually this is dusted onto insects. The reason you need this is that the amount of light you provide with a UV bulb is not adequate compared to the sun. So to help your chameleon get all the nutrients he needs, a dusting formula is needed. Usually calcium supplement s used but there are specialized veiled chameleon formulas that are probably more suitable.

The main types of bugs you will be feeding will be Waxworms, Mealworms, crickets and occasionally locusts. Young chameleons will like to eat very small brown crickets and occasionally small mealworms, although you should be careful not to provide too many as they can be hard to digest. Young chameleons will enjoy fruitflies ans a nutritious part of their meal. Older chameleons will eat larger brown crickets, never ever use black crickets as they have larger jaws and if uneaten can harm the chameleon. Large mealworms, known as super worms or morios are best as there is more flesh to shell and are more digestible. Locusts can also be given in place of crickets. Waxworms can be provided as a treat to all ages, although some chameleons get addicted to them and refuse to take other types of food. This is bad because waxworms are high in fat. Try to offer waxworms only one a week, so this doesn’t happen, they keep for a long time so a tub will last a while before they turn into moths, which can also be fed to your chameleon!

All insects should be coated in vitamin supplement; you can put them in a bag or tub and gently shake them to do this. You should also give them carrot, spring greens and other leafy vegetables when in their tubs as they will eat them and pass the nutrients on, a technique known as gut loading. When feeding them to your pet chameleon you can use a high sided jar or tub. Sturdy tubs that they cannot crawl out of are great placed on the floor as well as being tied evenly to branches in the enclosure. This makes a great way of stimulating your chameleon and giving your pet a bit of fun during feeding. Some chameleons will also take food from your hand, although you need to tame them and be very patient to get them to do this.

Lastly, some vegetables can be added, your chameleon may or may not eat them. If they don’t its still good to put some in the larger feeding tubs with the inscts as they will gut load themselves while in the tub. You can provide spring greens and these can also be dusted in the same way the insects are. Remember to remove any uneaten vegetables and insects at night so they don’t harm your chameleon while he sleeps.

You should aim to feed young chameleons as much as they will take, this is usually around 8-20 small insects daily but as they grow older you should restrict it to 6-15 medium or large insects as they will gorge themselves otherwise, leading to health problems later.

Taming your chameleon

Chameleons are not social creatures. In the wild they camouflage themselves and this becomes their main line of defense, so when they are unable to do this they not only become really stressed, but may hiss, rear up and attempt to bite. However sometimes you will need to move your chameleon, maybe to go to the vets, or so you can do a clean of the enclosure. Therefore you will need to attempt to tame your new pet!

The best way of doing this is to try and get a young chameleon, they will be more used to you than an older chameleon, who will be very set in his or her ways. You can start to offer food from the hand, try offering something super tempting, like a waxworm. Hold it very still, on the flat of your hand and try not to make any sudden movements that could scare your pet. Also try not to be scared of your chameleon when it shoots out is tongue, it won’t hurt! When it is regularly accepting waxworms from you try other foods, such as morio or mealworms, this way it will come to trust you. Eventually, when it takes a variety of foods, try putting your arm near you chameleon, it might decide to climb on your hand or arm, but don’t force it! Some chameleons will never like to be picked up, others may even enjoy coming out for a little while, each one is unique so don’t forget to take that into account.

Males and females.

You can tell males and females apart by looking at the back feet. The male veiled chameleon will always have a pad at the back, known as a spur. A female will not. Think carefully about if you want a male or female. Each chameleon is different so temperament is rarely an issue with deciding the sex of your new pet.

The bigger issue is that a female will become ‘gravid’ or full of eggs up to three times a year. If not catered for properly the female can sometimes become egg bound, a major threat to her life. When the female is gravid the abdomen will swell a little and the colours will intensify. She may come down to the bottom of the enclosure more often, during this time you should provide a tub of moist sand, bird sand or reptile sand is the safest. She can then deposit her eggs in this tub. Even if the female does not mate, she will do this and if a tub is not provided the risk of being egg bound is much more. If you don’t feel you want to cope with this as a first time chameleon owner you should make sure you get a male chameleon.

New dog coat offer

2011-03-07T03:43:00.000-08:00

As the Dismal weather continues in many parts of the UK, at http://www.allpet.co.uk/ we have put together a special offer on all our dog coats to brighten your dog's day!

But firstly, why do dogs need coats? Not long ago most people would laugh at the idea of putting a dog in a coat. However, slowly people are coming to realise the benefits of giving your dog that extra protection when they take much needed exercise in the wet or cold weather.

The first function of a dog coat is to keep your dog clean and dry. Many of our dog coats will offer protection against mud, snow and the dreaded grit that gets in their fur. This can not only lead to mess in your home but an uncomfortable and sometimes painful grooming experience for your dog too!

Something else that is usually overlooked by dog coat sceptics is the health benefits. Dogs need regular exercise to have both good physical and mental health, if your dog is less messy when he or she returns you will be happier to take them!

Deep Chested breeds or older dogs will also be more susceptible to cold, damp weather, which can lead to respiratory problems and inevitably vets bills! Simply keeping them warm and dry can help reduce this risk. The same goes for arthritic dogs or those with skin complaints, keeping them clean, warm and dry whilst out and about is never a bad thing.

We currently stock a good range of dog coats for all types of dogs and measuring your dog couldn't be simpler. Just measure from where the collar usually sits to the base of the tail and that is the size you need. In the case of being between conventional sizes, go one up. So an 11" dog would take a 12" coat. We are always a quick call or e-mail away if you require help or need to return an item!

One of our most popular dog coats is the Alex Griffiths Trouser Suit as it features full legs and a zip up back, giving almost complete waterproof protection. It also guards from ice and mud clumps forming on longer hair, always a painful thing to try and remove.

Another brilliant design is the Outhwaites range, particularly the underbelly coat, although offer slightly less protection, it still covers the chest area and is made from breathable yet waterproof and warm 660d Woven Polyester. This is great for older dogs or those who dislike their legs or paws touched.

We have lots of other styles too, so don't forget to check out our full Dog Coats Range!

And now has never been a better time to purchase a coat, as with each order we will send out a bag of Coachies, Wheat and GM free training treats, completely free!* Yum Yum!

Hamster Hhow clean?

2011-02-22T08:59:00.000-08:00

Like most domesticated pets, hamsters will generally clean themselves and prefer living in a clean environment. This does however mean that there is a need for you, the hamster's owner, to play your part, by ensuring the cage is always clean and supplied with fresh bedding.

The first thing to point out that your hamster will generally designate one or two areas of its cage for a toilet. If you can change the bedding material in these areas regularly, every couple of days, you should dramatically cut down on the smells that may come from a dirty hamster cage and also prolong the period between full cage cleans.

How often should a hamster cage be cleaned out depends on how dirty they get, but you do need to ensure that stale food and droppings are removed regularly. A full clean of the hamster cage once a week is recommended.

You should never really have to bathe your hamster. Washing them is not good for their fur as the water removes the natural oils from the fur, which can make them unwell. Chinchilla sand can help keep the coat in good condition, but there may be times when you feel you have to wash your hamster. These should only be in exceptional circumstances, for example if there is something on the fur that may be toxic of harmful to your hamster if ingested (as they lick the fur to clean it).

If there is a substance that needs to be removed from the fur you should consider if it is possible to cut it away, or brush it out. If this is not possible or the substance is something like paint or something very sticky and you feel forced to wet your hamster then do so very carefully with a small amount of warm water, keeping it away from the nose, mouth ears and eyes. When clean, dry your hamster very gently with a towel and if possible with a hair drier on a low setting held far away from the hamster. Make sure your hamster is completely dry before returning it to its cage so that the bedding does not stick to the fur.
One thing to consider is that if there is a bad smell coming from your hamster it may be because it is sick and in this case you should take your pet to the vet to be checked over.

