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<channel>
	<title>Phil Starke Art Talk</title>
	
	<link>http://philstarke.com/blog</link>
	<description>A dialog among artlovers.</description>
	<pubDate>Thu, 02 Jul 2009 13:21:42 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>In Memory of Dan Blanchard</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/9HKpCsBC4Bs/75</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/75#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Jul 2009 13:20:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=75</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[In May of this year, Dan Blanchard, a friend and owner of the Grapevine Gallery in Oklahoma City passed away.  Dan, along with Walter Gray who passed away several years ago ran the Grapevine Gallery and produced a television program that interviewed and demonstrated arts and crafts of all kinds.  I first heard of them in [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>In May of this year</strong>, Dan Blanchard, a friend and owner of the Grapevine Gallery in Oklahoma City passed away.  Dan, along with Walter Gray who passed away several years ago ran the Grapevine Gallery and produced a television program that interviewed and demonstrated arts and crafts of all kinds.  I first heard of them in art school long before I met them.  Our instructor would show tapes of the TV show where artists would demonstrate and discuss their work.  But they were much more than gallery owners and art collectors.  Both Dan and Walter treated all the artists they represented as family and were as interested in the artist and their families as they were their art work.   I learned a lot about developing as an artist even though they never tried to influence what I painted.   They truly enjoyed helping others.</p>
<p>Clay and Julie Speer will continue the gallery in the same vain and are making a seamless transition, but Dan and Walter will be missed as dear friends and family.</p>

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		<item>
		<title>Thumb Box</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/1ImeK5ZfyL0/73</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/73#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 25 Jun 2009 04:38:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Tips,Techniques,Ideas]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=73</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Sometimes when I&#8217;m getting ready to go out and paint the thought of dealing with a large easel, back pack and all the stuff involved in plein air painting wears me out before I get started.  When I&#8217;m traveling I don&#8217;t have the time or space to bring a lot of painting equipment and that&#8217;s [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="null"><img src="http://www.philstarke.com/thumbbox.jpg" alt="Thumb Box" width="216" height="162" /></a>Sometimes when I&#8217;m getting ready to go out and paint the thought of dealing with a large easel, back pack and all the stuff involved in plein air painting wears me out before I get started.  When I&#8217;m traveling I don&#8217;t have the time or space to bring a lot of painting equipment and that&#8217;s why I have an 8 x 10 pochade box that holds everything I need.  There&#8217;s space in the bottom for 5 small paint tubes and about 4 or 5 paint brushes that I chop off to fit in the box, a pallette that slides back and forth and 3 slots that hold 8 x 10 canvas boards.  It has a thumb hole in the bottom that allows me to stand and paint and it&#8217;s small enough to use in the car during bad weather.  So I have no excuse not paint in bad weather, or a trip, or too lazy to drag out a lot of equipment.</p>
<p><a href="null"></a></p>

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		<item>
		<title>Making Canvas Panels</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/2-FrIzb9yLw/71</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/71#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 24 May 2009 21:54:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Tips,Techniques,Ideas]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=71</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When I make my panels I usually use 1/8 in. standard masonite or pressed wood.  You can also use 1/8 in. birch plywood or gator board which is found in art stores.  When buying masonite or pressed wood make sure to buy the standard as opposed to the treated panels which are injected [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>When I make my panels</strong> I usually use 1/8 in. standard masonite or pressed wood.  You can also use 1/8 in. birch plywood or gator board which is found in art stores.  When buying masonite or pressed wood make sure to buy the standard as opposed to the treated panels which are injected with a petroleum substance and are darker in color.  I use Elmers all purpose glue from the hardware store, a 2 in. inexpensive house paint brush and a kitchen rolling pin.</p>
<p>After cutting the boards to size I cut the canvas 1/2 in. bigger so it can be trimmed.  I dampen the bush to make the glue spread easier but don&#8217;t add water to the glue, it weakens the bonding strength.  Spread the glue evenly on the board then press the canvas on the board.  Use the rolling pin to roll out the air bubbles.</p>
<p>I usually prepare a number of panels the same size then stack them and place a larger board over all of them and place a 10 pound dumbbell to weigh them down.   I generally let them dry overnight then with a sharp utility knife I turn them over then trim off the extra canvas.  If the corners come up I apply a small amount of glue with a small brush and press down.</p>
<p>For panels larger than 16 x 20 use 1/4 inch panels and gesso the back to prevent warping.</p>

