Candlelight provides warmth color and you should eliminate the other light sources to give you the optimum result in your photo. Other light sources would just contaminate the scene and not naturally from the candlelight. Make a test and blow off the candle to make sure that the scene is completely dark.

The other thing you must assure is that the built-in camera flash or the external flash must be set to be in off position. In some situations probably you need to add small amount of additional light source when you have more experiences with just a candlelight source. You will have a good sense of when you should add additional small amount of other light to penetrate the scene including which angle and how much light intensity would work best.

Candlelight is much weaker than other light sources such as your camera flash or sun light. Therefore you must treat it the way you take a photo in low light situations including using slow shutter speed, open lens or maximizing the use of wide aperture. But with open lens, the light result in your photo would not be much better than you use the small aperture such as f/13 even though the consequence is slower in speed. As general to get a faster speed, the ISO setting should be maximum your camera can support such as 1600 or 3200. But remember the higher the ISO setting the more noise your photo result. Therefore use appropriate setting such as 200 and make sure to use a camera tripod or place the camera in a fix surface. The other thing you should consider is using the timer-on to reduce the shake when you press the shutter button.

The other thing you should also consider is the object movement. That will result a blurry photo due to the use of low speed setting. Make sure that your object is standing still in the period of you press the shutter until the camera sounds “click”. And remember that the candles tend to flicker and you will not be able to eliminate this flicker completely but reduce the flicker as small as possible. Small flicker will give you a good candlelight effect.

Try some experiment which speed gives you the best result, starting with the automatic camera setting would be a good idea to give you a good sense. Explore with different speeds and different metering settings and see how good the result is with different settings. Make some experiments with different number of candles and different objects to capture. Candlelight is not strong enough to illuminate your object. In some cases you would need few candles to light up the objects and placement of the candles should make sense, and probably they can be out of the photo frame. You can place the candles at the same height as the person’s face and you will get a warmer and softer effect.

What about white balance setting? Some digital camera may have preset white balance for candlelight, or you may select different white balance setting o n purpose to have different result. You may also try to use different selections of the picture style. For example Canon offers you downloaded custom picture styles you can use including the Emerald, twilight, nostalgia and more. Try with different picture style settings instead of using the standard picture style.

Mastering various types of light source in illuminating the photo objects and composing the objects for best result is an art – the art of photography.

You may also like:

• Female figure photography –the art of lighting
• Composition techniques in photography art
• Rhythm and Pattern in photography
• Exposure techniques in photography
• Digital camera – lens filter

A commonly simple advice is to have a shoot whenever there is a firework display in the sky around you. A simple advice to always have your camera with you all the time will help in capturing the moments.

The following tips can be used to get started.

Have Appropriate Planning

The most important parts in photographing firework display that most people tend to ignore is about the planning. Get to the location early where the firework will be setup and find a convenience place to get your gears prepared. Find some information if possible what they plan with the fireworks shows. Look around the location, understand the lights and the surroundings to help you decide which camera and lens to use. Remember that planning and appropriate anticipations can be the first and foremost things to do.

Composing and Framing

Another difficult part in photographing firework display is simple question where to aim your camera? Most of you normally aim the camera before the end of the fireworks going off. Spend your time by looking at the sky with your camera ready to aim, do not mostly spend your time in the viewfinder display. This will help you understand what’s happening around you and get ready in anticipating the moment to come by having some shots in the right time.

Focusing

Setting up the camera to auto focus would not be possible in low light or dark sky, therefore make sure that you setup the camera to manual or put it in infinity. So set your focusing in advanced and fix your focal lengths but remember to adjust your focusing if you happen to change your focal lengths.

Shutter Speed

Knowing that you will shoot the dark sky with bright firework doesn’t mean you need to setup the exposure to low speed. Very low shutter speed will open your shutter for long time while the firework display is very bright, this will result an over expose (OE) and smoky photos. See also basic exposure techniques here.