If you regularly clean and disinfect your hamster cage and remove droppings and old food as recommended above, you should easily maintain a clean, healthy and sweet smelling home for you and your hamster.

Here are more examples of an easy to clean hamster cage.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=S_Murray

New pet litter

2011-02-22T02:43:00.000-08:00

Reptile feeding equipment

2010-10-17T11:45:00.000-07:00

When feeding your reptiles it is very important to gut load or dust the live food with a quality vitamin/mineral supplement. The Vivicator is a useful device to stimulate your reptile to feed even if the livefood is not very active or if you are feeding dried insect food.

A Remote Controlled Vibrating Feeding Dish, A Perfect Alternative To Feeding

Live Insects. The High Frequency Vibrations Stimulate The Movement And Motion

Of Live Insects. Ideal For Canned Insects. Battery Operated.

Another useful item is the feeding rock, which gives your livefood a place to hide and get coated in vitamin powder in the process.

• No mess

• Saves valuable supplements

• Stimulates natural feeding behaviour

• Ideal to 'coat' crickets with vitamins

• Natural look

• Easy to clean

Finally you may want to consider a Kricket Keeper for easy access to your livefood, this is a small plastic tank with tubes inserted through the top. The livefood crawls into the tubes to hide and you can then easily remove them from the Kricket Keeper and shake them out into your pets enclosure.

BUY NOW HERE

Where Did Guinea Pigs Get Their Unusual Name?

2010-10-15T07:01:00.001-07:00

Guinea pigs were first brought to the Western world in about 1550, and have been known by this name ever since. Although we are used to the term now, when you think about it, it is an unusual choice seeing as these animals don't come from Guinea, and they aren't related to pigs.

So where did the name come from? Nobody knows for certain, but there are a couple of possible explanations which are the most likely. Let's discuss them by looking at each part of the name on its own.

The 'pig' part is probably the easiest to explain. Although they aren't related to pigs, guinea pigs are very similar to them in several key ways. For example, they are both quite stocky creatures, with big heads and short tails. They both like to spend much of their time eating and sleeping, and both make squeaking noises.

It is likely that people saw these similarities, and hence used the term 'pig' as part of this new animal's name.

It is not quite as straightforward to explain the term 'guinea' in the name. After all, these animals are from South America, several thousand miles from the country of Guinea.

At the time guinea pigs were first introduced, explorers were beginning to bring back many exotic foods, plants, and pets from their trips, and it became common to refer to anything from these far-away countries as being from 'Guinea'. With this in mind, it's simply a matter of adding this to the term 'pig', and the guinea pig is born!

Finally, guinea pigs are also known by a completely different name - 'cavies'. Although this sounds entirely different, it has a much simpler origin. The Latin name for these animals is 'Cavia porcellus'. This is a bit long-winded, so people usually use the abbreviated version, cavy.

Whichever term you use, I hope that this article has helped you get a better understanding of its origins.

Pete has owned dozens of guinea pigs over the years, and has learned a huge amount about them in this time. His website is packed full of useful information, covering topics such as what food to feed your cavies, and the best toys to keep them stimulated and entertained.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Pete_L_Matthews

Autumn is here and new additions to the family

2010-10-15T05:46:00.000-07:00

As the weather starts to turn and the trees start shedding their leaves it feels very much like autumn has arrived.
A couple of new livestock arrivals in the shop this past few weeks, firstly 8 new born hamsters that appeared in the world a few weeks back are growing like mad, getting bigger every day. Mum hamster managed to escape but luckily only into a near by tank and after the little ones were already eating solid food, so no great drama. Nice Syrian hamsters ready for making some children a happy Christmas.

The other unexpected arrivals are 10 hatchling corn snakes, nice looking snakes from a Carolina cross with lots of red in them. A job to get them feeding on de-frost food at first but now they are starting to fatten up nicely. Offered at a bargain price of £45 each in store pick up only.

We have a good stock of dog coats in store now with more to come. A few new lines will be added to the range on the website very soon and some coats have now been discontinued and removed from the site. Prices pretty much the same as last year but of course the VAT will be going up in January so now is a good time to buy.

More updates on the website

2010-10-04T03:59:00.000-07:00

We are still busy adding new items to our website http://www.allpet.co.uk/ and are always happy to add any items that our customers are looking for but are not yet listed. So any requests can be emailed to us or if you are wanting to buy a particular product right now that is not listed on the site you can email us reptile.ranch@virgin.net and we can order it for you if our suppliers keep it.

We have kept the prices down on the site as much as possible over the past 12 months but unfortunately are now having to increase prices on some items, but if you get in quick and order before we get around to it, you will get the item at the current listed price. Good news is postage is still free to the UK

Dog coat season

2010-09-22T15:57:00.000-07:00

Here we are at the end of September already and the weather is starting to change. Good news is the new stock of dog coats are in now with more being added each week, so jump in quick and take advantage before the prices go up and the dreaded VAT increases.

CLICK HERE and HERE to view the current stock list of dog coats and look out for more coming soon. We will be adding the latest styles from Alex Griffiths, Armitage and Danish Design over the next few weeks but if you want to pre-order a particular coat from the above makers or one we don't list email us with your request. reptile.ranch@virgin.net As always the Waggles Flying jacket will no doubt be our best seller again this year, they are so stylish!!

Don't forget to check out our selection of dog beds and vet bed plus basket liners and blankets too, please keep warm this winter and most important keep your pets warm.

Livestock List for Aug - Sept 2010

2010-09-08T04:03:00.000-07:00

Livestock list for Allpet.co.uk August – September 2010

Please contact us if you would like to purchase anything from this list, not all are in stock but are available to order on our weekly deliveries. We can offer a reptile transport service for purchases the cost is around £50 per delivery (UK only). Invertibrates can be posted via normal postal services within the UK. Tel: 01367 244828 email: retile.ranch@virgin.net

PEWTER Corn Snake Elaphe guttata 2009 hatch £199

"Aru" Green Tree Python Python viridis 2010 hatch £495.00

Aesculapian Snake Zamensis longissima 2009 hatch £139

Blue Anole Anolis roquet 4-5cm £85

Gidgee Skink Egernia stokesii 10-12cm £550

Bauers Chameleon Gecko Eurydactylodes agricolae 3-5cm £180

Neon Day Gecko Phelsuma klemmeri 4cm £120

Blue Tongue Skink Tiliqua scincoides 2010 hatch £180

Snakes

Dumerils Boa (Microchiped and with SSC A10's) Acrantophis dumerili 2008 born £300

