Peugeot 206 @ Naza 206 Bestari

On Maintenance Mode

2011-02-10T00:39:00.001+08:00

Dear All Readers / Info Seekers...

I would like to inform that http://bug206.blogspot.com is on maintenance mode from today onwards. There will be no more updates from me here.

This is solely due to some constrains that I'm having with blogspot content system which limit my thirst for a better web development and maintenance.

Apologize for any inconvenience caused.

Rest assured, I've successfully migrated all the contents into my new Content Management System website.

Future updates will be available @ http://www.bug206.com

See you there!

Bug

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50K Service

2011-02-02T12:50:00.005+08:00

Mileage: 49,318KM

As usual, GeotAuto was the service centre for this 50K maintenance interval. Nothing much has been done to my car from the last service to be shared here the experience (no DIY for the past couple of months).

It was done one day before this year Chinese New Year. I reached the service centre at around 8:30AM. I was there a day before but the queue was long, I've to leave it for almost 4 hours if I want to do it that day.

Mileage registered; short of 600KM

Since I'm early today, so I decided to give them some extra work (money also :( ahahaha) and my car is almost 2 years old. Changing radiator coolant would be a good idea. Furthermore, there is a squealing noise emitted from the front right hand side wheel, more likely from the brake system. Another one for them to rectify.

The front disc rotor

After a 5 minutes of brainstorming with the mechanic, we unanimously agreed to skim the brake pad (the edges not the surface ;)) as brake disc / rotor is not recommended. The latter part is advisable to be replaced only.

Bleeding time

This was the longest time to wait. Roughly 45 minutes wasted on time and petrol.

The bill

The damage for the wallet and a token of appreciation from the oil company. Looks like a smartphone but actually a slide up calculator with clock function.

The coolant part is a bit confusing. Just noticed it after I reached my office. It was written as "Coolant Liquid/1 Liter" and the total cost was RM20. But they poured in a 5 liter pre-mixed coolant. Strange, or is it the actual price for the coolant?

40K Service

2010-09-03T22:07:00.003+08:00

Mileage: 39,944KM

Done at Geotauto, Petaling Jaya. Arrived at 3:45PM and service completed at 4:50PM. 40K service excluding the "free wash" service, did not want to get caught in Pasar Ramadhan traffic jam. Grand total RM409.20, a bit cheaper as I've done transmission lube service in 30K service.

Mileage registered at 39,944KM short of 56KM

Usual diagnostic check, no fault recorded

Here are the parts changed in this service apart from the lube and oil filter....

fuel filter
air filter
spark plugs

Part 1 of the bill

Part 2 of the bill

Out of Juice

2010-07-11T00:18:00.005+08:00

Mileage: 36,630KM
Do It Yourself: Yes
Difficulty: Easy

Today, my car battery was out of juice. I've been using the original battery for almost 16 months. It started yesterday with a single chime and unsuccessfully fire up the engine when switched on the ignition. Today it was totally flat...

The original battery.

Notice the date on self made sticker. My car registered in March 2009. The battery has been in the engine 3 months earlier.

The replacement battery.

The replacement battery is GP-Atlas. A Din 44 maintenance free battery for the cost of RM330. The price tag is in DIN 66 range. The price that I have to pay for a rare battery size in Malaysian automotive scene.

I was not too picky on the brand, anyway, I have another Din 66 GP-Atlas in my other ride. Still good till today, almost 2 years now. Rule of thumb when finding a car battery for me is to buy it from the nearest workshop from my home as it will be easier for me to claim the 12 months warranty (except if I'm stranded in the middle of nowhere).

The workshop owner did asked me what car it is for as he never order this type of battery before. Luckily he managed to source out for me. If anybody wanted a cheaper alternative, a Din 55 is a suitable source which is cheaper but you cannot use the original battery cover thou.

Other Din 44 battery brands that are available in Malaysia are Century and Delkor (happy hunting). Imported brands are Bosch and Varta. Expect to pay a hefty price for the latter (found one in Eneos 1U, a Din 44 Bosch battery is at RM460).

Warranty Claims Marathon

2010-06-22T18:32:00.008+08:00

Mileage: 35,802KM

Today, I went to three service centres to make claims. Three is enough to call it "Marathon". Spent almost a full working hours to get everything back to order.

At 10AM, reached Geot Auto to claim for the most famous bearings failure on 206. Before that, I made a call in the morning to ask them about the stock and to report a new problem discovered last night.

My bearings started to emit the pulsating sound since 31K KM in the odometer. Just imagine, drove another 5K KM, with the turbo spinning sound but without the "kepishhhh"

"Sir, we have stock for the bearings but not the fuel pump"

When I'm there, made another query about it. Still have the same reply in fact they have two customers in the waiting list.

"Do you think Blue Box has it?" I asked the SA. "I'm not sure, you have to go there and make a new claim" He replied.

My new bearings, top and bottom (covered with black plastic). Photo captured at home

45 minutes later, I drove off from Geot and heading to Blue Box. When I reached there, I was hampered with the news....

"Sorry, you have to go to our Batu Tiga branch. We're no longer service and do any warranty claims for Bestari"

Supplied with a photocopy of Google Map, given by the SA. The hunt for the Batu Tiga SC begins.

When I'm there, there are a lot of Bestari, a few Sutera and Forza. Hmmm, this gonna take a while or maybe they can't fix it by today.

Met the SA. A nice lady. Explained to her the purpose I'm coming here but sadly....

SA:"Encik kena buat appointment dulu ye"

ME:"Ohhh ok, bila next available slot? Nak check pun kena buat appointment dulu ker?"

SA:"Next slot hari Jumaat atau Isnin next week, bole ke?"

ME:"Hari Isnin baru nak check? Emmm macam nie laa. Saya call hari Isnin utk confirm stock fuel pump, kalau ada baru saya datang. OK?"

SA:"Confirm kaa fuel pump?"

