Pigeons Loft

Pigeons Playing Ping Pong

2015-07-13T23:30:00.000+05:30

Pigeons Playing Ping Pong

Found this video on YouTube of pigeons playing ping pong watch and enjoy.

American Giant Runt Pigeon

2014-03-26T21:51:00.000+05:30

American Giant Runt

The American Giant Runt is a breed of pigeon developed by selective breeding primarily as a utility and exhibition breed. American Giant Runts, along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons, are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columbia Livia). The breed is known for its large size and suitability for squab production.

The American Giant Runt was developed by crossing the original Runt with several other varieties. The American Giant Runt was the result of USA breeders seeking a wider, more compact bird denoting power and body mass. A related breed is the American Giant Rumbler which is a further development. Both varieties are recognized in the USA.

Lahore (Pigeon) Pics

2014-03-17T23:17:00.001+05:30

Lahore Pigeon

The Lahore is large for a pigeon, approximately 10.5 inches tall and 11.5 long. From shoulder to shoulder, it measures 5.5 inches. Its markings are also unusual: the base color is white, with a secondary color beginning at the juncture of beak and wattle and spreading in an arc over the eyes and across the back and wings. The rump and tail are to be white, though in pigeon shows the majority of attention is paid to the quality of the head, neck, and wing markings. The neck should be heavily feathered and should lead to a full, broad chest. Cheeks should be plump, and the beak should be "broad and stout and rather blunt at the tip." Feet and legs are feathered so that the bird appears to be wearing thick stockings. Lahore are bred in many different colors, including Blue-bar, Checkered, Red, Blue, Brown, and Black.

Lahore Yellow

Lahore stencil

Lahore silver chequer

Lahore blue bar

Lahore mealie

Lahore black

Lahore silver barred

Lahore Red

Lahore Cream Barred

Tippler

2014-03-14T23:26:00.000+05:30

Origin

All races of breeds of domestic pigeon have been evolved from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) that cohabits with man everywhere in the world. The domestic pigeon breeds are believed to have been developed in the Middle East. As to the origin of the Tippler we are at a loss for accurate data.
According to one theory, the Tippler is supposed to have been a cross between the Tumbler and the Cumulet in order to improve their flying qualities and give them a larger range of flight, that is, they rake more, which keeps them longer on the wing. This long-term flying has helped to get rid of the tumbling properties. There is no doubt that it is man-made through selective breeding. They are of Tumbler descent, but beyond this it is merely a matter of speculation. The breed is thought to be originated in Congleton and Macclesfield mining town in England, around the year 1845. The aim of the old time breeders was to perfect a graceful action of the wings, or "Butterfly Action" and it is the ease and grace with which the wings are used that enable the Tippler to attain its marvelous duration of flight. Wendell Levi in his book The Pigeon cites a reference from Hepworth (1893) who interviewed a W. Jolly of Mill Green who in 1893 stated that he had been breeding Tipplers for fifty six years. That would take the origin back to at least 1837. Levi also comments that the breed was developed around Rainow and Macclesfield, and goes on to mention "Macclesfield Tipplers", a strain or type of Tippler (See below), and that they were named after the region they were developed in.

20 years of inbreeding by Gordon Hughes (1953-1973)

Types

There are a number of well-known types of tipplers named after different breeders or the location they originated from. Most of these types have flown over 19 hours many times.

Hughes are, for instance, a type of tippler bred by Gordon Hughes in Derby, with a flying record of 18:07 in 1976, young birds.

Another famous type is the Boden bred by Jack Boden in Handsworth with a flying record of 20:40 in 1975, old birds. Bodens have also flown for over 20 hours many times.

"Sam Billingham", Arthur Newton, Joe Davies, and Jack Holland were also among the top breeders of England.

Other popular types include "Lovatt", "Merredith", Shannon also known as Irish Delight, and Sheffield which usually comes in colors red and yellow.
Wilf Lovatt, 20:00, 1963
Eddy Plester, 19:34, 1990

Training

Tipplers are very intelligent (see Pigeon intelligence) birds and can be trained to fly long hours and drop only when the trainer asks them to.