Aperture

You might think that opening the aperture widely would result a good fireworks photos. Unfortunately the fireworks emit bright light. So, it’s a good idea to set the aperture to middle or smaller f stop. But you should also consider your shutter speed selection.

ISO Speed

ISO speed would be great if you select using as low as ISO speed. This will result beautiful firework display.

Capturing the Mood and Surroundings

Remember that fireworks are often relates to celebrations and occasions. Therefore make sure to add a feel in your photos by including the surroundings, foreground and background. Add a feel that tells when, where and what celebrations the fireworks relate to. Assure to include the people if possible, landmark and other perspective to make your photograph more meaningful and the Fireworks Display looking more spectacular.

Take as Many Shots as Possible and Track Results

Keep taking as many shots as possible and do a quick check occasionally. But remember….. don’t check after every shot or you may end up missing the action!!! You might not have enough time. If you are using Digital Camera take advantage of it and keep on taking.

About the Author:

I am a professional photographer for all occasions specialized in weddings, corporate or private events, special occasions and family holiday photography.
I was born in 1963 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia; I am now based in this beautiful island of Langkawi. Visit my photography website to view my photography portfolio: Affendy.Com

See also:

• Body portrait figure photography – useful tips and guidelines
• How to create the misty water effect – tips and guidelines
• Composition of professional sport photography
• Female figure photography how to
• Fine art nature photography

It took me some twenty-seven years, but I have finally started a series of photographic studies of the human body, not just women but men too, that I feel does offer something new. And in the process I have found that creating such studies, even when they aren’t something totally new and different, can also be fulfilling work.

What got me interested to begin with was a series of images I created of city lights using long exposure times…usually in the range of a second, while moving the camera. I was sitting at an outdoor café in Vietnam late at night with several friends and idly shooting long-exposures of the streetlights across the avenue from where we were sitting. The combination of blinking neon bar lights along with the movement of my camera resulted in a kind of “Liquid fireworks” feel. From that night on I have been hooked on shooting city lights in that manner. As I started to develop a body of work I was struck at the lyrical and even sensual nature of some of the images…and how some of them seemed to take on the form of the female body figure.

It was the sensual feel of some of those light images that first led me to decide to shoot the human body. I decided to shoot some nude photographs (of both men and women) and combine them with my long-exposure light photos, using Photoshop, to create a series of images that explore combinations of color, light, and nudes. In some cases I have the models take on poses that work with the lights…and other times I will start with the pose and look for lights that match the pose…or that I can manipulate in Photoshop to better enhance the photograph of the model. In some cases the lights take on the appearance of meridians and chakras…while in other cases the lights lend a sense of motion and or energy. Adding the light images can also add and enhance sensuality, mystery, and glamour to the final image.

I combine the images primarily by using clipping paths to create a tight, accurate selection of the body, then adding it as a new layer into the light image. I can then duplicate various layers re-arrange them, and use layer masks to create the impression of the light wrapping around and sometimes going through the human body. I can use adjustment layers with their built-in masks to add dimensionality to the bodies and or add color, intensity or de-saturation to specific areas of the composites. Hue and Saturation controls also allow my to intensify and/or change the colors of the light streaks. Some images can be very simple with only three or four layers, while others become quite complex. I have had some of these images reach up to seventy layers!

It was while combining those forms that I also began to take the nude body, photographed in my studio, and use Photoshop, again, to put the body into other environments…primarily cloudscapes. These I have done in a photo-realistic manner so that a casual examination would leave anyone believing the nudes had actually been shot in those environments. By shooting the bodies in my studio I can closely control the lighting enhancing the curves and musculature. By stripping the bodies into cloudscapes I can dramatize the sense freedom, expansion and just plain beauty of the photograph.