ME:"Confirmed, Geot dah check tapi diaorang takder stock. Lagipun dalam keta dah bau petrol. Anak saya nie alah habuk, so kena pakai air-cond tapi kalau dah bau petrol dalam keta camner nak pakai air-cond. Nanti apa jadi kat anak saya tak pasal-pasal saya kena dakwa"

I do not know how I can came out with this lame excuse but it worked, plus a couple of eye winks hahaha.

SA:"Camnie laaa encik, saya check dengan store dulu kalau ada saya buka job sheet, tapi mungkin ambil masa sikit. Bole ke?"

ME:"Ok, saya boleh tunggu sampai tutup kedai"

The Service Invoice

The new fuel pump and new oil ring (not visible) but saw it in the part replacement sheet

Arrived at SC around 11AM. The job started around 2PM because waiting for the part to arrive from their warehouse. Plus with some miss communication, I collected the car at 5PM. Supposedly, I can pick it up around 3:30PM. 2 hours wasted.

Alas, there are few PC to surf with, wifi available, Nestle machine for the free flow, Astro (tv leper lagi) to watch... and sofas to doze off so it kinda cool down my nerves.

This SC is wonderful, only the supplied engine oil (Petro...) and restricted access to working bays area would make me think twice to have my schedule service here.

Tomorrow, I will pay a visit to Blue Box Sparepart Department. During the early troubleshooting of the fuel pump leakage, I accidentally broke off one of the fuel pump under seat cover's latch. The cost is RM30 for the part.

Beep... Beep....

2010-05-07T22:15:00.011+08:00

Mileage: 30,480KM
Do It Yourself: Yes (Access to Peugeot Planet 2000 required)
Difficulty: Average to Hard

Just got a hold on Peugeot Security System for my Pug.

The package (image courtesy of ebay UK)

Because of an agreement made between me and the seller, I can't reveal the price in this blog.... sorry guys; but I can give you the information of the seller so anybody wanted to have this system can contact the seller directly (maybe some of you guys might already know where I got this unit).

Anyway, here are the images. Sorry no details DIY steps as I'm on a bit rush to get this job done. The instruction manual supplied was clear enough to have this system up and activated. It is plug-activate-play system.

RTFM... I read the manual thrice to understand on how to install it

In short, Bestari already has the wiring installed from the factory but missing a few connections namely the front hood sensor and BSI wiring. My car already equipped with LED so I can omit the supplied LED. I did a mistake whereby I laid rear boot wiring all the way to rear of the car from the dash and found it is not working. The problem solved by using the pre-installed factory wiring (you can find this connector underneath the boot floor trim near the boot lock anchor).

Front hood switch sensor

Another view

Sorry for blurred images. It was very hard to get a good angle. Anyway, it is a black color switch between the two springs.

The siren

Backup battery is built in the siren housing. Requires 8 hours to fully charge and can supply 1 hour of blast

The alarm control box

Situated just above BSI unit under the dash. The blue connector is from the BSI and sensors and the brown connector is for ultrasonic sensors.

Ultrasonic sensors, on both A pillars

I'm trying to source out another Peugeot part to conceal the sensors. Hopefully I can find it else I have to search it high and low at half cut shops.

Boot lock anchor replacement part, equipped with switch sensor.

I've spent almost four hours to have the system installed. A 15KM journey to my favorite workshop to have the BSI recognize and activate the alarm. It's only a 10 minutes task and FOC (my workshop is not an authorized Peugeot Service Center but he have Peugeot Planet 2000 and much more expert than the service dealer). The system works flawlessly and ....

Peugeot approval stamp

In conclusion, apart from the normal automatic central locking function, these are the additional features provided by the alarm system....

A short beep if the system detected any open compartments when activating the alarm
Alarm will trigger if any open compartment detected (as any other alarm does)
Alarm will trigger if any movement detected inside the cabin
The MFD will not only show "Open Doors", now it have additional warnings "Front Bonnet Open" and "Boot Lid Open"
The LED has additional blinking mode called rapid blinking to inform alarm has been triggered without owner presence
The key fob now act as reset mode if the alarm goes off (case of flat key fob battery), just insert to ignition barrel and switch to ON to reset

That's all, the drawbacks. No beeps when activating or deactivating the alarm, typical continental car and no PANIC button / mode.

30K Service

2010-04-22T14:16:00.003+08:00

Mileage: 29,510KM

Service done at Geotauto, Petaling Jaya. Arrived at 3:45PM and service completed at 4:30PM. Grand total RM465.14 including transmission lube change.

Registered mileage

Continue for more photos...

Diagnostic check

Bill; Part 1

Bill; Part 2

Rubber Blade

2010-02-21T13:52:00.010+08:00

Mileage: 24,612KM
Do It Yourself: Yes
Difficulty: Easy

My rear wiper rubber blade gave away early this week. It was tore at both edges. Instead of buying a replacement unit, I decided to do DIY using wiper blade refill.

Sorry for the out of focus picture

Another view of the ill fated rubber blade

I went to Eneos 1U and got myself the blade refill. The length of the rear wiper is 14 inch and make sure the width is not less than 6.5mm, best if you can get 7.5mm.

The refill, claimed to be made from silicone rubber

To remove the old rubber, just pull at either one of the edge and slide out the whole rubber lining.

Slide out the rubber....

The parts, from the top.... the wiper frame, the original metal brackets, the original rubber and the refill unit

I'm using back the original metal bracket. After swapped the bracket, I just cut out the extra 2 inch from the refill unit. If using the original metal bracket, then it will be easy to estimate the length. Did I mentioned the refill is 16inch in length?

Chop off the extra

Done... waiting to fix back at the car

Viola... it's done. Took me about less than 30 minutes to assemble it and cost me RM12.80.

Wet Light

2010-02-07T18:48:00.003+08:00

Mileage: 23,200KM

Months ago, I've posted a blog about "Wet Tail". Today, I have the same issue again with the other one. Last time it was the right side.

Anyway, the DIY steps are same as previous entry.