Common Boa Boa constrictor 2010 born £100

African House Snake Lamprophis fuliginosus 2009 hatch £45

Japanese Rat Snake (Kunashir blue phase) Elaphe climacophora 2009 hatch £120

AMELANISTIC Corn Snake Elaphe guttata 2010 hatch £70

ANATHERYSTIC Corn Snake Elaphe guttata 2010 hatch £70

CAROLINA Corn Snake Elaphe guttata 2010 hatch £70

CRIMSON Corn Snake Elaphe guttatta 2010 hatch £76

GHOST Corn Snake Elaphe guttata 2010 hatch £70

ALBINO REVERSE OKEETEE Corn Snake Elaphe guttata 2010 hatch £82

Great Plains Rat Snake Elaphe guttata emory 2009 hatch £56

Grey Rat Snake Elaphe obsoleta 2009 hatch £56

Texas Rat Snake Elaphe obsoleta lindheimeri 2009 hatch £62

ALBINO Radiated Rat Snake Elaphe radiata 2010 hatch £110

Everglades Rat Snake Elaphe obsolita rossalleni 2009 hatch £65

Korean Rat Snake Elaphe schreki 2010 hatch £76

Ridleys Cave Rat Snake Elaphe taenura ridleyi 2010 hatch £130

Western Hog Nose Heterdon nasicus 2010 hatch £160

Colombian Rainbow Boa Epicrates cenchria maurus 2010 born £82

Brazilian Rainbow Boa Epicrates cenchria cenchria 2010 born £195.00

Grey Banded King Snake Lampropeltis alterna Adult £250

HIGH RED Goins King Snake Lampropeltis getulus 2010 hatch £80

Chain King Snake Lampropeltis g.getula 2010 hatch £62

AMELANISTIC Florida King Lampropeltis g. brooksi 2010 hatch £65

HYPO FLAME Brooks King Snake Lampropeltis g. brooksi 2010 hatch £100

AMELANISTIC Brooks King Snake Lampropeltis g. brooksi 2010 hatch £80

DESERT STRIPED Californian King Snake Lampropeltis g. californiae 2009 hatch £82

ALBINO STRIPED Californian King Snake Lampropeltis g. californiae 2010 hatch £70

STRIPED Californian King Snake Lampropeltis g. californiae 2010 hatch £82

ABERRANT Californian King Snake Lampropeltis g.californiae 2009 hatch £85

Desert King Snake Lampropeltis g. splendida 2010 hatch £55

HIGH RED MOSAIC Florida King Snake Lampropeltis g. floridana 2010 hatch £140

Pueblan Milk Snake Lampropeltis triangulum 2010 hatch £85

Macklotts Python Liasis mackloti 2010 hatch £180

Gopher Snake Pituophis calligaster 2010 hatch £82

ALBINO Burmese Python Python molurus bivittatus 90cm £400

CF Royal Python Python regius 2010 hatch £60

Carpet Python Python spiloides 2010 hatch £195.00

Lizards

Green Anolis* Anolis carolinensis 5-7cm £14

Green Basilisk **CF** Basiliscus plumifrons 10-20cm £45

Desert Collared Lizard* Crotaphytus insularis Adult £45

Leopard Gecko Eublepharis macularius 2010 hatch £34

Southern Spotted Velvet Gecko Oedura monolis 3-5cm £120

Madagascan Ground Gecko Paroedura pictus 3-5cm £32

Green Water Dragon CF Physignathus cocincinus 12-20cm £30

Desert Horned Lizard* Phrynosoma platyrhinos Adult £50

Bearded Dragon Pogona vitticeps 7-10cm £75

100% HET HYPO Bearded Dragon Pogona vitticeps 7-10cm £100

RED X SANDFIRE/SUNBURST Bearded Dragon Pogona vitticeps 7-10cm £87

Fire Skink Riopa fernandi 3-4cm £28

Gargoyle Gecko Rhacodactylus auriculatus 6-8cm £160

FLAME Crested Gecko Rhacodactylus ciliatus 5-6cm £62

Crested Gecko Rhacodactylus ciliatus 5-6cm £48

Saharan Uromastyx* Uromastyx geyri 2009 hatch £120

Chelonia

Indian Star Tortoise Geochelone elegans 2010 hatch £400

Stink Pot Turtle Sternothernus odoratus 2010 hatch £40

Hermans Tortoise Testudo hermani 2009 hatch £200

Horsefields Tortoise Testudo horsfeldi 7-10cm £120

Amphibians

Oriental Fire Bellied Toad* Bombina orientalis Adult £15

Yellow Bellied Toad Bombina variegata Adult £15

ALBINO Woodhouses Toad Bufo woodhousei 1cm £100

Green Toad* Bufo viridis Adult £13

ALBINO Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli 2cm £38

FANTASY HORNED Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli x ornata 2cm £45

GREEN Horned Frog Ceratophrys cranwelli 2cm £28

ORNATE Horned Frog Ceratophrys ornata 2cm £42

Yellow and Black Poison Arrow Frog Dendrobates leucomelas 1-2cm £60

Green and Black Poison Arrow Frog Dendrobates auratus 2-3cm £100

Blue Poison Arrow Frog Dendrobates azureus 1-2cm £130

Golfodulcean Poison Arrow Frog Phyllobates vittatus 1-2cm £67

False Tomato Frog Dyscophus guinetti 3-4cm £29

Phantasmal Poison Arrow Frog Epipedobates tricolor 1cm £49

European Green Treefrog Hyla arborea 2-3cm £18

Japanese Tree Frog Hyla japonica Adult £22

Green Treefrog Hyla cinera Adult £19

Grey Treefrog Hyla versicolor Adult £21

Chubby Painted Frog* Kalula pulchra 3-4cm £14

Budgetts Frog Lepidobatrachus laevis 2-3cm £45

Golden Mantella Mantella aurantiaca 1-2cm £67

Brazilian Milk Frog Trachycephalus resinifectrix 2-3cm £25

Pipa Toad* Pipa pipa 6-10cm £62

Red and Black Walking Frog* Phrynomerus Bifasciata 2-3cm £22

CB African Clawed Frog Xenopus laevis 1-2cm £8

Spiders & Scorpions

Spiders & Scorpions

Pink Toe Tarantula* Avicularia avicularia 4-6cm £22

Red Knee Tarantula Brachypelma smithi 1.5 - 3cm £42

Chile Rose Tarantula* Grammostola rosea 7-10cm £19

Cobalt Blue Tarantula* Haplopelma lividis 4-7cm £48

Trinidad Chevron Psalmopoeus cambridgei 1cm £16

Imperial Scorpion (CB) Pandinus imperator 2cm £9

Other Invertebrates

Purple Jewel Beetle Smagdethnes africana oertzeni Adult £8

Hermit Crab* Coanobita ctypeatus 2-4cm £10

Giant Millipede* Archispirostreptus gigas 7-10cm £9

Deaths Head Cockroach Blaberus craniifer 2-4cm £3.00

Giant Prickly Stick Insect Extatosoma tiaratum 3-5cm £9

Giant Spiny Stick Insect Eurycantha calcerata 3-7cm £6

European Mantid Mantis religeosia 1-2cm £12

Ghana Miomantis Miomantis sp. 1-2cm £12

Bud Winged Mantid Parasphendale agriona 2-3cm £12

Fantasy Mantid Phylocrania paradoxica 2-3cm £12

African Mantid Sphodromantis centralis/lineola 2-3cm £12

Chinese Mantid Tenodera Sp. 2-3cm £12

Dead Leaf Mantid Deroplatys dessicata/lobarta 2-3cm £18

Small animals: Which one?

2010-09-07T08:17:00.000-07:00

Small animals: Which one?

There is no doubt small animals make a fantastic first pet, children find them fun and interesting and even adults melt under their cute looks and behaviour. They are relatively easy to look after and endlessly reward their owners with hours of fun and endless affection, which is what makes them so popular. However, how do you choose what type of small animal is right for you? Ultimately research and contact will be the best way to answer this for yourself, but to help you along the way, here is our quick guide to the most popular types.

Hamsters:

Being small and fluffy as well as having many various coat markings, hamsters are one of the most popular small animal groups. They are often chosen as first pets for children and make playful companions.

Character: Curious and adventurous, fairly intelligent. With the right handling are fairly tame and calm creatures, although will bite if scared or upset. Hamsters are nocturnal and live inside.

Housing: Solid bottomed cage, with either bars or ventilated plastic. Sawdust and paper shreds are used for bedding. Due to their intelligent and active nature they must also have toys in the cage. Must be escape proof. Syrians should be housed alone, although some other species will live together.

Food: Hamsters are omnivorous so can eat a wide range of treats, although they are healthiest when on a staple of dried hamster mix.

Life span: One to three years.

Rat:

Being larger than the hamster and somewhat more active rats make great and entertaining animals. Although not for everyone, their behaviour and large variety of colours makes them very popular.

Character: Highly intelligent, very curious and active. Less likely to bite, but will if annoyed. Can become very tame and can become great companionable pets.