Now, whenever I travel, I always look forward to creating more of my long-exposure light studies. I have created those images using city lights from Hanoi, to Buenos Aires, to Mumbai to New York. I have long made it a habit to capture interesting cloud forms…and now I also visualize how they might work with the human body. When I get tired of my usual conceptually oriented stock photography projects I give myself a “reward”…permission to play with creating new combinations of the human body juxtaposed and interlaced with the light images from my library of lights and/or clouds. Playing with these images restores my energy and fires up my creativity. It gives me a change of pace and renews my sense of exploration, and instills in me the joy of creating beauty for beauties’ sake!

John M. Lund

About the Author: Stock Photos. Browse our database of Stock Images Stock Photos & Fine Art Prints Concept stock photos, Fine Art Prints, and printed merchandise. Free SEO for photographers. Get traffic to your site! Free SEO for Photographers

See also:

• Tips and guidelines in sunrise photography – Landscape series
• How to create a misty water effect I photography
• Traditional rules of thirds in composition photography
• Body portrait photography

Having good knowledge of photography exposure, that water with misty or smooth effect is easy. It’s going to be great if you got it right the first time, but if you didn’t then this article will show you just how easy to create the misty water effect. There is every chance that if you are just starting out that you won’t have purchased yourself any filters as yet. Filters will make it easier for you to create the misty water effect but they aren’t essential, its just means you’ll have to get up a little earlier in the morning and stay out a little later in the evening just like when you did a natural light photo works.

So the first thing you’re going to need to do is to get up early in the morning to get your misty water shot, its pretty much impossible to do it during full daylight conditions unless you have the new breed of neutral density lens filters which are extremely dark. Even then I wouldn’t recommend shooting during full daylight as you just aren’t getting the best available light. You should be ready to start shooting your subject at least 30 minutes prior to sunrise or 30 minutes after sunset, you will also need to have your camera mounted on a tripod as you’ll need to keep your shutter open for quite a few seconds to create the misty water effect.

Courtesy of Jamie Peterson

Once you are ready to go its probably easiest to set your camera onto aperture priority mode and use the lowest ISO setting that you possibly can. Set your aperture to a setting around F16 if you can. It goes without saying that your next step should be to focus on your chosen subject to make sure your photo will be as sharp as possible.

You should also consider getting a remote shutter release and to use mirror lockup to make sure that your camera doesn’t shake while you are taking the photo. Now for the fun part, take the photo! If your shutter is open long enough you’ll see that you too have created the misty water effect that you have been after. How hard was that?

If you decide that landscape or seascape photography is something that you definitely want to continue doing then you should at some stage consider purchasing a few neutral density filters, preferably the darker the better. The darker a neutral density filter, the longer you can shoot your subjects after the sun has risen or the earlier you can take a photo before the sunsets.

Over the years I have found from experience that the best shutter speeds for creating the misty water effect is anywhere between 1 to 4 seconds. Anything less than this and the water doesn’t have that silky smooth look and anything more than that flattens the water almost entirely and makes it look almost boring. Of course every scene is always different and you may need to hold your shutter open longer or for a shorter period depending on what you are trying to achieve. Now for my last tip, make sure that you focus on your subject before putting on your neutral density filter otherwise its almost impossible to focus.

Jamie Paterson is a landscape and seascape photographer based in Australia. He is always trying to capture those elusive perfect moments that nature shares with us and loves to share his knowledge to enhance others photographic abilities.

See also:

• Photographing birds in flight tips and guidelines
• How to trick bright and dark backgrounds with your camera
• Sunrise photography tricks and tips
• Composition photography the guidelines
• Tips and guidelines in low light photography

In landscape photography, you should know that there are 2 premium hours that are the best for making great shots. All professional photographers agree that the two premium hours occur right after the sun rises and again just before the sun sets. Some people wonder why during summer the two premium hours last longer but do much shorter in winter. During these premium hours we see that the sun provides dramatic lighting without creating deep shadows or intense areas of light. This is especially important when shooting people.