You can see the water line inside the light, look at the bottom right corner

Another view of the light

Note:

I use the same steps as previous DIY. Using silicone adhesive sealant.
After a close inspection, I could not figure out how the water got into the light. Seems this case a bit different. The water might got into the light through the waterproof padding, coz it was damp.

Bumper Scars...

2010-02-03T22:28:00.004+08:00

Mileage: 22,815KM

Last weekend, parked my car after done weekly grocerry shopping. Then I noticed something which is not look so good to my eyes. How did the scars end up there, at my front bumper?

The whole night I've been thinking about it, I did not bump to anyone nor hit any pillars (not again!) or curbs. I did not even feel any knocking vibrations through out the whole journey...

The scars (pic without flash)

The scars (pic with flash)

The scratch is quite deep. The impact chipped off the paint and also the bumper fibre. Luckly it did not crack.

Suddenly, wifey broke the silence. She said a rider bumped the car when she was on the way home from office. The impact even ripped off the black plastic moulding but she clipped it back to the bumper after the accident.

And not so funny part is.... the accident happened two days earlier. Tisk.. tisk... tisk...

I think I won't repair the scratch as it is not so obvious. The bumper material is made from a white colored fibre and my pug is quartz blue. The scratch is not so apparent. I will leave it until I'm ready to paint the whole bumper.

Hertz 240 Watt 4 Speakers 1 Subwoofer

2010-01-03T22:37:00.017+08:00

Mileage: 20,850KM
Do It Yourself: Yes (Some parts may need professional help)
Difficulty: Average to Hard

Happy New Year!!!

Just one day after new year, I began to think of upgrading the interior of my Pug particularly on audio. By far, this is the most challenging DIY to date, but I managed to do it within the weekend.

I'm in love in car audio since I've own my first car. I've learn a lot, some from the professionals, others by trial & error basis.

Anyway, for my Pug. I've decided of "SQ" setup. This is the most challenging setup in car audio because it is more on Sound Quality, clarity, sound balance through out the entire sound frequency (we are talking a big range here from 20Hz to 20kHz). Another setup called "SPL" (Sound Pressure Level), this is more on raw power and the main objective is how loud you setup can produce before audio clipping, quality is second here.

The drawback on SQ are...

Expensive components involve.
Hard to tune but once you hit it, shortcut roads are not in your option anymore.

Hertz ESK165 System

Before choosing Hertz, I went a lot of audition on other brands just to get the best value for money (and promotion, this is the jackpot), namely.... (all of the audition was based on my ears and what was available at the dealer at that time. I'm not auditioning their demo car as this is unfair)

Macrom - Italy, good vocal but lack of mid bass. I own one of the M2 5" series and still having it in my Kancil.
Mohawk - Malaysia, good value for money but it is more on SPL, lately their products able to tune to SQ but I'm still skeptic on the performance.
MB Quart - Germany, very harsh tweeter.
Dynaudio - Germany, very well known to SQ community and too common.
Rainbow - Germany, not very much option. A nice SQ.
Sinfoni - Italy, hand crafted and not very much option. A nice SQ.

Why I chose Hertz....

I've got promotion at that time.
Not too common.
Manufactured by the company who produce a well known Audison amplfier, Conection accessories etc.
Very good mid bass and well balance soft sounded tweeter.

I still have plenty of upgrade plan, this is considered as part one because I only have Hertz front components. The system was matched with my...

Two years old Clarion APX4240 amplifier (purchased it from Eneos 1U).
Four years old al cheepo subwoofer (the box was given to me by my friend as he accidentally fried the voice coil and unable to get the replacement. Luckily for me, I've found 8" bass speaker on sale).
Peugeot RD3 head unit.

For this setup, I laid a one time installation using 8AWG grade cable for the power and ground and 18AWG grade cable for the speakers. The is no RCA output from the head unit, so I've to use the speaker level input. Furthermore, the stock head unit does not have remote lead to turn on the amplifier. Until I found a good way to solve this issue, I will use my cigarette lighter 12V feed as the remote lead signal temporarily.

My simple setup diagram

The Hertz box

For 12VDC feed for the amplifier, I tapped directly from the battery. Well it is not directly on the terminal, I'm using the relays and fuses box. With the cover, it is well hidden from the plain sight.

The relays and fuses box

The cable was laid beside the battery all the way to the firewall. If you notice, there is an extra rubber gourmet which is just nice for the cable to pass through.

The 40 amp fuse tube and firewall entry point

A view behind the glove box compartment. The cable was laid along the door sill to the boot

Ground point. If you wonder where is the location, it is on the left side of the boot under the trim, just below the parcel shelf

The remote signal feed, tapped from the cigarette lighter, I'm disabling my lighter function at the moment

The remote signal cable path beside the hand brake lever all the way to rear bench

The speaker output from the head unit was directed to amplifier. Then, the output from the amplifier was connected back to the original wiring to drive the speakers. This is speaker level input method. All of the wiring connection was done using heat shrink tubing, much more reliable than the pvc tape or block connector. IMHO.

The head unit wiring

All the speaker cables are routed behind the instrument cluster, then downward at the A pillar to the door sill. The cables are laid along the door sill using all the factory supplied wiring harness.

View at the fuse / BSI area

Door sill at the driver side

Temporarily, the amplifier was not properly mounted in the boot. Plan to change it later.

Clarion APX4240

I'm using two method of amplifier gain adjustments. Mathematical using multimeter and ears approach. Since I do not have oscilloscope to be able to tune perfectly. It will be done up to my satisfactory level.

Mathematical approach...

Get the optimal speaker output voltage in AC by getting the square root of RMS power of the amplifier x the speaker impedance. In may case, it was 15.5 volt.
Connect the multimeter to the speaker output of the amplifier. Set it to 20VAC range.
For front component, I'm using 1000Hz test tone recorded at 0dB, for sub is 50Hz test tone.
Flat out the bass and treble; turned off the loudness.
Crank up the head unit volume to 3/4 of the maximum volume (which is 22) and increase the amplifier gain to get 15.5 volt.
Note: For my setup, I've to turn down the volume to 1/2 as 3/4 yield a 22VAC before gain which definitely a clipping.

