PhenomenalhairCare

Black Celebrities with "kinkier" Black hair

2012-02-23T12:48:00.004-08:00

This picture of Bobby Kristina Brown is from the February 27, 2012 People magazine. She is the daughter of Whitney Houston and Bobby Brown. This is a beautiful picture of her. On a separate note, it looks like a "sew-in" weave. Whitney Houston's pictures of her in her final days of nightclubbing seemed to showcase a "sew-in" weave as well. Dionne Warwick's hair at Whitney's funeral was a mixture of gray/white roots and brownish highlights. Cissy Houston's hair at Whitney's funeral was beautiful; however, it looked to have some commercial hair integration present as well.

Actually, as I look at 90% of the Black celebrities from Queen Latifah to Gabrielle Union to Jennifer Hudson to Angela Bassett, everyone is wearing wigs and "weaves."

Part of the reason may be to avoid damaging their own hair or is it that "Black hair care products" just are not working for Black celebrities with kinkier "Black hair?"

Stars like Paula Patton and Halle Berry do not look to have kinky hair and generally are icons for beautiful hair.

I mention all of this to say that no matter how much wealth one has - maintaining "kinky Black hair" is very difficult. I have purchased countless products over the years, and I still feel that the beauty industry is a long way from meeting the needs of real Black women.

The bigger struggle is that kinky Black hair is not typically acceptable in corporate America so going "natural" really is not a reasonable answer for many.

I have met hairstylists who believe that some Black hair just does not grow long. I do not agree with them, but women with kinky Black hair must stay away from demi-permanent and permanent haircolor. Using a mild strength relaxer and allowing it to sit longer may also a better option especially if touchups are needed every 6 weeks.

It is all a work still in process. Stay tuned.

Hair Makeover using the Gluefree Quickweave Method

2012-02-21T18:07:00.000-08:00

Hair Makeover by Benita Blocker. My hair model pictured is a first time client. She had been using permanent haircolor on her soft hair; so we are going to give her hair a rest with a new protective style.

I was excited to give this classy lady a new look right before CIAA Tournament Week arrival into Charlotte, NC. To achieve her "after" look, I molded her naturally soft, curly hair down with Nairobi Setting Lotion, Salon Exclusive Designing Foam, NuExpressions Styling Gel and eventually, the Morning Glory Gro-Protect Solution.

We used three different brands of hair all in the colors of 1b/27. The 8" Sassy brand was used at the back and sides. Rodeo Neo Body Curl through the top. MilkyWay Short Series was used to circle out the closure due to the thinness of its weft.

None of the hair used was expensive. So I am not recommending the hair . . . I had this hair in stock, and I figured "let's use it!"

The Neo Body Curl hair was very soft with a lot of movement. The Sassy hair used in the back was cut down to about 4 to 5 inches. The fullness of the Sassy hair stopped at about five inches. So the 8 inch hair was a stringy 8 inches, but a full 5 inches.

My model went from a natural fro to a "diva" bouncing bob! This hair is going to have to be rolled at night to keep the curl in it.

As I Am products linked to makers of KeraCare

2012-02-21T17:14:00.001-08:00

A fellow British blogger (My Long Hair Journey) highlighted "As I am" natural haircare products last week. I was in shock that Avlon Industries was the owner of this product line. Avlon makes brands such as KeraCare and Affirm relaxers.

According to the As I Am website, Chemist/Dr. Syed recognized that so many women were doing their natural hair at home that it was a good business move to launch a product line that can be sold directly to the public in the various beauty supply stores.

I found the AsIAm products in our local Sally's Beauty Supply store. Cost range is $16.99 to $24.99 in Sally's Beauty Supply. We will see if people buy at this price point at a Sally's Beauty Supply.

What's interesting is that the KeraCare Natural Textures line that is sold in the hair salons is around the same price. If Avlon is cutting the hairstylists out of the market, then why is the new line of products still relatively expensive?

AsIAm products are now being sold internationally. There are some product reviews on the Internet.

I must admit that I was a little disappointed. It seems that Avlon is trying to get in; where they fit in. They want to increase revenues by cutting out the salon level. I suppose that it is a smart business move. The makers of the AsIAm products show "Salon Commodities, Ltd, North Lake, IL" on the jar instead of Avlon Products.

Avlon is not the first beauty company that wanted to bypass the salon professional. Nexxus and other lines have gone mainstream as well.