Housing: Large wire cage with at least two levels to allow for exercise. Needs to be solid bottomed and escape proof. Rats are nocturnal and live inside. Can live together if put in single sex groups from an early age.

Food: Omnivorous, they eat a huge range of foods. They do best on a staple of dried rat mix with a variety of treats.

Life span: Two to four years.

Guinea pigs:

Being a larger size, these small animals make great pets as some people find them easier to handle. They are very responsive to their owners and will vocalise during feeding time or when their owners are near, this trait along with their cute looks are some of the reason they are so popular as pets.

Character: Very sociable, clever and active. They can be nervous but with the right handling become extremely tame and will more than often freeze rather than bite.

Housing: They should be housed in a hutch or large cage space, with access to an outdoors run in the summer. In the winter they need to be housed indoors, either in a large cage space or hutch. The cage doesn’t need to be tall as they don’t jump around but they need to have a lot of floor space, as they are active creatures. Soft bedding such as woodshavings or straw should be used. Can be housed with littermates or single sex groups. Must not be housed with rabbits.

Food: Herbivorous, they require a lot of fibrous foods to maintain health. It is best to feed a dry mix specially for guinea pigs and supplement with hay, vegetables and other treats to help wear down teeth.

Life span: Five to eight years.

Rabbits:

With so many breeds and so many different breed characteristics rabbits make truly fascinating pets. It is clear why they are so popular, with their defined personalities and interesting behaviours.

Character: Playful, loving and active. Social but this needs to be maintained to stop them from becoming shy. Companionable if handled well.

Housing: A large hutch, with access to a run in the summer. Rabbits should be taken indoors during the winter. Can be allowed to free roam indoors if done so from a young age and it being safe to do so. The hutch needs to be thoroughly cleaned to avoid fly strike. Can be housed together, space permitting and a male and a female can be placed provided they are neutered. Can also place two does together. Should never be housed with guinea pigs.

Food: Frequent feeding of either a dry mix or a nugget mix formulated for rabbits. This should be supplemented with treats and hay to help wear down the teeth.

Life span: Five to ten years.

Gerbil:

Lively and entertaining, these little critters are a fun pet that makes a fun difference from other small animals. Highly active they will fascinate many owners.

Character: Friendly, inquisitive and social. Very active animals.

Housing: A ‘Plexi’ glass tank known as a gerbilarium is best used as this will allow sufficient ventilation and ensure there are no unwanted escapes! Thick layers of sawdust should be used in the lower half to allow burrowing and digging tunnels. Should be housed with littermates (to prevent fighting) in same sex pairs. They will happily live with mixed sex groups but litters will occur. You should not house them alone.

Food: A dry mix of gerbil food should be a staple, along with various treats. Their diet needs to be carefully handled as they can be susceptible to high fat intake which can cause health issues.

Life span: Three to five years.

Mouse:

Small and cute as well as tame mice make great pets although are probably more suited to older children and adults due to their smaller size.

Character: Happy, playful and active although can be timid or shy at first.

Housing: Solid floored cages, especially built for mice, either with smaller metal bars or plastic sides that they cannot gnaw. A secure lid and soft bedding, much like a hamster is needed. They also require hiding places in order to feel secure. Can be kept in single sex groups or pairs. Males, however, will dispute over territory and produce a musky odour.

Food: Omnivorous, they should be fed a wide variety of treats alongside a staple of dried mouse food. You need to be careful with fat and sugar levels.

Life span: One to three years.

Chinchilla:

Large fluffy and extremely active, chinchillas are good pets if you have the space, they are good for older children and will be loved by all. Their sweet natures nad sociable habits mean they are fascinating creatures.

Character: Very fast and lively characters with a sweet and inquisitive side. Can be slightly timid but usually warm up to their owners quickly.

Housing: Chinchillas need very large cages as they will jump, run and dart around them. A specialised chinchilla cage is best as they have removable trays at the bottom for frequent cleaning. There doesn’t need to be any substrate as they mainly climb but toys, platforms and things to keep them amused are always appreciated. A sand bath that is changed daily should also be available. You can keep chinchillas in pairs or polygamous groups of two to three females to one male.

Food: Chinchillas are true herbivores and as such have delicate digestion, therefore a special chinchilla dry food or pellet should be given. Treats should also accompany this but should be marked safe for chinchillas to avoid giving too much sugar or protein. Hay should also always be available, as they need a lot of fibre and also need to wear down their teeth.

Life span: Ten to twenty years.

Degu:

Lively, social and vocal they love human interaction so make great pets. Perhaps more suited to the more experienced keeper, due to the level of care they require. They do however have a low record of disease, which means they can be very straightforward in their health.

Character: Social, lively, good natured and very curious.

Housing: Their cage needs to be large, focusing on height as they love to climb, much like chinchillas they don’t need bedding although aspen would be appreciated. They also need a sand bath and plenty of toys to keep their active minds busy. They cannot be kept singularly as they are highly social and will not do well with human interaction alone, they need at least one cage mate and will rarely fight. They are active during the day.

Food: True herbivores, they need plenty of hay for their digestive systems. Although degus are becoming more popular, foods for them are not as easily available. Instead you should aim to feed a diet suitable for chinchillas, making sure it is nugget form to stop selective feeding. You also need to avoid sugary foods and treats, as they can get diabetes more easily than other small animals.

Life span: Five to eight years.

Ferrets:

Ferrets are lively and very intelligent, they are active creatures with more complex needs than any of the other small animals and are probably best suited to someone with more experience of pet ownership.

Character: inquisitive, intelligent, active and independent.

Housing: Best put in large wire cages, with multiple levels to allow adequate exercise. They can also be kept in large outdoors enclosures if space permits as well as freely in the house as they can be litter trained. They are social and will prefer living with at least one other ferret, although large groups and un-neutered companions may fight so it is best to keep neutered males and females. They also need plenty of toys or opportunity to use their active minds.

Food: Ferrets are carnivores, so they have largely different diets to any of the other small animals here. They can be fed on a high quality kibble to provide all the protein and fat, some ferret owners will also provide treats such as thawed chicks, tinned meat and raw meats.

Life span: Five to eleven years.

Foods dogs should not have

2010-07-27T07:44:00.000-07:00

Foods dogs should not have

It’s great to feed your pet pooch lots of different foods, after all their diet of kibble or meat must seem pretty boring. However some foods that are commonly given to dogs can cause untold damage to their health. Here are what foods you should avoid and what foods you can give instead. If you suspect your dog has eaten any of these foods in large quantities you should promptly seek the advice of a vet.

Chocolate

Chocolate is commonly given to dogs, but even a little bit can be harmful. Chocolate contains the substance Theobromine, which can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, nervousness, tremors and in large doses can cause death. Different types of chocolate have different levels of Theobromine, with dark being the highest. Cocoa powder and things coated in it also contain high levels of this toxic chemical, however even the tiniest bit can be harmful as the chemical is not easily cleared from the liver and kidneys. This means with each dose, it can build up to potentially fatal levels.

What to give instead: You can buy dog chocs, which are made from safe ingredients and have no Theobromine in them. This makes a safe and healthier option that will keep you and your pet happy!

Milk and dairy products

Some people enjoy giving their dogs milk, be it in the form of ice cream or yoghurt. Although the dog will enjoy it, it’s not the best thing to do. Milk contains the sugar Lactose and while your dog is being weaned it has the ability to digest this sugar but as it gets older it looses this ability. This means the sugar sits in the digestive tract and ferments, producing a gas, giving your dog a bad tummy ache and diarrhoea. While in some dogs this can go unnoticed, many dogs have a high intolerance to such products.

What to give instead: Cheese flavoured treats or even lactose free products, however you should still be careful with these. Some dog treats can be derived from milk but are lactose free and these are a great alternative!