Ears approach...

After done the above adjustment, I'm using a few audio CDs to fine tune the sound staging and subwoofer level.
It is a mixed music from Celine Dion (A New Day Has Come), Ella (A Journey Beyond...), Search (Memori Hit Rock Otai), Awesome 80's Disc 3 compilation, Metallica (Black); M. Nasir (Terbaik M. Nasir - the best album to test full frequency of sound production; rich of orchestral instruments) and a few track from IASCA Test Audio.
Finally, the setup was done with 65Hz highpass for the front components and 65Hz lowpass for the subwoofer.

My subwoofer, need to get 12 inch after this to feel the very low frequency

The rear view of the 6.5 inch Hertz speaker driver. I've also done soundproofing on all of the 4 doors (this was done at the shop prior to my audio project) using STP Material (StandartPlast)

The tweeter mounted at the original bracket

Although the tweeter looks small, it is actually same as the factory fitted tweeter. The original tweeter looks big because of the casing. The white connector is an aftermarket connector, you can have the casing from any electronic outlets.

The rear view of the tweeter

Hertz supplied with a lot of tweeter mounting kit to cater all kind of installation. The one I'm using is direct replacement of OEM mounting. There are flush mounting, surface mounting and wedge mounting with 30 and 60 degrees angle.

Door view before assembling the door card.

The mid bass speaker was mounted on a spacer as there is not enough depth to fix the speaker. The passive crossover was taped to the door membrane. A few cuts was done at the door card styrofoam before fixing to accommodate the crossover.

That's all from now. To be continued...

Update (10/1/2010):

Reuse the original sponge lining (which is glued together with the OEM speaker). No more excessive door card vibration.
Changed the mid bass speaker cable to 18AWG, originally using supplied tweeter cable.
Changed both tweeters polarity as it were out of phase.
Changed the speaker spacer / adapter from MDF to plastic, more robust and fit nicely.
Rerouted ground and power cable termination points to minimize cable tension.
Downgrade the fuse rating from 40AMP to 20AMP, adequate for current amplifier requirement

20K Service

2009-12-14T15:02:00.004+08:00

Mileage: 19,371KM

Since I've no morning meeting or appointment today. I've decided to do 20K service on my pug.

Short of 400KM to 20K

My last service was done at KL Volcare, Ampang. Today, I would like to try another service centre which is nearer to my office, preferably in Petaling Jaya or Shah Alam area. Apart from BB in Glenmarie, another well known service centre (which also carry Total lubricants (a must for me)) is GeotAuto at Jalan 227, Petaling Jaya (if you can find Jalan 222 then you can find this place).

This service centre is more popular amongst Peugeot old timers. Anyone who like to pay them a visit here is the Long/Lat of the location...

N03 6.001' E101 37.890' (Garmin), or for MalFreeMaps users with custom POI, just key in "GEOT" keyword in the POI search menu.

GeotAuto main entrance

Reached GeotAuto at 10:30AM, not many cars today. Straight away met Mr. Sultan, Service Manager and prepare the work order.

Draining the engine oil

The first part of the bill, notice the mileage written in the bill. Maybe a miss communication at the counter

The second part of the bill

Job finished at 11:30AM.

As a conclusion, I'm satisfied with their workmanship and most importantly attitude. They are very friendly and willing to chat with me during the whole service period. If you need to rest, there is a customer waiting lounge, not so grand compare with BB but sufficient to have a short nap and coffee break, a few places for nicotine break and if you feel curious about the car, you can wander around the service bays and chat with the mechanics. All of them, I believe is more than 30 years old and quite competent in Peugeot cars.

Dismantling The Front Door Panel

2009-10-11T12:36:00.004+08:00

Mileage: 15,998KM
Do It Yourself: Yes
Difficulty: Easy

It is time for me to open up the front door panel on my car. I noticed something missing when assembling the front door panel when my car was sent to do bodywork last month.

Well, we need these tools to do this task....

Torx T20 driver
Flat screwdriver
A piece of cloth

Start off by removing the tweeter cover.

Carefully pull the top and bottom part of the cover. Watch out for the cables

Using Torx T20 driver, unscrew two screws behind the tweeter cover and on the door panel near the middle of the A pillar. Refer to this link for the rest of the process.

There are three screws and one inner handle cover that need to be removed from the panel

This is the missing part

Another missing clip, I've total of two missing clips on each of the front door panel

These are the clips, cost me RM0.60 each

The view after the door panel removed

To remove the speaker, use T20 driver. No need to remove the sponge unless you wanted to change the speaker. The speaker is secured by four screws

The speaker mounting view

Speaker label

Inner view of the door, nothing much to shout about

Refitting is the reverse of the removal.

Accident Free... Naaaah!!!

2009-10-03T19:37:00.008+08:00

Mileage: 15,315KM
Do It Yourself: Nope
Difficulty: N/A

"Accident Free", we always heard this term when dealing with used car. Actually, the full terms on the paper would be "Low Mileage, Service By Authorized Service Centre, Accident Free, Original Paint, Lady Owner etc.". I always encountered these words in all used car dealers, seem they have the same template for the windscreen notice.

Well, my car won't have the "Accident Free" term anymore. The term only lasted for about 7 months before been ripped off by a 2 and the half feet parking pole. Duhhhh, why the security guard erected the pole after I parked my car. After my brother Raya open house, I just drove off from the lot and the pole hit the pillar area between the front fender and the door. The side sill was pretty bad though.

The damage side. The yellow and red colors are from the pole

View from rear

View from front

Top view

The next morning, I sent my car to the workshop. The boss said one week and will cost me three quarter from a thousand. Well, slightly higher than my next year NCD but I trust him more than the insurance workshop panel; and minus all the documentations and the leg work to do the claim.

Today, exactly one week. I rang the Boss and asked him about my car. He said it will be ready at noon and "you punya kereta serupa original". Well, how original it would be?