Cheap Hair Review

2012-02-19T18:55:00.002-08:00

Looks familiar? Did you get sucked in to? For $10 to $15, you get three bundles of 8" hair. Pretty picture right? Well, the hair only lasts for a week or two. It is so thin and filmsy that it will not hold volume once it is applied to the head for quickweave. I have quite a few packages left from a few years ago.

The good thing is that the hair is only 8 inches long so it does not fall past the shoulders if that. I would imagine that if it was any longer that it would tangle into a "hot mess."

It is not advisable to cut this hair into any other style. Just apply and wear the curly style as long as you can.

On a separate note, I recently discovered that this hair is perfect for creating a "closure" circle. The weft is thin enough and filmsy enough to manipulate into a circle and use heat put a hard bend in it. Excuse my hand in the picture. My hand butter did not kick in. Smile. Hopefully, you can see how thin the weft is.

Curl Pattern Theory by Benita Blocker

2012-02-19T16:54:00.000-08:00

After working with so many different hair textures and curl patterns and scalps, I have been trying to figure out how to simplify how to deal with hair. Yeah, I am going deep with this article. It is all just my theory from my brain. I did not read what I am about to say anywhere. It is just my conclusions based on my observations from my practice, but here it is . . .
Pictured is curling ribbon. I purposely cut each piece to be equal in length.

Next picture: I ran a pair of scissors down one of the pieces of ribbon repeatedly. Probably about four or five times. Each time I ran that scissor edge down that ribbon, the ribbon got curlier and curlier. As you can see the same length ribbon shrink about 75% in length? Hard to believe that both pieces of ribbon are the same length. Right? Doesn't look like the same length when one ribbon is curled all up. Right?

So you are probably guessing how this ribbon is relative to a hair strand. Well, you are looking at Type 1 straight hair to a Type 4 kinky, extremely curly hair in the form of a ribbon.

My theory is that as the hair grows out of the scalp, some of our hair follicle roots are closer to the surface of the scalp, and as they come out the edge of the follicle is acting like a scissor blade causing it to curl as it grows out.

For those with follicles farther away from the scalp surface, the hair emerges less curly and more straight.

Those whose roots are closer to the scalp (i.e. kinky curly) are probably more sensitive to relaxers. Burning can come very quickly. Scalp damage and thinning from the relaxers can also be more likely because the scalp is being exposed to relaxer touchups more often per year than someone with less kinky curly hair. Plus the root of the follicle is closer to the scalp surface making the root more vulnerable to intense damage from the relaxers.

If the hair strand is coarse and kinky curly then stronger relaxer strengths are being used to soften the strand and smooth it out. The scalp exposure is greater because the roots are curling immediately out of the scalp.

Looser curl patterns grow away from the scalp with a wave or sometimes little kinky curly, but it does not curl back on itself.

Hair that curls back on itself is usually considered a z pattern or a 4c curl pattern.

Over the decades, I really do not think that the relaxer manufacturers have had this curl pattern in mind. With recent trends of women going naturally, kinky curly, they have been forced to recognize the intensity of curl patterns that exist out there. With this said, I wished they would make more relaxer instructional videos showing speed relaxer touch-up service on ultra- kinky hair.

Some stylists prefer using the rattail comb for relaxer touchup application for kinky curly hair. I had not picked up this habit because I thought that it looked a little "ghetto." However, I may have to really re-examine whether the rattail comb can give more control and speed for those with curlier textures.

In the meantime, I still love using the sprushes.

I know that this article is very scary and discouraging, but sometimes the truth is not always pretty. I am saddened by this article because I prefer to give you a solution with any potential problem. Unfortunately, I do not have any easy answers.

Am I saying that sisters with kinky-curly hair need to discontinue relaxers if they want to keep their hair on their head? I do not know. What I do know is that extremely kinky curly hair in its natural state is generally not considered "corporate" or European enough for most professional office jobs.

What I also know is that truly relaxing extremely kinky-curly hair is forcing that hair 180 degrees in the opposite direction where looser curl patterns are not so far away from being straight to begin with.

Is the answer full sew-ins? or protective styling (i.e. wigs) for the kinky curly professional woman? I really do not know. Everyone has to answer that question for themselves.

DVD Review: Sexy Hair Metrik 2010 Spring Collection

2012-02-15T17:54:00.000-08:00

This dvd highlights Sexy hair's version of a long haircut and a short haircut. Between the two models pictured here, which one do you think is the long haircut versus the short haircut? You probably guessed it. The model on the right is considered a "Long haircut." However, the long haircut is still in my opinion a short haircut with very little versatility. It seems to be a short bob with a side "rattail."