If you have ever taken the model as the subject outside at midday for a photo shoot, probably you will be disappointing since they are trying to avoid squinting from the sun. Or probably you will find that the model is too dark because the sun is behind them causing a silhouette. You’ll also notice that even though they may not be looking into the sun, or facing away from it, you still get very bright portions on your subject while other areas are in shadow. This is why those premium, or golden hours of the day are so important. See also how to trick the light and how to trick the camera exposure.

Pictured courtesy of National Geography

Have a look at the above picture, the photographer successfully captured this beautiful landscape when the sun illuminate from the left side of the hill in the golden hour.

At midday your shadows almost completely disappear due to the highness of the sun, unfortunately the effect is flattening the landscape for photography. Actually this is not interesting images. Sunrise and sunset provide you with the right combination of light and shadow, a great photo-op, and more dramatic color in the sky. See also photography white balance for best tone selection.

Alright so you use the sun at the golden hours of the day. But it doesn’t mean you always need the sun for outdoor photography, great photos can still be created on cloudy or overcast days. Actually the cloud is a natural huge diffuser for the sun light, illuminating the subject with natural light while ridding the scenery of harsh shadows.

In this condition, you may consider of using the fill-flash if you feel the pictures appear flat. Or probably you can also consider shooting in black and white style. Black and white is an excellent choice for overcast days because of the dramatic images you can get while the colors are normally washed out anyway.

What about the rain? Will you be afraid of it too? Basically you can still get some great pictures because the rain adds an interesting element to the scene. But remember that you should protect the camera and other camera equipment. Many photographers actually use a sandwich bag over their camera while they are shooting in order to keep it dry and protected. Why not bring a friend along to hold an umbrella or hold your bags of gear off the wet ground? Keep a positive attitude and use the rain to get stunning effects and produce some unexpected great shots.

By: Don Bordua

Don was born in Massachusetts, grew up in Michigan and worked for General Motors until retiring. He and his wife moved to Texas and later to S. Carolina. They both enjoy their growing family and of course their dogs. Travel has always been enjoyable for both, but especially for Don as he enjoyed photographing all the beautiful places around the world and the wonderful memories he’s recorded. Check out our great deals on Digital Cameras, Scopes and Accessories at BorduasBargains.com/

• How to trick the dark and bright background
• Understanding photography lighting techniques
• Fine nature photography guideline
• Basic concept of composition photography
• Basic concept of photography exposure techniques

An ideal histogram concept is relative, and a good photograph doesn’t mean it has the tone that is spread evenly. A bright intrinsic subject, for example, can produce the image where the histogram curve’s pattern tends to the right side which means very bright. This pattern demonstrates the high key photos.

On the other hand, the intrinsic dark subject will produce the image where the histogram curve’s pattern tends to the left side which means very dark. This demonstrates the low key photographs. See also night photography – the guidelines.

Low key lighting is a style of lighting that attempts to create a contrast tone between light and dark. And the subject is generally surrounded by predominantly dark grey to black tone.

The cat as shown in the figure is a simple example of low key photography. She is surrounded by grey to black background and a bounce light at the right side. Have a look at the histogram pattern that shows the curve pattern is brought to left side.

In a high-key portrait, the subject is generally surrounded by predominately light grey to white. High-key lighting is usually quite homogeneous and free from dark shadows. High key lighting is traditionally created by using three point lightings method that uses key light; fill light and back light as shown in the diagram below.

Key light shines directly upon the object and serves as its principal illuminator; for the strength, color and angle of the key determines the shot’s overall lighting design.

Fill light also shines on the object, but from a side angle relative to the key and is often placed at a lower position than the key light. It balances the key by illuminating shaded surfaces and lessening or eliminating the shadow cast by a person’s nose upon the rest of the face.

Backlight shines on the subject from behind, often (but not necessarily) to one side or the other. It gives the object a rim of light, serving to separate the object from the background and highlighting contours. See also how to trick the light.