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		<item>
		<title>The Art of Jean-Baptiste-Camille Carot</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/qv6ym97HTj4/66</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/66#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 May 2009 16:41:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=66</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[&#8220;Corot&#8221;  by Madeleine Hours gives a nice overview of Corot&#8217;s life, how he started his career (he was 26 years old when he asked his father&#8217;s permission), and who influenced him.  The book also goes into some detail about his technique and work habits which is always interesting.
Corot was also very generous, although he took [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div class="wp-caption alignleft" style="width: 187px"><a href="http://www.amazon.com/Masters-Art-Corot-Madeleine-Hours/dp/0810907968/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1241627334&amp;sr=8-2"><img title="Cathedral of Mantes by Corot" src="http://www.philstarke.com/mantescathedral.jpg" alt="Corot painting" width="177" height="302" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Cathedral of Mantes by Corot</p></div>
<p><em><strong>&#8220;Corot&#8221;</strong></em>  by Madeleine Hours gives a nice overview of Corot&#8217;s life, how he started his career (he was 26 years old when he asked his father&#8217;s permission), and who influenced him.  The book also goes into some detail about his technique and work habits which is always interesting.</p>
<div class="mceTemp">Corot was also very generous, although he took his art seriously, he was never devoured by it and gave generously of his time and money.  Considered the &#8220;father of modern landscape&#8221; he greatly influenced Monet, Pissaro, Renoir and Degas by his treatment of atmosphere and light.  He was concerned about realism but was able to look past it and capture the emotion of what he saw.</div>
<div class="mceTemp">Corot wrote in 1856:  &#8220;While I aim at conscientious imitation, I do not for a moment lose sight of the feeling that has taken hold of me.  Looking at a particular object or place, we are touched by a certain grace and should not lose sight of it.  While aiming at truth and accuracy, let us never forget to clothe it with the appearance of what has touched us.&#8221;</p>
<p>I encourage you to learn more about Corot and study his works.  It is a wonderful study.</span></div>

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		<item>
		<title>Color Overhaul</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/Fmc8VAyC7r8/64</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/64#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 01 May 2009 17:52:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=64</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Like anything else, you can lapse into routine when painting, especially when painting in the studio instead of from life.  Our color selection can become routine and predictable.  It helps me to do a series of exercises to loosen my color sense.  Anytime we can paint for the sake of learning instead of trying to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Like anything else, you can lapse into routine when painting, especially when painting in the studio instead of from life.  Our color selection can become routine and predictable.  It helps me to do a series of exercises to loosen my color sense.  Anytime we can paint for the sake of learning instead of trying to create a finished painting we are going to improve our painting skills.</p>
<p>When you change your palette to shake up you color sense it reminds you that painting is not about matching color or tone or using the same color recipe for skies or fields of grass.  It&#8217;s about being able to express what you see through color, using a scheme of colors to express mood or drama in a painting.</p>
<p>My palette is limited so when I change it I&#8217;m really switching primaries.  So instead of my usual cadmium yellow, cadmium red, alizarin and ultramarine blue, I can use yellow ochre, indian red and black, that changes the mood of painting considerably.  Another would be indian yellow, permanent red rose and pthalo blue, a much more vibrant almost sweet palette.  A change in palette forces you to see you subject in terms of temperature atmosphere and mood instead of predictable color schemes.</p>

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		<item>
		<title>Painting Large Outside</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/i17IIR6fLsk/62</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/62#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Apr 2009 16:15:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=62</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Usually painting outside is a small, quick response to light and color before it changes, or gathering color notes for larger pieces in the studio.  Sometimes the challenge of painting large is a good way to change things or venture out of my comfort zone.  Usually 16 x 20 is as large as I will [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Usually painting outside is a small, quick response</strong> to light and color before it changes, or gathering color notes for larger pieces in the studio.  Sometimes the challenge of painting large is a good way to change things or venture out of my comfort zone.  Usually 16 x 20 is as large as I will go and 6 x 8 is a nice size when traveling and stopping along the road for a quick sketch.</p>
<p>But painting larger outside, 20 x 24, or 24 x 30 allows me to push the limits of what I know technically.  It also forces you to just paint the heart of your subject matter because there isn&#8217;t enough time to approach it like a studio painting.  It&#8217;s not always successful but keeps me from looking at everything the same way.</p>
<p>There are two different ways to approach painting large outside, one is to make a note of the time of day and return two or three times until you finish.  The other way is to get the composition and planes blocked in, enough color notes on the canvas, then return to the studio and finish without loosing the sponteniety of painting outside.</p>