Grapes and raisins:

An unknown toxin in grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure in dogs, although this was only discovered very recently, it is something every dog owner should be aware of. Grapes and raisins can cause vomiting, diarrhoea and if left unnoticed can progress to kidney failure.

What to give instead: If you are worried about vitamins getting to your dog, try feeding a small amount of cooked and cooled peas, sweet corn and carrots to the kibble or meat. Make sure they are cooked or they are of no nutritional value!

Bananas:

People often give their canine companion banana, however this could be fatal for the dog. Bananas are high in potassium and while a dog needs a small amount of this for healthy heart, what he or she gets from the bananas is too much. This can, in severe cases cause heart failure.

What to give instead: As a general rule fruits should be avoided, if you are worried about the condition of your dog you could try giving a vitamin supplement or putting a supplement for dogs on his or her meals.

Citrus fruits:

Oranges, lemons, apples and grapefruit are all main contenders here. They contain a lot of vitamin C which is good for the dog in right amounts. However the amount they contain isn’t good when given on top of a healthy diet and the acidity in these fruits can cause problems with the stomach.

What to give instead: Fruits should be avoided generally but if you are wanting to give extra vitamins to the diet try a vitamin supplement for dogs or mixing cooked and cooled peas, sweet corn and carrots with their meat or kibble.

Onions and garlic:

Onions and garlic should never be given to dogs, in any form. The toxins they contain can be fatal for dogs and are hard for dogs to get rid of, so they can build up inside the dogs system. Signs include vomiting, diarrhoea, dark coloured urine, paleness of the gums and tongue and the whites of the eyes turning yellow. Eating onions regularly can cause severe anaemia. If not gone unchecked, eating onions or garlic can cause death.

Mushrooms:

Mushrooms shouldn’t be given to dogs as they contain toxins that can affect the digestive system as well as the nervous system. Symptoms include vomiting, diarrhoea, tremors, fits and difficulty breathing.

Nuts:

Nuts contain many toxins, which can wreak havoc on the nervous system and digestive tract. Your dog may vomit, have diarrhoea, go into anaphylaxis or have a fit from eating nuts. It can cause death in some cases.

Salty foods:

Salty foods given on a regular basis can lead to unbalances in the way dogs handle minerals and water absorption. This can have a wide range of effects from upsets to the digestive system to having a raised temperature and if left unchecked can lead to sever dehydration and death. Eating large amounts of salt is also fatal and should be treated by a vet immediately.

Sugary foods:

Giving sugary foods, especially if regularly, can lead to obesity and most likely diabetes in dogs. It will also affect your dog’s dental health. Also artificial sweeteners can cause liver failure. These foods should never be given.

Tiger in the park is a softy

2010-07-13T11:20:00.000-07:00

Not exactly a pet LOOK OUT IT'S A TIGER

You would not get this close to a Tiger in any wild life park in the UK, not without a thick plate glass barrier and a man holding a stun gun!!

Check out my other videos on youtube my youtube i.d. is 666GordonB

Rabbit care guide

2010-06-17T04:21:00.000-07:00

A rabbit care guide is an important tool for all rabbit owners for one main reason. Rabbits are complex creatures both mentally and physically.

Unfortunately they are often seen as being quite a simple creature and as such can be entirely accidentally neglected by well intentioned, but less than well educated, folks. It could be that these folks were not quite sure on how best to feed their rabbit or how best to play and have fun with their rabbit. Well, in this article we are going to lay out a very basic rabbit care guide, outlining what you will need to know to raise a happy, healthy and long living pet bunny.

The first thing any rabbit owner should consider is what type of rabbit is right for them. In order to do this you must assess your lifestyle:

- do you have kids?
- do you have a large enough home?
- do you have sufficient time?
- do you have sufficient money?

These are important things to think about because if you have kids it will be a good idea to get a larger breed of rabbit or a large size rabbit. This is because larger rabbits have a more sturdy, muscular physique and so are less likely to be injured by kids. In addition to this larger rabbits generally have a less nervous nature and are therefore unlikely to react badly to excitable kids i.e. kick or bite.

Keeping a rabbit require plenty of time and a large enough home to provide him with sufficient space. Generally you will need at least an hour or two each day to feed, groom, exercise and socialise with your pet bunny.

Money is also required because you will need to provide your pet with everything he needs. Some things your bunny will need are:

- a house... a cage or a pen or a large hutch
- water bottles
- food bowls
- litter box
- hay rack
- nest box
- toys
- grooming equipment such as brushes, flea combs, etc
- food! Rabbits need pellet foods or natural greens or a combination of both. Grass hay is also very important.

In addition to the above considerations you will need to have a good understanding of rabbit care topics such as:

- housing your pet rabbit
- how to groom your bunny
- what to feed your pet and how much to feed him
- how to exercise him and keep him fit
- how to spot health problems
- how to litter box train him and train him to do other things
- how to prevent misbehaviour
- how to interpret his body language and sounds
- how to play and socialise with him

So you can see why it is so important to have a good rabbit care guide and that there are many things you need to know to be a great rabbit carer.

Nathan Alan is the founder of RabbitProfessor.com and the author of "The Ultimate Guide To Caring For Your Rabbit". He is a house rabbit enthusiast and encourages the use of a good rabbit care guide.

Visit him at www.RabbitProfessor.com to find out more about caring for your pet rabbit and grab your FREE rabbit care guide.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Nathan_Alan

Caring For Pet Amphibians

2010-06-15T12:32:00.000-07:00

Amphibians can make unique and wonderful pets, but caring for pet amphibians is often more difficult than many people realize. In nature, amphibians require a delicate environmental balance, and if that environment becomes disrupted, they can become ill and die. It is the same for amphibians that are kept as pets. Keeping their environment stable is a critical task every amphibian pet owner must take seriously.

Amphibians are broken down into three categories; salamanders, frogs and the lesser known caecilians, which are worm like creatures. The most popular pet amphibians are salamanders and frogs, so we will focus on caring for pet amphibians in these categories. In each grouping of these popular pet amphibians you will find more options for a pet available to you than you may believe, as there are over 400 species of frog and 80 species of salamander that can be found in the world.

Your Pet Amphibians Habitat

When keeping amphibians as pets, you must first ensure that you have the proper amphibian habitat set up for your pet before you bring them home. In fact, the most important part of caring for pet amphibians is providing the proper dwelling for them, so you will need to thoroughly research the specific salamander or frog you are getting and set up the appropriate amphibian habitat.

Once the amphibian habitat is set up, you will need to make sure that you are diligent in it's care, and clean the cage the proper way. Remember, just one imbalance in the cage can cause your amphibian to become ill, and it could even prove to be fatal. You must make sure that you have all of the materials necessary to provide your pet amphibians with an environment that is comparable to their natural habitat, so that they have everything they need to survive.

Feeding Amphibians

Feeding amphibians is of course, also essential to their well being. Each type of amphibian requires a different type of food, so when determining which type of pet amphibian to get you first need to make sure you are going to be able to find and purchase the type of food that they need.

Generally, amphibians will require a number of different food sources in order for them to get the various nutrients that they need. Part of caring for pet amphibians is researching the pet thoroughly enough so that you know what these food sources are and can make them readily available to your pet.

Keeping amphibians as pets isn't always easy, but it can be very fun and rewarding. Watching these unique animals grow and thrive is very exciting, and is a great alternative to common pets such as cats or dogs. Popular pet amphibians also make a great pet choice for those with allergies that are limited in the types of pets they can have. As long as you properly research the care and make sure you are providing your pet amphibian with everything that it needs, you should have no problem with your unique pet and can enjoy each others company for quite some time.