The histogram for both types of high key and low key are not ideal since both are either brought together on the right side for high key photography, or the curve is brought to the left side for low key photography.

Histogram pattern here is like a diagnose tool to show how the tone is distributed on the photograph. Histogram doesn’t show you how the photographs should look like – it’s your job as photographer.

By Ki Grinsing

See also:

• How to trick the bright and the dark background
• Understanding photography flash – the guide number
• Photography exposure techniques
• Photography composition techniques

There are many things around us that can be captured by the lens, but let’s talk about the beginning of the day: sunrise. It is a little difficult to capture the perfect sunrise, but you will get it right only by trying. Here are a few tips to take sunrise photos to help you along the way:

Location:

Locations should be scouted for beforehand. You will waste precious time and energy if you decide to scout for a location in the darkness before the sunrise and could end up missing that perfect shot. Look for a great view the earlier day at leisure so you know the place and also know what to look for when you are aiming for that great shot.

Timings:

Courtesy of National Photography

The timings of the sunrise keep changing, so to make sure you are at the right place at the right time, it is important that you find out the timing of the sunrise from a local newspaper. Local television stations will also let you know of the sunrise timings and, most importantly, make sure that you choose a day with a clear forecast. Capturing a sunrise on a rainy, cloudy day might not be what you were looking for.

Third’s Rule

Don’t restrict yourself to the third’s rule while composing photography, that is, don’t make one third of your photo the sky only. When you are into sunrise photography, the sky and its vibrant colors should be dominant. If you can experiment and get a nice silhouetted object in the picture, then it will add some character to the picture. Try and get some landscape into the frame as well. Experiment, as only then will you get the perfect picture.

Lens

When pointing the camera towards the sun, be careful, as the sun’s rays can harm the lens as you are pointing in its exact direction. After taking the photograph, make sure you cover the lens immediately. See also digital SLR camera lenses.

Tripod

Try and use a photo tripod whenever possible, especially if you are trying to capture the sunrise. The tripod gives you stability and adds to the sharpness and clarity of the photograph.

Sunglasses

Sunglasses can mislead you as to how bright how dark it was when you took the picture. So, when you are exposing the photograph be careful that you don’t over or under expose the photograph.

Optical Viewfinder

Whenever you are pointing the camera in the direction of the sun, never use an optical view finder, as it can be dangerous.

After reading these tips, if you are interested in purchasing photos of sunrises to be gifted as personalized baby gifts or to mark someone’s birth, wedding day, anniversary, etc, then you can get a personalized photo with a caption or a quote marking the date of the special occasion. You can buy these photographs from Every Sunrise. For more information about the company and its products, please check out their website at www.everysunrise.com

By: Gary R Simpson

Gary Simpson is a professional photographer and specializes in Nature photography. He has been involved this dual activity which is his hobby as well as profession for 5 years now. He is based in Brisbane and move around Australia to capture beautiful natural habitats as memories as well as to appreciate their existence. www.everysunrise.com

See also:

• Night photography tips and guidelines
• Guidelines in digital photography – general tips
• Digital photography exposure techniques
• Active space in photography
• Rhythm and pattern in digital photography

So when are panning shots used? Well, sports mainly – such as running and cycling, as well as motor sports. But using similar photography panning techniques will make your wildlife and nature shots look much more interesting. Birds are excellent subjects (see how to capture birds in flight technique). Geese or swans, being somewhat slow and lumbering, make surprisingly easy targets when panning. A panning shot makes the viewer appreciate the element of motion. Compare this to a similar static shot taken using a super fast shutter speed and you will see which produces the far more powerful image.

The subject of the shot needs to be moving left to right, or vice versa. A colorful and blurred background helps to lend to the feeling of motion, but the aim is to make sure that your point of interest appears beautifully in focus. Whilst this is true for most sports pictures, in nature a plain background can be used, for example when photographing a humming bird and trying to capture the movement of the wings. A photography panning technique to remember is to take a decent zoom lens along for your shoot. Make sure that you also provide a moving space ahead of motion object.