The following training program was published by W. Matthews in N.T.U. Yearbook 1987: "Thirty-Six Stages for the Flying Tippler Novice"
Eric Anslow, 21:21 in 1994

Competitions and Flying Rules

The Homing pigeon flies to race home, the Roller pigeon flies to roll, but the Tippler just flies and flies. The fanciers of Tipplers can compete against others anywhere in the world without leaving the confines of their own home. A kit of Tipplers consists of three or more pigeons. The tippler team is best when small; controlling and managing a small kit is in fact easier. Each Tippler club has a set of defined flying rules. Generally, the aim is to let the whole kit of Tipplers fly above/around the house for as long as possible. When one of the Tipplers lands, or if the fancier gives the landing sign, that is the end of the competition. Usually, the birds have to be seen every hour during serious competitions by the referee to make sure that they are indeed flying. Most clubs have their flying rules based on the "NTU flying rules".
Gordon Hughes in his loft.

There are two categories of competition: young birds and old birds. A young bird is one hatched during the current year, and in order to qualify for young bird competition, must bear a seamless band issued for that year. Any bird wearing a band issued for any previous year is regarded as an old bird regardless of its actual age. The first old bird race is usually about the middle of April, the rest following at two week intervals. The most important competition is organized on the so called Long Day. The longest day (usually in weekend) of the year.

Source: Wiki

Pigeon Breeds and Types

2014-03-14T23:21:00.000+05:30

Some of the Pigeon Breed names along with there Pics.... Please Enjoy!!!

Bokhara-trumpeter

English_carrier(blue_bar)

English_short_faced_tumbler

Indian_fantail(black_self)

Carneau

Crested_helmet_pigeon

Jacobin_Pigeon

King_pigeons

Dragoon

Barb(Black)

African_owl(black_self)

Cumulet

Fairy_Swallow_(Wing_Pigeon)

Fantail(silver_barred)

Florentine

Genuine Homer

German Beuty Homer

Giant Homer

Lahore(black)

Modena

Nun(black)

Nuremberg Lark

Scandaroon(yellow_magpie-marked)

Tippler

How To Make An Origami Pigeon

2014-03-12T15:21:00.001+05:30

To make this Origami Pigeon, you will need a square piece of paper. This Origami is simple, and it’s easy to learn. It’s made with just a few folds in a short period of time, this makes it great for kids and beginners.

Source: Link

Fancy pigeon

2014-03-12T14:54:00.000+05:30

Fancy pigeons are domesticated varieties of the Rock Pigeon. They are bred by pigeon fanciers for various traits relating to size, shape, color, and behavior, who often exhibit their birds at pigeon shows, fairs and other livestock exhibits.

There are about 800 pigeon breeds; considering all regional varieties all over the world there may be 1100 breeds. The European list of fancy
pigeons alone names about 500 breeds. No other domestic animal has branched out into such a variety of forms and colours.

Charles Darwin is known to have crossbred fancy pigeons, particularly the Ice Pigeon, to study variation within species, this work coming three years before his groundbreaking publication, On the Origin of Species.

Thirty-Six Stages for the Flying Tippler Novice

2014-03-01T22:22:00.000+05:30

by E. W. Matthews

1. When the youngsters are five weeks old, they should be removed from their parents and placed in a loft by themselves.

2. For the first two days or so, food and water will be left for them at will. This ensures that they can feed for themselves.

3. Then they should be fed by hand and the water trough withdrawn and only offered after feeding.

4. It would now be an advantage to introduce the dropper. This should be a White Cross-bred Fantail, either a hen or a youngster. This bird should remain in the loft with the young Tipplers at this stage.

5. The object is to impress on the young Tippler that the Fantail is part of home. When the youngsters are about six weeks old, they should be fed once a day only (I will deal with the food later) and encouraged to chase about after their food. The dropper will soon take the lead for they are usually greedy. Now we can remove the dropper from the youngsters’ loft, and only introduce it during times of feeding.