Global Pet Village is a worldwide family friendly community for pets and those who care about pets. Our goal is to provide an environment where pet owners can come together and exchange information, pictures, videos, diaries, common interests and useful ideas about their pets.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Cyril_Osakwe

Bearded Dragon Lizard care

2010-06-15T05:22:00.000-07:00

Bearded Dragons - Basic care

Bearded dragons can make wonderful pet Lizards, with fantastic and fascinating behaviours they are often sold as the perfect 'beginner' lizard. However much care and thought should be put into buying one as a pet. As with all lizards, they are a long-term commitment and have specialist requirements, which need to be understood.

Bearded dragons originate from Australia; although many of the Bearded Dragons sold are captive bred, meaning they are generally healthier specimens. The lifespan of a Beardie is usually around 7 years, which is why careful consideration must be put into owning one! Due to their natural habitats they are terrestrial creatures that like to occasionally climb. They are generally docile creatures that show a lot of expression through body language, so they can be fascinating to watch. They are also one of the few lizards that will tame nicely and some can become quite friendly toward their owners, however you should still keep in mind that they usually prefer their own space.

Housing a Beardie

Bearded dragons are endothermic, like all lizards, meaning they take their heat from their surroundings. With this in mind their enclosure needs to have adequate space and placement to allow them to regulate their temperature. The vivarium itself should be around 36 Inches to 42 inches long and of no less than 18 to 24 Inches widthways. The height should be adequate to place decor and allow the Beardie to climb, so a height of around 18 to 24 Inches should be available.

There are several types of vivarium available, from the usual ply board and sliding glass door type to the all glass type. Either is sufficient, however the wooden types tend to keep heat in more effectively and reduce stress as the wooden sides don't create reflection like glass vivariums and create secluded corners for your pet to retreat to. However some glass vivariums come with metal mesh on the top and ventilation on the doors, allowing for better air movement than the wooden types.

Whatever type of vivarium you choose, placement in your home is important and should be carefully considered before buying. The vivarium should not be placed in draughts or next to radiators, not should it be placed in direct sunlight. All these things will change the temperature of the enclosure and this can lead to problems with your pet. It should also be placed somewhere quiet, where there isn't a lot of 'traffic' or noise either from people or household appliances. Lastly, careful consideration should be put into whether the vivarium is accessible to other pets or younger children who may be overly inquisitive! This also brings about the last point, always make sure the vivarium is secured, either with it's own locking system or a traditional 'viv lock'!

Heat and lighting

Beardies require a temperature gradient of around 30-35 degrees Celsius at the hottest end and 20-25 degrees Celsius at the coolest end. A basking spot reaching around 40 degrees Celsius is also needed. Creating this gradient is the key to beardie success as it governs all of their habits and workings.

So how do you create the correct temperature gradient for a Bearded Dragon? Well, it partly depends on the type of vivarium you have. The main tools of heating are a heat mat (regulated with a thermostat) and a basking spotlight (in addition to UV lighting).

The general method for creating this gradient means putting a heat mat under the substrate at one end of the vivarium, it should cover around half of the vivarium floor. The heat mat works on infrared and will literally heat the substrate and therefore your lizard. A thermostat is usually required to control the heat mats output, avoiding it from getting too hot, as the heat mat needs to stay on all of the time. You should also place a thermometer at each end to check the gradients.

At the same end a basking light should be mounted. This will provide your lizard the area of concentrated heat it needs as well as heating the air in the vivarium, known as 'ambient heat. How you mount the bulb will depend on the type of vivarium you have. Glass vivariums presuming they have a mesh top can simply have the bulb and lighting unit stood on top of the vivarium. Some vivariums have special units that can clip onto the top. If your vivarium is wooden you can use a standard light fitment and affix the bulb to the wood, inside the enclosure. Sometimes the wooden type vivariums have these prefitted. If you have this type of vivarium you need to also purchase a light guard that can fit onto the bulb fitment ensuring your beardie doesn't climb onto the light, burning itself.

The wattage of the light also needs to be carefully considered. Generally smaller enclosures require a smaller wattage, 50, 75 and 100 watts are good standards although larger cages may need 150w. It is also important to remember glass will not insulate the enclosure as well as wooden sided vivariums, therefore may require a higher wattage. The best thing to do is to ask your local pet store on the specifics of your tank, going from there you can experiment until you are satisfied. This also emphasizes the need to set up your vivarium and running it for a bit to see what needs changing and so on.

Lastly, UV lighting is needed for Beardies. Without proper lighting your beardie cannot manufacture the vitamins he needs from food. This can cause serious implications for your Beardie. Usually a UV light strip, manufactured especially for use in vivariums, is put at the centre toward the top back of the vivarium, allowing even light dispersal. The light is usually powered by a starter unit, which allows you to power the light as well as mount it. Some vivariums come with them already fitted and some, such as glass vivariums can have special units that fit on the top of the mesh.

The light itself should be around 10.00 UV level, if you are unsure when buying it is best to ask! The light should be replaced around every six months to ensure its UV output is still at optimum levels. To replicate the environment that a beardie is naturally in you should keep both the basking lamp and fluorescent light on for no more than 14 hours. In the winter months this should be decreased to around 12 hours. After this 'day' period you should turn off the fluorescent light and either dim or turn off the basking light. It is generally better to dim the basking light so there is still some heat being produced in the basking area. You can buy a range of timers and dimmers for this purpose although they are not necessary as you can just turn it off manually.

Cage decor for the Beardie

Beardies require only the most basic decor, substrate, water bowl and somewhere to hide and climb. However you may prefer to create a more stimulating environment both for you and your beardie!

Substrate is the most important thing. It should be carefully considered, there are many different opinions on substrate types, so you should generally use your good sense when choosing. It is important to remember the age of the beardie, fine substrates can be swallowed easily and cause impaction in young lizards. You also need to keep in mind how clean the substrate will be, how easy will it be for you to spot clean? Also, substrate should not be more than an inch thick, as this will stop the heat mat from working properly.

Generally people use sand for older beardies, it is easy to clean and looks natural. There are several types of sand, from calcium sand to fine 'repti-sand'. Which one you use is up to you and how well your beardie responds to it.

You can also consider shelf liner, reptile carpet or newspaper, especially for younger Beardies as it reduces the risk of impaction. However it doesn’t look as nice and some people have disputed the cleanliness of such materials, as they can be difficult to clean.

Some people even use ceramic tiles or large slate pieces, although they don't look as good they are easy to clean and heat up rather well under the basking light. However it is important to keep in mind the change to temperature it may cause. As a general rule you should do as much research on substrate and try to decide what you feel is the best for you and your beardie.

After you have decided on substrate you need to now focus on other essentials, like water bowls. The water bowl should be big enough for your beardie to get in but not deep enough for it to not be able to get out again! Some people use large ceramic dog bowls, which are easy to clean. You can also purchase resin bowls, which are also easy to clean and tend to be moulded to look like rocks, enhancing the enclosure's look. It is again, down to personal preference. The positioning of the bowl is important. It needs to be positioned at the coolest end of the vivarium, to ensure the gradient is maintained. You may also want to purchase feeding bowls, in order to contain insects and other foods stuffs.

Another essential is a hiding spot for your beardie. This can be anything from pieces of cork bark and mopani/bogwood carefully and securely stacked, to shaped hides, made from resin, wood or similar materials. This, again, needs to be put at the coolest end of the vivarium as most lizards when hiding prefer to be cool and temperatures inside the hide will rise if put too close to the basking lamp.

Additional decor isn’t needed, but will make the enclosure a lot nicer for both you and your pet. Things such as plastic plants, branches, slate and rocks can be placed to provide areas for climbing, basking and hiding. Be careful not to put live plants in, as they may be harmful. You should also try to buy wooden branches, as they will be free from pests. When placing decor keep in mind that Beardies are can be heavy and so items should be secure and no sharp edges present.

Cleaning your Beardies Enclosure

Having a clean enclosure is very important, dirty conditions will lead to disease and general discomfort for your pet as well as putting you at risk.