The Short haircut featured is very versatile and fun! I only liked the short haircut on this dvd, but even it is not on my top 10 haircuts to try.

The biggest lesson from this dvd is to keep your fringe and top hair long and versatile for styling purposes.

Salon hoppers: Words of Wisdom

2012-02-09T13:11:00.000-08:00

Recently, I ran into a hairstylist originally from Tennessee. She said that she likes living in the metro Charlotte, NC area, but as far as hair was concerned -- there are a lot of "salon hoppers." I had to laugh because she is right. People just hop, hop, hop from one chair to the next. It is frustrating to many hairstylists. Many single, professional hairstylists who want to enjoy some of the finer things in life have moved on to larger cities where there is more of a "social butterfly" demand plus more disposable income.

The seasoned salon owners know that our beauty industry has been in a decline for a solid five years or more. Smart salon owners with a large overhead sold their salons about three to five years ago nationwide.

Hair is a practice just like a doctor, attorney, and dentist. A client can go to a celebrity hairstylist and pay $500 for a relaxer service, but if the stylist does not perform relaxer services on a regular basis then the client may find that she could have gone to the "hood" and got the same look for $50.

This does not mean that the celebrity stylist is not good. It just means that stylist and the client were not a good match. Just like all doctors are not a good match. Lawyers are not all a good match. You get the picture.

Also, on a separate note, loyalty is important. Oprah has stuck with the same hairstylist through thick and thin. We all have seen Oprah's hair go through some highs and lows. Michelle Obama is sticking with her hairstylist as well and you know even she has had some high and lows as far as hair.

Clients looking solely for great "style"-they need to find someone who has the same style that they are looking for and the same hair texture and go to that hairstylist for that particular style.

Otherwise, if a client is looking for a hairstylist that cares about her individual hair texture, and the stylist goes to continuing education classes voluntarily to constantly improve their practice, then that is when you find a hair stylist that is a partner.

I have never met a perfect hairstylist. Those who are too closed minded to learn from others are the scariest hairstylists to me.

Also, as a seasoned stylist, I have learned if you talk negative about another hairstylist then you cast doubt on the whole hair profession. We all have the same state issued hair license. When I hear bad things about a hair stylist, I can usually figure out what happened without talking to the stylist. If the stylist is overworked or hungry, then they/we may make a mistake. They/we are human.

If you do not want a sleepy doctor performing surgery on you, then you do not want to be the last person of a 15 hour work day if you need a hair chemical. Mistakes will happen. Stylists must learn to schedule breaks even if it means charging more and booking less clients. I could go on and on about the hair industry, but the real salon scoop is to get to know the hairstylist beliefs, respect her pricing, understand loyalty, and give feedback. See if you can work with the stylist. Most of my clients have their own practice or business - they know that I work to find solutions and all I Do is hair and write about hair.

Finding the right hairstylist can be as simple as going to a "safe" "hole in the wall" establishment.

I have included a quick chart comparing hairdressers to doctors and attorneys. We all are regulated by a state Board. We all are in a practice where practice make perfect. We all can concentrate on a specialty such as colorist and haircuts.

Where hairdressers differ from doctors is that we typically do not accept insurance and there is no co-pay. It is totally out of pocket. Also, many clients expect hairdressers to "nail" it on the first visit; where doctors just keep you coming back for a new prescriptions until they find something that works.

Where hairdressers differ from attorneys/lawyers is that we typically do not clear a six figure salary. We can not raise pricing without losing some clientele.

Most medical and dental procedures have had multiple price increases. Hair service pricing in general have stayed the same for the last 20 years. Yet, beauty supplies have gone up. Gasoline has gone up. Housing and transportation has gone up.

For hairstylists, the passion keeps them in business. I just noticed another local salon/spa was running a flier promoting everything from "weight loss" plans to facials to "waxing" to "botox" to "massage" to "laser hair removal." "Haircuts" were the least mentioned service. No color service nor nail services were mentioned at all. I was totally blown away. This particular salon was known as a full service salon/spa/boutique. It now seems to be steering toward more "beauty and wellness." Probably a good idea. "Styling" can be so visually "subjective." Facials and massages are a "feel good" or not opinion.