6. So up to now the mind of the Tippler is that the Fantail is always associated with food. The Fantail is a White bird used as a decoy. Almost any White bird would do.

7. That completes stage one.

8. The youngsters shoud now have the opportunity of seeing the outside surroundings of the loft and to do this the loft should have an open wire netting enclosure, either at the side, or preferably, on the loft top. They should spend some time, say afternoon, outside so that when evening falls they can be called in, introducing the dropper, and fed and watered.

9. Now you will be wondering when should the birds have their liberty. Well, always remember, a good Tippler youngster is stronger on the wing than in the head. Bearing this in mind, I find that the best time to let them out is when the eye colour has changed. This is an indication of better reasoning powers of the bird. They might now be eight weeks old. So, with the dropper out on the loft top, chasing about after grains of food, open the wire enclosure door and allow the young Tipplers to follow the Fantail chasing after the grain. By throwing grain first outside and then inside the pen, the young bird will soon learn its way in and out of the loft. After a short lesson, cail them in and feed and water, carrying on this procedure each evening until the young birds start to take to,flight. It is a good plan to have more droppers available now and they should be kept on the move while the young Tipplers are airborne.

10. Assuming that the Tipplers have been up and down for a few evenings. The next stage is to liberate the kit, without the dropper. When the birds have been flying for 10 or 15 minutes, liberate the dropper. The young Tipplers will now see the dropper, and associating dropper with food and home they will come down. They should be then called in and fed.

11. This procedure is carried out henceforth, each time allowing the kit to fly longer before putting out the dropper. (By longer I do not mean many hours, only two or three).

12. Up to now we have been drilling the young Tippler to do what is required of him – fly until he is summoned to alight. This, of course, is simply mental drill, and the next stage is to equip for physical endurance. This I find the most fascinating part, for it depends on my judgement whether it succeeds or not.

13. Now to refer to analogy. Suppose I had a motor car whose petro) capacity would allow me to drive non-stop for 300 miles. At the commencement of the journey, the car would be at its greatest weight because of the full tank. Another point, the car would have to be in good condition, so as to be trouble-free throughout the journey. So we must have our Tippler with his tanks full and he must be thoroughly fit on the selected day when he is put to test for long-time flying. We can follow the analogy. When first he is liberated his weight may be 10 oz. and at the end of the day will have used up his fuel and would weight six to seven oz. Now suppose I wished to use the same motor car to make a journey of only 10 miles, surely I would not want the tank filled up for this short journey.

14. ~ So I would make it with only a small amount of fuel and, of course, I would be carrying less weight. So if we want our Tippler to fly only for three to four hours we make sure his tank is not full. Now do not take this analogy too much for granted. I do not wish to convey that all we have to do is to fitl up and fatten a Tippler and he will fly all day; far from it, for he has to be trained physically in stages like any other athlete. Now imagine that the Tippler is liberated, say at 4 a.m. and has flown 14 hours. He will have consumed most of his fuel and will be much lighter in weight. This is conspicuous when seen flying, for he will alter his style as the day progresses, for later in the evening he will be seen to be gliding instead of batting his wings like he did when fresh and full tank in the morning.

15. From this we can arrange to train the bird by liberating him in the late afternoon, with only enough in his “tank” to simulate the condition he would have been in if liberated in the morning with a full “tank”.

16. So to get back to our kit of youngsters that have been drilled mentally and are free from vice in so far as making mistakes such as dropping away or alighting before the dropper signal.