Photography panning technique is the act of tracking the subject with the camera, whilst taking a single, or multiple shots. Trial and error is the best approach. 15 successful shots from one hundred attempts does not sound like much, but you are doing well if you achieve this. The advantage of this digital age is that you can “bin” anything you don’t need – at the end of the day, if you get one truly memorable image, the viewer won’t know, or even care, how many goes it took you to get it.

There are multiple settings you could select in photography panning technique, but a good one to try is Continuous Focus, or Servo. In this setting, the camera constantly focuses on the object as you pan. Combine this with the Continuous Shooting mode and you will be able to capture multiple shots.

Some of my favourite panning shots have placed the subject slightly off centre, allowing space for them to move into. Understandably, concerns with composition are not always at the forefront of your mind when attempting to capture a speeding object, but a few digital photography tricks can be applied subsequently in Photoshop, if required, to address this. See also how to crop the picture effectively.

Author Resource: Discover how easy it is to apply a few simple digital photography tricks that will produce stunning photographs.

See also:

• How to trick dark and bright background
• Understanding photography lighting techniques
• Understanding flash guide number – general guidelines

For beginner photography, getting the new SLR camera at the first time can be a lot of fun. As beginners, a bit confusing with lots of setting and rich of camera features are common for mostly newbie. Basically there are three areas that you should understand with the DSLR camera: the ISO, aperture or F-stops, and shutter speed. By understanding this digital photography guide, you will shoot like a pro.

Understanding Shutter Speed

Digital photography guide #1 is about shutter speed, the easiest element to understand. As discussed in the previous article about the exposure – the basic principle in exposure technique, shutter speed in one of the elements of exposure triangle. Shutter speed will determine how fast the shutter opens up to allow the light around the object in target to get into the camera sensor.

In digital camera, shutter speed is usually expressed in seconds or fractions of seconds that represents the amount of time the shutter stays open. For example, a shutter speed of 1/4 means that the shutter will stay open for a quarter of a second, and a shutter speed of 1/2000 the shutter will be open for one two thousandth of a second after you press the shutter button. If the source of the light is abundant such as daytime when the sun is shining brightly, you need a faster speed.

If you are taking pictures in a darker area, you will need the shutter to stay open a bit longer. One piece of advice, the longer the shutter is open the greater the chance for a blurry picture is as the result of the camera shake due to handheld. It is therefore, in taking the pictures with longer shutter speed, you need a steady tripod. See also low light photography.

ISO Speed

Digital photography guide #2 is dealing with the ISO Speed. ISO speed identifies how sensitive the camera sensor is to the light. The lower the number of the ISO speed, the camera will be less sensitive to light. On the other hand, with the larger the number of ISO speed, the more sensitive the camera sensor will be to the light. In practical situation when the subjects are in a well lit spot or can use a flash you are going to go with a low number ISO on your camera. On the other hand when your subjects are in dark area, low light, and no flash, then you need higher ISO number.

Unfortunately, with the higher the ISO number, the more noise will look – even though it is not very much noticeable. ISO in digital photography is similar to film speed in film camera. In film camera you would use ISO 100 for daytime or outdoor shootings. For indoor shots, you need ISO 400 or ISO 800 such as night photography activities. The good thing with digital camera is that you can select which ISO speed you need according the lighting conditions.

F-stop or Aperture

Digital photography guide #3 is about the F-stop also known as the aperture. F-stop setting in your digital camera determines how large the opening of the shutter is which determines how much light will get into the camera sensor. The rule is that the higher the F-stop the smaller the shutter opening which means the depth of field area is broader.