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		<title>How To Paint Brighter Colors with Grays</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/1cR556z_AB0/60</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/60#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 06 Apr 2009 00:04:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=60</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[When painting, outside or inside, a bright or sunlit object, we tend to think in terms of stronger or more saturated color, or color straight from the tube to make it stand out more.  In reality we need to think just the opposite.  When we&#8217;re painting an object in a landscape or still life that [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>When painting, outside or inside,</strong> a bright or sunlit object, we tend to think in terms of stronger or more saturated color, or color straight from the tube to make it stand out more.  In reality we need to think just the opposite.  When we&#8217;re painting an object in a landscape or still life that seems stronger in color it&#8217;s always more effective to desaturate or neutralize the colors around the bright object to make it standout.</p>
<p>For example, a mountain being lit by the setting sun will look intense and full of sunlight only if I reduce the saturation of the surrounding sky, trees and foreground with grayer, cooler color.  With a limited palette of red, yellow, blue and white, I can pick one color and add a small amount of the two remaining primaries or just one, add as much white as I need to achieve the right volue, then make sure the surrounding areas use enough of all three primary colors to become neutral or gray.  These gray colors need a predominant color but enough of the other two primaries to really knock them down in intensity.</p>

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		<title>Painting From Memory - An Exercise in Observation</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/SSDSGRBfGHw/56</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/56#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 18 Mar 2009 18:10:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Tips,Techniques,Ideas]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=56</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Painting from memory is a good way to think through and analyze what you just saw.  Like reading a book, then describing it in your own words, memorizing forces me to view the scene differently, looking only for the important big stuff that I can remember and translate into value and temperature.
It&#8217;s easier to remember [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Painting from memory</strong> is a good way to think through and analyze what you just saw.  Like reading a book, then describing it in your own words, memorizing forces me to view the scene differently, looking only for the important big stuff that I can remember and translate into value and temperature.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s easier to remember and compose large, flat patterns of dark and light and the results are different from painting from life and a lot different than painting from a photograph.  I&#8217;m forced to push value and color to make a statement from what I remember.  I can&#8217;t use detail because I won&#8217;t remember any.</p>
<p>Painting from memory works best for me when the lighting is more dramatic.  Sunsets are a good practice.  They&#8217;re too short to paint from life and photographs never do them justice.  The other benefit is that using your memory helps prevent altzhiemer&#8217;s, so use it while you have it.</p>

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		<title>A Time to Re-Group</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/o9F7BHWIjpI/53</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/53#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Mar 2009 20:42:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[General]]></category>

		<category><![CDATA[Tips,Techniques,Ideas]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=53</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[With sales slowing down for many artists everywhere it is a good time to take a breath and slow down a little from the previous years.  It&#8217;s easier now to visit museums and study other works, experimenting with different subject matter or different materials.
There&#8217;s a little more time right now to paint for the sake [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>With sales slowing down for many artists everywhere it is a good time to take a breath and slow down a little from the previous years.  It&#8217;s easier now to visit museums and study other works, experimenting with different subject matter or different materials.</p>
<p>There&#8217;s a little more time right now to paint for the sake of learning (although every painting is practice) and not have to solely keep up with the deadlines of  shows and galleries.  If you&#8217;re one of those whose sales have slowed down, now is the time to make more painting trips, try a different medium and spend more time drawing, because when things begin to pick up again your focus will change back to the rush of business and meeting dealines again.  It&#8217;s always hard to appreciate a slow-down, but when you look back on this you&#8217;ll appreciate the time you took for more development of you skills.</p>

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		<title>Composing for Different Shapes</title>
		<link>http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PhilStarkeArtTalk/~3/YB8HRQvONmk/51</link>
		<comments>http://philstarke.com/blog/archives/51#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 19 Feb 2009 06:23:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>philstarke</dc:creator>
		
		<category><![CDATA[Tips,Techniques,Ideas]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://philstarke.com/blog/?p=51</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I&#8217;ve always done small paintings, both outside and inside and then rework the compositions in the studio to come up with a variety of possibilities.  We had a similar exercise in art school where we picked a subject or story line then using outdoor sketches, drawings and photographs come up with 10 different thumbnail compositions. 
After [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I&#8217;ve always done small paintings, both outside and inside and then rework the compositions in the studio to come up with a variety of possibilities.  We had a similar exercise in art school where we picked a subject or story line then using outdoor sketches, drawings and photographs come up with 10 different thumbnail compositions. </p>
<p>After deciding on one, I complete three different color studies to come up with different color schemes.  The next step is a detailed charcoal value drawing and then the final painting.  This process helps me to see studio painting as a process with a purpose behind each step.   It also develops discipline in planning, forces the meto think more about composition rather than what is presented in a photograph or plein air sketch, and it helps me to think outside the box with color.</p>

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