17. Suppose we have decided on a target day, say three weeks time. It is our aim to possess for this date at least a kit of three-all to be in the best of condition – for, after all, mistakes are such that at least one of the kit is going to fail first and seeing that we must have a complete kit for competition flying, we cannot allow one to fall out and then see what the others do. So, to commence, it is wise to start with a kit of five, so that on the day the best three can be selected. Having selected five youngsters and to do this at this stage try to get five as near similar as possible. They can be decided on by their blood relationship and their outward appearance. Also try to decide that they bat or fly alike. For as you know, any three men taken at random and made to walk a long distance, should one of them be out of gait or step with the other two, he will surely be the first to tire. The . Tipplers should be placed in a loft to themselves in which there are individual coops. These should be arranged so that the birds cannot see each other (it is not so important with young birds as it is with adults, especially hens). The birds should be fed individually by placing a feeding trough in each coop, (the size of the coop, 14′ x 14″, is ample) and only fed late in the evening. Drink should be withheld for two hours after feeding and then the drink should be given and should contain a purgative. I use Epsom Salt, about one cubic inch capacity to a pint of water.

17. The object of this is to enable me to start them off level, for at first I will treat them all the same. The only way to ensure a balance is to start at the bottom. The next morning the birds will look a little for themselves. But don’t feed them until the evening; just clear out the coops. We use barley, complete with its skin or husk, to feed birds in training. It has the desired effect for it does not provide the birds with much energy and can be analogous to the fact that we don’t fill the birds tank.

18. They keep quite well and satisfied because they can have a reasonable crop-full. This the bird thinks is good to have a full feed and it has a pleasing effect on his bowels. Thus we are assured that his digestive apparatus is not being affected adversely.

19. If you can not obtain barley, then use something similar, something with plenty of roughage, for you will appreciate roughage does no harm to digestion, providing energy is not expected.

20. On the second evening allow the kit out. If they show no desire to fly, do not chase them up for they may be too low in condition and too keen for food. On the other hand, they may take to the air and appear quite brisk. Here is a point of observation, for in the first place, it was desired that the kit should fly rather unwillingly for about one hour and then to put out the droppers and feed. So if they were too frisky, then they are not low enough in condition and if they show no desire to fly then they are, perhaps, too low. Here is your guide for the amount of the next meal. For measurement of feed I shall use the word “crop-full”. To enable you to gauge what amount of crop-full is, take a pocket handkerchief and place an amount of grain in it and then screw it up so that the grain content is bulbous in shape. Compare this amount with a bird that has just been fed and allowed to have its full by feeling, and you should arrive at a bulk measure by either adding or removing grain from the handkerchief until it compares favourably with the feel of the bird’s full crop. Now lace the amount of grain into a suitable measure and this will be your guide for quantity.

21. Now you will appreciate that we can nearly always give a quantity feed, and the quality will decide the amount of the fuel or energy providing feed, so here we have a means of control for the amount of time a Tippler can fly. With the bird trained mentally and the quality of food controlling its staying powers, all that is left is that observation of the owners to be capable of judging when his birds have had enough and when to drop them, for if we fail in this respect, then the bird is more than likely to become a “scrounger”. Sure enough, if left, he will come and alight on his own, and this is because he was allowed to empty his tank. As soon as he has done this, he has broken the habit he has been trained to – that of waiting for the dropper and food.

22. You will have to experiment with the quality of food you can obtain by the result of flying, assuming that you now have the kit fed so that they should fly 3′/2 hours. They have all been fed the same quantity and quality and we find after 2′/2 hours one desires to alight. Then put out the droppers and get them down. Now suppose we were three in the kit and after putting out the dropper, one bird alights immediately, the second follows, and the third takes 10 to 15 minutes to get down, here we have found we have an unbalanced kit. What shall we do? We can either lift the 2′/2 hour bird to three hours or we can starve or lessen the food of the tbird bird that did not readily alight when the droppers were put out.

23. Handte each bird and endeavour to copare each with each and note especially the first bird and the third bird, for we know they are opposites and the second bird was probably in right condition.

24. Having decided to reduce the quantity of the feed for the third and inerease the first, we should then, next evening, have three balanced birds and to get back to my analogy, all three will have the same quality of fuel in their tanks, and it should run out at three hours running.

25. Having three the same and assuming you have mastered and understood each birds necessities by now, we can increase the quality of the feed all round by adding 1/2, wheat to the 1/4, barley to make the crop full. The birds should now be flown alternate evenings and they should fly 4 to 5 hours. Then put out the droppers. This is carried on for l0 days, or so.