For example, in landscape photography where you need the detail of the broad area, typically you use small aperture such as f/13 or f/22. To focus only small area of the subject while the surrounding object is blurry, you need large aperture or commonly called with the open lens term such as f/1.8 or f/2.8. The smaller the aperture is the greater the depth of field. This means that each time you click to a smaller f-stop more area behind your subject will be detail and clear.

By understanding these three things with this digital photography guide, they work hand in hand to create high quality photos. This guideline is a basic step in mastering the photography techniques. The next step you can learn how the lighting will affect your photo results. Read more about how to trick the light here. After that you also need to upgrade your knowledge with composition rules in photography and also understanding digital photo coloring.

Ki Grinsing

See also:

• How the bright and the dark background affect the exposure?
• How to compose the photo according to rules of thirds
• Understanding digital lenses – the terminology

Seeing the world with full color is common for mostly people. Therefore, presenting the photographs in black and white form would be unusual at the first time by mostly photographers. However, once the photographers try digital black and white photography correctly, they will be interested and love it with the results.

The monochrome or digital black and white photography is much different than colorful world photography. It is different in color tone; forms and textures which are merged together without any color influence. Bright and dark becomes the main element in producing superb black and white photographs. Besides; manipulation techniques are also needed to produce a good printing photograph in black and white photography.

By digital camera, producing digital black and white photography is easier and faster in computer. Colorful photography can be easily converted to impressive black and white photographs without loosing their quality by manipulating them using image editing tools in the computer such as Adobe Photoshop.

With Adobe Photoshop, you can convert your digital color images to the superb digital black and white photos. Contrast and tone adjustments can be done accurately, while the dark room process which was complicated in the past – can be done easily in the computer with less technical skills.

Why Black and White

Mostly people loves beautiful landscape photography in color. Some people love digital black and white photography due to many reasons including practical reason, and theoretical reason. But the acceptable and good reason is because many people still love it. Black and white or monochrome photos have specific strength and affinity that helps you easily express your mind. Some photography courses and schools teach digital black and white photography earlier to help the students train their eyes to recognize remarkable photo composition.

An example of black and white photo - desaturated from color image

The photo above was taken in color – a mining office in the middle of the Borneo Jungle – then using the Adobe Photoshop the image is retouched by using the desaturated to convert it to black and white photo.

Naturally the eye explores the lines, shapes and curves through the beautiful color photos. The color photos can be quite beautiful, but with digital black and white makes the photo more dynamic. Many professional photographers agree with the following statements.

• Often times color can be distracted, whereas black and white can convey strong feeling and emotion.
• Images lacking a full spectrum of colors. See also soft photo coloring and contrast photo coloring.
• Photographs shot on dark overcast days result in low contrast images
• Any photo subjects with the lines, contours, shadows and curves will look great in black and white. Get accustomed with the a variety of black and white images such as learning how Ansel Adams produced magnificent black and white images.

Create Black & White Photography with a Photoshop

The easiest way to capture the subject in black and white is by setting your digital camera to Black and White and shoot it. However, when you are familiar with the image editing tools such Adobe Photoshop, you’ll find that creating black and white photos would be even better by shooting the subjects in color first and then de-saturating it. Another added benefit to this method is that you’ll never accidentally take a day’s worth of pictures in black and white because you forgot to reset the camera!

Digital white balance setting would take important role in producing black and white photos. By having good white balance in the photographs, you can control how the primary colors work together to produce grayscale brightness, then a simple de-saturation process may be all you need to do in Photoshop.

Make Sure to Use Your Photo Editing Software’s Color Swatches

Color swatches in Photoshop can be helpful in digital black and white photography, even though there are no colorful tones in black and whites. Color swatches work a lot like the way color lenses work on a SLR camera. For instance, camera filters in the yellow to orange range look great with skin tones while green adds wonderful natural tones to outdoors pictures.

By Ki Grinsing

See also:

• Guidelines in photographing in night – nigh photography
• Digital photography tips – for beginner photography
• How to trick the camera exposure for bright and dark background