What do you guys think? If you look closely, you can see my reflected image

A close-up view

View from rear

Top view

Complimentary work given by the Boss, repaint the rear black plastic moulding

The warranty sticker. I've been given 8 years warranty for the paint, workmanship and anti-rust. A little short than 15 years warranty for my another car (he also done my other car)

Overall, I'm satisfied with the workmanship. Although there is a slight flaw but it is unnoticeable. The paint color is 99% match. I you look at it on bright light and less than 10 inches, you can see the darker shade of the new paint. Anyway, I won't bother about it much because sooner or later (maybe another 4 - 5 years), I will respray the car anyway. The new paint warranty is more than Naza warranty hahahaha and the quality of the original paint is... doubtful.

Wet Tail

2009-09-12T12:12:00.009+08:00

Mileage: 14,915KM
Do It Yourself: Yes
Difficulty: Easy

Good day, a nice weather today for a DIY (I'm living in apartment, rain is the worst enemy when I need to do something with my cars).

Early this week, it was rainy and windy here in my area. I've been driving my other car for a quite sometime and when I had a chance to check my Pug, here is what I found...

Water ingress into my tail light (can you spot my ghost image?)

I rushed to the nearest hardware store to buy a silicon adhesive to remedy the problem. If I'm going to lodge a warranty claim straight away, afraid that I might have a mini aquarium at my Pug tail when the claim approve. Maybe, if my first repair attempt prove unsuccessful, then I will visit BlueBox for a claim.

Another view of the ill fated tail light

Ok guys, here are the steps to dismantle the tail light. You have to follow the same ordeal even if you just need to change one light bulb.

Undo both plugs and pull the side trim downward. You can use the floor mat to hold the side trim

Pull the wiring from the socket (it is a bit hard since you can't see the locking ping, just keep pressing it). Then unscrew the black wing nut

A full view of the inner side of the tail light

The black colored material surrounding the bulb cover is the waterproof seal which is made from styrofoam. That is the only thing to prevent water from entering the boot, just imagine!

A close-up view of the tail light wordings

Rear end view of the car, you can see clearly here which area the black styrofoam suppose to cover

A view after the styrofoam removed from the light

If you wanted to change the light bulb only, just release two locking pins on both side of the centre black cover, then pull outward and you can see three bulbs. After that, just reverse the process for the installation.

On my left hand, there is a locating peg / pin. Make sure you did not break this as this will be the only thing to hold the light onto the side of the car.

I would say that the build quality of the light is somewhat not up to "conti" par. Looks more equivalent of those "Made in ROC" kinda plastic. I'm not sure how durable are the pins, locating peg etc. on the light, it might break off after a few years down the road. If I'm not mistaken, the MK1 has a better tail light material quality.

Start from the top middle of the tail light, work slowly along the edge

I'm suspecting that I've a gap somewhere at the top right corner of the tail light because of a few drops of water came out when I shake it.

There are at least three type of silicone easily available in the market. The black silicone which is more popular for repairing housing roof, automotive windscreen etc. The white silicone which is more popular for repairing wall tiles, wall gaps etc; and the one that I'm using is the clear silicone. It is more suitable for glass or clear plastic. Make sure you have a good adhesive type of silicone which will stick on to the gaps easily.

I just leave about half of inch at the bottom of the tail light as the breather hole

Overall view of the tail light after the sealing operation

I need a few bright days to remove the water from the tail light so that I can test the solution. Hopefully it will cure the problem else I've to meet the SA to get it replace.

Bladder Transplant (Part Two)

2009-09-04T15:39:00.007+08:00

Part two of the DIY project. Actually, it was done yesterday. Took a day leave as waiting for next weekend is a bit too long. I can't afford to have my car dismantled for a long period of time, afraid that I might forget which screws or bolts go to which nuts.

Here is a video of me checking (aka QA) the system. It was done today morning after I spent some time to bleed the air from the radiator system yesterday evening.

Here are a few photos snapped during the installation process.

Air distribution unit with new sponge linings

Rerouted wiring and make good

Dashboard installed

Additional equipments in place including the centre running console

That is all for this DIY. Now I can have sauna in my car.

Bladder Transplant (Part One)

2009-08-31T14:18:00.014+08:00

Mileage: 96,000KM
Do It Yourself: Yes
Difficulty: Average and time consuming

Salam Ramadhan. Well it almost a month and two weeks without any entry. Kinda busy a bit with daily tasks. My Pug still roar with RON95, but since first Ramadhan, it becomes official car for my wifey as the main transport to work daily.

Although I'm stuck with daily tasks but my weekend still free from anything apart from household chores. Moreover, the Pug has no problems so far (touchwood), and it also has another 6K KM to go before my next service. Emmm... why not doing another DIY project...

Today, the patient is my other car, my "First French Mistress"; well the Pug is the second and it kinda petite. Remind me of "Gabrielle Solis"; the first is like "Bree Van de Kamp" classy, perfectionist, cold but full of hidden agendas.

My first french car is Renault Laguna, Quasar (the first distributor was Federal Auto, then Quasar and currently TC Euro) imported around 200 units. Out of these only 20 units are V6 and I'm owning one of them (used unit, registered in 1996. I can't afford to buy this car "new" anyway, the price tag was around RM200K that time). So far I've only saw three units of the same model running around Klang Valley.

Enough for the introduction, lets start with the project. The Laguna has digital auto climate aircond. A year ago, I had coolant leaking somewhere in the engine bay. Sent to workshop and they told me it was the connector for the heater matrix. They said they could not get the part and bypass was the only solution.

"Kawan.... U bukan duduk Genting atau Cameron... kasi buang laa itu heater. Nanti aircond lagi sejuk wooo tarak heater..."

Decision made and I need to use the car at the moment (mind you, I did not have Pug at that time :)).

Well, what they said is true. The aircond is much colder than before but too cold that make my climate controller haywire. Too cold that I seldom use the aircond at night especially in heavy rain else mist will appear at windscreen. After much of study of the system, now I knew that auto climate AC need heater to regulate the temperature according to the setting.