Also, on a separate note, a few years ago, the Ratner company sold all of the hair salons in SC and NC to the Regis Corporation. Remember the "Hair Cuttery" turned into "Famous Hair?" Also, Salon Cielo also sold their NC and SC hair salons to Regis Corporation.

Between salon hoppers and the "family focused" lifestyle of the South, the hair industry in the South will continue to be lower paying than the more metropolitan areas of the United States of America.

Hair Review: First Lady Michelle Obama

2012-02-04T15:07:00.000-08:00

Photo credit: More magazine October 2008 (Historical photos and flipped hairstyle)

Clearly, the beautiful, First Lady Michelle Obama has a type 4 curl pattern judging by her beautiful afro in her graduation picture. (source: More, October 2008)

Clearly, during the months surrounding the Inauguration of her husband, she wore her hair very sleek, straight, and with a lot of movement. The ionic flat iron was more than likely used to achieve these looks of uninhibited movement. (source: People magazine, Special Oscar Guide 2009 Inauguration Trendsetter photos)

However, at what cost? As my followers know, I am totally against the ionic flat irons because of the long term damage that they cause. I had been following Michelle Obama's hairstyles for years because I knew that if she continued the flat iron hairstyling that she would be continuously fighting breakage and potential shedding. Photo credit: Flipped hairstyle photo came from More magazine, October 2008.

Photo credit: People magazine March 9, 2009 (Pink outfit), Better Homes and Gardens magazine August 2011 (yellow sweater), Ladies Home Journal magazine September 2010 (bluegreen dress), More Magazine February 2012 (red outfit).

She can select updos and other protective styling to allow the hair to grow out, but ultimately, as long as she continues to be styled with an ionic flat iron, she will not stabilize past her current length which looks to be chin length at the side burns area.

During the late 2008 and early 2009 timeframe, her side burns area was below chin length and in a bob hairstyle.

The length of her hair in bluegreen dress (September 2010) is the same or possibly longer than her length in February 2012 (More magazine) in red attire. In summary, a year or more later and her hair is the same length or shorter and possibly thinner. It looks to be layered more than her traditional bob hairstyle. Layers can give thinner hair more body.

Many people do not want to believe that the ionic flat iron is causing damage because it takes potentially years for the damage to show up.

Also, the flat iron manufacturers market the flat irons for shine, smoothness, and repair. However, when the damage from extended flat ironing over the years finally presents itself, it will be an on-going fight until the damaged hair is trimmed away and the ionic flat irons are no longer used on the hair that is not as damaged.

Michelle Obama's hairstyle is neat and beautiful, but clearly she has been losing length. This may be on purpose or possibly not. I am offering food for thought. Pictures are worth a thousand words.

Photo credits: Entertainment Weekly magazine Special Oscars Guide 2009 (Inauguration year photos), More magazine October 2008 (Historical photos and flipped hairstyle) , People magazine March 9, 2009 (Pink outfit), Better Homes and Gardens magazine August 2011 (yellow sweater), Ladies Home Journal magazine September 2010 (bluegreen dress), More Magazine February 2012 (red outfit)

Would you use this brush on Kinky hair?

2012-02-03T07:00:00.001-08:00

At first glance, you probably are thinking this brush is not for kinky curly hair. It looks like a porcupine. Right? Well, I have started using more boar bristle and mixed bristle flat and round brushes on kinky hair to smooth and straighten it during my blowdrying. Guess what? It works better than the Denman brush! The vinyl bristle hold more heat and the boar bristles help with giving more tension as you gently work the curly hair straight. The boar bristles help distribute the hair's oil, moisture, and shine serums. With this particular brush, I can crush it with my hands without any pain or sticking.

CAUTION: 1) Test the brush with your hands first to determine the roughness or Softness of the brush. If the brush feels like you are going take the skin off your hand, then no -- do not use on kinky curly hair.

2)If the brush is soft enough to use as the one pictured below, then blow dry slowly with an ionic blowdryer. Careful not to use too much tension too quickly. You really need to be able to see what you are doing. Keep straight partings as you go slowly and gently through each section of damp hair.

3) For relaxed hair, get about 50% to 70% of the water out of the hair either by towel blotting and sitting under the platform dryer for about five minutes or rough dry it with the handheld blow dryer and no attachments.

4) Soaking wet relaxed hair, a brush, and a blow dryer is a recipe for disaster. Please detangle and rough dry the hair first from the roots to the ends.