26. We have now got the kit nicely teamed up and they are being trained to fly in a condition that they would normally be in if they had been topped up and had flown all day and would be like this is the evening. During this period of training the birds should be introduced to the various seeds and grain that they will receive during latter part of training. Only give u vc rv smal) sample and give on the day they have been out. The seeds wifl be canary, millet and rape (the kinds we give our cage birds); the grain will be maize (small) and maple peas. They can also be given small breadcrumhs. All this is part of the young bird’s education.

27. We have now arrived at 6ve days off the target day. When the birds have been in after their three to four hours fly, they should be fed 1/4, crop mixed seeds, 1/4 crop barley, 1/4 crop maple peas, 1/4 wheat. Because we have made a somewhat sudden change in their diet, we must be sure that the bird will digest it in good time. By this I mean it usua!!y takes 13 to 14 hours for a healthy birds’ crop to empty. Should there be delay in this, there is always a tendency to erop sourness and, of course, we cannot toierate any sickness at this stage. So, to make sure, give the birds a smaller amount of Epsom Salts in their drinking water.

28. Next day rest them, but feed the same and if they have digested the food then no salts are necessary.

29. Next day let them out with 8 hours daylight before them, but do not allow them to fly more than 4′/2 to 5 hours. Reason: Should they be too forward as a result of the better quality, then you will not have an accident and fail to get them at dark, for you have catered for that by allowing 8 hours of daylight. They are dropped after 4′/2 to 5 hours because at this stage we have no desire to empty their “tanks”.

30. When they are down and in their coops, feed on ‘/2 maple,’/2 seeds and water to drink.

31. Next day, ‘/2, maple, ‘/2 wheat, and keep shut up in their coops (water to drink with a little iron tonic helps).

32. Next day, 1/4, maple, 1/4 maize, ‘/2 seeds. Give the maize first, then maples and allow them to eat as much seed as they like. This feed should be about 12 hours before they are to be liberated. Delay the drink at this last feed for about an hour. This ensures a good thirst and the birds will drink plenty. Now close them up in their coops so as to darken the place. This encourages sleep.

33. Next moming early, with at least 16 hours daylight to spare, offer them a drink and then liberate them. Most birds will not take a drink, but don’t worry on that account. They should, if all has been well and they were bred right, fly 12 to 16 hours on this treatment.

34. I hope I have conveyed some idea of the training. It is by no means the only way of feeding, for I find I never feed exactly the same each time, but the principle is the same.

35. You will, no doubt, have to experiment.

36. By the way, always have grit before the birds during training.

(Source: Link to original Post )

A simple and easy pigeon trap

2014-02-27T12:04:00.002+05:30

Found a video on YouTube showing a very simple and easy pigeon trap which can be made at home using just a few household items and hardly 5-10 min of time.

Here's the actual video.

How to build a Loft for your Pigeons...

2014-02-24T21:06:00.000+05:30

Well i am going to show you some images so that it is much better to understand.

I hope this will help new guys to find a way around making a nice loft.

These are not my images, i got them from (American Racing Pigeon Union).

Racing Homer

2009-10-19T12:36:00.006+05:30

A Racing Homer is a breed of pigeon that has been selectively bred for more speed, and enhanced homing instinct for the sport of Pigeon racing. A popular domestic pigeon breed, the Racing Homer is also one of the newest.

Development

Levi in his book The Pigeon refers to racing pigeons first being developed in Belgium and England during the Nineteenth Century. He further says that they came about from the crossbreeding of a number of other breeds, primarily the Smerle, French Cumulet, English Carrier, Dragoon, and the Horseman (now lost). From the high-flying Cumulet, the Homer received its endurance, the ability to fly for hours on end without tiring. From the Carrier, it inherited the ability to find its way home from great distances.