Arrghhhh, need to get the replacement. So... the journey begins. Sorry guys, no step by step instructions because if I'm doing that, it will be another Haynes manual for you guys hahahaha.

Got the original replacement unit from France (bought it thru my agent) for RM1,600 (The original quoted price from "ehemmmm" was around RM3+++. Waited for almost 4 weeks to arrive. Amongst all the French cars in Malaysia, Renault hold the record for the most expensive parts price. You need to do some legwork to find a good bargain.

Another tip, French cars are the worst car when it comes to aircond design. Too many hidden screws and to access it, you must be flexible enough. Being a left hand drive car originally, the right hand drive suffers a lot of weird under dash design. A simple heater change, for example my car, requires a dash out job. It will cost me another at least RM500 in labor. Might as well do it myself.

Enough talks.... where are the pictures?.... Ok... here are they.....

This is driver side, the protruding bar is the steering shaft. Everything else, I threw in the bonnet

This is passenger side, messy wires need to rearrange after this. On the left most of the black plastic casing is the blower area. The middle boxy is the aircond evaporator sometimes called cooling coil

This is the centre console (used to be), the missing part will be the air distribution unit that comes together with the heater unit

This is the air distribution unit, the heater matrix is at the bottom (slightly ajar from it position)

So... I've spent almost the half day just to get this damn unit out of the dashboard. The heater matrix can't be removed because it was blocked by the aircond evaporator unit (it was my earlier attempt to get it out without the dash out job). A dash out job is necessary to get this thing out. I've to remove everything start from the centre running console, audio equipments, steering wheel and airbag etc.

My lovely dashboard, resting on the rear seat, bonnet filled with other things

This is the the heater matrix

Another view of the heater matrix

The heater comes together in one set of three pieces.

the matrix
the aluminum pipes
the heater connector

My problem was the hairline cracks found at the engine side of the connector (marked by red box), but I have to buy everything as they did not sell that part only. Bugger!!

This is how my car looks like (sorry for the quality, zoomed from second floor apartment). The white Kancil is now retired from daily tasks and it role was taken over by my Pug

That is all from now, to be continued insyallah next weekend for the fixing... Now I'm cleaning out the air distribution unit, it so dirty and need new sponge linings to fill up the joint gaps.

1st Service @ 10K

2009-07-13T16:33:00.003+08:00

Mileage: 9297KM

Late blog posting... almost forgot about this. Been busy for the whole week.

Anyway, the service was carried out on Saturday, 4th July, 2009. It was divided into two parts (I mean the service visit)...

First visit... I went to Peugeot Authorized Service Centre in Ampang since they are the only SC has Total lubrication.

The service went smooth except on the last part. The engine oil and filter exercise was good and quick but suddenly, I saw one of the mechanic face showed something unsatisfactory. The expression led me to investigate to find out the problem. I can't go to the car since I'm baby sitting my son but from what I heard there was a problem with the engine oil gauge (the one in the instrument meter).

Although they filled up the engine oil, the gauge still showed zero and flashing. After a couple of engine starts and so on... they decided to do some checking on the ECU. 20 minutes later they met me and informed the situation. They can't get the gauge to work.

They suggesting me to have another visit on Monday to do software download (they need the spare key also for the programming) and further check on the sensor. It might be the software glitch or the sensor is faulty. They also mentioned that I'm not the first case. In meantime, they will reset the ECU.... Oh No!... there goes my gearbox setting.

Paid the bill, damage to the wallet was RM149.00. Grab they keys and start the car. Surprisingly, the gauge works! It showed the engine oil level correctly. Emmm... strange.

Second visit.... On Monday, I drove back to the SC. Informed them that the gauge is working fine. Since it works, no need for them to download the software but I ask them to reprogram the gearbox cause I've been driving with a tall 2nd gear for the past two days... Cannot tahan maaa...

Took 10 minutes to calibrate and off to my office after that.

My verdict after 1st service.... No performance gain, same as before. The only gains (car performance) was after the gearbox reset, that was... only for two days.... After that, back to square one.

Wardrobe...

2009-06-15T17:25:00.008+08:00

A bit out of DIY topic...

I've one question. How to transport a 180cm tall and 48kg in weight wardrobe using Peugeot 206?

Two rules...

Ample space for the driver to drive the car.
None of the wardrobe parts or pieces are fix outside of the car, all of the pieces must be in the car for the whole journey.

Today, I went to Ikea to get a new wardrobe for my son. Anyway, after paid the item. I quickly walked to "Home Delivery" counter for delivery arrangement. Sadly, they will only deliver it the next day, I'll be out of town.

Then, my wife teased me. If you believe in European car that can squeeze everything although the size is micro, this is the time to test it. OK, I took the challenge just to prove the fact.

Below are the images on how we moved our wardrobe.

Full label view

Rear view, after removing bottom passenger seat (which is on right hand side) and rear top shelf (which on the left hand side)

Rear left view, removing of bottom passenger seat is necessary to fulfill the first rule, no need to remove the rear headrests and to have the rear bench folded flat on the car floor. Both front seats act as side padding

Front passenger view. The wardrobe sits nicely on the rear bench although in the picture it looks like resting on the centre console

By doing this, I managed to save RM65.00 of delivery cost. The goods is Ikea brand so the packaging is flat and nicely fit inside the car. I'm not sure of the packaging method if you buy from other furniture stores.

Suddenly, we have a two cockpit car. A bit awkward for the first few minutes as we are separated by the box.

I managed to have a fuel stop at the nearby gas station. There was a group of Perodua sales persons. At first they did not notify us but as I'm about to finish the fill up. They stopped and stared at us, only two things I can think on what was lingering in their mind.

My pug was filled up to the brim which is about RM76.00, which is more than the "Myvi"
I can stuffed a 5.9 feet wardrobe in the car and able to close all the doors and carrying 2 persons with an ample space to enjoy the new cockpit than the "Myvi"

Why I mentioned "Myvi" twice here.... because they are selling "Myvi SE" at that time. Hahahah

Inheritance

2009-06-07T21:55:00.004+08:00

Mileage: 6770KM

Today, I went to my hometown as usual on weekends, not every weekends... at least once a month. The only difference for today was I'm driving my Pug, considered today is the first time I'm bringing my lion back to my hometown.