It is important you spot clean. When you see 'deposits' or loose skin from shedding you should safely remove it and any affected bedding. If any of the decor becomes soiled you should clean it with a lizard safe disinfectant and rinse with water.

Food and water bowls should be cleaned daily with lizard safe disinfectant and rinsed thoroughly.

You should completely clean the vivarium at least every three months, completely changing the substrate, cleaning the decor and vivarium with disinfectant and rinsing with water.

Feeding your Beardie

Careful consideration should go into your bearded dragons diet, as it will largely determine the health of you pet. Bearded dragons will eat a mixture of vegetables and live insects. If you are not comfortable feeding insects, you should consider if a lizard is the best choice for you as ultimately you need to think of it's health first.

If you are okay with feeding live insects, feeding time can be a fun and rewarding experience.

Firstly you need to understand how much a bearded dragon likes to eat. They have high metabolisms and therefore should have food available for the majority of the time. This can come in the form of mealworms, dried food and vegetables, with things such as crickets or locusts completing the diet. You should never leave insects such as locusts or crickets in the enclosure for a long time as they will nibble your pet, causing annoyance and pain.

You also need to provide fresh water everyday. Although desert creatures, they need water. Some of this is obtained through food although they will enjoy the very occasional misting of water.

When feeding your dragon, it is best to give it no more food than can be consumed within 10 minutes, with the exception of vegetation, which can be left in for the day. Insects should be removed after 10-15 minutes and vegetation and dry foods removed at the end of the day.

A young bearded dragon should be fed on small amounts of small brown crickets 2-3 times a day. Mealworms should be excluded from their diet at this stage. This is the same for young or 'sub' adult beardies. When feeding crickets, they should be no bigger than the size of the gap in between their eyes.

Young Beardies can also be fed on commercial foods, specially formulated for young bearded dragons. This should be fed in accordance to the manufacturer's instructions.

An adult Beardie can be fed larger crickets, 2-3 times a day. They may also be willing to take locusts. New foods can be introduced to the adult Beardie, including mealworms, which can be left in a suitable bowl in the enclosure. Wax worms can also make a delicious treat for your Beardie, however they should be given in moderation, both to stop selective eating and weight gain!

Adult bearded dragons will also love to eat vegetables; spring greens are a particular favourite. Make sure you wash any vegetables you provide, ensuring any pesticides or preservatives have been removed.

You can also feed manufactured dry foods formulated especially for adult beardies and always in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.

Shedding in Beardies

As your Bearded Dragon grows, it will shed its skin. During this time it may be less inclined to be 'active' and may dislike being held. It is important that you don't pull or try to 'help' you pet shed. It is quite capable of rubbing it off on decor items within its enclosure. Unlike snakes, the skin will fall off in parts, so don't be alarmed! If you think it's having trouble shedding you can give it a light mist with some lukewarm water.

Problems you may encounter

Beardies rarely encounter problems if kept properly, however if your beardie does become ill this will help you to know what to do next!

Impaction

This comes from the beardie eating too much or eating fine substrates or other foreign objects, such as sand, plastic plants, small pebbles and so on. Signs include loss of appetite, sluggish behaviour, bloated or discoloured abdomen, hiding away and not passing stools. It can, in early stages, be solved by firstly removing any possible causes, reducing food and bathing for 10-15 mins in warm (not hot) water everyday to encourage the lizard to pass stools and the blockage.

If symptoms persist you should seek veternary treatment.

Mites

Caused by unsanitary conditions, infection from external causes or contact with other infected animals or objects. It is more common on wild caught specimens. Signs include the beardie rubbing on items, scales looking 'lifted' and small brown, white, tan or black specks embedded between scales. You may also see 'specks' running over the surface, particularly near the vent, eyes, mouth and joints. Usually a pre-prepared solution, applied as directed gets rid of the mites on the animal. You should also do a complete clean of the cage and bedding, making sure to soak decor in hot water and buy new bedding. You should also try to find the source of the problem and deal with it accordingly.

Sometimes the problem can be more persistent, in which case treatment from a vet may be required.

Injuries

Sometimes, through climbing or if kept together, fighting, your pet may sustain an injury. A little iodine applied to minor injuries can ensure no infection happens, although it is generally better to seek veterinarian advice. You should always seek a vet's advice for breaks and larger injuries.

Tail/Scale rot

Caused by keeping the enclosure too wet or by keeping the lizard in unsanitary conditions. Symptoms include blackening of the area, softening of the skin and general unhealthy appearance. You should clean the Beardies enclosure and make sure it is kept dry. Because this is an infection a vet's advice should be sought.

Coccidia

This is a intestinal parasite, rarely contracted by captive bred Beardies, however in the case of your pet contracting it you will see sluggish behaviour, diarrhoea, bloating of the abdomen and fluid loss (characterized by 'wrinkly' skin that sticks as wrinkles and appears baggy) You should consult your vet if this occurs.

Metabolic bone disease (MBD)

Rare in well looked after specimens, this comes from ongoing poor nutrition and inefficient lighting exposure (lack of UV) it will cause softening of bone tissue, particularly in jaw tail and spine. It will cause bones to break easily and slow the rate of growth. The only cure for this is usually prevention, which is why it is important to give your pet the correct nutrition. If you have acquired a specimen with MBD you should seek a vets advice.

Impaction in reptiles

2010-06-14T08:54:00.000-07:00

Impaction - what is it and how do I treat it?

Impaction is a condition that affects reptiles. It is a common problem in geckos and Bearded dragons, although can occur in most reptiles. It is when a foreign object that it cannot digest becomes blocked in the digestive tract. It can, if not treated, be fatal.

Causes of impaction

Impaction is caused by swallowing objects that the animal cannot digest, such as substrate plastic plants and unsuitable food items. Most commonly they are swallowed by accident, when the reptile attacks prey. Mostly sand, small rocks and parts of décor are to blame as they aren’t something you’d think your lizard would eat, even accidentally! Giving the wrong type of food at the wrong stages is also a threat.

Preventing impaction

The first line of defence against impaction is prevention. Don’t use fine sands with young geckos or beardies; instead use chunky wood based substrate, ceramic, newspaper or slate that is labelled suitable. Avoid calcium sand with young geckos too; as they will ingest it to get the nutrients from it, unfortunately they can’t fully digest it leading to a risk of impaction. You can supply a small bowl of calcium supplement for the young gecko to dip into from time to time.

Be careful with your décor, especially with young lizards. Quite often the young reptile will mistake the authentic looking leaves for real vegetation! Although most reptile décor is durable enough to withstand this attack, aquarium décor or old décor may not. Checking that there are no bits coming off of plastic plants is a good routine to get into, better still avoid plastic plants all together until your reptile is bigger.

Food items can also pose a problem. Harder foods are often a problem for younger lizards, especially geckos. Avoid black crickets (sometimes called field crickets) and mealworms until the animal is older. Instead feed brown crickets and wax worms, which do not have the hard casing black crickets and mealworms have, which can cause impaction.

How do I know if my pet is impacted?

Usually refusal to eat is the first sign. However this shouldn’t be taken as a symptom alone, many reptiles go off food for periods of time and sometimes it may be down to the wrong environment. So the next symptom is to see if your pet has been passing regularly. If not at all or infrequently you should check the abdomen, which may be swollen, distended, black or blue coloured or puffy. Your pet may also seem sluggish, hiding up and refusing to drink.

I think my pet may be impacted, what do I do now?

Firstly, don’t keep feeding, as the reptile is unlikely to take food. If he or she feels better they might but that doesn’t mean the impaction is cleared and therefore may add to the problem. Secondly you will need to bathe your pet. Take a shallow dish, separate container (or if your reptile is large, even a bath!) and fill it just enough to rest the reptile comfortably in. The water needs to room temperature. Allow it to soak for 10 to 15 minutes; this should encourage the reptile to pass waste and the impaction along with it. You can do this twice a day, but if in a couple of days nothing has happened it may be best to seek a vets advice.