History

Pigeons have been used to carry messages for centuries. However, during the Nineteenth Century, the communication value of the bird—especially for carrying messages during war—became appreciated. Breeders competed to develop ever faster birds. Competitions soon developed, with pigeon racing growing into a popular sport throughout Western Europe and, beginning in the early Twentieth Century, in the United States. Large purses were offered for race winners.
All participants in World War I made use of the Racing Homer's ability to carry messages, with the British alone employing approximately 9,500 birds. The Second World War once more saw the major powers make use of the Homing Pigeon.

Other uses

Apart from the sport of racing against each other, fanciers also exhibit racing pigeons at organized shows and have a judge decide who has the better bird. British Homing World holds a show each year where all profits from the event are donated to both national and local charities, including Help the Aged and the Association for Spina Bifida and Hydrocephalus.
Over the years, the racing pigeon has led to a number of other breeds, such as the American Show Racer, the Giant Homer (bred for utility meat purposes), among others.

In the news

In February 2008 a pigeon fancier paid a South African record 800,000 for a racing pigeon at auction. The auction, where he bought several other birds, was held after the Sun City Million Dollar Pigeon Race. A pigeon was in the headlines in 1998 when its owner gave her to a friend in Algeciras, southern Spain, after retiring from breeding racing pigeons. The bird named Boomerang promptly flew the 1,200 miles back home. The bird was given away again but kept returning home. Recently after ten years away the bird returned once again.

Source : Wikipedia.com

What to Feed Pigeons.....!

2009-10-06T12:20:00.009+05:30

Feed

There are many types of cereals, pulses and seeds that pigeons eat. A balanced diet is very important. I feed my pigeons twice daily. In the morning I give them canary seeds and raggi mixed with small amounts of Lin seed, Sunflower seed, Safflower seed and Ram thil. In the evening I give them a mixture of Wheat, Barley, Red rice, Horse gram, White maize, Bajra, Moong dhal full, Black orid dhal full. I also give American green peas, Brown channa, Maize (sweet corn) and ground nuts in small amounts.

Water

Fresh water is a must and should be provided at all times. I use a plastic covered drinker and I change the water in the drinker thrice daily so that it is clean. I even provide water in each individual cages. For that I use an earthen pot which allows the water to stay cool, because the climate here is very hot.

Grit

Grit is important for a good digestive system in pigeons. Commercial grit is not available in my city, so I give my pigeons oyster shells broken into pieces, crushed egg shells, red brick bits and charcoal bits. Oyster shells contain a good amount of calcium which helps the the pigeons to have strong bones and firm eggs. Red brick bits are very helpful for the digestive system of the pigeon. One should note that when sick pigeons are treated with tetracycline, any form of grit should be avoided because it binds up with the medicine and prevents the use of it.

Minerals

Minerals are necessary in pigeons diet. Oyster shells and Egg shells contain a good amount of minerals, calcium and phosphorus which help the pigeons to be healthy and strong. My pigeons eat grit mixture and so they get the mineral supplement.

Vitamins

I give vitamins to weak birds. Care should be taken to avoid overdose as pigeons get a handful amount of vitamins from the feed they eat. Vitamins A, B, C and E are commonly used.

Pigeon Care

2009-10-06T12:02:00.014+05:30

Care

The most important factor in pigeon keeping is taking good care of them. Sick pigeons should be medicated immediately. I find tetracycline very helpful. Pigeons affected by PMV should be separated from the loft since PMV is highly contagious in pigeons.

Weak pigeons should be kept in separate cages with water and feed. I give vitamins to weak birds. Care should be taken to avoid overdose as pigeons get a handful amount of vitamins from the feed they eat. I check each bird and the chicks every day, Sometimes pigeons don't feed their young ones, In that case I try having foster parents if the chicks are too small. If the chicks are more than 20 days old, I hand feed them using a syringe. I take the grinded mixture of feed and mix it with some warm water and feed them using the syringe.

I dip my birds in Butox once in 6 months so that they are free from ticks, lice and pigeon flies. I even dust them with Notix powder. The pigeon loft should be kept clean and ventilation is a must.