"Ehhh.... you're driving a Peugeot?" the first question from my father.
"Some sort" I replied.
"Here, keep this..." my father gave me a blue box. Looks familiar to me....

Here is it... wonder what is inside the box?

Gold painted front grill emblem

I still did not believe that my father still keeping the emblem. If I'm not mistaken, the emblem was bought in 1985 when my father owned a Peugeot 505GTI, the last model of the 5 series. Quite a looker during that era.

So... our trend of changing the emblem actually was started a long time ago. The only difference... there is no Naza. Hahahaha

Another image of the box, showing the part details

Now... where shall I put this on my car???

(The Sound) Gone with The Wind

2009-05-29T15:31:00.005+08:00

Mileage: 5513KM
Do It Yourself: Yes
Difficulty: Easy

Finally, I managed to sort out the knocking sound emitted from both of my front doors. The main culprit is this tiny little bugger...

The little bugger called "Door Lock Anchor (DLA)" (not sure the exact name, but DLA kinda appopriate)

I've spent almost an hour to do this DIY, I was in my mechanic workshop and try to kill time waiting for Friday prayer. Actually, the main intention was not to solve the sound issue, it was merely to adjust both of my front doors. The doors was not properly align to the car body since it rolled out from the factory. After aligning both doors, the knocking sound magically disappear. It maybe because of the incorrect alignment, the doors somehow vibrates especially when driving over yellow stripes.

I'm sorry caused I did not manage to snap any photos of the misaligned doors. However, if anyone wanted to do this DIY you'll need...

Torx T-30 screw driver
Marker pen
A very sharp eyes

I need the marker pen to make guides for the DLA (as shown in above photo, notice the small black dot). The reason being because of I could not find any markings on my car.

To loosen and tighten the DLA is an easy task, but to align the door is the most time consuming. You have to repeat the same task all over again to get the door right and also countless time of opening and closing the doors. Another note, we need to use our biological precision tool which is "our eyes" to check the alignments. Bear in mind, the DLA can move up and down, in and out from the pillar. If you moved it too far up or down, there goes your door also.

Below are set of photos that can be used as tips to align the door.

To align the depth of the front door, use the rubber linings or door top edge line as the guide

We can do the same method to adjust the vertical alignment of the front door

Another view of the completed task

Note:

Pay a careful attention regarding the depth. If the door closes too deep from the rear door, it will introduce wind noise when driving.
After aligning the doors, you may feel a slight resistance when pulling the door handle and closing the door need a little bit of force to slam it. It is the trade off in either to have an easy opening and closing doors, or a properly align doors.

My Car was Stoned

2009-05-23T17:23:00.016+08:00

Mileage: 5172KM
Do It Yourself: Yes
Difficulty: Easy

"Pada 22/5/2009, jam lebih kurang 3:30 petang. Saya memandu kereta bernombor WPA XXXX jenis Peugeot 206 aka Naza 206 Bestari dari Parit Sulong ke Pagoh melalui Jalan Dusun Damai. Tiba-tiba seketul batu telah melayang lalu mengenai cermin hadapan kereta saya.

Kereta saya bernombor WPA XXXX mengalami kerosakan seperti cermin hadapan dan lain-lain kerosakan yang belum tahu lagi."

Windshield picture taken by "Sarjan Bertugas"

Lets cut the craps. Actually, no police report lodged and the "Sarjan Bertugas" is a fictional character :)

Anyway, the event, time and location were real and the pictures taken in this post were snapped today when I'm ready to do the DIY. First time I accessed the damage was 2KM away from the accident scene since there was no place to stop the car (the roadside was to deep to pull over).

The car was hit by a stone at about golf ball size and since there is no crack or chip on the windshield, I just drove on but the unease feeling made me decide to have a brief stop and check the damage. The stone was flown from a lorry, I managed to see the stone coming before hitting the car but it was damn fast so I can't swerve it.

I'm considering myself lucky because...

The stone hit exactly on the plastic moulding.
If the stone is a bit to the left, I will have a crack windshield.
If it hit to the right, I will have dented pillar.

Then, I just continued my journey to Kuala Lumpur. During my journey, I made a phone call to BB Glenmarie thru Peugeot Careline. Asked the sparepart department for the replacement plastic moulding and surprisingly they have the stock. (Just as I mentioned before, if you wanted to buy something from them, sure they have the stock. If for warranty claims.... you know what I mean).

Today, I went to BB and reached around 9:20AM. Lots of customer today, as usual, it is Saturday. Asked for the parts and they quoted me RM140.00 for the right hand side. Take note, the price for the left hand side is cheaper by RM10.00. Don't ask me why? I'm still puzzling, although both part are equally same, maybe they restock it on different day. I just bought the part and I'm not sure how much they will charge for the labour if you ever wanted to have it fix by them.

Below is the rest of the pictures...

Close up picture of the damage, the red circle is the scratch on the windshield. It is not a crack

Another close up from the side

To remove the roof plastic moulding, I need to unscrew the only screw that secure the plastic moulding to the roof. Another note, some of 206 Bestari will have push on clips, mine are screws.

The location of the screw

View without the roof plastic moulding

Make sure you do not loose the plastic cap on the rear roof (red circle)

View after the job done

If you look closely, you can see the scratch on the windshield from the picture above.

Somebody did mentioned to me (in my chat box) on how dirty and rough were my roof mouldings early this month and he even told me on how to clean it. I just replied that I was lazy enough to do it. Considering the efforts from him, I should praise and thank him for the notice hehehe. Gee..., If I'm following his advise, I might not have this accident. Anyway, the damage done. Instead of cost me less than RM10. Now I'm RM300 poorer (I bought both right and left hand side because of the heavy discoloration on one of the part (if not, instead of Alex, my car will be Martin, one stripe black the other faded to white)). Arghhh...., to whom it may concern, we should have TT someday. Page me.