Wig Review: "It's a Wig" brand

2012-02-01T18:33:00.000-08:00

"It's A Wig" brand is one of my favorite brands for over the counter purchase. It is definitely the brand that I ask for first! Pictured is me in their synthetic lace front wig. Style: B. Morning. The top picture shows full length. I cut off some of the length in the bottom two pictures.

If you have been following this blog, then you know that I just published a protective styling article. So I did weigh my wig as part of my quest to protect my own hair from the wig being too heavy.

I tucked all the hair in the cap inside out and weighed it on my food scale that I keep in the salon to weigh hair. It weighed over five ounces! I immediately started thinning it out until I got it to just under five ounces.

This wig does have the monofilament in the top! I loved it! The cost was about $40 US Dollars. I did not try on the wig in the store because most wigs with a monofilament give a very natural look. Plus I trust this brand. The lace front is a hard, inexpensive lace-like fiber. Carefully, not to rough up your own hair while wearing.

Full Wigs with Monofilament

2012-01-30T05:36:00.000-08:00

A monofilament gives the illusion of a scalp and gives natural volume and lift to your final look. Wigs with a monofilament should have a circular inset. The monofilament can be various sizes.

In the picture attached here, the wig is synthetic with a monofilament in the bang and front area. I started cutting out the combs from my old half wigs, and I actually sewed the comb band into this full wig. I like the monofilament look plus the comb band to keep it from moving on my head!

Wigs inspired by Katy Perry and Nicki Minaj

2012-01-29T12:41:00.000-08:00

I just saw these wigs in the Aldo Accessories store in Northlake Mall. $25 and only a few left!!! You can look like recording artists Katy Perry and Nicki Minaj in an instant! Talking about impulse buy! Just having a little fun! LOL!

The Color Bath: Benita Blocker's version

2012-01-28T17:25:00.001-08:00

Hair by Benita Blocker. As promised, pictured is my previously highlighted client with my version of the "new" color bath. I used Nairobi semi-permanent cocktail of Sierra Brown and Mahogany layered on top of my favorite moisturizing conditioner at this time. Heat processing was about 30 minutes.

The color rinsed out very easily and seemed to close the hair cuticle in order to give it a smoother finish. I used an all boar bristle round brush to distribute the hair's natural shine after rough drying it 70% dry.

The client had a lot of volume and movement in the hair. It was "blow in the wind" movement without being "blowing away in the wind." It was a healthy, weightless finish in which my client was very pleased with.

I also performed my version of the "natural black" color bath on a second client on the same work day. The final finish was phenomenal.

The clients are loving the new 2012 options, and I am too!

NOTE: I will try to add more pictures to this article as I can. All clients are receiving the traditional stove and marcel services. No flat irons.

February 4, 2012: Hair by Benita Blocker. I completed another color bath using the Nairobi Marigold semi-permanent color and the traditional stove and marcel. Marigold is "yellow-gold."

Also, the color baths should not be used to make damaged hair look healthier. The color baths are designed to enhance already healthy hair. So doing a color bath on dry, brittle hair can lock out moisture. The hair needs to be moisturized and healthy before sealing it with the direct dye from the color bath.

February 22, 2012:
Nairobi "pure black" semi-permanent color was used on my client with the black hair. It is a nice, natural, shiny black. Not jet black. Client had a wine colored permanent haircolor applied at home prior to getting the pure black color bath. I still do not recommend relaxer and permanent color with coarse, overcurly hair.

We will continue with moisturizing conditioners in order to keep the hair soft. My main goal is to showcase the true color of the "pure black" color.

Shedding: Long hair strand loss

2012-01-26T19:33:00.000-08:00

So you are experiencing shedding? In the fall, some shedding is to be expected. Also, one can shed 100 strands or more a day.

So what to do if you feel that the shedding or long hair strand loss is abnormal?

According to Design Essentials, their Stimulations Super Moisturizing conditioner can help stop the shedding. I believe the scalp tingling from this product goes a long way with deeper penetration into the scalp.

Essations has a moisturizing tea tree maintenance line as well. The conditioner/conditioning is more important than the shampoo. Any clients nervous about abnormal shedding can definitely benefit from this treatment.

Michigan Hair Stylist: Rob Willis International

2012-01-26T18:36:00.000-08:00

I first met Rob Willis about five years ago at a hair show in Orlando, FL. I bought his "Refresh your color skills" dvd and a flat iron holder for the belt. As my followers know, I no longer endorse the flat irons. I have seen too much damaged hair everywhere I go.