Nesting

In my loft each individual pair has its own cage. Kings, Pouters, Modenas, Swallows and Jacobins need a bigger sized cage. So I keep these breeds in a cage of dimension 3 feet X 4 feet individually. Fantails, Nuns, Helmets and Capuchines are comfortable with small cages of dimension 2 feet X 3 feet. I provide earthen bowls filled with sand for the pigeons to lay eggs, I open the cages every morning and close them in the evening, In the meantime they have plenty of open space to fly around

Jacobin (pigeon)

2009-09-18T20:11:00.002+05:30

The Jacobin is a breed of fancy pigeon developed over many years of selective breeding. Jacobins, along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons, are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia). The breed is known for its feathered hood over its head.

Source: Wiki

Lahore (pigeon)

2009-08-30T14:06:00.003+05:30

The Lahore is a breed of fancy pigeon known for its impressive size and gentle nature. Lahore’s, along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons, are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia).

Origin: For a very long time this bird was bred in the present area of Lahore, Pakistan. It was imported into Germany around 1880 and became popular among pigeon enthusiasts at the beginning of the 1960's. They are usually found in the area of Iran and are some of the most colorful pigeons. These ornamental pigeons from ancient Persia were once bred for their meat, but today they are raised for their beautiful plumage and colorful patterns. Their calm and gentle natures also make them delightfully tame pets.

Appearance: The Lahore is large for a pigeon, approximately 10.5 inches tall and 11.5 long. From shoulder to shoulder, it measures 5.5 inches. Its markings are also unusual: the base color is white, with a secondary color beginning at the juncture of beak and wattle and spreading in an arc over the eyes and across the back and wings. The rump and tail are to be white, though in pigeon shows the majority of attention is paid to the quality of the head, neck, and wing markings.

The neck should be heavily feathered and should lead to a full, broad chest. Cheeks should be plump, and the beak should be "broad and stout and rather blunt at the tip." Feet and legs are feathered so that the bird appears to be wearing thick stockings.

Lahore are bred in many different colors, including Blue-bar, Checkered, Red, Blue, Brown, and Black.

Source: Wiki

Frillback

2009-08-28T11:07:00.002+05:30

The Frillback is a breed of fancy pigeon developed over many years of selective breeding.Frillbacks, along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons, are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia).
The breed is known for the frill or curls on the wing shield feathers. The feather curl should also be present at the ends of the foot feathers or muffs.

Source: Wiki

Saxon Field Pigeon

2009-08-17T21:14:00.003+05:30

The Saxon Field Pigeons are a breed group of fancy pigeon developed over many years of selective breeding. Saxon Field Pigeons, along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons, are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia).
Saxon Field Pigeons are a combination of various varieties which are basically the same type differing only in color and markings. Some varieties include: Saxon Breast Pigeon, Saxon Monk (pictured), Saxon Priest, Saxon Reversewing, Saxon Shield, Saxon Spot and Saxon Whitetail. Saxon Field Pigeons have similar color varieties to the Thuringen Field Pigeon but the Saxons are all Muff (feathered) legged.

Source: Wiki

Danish Suabian

2009-08-17T21:05:00.003+05:30

The Danish Suabian is a breed of fancy pigeon developed over many years of selective breeding. Danish Suabians, along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons, are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia). The breed comes in Silver, Blue, Mealy, Black, Red, Yellow and is either plain-head or peak crested.

Origins: Suabians are thought to have been developed in France and Holland from the laced Starling and imported to Denmark around 1840.

Source: Wiki

Archangel

2009-08-14T15:52:00.003+05:30

The Archangel is a breed of fancy pigeon, notable for the metallic sheen of its feathers. Archangels, along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons, are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia).
It is kept as an ornamental or fancy breed, valued for its unusual appearance. Archangels are small, weighing about 12 oz. They have unfeathered legs and dark orange eyes. They may or may not be crested. The body of the bird is bronze or gold with wings that are either black, white, or blue.

This breed is also known as the Gimpel, which is German for European Bullfinch. The United States is the only country in which all color forms are referred to as "Archangels", in Great Britain only the Black and Copper colored birds are called Archangels, this is because the Black and Copper color type was created in Great Britain.