Note:

Alex and Martin are the characters from Madagascar animation film.
Please forgive me if I'm taking someone else stock and SC tell him / her that there is no more stock if he / she claim for the warranty or the parts were meant for one of the warranty issues.

New Rubber Donuts

2009-05-17T15:59:00.006+08:00

Mileage: 4202KM

Last Friday, I received a call from Blue Box Glenmarie. The SA informed me that one of my five warranty claims has approved which is the wobbly and harden tires. The sad news was... I've to come on Sunday at 10AM to replace all the donuts. I even called them twice to make sure weather it is Saturday or Sunday.

"No Sir, the appointment is at 10 on Sunday, today is Friday, tomorrow is Saturday. The day after that Sir."

"You mean, this coming Sunday?"

"Yes, are you ok?"....

Gee... too many tire claims made them open on Sunday just to entertain the demands.

Below is one of the donuts fitted on my car, guess the date of manufactured...

It was made on sixth week of 2007

The size of the original donuts (Goodyear NCT5)

Reached BB 5 minutes after 10AM. Met the SA and I was informed that the job will be completed in one and the half hour and they have to drive the car to another workshop around 1KM away.

There are also other 206 owners having the same agenda as mine today. I think around 10 owners showed up.

Well, 1 hour plus free time. Nothing much to see or do here (waiting lounge). Even the internet broadband connection was off. Junior busy with his PSP playing Ben10, wifey reading some newspapers and sometimes laid her eyes on the LCD TV, watching the TV programs.

Myself... be a bad kiddo... I've lots of free time to caress the 308 Turbo (NZLine Edition) and 407 (pre-facelift version). Spent a whole hour, in and out without anyone disturbing the mood. Hahahah

"Sir, you car is ready..." Cehhh, potong stim betul laa SA nie.

Manufactured on tenth week of 2009

The new size on Falken ZIEX ZE912

Well, my verdict. I felt the car has less acceleration compared with the old set. It may be psychological effect, but I've a silence ride now, not totally but better than the old donuts.

Thus, I've to postpone my rims upgrade project for at least two years. Anyway need to shift tender loving car budget to another ride.

Top Windscreen Weather Strip

2009-05-02T12:06:00.003+08:00

Mileage: 3072KM
Do It Yourself: Yes
Difficulty: Easy

I was lucky that Naza Gurun did not "forget" to install my top windscreen weather strip. But I was unlucky because they installed it with an offset to the left thus, I have 1cm gap between the top weather strip and roof plastic moulding on the right. Thanks to them, I have 1cm of windscreen glass exposed.

And thank God there is no leak from the windscreen (touch wood, I need jati wood now, much stronger). Okay, need to fix it. No need tool for this task. Just pull it out from the edge of the windscreen all the way until it break away.

The top weather strip, pulled half way.

When I was reading a few articles about cars, I always stumble upon writing said that Audi cars was built by millimeters. Guess what, our Pug also been built by millimeters. The weather strip was just nicely measured, leaving no extra on both side. It only gives you at most 2mm on both side to be clamped by the roof plastic mouldings.

The 2mm left after adjustment, notice the water and dust marks, that was the original offset, 1cm underneath the roof plastic moulding.

Note: I'm not responsible for any top windscreen weather strip loses / stolen because of this guide. The weather strip is not glued to your windscreen or car chassis. It was merely clamped by the windscreen gap.

Arghhhh Gaps...

2009-05-02T10:49:00.005+08:00

Mileage: 3072KM
Do It Yourself: Yes
Difficulty: Average

Actually, it does not matter much to me when I noticed about it but after comparing with other 206 Bestari, seems that my front grill have huge gaps on both side of it. Duh... what a %^&* about the CKD quality.

The gap on passenger side (LH)

The gap on driver side (RH)

Time to get my hand dirty again to fix those nasty gaps. Many of you might wondering why I need to fix it myself, just drive to SC and claim it under warranty. Well... the reasons are:

It only take roughly 20 minutes to solve it.
You can learn a lot when dismantling the front grill.
If you drive to SC, they will prepare the necessary documents (30 minutes) minus the waiting time (varies), then will refer to mechanics for early assessment (10 minutes), then to spare part department for the parts (20 minutes), then the job will commence (30 minutes).
If SC does not have the spare part, then you have to wait until God knows when for it and everything refer back to Gurun.

Now, we need to prepare the tools for this DIY. You need...

Torx T30 driver.
Torx T25 driver (optional, only use it if you wanted to do sub DIY in this posting).
Adhesive (super glues preferred, to fix those "oppsss, I break it again" thingy).
A very small and delicate hands (optional :) ).

The top part of the front grill.

We need to remove the top part of the front grill. Remove it by pulling out the centre pins of all the plugs (red circles).

The clips that hold the bottom part of the top grill.

Then, we need to release six clips that secure the bottom parts (three on each side). It is a bit hard thou... but it's doable.

If you have the tool no. 4 (please refer above), then it will be easier. You can release the clips through the rear section of the grill or in the gap between the grill and the bumper.

After all the clips are free, then you need a bit twist and turn to pull out the top part of the grill. The boot lock is giving a problem.

Using T30 driver, undo both screws (red circle).

The third screw is hidden behind the front emblem.

The lower part of the front grill is secured by three screws, two clips that are attached to the bottom of the both headlamps and four clips that secured the both side to the front fenders (two on each side).

Two of the four clips which are responsible for the gaps on my car, replaced all of them.

The clips cost me RM2.00 per piece and I sourced it from Glenmarie BB.

Sub DIY, to remove the front emblem, use T25 driver (angle driver preferred) and remove the screw, no need to remove the lower part of the grill thou, it is on top of the third screw.

Note: Make sure you have the plastic cover on top of passenger side (LH) headlamp. This is the part that prevent water from entering your air filter hose which is situated underneath it.

When finished replacing all the clips, the fixing steps are by reversing the above orders.

The driver side (RH).

The passenger side (LH).