But enough about flat irons! The DVD was an excellent buy! Rob Willis is indeed a visionary. He is a "thinking" hair stylist. He is definitely an educator and a colorist.

The funny thing about DVD's is that sometimes you buy them, and you are not ready to receive all the valuable information disclosed in it. However, years or more later, reviewing old DVD's again can be a breath of "fresh air" without travelling great distances to a class.

So four years later, I am reviewing Rob Willis' color Refresh DVD when he gave the coffee pot example about hair being transparent. I had always heard this but never truly grasped the visual.

So Rob describes in this dvd a clear coffee pot full of coffee. So you would see "brown" coffee but if you decide to pour out the brown coffee and put pink kool-aid in the coffeepot. You will probably then see pink kool-aid. Now if you want to change the color of the clear coffeepot again, then you would need to remove the koolaid in order to put another "flavor" or color into the coffee pot.

So everytime you need to change the color, then bleach/lightener or artificial pigment remover is needed in order to "empty" the pot in preparation to fill the pot with another color. This analogy to hair was right on time for me!

In addition to the coffeepot example, Rob Willis kept it real about the state of our beauty industry. He really stayed leading edge!

The other important topic on his DVD was about the "color bath." The color bath was essentially sealing the hair with semi-permanent color or "cellophane" color. I have actual done more color baths layered on top of conditioners lately, and I obtained wonderful results. This was one of my reasons for reviewing this DVD again.

The "color bath" idea had been embedded in my memory from the first time that I reviewed the dvd years ago. It did not seem healthy then because I was thinking that the color baths sealed out moisture. Our hair needs moisture. However, if you layer the color on top of a moisturizing condiitoner such as KeraCare Humecto, then the result are phenomenal with moisture sealed in.

The "color baths" can take your finished look to the next six figure income level.

Give me some time . . . I will be asking my clients for pictures again over the next few weeks.

DVD Review: Fire and Ice Volume 3 by Stars Weaving and Replacements

2012-01-25T20:15:00.000-08:00

First of all, the model in this dvd has type 3c to type 4a hair. The model is overcurly, but her curl pattern reminds me of a texturized 4c curl pattern. So the model is kinky, but not overly kinky.

Now, that we have this information out of the way, "Fire and Ice: The Transformation of Natural Tresses Volume 3 featuring Tajuana A. Hughes" dvd was overall a good investment. However, it is not the answer for those trying to straighten virgin type 4c curl patterns.

It was a good refresh on using the hair steamer as well as pressing/silkening of the hair as a separate step from curling/styling of the hair.

I am no longer a fan of the flat irons so the use of the flat irons through the silkening phase as well as the styling phase was overkill for me.

As for as the blow-dry phase, it was a good instructional video on using the Denman brush.

So overall, "Fire and Ice Vol. 3" was a great video and worth my investment.

Kimble HairCare by Kimberly Kimble

2012-01-25T19:33:00.000-08:00

This picture of Kimble Haircare was taken in SuperTarget store in April 2011. According to the CurlyNikki forum, the Bounce Back Curl Revitalizer delivers soft, second day hair. Many natural women seem to love this Curl Revitalizer; however, they also said that the Brazilian Nut and Acai Berry shampoo and conditioner did not meet their needs. Most said they returned the shampoo and conditioner back to the store.

As you know, Kimberly Kimble has been linked to celebrities/stars such as Beyonce. I visited the Kimble haircare website today, and I did not see the Brazilian nut and Acai Berry line under the product listing. I may have missed it.

I personally had a client allergic to the acai berry that was in the "Brazilian Blowout Acai" maintenance line so I was not going to chance experimenting with anymore haircare products with acai berry.

Kimberly Kimble also offers hairstyling tools. During a past hair show, I purchased a Denman brush and a hairstyling toolbelt. I love them both.

Relaxer Review: Affirm Normal with Argan Oil

2012-01-22T18:53:00.000-08:00

It had been five weeks since I had another stylist to perform my relaxer touch-up. The afro forming in the back of my head was screaming for help! So I skipped the entire front of my head and only relaxed the back. In the picture included here, I wanted to show my length in the front.