The Archangel is known as Gimpeltaube in Germany, most color types were refined in Germany. This is a very old breed, the most likely place origin is Dalmatia / Illyria. Breeders maintain consistency within the breed by following the breed standard.

Element Characteristics:

o Head: Lightly curved, longish and narrow with a fairly flat frontal. The crest develops from the back of the shoulders and runs up to the apex, and here developing into a sharp conical point upon the head. The feathers from both sides of the shoulders converge together into a ridge or niche which runs up the back of the neck to form the crest.
o Eyes: Very vivid, the iris is dark orange in color and is surrounded by a very slightly developed cere which is light pink to flesh in coloration.
o Beak: Long thin and straight, the upper beak being slightly curved at the tip. The color the beak is light horn which becomes darker close to the tip.
o Neck: Fairly long and comparatively thin. The throat is well rounded out.
o Breast: Moderately wide and slightly pronounced.
o Back: Sloping down and blending well into the tail.
o Wings: Moderately long, tightly closed and lying nicely upon the tail without crossing. The tips should not extend to the end of the tail.
o Tail: Long and narrow, tightly closed, being slightly longer than the flights. The tail must not be carried too low as to touch the ground.

Source: Wiki

Antwerp Smerle

2009-08-08T12:47:00.002+05:30

The Antwerp Smerle is a breed of fancy pigeon developed over many years of selective breeding. Antwerp Smerles, along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons, are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia).
The Smerle was one of the breeds used in the development of the Racing Homer.

Source: Wiki

American Show Racer

2009-08-04T15:18:00.002+05:30

The American Show Racer pigeon is known as the "Bird of Dignity".

The breed began in the early 1950s with the finest Racing Homers selected for their breed type. Levi mentions Show Pen Racers in his book The Pigeon.

He describes the early development of the breed in the U.S.A. and early breeders of the variety. In 1952, The American Show Pen Racer Club was formed at the National Show held in Des Moines, Iowa.

As years passed, the word “pen” was removed from the club name and it was officially changed to The American Show Racer Association.

As the breed developed, the standard was updated and in the year 2000, a new standard drawing was created and accepted by vote of the membership. Emphasis is placed on "station" (which includes an upright posture) and a powerful head. The bird should be very smooth feathered.

The American Show Racer Association currently has approximately 150 members in 37 states and seven countries. It is an affiliate club of the National Pigeon Association. A link to the club's official website can be found below.

The breed is popular at the shows. In November 2007 at the Pageant of Pigeons that was held in San Bernardino, California. Approximately 150 were entered by 15 exhibitors.

Source: Wiki

American Giant Runt

2009-08-04T15:11:00.003+05:30

Origin: The American Giant Runt was developed by crossing the original Runt with several other varieties. The American Giant Runt was the result of USA breeders seeking a shorter, typier bird. A related breed is the American Giant Rumbler which is a further development. Both varieties are recognized in the USA.

Source: Wiki

Altenburger Trumpeter

2009-08-04T15:00:00.002+05:30

The Altenburger Trumpeter is a breed of fancy pigeon developed over many years of selective breeding. Altenburger Trumpeters along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia). There are several breeds of trumpeter pigeons which are known for their vocal cooing which sounds similar to laughter or trumpeting. The breeds with this ability are collectively known as "voice" pigeons.

Source: Wiki

African Owl

2009-07-29T00:59:00.005+05:30

The African Owl is a breed of fancy pigeon developed over many years of selective breeding. African Owls, along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons, are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia). The breed is known for its small size and short beak.

Source : Wiki

Aachen Lacquer Shield Owl

2009-07-29T00:30:00.004+05:30

The Aachen Lacquer Shield Owl (German: Aachener Lackschildmövchen) is a breed of Fancy pigeon developed over many years of selective breeding. Aachen Lacquer Shield Owls along with other varieties of domesticated pigeons are all descendants from the Rock Pigeon (Columba livia).

Source: Wiki