The History of Dog Clothes - How Did Your Dog Came to Wear Clothes?

2010-06-13T06:55:00.000-07:00

Do you know the history of dog clothes?

Dog clothes were first and foremost worn in the military and regulation enforcement regions, in order to save the dog from neighboring atmosphere and assaults. Nowadays, dogs are also used as watchful sniffers in police departments, army and investigation departments. But a dog's chief responsibility is to be a darling to a person or a family. For this basis, dog clothing has altered with time. Dog cloths go an extensive line of attack in defensive mode for your dog. These protect your dog from cuts, scrapes, bruises, infections and bad weather. The foremost meaning is to keep the dog dry and warm. Animals are being dressed for centuries now. But now the meaning of dressing your dog has changed to a great extent. At that time, clothes were used to guard the horses and dogs from outside rudiments and attacks. But now they are a symbol of trend and fashion. There are garments in particular designed for extraordinary events and proceedings such as weddings and birthdays. Halloween and Christmas outfits are some of the most admired festivals during which people prefer to dress their dogs in Santa fashion garment or princess gowns to make them look attractive.

Dog clothes comprise of all sorts of clothes that are limited to dogs. Body suits, dog sweaters, small dog coats, dog dresses, t-shirts, tank tops and sweatshirts are just a few items to choose from. Dog boots, leashes, tags and hair clips are some garnishes that accolade a dog's attire. Other frills and ornaments take in, collars, jackets bathrobes, beds, boots, carriers, raincoats and toys. Dog clothes are not necessarily made for winter time. Buy a dog coat for your dog this summer.

Even big dogs are conservatory of themselves and you could get dog t-shirts with funny sayings or bright colors to show-off your dog's personality. Buying big dog clothes is also another way to demonstrate them your care. Small dog clothes are now the standard and big dog owners don't want their big child stay deprived of them. What sort of clothes look excellent on big dogs? Big dogs look grand in dog t-shirts and tanks. Tanks are much simpler to put on the dog for the reason that there is meek fight with getting their big paws through the sleeves, and tanks are much easier to take off, in addition. But the key point is that it is immaterial what clothes you buy for your dog. They should fit properly and look good. Careful measuring assures that the dog has an easy fit and will take pleasure in wearing the clothing. Your dog should not feel uncomfortable wearing them. If your dog feels slightest of inconvenience, he will become restless or clumsy. Your dog can not complain about the clothes. He will wear whatever you put on him. But dogs have a different way of showing their discomfort. You will, as masters, need to understand your dog yourself. Follow the regulations properly and buy clothes for your dog. Consider things like dimensions, weather conditions, and skin type before buying clothes for your much loved dog.

This author lives in Flemington, NJ with her husband and 5 month old daughter and is an expert contributing author for a luxury dog beds boutique offering variety of pesonalized dog beds and pet keepsakes.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Caroline_Miller

Cat Language

2010-06-09T08:35:00.000-07:00

Cat language

What is your cat saying? What does it mean when your cat waves its tail? Wouldn’t it be great if you could talk to your cat and know what it was feeling? Well, by reading simple body language you can! By taking note of what the tail ears and fur on your cat is doing you can see how he or she is feeling.

Tail carriage

The tail is the most important part in determining the cat’s feelings. It shows many emotions and can help you decide if your cat is happy or not.

Straight up: When your cat comes toward you or another object with its tail straight up, it is showing friendliness, it is most likely a familiar person or object and it is it’s way of greeting in a friendly manner.

Straight up and quivering: This shows extreme happiness. Sometimes this will happen as you greet your cat. Be warned though, this can also denote that the cat is trying to ‘spray’ in order to scent mark territory!

Straight up with a hook: this is a questioning pose. Seen when approaching other cats or unfamiliar people or objects. The cat is prepared to be friendly but is ready to be defensive too.

Straight up and puffed up: A cat holding its tail straight up with it all puffed up is showing anger. It may have been startled, been in a fight or is in a compromising position. It is annoyed and may be aggressive although it is more likely just showing its displeasure.

Straight at a slight angle: if the cat holds its tail straight but only slightly upward, it is feeling unsure. It is prepared to be friendly but also prepared to run away or fight.

Straight at a slight angle, waving: Usually to denote amicable feeling, used if around familiar people objects and it is greeting but not directly or putting too much interest in the person or object. More like an acknowledgement.

Straight out behind: A cat holding it’s tail straight out behind with little movement is showing neutrality. It isn’t bothered by anything right now and doesn’t want to be bothered or to bother anything.

Straight and down: A cat holding a tail straight and downward, with no movement is showing that it is ready to fight. It may display this to other cats, whilst hunting or toward people. Be warned, it’s ready to claw or bite. It could do this during play too, showing aggression toward the toy.

Up and then hanging down: If your cat is holding it’s tail slightly up at the base and then allowing it to hang down loosely it is showing defensive aggression. It is ready to defend itself although it would rather not have to. May be accompanied by a twitch.

Tucked: A cat holding its tail under or flat against its legs is showing submission. It could also be being fearful, but is more likely to run away unless cornered.

Wildly thrashing: If the cats tail is wildly thrashing it is showing an extreme emotion. Generally large, lazy swings of the tail show excitement whilst smaller more rapid swings show anger or irritation.

Gentle swinging: A tail gently and slowly swinging can sometimes mean contentment but careful consideration should be taken to how the cats ears are and where it is as it could also show mild irritation.

Tip of the tail flicking: The tip of the tail flicking could mean it is alert or interested in something. A slow flick shows contentment where a rapid or rhythmic twitch could show irritation.

Ears

Ears also play an important part of showing cats emotions. Not as expressive as the tail, teamed with the movement of the tail it gives a wider picture into what your cat is thinking.

Ears back: If a cats ears are turned back it generally shows aggression. However if the cats ears are upright and back this is confident aggression and usually denotes a challenge. This may be seen during play or toward other rival cats. The more the ears become flattened back and down the more fearful of the situation the cat is, the only way it sees out of the situation is to act fearful or nervous aggressive. This may be seen when the cat is challenged or comes up against something it doesn’t know, like a person or a dog.

Ears out: If the ears are sticking out it shows extreme unhappiness or mild fear. The more the go back the more the cat is feeling threatened and the more likely it is to react aggressively.

Ears right back: Often with a hiss or open mouth this shows extreme fear and although the cat would rather run, it will fight if cornered.

Other behaviour

There are some other behaviours cat show, which aren’t based in fear or aggression but in affection and excitement.

Vocalising: A quick purr or chirp from a cat accompanied by the right behaviour can be a friendly greeting. Sometimes your cat make growl or purr as you stroke him or her, to show contentment and affection.

Kneading: If cats knead you or where they are laying it shows complete happiness and it shows they are relaxed and content where they are.

Pressing with head or rubbing with face: This is a show of affection, they are transferring their scent to you to reinforce the bond between you and him or her. They are comfortable with you and content that you are there. May also be something they do as a greeting, to reassure you are still friends.

Rubbing around legs: For attention mainly, also to share scent, to reinforce the bond between you and your cat. An affectionate display, may also do to other cats and some other household members, such as dogs.

Whiskers: Whiskers forward or flexed shows curiosity or happiness. Whiskers back, shows fear when accompanied by other body language.

Missing Dog

2010-06-09T06:24:00.001-07:00

Missing dog in Oxfordshire UK. 19 month old male staffy missing since 25/03 from Oxford. He is dark brindle, white chest, with a small bit of white fur over one or two toes on back right leg. He isn't neutered and is very friendly. There is a £400 reward for his safe return - no questions asked! Any information please call me on 07769 185 413.

Missing Dog

2010-06-09T06:24:00.000-07:00

Missing dog in Oxford UK