I self-relaxed the back of my head from ear to ear below the occipital bone. Apparently, even the other hairstylist was not able to get it any straighter than what I was able to do on my own. Therefore, I took the opportunity to try out the new Affirm relaxer on the back part of my hair. I know - I have so many brands of relaxers that I have been experimenting with. I keep trimming the back away in search of stabilizing it. I am thinking that all of that Chi Super relaxer (mistake) is cut away by now.

Anyway, the new Affirm relaxer is much, much more tolerable than its old formula. The Argan oil, Pequi Oil, and the Cupuacu butter were added to the Normal strength relaxer. As far as straightness goes, nothing has beat my "True Indulgence" relaxer.

With type 4c hair, I am finding that if the hair is too underprocessed then it leads to dryness and frizz making it more prone to break. If type 4c hair is processed to a point that it holds straight, then it is much easier to gain length. The front of my head is less maintenance because it is straighter. Don't get me wrong, I still like body too! So finding that balance is important.

I will probably stick with a mild True Indulgence for the front half of my head, and Regular strength True Indulgence for the back half in the future.

It is good to still have the Affirm normal strength relaxer as a salon service option. I have a much better idea of its straightening power now that I have used it on myself. Type 3 and 4a curl patterns should find this relaxer to be sufficient.

Sun Protection: Black wins over White

2012-01-22T17:48:00.000-08:00

This was an accidental discovery, but quite profound. Please allow me to describe the scenario leading to the determination that the color black protects better than the color white.

Examine the picture of the pink paper in the picture. The original color of the paper was the deeper pink color. In the left bottom corner of the picture is a set of Pureology Hydrate haircare samples which preserved the original color of the paper within a rectangular block. Then in the right upper corner of the paper, you should be able to see the Applebaum logo slightly burnt into the paper. The "white skyline" is faded within the "apple" outline. This paper was inside the Applebaum Salon bag which had full sun exposure near a window for at least 3 months or more.

As you switch back and forth from the Applebaum logo picture and the pink paper picture, can you see that the "black" part of the "Applebaum logo" preserved the original pink color of the paper? And the "white" skyline of the "Applebaum logo" faded.

After this amazing discovery, I researched sun protection as it related to clothing. I found one article that mentioned some countries wear dark loose clothing which absorbs heat and protects the skin; however, they keep the dark clothing at a distance from the skin in order to keep cool because the dark clothing gets hot. So dark clothes get hot because it absorbs heat, but apparently the heat that it absorbs is protecting you from dangerous sun rays even if you are burning up temperature-wise. Wow!

Now, how does this discovery relate to hair color? Dark hair may protect the scalp better than light color hair? I don't know. This is just a theory.

The proof is definite. The color Black protects better than the color white in regards to the sun rays. This plastic and paper example is proof. It is up to you to decide how to use this information.

Perfecting the Roller Set: The Hump is Key!

2012-01-21T03:52:00.000-08:00

The key to perfecting a roller set so that your styling is easy is getting the "hump" right. The first roller placed in the hair needs to be perfectly placed at the peak of the head to drape over the dropoff of the center of the head. Then place all the other rollers around it.

How do you find the right place for the hump? Attached are three pictures. Notice the flatness of the head in one picture? A book could lay on top of it. In another picture, I show the perpendicular dropoff with my hand. The roller is placed overdirected from its base to allow for maximum lift.

Study the three pictures here and practice your placement of the first roller until you get it right. Every head is different so you have to find the perfect "hump" placement customized for each roller set client.

The roller set method described here is for clients who desire to wear their hair in curls or a "dooby." If you are doing a blow-out for a straight look, then roller placement is different.

DVD Review: 5 Star Chick by Hair Religion

2012-01-21T03:23:00.000-08:00

Okay, I know that your first thoughts are "What the hell?", Who is going to wear that style to work?, What possessed you to buy that urban mohawk DVD?

Well, the reason that I purchased this DVD was because I was amazed at how the hair had so much lift in the top to be a 27 piece, full head quickweave. Although, I do not have any clients that would sport this urban look. The lift and volume of it can be incorporated into other more conservative hairstyles.

I was very pleased with this DVD. The artist on the actual dvd was "Thikk Nikk" although another artist name was on the DVD cover pictured.

Thikk Nikk showed a much faster way to apply the 27 piece quickweave. She put the "quick" into "quickweave." One key was to pre-apply glue to long weft lengths and learn how to hold and cut the hair without having to apply anymore glue until you pick up your next bundle of wefted hair. This method saves a lot of time versus cut, glue, apply, cut, glue, apply. So just glue, cut, apply, cut, apply, cut, apply. So you eliminate picking up the glue so much. This may not be a big deal to some people, but time is money. This DVD helps save you some time.

The volume created in the top was done with thin wefts or split wefts and no gaps!

Anyway, this DVD was well worth my money!

Hair Combs: Missing Teeth?

2012-01-18T07:25:00.000-08:00

Only one of these hair combs is missing teeth. Can you tell which one? The rattail comb on the bottom is missing a tooth or two in the center. The primary cause of a comb to lose teeth is when it is repeatedly being soaked too long in the disinfectant solution.

Now, the high-end carbon comb with the "parting" tooth is intentionally built this way. The parting tooth can be used like the rattail comb to part the hair.

I was inspired to write this article because I remember a client complaining that another hairstylist that she had gone to did not have all the teeth in her comb. Smile. In all honesty, I think that the client saw the "fancy comb" with the parting tooth and assumed that it was missing teeth.

Anyway, hairstylists, if a comb is truly missing teeth and you know that it is snagging the hair, then please trash the comb. Hairstylists with corporate clients should be aware of the quality of their styling tools. Carbon combs are typically ionic and durable. They assist in a better thermal finish.

Discount hairstylists should be aware of their styling tools as well, but the carbon comb with the parting tooth costs at least four times the cost of the cheap rattail comb pictured. If a hairstylist is charging discounted pricing, then they can not afford to spend extra money on combs that may walk off with another hairstylist in the salon.

If a hairstylist is charging top dollar for their services in their area, then they need to spend more on their tools.

DVD Review: Breaking the Mold by Freddie J

2012-01-18T06:59:00.000-08:00

Hair artist Freddie J was featured in Chris Rock's Good Hair movie as one of the contenders for the Bronner Brothers Hair Battle title. She is an industry leader as far as the beauty industry is concerned.

I loved this dvd on how to mold/wrap the hair to achieve a "fresh" style without combing into the typical circular wrap around the head. This "new" wet wrap method delivers a "soft, corporate" mohawk effect. Very nice.

However, the downside to this video is that all three models featured have the exact same headshape. All three models have a high occipital bone and a deep inset in the nape area. Their headshapes are perfect for sporting a short cut.

However, for a client with a flatter head and less nape area, this "fresh" wrap method would not give you the same result. Actually, it would be a waste of time to attempt this mold.

So your client's headshape is a factor in how you conform a haircut as well as how many options you have to wet wrapping it.

Product Review: Wave-O-net

2012-01-15T10:00:00.000-08:00

In a previous article I talked about hair nets. This Wave-O-net is a thicker hair net. It is more visible than the regular hair nets, but it seems to stay on my head better at night. Also, it is much easier to keep up with.

I purchased this net at my local Sallys Beauty Supply.

Protective Styling Rules

2012-01-15T09:26:00.000-08:00

Okay, here are my rules for protective styling:

1) Human hair wigs should not weigh more than 4 oz (four ounces).
2) Synthetic wigs should not weigh more than 4.75 oz (under five ounces).
3) Use a food scale to weigh the wig or protective styling unit that you are planning to wear. If it is too heavy, then thin it out using texturizing shears. Make sure that you thin the wig out evenly. You do need to keep the original style.
4) Always keep your hairline breatheable. The bang area of this half wig is my own actual hair blended with the wig.
5) If you are relying on the combs inside of the wig, then please make sure that you braid at least two rows of your hair to anchor the combs through.
6) Support the wig base as you are styling it. You do not want to stress your own hair.
7) Look for monofilament in the top of the wig to give you a natural scalp look.
8) Learn your headshape. Everyone's head is not ideal for a lace front wig. Please see my separate article on ideal headshape for wigs. Katy Perry and Nikki Minaj have a great headshapes for wigs. Jennifer Hudson does not have an ideal headshape for lacefront wigs. (Just my opinion - Love you anyway Jennifer!)
9) Protective styling makes more sense in the winter months when you need more head coverings anyway.
10) Please moisturize and care for your hair every night and morning. You may need to rebraid your hair every other day to make sure the braid is strong enough to anchor the comb attachment in the wig.
11) Don't sleep in the wig if you can help it.
12) Stick with colors that match your natural haircolor.
13) Keep up your relaxer touch-ups to avoid breakage for those with kinkier hair. You can push your touch-ups out a few extra weeks.
14) After 16 months, you should be able to let the protective styling go!